Common solutions for: Whirlpool

Refrigerator not defrosting

01 - Defrost Control Board
The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the
refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test
the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are
working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.

02 - Defrost Timer
The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost
that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not
advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost
cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost
cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send
power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this
indicates that the defrost timer is not advancing. If the defrost timer is not advancing, replace it.
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03 - Defrost Heater Assembly

The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost
that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective,
the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To
determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost
heater does not have continuity, replace it.

04 - Defrost Sensor with Fuse

The defrost sensor monitors the temperature of the evaporator. The defrost sensor has a fuse to
back up the sensor in case the sensor fails. If the defrost sensor fails to shut off the defrost
heater, the fuse will blow in order to shut off the defrost heater. If the defrost sensor fuse blows,
the defrost system will not work, and the refrigerator will not defrost. The defrost sensor fuse is
not resettable—if the defrost sensor fuse blows, you must replace the defrost sensor. To
determine if the defrost sensor or fuse is defective, use a multimeter to test both the sensor and
fuse for continuity. If either the defrost sensor or fuse does not have continuity, replace the
defrost sensor.

05 - Defrost Thermostat
The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. When the coils drop
below a set temperature, the thermostat contacts close to allow power to flow to the defrost
heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that
may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the
thermostat contacts will not close. As a result, the thermostat won’t provide power to the defrost
heater. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for
continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity when it reaches the low
temperature of its operating range, replace it.
06 - Main Control Board
The main control board regulates the power supply to all of the refrigerator components,
including the defrost system. If the main control board is defective, it may stop sending voltage
to the defrost system. Control boards are frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the main
control, first test all of the defrost system components. If none of the defrost system components
are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

How do you manually defrost a Whirlpool refrigerator?

The safest and easiest way of defrosting a freezer is to simply let the ice melt on its own. After
you unplug your appliance, leave the door open and wait for the ice to melt on its own. 6. If you
want to expedite the melting process, you can put a fan near your freezer to help it defrost.

