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Cuisines of Lucknow: The Unsaid Tourism Product

Sabeena Rizvi
Research Scholar, Institute of Tourism Studies, University of Lucknow
Abstract: Food is one of the most important biological human needs and as
such it is an inseparable part of tourism. It also represents one of the basic
services during a touristic trip. The goal of this paper is to determine the role of
food in promoting tourism in Lucknow, the capital city of UTTAR PRADESH,
how it satisfies the tourist and contributing in increasing the flow of tourist.
Keywords: Tourism, Food, Lucknow
Introduction
After the green revolution of India (1960 decades) the country became self-
sufficient in cereals and food grain production. The Indian cuisine consist of a
wide variety of regional and traditional cuisines native to the Indian sub-
continent. The Indian cooking method is also varied from one place to another
region. (Tourism essays, 2019). The Indian cuisines primarily influenced by
locally available spices, herbs, vegetables, fruits and also the diversity of soil
types, climate and culture, ethics groups and socio-economic condition and
geographical location. From cardamom to turmeric, the spices of India have led
to the creation of one of the world’s most flavourful cuisines. As a nation of
twenty–eight states, distinct regional cuisines showcasing seasonal ingredients
and unique cooking techniques can be found from the wheat-bearing north to
the rice-laden south. Each section boasts particular culinary preference shaped
by agricultural, historical and religious influences.
It is said that we are what we eat as Food and taste are resolute by its culture,
anatomy, and genetics. Almost every eatable which are consumed by humans
are associated with some of its tradition so as to explore taste and uniqueness.
Each cuisine has its own story. Cuisine is inextricably linked to the destination
in terms of its cultural heritage, political, social, and economic identity. As
such, cuisine plays an important role in establishing the destination’s overall
tourism image. (Tourism essays, 2019)

Literature review
Each tourist can have different motives for traveling, as well as specific needs
that one wants to satisfy with the tourist activities. According to Maslow’s
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theory of human motivation (1943) which classifies the motives in 5 categories

(physiological, safety, love and belonging, esteem and self-actualization
needs) the need for tourism is placed on the fifth step among the motives
for self-actualization. Many attempts have been made for adopting this theory
during the 1970s’ by researchers from different areas such as sociology,
psychology and anthropology (Gnoth, 1997).
Tourism is fundamentally about the difference of place. Tourism researchers
have often drawn parallels between holiday making and consumption, and
Richard (2002) identifies a convergence between experiential consumption,
work on what tourist eat and why, and Wolf (2002) work on culinary tourist.
Food is an important component in tourism. Food as a significant attraction
while people travel (Bessiere, 1998; Cohen & Avieli,2004). Traditional food
and cuisine could be excellent tourist attraction in rural travel destinations and
also claimed that eating local cuisine might be an integral part of the travel
experience because food serves as both entertainment and a cultural activity
(Bessiere,1998).  Local food is a fundamental component of a destination’s
attributes, adding to the range of attractions and the overall tourist experience
(Symons, 1999).
Consumption is an integral aspect of the tourist experience, with the tourist
consuming not only the sights and sounds, but also the taste of a place. Nearly,
all tourists eat and dine out . Local food is a fundamental component of a
destination’s attributes, adding to the range of attractions and the overall tourist
experience (Symons, 1999). Local food or cuisines that are unique to an area are
one of the distinctive resources that may be used as marketing tools to get more
visitors. The growth of eating out as a form of consumption and the market
forces of globalization have made the food products and cuisines from all over
the world more accessible.  Food has been recognized as an effective
promotional and positioning tool of a destination (Hjalager & Richards, 2002).
Similarly, with increasing interest in local cuisine, more destinations are
focusing on food as their core tourism product. For example, France, Italy, and
Thailand have been known for their cuisine. The importance of the connection
between food and tourism cannot be ignored. Each destination has different
levels of attractiveness that can draw tourists from different countries (Au &
Law, 2002). Authentic and interesting food can attract visitors to a destination.
The destination will use food as the main attraction and will develop marketing
strategies that will focus on the food. It is important for marketers of a culinary
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destination to know the image currently held by its targeted customers and how
to affect their intention to visit through effective marketing strategies. Frochot
(2003) recommended food images can be utilized to exhibit the cultural aspects
of a country. As such, destinations can use food to represent its cultural
experience, status, cultural identity, and communicating. Cuisines that are
highly known for their taste and quality can be developed into tourist products
(Hobsbawn & Ranger, 1983). Jones and Jenkins (2002) recommended that food
is not only a basic need for tourists, but also a cultural element that can
positively present a destination. Given that food can be used to project the
identity and culture of a destination, food consumption can be used in the
development of a destination image (Quan & Wang, 2004). In addition, food
consumption also contributes to the economy of a destination, and provides
tourists with a local experience. Culinary or gastronomical activities of a
destination also are categorized as part of cultural tourism. Cultural tourism may
include experiencing the cultural attractions as well as sampling the local food
(Richards, 1996). Food can convey unique experience and enjoyment to
travellers (Quan and Wang, 2004). Specifically, food may totally enhance
tourists’ experience and can be the most memorable part of the trip.

