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RESEARCH PAPERS

Off Flavors of Milk:


Nomenclature, Standards, and Bibliography I
W. F. SHIPE, Chairman
Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853

R. BASSETTE
Kansas State University, Manhattan 66502

D. D. D E A N E
University of Wyoming, Laramie 82071

W. L. D U N K L E Y
University of California, Davis 95616

E. G. H A M M O N D
Iowa State University, Ames 50011

W. J. H A R P E R
Ohio State University, Columbus 43210

D. H. K L E Y N
Rutgers University, New Brunswick, NJ 08903

M. E. M O R G A N
Oregon State University, Corvallis 97331

J. H. N E L S O N
Kraft Foods, Glenview, I L 60025

and R. A. S C A N L A N
Oregon State University, Corvallis 97331

INTRODUCTION on causes is simpler and more useful than the


present system. On this basis off-flavors were
Correct identification is one of the major
divided into seven categories which are listed in
problems facing those working with milk fla-
Table 1 along with corresponding descriptive
vors. This committee sought first to develop a
and associative terms.
practical classification for off-flavors. Next,
This classification i s not perfect, but it
methods for producing some of the more com-
should aid in training personnel to identify off
mon off-flavors were studied. Finally, a biblio-
off-flavors and their causes at the same time.
graphy covering the literature from 1950 to
This scheme should eliminate pointless quibb-
1976 on off-flavors was prepared. This report
ling over such things as whether an oxidized
is intended to aid in training both research and
sample tastes metallic or papery. Regardless of
quality control personnel in the hope that more
which term is used, the remedy lies in prevent-
uniform terminology will result. ing oxidation. The committee recognized that
causes of some flavors are not known. Such fla-
NOMENCLATURE
vors would be placed in the miscellaneous
The present terminology for describing off- category until the causes have been identified.
flavors in milk includes different types of
Heated Flavor
terms. Descriptive terms such as papery, asso-
ciative terms such as oily, or causative terms The effect of heat treatment on milk flavor
such as oxidized are used. A classification based is generally recognized. The kind and intensity
of the flavor depends on the time and temper-
ature of the treatment.
Received November 16, 1977. There appear four kinds of heat-induced
1Report of the Committee on Flavor Nomencla- flavor alternations: cooked or sulfurous, heated
ture and Reference Standards. or rich, caramelized, and scorched. Pasteuriza-

1978 J Dairy Sci 61:855--869 855


856 SHIPE ET AL.

TABLE 1. Categories of off-flavors in milk.

Causes Descriptive or associative terms

Heated cooked, carmelized, scorched


Light-induced light, sunlight, activated
Lipolyzed rancid, butyric, bitter*, goaty
Microbial acid, bitter*, fruity, malty, putrid, unclean
Oxidized papery, cardboard, matallic, oily, fishy
Transmitted feed, weed, cow),, barny
Miscellaneous absorbed, astringent, bitter*, chalky, chemical, flat, foreign, lacks freshness, salty.

*Bitter flavor may arise from a number of different causes. If the specific cause is not known, it should be
classified under miscellaneous.

tion imparts a slight cooked or sulfurous note Light-Induced Flavors


to milk. The flavor is more pronounced if high-
er temperatures are used. It is accepted that Milk exposed to various forms of radiant
hydrogen sulfide contributes significantly to energy develops off-flavors (19 to 35). These
the cooked flavor (2, 3, 7). Other "volatile sul- are of practical importance when milk is ex-
fides" are believed also to contribute to this posed to sufficient direct sunlight, fluorescent
off-flavor, b u t substantiating evidence is limited light, or even diffused daylight. The problem
(9). The cooked or sulfurous note dissipates was brought into focus in the period when
upon storage and may not be noticeable after 2 dairy products were distributed in glass contain-
or 3 days. ers and left on customers' doorsteps. Factors
Milk which has been exposed to 135 to 150 which contribute to the intensity of "sunlight
C for several seconds exhibits a strong sulfur- flavor" are wavelength and intensity of light,
ous or cooked note immediately after heat exposure time, translucence of the container,
treatment (1, 4, 6), but after several days of levels of ascorbic acid, and riboflavin (16, 19,
refrigerated storage, the sulfurous note dissipa- 20, 22, 27, 28).
tes (10, 11), and a rich or heated note is per- The light-induced flavor has (13) two dis-
ceptible. It is not clear which compounds are tinct components - one a burnt, activated, or
responsible for this flavor, but recent work in- sunlight flavor which develops rapidly and has
dicates that heat-induced diacetyl contributes been attributed to degradation of serum protein
to the rich, heated note. Other potential con- components; the second component is similar
tributors include lactones, methyl ketones, to oxidized flavor. The latter flavor, attributed
maltoI, vanillin, benzaldehyde, and acetophen- to lipid oxidation, seems to develop more slow-
one. These compounds are induced by heating ly (14). The lipid-oxidation component of the
milk (8), but until quantitative information be- light-induced flavor undoubtedly contains some
comes available, their role in heated flavor is of the same volatile carbonyl compounds that
difficult to assess. are in typical oxidized flavors. Presumably,
Retorted and autoclaved milk often has a because of the difference in rate of develop-
caramelized flavor (5). Whether this flavor dif- ment of the two flavor components, the flavor
fers from, or is an extension of, the heated, of milk exposed to radiation changes with time.
rich note previously described is not known. Initially, the " b u r n t " note predominates, and
Many have suggested that nonenzymatic brown- after 2 or 3 days the "oxidized" note becomes
ing causes caramelized flavor. more pronounced; therefore, the off-flavor that
A scorched flavor can result from exception- developes several days after light exposure may
ally large amounts of " b u r n on" in a heat ex- be difficult to differentiate from oxidized fla-
changer. This flavor also occurs in dry milk vor.
powders subjected to abnormally high temper- In milk exposed to light, homogenization
ature processing. enhances the light-activated component of the