Whirlpool Refrigerator Repair -Control

Board Diagnostics-
Good Diagnostic Skills Are The Key To Any Successful
Refrigerator Repair!
This refrigerator troubleshooting and repair guide will show you how to access your
refrigerator's diagnostic mode to test every part of the refrigerator from temperature
sensors and evaporator fan motor to the refrigerator's compressor and defrost system.
If you detect a problem with one of these refrigerator parts try looking at the refrigerator
troubleshooting page for more repair help focused on that refrigerator part.
Starting Diagnostics
To start with we need to start the refrigerator's diagnostic mode. To do this open the
refrigerator door and press one or both door switches, depending on your refrigerator
type. Next press the refrigerator temperature (+) button three times in ten seconds and
release the light switch or switches. This should display an "S" in the freezer display
and an "E" in the refrigerator display. Then press the refrigerator temperature (+) button
one time to confirm that you want the service mode. You will then see a set of numbers
displayed showing the software version for three seconds. (Again this control board is
used on many different refrigerators.) After the software version is shown the freezer
display should show "1" and the refrigerator display should be blank. Congratulations!
Pat yourself on the back, you are now ready to do refrigerator diagnostic magic! Within
the refrigerator diagnostic test mode there are 6 diagnostic tests:
You can select the test number you would like to run by pressing the freezer
temperature (+) or(-) button until the test number you want is in the freezer display.
Then using the refrigerator(+) button to cycle the test on and off.
NOTE: Most tests will need to be turned off before you will be allowed to move to the
next test with the freezer temperature buttons.
 Test#1 Defrost Thermostat Diagnostics
After pressing the refrigerator (+) button you will see ether an "O" or an "S". "O" means
that the freezer's defrost thermostat is open and will not allow electricity to reach the
defrost heater. An "S" means shorted or closed. The word shorted sounds bad but
actually that is what you want to see if the freezer is cold. If you see an "O" (open) and
the defrost thermostat is cold that means you need to replace the thermostat. The
thermostat should be shorted or closed anytime it is cold and it's safe to run a defrost
cycle. This test will also check the defrost heater. If ether the defrost thermostat or
heater are broken or "open" and the evaporator is iced up, you will need to replace the
bad part. For more information on refrigerator's defrost system take a look at this video.
Test#2 Refrigerator Compressor & Condenser Fan Diagnostics
As a general rule any time the refrigerator compressor is running so should the
condenser fan motor. The condenser fan helps to move the heat that is being pulled
from the freezer out into the room so that more heat can be removed from the food you
are hoping to keep cold.
(Refrigerator Physics)
When test 2 is selected you can turn the compressor / condenser fan circuit on and off
with the refrigerator (+) button.
an "O" is displayed in the refrigerator temperature window for "on" and an "F" for "off"
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: If the compressor has been turned on and off you need
to wait at least 10 minutes to turn it back on again or you may damage the
compressor! If the compressor does not turn on with this diagnostic test take a look at
this for more troubleshooting help.
(Compressor Troubleshooting)
Test#3 Freezer Evaporator Fan Diagnostics
The freezer evaporator fan has the very important job of moving the air inside the
refrigerator and freezer. Without it the refrigerator won't cool at all and the freezer will
only freeze small areas. press the freezer temperature buttons until "3" is displayed
then press the refrigerator (+) button. An "O" for "on" should be displayed and the
refrigerator's evaporator fan should come on. Press the refrigerator (+) button again and
an "F" for "off" is in the refrigerator display and you guessed it the fan should be turned
off.
Test#4 Refrigerator Sensor Diagnostics
Your refrigerator uses sensors called a thermistor to sense the temperature inside the
refrigerator's fresh food and freezer areas. The control then uses this information to
know if the compressor should be running to make things colder. It also uses this info
decide if more or less cold air should be allowed into the fresh food area through the
damper door. The sensor test gives a "P" pass, "O" open, or "S" short result. "O" or "S"
means the sensor is bad or a "P.O.S." and needs to be replaced, a "P" is what you
want. This still requires a little bit of faith in the control that it is working well enough to
give you the correct information...If you don't trust the control and want to test the
sensor directly it should have the following resistance readings at the given
temperature...
(How to use a Multimeter)
 @77ºF 10,000Ω +or- 1.8%
 @36ºF 29,500Ω +or- 1.0%
 @0ºF 86,300Ω +or- 1.8%

Test#5 Freezer Sensor Diagnostics

Your freezer also uses a thermistor to sense the temperature inside the refrigerator's
freezer area. The control then uses this information to know if the compressor should
be running to make things colder. The freezer sensor test gives a "P" pass, "O" open, or
"S" short result. "O" or "S" means the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced, a "P" is
what you want. This still requires a control that it is working well enough to give you the
correct information... If you don't trust the control and want to test the sensor directly it
should have the following resistance readings at the given temperature...
(How to use a Multimeter)
 @77ºF 10,000Ω +or- 1.8%
 @36ºF 29,500Ω +or- 1.0%
 @0ºF 86,300Ω +or- 1.8%