Cuisine of Lucknow
Lucknow is still considered to be the root of all Indian cuisine as most of
the top chefs of Mughal food which is generally representation of Islamic food
in India are related to Lucknow (Madan, 2001). Broadly, there are three
categories of cooks in Lucknow. The bawarchis cook food in large quantities.
The rakabdars cook in small gourmet quantities. The nanfus makes a variety of
rotis, chapatis, naans, sheermals, kulchas and taftans. Normally, one cook does
not prepare the entire meal. There are specialists for different dishes and also a
variety of helpers like the degshos wash the utensils, the masalchis grind the
masala and the mehris carry the khwan (tray) to be spread on the dastarkhawan.
The Lucknow dastarkhwan would not be complete unless it had the following
dishes: qorma (braised meat in thick gravy), salan (a gravy dish of meat of
vegetables), qeema (minced meat), kababs (pounded meat fried or roasted over
a charcoal fire), bhujia (cooked vegetables), dal, pasinda (fried silvers of very
tender meat, usually kid, in gravy). Rice is cooked with meat in the form of
pulao, chulao (fried rice) or served plain. There would also be a variety of rotis.
Desserts comprise gullati (rice pudding), kheer (milk sweetened and boiled with
whole rice to a thick consistency), sheer brunj, (a rich, sweet rice dish boiled in
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milk), muzaffar (vermicelli fried in ghee and garnished with almonds and
saffron) and mhalwas garnished with malai (Rizwan,2006). Lucknowis prefer
river fish particularly rehu (carp), for fish bones elaborate meals where a couple
of items on the menu would be camouflaged. The kormas, the biryanis and the
khichris, although, still frequent the hotels as well as the homes but their variety
has been reducing day by day.The Lakhnawis had a sweet tooth for kheers and
phirnis, which added a galore to the whole meal. Apart from these two the
zardas, murabbas and sweaiyan also enhanced the taste of the meal. Sawan
(spring) is celebrated with pakwan (crisp snacks), phulkis (besan pakoras in
salan), puri-kababs and birahis (parathas stuffed with mashed dal). Khandoi
(steamed balls of dal in a salan), laute paute (gram flour pancakes, rolled and
sliced and served a salan) and colocais-lead cutlets served with salan add
variety. Raw mangoes cooked in semolina and jaggery or sugar makes a
delicious dessert called guramba. Eid is celebrated with varieties of siwaiyan
(vermicelli)-muzaffar is a favourite in Lucknow, Shab-e-barat is looked to for
its halwas, particularly of semolina and gram flour. There are dishes which
appear and disappear from the Lucknow dastarkhwan with the seasons and
there are those which are a permanent feature, like the qorma, the chapati and
rumali roti. No other city produces sheermals like Lucknow does and the
festive dastarkhwan is not complete without it. Today the sheermal and the
kulcha are commonly seen on the menu. Most kababs are cooked in a mahi tava
(large, round shallow pan), using a kafgir which is flat, long handled ladle for
turning kababs and parathas (Rizwan, 2006).
Food occupies the highest position in most cultures and religions.
Lucknow has been blessed with a rich and varied cultural heritage and it has
been home to a wide variety of foods. The Dastarkhwan has emerged as a living
force of Avadh cuisine. It plays an integral role in the life of people of the
region. The cuisines of Lucknow include veg and non-veg varieties besides a
variety of breads, sweet dishes and curd dishes. The agrarian communities have
traditionally lived in the British company which helped in flourishing of
cuisines of Lucknow. The irrigated and fertile alluvial soil and supply of milk
flourished the abandons production of high quality milk products and mutton
for variety of foods. During AD 1018 Ghazni, from the mountainous and arid
region of Afghanistan was lured by the idea of the abandons of natural food in
an agrarian society. Pathans, Persians and Turkic worriors used to take dried
and salted meat and thus, in the late 17 th century, the diet of sheer meat, high in
