AR217

Activity 2
DATE: June 30, 2021

NAME: Manuel Renato C. Tuballa

SUBJECT AND CLASS: AR217 (11137)

Picture OF PORTION OF THE How was it built. Explain in detail. What were the materials used for
HOUSE the construction of this component
of the house?

WALL • Creating a draft: Piles and wall wires  Excavation tools (digging,
are used to create a draft for the shovel etc.)
foundation of the wall. Digging is done  Basic forms, if needed
depending on the size of the  Piles
foundation and the outside conditions.  Plumb bob
The foundation that supports the wall  Concrete blocks or cinder
is critical to the structure's overall blocks
strength. Concrete is poured into the  Water balance
excavated area at the start of
 Protective gloves
construction. The upper half of the
 Concrete mixture
foundation is usually covered with
wood. It is vital to ensure that the base  Wheelbarrow or cement
is totally dry before beginning the wall mixer
construction.  Masonry anchor
 Mortar
 Trowel
• Block arrangement: After the
foundation has completely cemented,  Masonry jointer
an outline is made for the block layout.  Masonry saw
A 2.5 cm mortar is put to the margins  Masonry chisel
of this outline. The blocks are then  Masonry hammer
began to be placed in the mortar, and
each block is carefully tapped to
guarantee a good fit.

• Adding reinforcements: Horizontal

and vertical metal reinforcements are
added to the wall.

FLOOR 1. Make sure the earth in the plinth is Base Coat

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Activity 2

adequately compacted. When

compacting, take care to ensure that
the floor has the right slope.
 Brick blast  40 mm size
 Fine sand 
2. Spread a homogeneous layer of  Cement
clean coarse sand 10 to 15 cm thick
over the compacted soil infill.
Floor Toping/Top Layer
3. Over the sand layer, a base
concrete of grade M10 (1 cement: 3  Cement
sand: 6 coarse aggregate) is poured at  Coarse aggregate/Bazri 
the desired slope and tamped well. 12.5 mm nominal size
The average thickness of base  Fine aggregate i.e.
concrete is 100 mm. Coarse sand
 Strips
4. Smooth out the top of the base
concrete and allow it to harden.
Thoroughly clean the surface upon
hardening.

5. Use glass or other strips to divide

the top of the floor into rectangular or
square panels. The panels should
have a total area of less than 2 square
meters.

6. Moisten the top of the base

concrete and apply cement slurry
when the paneling is finished.

7. Apply a layer of cement concrete of

grade M15 (1 cement: 2 sand: 4
coarse aggregate) to the desired
thickness over the cement slurry (say
40 mm).

8. Smooth the top surface with

wooden floats after thoroughly
tamping it to compact it. Before putting
it to use, the surface is cured for
around 10 days.
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CABINET/SHELF
Trim the stiles to the final cabinet door height.
Trim rails to the final width of the cabinet door,
less the width of the stiles (x2)
Cut the center panel to the final height of the
cabinet door minus the rails width (x2) plus the
depth of the groove (x2), as well as the width
of the cabinet door minus the stiles width (x2)
plus the depth of the groove (x2), to ensure a
tight fit and no rattling.
Two stiles, two rails, and a center
panel make up each door. The
exact dimensions of each piece
are determined by the ultimate
size of the cabinet door and the
method used to construct it.

WINDOW
 Dry Fit Window  Made of a polyester base
Before applying the silicone to the the with a scratch-resistant
window stop, dry fit the window to coating. Some films
make sure there are no fitment issues. involve multiple polyester
 Install Window layers to achieve their
There will be pre-drilled holes in the results.
window frame for the screws.  Screen
 Add Insulation  Insulated glass
There may be gaps around the  Casing
original window frame the wall studs,  Hinge
and this is the perfect opportunity to  Sash
insulate those areas better. For larger  Header
gaps, cut pieces of roll insulation and
pack them into the gaps.
 Add Extension Jambs and Trim
Molding
Pick a style of molding that fits your
home’s decor and create a frame
around the window. Measure the
length of each piece and use a miter
saw to cut the trim to the appropriate
length. Make your cuts on 45-degree
angles so the trim will fit together with
a nice picture-frame look.
 Paint and Add Finishing Touches
The final step is to finish off the
window framing by filling any nail
holes with stainable/paintable wood
putty and painting or staining the trim
moulding around the window for a
finished look.
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SPOT DETAIL. (You should draw manually and then post the picture here. You may refer to details on
the internet)

1. WALL
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2. FLOOR
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3. CABINET/SHELF
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4. WINDOW