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ULTIMATE GUIDE

TO SEWING
LE ARN HOW T O:
Pick a sewing machine
Choose your first project
Fix common mistakes
and much more... START
S EW I N G
Go behind
the scenes TODAY!
at Tilly HQ

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W E LCO M E

I'm so pleased that Hello!


Love Sewing is partnering I’m Tilly Walnes, the
with Tilly and the Buttons founder of Tilly and
to bring you this the Buttons. We
special guide. create gorgeous,
easy-to-use sewing
Tilly's pattern line, patterns, books and
workshops, books and a online workshops
helpful blog are a wonderful for the new wave of DIY dressmakers.
source of inspiration and
education. We know she'll With jargon-busting instructions
inspire you to love sewing! and photos showing each step, our
Whether you're new to award-winning sewing patterns,
sewing or looking to polish dressmaking workshops and bestselling
your skills, we hope you find books (Love at First Stitch and Stretch!)
this book a great addition to help you to create beautiful clothes that
your collection. you’ll be proud to say you made yourself –
even if you're a new stitcher.

I'm so pleased to be working with Love


Sewing to create this special guide. We
hope that it helps you find the confidence
to start sewing today and create gorgeous
garments you will love to wear. I love
nothing more than taking a flat piece of
Get your stitch fabric, cutting it out and stitching it together
on with our to create a unique, made-to-measure
step-by-step garment that I dreamed up in my head. I
sewing guides know you're going to fall head over heels
for dressmaking in the same way!
and project
suggestions!
Tilly
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W H AT ' S I N S I D E

10 15

38

3 Welcome 24 Pattern picks


6 How to start sewing Find your perfect TATB pattern
All the basics you’ll need to help for any occasion
you get started 29 Titles from Tilly
11 Choosing a sewing machine Be inspired by Tilly’s bestselling
Useful tips to consider when buying or sewing books
renting a machine 33 Pattern review: Zadie dress
15 Time out with Tilly Love Sewing Editor Amy reviews the
Love Sewing talks to Tilly about her super-stylish Zadie dress
journey so far 34 Sewing knit fabric on a
19 Easy sewing projects for beginners regular machine
Build your confidence with these fun Tilly shows you how to optimise your
starter patterns machine’s features when sewing knits

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38 Five common sewing
machine mistakes 34
Machine not behaving as it
should? Find a solution here
42 Five tips for understitching
Keep your facing and lining in place
with this essential stitch
47 Interfacing fabric
Add structure and shape
and understand different types
of interfacing
51 How to sew invisible zips
Tilly’s tips and techniques for 58
sewing a concealed fastening
57 Pattern review: Miette skirt
Love Sewing Deputy Editor
Lorna reviews the easy-to-wear
A-line Miette skirt
58 How to make party ring
pattern weights
Add a splash of colour to
24
your sewing room with these
party ring weights
61 Why you love Tilly
TATB fans share their makes
and love for the brand
66 Where to find Tilly
Keep up to date with all the latest
news and inspiration from TATB

In partnership with

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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H OW TO
STAR T SE W I N G
in six steps
Fancy sewing your own clothes but
don’t know where to start? Follow our
six simple steps to help get you started

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Don’t fret
too much over
which machine to get,
just ensure yours has
the straight
and adjustable
zigzag stitch

1
GET A SEWING MACHINE
Whether you buy, rent or borrow it, you’ll
obviously need to get your hands on a sewing
machine. Shopping for a machine can feel a
bit overwhelming, but all you really need is a
machine that has a straight stitch (for most
stitching) and an adjustable zigzag stitch (for
finishing edges and sewing knits). Full-size
machines (rather than those cute half-size
models) are best for garment sewing. If you
want to try before you buy, go to a specialist
sewing machine shop or a large department
store such as John Lewis if you’re in the UK.
Or keep it easy by buying online. I always say
that the best machine is the one you have, so
don’t sweat the decision too much!

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GATHER A BASIC TOOLKIT
As well as a sewing machine, you’ll
need a few low-cost tools. Don’t worry "I designed our
about getting everything at once – all Dominique skirt to
you’ll need to get started is a pair of
be the perfect project
fabric scissors, pins, a tape measure,
seam ripper (for unpicking temporary for novices wanting
stitches... and mistakes!), a marking to practise straight
tool (such as a chalk pencil) and an iron line sewing."
and ironing board. You can find these
on Amazon, at department stores or
indie haberdasheries.

LEARN TO USE YOUR MACHINE


Before you dive into your first dressmaking
project, you need to get comfortable using
your sewing machine. You’ll need to know
how to set it up, do things such as raising
and lowering the presser foot, learn how
to thread your machine and do some basic
stitching practice on scrap fabric.

CHOOSE YOUR FIRST PROJECT


The big question is what are you going to make first?
Exciting! When choosing a first project, make life easy for
yourself by picking a pattern that is simple to construct and
easy to fit, without fiddly bits.

I designed our Dominique skirt to be the perfect project


for novices wanting to practise straight-line sewing. For
something a little more complex but still easy enough for
beginners, try our bestselling Stevie tunic, the cult favourite
Cleo dungaree dress, simple Margot pyjamas (from my book
Love at First Stitch), an addictive Bettine dress, or 70s-style
Miette skirt. You can buy sewing patterns online, at indie
haberdasheries or department stores.

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See
Love Sewing’s
favourite patterns
BUY SOME FABRIC on page 24!
One of the most fun parts of being
a DIY dressmaker is choosing your
material! But it can definitely be
confusing if you’re just starting
out and don’t know what you’re
looking for. Your pattern will list
suggestions for fabric to look for.
You can stray from the list, but
bear in mind the properties of the
fabric will impact how the final
garment looks, feels and hangs.
If the fabric works with your
pattern, I’d recommend starting
with woven fabric that isn’t too
slippery such as chambray, denim,
cotton canvas, lawn cloth or drill,
unslippy viscose (aka rayon) could
also be used.