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 61, No. 7, 1978


NOMENCLATURE OF MILK OFF-FLAVORS 857

off-flavor and inhibits the oxidized component. able and useful technology (36). Animal-
A recent study compared pasteurized milk derived pregastric esterases are used to produce
exposed to sunlight with and without homogen- the characteristic "picante" flavor of Romano
ization. The level of n-pentanal was three times and Provolone cheese. Such preparations are
as great as n-hexanal in the homogenized milk used for flavor production in other cheese
and only 2/3 as great in the unhomogenized types. Lipolyzed whole milk powder, butter-
milk. All other carbonyl compounds were less in fats, and cheeses are used widely to flavor pro-
the homogenized milk (16). Methional, formed cessed foods.
by the degradation of free methionine, contrib- Literature on milk lipase is voluminous but
utes to the activated flavor component (12, 25). includes little information on the chemical or
A study with S 3 S_labeled milk confirmed that organoleptic characteristics of the lipolyzed
upon irradiation, mercaptans, sulfides, and di- flavor defect. A review by Herrington (39)
sulfides increased significantly in the milk. It is provides a comprehensive overview of milk lip-
likely that these compounds contribute to the ase biochemistry. There may be several milk
activated flavor component (26). lipases and their activity is influenced by tri-
Recently the widespread use of plastic milk glyceride and gross milk composition. Also,
containers has increased the occurrence of the lipolyzed flavor can be affected by the mech-
light-induced flavor. Exposure of milk in blow anism of enzyme activation, such as "spon-
mold, plastic containers to fluorescent lights in taneous" rancidity, excessive agitation, homo-
display cases has resulted in the development genization, separation or clarification, and heat
of oxidized (light-induced) flavor in about 80% shock.
of the samples (15). Willey and Duthie (47) reported two types
The 2-thiobarbituric acid test (TBA), which of lipolyzed flavor: (a) "sickening", which
has been used to measure oxidized flavor, is resulted from the mixing of raw and homogen-
ineffective in monitoring the light-activated ized milks, churning, intense agitation via War-
component of the light-induced flavor (20). ing blender or temperature fluctuation; and (b)
Probably the TBA test is effective only in mea- "unclean", resulting from foaming or spontan-
suring the slower developing lipid oxidation eous lipolysis. This report suggests the need for
phase of the reaction. more basic research on the nature of lipolyzed
flavor.
Lipolyzed Flavors
Kuzdzal-Savoie (43) has reviewed the limited
The milk lipase-catalyzed hydrolysis of milk literature on the characteristics and chemistry
fat triglycerides causes a common flavor defect of the lipolyzed flavor defect. Certain fatty
in fluid milk. Historically, several terms have acids are principally responsible for lipolyzed
been used to describe this flavor defect. "Ran- flavors. Scanlan et al. (45) evaluated the effect
cid", the most commonly used, is ambiguous of individual milk samples. Even-numbered
since it is used also to describe the flavor defect fatty acids, butyric, caproic, caprylic, capric,
resulting from lipid oxidation. The descriptive and lauric, were the major flavor contributors.
terms "goaty", "soapy", and "butyric" also None of these compounds exerted a predomi-
have been used. "Bitter", another descriptive nant effect. The addition of fatty acid blends
term, is also ambiguous since bitter flavors may to milk did not impart a typical lipolyzed
result from protein degradation. Also, lipases flavor profile. Scanlan et al. also demonstrated
secreted by microbial contaminants in milk can that long-chain fatty acids C-14 and C-18,
produce flavor defects which usually are accom- contributed little, if any, flavor. Kolar and
panied by bitterness resulting from concurrent Mickle (42) demonstrated that very short-
protein degradation. chain fatty acids, formic, acetic, and pro-
Since lipase-catalyzed hydrolysis of trigly- pionic, do not play a significant role in lipolyzed
cerides commonly is termed "lipolysis", it is flavor defect.
recommended that "lipolyzed flavor" be used Paulet et al. (44) demonstrated that sodium
henceforth to denote the lipase-induced flavor salts of capric or lauric acids imparted a soap-
defects in fluid milk. However, we recognize like taste to water at 25 ppm or greater. The
that controlled lipolysis, which is used to pro- threshold in sucrose solution was 50 ppm and
duce flavors in certain dairy products, is a valu- in saline solution, 100 ppm. Tuckey and Stad-

