Information Sheet 2.

1-1
Types of protective devices and its applications

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Determine what are protective devices
2. Identify the different types of protective devices

Protection devices for electrical circuits accomplish two main

functions namely consistency as well as protection.
In this module, you will learn the different types of protection devices
and its functions.
Protection devices used to protect circuits from extreme voltages or
currents. This article discusses what is a protection device, and types of
protection devices used in electrical and electronic circuits.

The circuit protection device is an electrical device used for preventing

an unnecessary amount of current otherwise a short circuit. To ensure the
highest security, there are many protection devices available in the market
which offers you a total range of protection devices for circuits such as a
fuse, circuit breakers, RCCB, gas discharge tubes, thyristors, and more.
The different types of circuit protection devices examples include the
following.
 Fuse
 Circuit Breaker
 PolySwitch
 RCCB
 Metal Oxide Varistor
 Inrush Current Limiter
 Gas Discharge Tube
 Spark Gap
 Lightning Arrester

Fuse
In electrical circuits, a fuse is an electrical device used to protect the
circuit from overcurrent. It consists of a metal strip that liquefies when the
flow of current through it is high. Fuses are essential electrical devices, and
there are different types of fuses available in the market today based on
specific voltage and current ratings, application, response time, and
breaking capacity.
The characteristics of fuses like time and current are selected to give
sufficient protection without unnecessary disruption. Please refer to the link
to know more about: Different Types of Fuses and Its Applications

Circuit Breaker
A circuit breaker is one kind of electrical switch used to guard an
electrical circuit against short circuit otherwise an overload which will cause
by excess current supply. The basic function of a circuit breaker is to stop
the flow of current once a fault has occurred. Not like a fuse, a circuit
breaker can be operated either automatically or manually to restart regular
operation.

Circuit breakers are available in different sizes from small devices to

large switch gears which are used to protect low current circuits as well as
high voltage circuits. Please refer the link to know more about: Types of
Circuit Breaker and Its Importance

Poly Switch or Resettable Fuse

A resettable fuse is a passive electronic component used for protecting

electronic circuits from over-current mistakes. This device is also called as a
poly switch or multi fuse or poly fuse. The working of these fuses is same as
PTC thermistors in particular situations, however, work on mechanical
transforms instead of charge-carrier-effects within semiconductors.
 Resettable Fuses are used in several applications like power supplies
in computers, nuclear or aerospace applications where substitution is not
easy.

RCCB or RCD
The RCD-residual current device (or) RCCB- residual current circuit
breaker is a safety device which notices a problem in your home power
supply then turns OFF in 10-15 milliseconds to stop electric shock. A
residual current device does not give safety against short circuit or overload
in the circuit, so we cannot change a fuse instead of RCD.

RCDs are frequently incorporated with some type of circuit breaker

like an MCB (miniature circuit breaker) or a fuse, which guards against
overload current in the circuit. The residual current device also cannot
notice a human being due to by mistake touching both conductors at a time.

These devices are testable as well as resettable apparatus. A test

button securely forms a tiny leakage condition; along with a reset button
again connects the conductors after an error state has been cleared.

Inrush Current Limiter

 This is one type of electrical a component used to stop inrush current
for avoiding regular damage to apparatus and evade tripping circuit
breakers and blowing fuses. The best examples of inrush current limiter
device are Fixed resistors as well as NTC thermistors.

They present a high resistance firstly, which stops huge currents from
flowing by turn-on. Because the flow of current will continues, NTC
thermistors heat-up, permitting high flow of current throughout normal
operation. These thermistors are generally much superior to measurement
kind thermistors, which are intentionally planned for power applications.

Lightning Protection
The lightning protection includes MOV (metal oxide varistor) and gas
discharge tube.
Metal Oxide Varistor
A varistor or VDR (voltage dependent resistor) is an electronic
component and the resistance of this is changeable and depends on the
applied voltage. The term varistor has been taken from the variable resistor.
When the voltage of this component increases then the resistance decreases.
In the same way, when an extreme voltage increases then the resistance will
decrease significantly.

This performance creates them appropriate to guard electrical circuits

throughout voltage flows. Origins of a flow can comprise electrostatic
discharges as well as lightning strikes. The most frequent type of voltage-
dependent resistor is the MOV (metal oxide varistor). Please refer the link to
know more about varistor/voltage-dependent resistor circuit with working

Gas Discharge Tube

A gas discharge tube or gas-filled tube is a collection of electrodes in a
gas inside a temperature resistant envelope and insulating. These tubes use
phenomena allied to electric discharge within gases, also work through
ionizing the gas by an applied voltage enough to reason electrical conduction
through the fundamental phenomena of the Townsend expulsion.
 An expulsion lamp is an electrical device which uses a gas-filled tube
such as metal halide lamps, fluorescent lamps, neon lights, and sodium-
vapor lamps. Specific gas-filled tubes namely thyratrons, ignitrons, and
krytrons are employed as switching devices in various electrical devices.

The required voltage to begin and maintain discharge is reliant on the

force, geometry of the tube, and composition of the fill gas. Even though the
cover is normally glass, power tubes frequently employ ceramics, as well as
military tubes frequently employ glass wrinkled metal.

Crowbar vs. Clamping

The terms Crowbar vs. Clamping is regularly used to explain how
overvoltage protection devices work in a temporary event. A crowbar
protection device decreases the voltage under the system’s operating voltage.
As the impermanent is complete, the crowbar device retunes and lets the
circuit to function usually. Throughout a temporary occurrence, a clamping
device grasps the voltage just higher than the operating voltage of the
system.

ESD Protection
This device protects an electrical circuit from an ESD (Electrostatic
discharge), in order to avoid a breakdown of a device. Murata has a wide
array of ESD protector devices comprising particular devices very small
devices, for high-speed communication, & included noise filters. ESD
Protection devices can also be utilized to change Zener diodes (TVS),
varistors, as well as suppressors.
Surge Protection Device
The term SPD stands for Surge Protection Device is one type of
component used in an electrical fitting security system. The SPD device is
allied in parallel in the power supply circuit, which can be used on all stages
of the power supply system. The surge protection device is the most
frequently used and also well-organized kind of over-voltage protective
devices.