Go shopping in person so you GET SEWING!


can get a feel for the fabric or buy Once you’ve got to grips with the
from indie haberdasheries which basics of your sewing machine, chosen
are usually happy to offer you your first project and purchased your
advice by email and even send you fabric and thread you can dive right in!
swatches so you can see and feel If you would like any more help, look
the fabric before buying. out for a sewing class near you or
take one of my online workshops (see
As well as fabric, you’ll also need www.tillyandthebuttonsworkshops.com)
some other bits and bobs such as and I can guide you through learning
thread (get all-purpose polyester to sew and you can pause and rewind
thread in a colour that matches whenever you fancy.
your fabric) and anything else
listed on the pattern. Your chosen And that’s it! I really hope this has made
pattern will tell you exactly what it easier for you if you want to get into
you need, so don’t worry about making your own clothes. It’s such a
buying anything before you have a rewarding hobby – I hope you gain as
project in mind. much enjoyment from it as I have.

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Why not
transform your
Nora pattern
into a cardi?

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CH OOSIN G A
SEWING MAC H I N E

Whether you’re buying your first sewing machine,


upgrading to a mid-range model or looking to
splash some cash on something flash there are
tons of options to choose from.

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BUYING YOUR FIRST
SEWING MACHINE
If you’re just getting started sewing and
aren’t sure how much use you’re going
to get out of a sewing machine, you
probably won’t want to spend too much
money on it. In which case, you might
want to go for a mechanical model
– with knobs as opposed to a digital Computerised sewing
display – as they are usually cheaper
than their computerised counterparts.
machines usually have
a large range of stitch
The first sewing machine I bought was a options, which is great
J3-18 (if you’re in the US, a similar model
is Janome 2212) a great value machine if you want to try out
that served me well for my first three
years of sewing.

Mechanical sewing machines tend to I’ve only tested a fraction of


have a limited number of functions, but the sewing machines that are
that’s fine because you really don’t need
out there in the world, so I
three million different types of stitches
can’t tell you which are ‘the
for most dressmaking projects – as long
as you’ve got straight stitch, zigzag stitch best’. Besides, choosing a
and a buttonholer you’re doing well. sewing machine does come
down to personal preference,
Another consideration is whether so there isn’t really such a
you have a dedicated sewing space thing as ‘best’. But what I
or whether you’re sewing on the can tell you are the models I
kitchen table and need to pack away use most regularly and why
at dinnertime. If you’re just getting into
I love them, and – perhaps
sewing the latter scenario is more likely,
more useful – some things
in which case a lighter machine such
as the J3-18 will be easier to manage. you might want to bear in
Models like this certainly aren’t the mind when choosing which
snazziest, but they’re relatively low cost machine to go for, depending
and great for getting started – you can on whether you’re a novice,
always upgrade later... improver or advanced stitcher.

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UPGRADING TO
A MID-RANGE
SEWING MACHINE
If you’ve become a regular
stitcher and are looking
for more functionality
then you might want to
think about moving onto
a computerised machine.
Computerised sewing
machines usually have
a large range of stitch
options, which is great
if you want to try out
different techniques or get creative Plus, they often feature snazzy extras,
with decorative sewing. such as a one-step buttonholer or an
automatic thread cutter – things you
Perhaps more importantly, they don’t necessarily need but that will make
are generally better at handling your (sewing) life a whole lot easier.
thicker fabric or multiple layers of
fabric than mechanical models as We use the Janome DKS100 in our studio
they have more needle penetration – I’m in love with this machine! It’s got a
power (they behave). good range of stitch settings – including
my favourite, the kitty embroidery stitch.
It feels nice and powerful, but it’s a
sturdy guy and not too heavy to carry,
so still easy to pack away when needed.
I also think it looks really nice – modern
squared-off edges and that turquoise
face! Love, love, love!

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The machine
I use most often
personally is
the Janome
6600P

INVESTING IN A HIGH-END
SEWING MACHINE
If sewing is a big part of your life at some around £1,200, so I wouldn’t suggest it
point you might decide to upgrade to a as a first buy, but it’s a great investment
professional-type model with even more for serious stitchers.
functionality. A high-end machine with
a powerful motor and strong guts will Final thought – you know the saying:
be able to handle all sorts of fabric types “The best camera is the one you have?”
and multiple layers. They will usually I reckon you can apply the same
be at the heavier end of the spectrum, sentiment to sewing machines. Maybe
but if you are a serious stitcher with a you don’t yet have the top-of-the-range
dedicated sewing table that probably model of your dreams, but whichever
won’t pose a problem. machine you have will serve you well in
that it’ll enable you to get on with sewing
The machine I use most often for stuff! Similarly, if you’re looking to buy a
personal use is the Janome 6600P new machine, it’s always worth doing a
(similar to the 6500P available in the bit of research, but too much research
US). It sews fast and the range of can sometimes become overwhelming
stitches is huge – you can choose from and counterproductive, so my advice
seven different types of buttonhole and would be to work out what you really
you can even programme it to write need, make a decision, buy the thing
a sentence! A model like this costs and then get on with your sewing!

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T I ME O UT
WITH
Tilly
Love Sewing chats to Tilly about her
amazing journey so far and what
exciting plans are on the horizon for
Tilly and the Buttons in 2019

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Hi Tilly! How are you today?
I’m great, thank you! Well, actually
I’ve got a cold but I’m being fuelled by
high-strength coffee and scrummy cake.

