Professional Documents
Culture Documents
By
Lee Wallender
Updated on 08/24/21
Reviewed by
Deane Biermeier
Cement board, commonly sold under trade names such as Durock, Hardiebacker, and WonderBoard, is now the
standard underlayment used for ceramic, porcelain, or stone tile laid with thinset mortar adhesive. Cement board
is used for most floor tile and has all but replaced plywood and drywall backer materials for wall-tile
applications in wet areas like showers and tub surrounds.
Cement board forms a durable, stable base for tile, and it has no organic materials (unlike drywall, greenboard,
or plywood) so it is not prone to mold, rot, shrinkage, or decomposition due to moisture. Ceramic tile laid over
cement board is one of the most durable floor or wall surfaces you can install.
Flooring: For ceramic tile floors, the cement board usually rests on a plywood subfloor (minimum 5/8-
inch-thick exterior-grade plywood or OSB). If new ceramic tile is being laid on an existing floor, the
cement board can usually be laid right over the existing floor finish, provided the floor is in good shape
and the extra thickness is not a problem. There is no need to install backer board on a concrete substrate
—ceramic tile can be applied right over concrete, provided the surface is flat, smooth, and free of
significant cracks.
Walls: For highly wet areas, such as showers and bathtub surrounds, cement board typically is attached
directly over the wall studs, although the studs may be covered with an intervening moisture membrane.
(Some cement board products may not require the underlying membrane if the seams are properly
waterproofed.) In such wet areas, never install cement board directly over drywall or green board.
Instead, first, remove the existing surface material, then install the cement board over the studs and
membrane, as applicable.
Sizes
Cement board is most commonly sold in 3 x 5-foot sheets and in thicknesses ranging from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch.
A 3 x 5 panel of 1/4-inch cement board weighs about 30 pounds; a 1/2-inch sheet, 36 to 44 pounds. Larger, 4 x
8-foot panels are also available, but their weight makes them hard to manage for DIYers.
Floors: A 1/4-inch minimum thickness is needed, but thicker panels are also fine.
Walls: Use 1/2-inch or 5/8-inch-thick cement board, not 1/4-inch. The extra thickness is needed when
spanning the studs and it provides a solid base for the tile.
Countertops: 1/4-inch, 1/2-inch, or 5/8-inch-thick panels are all suitable for countertops.
You can cut the cement board with a utility knife and a T-square. Score the cement board deeply with two or
three passes with the knife, using the square to ensure a straight line, then snap the waste area of the sheet back
to break the board along the cutting line. Cut the fiberglass mesh along the backside of the board, as applicable,
to complete the cut.
To make round or curved cuts, use a jigsaw with a carbide blade or a drill and a hole saw bit.
Bucket
1/4-inch notched trowel
Drill-driver
T-square
Utility knife
4- or 6-inch drywall knife
Materials
Instructions
Installing Cement Board on Floors
1. Plan the Installation
Make a rough plan for the cement board sheet layout, based on the area to be covered and the size of the
cement board sheets. The joints between the sheets should be offset by the joints in the plywood (or
other) subflooring by at least 8 inches, for maximum floor stiffness. If necessary, plan to start the first
row of sheets with a partial sheet to create the offset.
Place the first sheet over the mortar bed. The rough or embossed surface of the sheet should face up, as
applicable. Allow a 1/4-inch gap between the edges of the sheets and all surrounding walls. Fasten the
sheet with cement board screws, using a drill-driver, making sure the screws are flush with the surface
of the sheet or are slightly recessed. Space the screws 8 inches apart across the entire sheet.
Use only cement board screws and alkali-resistant cement board joint tape. Standard screws and drywall
joint tape will corrode or deteriorate from contact with cement board.
Use the same techniques to apply mortar and lay and fasten the remaining sheets in the first row, spacing
the sheets 1/4 inch apart and leaving a 1/4-inch gap at all walls.
Continue installing sheets to cover the entire area. Remember to offset the joints between the cement
board and any underlying plywood and to gap the cement board sheets by 1/4 inch. Mix fresh mortar
only as it's needed to prevent it from drying before you can use it up.
Apply cement board joint tape to all of the joints between sheets, adhering the tape with its self-adhesive
backing. Mix more thin-set mortar and, using a drywall knife, cover the taped joints with a thin layer,
much as you would do when mudding drywall joints. Tool the mortar with the knife so the tape is
covered and the joints are flat and smooth. Allow the mortar to cure completely, following the
manufacturer's recommended drying time.