This is all about protection device and its types. The protection of the
circuit can be done by using different protection devices in an electrical
circuit purposely in order to stop extreme amounts of current. To make sure
extreme safety, this article gives an overview of circuit protection techniques,
namely circuit breakers, ESD protection electronic fuses, gas discharge
tubes, thyristors, and many more.

https://www.elprocus.com/what-is-a-protection-device-different-types-of-
protection-devices/
 Self-Check 2.1-1
A. Identification: Identify the different pictures shown below. Write your
answer on a separate sheet of paper.

1. 4.

2. 5.

3.
 Answer Key 2.1.-1

1. Fuse
2. Surge Protection Devices
3. Gas Discharge Tube
4. ESD Protection
5. RCCB
 JOB SHEET 2.1-1
Title: Installing Circuit Breaker

Performance Objective: Given with the instrument, tools, and

materials, you should be able to Install Circuit
Breaker within 2 hours.

Supplies/Materials : Electrical tape and Flat cord #20 awg

Tools/ Equipment : Multi-tester , Philip Screw driver , Flat

Screw driver , Side cutting pliers , Long nose pliers , Gloves and
Goggles, Circuit Breaker.

Steps/Procedure:
1. Determining Where to Install the Circuit Breaker Wear

2. Turn off the power supply to the electrical panel. Locate the
Service Disconnect or Main circuit breaker in the panel and set
it to the "Off" position. This circuit breaker is likely to have the
largest amp value and will be located either at the top or bottom
 of the panel.
 If you don’t see a circuit breaker labeled “Service
Disconnect” or “Main” in the panel, it is likely in another
panel in the building or in the meter socket enclosure (a
separate, usually gray box that houses the utilities meter
for many houses and mobile homes and that is connected
to various circuit breakers throughout one section of a
building). Look for other panel(s) as needed until you find
this main circuit breaker.
 Turn off all computers in your home before switching off
the power, as they may be damaged by suddenly losing
power.

3. Inspect the circuit breaker arrangement for unused locations.

Look for a blank area on the electrical panel that could
accommodate a circuit breaker, paying particular attention to
unused spaces at the top and bottom of the cover. Some
manufacturers of electrical panels have removable knockouts or
plates at these locations, but the panel itself lacks provisions to
mount a circuit breaker.[2]
 If the unused location has a knockout plate over it, you’ll
have to eventually remove it before completing the
installation process. For now, you simply need to identify
a space where you can install the circuit breaker.
4. Remove the electrical panel cover. Use a screwdriver to remove
3 of the screws supporting the cover. Then, use 1 arm to hold
the panel cover in place as you unscrew the last screw. Finally,
pull the cover away from the panel.
 Be sure to hold the panel cover tightly in place as you
remove the screws; if the cover slips and falls, it could
damage the breaker handles.
 If you’re unable to hold the panel cover in place with 1
hand, ask a friend to help you.

5. Find an unused space next to or between existing circuit

breakers. The new circuit breaker you install will need to be
placed next to a circuit breaker already in place. Carefully
compare this location to the cover that was removed earlier to
make sure it aligns with an unused location on the cover.
 It’s very important that the cover has provisions for exposing
the new circuit breaker by removal of the knockout plate. If
there’s no plate to be removed, the circuit breaker will have
to be located in a different place on the panel.
6. Placing the Circuit Breaker in the Panel
Make sure you have the correct circuit breaker. The panel label
will list all the approved types of circuit breakers that can be
installed in the panel. Deviating from the list is a code violation
and voids any UL, FM or other listing services’ approval. For
maximum safety, use only those circuit breakers that are
allowed to be installed in the panel.[6]
 Typically, the only breakers allowed to be installed are from
the same manufacturer of the panel - even if other brand
breakers are labeled as "fits (brand name here) panels".
 The breaker should be of an ampacity that does not exceed
the circuit conductor's rating. This is typically 15 amps for
#14 copper, 20 amps for #12 copper and 30 amps for #10
copper conductors or wires. Consult the code book to
determine sizes for other circuits.
 The terminal size should be large enough for the wire to fit.
The need to remove strands of wire to fit the terminal is an
indication of an error somewhere along the line.

7. Set the circuit breaker handle to the OFF position. The circuit
breaker has 3 possible positions: ON and OFF and a mid
position when TRIPPED. Push the handle towards the OFF
position before installing the breaker to ensure your own safety
during the installation process.
8. Align the circuit breaker with the bars in the panel. Tilt the
circuit breaker so that the hold-on clip on the bottom of the
breaker is attached to the plastic “grab” bar in the panel. Once
attached, pivot the circuit breaker on the mechanical contact
and roll towards the center of the panel - making sure the bus
bar of the panel is still aligned with the slot or opening on the
circuit breaker case.
9. You may have to apply pressure to the breaker for it to become
attached to the plastic bar.

10. Firmly press on the circuit breaker to seat it onto the bus
bar. Use your thumb to press firmly but gently on the circuit
breaker until it snaps into place on the bus bar. You don’t have
to screw the breaker into place; it’s held in place by spring clips
and the panel cover.[9]
 While it will require firm even pressure to be seated, it
should not have to be forced.

11. Connect the circuit wiring to the electrical panel. After

 making sure the circuit breaker is still in the OFF position,
connect the white neutral wire and the black hot wire to the
breaker. Loosen the screw over the breaker’s connection
terminal, insert the wires into the appropriate terminal
locations, then tighten the screw until snug.[10]
 Your circuit breaker should have a label that indicates
where to insert the neutral and hot wires.
 If you're installing a double pole breaker, you'll connect it
to both the black and red hot wires. Just make sure
you're using a switch that's designed to be used as a
double breaker.
 Note that there’s no need to bend the end of the wire into
a hook; it just needs to be straightly inserted into the
connection terminal.

12. Finishing and Testing the Installation.

Remove knockout plates from your cover as needed. Bring the
cover up to the panel to compare the new circuit breaker
location to the cover openings. Use a pair of pliers to remove
any knockout plates on the cover location where the circuit
breaker will be located.
 To remove the knockout plate, simply grip with the pliers
and move the metal back and forth until it comes away.

13. Clean all foreign objects out of the panel and reinstall the
cover. Remove any tools, wire scraps, or other foreign objects that
could cause a short circuit from the interior of the panel. Then,
place the cover on the panel to check that the circuit breaker has
 fully been seated at both contact points and fits through the cover.
Finally, rescrew the cover onto the panel.

14. Turn on the main breaker and test your new circuit breaker.
Standing to the side of the panel, restore power to the panel by
setting the Service Disconnect or Main to "On" and then set the
new circuit breaker to "On". Check for correct operation of the new
circuit (light, outlet, etc.) with a test light or meter.[14]
 Clear any short circuit before attempting a reset if circuit
breaker instantly trips.