What are you working on at the minute? You had an incredibly busy 2018 with the
We’re currently working on three new arrival of your son and your brilliant
sewing patterns for 2019. We start second book Stretch! Have you had a
working on them around six months chance to relax yet?
ahead of release, so the patterns are all My little one has just come out of a
at different stages of development. I’m fortnight of horrific teething, during which
editing the instructions on one of them, time we were both getting 20 minutes
finalising the pocket design on another of sleep a night. I was juggling sleep
(yes, it has pockets!) and have just deprivation and the emotional torment of
briefed our pattern cutter to get started a poorly baby with running the business
on the third. and all the admin associated with
moving house. He’s now sleeping until
Of course, my job isn’t just creating 4.30am, which feels like a luxurious lie-in
patterns. Running a business means I’m in comparison, so in a sense, yes, I’m
also working on multiple other things at relaxing… everything is relative, after all!
the same time – at the moment it’s cash
flow forecasting, training up two new How has the reaction to Stretch! been so
team members, meeting with staff about far? Has this surprised you?
trade show logistics and marketing The response to Stretch! has been
plans, plus helping prep orders ahead of amazing. I was initially nervous about
a busy sales period. writing a book on dressmaking with knit

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Tilly and the Buttons has come a long
way since your Sewing Bee time, why
do you think you and your sewing
style have resonated so well in the
sewing community?
I set out to create sewing resources
that are both accessible and inspiring,
without presuming any prior
knowledge or making people feel bad
if they made a mistake. I think that’s
why our patterns, books and online
workshops have a broad appeal –
they make dressmaking fun and
achievable for more people.

What advice can you give to any


sewing bloggers hoping to turn their
side hustle into their main job?
Dream big and start small. Know your
audience and always think from their
point of view. Create things that are
either useful, inspiring or both. Stay
"I set out to create in your own lane, don’t worry about
sewing resources that what everyone else is doing and, most
importantly, do the work! Success
are both accessible doesn’t happen overnight – you have
and inspiring" to put the work in.

How have you found getting a work/


life balance since having your first
fabric as it’s so niche, but the more I child? Has this been easier/harder
worked on it the more I fell in love with than you had imagined?
the book myself and I’m so pleased with It’s definitely been harder than I
the finished product. The projects are so expected. I had to go back to work
quick and easy to make, as well as being pretty quickly and somehow fit
practical and comfortable to wear. It’s had overseeing the business around
such an enthusiastic response from our looking after a baby who’s never been
audience and has been nominated for a great sleeper. I wouldn’t have it any
two industry awards. I just love browsing other way though – I’m so lucky to
Instagram to see what readers have made have the cutest little boy as well as my
with the patterns. dream job.

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Finally, what are your sewing/business
resolutions for 2019?
My sewing resolution is to do some
"It feels so good to sewing! Seriously though, I’m trying to
do something for make time to fit in some sewing once my
yourself at the end of little boy is in bed when all I want to do is
go to bed myself. It feels so good to do
the day, even if it’s just something for yourself at the end of the
sewing a few seams day, even if it’s just sewing a few seams
for 20 minutes" for 20 minutes or cutting something out.
At the moment, I’m working on a lilac
hoodie dress using the Stella pattern from
Are you considering adding some my book Stretch!, it has a polka dot hood
kids' patterns to your collection? lining and is sooo snuggly.
We think a mini Coco would be
very adorable! My business resolution is to hand over
Great minds! Creating a few more things to the team. We’ve recently
childrenswear patterns has been hired an amazing Product Manager who
on my wish list for a while and, I’m training up to write instructions, proof
you’re right, a mini Coco would patterns and co-ordinate production.
be cute. At the moment we’re Hopefully this will free up some time for
focusing on womenswear, but me to work on new ideas… so watch
maybe one day! this space!

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EASY
S E W I N G P RO J E C T S
for beginners
You’ve got to grips with
your sewing machine
and now you’re itching
to make something! Here
are my tips for choosing a
sewing project that’s nice
and easy for beginners…
Bettine dress

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AVOID FIDDLY BITS
Inserting zips or getting to grips
with the buttonhole function on
your sewing machine can be a little
daunting to new stitchers. If you
don’t feel ready to sew zips and
buttonholes just yet, don’t! Choose
a project without fastenings for now,
such as the Bettine dress, which you
can just throw over your head or the
Stevie tunic, which fastens with a tie
or hairband (yes, really!)

You might want to avoid set-in


sleeves too – the kind that you insert
into the armhole.

Coco dress
Stevie tunic

Shop our
patterns at
shop.tillyand
thebuttons.com

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GO FOR SIMPLE
CONSTRUCTION
Ease yourself in gently with a
project that doesn’t require too
much precision sewing. Look for
straight lines and not too many
pieces, and avoid techniques
such as darts, gathering and
pleating until you’ve got a few
Medium-weight woven makes under your (homemade)
belt. Start simple and you can
cottons are perfect to progress to the more complex
get started with projects later on.

Try these cute and easy-peasy


projects from Love at First Stitch!
– Brigitte scarf and Bow belt.

CHECK THE FABRIC SUGGESTIONS


Just as important as simple construction, check that
the project is compatible with fabric that’s easy to sew.
While you’re still getting used to your sewing machine,
the last thing you want to do is sew material such as silk
that will slide all over your machine or a stretchy jersey
that may leave your seams wiggly.

Medium-weight woven cottons are perfect to get


Miette skirt

started with as they lie flat, press well and don’t slip
around. They come in lots of tempting prints (patterned
prints hide dodgy stitching!) and are easy to find in
fabric shops and department stores. Give them a whirl
with the Margot pyjamas pattern, which is included in
my book Love at First Stitch. Or choose a chambray or
linen to make an easy breezy Stevie tunic for summer.

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PICK SOMETHING
THAT’S EASY TO FIT
One of the best things about making
your own clothes is that you can
tailor them to fit you. If you’ve ever
struggled in a shop changing room
this will be a welcome relief!

However, since we’re all different


shapes, getting a fitted bodice or

Dominique skirt
trousers to mould perfectly around
your curves can sometimes take a
bit of work – so save the fun of a
very fitted garment for later. Choose
a simpler shape, such as the A-line
Miette skirt which you can adjust the
fit of with the waist ties. The Cleo
dungaree dress is easy to fit too, as
the style only really needs to fit your
hips – hooray!

MAKE IT AGAIN
AND AGAIN
My final tip for beginner sewing
projects is to choose something
you can see yourself making
more than once. Practising the
techniques and steps in a pattern
a second (or third) time is great
for cementing what you’ve
Cleo pinafore

learnt, and it will make you feel


good about your progress.

