ROUSTABOUT TRAINING

COMPETENCY TRAINING WORKBOOK

LEVEL ONE - ROUSTABOUT

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 PART ONE CONTENTS

RIG INDUCTION AND GENERAL SAFETY RULES

FIRE AND EMERGENCY RESPONSE

HOUSEKEEPING

MIXING CHEMICALS

HIGH PRESSURE WASH DOWN SYSTEM

BANKING THE CRANE

HAND HELD VHF RADIOS

WORKING THE CATWALK

BASIC SLINGING

FIRE WATCH

HELICOPTER OPERATIONS

BASIC ROPE WORK

WORKING AT HEIGHTS

WEIGHT TABLES

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 PART TWO CONTENTS

MANUAL OR KINETIC LIFTING

HAND TOOLS

SUB'S

CONTAINERS

ROPE WORK

CASING

TUBULARS (IDENTIFICATION)

TUBULARS (HANDLING EQUIPMENT)

INTRODUCTION TO THE DRILL FLOOR

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 PART THREE CONTENTS

FORKLIFT TRUCK

TUBULARS (CARE)

DRILLING TOOLS

ADVANCED SLINGING

SECURING DECKS

POWER TOOLS

ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS

TIME OUT FOR SAFETY AND SMART PROCESS

JOB RISK ASSESSMENT AND PERMIT TO WORK

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RIG INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SAFETY RULES

As a Roustabout on this installation you will be required to attend a Pre-Tour Safety Meeting
each day. This is held before work and will start approximately 30 minutes before you go on
tour. In addition to this a Weekly Safety Meeting is held, normally on a Sunday after work. You
will be told where this is

Emergency Drills are held weekly and you will be told of these and your duties before hand. If
you have any questions on any subject or anything regarding Safety that you are not happy with
do not hesitate to ask your Immediate Supervisor/Crane Operator for clarification.

Upon you arrival at the Rig/Installation you will have been shown various things - Lifeboats,
Muster Points, Liferafts etc. It is important that you remember them.
YOU MAY NEED THEM!!

THERE ARE ALSO SOME GENERAL SAFETY RULES THAT EVERYONE ON THE RIG
MUST FOLLOW.

1/ Hard Hat, Boots, Gloves and Safety Glasses must be worn whenever you leave the
accommodation. (Other PPE as required)

2/ Smoking only in the designated areas.

3/ Do not walk under Crane Loads.

4/ Report anything that you think may be wrong or faulty to someone immediately.

5/ Do not leave doors open behind you. Close all doors – it is part of the fire and gas control
as well as watertight integrity.

6/ Observe all warning signs and listen out for any announcements on the P.A.

7/ Report any accidents/injuries or near misses immediately.

8/ The obligation to call a Time Out For Safety.

At all times be aware of any Hazardous or potentially Hazardous situations that could develop
and make sure your stay on the rig is a safe one.

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 FIRE AND EMERGENCY RESPONSE

You and your crew are part of the Emergency Response team and as such you will be called
upon in the following situations:-

FIRE You will be part of a Hose Team and will be directed by your Crane
Operator or the On Scene Commander.

MAN OVERBOARD. For this you may be required to man a rescue craft (Lifeboat) or
assist in spotting for the Stand-by Boat.

GAS EMERGENCIES Depending on the nature of the gas and the situation you will be
mustered in a Safe Location and given additional instructions.

ABANDONMENT You may also be used in any situation involving Abandonment of the
rig. This will be at the discretion of the Offshore Installation
Manager/Man In Charge (OIM/MIC)

There are a number of station bills situated around the rig and they will give all the information
you require about emergency alarms and what your response to these should be. Make it one of
your first priorities to read the Station Bills. As always, if you are not sure about anything they
contain ask your Supervisor.

As you go about your work on the rig, make a note of where emergency gear such as Fire
Hydrants, Fire Boxes, Lifebelts and Breathing Apparatus are located. You should pay particular
attention to where the Fire Extinguishers are, how to identify different types and how to operate
them.

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 HOUSEKEEPING

As a Roustabout you are going to spend a good deal of your time involved in the upkeep of the
Rigs appearance. Apart from keeping the rig in good condition it also makes for a safer working
environment.

Clean up oil spills immediately and report to your Supervisor so he can determine if the situation
may recur.

Keep Walkways Clear.

Don't block off any exit, designated walkways or Firefighting Equipment.

Stow away lifting equipment in proper location immediately after use.

Pick up rubbish that is lying about and dispose of in the correct rubbish skips.

Check drains are clear before you start cleaning.

Stow away unwanted equipment.

Observe safe working procedures for the use of High Pressure Wash Down Guns and the use of
Detergents.

Don't clean around objects that are easily moved. (move them and clean properly)

Clean area twice if necessary.