15. Label the circuit breaker. Locate the panel's circuit directory
on the inside of the panel door. Determine the circuit breaker
location (or "circuit number") and write a description of the circuit
(load type such as "refrigerator" or a location such as "living room")
in the space provided. Be sure to edit the directory if any circuits
were moved to install the new circuit.

Assessment Method:
Demonstration
 Performance Criteria Checklist 2.1-1

CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….?
1. Prepare the tools, materials and equipment used
in the task.
2. Accurately follow the installation process.
3. Wear the proper personal protective clothing.
4. Perform the task following proper safety
procedures and practices.
5. Use the given tools, materials and equipment
according to its function.
6. Check the functionality of the installed circuit
breaker.
7. Finish on the allocated and given time.
8. Apply the 5 S.
 Information Sheet 2.1-2
TROUBLESHOOTING DEFECTIVE FLUORESCENT LAMP FIXTURES

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Determine defective fluorescent lamp
2. Solve and repair Fluorescent Lamp

This LO1 of the Module Planning and Preparing work covers the
knowledge and skills in troubleshooting of defective fluorescent lamp
assembly.
Fluorescent lamps have more components compared to incandescent
lamps and when installed in pairs or groupings, things may go wrong and
things get more complicated. In this scenario, troubleshooting is necessary.
Troubleshooting is problem detecting and solving, often applied to
repair defective gadgets or products like fluorescent lamp fixtures. It is a
systematic search for the source of a problem so that it can be solved, to
make the gadgets or products operational again.

The table below describes the common problem indications, possible

causes and corrective action that should be taken.

Troubleshooting Guide Table for Defective Fluorescent Lamp

Fixtures

Problem Possible Cause Corrective Action

A. Lamp fails to light.  Leak in the lamp  Inspect visually the
tube lamp tube for
No flickering.
possible cracked or
 damaged. If there is,
replace with a new
one.
 No electrical power  Check the power
to the lamp fixture. source. Make sure
that all power
controls such as
circuit breaker and
switch are turned
on.
 Loose contact  Adjust the lamp and
between the lamp set it properly.
and the lamp Clean dirty sockets
holder. thoroughly. Check
the spacing of the
lamp holders. If they
are too far apart,
make needed
adjustments. If
damaged, replace
the lamp holders.
 Improper wiring  Check the wiring
connections to see
whether it follows
the diagram on the
ballast label
 Defective ballast  Check the ballast.
This may be
determined by
checking continuity
between the leads of
the ballast. If the
pointer of the multi-
tester deflects a little
the ballast is good; if
it deflects fully, the
windings of the
ballast is shorted
and if it will not
deflect, the winding
is open.Replace the
ballast.
B. Slow or intermittent  Loose contact  Adjust the lamp and
between the lamp set it properly.
starting
and the holder Clean dirty sockets
thoroughly. Check
the spacing of the
lamp holders. If they
are too far apart,
 make needed
adjustments. If
damaged, replace
the lamp holders.
 Inactive starter  Test starter in
adjacent fixture. If
this does not work,
replace the starter.
 Improper wiring  Check the wiring
connections to see
whether it follows
the diagram on the
ballast label
 Defective starter  Remove the starter
while the lamp is
on. If the flashing
stops, the starter is
defective. Replace it.
 Defective ballast  If the ballast
frequency rating is
not the same as the
line frequency,
flickiring may occur.
Replae with a ballast
with proper rating.
C. Short life span of  Constant switching  Avoid unnecessary
the lamp on and off of the turning on and off
circuit the cicuit, to
maximize the life
span of the lamp.
 Loose contact  Adjust the lamp and
between the lamp set it properly.
and the holder Clean dirty sockets
thoroughly. Check
the spacing of the
lamp holders. If they
are too far apart,
make needed
adjustments. If
damaged, replace
the lamp holders.
 Improper wiring  Check the wiring
connections to see
whether it follows
the diagram on the
ballast label.
 Defective starter  Remove the starter
while the lamp is on.
 If the flashing stops,
the starter is
defective. Replace it.
D. Blinking or  Impurities inside  At times, the arc in
flickering the lamp the lamp may swirl
during normal
operation. Trying to
turn the lamp on
and off usually
solves this, if this
does not work,
replace the lamp.
 Loose contact  Adjust the lamp and
between the lamp set it properly.
and the holder Clean dirty sockets
thoroughly. Check
the spacing of the
lamp holders. If they
are too far apart,
make needed
adjustments. If
damaged, replace
the lamp holders.
 Improper wiring  Check the wiring
connections to see
whether it follows
the diagram on the
ballast label
 Defective starter  Remove the starter
while the lamp is on.
If the flashing stops,
the starter is
defective. Replace it.
 Defective ballast  If the ballast
frequency rating is
not the same as the
line frequency,
flickiring may occur.
Replae with a ballast
with proper rating.
 Self- Check 2.1-1

A. Directions: Fill in the blank to match or to complete the Troubleshooting

Guide Table. Use a separate sheet of paper.

Problem Possible Cause Corrective Action

Lamp fails to light. Leak in the lamp 1.
tube
No flickering.

2. Check the power

source. Make sure
that all power
controls such as
circuit breaker and
switch are turned
on.
Improper wiring 3.

4. Check the ballast.

This may be
determined by
checking continuity
between the leads of
the ballast. If the
pointer of the multi-
tester deflects a little
the ballast is good; if
it deflects fully, the
 windings of the
ballast is shorted
and if it will not
deflect, the winding
is open.Replace the
ballast.
Slow or intermittent 5. Adjust the lamp and
set it properly.
starting
Clean dirty sockets
thoroughly. Check
the spacing of the
lamp holders. If they
are too far apart,
make needed
adjustments. If
damaged, replace
the lamp holders.

Inactive starter 6.