Wishing you lots of fun with


your sewing projects!

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10% OFF all orders with code TILLY
Take a look at our new autumn and winter fabrics
We are recommended in Tilly's Stretch Book!

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PAT TERN PI C KS

From speedy makes to show-stopping staples,


Tilly and the Buttons has a range of gorgeous
patterns for every occasion

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Denim days
MILA DUNGAREES
Sew yourself some stylish dungarees
that are perfect for everyday wear.
Slim fitting on the hips and legs
with sidebutton openings and those
all-important pockets on the bib
and booty, the Mila dungarees are a
season-spanning staple that you’ll be
reaching for year after year.
Size: UK 6-20
Printed pattern: £14.50

Great for
beginners

CLEO PINAFORE
AND DUNGAREE DRESS
Buckle up or button up (you choose!)
with this easy-to-make Cleo pinafore
and dress pattern. There are two
versions available with different
fastening options, a mini or knee-length
hem and optional centre front split.
Size: UK 6-20
Printed pattern: £14.50

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Love to lounge
MARIGOLD JUMPSUIT
AND TROUSERS
If you’re on the hunt for comfy lounge
NEW!
pieces that can take you from sofa
to shop the Marigold jumpsuit and
trouser pattern is just the ticket. The
relaxed peg trousers include shaping
pleats and darts and an elasticated
waistband for some extra wiggle room.
If head-to-toe comfort is what you’re
after, add the loose-fitting jumpsuit
bodice with pretty sweetheart neckline
and invisible zip closure.
Size: UK 6-20
Digital pattern: £11.50

NORA TOP
With three garment options, the Nora
pattern offers heaps of versatility. Sew
yourself a cosy oversized sweater or T-shirt
and vary the hem length, sleeves and
neckline to suit. This pattern harmonises
with a range of fabric so you can whip up a
stylish garment for any season.
Size: UK 6-20
Printed pattern: £14.50

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Start at the top
AGNES JERSEY TOP
If you’re new to sewing with jersey and
want to push your skills, the Agnes top
is a great pattern option and can be
sewn together on a regular machine.
There are three flattering options to
choose from, all close fitting with your
choice of long or cropped sleeves, a
plain or ruched shoulder and a scoop or
sweetheart neckline.
Size: UK 6-20
Printed pattern: £14.50

ROSA SHIRT
AND SHIRT DRESS
Whether you're at the office or out
with friends, the Rosa pattern is super
chic and a great introduction to
shirt construction. Both semi-fitted
garments feature flattering princess
seams, a two-piece collar and stand
and three-quarter-length sleeves
with a pretty button fastening. Create
striking contrasts by highlighting the top
stitching and piping in a different colour.
Size: UK 6-20
Printed pattern: £14.50

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Forever frocks
ETTA DRESS
Create a show-stopping dress perfect
for parties and as stylish officewear.
The Etta dress offers a sleek and
feminine fit with darts at the bust, waist
and shoulders to flatter your figure.
You can choose between three-
quarter-length or cropped sleeves and
a high-back or V-back neckline and
add extra detailing with the optional
collar and faux pocket flaps.
Size: UK 6-20
Printed pattern: £14.50

ZADIE DRESS
The Zadie pattern is a casual everyday
dress and a great wardrobe staple. Play
around with fabric to optimise the striking
z-shaped seams which sit atop a floaty,
semi-pleated flared skirt. The garment
can be adapted for any season thanks
to the option of capped, three-quarter
length or raglan sleeves and includes
useful in-seam pockets.
Size: UK 6-20
Digital pattern: £11.50

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T I T L E S F RO M
Tilly
Learn essential tips and techniques with
Tilly's best-selling sewing books!

LOVE AT FIRST STITCH


Tilly’s highly-accredited Love at First Stitch
was heralded as the ‘Best Sewing Book’
by The British Sewing Awards in 2014 and
soon became a Sunday Times bestseller.
Tilly's friendly and refreshing approach
to dressmaking made this title an instant
hit amongst modern makers and helped
to demystify a plethora of sewing jargon
and techniques. Readers can expect
confidence-boosting tutorials, beautiful
step-by-step photography and full-scale,
ready-to-use pattern sheets in eight sizes.

Love at First Stitch: Demystifying


Dressmaking by Tilly Walnes, £25, Quadrille
Publishing Ltd www.hardiegrant.com

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STRETCH!
Learning to sew with knit fabric
couldn’t be easier with Tilly’s second
award-winning title, Stretch! The book
includes complete, full-size patterns
and is aimed at dressmakers who
have grasped the basics and want to
expand their sewing horizons. Tilly’s
tried-and-tested, learn-as-you-make
approach is structured around six
made-to-measure, speedy-to-sew
garments and the friendly instructions
and clear step-by-step photographs
are accompanied by lots of tips and
tricks to make sewing a breeze. The
multiple variations and ideas will help
you customise the garment to suit
your own style.

Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch! Make


Yourself Comfortable Sewing with Knit
Fabrics by Tilly Walnes, £25, Quadrille
Publishing Ltd, www.hardiegrant.com

30 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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The te ie
tunic is a reat
e inner pattern

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Z A D I E D RE S S
RE V I E W

Love Sewing Editor Amy reviews the


super-stylish Zadie dress

I’m a big fan of the Zadie. Look at the


lovely diamond seaming and deep pockets!
The cap sleeve option was my immediate
preference just by the way the seam lines
match up with the bodice, but I can see a
long-sleeved version in my future.
There isn’t a waist seam all around so you
don e re lly snu fi u pered he
side seams a little to help. I bought two
matching weights of ponte for the dress. You
could mix printed and plain scuba fabric for
re e e s well

Given the unusual construction I made sure


to read the instructions and naturally they
were pre y wless he ne k nd is y
best yet. Tilly suggests the best stitch length
and width for a subtle zigzag that still makes
a secure seam. I used teal ribbon to stabilise
my seams too.