Make sure you clean into the corners where dirt accumulates.

Get rid of excess water.

Stow away cleaning gear when finished.

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 MIXING CHEMICALS

One of the first job's you will encounter is mixing chemicals. The Sack Store is a Hazardous
Area so be alert and concentrate on the job you have to do. The first step is to report to the
Derrickman or his Assistant and find out what he requires of you. Once this has been done you
must put on the correct Safety Equipment. If you do not know the location of the safety locker,
then ask.

IN THE SAFETY LOCKER, YOU WILL FIND THE FOLLOWING ITEMS:-

Safety Goggles and Face Visor

Full Face Mask
Dust Mask and Refills
Barrier Cream
Rubber Apron
Rubber Gloves and Gauntlets.

There is also an eye bath and a shower located near the mixing area, you must locate these before
you begin. A COSHH assessment will have been carried out for all chemicals in use on the rig.
You should check this on the chemical data sheet for anything you are going to mix prior to
starting. This will detail hazards involved and what precautions must be taken. Do not take any
short cuts in this phase of the job – its not worth the potential harm.

You will not be allowed to drive the Forklift until you have, as a minimum, passed the Aban in-
house course, so someone will be detailed to do this training with you. In some countries and by
contract, only persons who have been certified by a Third Party Training school are allowed to
operate the forklift.
When you start to mix the product ensure that you understand and follow the instructions given
you with regard to timing or pressures depending on the chemical being mixed. If at any time
you are required to leave the mixing hopper you should close the loading valve. This is also the
case if the mud starts to back up or the hopper becomes blocked. If the hopper does block you
should also inform the Derrickman at once.

As you are mixing make sure you keep the area clear by putting the empty sacks into a rubbish
bag or by simply folding them and storing them neatly away from your Work Area.

When the mix is over your first task should then be to clean the mixing area and clean and store
the safety equipment. Remember, however, that you are still working with chemicals and
therefore still require the proper Safety Equipment.

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 HIGH PRESSURE WASH DOWN SYSTEMS

There is a High Pressure Wash Down System in use of this installation, which can be a great
help in Good House Keeping. However it is also, potentially, a very dangerous piece of
equipment. It usually consists of a ring main and rubber hoses which connect to a lance or gun.
Some installations have different systems At the nozzle of the gun a pressure of around 200 psi is
produced. This is sufficient to penetrate the skin even through your coveralls or boots. It is
important therefore to follow the Safety Procedures at all times when using this equipment.

There are written procedures covering the use of this equipment and you are required to read and
sign them, in this paragraph they are outlined:-

1/ Always check the hose and gun are in good working order before you begin.

2/ Never use faulty or leaking hoses or guns.

3/ You must always wear the proper safety goggles.

4/ Never point the gun at anyone or any part of your body. DO NOT use the gun to wash-
down boots or coveralls.

5/ Ensure that the pressure is bled from the gun before you connect or disconnect from the
ring main/system.

6/ Do not drop the gun on the deck, this causes damage to the gun and the connections.

7/ Never fool around when operating this equipment.

8/ Store the hoses and gun away when you have finished, do not leave them to create a
tripping hazard.

To recap, this can be a dangerous piece of equipment. Operate it safely at all times and it will
make your job a lot easier. Remember also that when you are washing down keep the water
away from all electrical boxes and sockets, fire and gas detector heads can also be damaged by
water.

There are also precautions you should take when working with Detergents (Soap) which are
usually used in conjunction with the High Pressure Washdown System. Barrier Cream, Rubber
Gloves and Safety Goggles should be worn, the detergent can burn you if it is in high
concentrations and can also aggravate and cause dermatological problems, barrier cream should
be applied to face, neck and arms and is available. The Detergent is a Chemical Substance and
should be treated as any other Hazardous Material it's not like regular washing-up liquids (e.g.
Fairy Liquid!)

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 SIGNALLING/BANKING THE CRANE

There are many positions on the rig where the Crane Operator is unsighted or partially sighted
and this is where a good Banksman comes into his own. To realise the problems that can be
encountered is half the battle, actually signalling the Crane is the other.

Banking the Crane is a very responsible job, you are controlling the lifting operation and this is
made all the more important when the Crane Operator cannot see what is being lifted.

So what can we do to make the operation as safe as possible?

Obviously, the Banksman and the Crane Operator should pre-plan the operation and be familiar
with the signals that are to be used. (Fig1.1)

Use more than one Banksman if necessary but have only one man to signal the crane. You
sometimes come across situations out here where four of five men are waving their hands about,
each giving a different signal. When this situation occurs the Crane Operator will stop and
explain the confusion being created - so one dedicated Banksman is a good idea.

The Crane Operator will obey a STOP signal given by anyone.