7. Check the wiring

connections to see
whether it follows
the diagram on the
ballast label
Short life span of the Constant switching 8.
lamp on and off of the
circuit.
9. Remove the starter
while the lamp is
on. If the flashing
stops, the starter is
defective. Replace it.
Blinking or flickering 10. At times, the arc in
the lamp may swirl
during normal
operation. Trying to
turn the lamp on
and off usually
solves this, if this
does not work,
replace the lamp.
 ANSWER KEY 2.1-1

A. Fill in the blanks.

1. Inspect visually the lamp tube for possible cracked or damaged. If

there is, replace with a new one.
2. No electrical power to the lamp fixture.
3. Check the wiring connections to see whether it follows the diagram
on the ballast label
4. Defective ballast
5. Loose contact between the lamp and the holder
6. Test starter in adjacent fixture. If this does not work, replace the
starter.
7. Improper wiring
8. Avoid unnecessary turning on and off the cicuit, to maximize the
life span of the lamp.
9. Defective starter
10. Impurities inside the lamp
 TASK SHEET 2.1-2
Title: TROUBLESHOOTING DEFECTIVE FLUORESCENT LAMP
FIXTURES

Performance Objective: Given with the instrument, tools, and

materials, you should be able to troubleshoot
defective flourescent lamp and fixtures following
the troubleshooting procedure within 1 hour.

Supplies/Materials : Defective Fluorescent Lamp , Fluorescent

tube, ballast, starter, holder and housing , Electrical tape and Flat cord
#20 awg ,

Tools/ Equipment : Multi-tester , Philip Screw driver , Flat

Screw driver , Side cutting pliers , Long nose pliers , Gloves and
Goggles

Steps/Procedure:
1. Prepare the necessary tools, equipment, and materials.
2. Wear appropriate PPE.
3. Perform appropriate troubleshooting process based on the
Troubleshooting Table for Defective Fluorescent Lamp Fixtures.
4. Check the output for functionality.
5. Observe good housekeeping.

Assessment Method:
Demonstration
 Performance Criteria Checklist 2.1-2

CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….?
1. Prepare the tools, materials and equipment used
in the task.
2. Accurately follow the troubleshooting process.
3. Wear the proper personal protective clothing.
4. Perform the task following proper safety
procedures and practices.
5. Use the given tools, materials and equipment
according to its function.
6. Check the functionality of the repaired
fluorescent lamp
7. Finish on the allocated and given time.
8. Apply the 5 S.
 TASK SHEET 2.1-3
Title: REPLACING FLUORESCENT LAMP

Performance Objective: Given with the instrument, tools, and

materials, you should be able to troubleshoot
defective flourescent lamp and fixtures following
the troubleshooting procedure within 1 hour.

Supplies/Materials : Fluorescent Lamp , Fluorescent tube,

ballast, starter, holder and housing , Electrical tape and Flat cord #20
awg ,

Tools/ Equipment : Multi-tester , Philip Screw driver , Flat

Screw driver , Side cutting pliers , Long nose pliers , Gloves and
Goggles

Steps/Procedure:
1. Turn Off the Power
Deenergize old fixture. Note that simply turning off wall switch
may not deenergize fixture, so be sure to remove circuit's fuse
or trip circuit breaker.
2. Remove the Old Hardware
Remove old hardware that holds existing lamp fixture in place,
and disconnect lamp wires from circuit line wires. Then
disassemble new fluorescent lamp as far as necessary to gain
access to fixture wires.
3. Connect the Wires.
Connect fixture wires to line wires with wirenuts or crimp-type
solderless connectors. Match wires by.
4. Reassemble the Fixture.
Position fixture against ceiling, and fasten it with screws
packaged with new lamp. You may have to reassemble fixture,
either before or after mounting it, depending on its style.
Restore power.

Assessment Method:
Demonstration
 Performance Criteria 2.1-3
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….?
1. Prepare the tools, materials and equipment used
in the task.
2. Accurately follow the assembly process.
3. Wear the proper personal protective clothing.
4. Perform the task following proper safety
procedures and practices.
5. Use the given tools, materials and equipment
according to its function.
6. Check the functionality of the repaired
fluorescent lamp
7. Finish on the allocated and given time.
8. Apply the 5 S.
 OPERATION SHEET 2.1-3
Title: OPERATING DIGITAL MULTIMETER

Performance Objective: Given with the instrument, tools, and

materials, you should be able to troubleshoot
defective fluorescent lamp and fixtures following
the troubleshooting procedure within 1 hour.

Supplies/Materials : Defective Fluorescent Lamp

Tools/ Equipment : Multi-tester

Steps/Procedure:
1. Turn the meter on
2. Insert the probes into the correct connections - this is required
because there may be a number of different connections that
can be used.
3. Set switch to the correct measurement type and range for the
measurement to be made. When selecting the range, ensure
that the maximum range is above that anticipated. The range
on the DMM can then be reduced as necessary. However by
selecting a range that is too high, it prevents the meter being
overloaded.

4. Optimise the range for the best reading. If possible enable all
the leading digits to not read zero, and in this way the greatest
number of significant digits can be read.
5. Once the reading is complete, it is a wise precaution to place
the probes into the voltage measurement sockets and turn the
range to maximum voltage. In this way if the meter is
accidentally connected without thought for the range used,
there is little chance of damage to the meter. This may not be
true if it left set for a current reading, and the meter is
accidentally connected across a high voltage point!

Assessment Method:
Demonstration
 Performance Checklist 2.1-4

CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….?
1. Inspect the equipment before using.
2. Accurately follow the operation process.
3. Operate the equipment following the standard of
operating using the given procedure.
4. Perform the task following proper safety
 procedures and practices.
5. Use the given tool according to its function.
6. Finish on the allocated and given time.

Information Sheet 2.1-5

 ELECTRICAL WIRING PLAN
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Determine the Parts of an Electrical Wiring Plan
2. Identify the material, devices and equipment used in electrical
wiring.
3. Know the CIRCUITING GUIDELINES based on the Philippine
Electrical Code (PEC)

Electrical Wiring Plan is a technical representation of electrical system

proposed to be installed in building or house. It includes material, devices
and equipment.
This module, you will learn the different parts of an electric wiring
plan, to understand the work load and the circuiting guidelines. That will
serve as your guide to comply in the given requirement.

Parts of an Electrical Wiring Plan

Floor Plan is a plan of a room or floor of a building drawn to scale as
if viewed from above.
 Sample Floor Plan
The Legend shows the meaning of each symbol used in the electrical
plan. The following are sample symbols commonly used in the plan.