The only thing I had to work out for myself


was how to overlock the insides as this is my
pre erred e hod o finishin illy o ers
lots of tips on page 34 for how to sew jersey
garments on a regular sewing machine
so an overlocker is not essential. Overall
I really recommend this dress for being
erin nd o y s se re py s

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Sewing knit fabric
O N A RE G U L A R
S E W I N G MAC H I N E

Sewing with knit fabric doesn’t have


to be more difficult than sewing with
woven material. It’s just different,
because knits behave a little differently
to wovens. Here are my tips for sewing
knits on a regular sewing machine

Take your time


Freya dress from the book Stretch!

when sewing knits,


taking pauses with
the needle down so
you can readjust the
alignment of the raw
edges of the fabric

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CHANGE YOUR NEEDLE
Use a ballpoint or stretch needle in
your sewing machine. Personally, I
find ballpoint needles work well for
me – they have a slightly rounded
tip which passes through the looped
structure of the material without
laddering it. Other people swear by
stretch needles, so see which works
for you and the fabric you’re using. If
you can find ballpoint pins, you may
want to use them too – otherwise
just take care that your pins don’t
leave holes in your lovely fabric.

This is totally optional, but if you TRY A DIFFERENT


want to you could get a twin PRESSER FOOT
ballpoint needle for topstitching A walking foot or dual-feed foot
areas such as the hem, neckline or attachment for your sewing
pocket. Twin needles form two rows machine is useful for helping to
of stitching parallel to each other a prevent one layer of fabric from
few millimetres apart on the right stretching out while sewing. It
side of the fabric and a small zigzag grips the fabric and feeds both
stitch on the other side. Sweet! You’ll layers through the machine at the
need a second spool pin for this – same speed, which one you need
your machine might already have and how you use it will depend on
two or you can attach an extra one your model of sewing machine.
to your bobbin winder spindle.
Also take a look in your manual to
see if there’s a dial for changing
the pressure of the presser
foot. Reducing the presser foot
pressure (now that’s a tongue
twister!) can help stop the fabric
stretching too much while it goes
through the machine.

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MAKE FRIENDS WITH
THE ZIGZAG STITCH TAKE CARE NOT TO
Set your sewing machine to the STRETCH THE FABRIC
zigzag stitch, rather than the straight
WHEN SEWING
stitch, to sew horizontal seams, such
as the neckline, armholes and hem. Keep the fabric in front of the machine
lying flat – if your machine comes with
Before you begin, make sure the an extension table, that can be helpful,
presser foot you’re using has a wide or simply hold the fabric up slightly so
enough slot so the needle doesn’t hit it doesn’t hang off your sewing table.
it when making the zigzags. Test your
zigzag stitching on a double scrap
(ie two layers) of your fabric before FORGET FINISHING!
you begin. The width of the zigzag Knits don’t usually fray, so you don’t
will determine how much the stitch have to finish the seams – hooray! Of
stretches – have a play around with course, if you want to, you can tidy
the length and width settings to see up the raw edges using zigzag stitch
what works on your fabric, plus what (or an overlocker or serger if you have
you think looks nice. I like to use a one). As with woven fabric, pressing
1.5mm width x 2.2mm length zigzag the seams after you’ve sewn them will
for joining seams and 2.5mm x 2.5mm help make them look much neater.
for a neat topstitch.
And there you have it – not so difficult
Sew with the needle starting on the after all! As with so many things in
seam line, just as you would when life – and especially with creative
using straight stitch, back tacking endeavours – there isn’t one 'right'
(reverse stitching) over each end to way of doing this, so much of it is
secure the stitching. down to personal preference. So, if
you don’t get on with any of these
tricks, don’t fret – test things out and
find what works for you.

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Sew yourself a
snuggly Stella
hoodie and relax
in style

Stella hoody dress from the book Stretch!

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LS64 SUPP P37.indd 37 05/02/2019 14:59


F IV E CO M M ON S E W I N G
M AC H I N E M I S TA KE S
and how to fix them
When you first start using a sewing machine, it’s inevitable that you make
mistakes. It’s easy to forget – or just not realise – all the little things that
can cause your machine to throw a tantrum if you’re not careful. The
good news is that these problems are super easy to solve – hooray!
Here’s how…

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THE NEEDLE
UNTHREADS
ITSELF WHEN YOU
START SEWING
You’ve only just threaded the
needle and as soon as you put
your foot down on the pedal the
thread decides to come out of
the needle. Rats! Simple to solve THE FABRIC IS
though – firstly, make sure you JIGGLING AROUND
have a few inches of thread pulled
through the needle and out towards
LIKE CRAZY
Lower your presser foot! The
the back of the machine before
presser foot holds the fabric in
you begin. Secondly – and this
place so you can stitch neatly,
is something that took me a little
not freestyle.
while to discover when I first began
sewing – check your needle is at
the highest position before you
start stitching. How can you tell if
your needle is fully up? Check you
can see the silver hook – or take up
lever – at the top of your machine.
If you can’t, simply turn the hand
wheel towards you until it emerges
(or press the up/down button if your
machine has one).

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YOUR STITCHING IS
CRAZY TIGHT ON THE
TOP SIDE
Again, this could mean you need
to adjust the tension dial, but
before you go doing that, just
check that your spool thread isn’t
caught on the little silver tension
discs on top of the machine. You
would have put the thread here
earlier to wind the bobbin, but
when you thread the machine
you need to take it off otherwise
it creates too much tension in the
spool – thus super-tight stitches.
THE STITCHING
IS REALLY UNEVEN
If the stitching looks loopy on one side
and tight on the other, your first reaction
might be to blame the thread tension
setting on your machine. Sometimes
you’d be right – in which case try
adjusting the tension dial and test sew on
a scrap of fabric until the stitching looks
even on both sides. Yet often it’s not the
tension dial that needs changing – it’s
the way you’ve threaded the bobbin,
which also affects the tension. Take your
bobbin out of the case and double check
you’ve inserted it the right way around
– usually with the thread unwinding
anticlockwise, but do check your
machine’s manual in case it’s different –
and that the thread is pulled through the
grooves in the bobbin case.