A dedicated Banksman is there only to signal the Crane, nothing else. Do not be tempted to lend
a helping hand when the operation is underway. The dedicated Banksman is identified by
wearing vest which differentiates him from everyone else.

Stand as close to the load as is safe and in clear sight of the Crane Operator. If you are signalling
the crane, and nothing appears to be happening, it could be that you have moved your position
and your signals are not being understood. It could be that someone has moved in front of you
and blocked your signal or it could be that the Crane Operator has spotted a potential Hazardous
Situation or has been given a Stop command from someone else.

Pay attention to the load and its path at all times. Be especially aware of personnel in the vicinity
who are not involved in the operation, they may not be aware of your intentions, tell them to get
out of the way, before, not during the lift. Where practical, barrier off areas where the crane is
working to prevent

Do not take your eyes off the load at any time when you are banking the crane, concentrate on
your side of the job. If you let yourself be distracted from the job at hand, the load could get
caught up and it could spell disaster.

An important point to remember when banking the crane and the Crane Operator is unsighted is
that it is you that is controlling the speed at which the load is being lifted. It may be the Crane
Operator that is pulling the levers but it is you who is in control, so, if the load is moving too fast,
slow it down, if it is moving too slow, speed it up.

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When you are initially picking up the load, stop the crane when the slack has been taken up on
the slings, check everything is in order (including any loose equipment which could be potential
dropped objects) then proceed with the lift. The last thing the Crane Operator wants is for you to
signal him up and for him to snatch the load, a practice that should be avoided at all costs.

Remember that the Crane moves in an arc, it may be necessary to boom the Crane as it is
slewing.

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 FIG 1.1 Banksman Signals

The Distance between yourself and the Crane is another factor to consider. Make your signals as
clear as possible, exaggerated signals are always best. Keep your hands away from your body, if
your gloves are dirty, take them off, remember that at night, visibility is reduced so every effort
you make to improve communications is welcomed. The rig should be equipped with the
battery-powered/illuminated Banksman’s vests.

Generally speaking, the Banksman controls the initial lifting and the final positioning of the load,
stay alert and take care of your side of the job.

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 BANKING THE CRANE
(HAND HELD VHF RADIOS)

It is important to treat radios with the greatest respect, they can be a great help to us in our work.
When you first issue out a radio, test it against the Crane Radio that you are going to be working
with. If for any reason the signal is not received or is weak, go no further, change it for another
radio. Always heck that you are on the same channel as the Crane.
A holster for the radio should be employed, if there is a chance of the Radio getting wet,
waterproof covers are available.

As Radios are an item of Electronic Hardware they cannot always be relied upon to do their job
(they break down occasionally) so they must not be regarded as the soul method of
communication, you must have someone in visual contact with the Crane as well.

It is better to remove your gloves when using a Radio ,as this will help you when depressing the
transmitter button if you have to give a Stop command and your finger isn't on the button it may
take a few extra seconds to relay your command.

When giving instructions to the Crane Operator keep your message clear and simple. Try your
best to keep the Radio out of the wind as this is a major cause of bad communications.

Call the Crane Operator by his first name and which crane he is using. There may be another rig
in the area working on the same channel and this helps eliminate any confusion that may arise.
i.e. "George, Port Crane, Down easy on your line" or "Rig Port Crane, Down easy on your line"
Remember when instructing the crane to slew, tell the Operator to slew to his left or right not
yours.

When relying on radios to signal the crane the Banksman should continue talking to the crane
operator. When the Banksman stops talking, the crane operator should stop moving the load. (It
may be the radio has failed)

Change the battery pack at regular intervals if in prolonged use and don't forget to reset the radio.
Report any defects found so something can be done about it.

Hand your Radio back in and sign it off, before you finish shift. This not only makes sure that
none of the Radios go missing but also, your relief, if the job is continuing, will sign out a fresh
radio in good condition.

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 WORKING THE CATWALK

As one of the most Hazardous Areas on the rig, the Catwalk can become a very busy place, this
is especially true when picking up or laying down tubulars. Before any operation of that nature
takes place a Pre-Job/Task Safety Meeting will be held to highlight any potential Hazards and to
pre-plan the operation discussing the JRA. Any questions you may have should be asked at this
time.

When the operation begins there are a number of safety and procedural points that must be
followed throughout the operation and are as follows:-

1/ Have all the tools you will require to hand before you begin. Always use tag lines when
lifting the tubulars to or from the catwalk. Ensure that it is safe and there is room to land
the load. Don't overload the catwalk as this will give you problems when the Drill Floor
try to pick up a joint. When you land any tubulars on the Catwalk make sure that you
land it on a piece of timber. This will enable you to fit a lifting cap more easily and will
ensure the slings are not damaged.