The Load Schedule

The following details can be seen in the schedule of load:
 Number of branch circuit of electrical wiring system
 Number of light outlet, power outlet and switches per branch
 Total wattage rating of the load per circuit branch
 Total current load per circuit and size of wire used
  Computation of the total power and current of each circuit branch.
 Size of conduit used for feeder line and branch circuits

Sample Load Schedule

The Riser Diagram is a single line diagram presentation of the entire

electrical circuit from the service entrance up to the smallest circuit branch.
It shows:
 Character and type of service, single phase 2 wire/ 3 wire
 Size of service entrance conductor and the conduit used
 Type and size of wire for each branch
 Size of protective device for main circuit breaker and each branch

Title Block

The title block or the name plate indicates the following details:

1. Name and location of the proposed installation.

2. Name and address of the owner.
3. Name and signature and dry seal of master electrician or electrical
engineer.
4. Printed name of the owner
5. Initial of the draftsman and the data when drawing was done.
 Sample Title Block

Specification

Specification includes the following:

1. Classification of service
2. Type of wiring method to be used
3. Number of branch circuit and their corresponding sizes
4. Supplies materials to be used by the contractor

Location map shows the following details:

1. Bordering areas showing the well known streets

2. Location of the utility company pole which supplies electric energy

Sample Location Map

CIRCUITING GUIDELINES based on the Philippine Electrical Code (PEC)

requirements:
1. The code requires sufficient circuitry to supply residential load of 30
watts
per square meter.
2. The requirement 30 watts per square meter is up to 80 square meters for
20 amp circuit (2400 watts) or 60 square meters for 15 ampere circuit
(1800watts).
3. The code requires a minimum of 20 amperes for appliance branch to feed
all small appliances outlet in the kitchen, dining, and living room.
4. The general purpose branch shall be rated 20 amperes. Wire no. 12 AWG
is the minimum size of conductor required for all the convenience outlets.
5. The minimum circuit load of 15 ampere circuit breaker shall be used for
light circuit.
6. Plug outlet or convenience receptacles shall be counted in computing the
load if it’s not in the load of general lighting circuit.
 For 15 amp circuit: 9/1.5= 6 outlets
 For 20 amp circuit 12/1.5= 8 outlets
7. Convenience outlet should be planned properly. It should not be placed in
one circuit so that the failure of one will not deprive the supply of power
to the other circuit.
8. All kitchen outlets should be fed from any of the circuits except lighting
circuit.
9. Certain outlet in the room should be designed as appliances outlet.
 All kitchen receptacles
 Dining room receptacles
 One in the living room
10.The code requires that at least one 20 amp circuit is supplied to the
laundry outlets.
11. Provide a separate circuit for air conditioning units.( Consider it as a
special purpose circuit / outlet )

Self- Check 2.1-5

Directions: Identify what is being referred to by the following statement.

Write your answer on a separate sheet of paper.

1. It is a technical representation of
an electrical
system proposed to be installed
in building or
house.
2. It is a part of the electrical plan
which shows the
size of service entrance conduit.
3. It is a part of the wiring plan
which shows the number of
branch of electrical circuit.
4. It shows the meaning of electrical
symbols used in the electrical
 plan.
5. It shows the name and location of
the proposed wiring installation.
6. It is a plan of a room or floor of a
building drawn to scale as if
viewed from above.
7. It is a part of the plan
classification of service and type
of wiring method to be used.
8. The PEC requires that at least
one ____amp is supplied to the
laundry outlets.
9. The PEC requires sufficient
circuitry to supply residential
load of ____watts per square
meter.
10. The minimum circuit load of
____amperes circuit breaker shall
be used for light circuit.

Answer Key 2.1-5

Directions: Identify what is being referred to by the following statement.

Write your answer on a separate sheet of paper.

1. Electrical Wiring Plan

2. Riser Diagram
3. Load Schedule
4. Legend
5. Title Block
6. Floor Plan
7. Specification
8. 20
9. 30
10. 15
 TASK SHEET 2.1-5
Title: SKETCHING ELECTRICAL LAYOUTS

Performance Objective: Given with the supplies and materials,

you should be able to sketch electrical lay-outs
following the PEC’s standards within 1 hour.

Supplies/Materials : pencil, Oslo Paper, eraser, ruler, triangles,

protractor and T-square

Equipment : chair and a drawing table

Steps/Procedure:
1. Know Your Layout
- Make sure to include features such as cabinets, counters,
stove, bed, and other various symbols.
2. Plan it in Advance
After finalizing your layout, focus on your electrical plan. The
wirings go through the ceilings, walls, and floor before they are
plastered, laid out, and fixed.
3. Use Interior Layout as Your Starting Point
Around your exits and entries, place your fan, AC switches, and
light. Now, place your electrical outlets near the counters and
 tables. Then, decide where to put your big appliances like TV,
computer, washing machine, printer, etc.
When making an electrical plan, ask yourself some questions:
Do I place switches at a convenient location?
Is the electrical load on all the circuit alright?
Do I place enough easy-to-reach receptacles?
4. Walk Through Your Plan
Once you are finished with your layout, print it out, and walk
through your home while holding it. Since there are no walls
and electricity, the arrangement can be easily changed;
therefore, imagine that you are turning on and plugging in
appliances. This will enable you to put switches and outlets in
the best places.

Assessment Method: Demonstration

 Performance Criteria Checklist 2.1-5

CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Prepare the tools, materials and equipment used
in the task.
2. Accurately sketch the Electrical Layouts following
PEC’s standard
3. Use of Drawing Instrument correctly
4. Performed the task completely
5. Finish on the allocated and given time.
 Information Sheet 2.1-6
SKETCHING AN ELECTRICAL WIRING PLAN

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:

1. Create an Electrical Wiring Plan

2. Reading and analyzing Electrical Wiring Plan

3. Determine total watts and current loads

Sketching an Electrical Wiring Plan Before starting to sketch an
electrical wiring plan, the minimum requirements for each area or room in the
building should be considered.

In this module you will let you understand better in sketching an

electrical wiring plan with the minimum requirements for each area or room in
the building following with its standard.

BEDROOM

A bedroom is a private room where people normally sleep for the night
or relax during the day. A general illumination should be provided in this area.
Convenience outlets should also be installed on each side and within 1.5 to 2
meters of the centerline of each bed location.

Lighting and power provision for the bedroom

MASTER’S BEDROOM
 The master’s bedroom is the principal bedroom in a house and is
usually occupied by the head of the household. The lighting and
power/convenience outlets requirement is similar to the ordinary bedroom.