Journal of Dairy Science VoL 61, No. 7, 1978


858 SHIPE ET AL.

houders (46) reported that lipolyzed flavors can lower and, unless the contamination is appre-
be detected more readily as the test medium ciable, flavor defects may not be evident before
pH is decreased. 10 to 14 days storage. However, in milk which
Kolar and Mickle (42) reported a positive has not been cooled to below 4.4 C immediate-
correlation between the lipolyzed flavor, fat ly after pasteurization or which is stored at 7.2
acidity, and short-chain fatty acid content. to 15.6 C, the psychrotrophic organisms may
Dunkley (38) determined that fat acidity deter- m u l t i p l y rapidly and cause flavor defects in a
minations were helpful in classifying cream as few days (56).
" n o t rancid" but of little value as a measure of Although bacteria may be responsible for a
lipolyzed flavor intensity. Rancidity was esti- number of different flavor defects in both raw
mated more conveniently by changes in surface and pasteurized milk, only those defects de-
tension, but both sampling procedure and milk scribed as acid, malty (51), and fruity (52) can
fat content influenced the method. A series of be recognized as being of microbial origin by
reports concerning causes, detection, and con- sensory perception alone. The microbial genesis
trol of lipolysis were presented at International of these defects and the specific flavor com-
Dairy Federation Symposia in 1974 and 1975 pounds responsible have been demonstrated
(40, 41). unequivocally (53). The flavors described as
stale, barny, unclean, bitter, foreign, rancid,
and feed can be caused by bacteria, but deter-
Microbial Flavor
mination of the actual cause is often difficult
Serious flavor defects in both raw and pas- without bacteriological analyses because of the
teurized milk may result from an accumulation similarity of these flavors to flavors due to
of the products of bacterial metabolism (51, other causes.
52). These are produced by the action of the Acid flavor. Because of the universal distri-
complex enzyme systems of contaminating bution of Streptococcus lactis in the environ-
organisms on the constituents of milk. ment of milk production, most milk is unin-
Most of the common organisms of milk tentionally inoculated with this organism im-
spoilage are believed to have come originally mediately after milking. If the milk is not cool-
from the soil and associated plant life and have ed immediately to 4.4 C or below, it eventually
become indigenous to milk because of the ex- will develop an acid taste due to proliferation
cellence of milk for their growth and persist- of the organism and its conversion of lactose to
ence. Rigorous sanitary procedures are re- lactic acid. The speed with which this defect
quired to limit the initial contamination of milk develops is related to the degree of contamina-
during its production. Rapid cooling to and tion and the temperature history of the milk.
holding at 4.4 C or below to inhibit the multi- Pure lactic acid has a clean acid taste and,
plication of possible contaminants is imperative because of its low vapor pressure, has no odor.
if the flavor quality of milk is to be maintained However, the development of lactic acid in milk
until pasteurization. Proper pasteurization will is accompanied by an odor usually described as
destroy all pathogenic and a very high percent- sour. This is due to the production of very
age of nonpathogenic bacteria in milk. how- small amounts of acetic and propionic acids.
ever, any off-flavors of bacterial origin which Titratable acidity development in milk of .07%
have developed prior to pasteurization are not t o . 10%, calculated as lactic acids, is commonly
affected greatly by this process, nor can they be detectable by most individuals. However, the
removed completely by any of the currently o d o r of the volatile acids may be detected by
employed commercial vacuum treatment pro- experienced individuals when the titratable
CCSSCS. acidity has increased by as little as .01%.
Properly pasteurized milk may be recon- Since S. lactis is destroyed by proper pas-
taminated by subsequent contant with unsani- teurization of milk, acid development in milk
tary equipment. Such contamination often in- subsequent to pasteurization is not likely. How-
cludes psychrotrophic bacteria (48, 50, 54, 55, ever, pasteurization will not improve the flavor
56) which are commonly responsible for of raw milk if acid already has developed.
flavor defects in pasteurized milk. These Malty flavor. A flavor and aroma which in
organisms multiply slowly at 4.4 C or the past has been described as cooked, burnt,

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 61, No. 7, 1978


NOMENCLATURE OF MILK OFF-FLAVORS 859

caramel, "grapenuts", and malty, may develop they are aerobic, multiplication of and flavor
in raw milk as a result of the metabolism of development by psychrotrophic organisms is
Streptococcus lactis subsp, maltigenes (49). enhanced by aeration of milk after pasteuriza-
The term malty seems to have attained priority tion and by storage in partially filled containers
through c o m m o n usage and to most nearly de- in home refrigerators. In agitated milk inocu-
scribe this defect. lated with P. fragi, unclean flavors have been
The responsible organism seems common in noted when the plate counts reached 5.5 × 106
dairy environment in certain geographical areas and fruity aromas at 5 × 10 s per ml.
(e.g. Northeastern U.S.), whereas in milk pro- The fruity aroma produced in milk by P.
duced in other areas (e.g. Pacific Coast states) fragi is due to ethylbutyrate and ethylhexan-
the organism is rare. oate. The organism elaborates a lipase which
The organism enters milk through contact liberates butyric and caproic acids from milk
with improperly sanitized equipment during lipids and an esterase which then esterifies these
production. Multiplication of the organism is acids with ethanol. P. fragi produces only small
favored by delayed cooling and holding of the amounts of ethanol, and it is likely that the
milk at 10 C or above. production of the fruity esters is enhanced in
Except for its ability to produce a detectable milk containing increased amounts of ethanol
malty aroma in milk before any appreciable due to silage feeding or growth of organisms
acid is produced, the organism is identical to which produce either acetaldehyde or ethanol.
S. lactis (49). When grown in sterile milk as a Strains of Bacillus have been isolated from
pure culture, a malty aroma can be detected milk which have characteristics similar to those
over the culture when the standard plate count of some species of Pseudomonas and are able to
reaches 107 to 10 s per ml. The aroma becomes produce similar defects, e.g. fruity flavor. These
more intense as the acidity increases and the sporeforrning organisms may be the cause of
milk coagulates. flavor defects in aseptically-packaged "sterili-
Although the volatile compounds produced zed" milk and fluid milk products.
by S. lactis subsp, maltigenes include a number Unclean, bitter, and putrid flavors. Al-
of aldehydes and alcohols which are derived though unclean and bitter flavors may be due
from amino acids, the characteristic aroma and to other causes, these and putrid flavors often
flavor are due principally to the production of are caused by growth of psychrotrophic organ-
3-methylbutanal from leucine. isms in pasteurized milk. Contamination of
S. lactis subsp, matigenes cells are inacti- milk with these organisms subsequent to pas-
vated by pasteurization, but the volatile pro- teurization occurs through contact with or
ducts of their metabolism are not affected by moisture drip from improperly sanitized sur-
this process nor can they be removed effective- faces. Bacteria responsible for these defects
ly by any of the vacuum treatment processes grow rather slowly at 4.4 C or lower, and the
currently used for improvement of milk flavor. resulting flavor defects usually become evident
Fruity flavor. The aroma which may develop upon extended storage of milk. Such milk may
in pasteurized milk and other processed dairy lack freshness or develop stale flavors prior to
products as a result of the metabolism of development of the more serious flavor defects.
Pseudornonasfragi has been described as straw- Although not yet well-defined, the mech-
berry-like, resembling a May apple, ester-like, anism involved in the development of these de-
and fruity (52). Fruity seems to have priority fects most likely involves limited breakdown of
by virtue of c o m m o n usage and probably is the milk proteins. This results in the formation
related most readily to the defect. of bitter peptides and decomposition of the
P. fragi, a psychrotrophic water and soil amino acids to produce putrid flavors.
form, is distributed widely in dairy environ-
ments. The organism is very heat sensitive, and
Oxidized Flavor
its presence in pasteurized products is due to
post-pasteurization contamination. The organ- This undesirable flavor is often in fluid milk
ism is capable of multiplication at 5 C to 7 C and results from a reaction between molecular
and will outgrow many other species in dairy oxygen and lipids. The polyunsaturated fatty
products during refrigerated storage. Because acids in the phosphatides at the interface of the