2/ Do not go under the load as it is being lifted onto or from the Catwalk. When it lands
remember the bundle may spread or the joint may roll towards you.

3/ Whether you are using a lifting cap, pick up elevators or a sling to move the joint to the
drill floor, you must ensure that it is securely attached and will not come off on it's way
to the floor. Lifting caps should be hammered up, slings must be double wrapped to
make sure they have gripped the load and elevators must be properly latched and the
safety pin inserted. If lifting caps are being used, remove and store the protectors where
they will not be lost, they will be needed again when the pipe is laid down.

4/ As the load starts to move up or the load comes from the drill floor onto the V-Door, you
must be at the side of the Catwalk and you should remain there until the load is on the
drill floor or it has been laid out. During this time watch the load and be ready to move
away should anything unforeseen happen. If you are required to assist the load sliding
"STOP" the floor tugger before you move on to the catwalk.

5/ It may be necessary to move tubulars immediately they have been laid down, so make
sure the man on the drill floor tugger knows you are working on the Catwalk. Also
ensure that a protector is fitted to every joint as it is laid down, do not move the pipe
without them.

6/ Always have an escape route planned if anything goes wrong. Keep the area clear of
slings, timber, protectors etc. This will ensure that you have a clear escape route should
you need it.

If during any operations, you see something wrong you should stop the job (TOFS) and solve the
problem before it can develop into something more serious. If you see any other personnel in the
area that are not connected with your task, warn them and make sure they know of the
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dangers. You may even have to ask them to move away from the area of work. If the need
arises and you need to go across the Catwalk, then look first to ensure that there is nothing
moving on the V-Door. This applies at all times during your shift. As we have already said this
is one of the most Hazardous Areas that you will work in and you will need to be alert and
concentrate on the job in hand. If you follow the procedures, and the advice of the other crew
members you will eliminate the vast majority of the dangers. The most important thing as with
all the tasks you will be asked to undertake is to work safely, everything else must take second
place.

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 BASIC SLINGING

As the new member of the crew you will not, under normal circumstances, be asked to act as a
Banksman. There are however some occasions when you may have to. If so, remember what
you were taught and put it into practice. It is far more likely, however, that you will sling the
load.

In this section we will look at the basic things you will need to know when you sling a load, the
main headings that we will deal with are:-

Weights
Slings
Slinging the Load
Making the Lift
Safe Work Procedures

As you gain experience you will be taught the more advanced methods and the finer points
involved in the job.

WEIGHTS

The first thing we have to do is establish the weight of the load to be lifted. Unless you have
accurate information your estimate could be wrong, you can obtain this information from a
number of sources, your Crane Operator, or the experienced members of your crew. There are
also tables at the back of this book Fig1.32) which will give the weights of most tubulars and the
number of joints you can lift with different size slings. Learn them, one day you will have to
help a new crew member. If the weight you have calculated is at or near the safe working load
(S.W.L) of a particular sling then go for a heavier sling. Always give yourself plenty of margin
for error.

Containers, baskets and lifts other than tubulars will have the S.W.L painted or stamped on them.
Always check for this as it may be too heavy for the whip line of the crane. If this is the case
then signal for the main block.

SLINGS

Now we know what weight we have to lift we must select the correct sling or slings for the job.
You must only use slings that have the correct colour code painted on the ferrule, (this is the
metal band near the end of the sling). Also on the Ferrule you will find the S.W.L of that sling,
and the sling must have both of these. If it does not, then do not use it. Remember the colour
code will be changed regularly so always know the colour in use.

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With the correct colour code established you should now check the sling for damage. You
should look for broken wires, severe rust, crushed or kinked strands and any opening of the eye
of the sling.

INSPECTING FOR DAMAGE

It is very important to check the lifting gear for damage before any lift takes place. There are a
multitude of reasons why a sling, rope, hook or shackle may have been damaged. There are also
various degree's and type of damage, but the common rule to them all is if it is damaged don't use
it. There are some examples of the more common signs of wear or damage on the following
pages.

Examples of Socket Damage

Figures No. 1.2 to 1.5 illustrates the things to look for on the ferrules or socket ends.

Figure1.2
Broken outer and inner wires showing fatigue fractures at the entry of the ferrule,
the wire is then open to rapid corrosion damage.

Figure1.3
Splits in conical Talurit ferrule caused by a tearing action as a result of the rope
being pulled at an angle.

Figure1.4.
Broken strands and wires at the neck of superlok shank. This failure is the result
of fatigue.

Figure1.5
An example of a socket draw. The probable causes being the bore profile of the
socket being the wrong size, the wrong technique used to attach the socket or
overloading the socket.

Examples of Rope Damage

Figure 1.6
This gives examples and probable causes of damage to ropes or slings.