Test#6 Refrigerator Damper Door Diagnostics

The refrigerator uses a part called the damper to regulate how much cold air from the
freezer is allowed to enter the refrigerator's fresh food compartment. The control uses
the refrigerator's fresh food sensor to decide if more or less cold air should be allowed
into the fresh food area through the damper door. It also may decide to close the
damper if it feels like the freezer is not cold enough. Generally your freezer section is
highest priority. So the freezer temperature or sensor can also cause the damper to
remain closed and let you refrigerator section warm up. With "6" in your freezer display
press the refrigerator (+) button to force open "O" and close "C" the damper. NOTE: you
will need to wait about 1 minute for the damper to move from the open and closed
positions. You need to actually see that the damper is moving from fully open to fully
closed. Just hearing the motor does not account for the possibility that the damper
motor is working but the door is broken.
#7 Refrigerator Temperature Adjustment
The refrigerator's fresh food temperature can be adjusted in test "7" with the refrigerator
(+) and(-) buttons, "5" is the suggested setting, "9" is coldest, and "1" is the warmest.
The last setting will be saved when you close the refrigerator door.
#8 Freezer Temperature Adjustment
In the same way the refrigerator's freezer temperature can be adjusted in test "8" with
the refrigerator (+) and(-) buttons, "5" is the suggested setting, "9" is coldest, and "1" is
the warmest. The last setting will be saved when you close the refrigerator door.
Forced Defrost Mode
The forced defrost mode is started out of the diagnostics mode. If you are in diagnostics
you can exit by closing the refrigerator door. This is a nice one because you can do a
forced defrost cycle as long as the refrigerator's defrost thermostat, heater, and control
are okay.
It is fairly common to have a large amount of frost build up and block airflow into the
fresh food area if the freezer door did not get closed all the way for a few hours. The
signs of this happening are clear, large amounts of frost or "snow" all over the freezer
compartment or frost build up near the front of the freezer compartment near the door
gasket. Doing a "long" forced defrost will probably get things back to normal.
To run a forced defrost cycle open the refrigerator door or doors if your refrigerator is a
french door model. Then hold down the door switch or switches, the display should go
blank. Next press the refrigerator temperature (-) button 3 times in 10 seconds and
release the door switches. The display should show "F" and "D" (Forced Defrost) press
the refrigerator (-) button one more time to confirm that this is what you want to do. "S"
for "short" should then be displayed in the refrigerator window. You can switch between
long and short cycles with the refrigerator (+) button. To test the circuit the short option
should be fine. However, if you are trying to get rid of a frost build up I would suggest
the long cycle.
When you have made your selection press the refrigerator (-) button to start the defrost
cycle. The display will go back to it's original settings and you can close the door. After
a few moments if everything is working properly you should hear the sweet hissing
sound of water dripping onto the red hot heater. If you don't hear anything in the freezer
after a few minutes... "Huston we have a problem"
Programming Mode
Each W10503278 control board has a software program that changes slightly from
refrigerator to refrigerator. The correct program code is printed at the bottom of your
refrigerator's model/serial number sticker in the refrigerator compartment. you can
check that you have the correct program, or set the program for your new control with
this function. Open the doors and press your door switch or switches so that the lights
and display go out. Next press the freezer temperature (-) button 3 times in 10 seconds
and release the light switch. you should see "P" and "E" (Program Mode... can't do an
"M" I suppose) in the display. Press the freezer (-) button one more time to confirm that
this is what you want. The display will show the current program. If the code is correct
just close the door. If not you can set the code with the refrigerator and freezer (+)
buttons. Once the correct code has been set press the freezer (-) button to lock it in and
close the door. NOTE: the refrigerator will not run with a code "00".
What Now?
Something seems to be wrong with your refrigerator... So what now? Good news! All
the parts managed with control board W10503278 are AC120 Volts. So it comes down
to one question is the part that failed the test bad or is it your refrigerator's control
board? To answer that question you will need to check the refrigerator part in question
directly. NOTE: If you haven't heard already, electricity is dangerous and extreme
caution needs to be used! The safest and easiest way is with a non contact voltage
meter. Start the test again for the part you want to test and then put your voltage sensor
near the wires that are attached to the suspected refrigerator part. If it lights up and
beeps then the control is sending power like it should (When you are forcing it...) If no
lights and beeps then your refrigerator control is bad. (Check your non contact meter at
a wall socket to make sure it's working.) If your refrigerator passes every test perfectly
but it's not doing things automatically like it should, it is fairly safe to assume that the
control needs to be replaced.
 Whirlpool Part# 2315531 Defrost Heater (OEM)

 Bimetal,Defrost Item #49W977 Mfr. Model #WPW10225581