animal protein, earned the name of Kabab which derived from the Persian word
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for roasted meat. The Persian and Turkic soldiers from ancient times had
already tasted their first plate of Pulao in Uzbekistan. The measured
combination of a fine balance between the 7 components of onions, meat,
carrots, rice, salt, oil and water that go into cooking a perfect pot of Pulao make
this universally popular rice dish such a comforting food item for the human
body (Husain, 2016). Lucknow specialized in several types of Pulaos with
exotic sounding names viz. Gulzar Pulao, Noor Pulao, Moti Pulao, Chameli
Pulao, Mahi Pulao, Yakhni Pulao, Murraseh Pulao and Navratna Pulao. These
Pulaos were further flourished with speciality of Biryani. Lucknow not only
excelled in their Pulao and Quorma but also produced excellent varieties of
Kababs. Among the range of Kababs are Gulawati Kabab, Pateeli Ke Kabab,
Shaami Kabab, Kakori Kabab, Kabab-e-Veyzavi, Seekh Kabab, Pasanda
Kabab, Nargisi Kabab and Boti Kabab. The basic materials and ingredients
remained more or less same but the variety lay in the shape and form,
chrispness and softness of the Kabab. Tunde Kabab which was originated by a
man who had lost his hand and now it has become one of the most popular
brands of non-veg dishes in northern India. Besides Kabab, Quorams and
Pulao, Lucknow is excelled in Khameeri and Rumali Roti, making of pickles
and chatnis-Murabba, achars and various kinds of sweets.
The cuisines Lucknow reflected the courteous culture of the region to a
large extent. The popular local food was a harmonious blend of meat and
vegetable such as Shabdeg, Aloo, Gosht, Arvi Gosht and Tamatar Gosht. Some
of these dishes are still cooked in ordinary homes. Kabab Paratha, Nihari
Kulcha, Poori Kabab are still popular dishes of Lucknow. Diwali and Dusehra,
popular Hindu festivals bring a variety of sweetmeats while Holi is traditionally
celebrated with Jars of Kanji and Thandai accompanied by Basket Full of
Guijiya. Similarly, during the Eid festival, Muslim celebrates the festival with
variety of sweetmeats such as Saiwain. The Malihabad region is famous for
Dasheri Mango. The Dasheri is part of Malihabad folk lure. It is said that
original Dasheri Tree was on the land of Nawab in Malihabad and Nawab did
not allow making a graft from the tree and those who were interested in the
variety of mangos have to visit Malihabad. Today, in Malihabad, Abdulla
Nursery is the place of worth visit. Kaleemullah Khanhas developed 300
varieties of mangos. The street food in Chowk is still famous. The streets of
Chowk still carry old traditions of varieties of cuisines. Rahim’s classic Nahari
and Kulcha present historical significance. The shop of Mohd. Idris situated
opposite Pata Nala Police Chowki at Firangi Mahal Pul offers delicious Biryani
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while Raja Thandai of Gol Darwaza is one of the old food points in Lucknow.
Lucknow is also famous for vegetarian dishes which were patronaged by
Nawabs. The famous dishes include Tali Arvi Ka Salan, Karele Ka Dulma,
Tamatar Ka Dulma, Dum Bhindi, Gobhi Mussallam, Paneer Pasanda, Nimona,
Laziz Louki, Kathal Ke Kabab, Sultani Daal, Daal Masoor Mussallam. These
dishes are rich in species and ghee. Dum Machchali, Kati Machchali, Kanta
Gali Machchali, Machchali Ka Shami Kabab are some of the famous fish
dishes. Baigan Ka Raita, Burani, Kheere Ka Raita, Falon K Raita, Makhane Ka
Raita are some of the famous curd dishes of Lucknow.
The list does not end here. Apart from the taste and ingredients, Lucknow food
is so popular for its presentation. Great importance is placed on the presentation
of food. The natural food colouring and fragrant smell makes it more appealing
and attractive. Decoration of dastarkhwan is unique in itself. It consist of silver
and gold foils. The silver and gold foil is placed upon the food and designs and
floral patterns are made with pistachio nuts, almonds and shredded coconut
(Harcourt and Hussain, 1975) the chefs do this work with great interest and feel
pride.