Remember if there is the slightest doubt in your mind about the lifting gear you must not use it.
Report it and replace it.
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Page 18 of 92
 FIG1.2
FIG1.3 FIG1.4

FIG 1.5

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 Fig 1.6

EXAMPLES OF ROPE DAMAGE

Mechanical damage due to rope movement

over sharp edge projection whilst under load

Localised wear due to abrasion on

supporting structure. Vibration of rope
between drum and jib head sheave.

Typical example of localised wear and

deformation created at a previously kinked
portion of rope

Corrosion of rope due to prolonged immersion in

water or chemically treated water (salty)

Severe wear associated with high tread pressure.

Protrusion of fibre main core

NEVER USE A DAMAGED SLING.

IF YOU DO YOU ARE PUTTING YOURSELF AND YOUR WORKMATES AT RISK!!

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SLINGING THE LOAD

Having completed the first two stages you are now ready to sling the load, we will sub-divide
this stage into two groups.

TUBULARS and OTHER LIFTS

TUBULARS

There are a number of things you must do when bundling tubulars:

1/ Ensure that all the thread protector's are securely on the pipe. (If pipe is open-ended
ensure that there are no potential dropped object items – wood, bars, tools etc.)

2/ Always double wrap the sling's. (see Fig 1.7)

3/ Space the slings evenly, this will ensure a level lift and will give a good angle of lift to
the spreaders. (the angle must not exceed 90 degrees)

4/ Step back and allow the crane to take the weight of the load.

5/ Attach your tag lines, (always use two tag lines) make sure they are long enough to
enable you to keep hold of them until the lift is over. You control the lift with them so
never forget about them. (see Fig 1.8) You should have a hook unit to allow retrieval of
the tag line avoiding the need to go under the load.

OTHER LIFTS (PRE-SLUNG)

These include containers, baskets, tanks, skips etc. Although these items already have their own
lifting gear you should always check for any damage and make sure that the slings are not
twisted. If the load has doors ensure they are securely closed before you do the lift. Check that
any shackles have their safety pins installed. Ensure shackles and slings are not lying twisted
before pick-up as the load may cause them to twist with weight and get damaged.

OTHER LIFTS (UN-SLUNG)

Included in this category are drilling tools, boxes, mechanical equipment, drums, reels of wire or
cable etc. For these you may need lifting caps or shackles or just slings. If you are using caps or
shackles you will have to make sure that they are tight and will not unscrew during the lift.
Never choke a sling on a cap or shackle as it will damage the sling. If you only require slings do
not let the slings crush or damage the lift and make sure that the sling is protected from any sharp
edges. Remember if you choke slings they will grip the load tightly and this can damage fragile
equipment.

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 Fig 1.7

SLINGING PROCEDURE FOR SMALL BORE TUBES

NB:- Whenever possible, tubing should be loaded to aid transportation in a suitable basket or
half-height.

THE NEED FOR DOUBLE WRAPPING

Double wrap will put 3600 pressure and hold

tubes in a safe bundle

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 Fig1.8

TAG LINES

When tag lines are used the line must be attached to the item being lifted and not to the lifting
gear.

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Page 24 of 92
MAKING THE LIFT

When you are sure that everything is in order with the slings and the tag lines, you must now
take up a safe position. This means move away from the load a short way or in the case of
tubulars go to the end of the pipe. The reason for this is to give yourself space to avoid being hit
or trapped by the load if it should unexpectedly swing. Once you are in this safe position then
the lift can begin. Before any lift takes place make sure that the area where the load is to be
landed. is free of any obstacles. This includes removing slings, cables, hoses etc. from the deck.
Also warn personnel who may be in the way of the load.

1/ Look up and make sure that the tip of the crane boom is directly above the load.

2/ Lift the load to about a foot off the deck and visually re-check that the load is level and
the slings are all right. If you need to make any alterations to the load then it must be
lowered back to the deck before you move from your safe position. This routine must be
repeated until you are satisfied that the load is safe to move.

3/ The Banksman will now signal the crane and the lift will continue. From this time until
the load is landed control and guide the load with the tag lines.

4/ At no time during the lift is it permitted to walk under the load, find another route. If
anyone is in the path of the load then it is your responsibility to warn them and get them
to move. If this cannot be done quickly then hold the load and give them time to move.

5/ When the load is directly over it's new position the Banksman will signal the crane to
lower the load.

6/ As the load is lowered, use the tag lines to stop any swing or rotation of the load. Do not
get too close, always have enough space for yourself to move away quickly if you need
to. Do not get into a bad position where you can be trapped if the load swings towards
you. Aban policy requires loads to be landed hands-free, no touching the load until its
landed.

7/ When the load has landed make sure that it is secure before the crane lowers the hook.