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 61, No. 7, 1978


860 SHIPE ET AL.

milk fat globule are considered the precursors down is believed to occur and other flavors
of the flavor (96). develop. Light-induced flavor formation was
Milk varies considerably in its susceptibility discussed in a previous section of this report.
to this defect (59, 61, 89, 96, 102). Milk from The oxidation o f dairy products leads to
some cows developes this defect so quickly and flavors termed oxidized, cardboard, cappy,
without any abuse that it is said to oxidize metallic, tallowy, oily, and fishy. The term
"spontaneously". There is considerable evi- oxidized has been used by some investigators
dence that this "spontaneous" oxidation is to designate a specific flavor, but the commit-
caused by the combined catalytic action of cop- tee recommends its use as a generic term that
per ions and ascorbic acid (99, 101). Some includes all flavors resulting from lipid oxida-
scientists (57, 58) have claimed that the en- tion. The most c o m m o n of the oxidized flavors
zyme xanthine oxidase is involved, but this has is described as cardboard, or cappy; metallic,
been disputed (94, 98). Numerous workers (62, tallowy, oily, and fishy flavors occur less fre-
86 to 88, 99) have studied the role and import- quently.
ance of copper as a pro-oxidant. In the past, The oxidation of milk lipids leads to the for-
milk-handling equipment which contained cop- mation of hydroperoxides, but these com-
per or copper alloys was a significant source of pounds have no flavor. The flavor results from
copper contamination. Contamination (96) or the scission products formed from the hydro-
fortification (95, 104) of milk with iron also peroxides or from the free radicals involved in
can accelerate formation. Milk from cows on the reaction. The presence of hydrocarbons,
dry lot feeding often shows more susceptibility alcohols, acids, aldehydes, and ketones has been
to this defect than that of cows on pasture reported in the scission products (63, 64, 67,
(96). Pasteurization under mild conditions may 68, 70, 71, 72, 73, 78, 90, 92, 93). Of these,
encourage the formation of this flavor, but the carbonyl constituents have generally been
more rigorous pasteurization tends to inhibit its considered the chief culprits (63, 64, 79, 81,
development (60, 100). The inhibitory effect 82, 83, 91). There have been unanimous agree-
of pasteurization is believed to result from the ment that vinylamyl ketone (1-octene-3-one)
development of sulfhydryl compounds during alone imparts a metallic flavor to dairy pro-
heating. Such compounds inhibit oxidations ducts (79, 103, 105), and vinylamyl ketone in
that proceed by a free radical mechanism; how- combination with an aldehyde imparts a card-
ever, the possible masking effect of heated fla- board flavor (79). Aside from these two exam-
vor on oxidized flavor or the interaction of pies, there has been no general agreement about
metal ions with other milk constituents during which compounds cause particular flavors. Pro-
heating cannot be excluded as modes of action. gress in this area has been hampered by the in-
Tryptic action inhibits oxidation (74, 75, 96) stability of many of the compounds that have
presumably by either exposing anti-oxidants been identified and their unavailability com-
such as sulfhydryl groups or by reducing the mercially, especially in the degree of purity re-
activity of pro-oxidants (76, 96). Homogeni- quired.
zation inhibits the development of oxidized
flavor (77, 99), but there is no agreement re-
garding the mechanism. Oxidized flavor devel- Transmitted Flavors
o p m e n t can be inhibited by the addition of cer- Milk flavors may arise by passage of sub-
tain phenolic antioxidants (65, 66, 69, 80, 85) stances from the cow's feed or surroundings
which inhibit free radical oxidations; however, in milk while it is in the udder. This transfer
the addition of such compounds to milk is not may be via the respiratory and/or digestive sys-
legal in the United States. In some states milk tem and blood stream. Such flavors are consid-
may be fortified with ascorbic acid (vitamin C). ered transmitted flavors. Examples of a variety
Although this compound acts at certain concen- of these transmitted flavors have been report-
trations in the presence of copper to stimulate ed (106, 108, 113, 115, 118 to 127); some of
oxidized flavor development, at higher concen- the volatile components associated with these
trations it inhibits flavor formation (84, 96). flavors have been identified (109, 111, 112,
Light promotes the oxidation of milk lipids, 114, 116, 117, 120 to 127). The more volatile
b u t under these conditions some protein break- materials from feeds in the atmosphere sur-