The role of Lucknow’s food as a tourism product

The food is a basic motive that satisfies the human need for energy. However
when is on vacation, this need becomes more complex than just energy. One
wish to have food that will tinkle the senses: delicious, attractive and full of
flavours with aromatic smell. Lucknow, fulfils this need of a tourist. it has wide
variety for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians.

If we see through the cultural motives, the food is one of the basic cultural
elements and part of the ethno- cultural identity of a nation. Lucknow is a
reflection of its culture with keeping in mind both Hindus and Muslims taste
and food habits.

Once the tourists are in a destination the food starts to play a more active
role toward satisfying the different needs of the tourists. This is very
important because the main goal of any tourist supply is to satisfy the tourist
needs. In order for the food to contribute to its fullest toward the satisfaction
it has to be carefully selected to fit the specific category of needs; which
means that the food served during the tourism has to be planed depending on
the type of tourist and their needs. For example the gastronomic
tourist
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wants to enjoy the food at its fullest potention, whether the food is part of the
national, traditional or universal cuisine, while the foodie tourist (type of
gastronomic tourist) wants to enjoy a more popular cuisine
Once the tourists are in a destination the food starts to play a more active
role toward satisfying the different needs of the tourists. This is very
important because the main goal of any tourist supply is to satisfy the tourist
needs. In order for the food to contribute to its fullest toward the satisfaction
it has to be carefully selected to fit the specific category of needs; which
means that the food served during the tourism has to be planed depending on
the type of tourist and their needs. For example the gastronomic
tourist wants to enjoy the food at its fullest potention, whether the food is part of
the national, traditional or universal cuisine, while the foodie tourist
(type of gastronomic tourist) wants to enjoy a more popular cuisine
Once the tourists are in a destination the food starts to play a more active
role toward satisfying the different needs of the tourists. This is very
important because the main goal of any tourist supply is to satisfy the tourist
needs. In order for the food to contribute to its fullest toward the satisfaction
it has to be carefully selected to fit the specific category of needs; which
means that the food served during the tourism has to be planed depending on
the type of tourist and their needs. For example the gastronomic
tourist wants to enjoy the food at its fullest potention, whether the food is part of
the national, traditional or universal cuisine, while the foodie tourist (type
of gastronomic tourist) wants to enjoy a more popular cuisine

conclusion

when food is a part of tourism product, the role of food becomes more complex.
It motivates tourist to join sometimes being a secondary motive and
compliments the primary one, while many times it becomes a primary motive.

Lucknow, being a house of so many popular delicacies, fails to attract tourist as

their primary motivation. When food is not the main motive of the trip, the
cuisine of Lucknow can be promoted simply by good marketing and promotion.
Food can offer diversity and unique experience which holds a piece of the local
tradition that will tell the story of the destination.

References:
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29: 819–833.

Bessiere, J. (1998). Local development and heritage: Traditional food and cuisine as tourist attractions
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Cohen, E. , & Avieli, N. (2004). Food in tourism attraction and impediment . Annals of Tourism
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Frochot, I. 2003. “An analysis of regional positioning and its associated food images in French
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Harcort, P.S. & Husain, F.(1975) The Last Phase of An Oriental Culture, London, Husain, Safdar,
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UKEssays. November 2018. The Role Of Food In Tourism Tourism Essay. [online]. Available from:
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