8/ When you are ready get the hook lowered and disconnect the crane. Make sure you keep
hold of the hook or hooks until they have been raised to arms length above your head.
This will prevent them swinging back and hitting anyone.

If at any time during the operation something unforeseen happens then stop the crane and rectify
the problem. Safety is always important.

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SAFE WORK PROCEDURES

By now you should have the basic knowledge required to safely complete a simple lift. In this
section we will summarise the safety rules and the good work practices that you should strive to
achieve.

KNOW THE WEIGHT OF THE LOAD.

USE CORRECT SLINGS. (colour code and S.W.L)

ALWAYS DOUBLE WRAP TUBULARS.

TAKE UP A SAFE POSITION BEFORE LIFTING.

ALWAYS USE TAG LINES.

DO NOT WALK UNDER A LOAD.

MAKE SURE YOUR LANDING AREA AND THE PATH OF THE LOAD IS CLEAR.

DO NOT GET INTO DANGEROUS POSITIONS. GIVE YOURSELF ROOM TO GET

AWAY.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO GRAB THE LOAD AS IT IS BEING LANDED.

KEEP HOLD OF THE HOOKS UNTIL THEY ARE CLEAR OF YOU.

THE BANKSMAN WILL HAVE NO OTHER DUTIES WHEN SIGNALLING THE CRANE.
HE DOES NOT HELP LAND THE LOAD.

If you follow these guidelines then you will have taken another step towards becoming a safe and
competent worker. It will also make your job that bit easier.

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 FIRE WATCH

There is a lot more to firewatching than meets the eye, an easy number perhaps, but it is still a
responsible job that should be taken seriously.

When you first report to the welder, find out first off, where he is going to be working, then go
and survey the area for possible hazards.

Check all round the area, check behind/under/on top/below where the welder will be working.

Clean the area if necessary, lay down a fire blanket, erect barriers.

Locate the nearest hose reel station.

Locate the nearest telephone.

Locate the nearest manual call point for the general alarm.

You never know when you might need the above and it is better to know in advance.

Have the correct extinguishers agent to hand, the welders usually have a selection of
extinguishers for fire watching duties only.

A gas detector may also be required under certain circumstances, so ask the welder if his permit
requires one.

Wear the proper eye protection, welders goggles are best but in any event, shield your eyes.

Warn other personnel who may enter the area that the welder is working here and they should
shield their eyes or find another route.

Be aware of heat transference when the welder is cutting/welding. Continually check the area.

Stop the welder from working if a gas alarm sounds, he may not be able to hear for the noise he
is making.

Stay alert throughout the operation, it is an easy number only if you are not doing your job.

Aban has an On the Job training package for Fire watchers. You must pass this before being
allowed to act as firewatch.

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 HELICOPTER OPERATIONS

On this installation you may be required to assist in Helicopter Operations as a member of the
Helideck crew. Your duties and your station will be given to you by the Helicopter Landing
Officer (H.L.O) before any operations commence.

You will be called to the Helicopter Waiting Area 15 - 30 minutes or more before any aircraft is
due to land so then is the time to ask any questions you may have, do not wait until the Aircraft
is about to land.

As with every task you do there are basic safety rules which must be observed during Helicopter
operations:

OBEY ALL INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE H.L.O

ENSURE THAT YOU KNOW HOW TO OPERATE THE FIRE AND CRASH EQUIPMENT.

STAY CLEAR OF THE TAIL ROTOR.

ONLY APPROACH AN AIRCRAFT FROM A SAFE ANGLE, THESE MAY DIFFER FOR
DIFFERENT AIRCRAFT.

ONLY OPERATE FIRE OR OTHER EQUIPMENT ON THE INSTRUCTIONS OF THE

H.L.O, THE PILOT OR SENIOR PERSONNEL IN ATTENDANCE.

ON LANDING AND TAKE OFF ALWAYS STAY BELOW THE LEVEL OF THE
HELIDECK OR TAKE UP A POSITION BEHIND A SOLID STRUCTURE. THIS WILL
PROTECT YOU FROM ANY FLYING DEBRIS IN THE EVENT OF A CRASH.

IF YOU SEE SOMETHING UNUSUAL REPORT IT IMMEDIATELY.

BE ALERT AT ALL TIMES DURING HELICOPTER OPERATIONS.

Helicopter operations must always be carried out safely and efficiently and you will be a key
factor in achieving this. Remember that your actions or the lack of them can affect people’s
safety, including your own.

Page 28 of 92
 BASIC ROPE WORK

When you first start working offshore, probably the only contact you will make with a piece of
rope, will be if you tie a tag line or if you tie something down in a container. It is not until you
progress further that you will appreciate just how useful, a handful of good recognised knots can
be to you.