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THE THREADS ARE
KNOTTING UP TOGETHER
This is another really common issue – that your
threads knot up either on your fabric or worse they
get jammed in the machine and you have to yank
them out or even unscrew the needle plate to get
them out. Firstly, before you start sewing, check
that both the spool and bobbin threads are sticking
out towards the back of the machine – otherwise
they can get twisted up in the stitching. Secondly,
start sewing a few millimetres in rather than right
on the edge of the fabric (then backtack a bit so
you don’t leave any gaps in the stitching). If there’s
not enough fabric under the needle when you
begin stitching, the spool thread will get tangled
up with the bobbin thread underneath it and cause
knots. Sometimes the needle will push the edge of
the fabric down into the bottom of the machine to
join them in one big awkward mess. Yikes! For the
same reason, when I finish a line of stitching at the
end of a piece of fabric, I always backtack a few
millimetres before the edge (and then stitch off the
end so I don’t leave any holes) – otherwise, if you
stitch off the end and then try to backtack your
threads will get tangled.

So those are some of the most common sewing


machine mistakes and easy ways to solve them. I
hope you found it useful!

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FIVE T I PS F O R
UNDE R ST I T C H I N G
There are various types of stitching that
a DIY dressmaker needs in their toolkit –
topstitching, staystitching, edgestitching…
and let’s not forget understitching!

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O nce you’ve joined a facing or lining to a
garment, you then stitch the facing or lining to
the seam allowances of both the garment itself and
the piece it’s joining.

Why understitch? The aim of the game is to help


keep the facing or lining on the inside of the garment
– stitching it to the seam allowances means it’s less
likely to roll out.

It’s one of those steps that is tempting to skip if


you just want to get on and finish your project. But
making the effort to understitch can help make your
homemade garment look much more professional
and means you won’t have any annoying inside bits
peeping out when you wear it. Here are some tips on
creating a neat finish with your understitching…

1
GRADE THE SEAM ALLOWANCES
Before you start understitching, trim the seam allowances,
cutting those on the facing or lining a bit narrower than the
garment seam allowances. This way, the narrower facing
or lining seam allowances will be sandwiched together
between the other (wider) layers and therefore are less likely
to bunch up as the project is going under the presser foot,
avoiding bulky seams.

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KEEP THE NEEDLE
PARALLEL TO THE
SEAM LINE
Your understitching will look
proper professional if you can
keep it at an even distance
from the seam line. When I’m
after a super-duper finish, I will
make the effort to keep my
understitching neat. There are
a couple of ways you could
approach this.

The first method is to measure


2-3mm (1⁄16-1⁄8”) away from the
needle on your presser foot.
There’s often a ridge that you can AVOID RIDGES
use as a guide. Line up the seam Another key to sensational seams is to,
with this point and keep it there as you’re understitching, keep the fabric
as you sew. pulled away from the seam joining
the facing or lining to the garment. As
Alternatively, if your sewing the project is going under the presser
machine allows you to shift foot use your fingers to keep the fabric
the needle to one side, line up pulled taut away from the seam and
the seam with the centre of lying nice and flat.
your presser foot and move the
needle 2-3mm (1⁄16-1⁄8”) towards In our pattern instructions, I usually
the seam allowances. show a photo of understitching with the
wrong side of the garment facing up
so you can see which bits I’m sewing –
but you may find it easier to sew with
the right side up so you can ensure the
garment fabric is pulled flat away from
the seam.

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SEW INTO CORNERS,
NOT OUT OF THEM

If you’re understitching a round


neckline, you’ll be able to stitch all
the way round until you come full
circle. However, if you’re sewing
a garment and the facing has a
corner, you won’t be able to get
your needle right into the corner
and that’s fine – just get as far as
you can and backtack, then start
again on the other side of the
corner. The understitching will still
do a good job of holding the facing
KNOW WHEN TO
or lining in place. NOT BOTHER
And finally, when don’t you need to
You’ll get further if you sew understitch? If you’re topstitching the
towards and into corners rather facing to the garment anyway, you
than out of them, before the don’t necessarily have to understitch if
presser foot gets in the way. So, the fabric presses well and you
start where your presser foot fits don’t think the facing will pop out.
and, once you’ve finished a line If, however, the fabric doesn’t press
of understitching, if you want to that well after you turn the facing
extend the start of it you can stop to the inside, I would probably
sewing, turn the project around understitch anyway, so it doesn’t
and sew from just before the start balloon out unexpectedly.
of the stitching into the corner,
overlapping the stitches to lock Also, if you’re a beginner and aren’t
them in place. confident sewing at a close and even
distance from the seam, don’t worry
about understitching at all. It can be
a fiddly step if you’re not adept with a
sewing machine.

So please don’t worry about this if


you’re new to sewing. Get the basics
first and build up to understitching
when you feel ready.

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Beautiful Things offers classes in
all crafts but specialises in sewing.
We teach classes
both in our studio,
based in Brentwood,
Essex and online and
are big fans of the
Tilly & The Buttons
patterns.
We run regular
dressmaking sessions
and would love to
help you with your
next make.

Visit our website for more information.


www.clairemackaness.com

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LS64 SUPP P46.indd 46 05/02/2019 12:37


INTERFAC I N G
FABRI C

Interfacing is used in sewing to add extra


structure or firmness to certain areas of a
garment such as cuffs, collars and waistbands

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LS64 SUPP P47.indd 47 05/02/2019 16:01


woven

non-woven

W hich interfacing you


choose will depend
on what fabric you’re using. I
generally keep a stash of light-
weight, medium-weight and
heavy-weight interfacing so I’ve
always got something to match
what I’m making. (If you’re using
sheer fabric, which interfacing
would show through, you can
attach a layer of fine fabric such
as organza instead.)

Iron-on interfacing is easy to use.


It has a sticky side – with little
blobs or lines of glue on it, which
feel rough to the touch – and a
non-sticky side – which you can
draw on.