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NOMENCLATURE OF MILK OFF-FLAVORS 861

rounding the cow or in the gas eructated from Barn)/flavor. Milk from cows housed in un-
the cows rumen are inhaled and pass rapidly ventilated areas in which they are forced con-
from lungs to udder (107, 126). Volatile and tinuously to inhale strong odors may have a fla-
nonvolatile flavor materials pass from the di- vor and odor described as barny. The nature of
gestive system to the udder slower. When the the barny flavor has not been characterized or
source of the flavor material is no longer avail- distinguished clearly from cowy flavor.
able to the cow, and the air she inhales is rela-
tively odor free, the volatile flavor materials
Miscellaneous Flavors
accumulated in the milk in the udder gradually
are returned to the blood stream and exhausted The miscellaneous category of flavors in-
via the lungs. cludes those flavors that either cannot be attri-
Feed flavor. When cows are allowed to con- buted to a Specific cause or specifically defined
sume and/or inhale the strong odor of many in sensory terms. In some cases, such as foreign,
common dairy feeds (e.g. silage, green forages, there are a variety of types and causes.
etc.) within 2 to 4 h before milking, the milk Absorbed flavors. The term absorbed is ap-
will have a sweet and aromatic taste, and odor plied to those flavors - usually odors - that are
which may be characteristic of the feed. Many absorbed from the environment (129, 133,
such feeds can be fed immediately after milking 134). In earlier days it was assumed that most
and withheld 4 to 5 h before milking without feed and environmental odors were absorbed by
producing a feed flavor in the milk. Feed flavor milk directly from the air. Now it is known that
problems often are associated with an abrupt such odors are transmitted frequently through
change from dry winter rations to one includ- the cow. However, some volatile substances
ing lush green pasture forage. may be absorbed directly from the air. The evi-
Weed flavor. Numerous species of weeds dence indicates that fat-soluble substances, such
when consumed by the cow impart serious off- as turpentine and other volatile solvents are ab-
flavors to milk. One of the most common and sorbed readily, particularly if the cream has
readily recognized weed flavors is that caused risen. (Homogenized milk and skim milk do not
by the consumption of wild garlic. The flavor readily absorb these odors.) The milking and
components from some weeds are relatively milk storage areas should be kept free of these
nonvolatile and are not exhausted rapidly from odors.
the cows body via the lungs. Therefore, they Astringent flavors. Astringent has been used
may affect the flavor of the milk until they axe to describe a dry puckery, oral sensation which
excreted or otherwise metabolized, a process involves the sense of touch or feel rather than
which may take as long as 12 h. taste. The terms rough, chalky, or powdery also
Cowy flavor. It has been suggested (110) have been used to describe this sensation.
that cows suffering from ketosis or acetone- Astringency has been associated most frequent-
mia produce milk having a cowy-like odor. The ly with milk products that have been processed
odor of the breath of affected cows is similar to at high temperatures (132, 136, 138). In these
that of the milk and may be so strong that it is cases, the astringency has been attributed to
transmitted to the milk of neighboring cows if large protein-salt and salt particles. Astringency
the ventilation of the area is inadequate. The in acidified milk products is attributed to pro-
cowy odor was at one time reputed to be due tein particles with low mineral content. Forti-
to the acetone bodies released into the blood fication of milk with iron salts, especially fer-
stream from incomplete metabolism of fat. rous salts, can produce astringent flavors (130).
However, PollS and Kessler (125) found that Astringency has been reported in fresh raw
acetone in milk also could be affected by ace- milk, but the cause has not been identified.
tone in feeds such as silage. These workers were Bitter flavor. This flavor is caused frequently
unable to find a relationship between the by proteolysis since some peptides and amino
amount of acetone in the milk and intensity of acid elicit bitter flavors (131, 140, 142). In
off-flavor. Suprathreshold amounts of methyl fluid milk, the proteolysis usually is caused by
sulfide also impart a cowy flavor to milk (124). microbial proteases since the activity of the
More work is needed to establish the exact na- natural milk proteases is slight. Bitter flavor
ture of this cowy flavor. may be caused by lipolysis or certain weeds,