Lighting and power provision for the masters bedroom

DINING AREA

A dining area is a part of the house for consuming food. In modern

times it is usually adjacent to the kitchen for convenience in serving. This area
should be well lighted and provided with convenience outlets.
 Lighting and power provision for a typical dining area

LIVING AREA

A living area is a part in a residential house for relaxing and

socializing. This should be provided with convenience outlets. Usually
chandelier and pin lights are installed in this area as shown in the drawing.

KITCHEN
A kitchen is a part of a house used for cooking and food preparation.
This area should be well lighted and should be provided with convenience
outlets. A special purpose outlets should be installed for cooking range and
other kitchen appliances.
Toilet and Bathroom

A toilet is a sanitation fixture used primarily for the disposal of

human excrement and urine. A bathroom is a room for personal hygiene,
generally containing a bathtub or a shower. Lighting should be installed in this
room. Convenience outlet could also be installed but it should be near the
mirror or away from the shower area.

Lighting and power provision for the Toilet & Bathroom

PORCH
Some porches are simply attachments of a home to give the traditional
appearance to a home. Similar to a living area, this should also be provided
with convenience outlets. Usually chandelier and pin lights are installed in this
area as shown in the drawing.

Typical Porch Lighting and power provision

GARAGE

The traditional opening of garage door is through manual operation.

But because of the high technology, garage door remote has been introduced.
Lighting and convenience outlets should be provided in this area.
 Typical Garage Lighting and power provision

GARDEN

A garden is a planned space, usually outdoors, set aside for the

display, cultivation of plants and other forms of nature. Lighting and
convenience outlets should be provided in the area.

Garden Lighting and power provision

The final design of the typical bungalow residential wiring plan is

shown below, indicating service entrance, electric meter, position of the
switches, convenience outlets, lighting outlets and panel board.
READING ELECTRICAL PLAN

To read electrical plans, start with the floor plans where you can get an idea of
the layout and intent of the space. Carefully study and understand the wiring
diagrams, which show the paths that wires will take from each piece of
equipment back to the panel. Electrical components are represented by various
symbols and their corresponding meaning.
Number of lighting outlets, switches, and convenience outlets (C.O.) found
in figures A and B

Part of the No. of Lighting No. of Switch- No. of C.O.-Type

House Outlet Type

Living Area 1 2 - s2 2

Bedroom 1 2 1 - s3 1 & 1 - acu

Bedroom 2 2 1 - s3 1 & 1 - acu

Kitchen 1 1- s1 2 & 1 - Range

Outlet
1- s3

Dining Area 2 1 - s2 1

Porch 1 1

Car Port 2 1

Toilet & Bath 1 1- S 1

Family hall 1 1- S 2

Open Area 5 1

Passage 1

To determine total watts and current loads in figures A and B

Figure A: Lighting Outlets Layout

Examine the lighting layout in figure A. There are 19 lighting outlets.
Split the 19 lighting outlets into two circuits 1 and 2.

There are 19 light outlet divided into two

Circuit 1 = 9 light outlets
 Circuit 2 = 10 light outlets

A. Circuit – 1 Lighting Load (9 light outlets)

1. The Philippine Electrical Code provides that 100 watts be the maximum load
light outlet. Thus, for 9 light outlets at 100 watts, multiply: 9 outlets x 100
watts = 900 watts
2. Compute the current load 900watts/230volts = 3.91amperes

B. Circuit – 2 Lighting Load (10 lights outlets)

1. For 10 light outlets, find the total load in watts:

10 light outlets x 100 watts = 1,000 watts

2. Compute current load:

1000 watts/230 volts = 4.35 amperes

Figure B: Convenience Outlets/Power Layout

Count the convenience outlets in figure B. There are 16 convenience
outlets.
Circuit – 3 = 6 convenience outlets
Circuit – 4 = 6 convenience outlets
Circuit – 5 = 1- range load
Circuit – 6 = 1- water heater load
Circuit – 7 = 1- Aircon Unit
Circuit – 8 = 1- Aircon Unit
C. Circuit – 3 for small Appliance Load: The Philippine Electrical Code
specifies 180 watts load limit per convenience outlet. Thus:

1. Find the number of appliance outlet and total load in watts. 6 outlets X 2
gang per outlet x 180 watts 12 x 180 = 2,160 watts

2. Compute current load 2,160 watts/230 volts = 9.39 amperes

D. Circuit - 4 for small Appliance Load

1. Find the number of appliance outlet and Total Load in watts.
6 outlets X 2 gang per outlet x 180 watts
12 x 180 = 2,160 watts
2. Compute current load
2,160 watts/230 volts = 9.39 amperes

E. Circuit - 5 for Range Load

1. Range load (appliance rating) at 8.0 kw = 8,000 watts

2. Solve for current load
8,000watts/230 volts = 34.78 amperes
F. Circuit - 6 for water Heater load

1. One unit of water heater at 2.5 kw = 2,500 watts

2. The total current load will be; 2,500 watts/230 volts = 10.86 amperes

G. Circuit - 7 and 8 with 1-unit air conditioner each

1. One unit of air conditioner at 1.5 horse power is: 1.5 hp x 746 watts =
1,119 watts Article 6.7 of the Philippine Electrical Code (PEC) provides
that: “Branch circuit conductor supplying a motor shall have an ampacity
not less than 125% of the full load current”

2. Current load:
1,119 watts/230 = 4.87 amperes
4.86 x 125% = 6.07 amperes
 JOB SHEET 2.1-6
Title: SKETCHING ELECTRICAL LAYOUTS

Performance Objective: Given with the supplies and materials,

you should be able to sketch electrical lay-outs
following the PEC’s standards within 1 hour.

Supplies/Materials : pencil, Oslo Paper, eraser, ruler, triangles,

protractor and T-square, Sketch pad paper

Equipment : chair and a drawing table

Procedure:
Note: one Oslo paper/ bond paper for each required task
1. Draw a floor plan.
2. Layout the position of light outlet in your floor plan.
3. Lay out the position of power outlet in your floor plan.
4. Connect the power outlet to its corresponding circuit branch.
5. Prepare the load schedule.
6. Prepare legends.
 7. Prepare the schematic feeder diagram (riser).
8. Prepare the specification.
9. Prepare the location map.
10. Prepare the title block.