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HERE’S HOW TO
APPLY INTERFACING
Cut the interfacing to the shape of the
pieces it needs to be applied to, using
your pattern as a template. I like to
draw around my pattern in biro onto the
non-sticky side, then cut the pieces out.
If the shape I need is simply a rectangle,
it can be easier and more accurate to
measure the shape on the pattern and
draw it straight onto the interfacing.

Place your fabric piece on an ironing


board, wrong side facing up. Position
the interfacing on top of it, glue side
facing down. Place a pressing cloth on
top – I use a piece of muslin but you
could use another piece of fabric or
even a tea towel. Gently press down
onto the fabric with a hot dry iron for a ALTERNATIVE METHODS
few seconds to allow the sticky side to If you need to interface small fiddly
melt and adhere to the fabric. pieces like a shaped collar on slippery
fabric that is liable to move around
Make sure the sticky side of the when you cut it, you could press some
interfacing doesn’t come into contact interfacing onto the fabric before
with your iron or it’ll leave a horrible cutting out. This method does waste a
burnt glue mark (yes, I’ve done this – bit of interfacing, but it saves time and
doh!). Also, be careful not to move the hassle. Your call.
iron around or the interfacing might get
squished up into a sticky mess – just If you don’t want to stiffen your
keep the iron static. seams – perhaps if the garment you’re
making involves lots of layers or the
fabric is thin and you don’t want the
seams bulking up – you may want
Ensure the interfacing to cut your interfacing so that it fits
the stitching lines of the fabric pieces
is a similar weight to rather than the cutting lines. I must
the fabric admit I rarely have the patience to do
this unless absolutely necessary!

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50 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS64 SUPP P50.indd 50 05/02/2019 12:39


HOW T O S E W
invisible zips
I’m going to show you how to insert an invisible zip
into the Francoise dress. You can use this tutorial for
other types of garment too!

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LS64 SUPP P51.indd 51 05/02/2019 16:02


You will need:
• Invisible (or concealed)
zip (56cm/22” for the
Francoise dress)
• Invisible zip foot (check the
one you e fi s your odel
of sewing machine)
• Regular zip foot or adjustable
zip foot (adjustable is my
preference – again, check it With the dress lying right side up,
fi s your sewin hine temporarily fold the left seam
• Sewing machine and tools allowance flat. Pin the left zip tape to
(pins, scissors, etc) the left seam allowance of the dress,
right sides together. Align the zip teeth
with the pressed seam line and the
top stop with the neckline, folding
the facing (and collar if your dress has
one) out of the way.

Try your dress on and adjust the


back-opening seams if you need to.
If you want your seams to be hidden
behind the zip, trim them down to
the same width as the zip tape –
about 1cm (3⁄8”). If your fabric is fairly
lightweight, apply a strip of interfacing
to each seam allowance. Finish the
back-opening seam allowances using Attach an invisible zip foot to your
a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. Press sewing machine. The invisible zip foot
them under 15mm (5⁄8”), wrong sides has two little grooves at the bottom –
together. Open the invisible zip and slot the zip teeth into the left groove.
press the back of the curled teeth flat Stitch all the way down one tape, as
with a warm, dry iron, being careful far as you can go before the zip pull
not to touch the iron to the zip teeth gets in the way, backtacking at each
themselves. Uncurling and pressing the end of the stitching. Trim your threads
zip will help when it comes to stitching carefully so they don’t get jammed in
close to (but not over) the teeth. the zip.

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Pin the right zip
tape to the right
seam allowance
of the dress in the
same way. Stitch.

Now we need to sew the rest of the


back-opening seam. Close the zip.
Keeping the ends of the zip tapes out of
the way, pin together the back-opening
seams below the zip. Change the foot
on your sewing machine to a regular zip
foot or an adjustable zip foot. Stitch the
seam, starting about 2cm (3⁄4”) above the
bottom of the zip, and backtack at each
end. You won’t be able to stitch directly
on top of the original zip stitching line
because the teeth will be in the way, but
get as close as you can to avoid creating
a bubble at the bottom of the zip and
sew diagonally up to the seam line as
smoothly as you can. An adjustable zip
foot really helps here as you can slide
the edge of the foot super close to the
needle. I love my adjustable zip foot!

It should look
something like
this (left).

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LS64 SUPP P51.indd 53 05/02/2019 16:02


To finish, close the zip and
lightly press the zip seam on the
right side of the dress. Be careful
here as you don’t want to melt
the zip – you don’t even need to
I also like to stitch the flappy bottom touch the iron to the fabric, you
ends of the zip tapes to the seam can just hover it over the seam
allowances (not through the outside and emit a little steam to neaten
of the dress) using an adjustable (or the seam.
regular) zip foot. Press the seam
allowances open. And that’s it! You’ve sewn a
lovely invisible zip.

Open the zip and fold the zip tapes and


back-opening seam allowances away
from the dress. Trim the top of the zip
tapes, then fold the facings over the back
of the dress along the neckline seam,
right sides together. Pin the back edges
of the facing to the zip tapes and seam
allowances. (If your dress has a collar, this
Find more
should be out of the way.) Using a regular
tutorials at
or adjustable zip foot, stitch the back ends
of the facing down close to the zip teeth www.tillyand
(again, an adjustable zip foot will help you thebuttons.com
stitch closer to the zip teeth). Turn the
facing right side out, using a pin to gently
ease the corners into a point. Press the
facing to the inside of the dress, rolling
the seam line slightly to the inside.