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 61, No. 7, 1978


862 SHIPE ET AL.

e.g. bitterweed. An alkaloid may be the cause one cannot say with certainty that this defect
of the bitterweed flavor since a number of alka- is necessarily due to age unless the sample had
loids are bitter. One cannot identify the source been judged when it was fresh.
of bitterness if bitter flavor is the only clue to Salty flavor. This defect is identified easily
the problem. by tasting. It is most commonly in milk from
Cbalky flavor. The term chalky has been cows in late lactation and occasionally from
used to describe a tactual defect which is sim- milk of cows with mastitis.
ilar to the astringent sensation. In fact, some
people have used these terms interchangeably.
Chalky has been described as a sensation sug- PREPARATION
gesting finely-divided insoluble powder parti- OF R E F E R E N C E S T A N D A R D S
cles. Shortly, after the commercial introduction
Considerable research has been undertaken
of homogenized milk, several reports indicated
to develop methods for preparing specific stan-
that homogenized milk had a chalky flavor.
dards of off-flavors. Such standards should aid
Perhaps this chalkiness may have been caused
in the identification of off-flavors and the train-
by improper pasteurization-homogenization
ing of personnel.
procedures since there is no evidence that pro-
In most cases, off-flavors are due to a mix-
per homogenization produces chalkiness.
ture of flavor components which are difficult to
Chemical flavors. Flavors that are caused by duplicate artificially. Although synthetic mix-
contamination of milk with chemicals asso-
tures may simulate natural flavors, they rarely
ciated with cleaners, sanitizers, and disinfect-
duplicate them. It is not necessary to duplicate
ants (128, 135, 139, 141, 144 to 146) are in-
a flavor exactly, but there is a danger of impro-
cluded in this group. Chlorine and iodine com-
per identification if a "nontypical standard" is
pounds are probably the most frequent contam-
used. The methods of preparation cited below
inants (135, 145, 146). Phenolic compounds
are believed to give reasonably typical flavors.
from disinfectants (139) and some weed killers
(141) are also capable of causing this defect.
A chlorophenol flavor has been found in milk Heated Milk Flavors
(144). This flavor has been attributed to pro- These four notes of heated milk can be dem-
ducts of a reaction of chlorine sterilizing re- onstrated as follows:
agents with phenols which were in the water 1. Cooked or sulfurous: Heat milk to 75 C
supply. Chemical flavors may be transferred to for 1 min. The flavor will be more pronounced
milk from returnable plastic milk bottles which if the holding time is increased.
have been misused as containers for gasoline, 2. Heated or rich: Heat milk to 146 C for 4
disinfectants, pesticides, herbicides, etc. s. Refrigerate sample for 2 to 3 days to allow
Flat. This defect is characterized by a lack sulfurous note to dissipate. Alternatively, the
of flavor and a tactual sensation of thinness. heated or rich note can be induced by heating
This sensation can be simulated by diluting milk to 95 C for 10 to 15 min.
milk. Addition of as little as 3 to 5% water can 3. Caramelized: Autoclave whole milk for 15
produce this defect. Some people feel that vac- min in a metal can (300 × 406) at 121 C. (In
uum treatment of milk produces a flat tasting addition to the above treatment it took ap-
product. The flat taste of milk can be reduced proximately 10 min for the pressure in our
by the addition of solids-not-fat (143). autoclave to return to atmospheric. When the
Foreign flavors. Those flavors that cannot be pressure returned to atmospheric, the cans of
identified either by cause or chemical nature milk were removed from the autoclave and
are classified in this group. This group is some- cooled in ice water.)
times referred to as abnormal flavors. 4. Scorched: Put enough milk into a beaker
Lack freshness. This term is used to describe to just cover the bottom and place on a hot
milk that does not have the complete pleasing plate until the water evaporates and the milk
taste of high quality fresh milk. The term residue turns a light golden coior. Fill the beak-
should be used only when a more specific de- er 1/3 full with milk, bring to a boil, and cool
fect cannot be identified. Even fresh milk may in ice water. The resulting milk will have a
lack the full flavor of high quality milk. Thus, strong scorched to b u r n t flavor. This milk can

