- Handout -

High precision knitting

elements for the manufacture

of fine gauge fabrics

VDMA Webtalk, 17.02.2021

Roland Simmendinger
Vice President Product Development
 Agenda

1. Groz-Beckert at a glance

2. Definition of fine gauge

3. Groz-Beckert fine gauge technology

Hamburg
4. The challenge of sewing fine knitwear

5. Conclusion Berlin

Frankfurt

Stuttgart

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Product sectors

Knitting Weaving Felting Tufting Carding Sewing

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 Product range knitting

Circular Knitting Flat Knitting Warp Knitting

Cylinders/ Dials/ Sinker-Rings System Parts

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 Definition of fine gauge

Gauge E [needles/ inch] - ranges in large diameter circular knitting

Single Jersey Rib Interlock

Gauge Gauge Gauge

standard E24 - E28 E16 - E18 E20 - E24

fine E32 - E44 E20 - E24 E28 - E36

ultra fine E50 - E80 E26 - E32 E40 - E54

 extremely small loops enable a light, opaque and functional fabric

 increasing trend towards fine gauge knitwear

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 Definition of fine gauge

Correlation between machine gauge and thickness of needle

Examples: Single Jersey Rib Interlock

Gauge Needle thickness [mm] Gauge Needle thickness [mm] Gauge Needle thickness [mm]

E28 0,41 E18 0,50 E24 0,41

E44 0,26 E28 0,41 E32 0,36
E60 0,21 E40 0,30
E80 0,18 E50 0,26

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 Definition of fine gauge

Correlation between machine gauge and needle thickness

Example: single jersey machine / diameter of 30 inches

Gauge E28 - 2638 needles/ mc. Gauge E44 - 4128 needles/ mc. Gauge E60 - 5660 needles/ mc.

Thickness of needle = 0,41 mm Thickness of needle = 0,26 mm Thickness of needle = 0,21 mm

Premium quality and highest precision of each needle is required

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 Groz-Beckert Fine Gauge Technology

Requirements on fine gauge knitting machine parts

 ensure stable and high fabric quality resp. perfect uniform loop structure
 high performance in terms of dynamic stress
 long service life
 enusure high process reliability

cylinders

needles

sinkers

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 Groz-Beckert LOOP CONTROL® needles

Dimensional accuracy

Example: Vo-LC™102.18 G 001 (E80)

0,18 mm

Cautious handling in the shop floor by the knitter to avoid any bending of
the needle latch/ shank which would result in a longitudinal line in the fabric

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 Groz-Beckert LOOP CONTROL® needles

High precision & uniformity

Example: Wo-LC™ 90.21 G 001 (E60)

Insuffucient straigtness and any damage of the needle due to inadequate

machine settings or overload would result in longitudinal lines in the fabric

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 Groz-Beckert LOOP CONTROL® needles

Perfect execution of surface

Example: yarn-gliding area of a needle

Smooth and damage-free surface of the needle to avoid filamentation

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 Groz-Beckert OPTILOOP® sinkers
Perfect execution of surface

Example: yarn-gliding area of a sinker

yarn-friendly and wear-resistant surface to avoid filament damage during loop fomation process

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 Groz-Beckert Fine Gauge Cylinders

High precision knitting heads for fine gauge technology

Perfect interaction between needle - sinker - needle bed

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 Groz-Beckert Fine Gauge Cylinders

High precision in each detail Groz-Beckert offers

 tight initial trick play  sets for almost all mc. models
 gauge range E3 - E80
 high cut accuracy
 diameters up to 60“
 optimal concentricity  standard sets (OEM)

 wear-resistant  customized products

 gauge conversion sets
 reduction of temperature by special cooling systems

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 Groz-Beckert Fine Gauge Technology

The manufacture of a high quality fine gauge fabric requires:

Input
 use of an adequate yarn quality and specification
 use of highly sophisticated knitting machines
 use of knitting needles and system parts of sterling quality
 use of a suitable and high quality knitting oil

Handling & Operating

 perfect knitting machine settings
 cautious handling of needles, sinkers and yarns

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The challenge of sewing fine knitwear

Requirement: damage-free seams

Joining principle - sewing Problem: loop distortion during needle penetration

• high risk of loop damages due to needle • the penetration time is about 5/10000 of a second at a machine speed
penetration when sewing fine knitwear of 5000 rpm

Cross section at needle eye

Comparison: Gauge E60 to needle size Nm 55

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The challenge of sewing fine knitwear
Damage-free seams

Remedies:

• use of thin needle sizes

• use of a ball point style FFG (round)

SAN 10 and SAN 10 XS needle - gentle and stable: SAN® 10 XS

• combine the requirements for protection of the material and needle stability
• slim design that reduces the cross-section in the eye area SAN® 10
• stress on the material is reduced as the needle penetrates
• a special geometry in the blade that offers sufficient needle stability
Standard needle

Cross section at needle eye

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 Conclusion

In each step of the value chain the challenges and requirements for fine gauge fabric production are very high

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 Thank you very much for your attention

Please do not hesitate to contact us for a

detailed consultation about fine gauge knitting

roland.simmendinger@groz-beckert.com

homepage: www.groz-beckert.com

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