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LS64 SUPP P51.indd 54 05/02/2019 16:02


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Quote SEWTILLY for a 10% discount
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Delightful fabric shop in Fleet, Hampshire stocking a


wide range of cottons along with other dressmaking
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gifts. We also run workshops for sewing (including
some of the TATB patterns),
giant knitting, crochet and crafts amongst others.

www.sew-busy.co.uk
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 55

LS64 SUPP P55.indd 55 02/09/2019 12:54


Find out how
to sew a plaited belt
at www.tillyand
thebuttons.com

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LS64 SUPP P56.indd 56 05/02/2019 15:00


MIETTE SKIRT
RE V I E W

Love Sewing’s Deputy Editor


Lorna shares her version of the
Tilly and the Buttons Miette skirt

As a beginner dressmaker, it can sometimes


feel a little daunting deciphering all the sewing
terminology that arises when reading a pattern.
Like many Tilly fans, I really appreciated the
detailed instructions and it was so helpful to
have the jargon-busting section to refer to
whenever I needed it. I chose the Miette skirt
PDF pattern as I really love the nod to the 70s
A-line style and I knew it was a pattern that I
would re-use again and again.

I chose medium-weight polycotton denim


from Minerva Crafts (£10.99 per metre) which
was great to work with, though I would love to
make a version in a lighter-weight fabric as I
think this complements the wrap-around style
and gives the skirt greater swish-ability!

I added pockets to my version, which I love,


nd eel onfiden enou h ne i e o finish
the outline of the pockets with a contrasting
ops i h his p ern o ers lo s o ers ili y
nd he h n e o ry ou di eren finishin
stitches or use a twin needle for instance.

I am delighted with how my skirt turned


out and can’t wait to try another of Tilly’s
patterns – I think a Breton-striped Agnes top
will go perfectly!

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H OW T O M A K E
PA R T Y RI N G
pattern weights
Want to make sewing pattern
weights that look just like your
favourite childhood biscuits?
Of course you do!

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Pattern weights are a great alternative to
pins for holding sewing pattern pieces
onto fabric when you’re tracing them
off or cutting them out with a rotary
cutter. They’re also useful for tracing
patterns onto paper for alteration or
preservation purposes.

Until recently, I’ve just used whatever


I had to hand as makeshift pattern
weights – scissors, pin holders, a plate
of Jaffa Cakes (ALWAYS to hand), but
a lot of people swear by washers so,
a quick trip to B&Q and a nail polish
makeover later, these babies were born!

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A FEW NOTES ON ...and then made some Party Ring ones
(it’s a tough job, etc). They’re inspired
MAKING THESE:
by my friend Lauren who can’t get
1. Nail polish on metal takes waaaay enough of Party Rings.
longer to dry than you might think.
Don’t stack these on top of each
other for a few days, particularly if
you’ve painted the underside. I did
and they stuck together (boo).
2. A pin is helpful for making the
marbled icing effect on the Party Ring
ones. (Mmm... marbled icing...)
3. Erm... that’s it!

I started by making rainbow-pattern If you make your own, we’d love to


weights, because I love rainbows... see! What design would you go for?

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W H Y YO U LOV E
Tilly and The Buttons
Here are some of the reasons why
sewists love Tilly's gorgeous patterns

Jen wearing her Rosa dress


“Huge TATB fan right here! I just love
her modern styling and how I can
completely and utterly rely on Tilly
patterns for being solidly reliable and
trustworthy. Go Tilly!”
See more of Jen’s makes at
www.gingerthreadgirl.co.uk

Adelle wearing her Joni dress


“Tilly and the Buttons patterns give
me a current style which is just so
comfortable to wear. Together they
make up a capsule wardrobe perfect
for any type of occasion. Often I find
myself wearing head-to-toe Tilly
without even trying!”
See more of Adelle’s makes on Instagram
button_and_pip

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Kathy wearing her Tilly Agnes top
and Tilly Cleo dress
“Tilly and the Buttons are,
without a doubt, my most used
patterns. The sizing and fit is
always spot on, and her designs
suit my style perfectly. Love
everything about them!”
See more of Kathy’s makes at
www.sewdainty.co.uk

Jane wearing her


Arielle skirt
“I love the
attention to
detail in Tilly
and the Buttons
patterns. The
instructions are
clear and concise, with beautiful,
explanatory photos to guide you
through the process. With Tilly’s
help the finish of your garment,
both inside and out, will always
look professional.”
See more of Jane’s makes at
www.handmadejane.co.uk

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Abi wearing her Coco dress with the
Francois waist detail
When I first started dressmaking a
couple of years ago, it was the Tilly
and the Buttons Love at First Stitch
book that filled me with inspiration.
It was colourful and creative with
stylish and simple sewing patterns;
I couldn’t wait to sew them all! She
makes every sewing process less
intimidating with great instructions
and clear images. I’ve built up quite
the collection of Tilly’s patterns
since then and my go-to is the
Coco pattern – I must have sewn it
about 10 times!
See more of Abi’s makes on Instagram
craftypinup

Lynne
wearing her
Agnes top
“The Agnes
top is my
favourite, I’ve
lost count
of how
many I’ve made! The two
different sleeves give it different
looks depending on the fabric,
and the instructions are brilliant.”
See more of Lynne’s makes at
www.ozzyblackbeard.com

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Suzanna wearing
her Seren dress
“I love how Tilly
has opened
up the world
of sewing
to everyone
by creating
beautiful,
modern patterns
with easy-to-follow and wonderfully
styled instructions that anyone
can understand.”
See more of Suzanna’s makes at
www.threadquarters.co.uk

Kate wearing her


Martha dress
“I love how Tilly’s
patterns are
both distinctive
and versatile.
I’ve made
several Marthas
and each of
them looks different but all have a
modern nod to 1960s style.”
See more of Kate’s makes on Instagram
KateEvaDesigns

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• Haberdashery
• Workshops

The Stables,
The Vine,
High Street,
Stockbridge,
Hampshire,
SO20 6HF

hello@bobbinsewingschool.com
www.bobbinsewingschool.co.uk
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W H E RE T O F I N D
Tilly
Keep up-to-date with all the latest
developments from Tilly and the Buttons

Website: shop.tillyandthebuttons.com
Blog: www.tillyandthebuttons.com
Online workshops: www.tillyandthebuttonsworkshops.com
Instagram: tillybuttons
Facebook: tillyandthebuttons
Pinterest: Tilly and the Buttons

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