Nobody expects you to become a seaman overnight, it is not necessary to know a great number
of knots. A few, such as the bowline, sheet bend and clove hitch are sufficient to cope
confidentially with any situation. The most important thing is to know how to tie them quickly
and properly and with the minimum number of movements. The only way to gain the necessary
confidence is to practice the knots over and over again until the movements become completely
automatic and instinctive. In certain circumstances hesitation or doubt can make the knot an
enemy or at least a dangerous complication instead of a safety factor.

The more you practice, the better you will get, so the emphasis is on you.

Bowline: A Loop that won't slip and is easy to untie even after a lot of weight
has been applied. Used for putting an eye in the end of a rope.

Clove Hitch: All purpose knot, good for tying off a hose or suchlike. Although it
can jam up and become difficult to remove, in some circumstances
that is not a bad thing.

Rolling Hitch: Non Slip qualities are excellent for tying off hoses but watch which
way you put your turns on. There are two different ways this one can
be used.

Sheet Bend: For Joining ropes of unequal diameters. Can be tied single or
double. Make sure you use the thickest rope to make the eye with
and use the thinner rope to tie the knot. It can also be used to join
ropes of the same diameter with equally good results. Easy to untie
if a lot of weight has been applied.

The following pages are to help you learn these basic knots. Have your Crane Operator show
you the best method and use the diagrams to fall back on.

Page 29 of 92
BOWLINE (Loop Method)

The bowline is the knot best known to sailors and is the most important in seamanship. There are
numerous advantages to using this knot as it does not slip, come loose, or jam, and it is not
difficult to untie when the rope is under strain. The bowline is normally used to fix a rope to an
object or to form a fixed loop at the end of the rope.

Fig 1.8 Fig 1.9

Method
Form a turn in the standing part (1.8), and insert the end into it from below (1.9). Pass the end
behind the standing part and bring it back through the turn (1.10) (1.11). Hold the end and the
loop with the right hand and pull the standing part to tighten the knot (1.12) (1.13).

Fig 1.10 Fig 1.11

Fig 1.12 Fig 1.13

Page 30 of 92
Page 31 of 92
Slipped Bowline

This is made by using a bight for the final tuck.

Tied this way the knot is easy to untie if it is under
great strain.

Fig 1.14

CLOVE HITCH
Tied around a post:
It is a safe knot which is easy to make. Used in small or medium diameter rope for mooring.

Fig 1.15 Fig 1.16

Fig 1.17 Fig 1.18

Page 32 of 92
Slipped Clove Hitch (Fig 1.19)
This bight serves to undo the knot quickly when the rope is under strain

Fig 1.19 Fig 1.20

Double Clove Hitch (Fig 1.20)

To make this knot you need only make an extra turn around the post.

ROLLING HITCH

The rolling hitch is the best knot for bending a small rope to a larger one under strain. The knot
can be slid along the heavier rope when perpendicular but tightens with lateral strain. Unties
easily, therefore good for tag lines.

Fig 1.21 Fig 1.22

Page 33 of 92
 Fig 1.23 Fig 1.24

Slipped Rolling Hitch (Fig 1.25) Fig 1.25

The hitch is slipped to make the knot easier to untie.

This is done by making the final tuck with a bight
instead of the end.

SHEET BEND

This knot is good for joining two ropes of different diameters and types. It is also easily untied.

Fig 1.26 Fig 1.27

Page 34 of 92
Page 35 of 92
 Fig 1.28 Fig 1.29

Slipped Sheet Bend Fig 1.30

The slipped knot is easier to untie when under
heavy strain (Fig 1.30).

Fig 1.31
Double or Triple Sheet Bend
Doubling the knot makes it more secure (1.31).

Page 36 of 92
 WORKING AT HEIGHTS

When you first start offshore you are not going to be given a job on your own that could be
classed as hazardous, that will be left to the more experienced men that are experienced in the
operation. However, you may be called upon to assist them in their duties. Working at heights is
one such job and understanding the procedures that have to be followed will eliminate the risk
factor.

Aban’s safety policy siss that Safety Harnesses with an appropriate lanyard/line should be worn
by all personnel working at an elevation of 6ft or more".

Before you start work aloft, erect Safety Barriers around the area below where you are working
and make a P.A. Announcement to warn others. Tie off all tools you are going to be working
with and also any equipment you are working on that may come loose and fall. If the job is up
the derrick then the derrick tool register will have to be completed.

Before you think about going to height you have to check out your safety harness and tail line
thoroughly. Check this by giving it a visual inspection, check the shoulder straps by giving them
a good tug. Check the stitching is in good condition and the belt has no obvious signs of
deterioration. Check the adjustable strap is secure and altered to give a comfortable fit. Check
date of manufacture against the metal tab on waist strap. Check the anchor ring stitching.

Check the full length of the Safety Line, bending it to see if it exposes any broken or open
sections. Pay particular attention to the end fittings.