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 61, No. 7, 1978


NOMENCLATURE OF MILK OFF-FLAVORS 863

be diluted with unheated milk to obtain the de- sists in the reconstitution step, warm milk to
sired intensity. 37 C, and stir vigorously in a Waring blendor
for 1 min.
Light Induced Flavor Directions for tasting samples. Warm sam-
Method A. Sunlight. A light induced flavor ples to room temperature and mix thoroughly
of reasonably high intensity will be produced prior to tasting. Samples may be diluted with
by exposing a quart of freshly-processed pas- clean, fresh whole milk that is free of off-fla-
teurized-homogenized milk in a clear glass con- vors to meet taste requirements. One can pre-
tainer (e.g. a 1 liter Eflenmeyer flask) for 20 pare dilutions that will give specified acid de-
min to m i d d a y sunshine. A reasonable radiant gree values. However, different milks with the
energy would be 1 g cal/cm 2 (1 ly)/min at 7 same acid degree value may have different
to 10 C. (ly = Langley) Store at 4 to 5 C and flavor impacts. (Attempts to prepare typical
note changes in flavor after 24 and 48 h. lipolyzed flavor with fatty acids mixtures were
Method B. Fluorescent light. Expose pas- not successful. Seemingly the added fatty acids
teurized-homogenized milk at 7 C in either a were not distributed between the aqueous and
glass Erlenmeyer flask or an all plastic jug to lipid phases in the same manner as the enzymat-
40-Watt cool white fluorescent lamps (F 40 ically released fatty acids.)
CW) for 12 to 16 h. The illumination should Microbial Milk Flavors
average 1080 lux perpendicular to the light
source at the midpoint of the exposed vertical Acid flavor. Samples of milk having varying
surface. If 2150 lux intensity light is employed, degrees of acid flavor and sour odor may be
the exposure time may be reduced to 4.5 to 6 prepared by allowing acidity to develop in raw
h. Note in both methods, the addition of ascor- milk and making appropriate dilutions with
bic acid (50 mg/liter), minimizes the develop- fresh raw or pasteurized milk. Alternatively
ment o f the oxidized flavor component and en- good quality pasteurized raw milk may be ino-
hances the development of the activated flavor culated with a suitable culture of S. lactis, and
component. the acidity allowed to develop to the desired
level.
Malty flavor. Milk samples for use in training
Lipolyzed Milk Flavor
individuals in recognition of the malty defect
Method A. Warm 200 ml of raw whole milk may be prepared by inoculation with S. lactis
to 37 C and agitate vigorously in a Waring blen- subsp, maltigenes (ATCC 29146) culture or by
dor for 1 min; hold sample at 37 C for 15 min addition of a synthetic flavor preparation. In
or until a characteristic lipolytic flavor devel- the former procedure about 50 ml are removed
ops. Following the holding period, pasteurize from .95 liter of good quality pasteurized-
samples, cool, and hold overnight at 5 C prior homogenized milk to provide suitable head
to tasting. (Samples may be pasteurized by space for aroma build-up. The bottle and re-
heating to 72.2 C for 2 rain.) If the desired in- maining contents are warmed to room tempera-
tensity of off-flavor has developed, the sample ture (21.1 C). The milk is inoculated with 1 ml
may be freeze-dried and canned under 4920 of an active milk culture and then swirled to
k/m 2 pressure (95% nitrogen, 5% hydrogen) or disperse the culture thoroughly. As prepared,
under vacuum. the sample is allowed to stand at room temper-
Method B. Add 20 ml raw milk to 180. ml ature until a malty aroma can be just detected
homogenized milk, mix, and hold overnight at over the milk but before any appreciable acid
5 C, pasteurize prior to tasting. The sample may development (4 to 6 h). Then the milk should
be freeze-dried as under Method A. be cooled rapidly to and held at 2 C to limit
Directions for reconstituting freeze-dried further metabolic activity. Immediately prior to
products. Add contents of can to 125 ml of use in training sessions, the sample, or diluted
room temperature distilled H 2 0 that is free of portions thereof, should be warmed to about
off-flavors, and agitate to reconstitute sam- 15.6 C.
ples. Make samples up to 200 ml with distilled The dominant malty note of the defect can
H20, mix thoroughly, and hold overnight at 5 be simulated in milk by addition of high purity
C prior to tasting. If evidence of clumping per- 3-methylbutanal from slightly above the aver-

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 61, No. 7, 1978


864 SHIPE ET AL.

age organoleptic threshold (.10 ppm) to .5 duced by adding a copper salt to milk. A con-
ppm. A concentration of .34 ppm in milk is venient method is to prepare a stock solution of
recommended for training judges in recognition cuppric chloride, sulfate, or lactate so that 1 ml
of the defect. This may be obtained by diluting of this solution will give a concentratin of 1
30 ~1 of 3-methylbutanal to 100 ml with pure ppm of copper when added to 1 liter of milk.
1,2-propanediol (Matheson Coleman and Bell, The milk is held at 4 to 5 C. Usually milk con-
item no. CQ 2493) and adding 1 ml of this to a taining 1 ppm of copper will develop a card-
.95-liter container of high quality pasteurized board flavor within 24 h, but some samples
homogenized milk from which 46 ml have been may require a longer time and a higher concen-
removed. Such samples may be diluted further tration of copper. The oxidation also can be
(e.g. 1:1) for more experienced judges. Morgan speeded by the addition of about 20 ppm of
(51) described an alternate simple procedure ascorbic acid along with the copper. Different
for preparation of the malty flavor reference intensities of the flavor can be obtained by add-
standard for use when high purity 3-methyl- ing slightly different amounts of copper and
butanal is not available. ascorbic acid and holding for different lengths
Fruity flavor. A typical fruity aroma can be of time.
produced in a good quality pasteurized-homo- Metallic flavor in milk can be simulated by
genized milk that has been fortified with .1 to the addition of 1 to 10 ppb if vinylamyl ketone
.2% ethanol, inoculated with an active culture (1-octene-3-one). The addition of an equal
of P. fragi, and incubated at 7 C for 4 to 6 days. amount of octanal or other saturated aldehyde
Alternatively, milk known to contain excessive along with vinylamyl ketone gives a cardboard
numbers of psychrotrophic organisms may be flavor to milk. These compounds are unstable
heated in flowing steam for 1 h and cooled to but may be preserved as urea complexes (79).
7 C before addition of ethanol and inoculum.
Although milk prepared in this manner will
Transmitted Milk Flavors
have a strong heated odor, this will not inter-
fere with detection of the fruity aroma when it Feed flavor. A very c o m m o n feed flavor may
develops. Samples prepared in this manner can be simulated by adding appropriate quantities
be incubated at 21 C for more rapid develop- of a filtrate from a blended mixture of equal
ment of the typical aroma (48 to 72 h). volumes of silage and water to a liter of milk.
The characteristic fruity aroma can be sim- To produce truly authentic feed flavor,
ulated in milk by addition of 1 ml of a solution one can feed the appropriate feed 2 to 3 h be-
prepared by diluting .0315 g (36 ul) of ethyl fore milking. If the feed (such as fresh corn sil-
butyrate and .0450 g (52 ul) of ethyl hexanoate age) has strong volatile odors, the odor can be
to 100 ml with 1,2-propanediol (Matheson imparted to the milk through the cow's lungs.
Coleman and Bell item no. CQ 2493) to 900 One merely has to place the odoriferous feed in
ml of good flavored homogenized milk. The front of the cow for 15 to 20 rain prior to milk-
purity of the esters employed in this prepara- ing.
tion should be at least 99.9%. As prepared, the Weed flavor. One very typical weed flavor
milk will contain .35 ppm of ethyl butyrate and may be simulated by addition of 1 g of garlic
.50 ppm of ethyl hexanoate, the concentrations salt or an appropriate quantity of fresh garlic
detected in a fully developed milk culture of P. juice to a liter of milk. As with feed flavors,
fragi. Although these concentrations exceed the authentic weed flavors can only be imparted
average threshold concentrations for the indi- to the milk by the cow.
vidual esters or mixtures thereof, samples pre-
pared in this manner have been suitable for
training individuals in recognition of the defect. BIBLIOGRAPHY
Samples can be diluted further for use with ex- This bibliography contains important references
perienced judges. pertaining to the nomenclature and causes of off-
flavors in milk published since 1950. (For articles pub-
lished prior to 1950 see Flavors of Milk. A Review of
Oxidized Flavor Literature, D. R. Strobel, W. G. Bryan, and C. J. Bab-
cock. USDA Bulletin. 1953.) A more inclusive list of
Milk with a cardboard flavor may be pro- references pertaining to off-flavors in milk can be oh-