Assessment Method: Demonstration

Performance Criteria Checklist 2.1-6

CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Prepare the tools, materials and equipment used
in the task.
2. Accurately sketch the Electrical Layouts following
PEC’s standard
3. Use of Drawing Instrument correctly
4. Performed the task completely
5. Finish on the allocated and given time.
 Information Sheet 2.1-7
ESTIMATING ELECTRICAL MATERIALS NEEDED FOR THE JOB

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Provides a reasonable, accurate idea of the costs
2. Estimate electrical materials for the installation of the two
fluorescent lamps

Estimating and costing electrical projects is a crucial step in every

construction project. Without electrical estimating, it is difficult for owners to
accurately calculate total project costs.

In this module you will let you understand better in providing an

accurate estimation for electrical materials needed for the job.

Estimation - the act of making a judgment especially of value, size, or cost.

Below are some of the estimating methods used most by electrical estimators.
Each come with their own sets of pros and cons.

Per-point method
 The per-point method means that each fixture – whether it’s a power
point, switch, sensor or otherwise – is counted as a “point” that is assigned a
common dollar value. To give an example, if you counted 1000 points and each
was given the value of Php100, your quote for the project would be
Php100,000.

While a pro of this method of estimating is that it is quick and easy, on the
negative side of the equation, it is rife with possibilities for an inaccurate
estimate. For example, let’s consider labour and how much it can vary between
jobs. If you’re assigning the same points to every fixture, you can have huge
variation.

Let’s say one project has more cable that needs to be run between power
points, or some have single sockets while others have doubles. Further, the
work conditions might automatically involve greater labour – what if you had to
drill into concrete? Labour is the common pitfall with the per-point method
because you can very quickly go over budget with your labour costs. For any
electrical company, this can cause a huge hit to your profitability.

This method of electrical estimating is an averaging method, which means

highs and lows aren’t accounted for. Discrepancies in the final estimate are
common because it’s a sort of “one size fits all” approach. The caveat here is
that if you were building something that has little variation from past projects,
this method may work out for you.

Labour unit method

The labour unit method assigns a value (in units) to the human labour
required for the installation of each item of hardware. A labour unit is defined
in the OECD as the average cost of labour per unit of output produced. It is the
ratio of total labour costs to real output.

So for example, perhaps each labour unit is Php75. Installation of a single

socket might be one labour unit, a sensor might be three, and so on. You then
multiply the total number of labour units by your labour unit value to come up
with a quote.

We’ve talked about calculating labour costs accurately on a previous post.

Labour units are usually calculated either by using a “shop average labour
rate,” where the total field labour rate over the last 12 months is divided by the
total number of labour hours; or the “job average labour rate,” where the
labour unit is calculated based on the type of job and its complexity.

The labour unit method can be more accurate than the per-point method
because there is the opportunity to more reasonably calculate for the labour
conditions. There are still some common pitfalls though. For example,
sometimes people forget to include “labour burden” costs – those costs
associated with your workforce that aren’t directly related to their work. For
example, costs like sick leave, holiday pay, insurance or taxes.

If you use the labour unit method, you also need to be careful to distinguish
between different working conditions as this is where you can end up with an
inaccurate estimate. For example, the difference in labour between “easy” and
“difficult” conditions can be considerable, so you wouldn’t want to short-
change your company by basing your labour units too cheaply.

Pre-build

Pre-build is also known as the “assembly estimating method.” This can be a

simple way to count takeoffs because it packages your elements by including
the necessary materials and creating a unit price.

There are many parts in electrical construction that include multiple

components. For example, power sockets include the power point, mounting
bracket and cabling. You can package this together as one unit cost.

When you quote for pre-builds or assemblies, you might include a combination
of materials and labour, or separate billable items for labour and materials.
Some contracts are known as schedules of rates or unit price contracts. If
you’re quoting for one of these, you will usually be required to quote your unit
rates for pre-builds or assemblies in the schedule.

The pre-build method can run into similar inaccuracies as the per-point
method (it’s really a more complex version of the per-point method). Common
mistakes include inaccurate labour calculation, or failing to account for travel
costs to the job.

Design and construct

In the design and construct method, the electrical contractor is involved with
the design as well as the actual implementation of the project. The customer
will usually provide a design brief that details their parameters for the project
and the electrical contractor will complete a more detailed design, before
continuing with the electrical construction.

This is one of the most complex estimating methods. You will usually have to
work within the budget of the client and provide very accurate forecasting from
design to construction. This differs from the sorts of projects where you bid a
price for a completed design.

The electrical estimator using the design and construct method needs
comprehensive design methodology knowledge, as well as construction, labour,
materials and equipment expertise. The main draw back of this method is its
complexity, which can leave the possibility of error open at any stage.

Guesstimate

There’s a good reason we left this estimating method until last – while
guesstimating is still often used, it’s the most prone to error. If you’ve ever
come across the contractor that eyeballs a project and provides a quote off the
top of their head, this is a good example of guesstimating.

Guesstimating is often based on gut feeling rather than any sort of thorough
analysis of the job at-hand. For this reason, it can lead to highly inaccurate
estimates that fail to account for complexities of the job or conversely,
overestimate them.

In saying that, someone who is highly experienced might be able to look at a

job and guesstimate with some accuracy, especially if it is of the type and size
they have been doing for years. We’d suggest this isn’t a good method for
anyone who is less than an expert though – it’s too open to error.

However, with Countfire’s electrical estimating software you can build an

estimate based on the work you have already created in other estimates. As
soon you import your takeoff quantities (in one-click!) the software will
automatically price as much of your estimate as possible, based on how you
have priced items in the past.

This is a much more robust way to quickly price and get a ballpark figure for
your estimate, that’s based on actual previous projects.

Final thoughts

Estimating methods tend to come down to the skill of the estimator and their
preference (or their company’s preference) of methodology. Factors like speed,
accuracy and experience are also a big part of that choice.

Overall, we suggest any method used should be based on good data. For
example, labour estimates should involve the best possible information about
similar jobs done previously and how the working conditions impact labour.

Of course, if you want to improve speed and accuracy when counting takeoffs,
we recommend using a good takeoff software. Countfire is here to help you
estimate with confidence.

Estimate electrical materials for the installation of the two fluorescent

lamps controlled by the two 3 –way-switches and One SPST switch using
Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit in a 4’ x 4’ x 3/4” wiring board.
 Self-Check 2.1-7

A. Enumeration: List down the different estimating methods.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

B. Essay

1. Why do we need to know how to estimate electrical projects.

 Answer Key 2.1-7

A. Enumeration:

1. Per-point method
2. Labour unit method
3. Pre-build
4. Design and construct
5. Guesstimate

B. Essay

Possible Answer:

1. Estimating and costing electrical projects is a crucial step in every

construction project. Without electrical estimating, it is difficult for owners to
accurately calculate total project costs.
 TASK SHEET 2.1-7
Title: ESTIMATING ELECTRICAL MATERIALS NEEDED FOR THE
JOB

Performance Objective: Given with the supplies and materials,

you should be able to estimating electrical materials needed for the job
following the PEC’s standards within 2 hour.

