Front Draft (Figure 11.22) + Trace the classicefit front six-panel suit jacket foundation (Figure 11.12, page 325). + A=Thewaist point at the center front. + A-B=Measure down". + B-C= Extension amount (ex: 2%"); depending on the design. Measure out. * C-D= Draw a line parallel to the front center line. + C=Breakpoint. + G= Measure 4" toward the side seam and measure up" vertically from the LPS. NOTE: This amount depends on how many buttons the jacket has. This jacket has two buttons but itis double-breasted, so assume that it has three buttons. For a 3- to 4-bittton jacket, measure out 4" and measure up %". Review Chapter 4, Figures 4.37 and 4:38 (pages 98-102). + G-H= Drawa line parallel to the foundation shoulder line. The length is 4" shorter than the foundation shoulder length. + H-T= Measure down 4". © G-= Draw a slightly curved line from the midpoint of G-H to I. * G-J=Collar stand at the shoulder neck; extend ("-1" from point G. J-C=Draw a straight line. Extension (x2%") Figure 11.22 Scanned with CamScannerPeaked Collar and Welt Pockets (Figure 11.23) + Follow the instructions for Chapter 4, “Peaked Collar,” Figures 4.52 through 4.55 (pages 108- 110), éxcept the dimension J-K. 2K =4K5 + KM = Draw a 34" line perperidicula rollline. Labal M instead of L for the Peake lapel. + La Extend 16" from M to cteate'a a peaked shape. ‘Measure over 114" along the liné K-L. + 1-0,N-O = Draw straight lines” ¢ P= Measuire over %" from L, then draw a 1%" ‘straight line from O. + -V = Single-welt pocket; measure in 244" from the center front and up 1%" from the chest line. ‘Dimensions: width: 44"-4%"; depth: 1", + W=Double-welt pocket with flap. Dimensions: width: 6"; the depth: 24". *+ Mark positions of buttonholes (refer to Chapter 7, Pages 176-177). * Separate the collar from the body section. Figure 11.23 Scanned with CamScannerBack Vent Placket (Figure 11.24) assicrit back and side six-panel 5 page 325). * Trace the cl uit jacket foundation (Figure 11.12, + Fordetails of the vent placket, refer to Chapter 6, srVent Placket,” Figure 6.11 (page 156)- ide WL. D lew" HL iyo" Figure 11.24 Sleeve Draft (Figure 11.25) «Trace the classiccfit jacket sleeve sloper (Figure 11.12, page 325). follow the instructions in. + For the sleeve draft, Chapter 5, “Two-Piece Sleeve for Formal Wear,” Figures 5.18 through 5.22 (pages 129-131). ae width? ‘Sleeve hen width “=AWrist Cie-+(4"8") Figure 11.25 Scanned with CamScannerFinished Patterns (Figure 11.26) + Apply the front facing, Refer to Chapter 7, + Mark the grainlines. The dizection of grainlines: “Stitched-On Facings” (Figures 75 and 7.6, pages can vary according to design intention and fabric, 178-179). expecially for the grainlines of flange patterns. + Label the patterns, Figure 1.24 Scanned with CamScanner