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 61, No. 7, 1978


N O M E N C L A T U R E OF MILK O F F - F L A V O R S 865

tained from Dairy Research, Inc., 6300 North River 17 Bradfield, A., and A. H. Duthie. 1966. Influence
Road, R o s e m o n t , IL 60018. of container materials in retarding fluorescent
lightqnduced oxidation o f milk. Bull. Vt. Agr.
Exp. Sta. 645.
18 Dimick, P. S. 1973. Effect o f fluorescent light on
HEATED FLAVOR t h e flavor and selected nutrients of h o m o g e n i z e d
1 Ashton, T. R. 1965. Ultra-high temperature pro- milk held in conventional containers. J. Milk
cessing and aseptic packaging in the dairy indus- Food Technol. 36:383.
try. The processing and aseptic packaging of 19 Dunkley, W. L., J. D. Franklin, and R. M. Pang-
sterile milk in the United Kingdom. J. Soc. Dairy born. 1962. Effects o f fluorescent light on flavor,
Technol. 18(2) :65. ascorbic acid and riboflavin in milk. Food Tech-
2 Blankenagel, G., and E. S. Humbert. 1963. Sul- nol. 16:112.
fhydryl groups and cooked flavor in ultra-high- 20 Dunkley, W. L., J. D. Franklin, a n d R. M. Pang-
temperature processed skimmilk. J. Dairy Sci. born. 1962. Influence of homogenization, copper
46:614. and ascorbic acid on light-activated flavor in
3 Boyd, E. N., and I. A. Gould. 1957. Volatile and milk. J. Dairy Sci. 4 5 : 1 0 4 0 .
nonvolatile sulfhydryl c o n t e n t of heated milk 21 Finley, J. W., and W. F. Shipe. 1971. Isolation of
and milk products. J. Dairy Sci. 40:1294. a flavor producing fraction from light exposed
4 Burton, H. 1969. Ultra-high temperature pro- milk. J. Dairy Sci. 54:15.
cessed milk. A review. Dairy Sci. Abstr. 31:287. 22 Hansen, A. P., L. G. Turner, and L. W. Aurand.
5 Cobb, W. Y. 1963. Investigation of t h e carmel- 1975. Fluorescent light-activated flavor in milk.
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6 Hansen, A. P., L. G. Turner, and V. A. Jones. 23 Hedrick, T. L, and Linda Glass. 1975. Chemical
1974. Effect o f ultra-high-temperature steam in- changes in milk during exposure to fluorescent
jection on flavor acceptability of whole and forti- light. J. Milk Food Tech'nol. 38:129.
fied skim milks. J. Dairy Sci. 57:280. 24 Herreid, E. O., B. Ruskin, G. L. Clark, and J. D.
7 Hutton, J. T., and S. Patton. 1952. The origin of Parks. 1952. Ascorbic acid and riboflavin destruc-
sulfhydryl groups in milk proteins and their con- tion and flavor development in milk exposed to
tributions to " c o o k e d " flavor. J. Dairy Sci. 35: s u n in amber, clear, paper~ and r u b y bottles. J.
699. Dairy Sci. 35:772.
8 Scanlan, R. A., R. C. Lindsay, L. M. Libbey, and 25 Patton, S. 1954. The m e c h a n i s m of sunlight
E. A. Day. 1968. Heat-induced volatile com- flavor f o r m a t i o n in milk with special reference to
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9 Shankaranarayana, M. L., B. Raghavan, K. O. 26 Samuelsson, E. G. 1962. Experiments on sunlight
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30 Weinstein, B. R., C. W. Duncan, and G. M. Trout.
1951. The solar-activated flavor of h o m o g e n i z e d
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LIGHT-INDUCED FLAVOR
w h e y c o n s t i t u e n t capable of producing solar acti-
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Journal o f Dairy Science Vol. 61, No. 7, 1978


866 SHIPE ET AL.

solar-activated flavor o f homogenized milk. II1. dairy products and methods for their simulation.
Effect o f dearation, surface area o f fat globules, I. Malty flavor. J. Dairy Sci. 53:270.
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40 International Dairy Federation Symposium.
1974. Proceedings of the Lipolysis IDF Annual OXIDIZED FLAVOR
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Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 61, No. 7, 1978


N O M E N C L A T U R E OF MILK O F F - F L A V O R S 867

68 EI-Negoumy, A. M., M. S. dePuchal, and E. G. to milk for control of oxidized flavor. J. Dairy
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Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 61, No. 7, 1978

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