Supplies/Materials : electrical boxes, wiring supports and

fittings; electrical conductors; switches; and lamp sockets

Equipment : 4’ x 4’ x 3/4” wiring board

Procedure:
1. Analyze the given working drawing.
2. Determine the type of wiring method to be used.
3. List down all the necessary tools needed for the installation. List down
the required instruments to be used in wiring the circuit.
4. List down the needed materials such as electrical boxes, wiring
supports
and fittings; electrical conductors; switches; and lamp sockets.
5. List down the required PPE for the installation.

Materials, Tools. Descriptions Quantity

Equipment and PPE
Materials

Tools

Equipment

Personal Protective
Equipment (PPE)

Assessment Method: Demonstration

Performance Criteria Checklist 2.1-7

 INFORMATION SHEET 2.1-8
POWER SYSTEM PROTECTION COMPONENTS

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Know the Key Components of Protection System
2. Determine how protection system works.
 The protection system is designed to disconnect the faulted system
element automatically when the short circuit currents are high enough to
present a direct danger to the element or to the system as a whole.

In this module you will let you understand better on the importance
of a power system.

The operation of a power system is affected by disturbances that could

be due to natural occurrences such as lightning, wind, trees, animals, and
human errors or accidents. These disturbances could lead to abnormal system
conditions such as short circuits, overloads, and open circuits.
Short circuits, which are also referred to as faults, are of the greatest
concern because they could lead to damage to equipment or system elements
and other operating problems including voltage drops, decrease in frequency,
loss of synchronism, and complete system collapse. There is, therefore, a need
for a device or a group of devices that is capable of recognizing a disturbance
and acting automatically to alleviate any ill effects on the system element or on
the operator. Such capability is provided by the protection system.

The protection system is designed to disconnect the faulted system

element automatically when the short circuit currents are high enough to
present a direct danger to the element or to the system as a whole.

When the fault results in overloads or short-circuits currents that do

not present any immediate danger, the protection system will initiate an alarm
so that measures can be implemented to remedy the situation.

Key Components of Protection System

There are three principal components of a protection system:

1. Transducer
2. Protective relay
3. Circuit breaker

Transducers

The transducer serves as a sensor to detect abnormal system conditions and to

transform the high values of short-circuit current and voltage to lower levels.
The main sensors used are the current transformer (CT) and the potential
transformer (PT).

The current transformer is designed to provide a standard continuous

secondary current of 5 A. Standard CT ratios available include 50/5, 100/5,
150/5, 200/5, 250/5, 300/5, 400/5, 500/5, 600/5, 800/5, 900/5, 1000/5,
1200/5, 1500/5, and 2000/5. During fault conditions, the short-circuit
currents could reach over 10 times normal for short periods of time without
damaging the CT windings.

The current transformer has a primary winding that usually consists

of one turn and a secondary winding of several turns. It is, therefore, unsafe to
open- circuit the secondary of a CT whose primary is energized.

The potential transformer is designed to operate at a constant

standard secondary voltage of 120 V. For low-voltage applications, the PT is
just like any other two-winding voltage transformer. For primary voltages in the
HV and EHV levels, a capacitor voltage-divider circuit is used together with the
PT. The primary voltage is impressed across the series-connected capacitors.
The PT is used to measure the voltage of a few kilovolts across the capacitor of
the smaller capacitance value.

Protective Relays

A protective relay is a device that processes the signals provided by

the transducers, which may be in the form of a current, a voltage, or a
combination of current and voltage. These signals arise as a result of a faulted
condition such as a short circuit, defective equipment or lines, lightning
strikes, or surges.
The protective relay can initiate or permit the opening of various
interrupting devices or sound an alarm. There are two main classifications of
protective relays based on their construction: electromechanical and solid
state.

The electromechanical relay develops an electromagnetic force or torque from

the signal provided by the transducer; this force or torque is used to physically
open, or close, a set of contacts to permit or initiate the tripping of circuit
breakers or actuate an alarm.

The solid-state, or static, relay is energized by the same signals as in an

electromechanical relay. However, there is no physical opening, or closing, of
the relay contacts. Instead, the switching of the relay contacts is simulated by
causing a solid-state device to change its status from conducting (closed
position) to non-conducting (open position).

Electromechanical relays predate the solid-state relays. A majority of power

system installations still use electromechanical relays. The improved reliability,
versatility, and faster response (as low as one-quarter cycle) of solid-state
relays have made them more attractive.
Some electromechanical relays have been replaced by solid-state relays, and in
newer installations, a mixture of both types would usually be found.

Circuit Breakers

A circuit breaker is a mechanical device used to energize and

interrupt an electric circuit. It should be able to open and close quickly, maybe
in the order of a few milliseconds.

It should be able to carry the rated current continuously at the

nominal voltage, and it must be able to withstand the large short-circuit
current (called its momentary rating) that flows during the first cycle after a
fault occurs.
The circuit breaker must be able to interrupt a large short-circuit
current called its interrupting rating. The momentary rating is about 1.6 times
the interrupting rating because the former includes the effect of the DC
component of the transient short-circuit current.

When the current-carrying contacts of the circuit breaker are opened, an

electric field appears across the contacts that ionize the medium between them,
and an arc is established between the contacts. The circuit breaker must be
able to extinguish, or interrupt, this arc as quickly as possible.

The arc is made to take an elongated path, cooled, and finally extinguished
when the AC current feeding the arc passes through its zero value. Sometimes,
the arc is extinguished in the air, oil, sulfur hexachloride (SF6), or a vacuum.

Self-Check 2.1-8

A. Enumeration: Read the question carefully and write your answer on a

separate sheet of paper.

1. What are the three key components of a protection system?

B. Essay: Explain briefly.

1. How does a Protection system works.

Answer Key 2.1.-8

A. Enumeration:
 1. Transducer
2. Protective relay
3. Circuit breaker

B. Essay: Explain briefly.

Possible Answer:

1. The protection system is designed to disconnect the faulted system element

automatically when the short circuit currents are high enough to present a
direct danger to the element or to the system as a whole.