Check the clip on the end, make sure the latch is free and will close without any problems.
Latches should be dual/triple action

If you are going to be using an inertia reel, run out its full length of wire and inspect as before,
give a sharp pull on the wire to make sure it locks up as it should.

Always attach you harness to a suitable, anchor point (5000lb SWL) as high above your head as
practical.

Take two safety lines with you, if you need to change your position. That way there can always
be one line attached.

When you have finished the work make sure you leave the area in a safe condition. Remove any
safety barriers you may have erected. Return your harness and line to it's storage area. If you
have been using a fixed inertia reel, attach a length of rope to the end, retract it fully and tie the
rope to a suitable point for easy recovery. Report any defects found on any of the Safety
Equipment immediately to your Supervisor, don't leave it to the next man to do the job to find
out at his expense.

Page 37 of 92
 Fig 1.32
WEIGHT TABLES
DRILL COLLARS

SIZE APPROX. WEIGHT JOINTS PER JOINTS PER BUNDLE

PER JOINT BUNDLE (3 ton slings)
(5 ton slings)
9 1/2" 6000 lbs. ONE ONE
8" 4000 lbs. TWO ONE
6 1/2" 2800 lbs. THREE TWO
4 3/4" 1500 lbs. SEVEN FOUR

DRILL PIPE

SIZE APPROX. JOINTS PER JOINTS PER

WEIGHT BUNDLE BUNDLE
PER JOINT (5 ton slings) (3 ton slings)
6 5/8" 1000lbs TEN SIX
5"(S) 700lbs TEN NINE
3 1/2 400lbs TEN TEN

HEAVY WEIGHT DRILL PIPE

SIZE APPROX. WEIGHT JOINTS PER JOINTS PER

PER JOINT BUNDLE BUNDLE
(5 ton slings) (3 ton slings)
6 5/8" 2500lbs FOUR TWO
5" 1500lbs SEVEN FOUR

Page 38 of 92
LENGTH OF SLING Is the sling long enough to double wrap a bundle of pipe with ease.
Adjust number in bundle to suit but never exceed SWL of slings.

LIFTING CAPACITY Become Familiar with the lifting capacities of the crane at minimum
and maximum radius. These differ on makes and types of cranes.
Some can lift the same amount at any angle, others are reduced in
their lifting capacities as the boom is lowered to the horizontal
position. Tables shown are for two slings equally sharing the load.
Angle between the slings is 90 degrees maximum. Weights are
approximate as the sizes and lengths of tubulars in use differs from
rig to rig. As you can see from the tables some of the figures could
be excessive, you could lift 35 joints of 3 1/2" DP with two 5 ton
slings. Generally speaking, if tubulars are ten per bundle maximum
they will not exceed whip line restrictions.

1 IMPERIAL TON = 2240lbs 1 TONNE = 2200lbs 1 SHORT TON = 2000lbs

Page 39 of 92
ROUSTABOUT TRAINING

PART 2

Page 40 of 92
 PART TWO CONTENTS

MANUAL OR KINETIC LIFTING

HAND TOOLS

SUB'S

CONTAINERS

ROPE WORK

CASING

TUBULARS (IDENTIFICATION)

TUBULARS (HANDLING EQUIPMENT)

INTRODUCTION TO THE DRILL FLOOR

Page 41 of 92
 MANUAL OR KINETIC LIFTING

Lifting is an everyday occurrence both at work and at home, but at the work site the objects tend
to be heavier. It is important therefore that the correct posture and lifting techniques are used to
avoid injury to yourself or a workmate. Back injuries are painful and almost impossible to cure
properly.

PREPARATION

Pre-plan your job by assessing the weight of the lift, (will it need more than one person) never be
afraid to ask for help.

Inspect the area, your route and the new location for obstacles or hazards. Don't arrive at the
new site with the load only to find nowhere to set it down, similarly check your route is not
blocked.

THE LIFT (GROUND LEVEL)

We now come to the correct lifting position. There are seven points that we have to observe to
ensure a good base from which to lift a load.

Feet

The feet must be close to the load and be hip width apart. The lead foot should be slightly
forward, your weight is now acting vertically downwards. If your feet are too close together,
your centre of gravity will be outside your base and you will find it difficult to maintain your
balance.

If you are too far away from the load, then this will tend to induce a bend in your back and your
centre of gravity will be too far forward. This will cause you to fall forward.

Knees

Your knees should be bent to ensure that the body is at the correct height in relation to the load.
It is important that the knees are bent because when we lift the load, the knees are straightened
and the leg and thigh muscles are used.

Back

The back should be straight but inclined forward slightly.

Head and Chin

The head should be raised sufficiently to allow you to look ahead of you the chin is then pulled
in. This will lock the top of your spine and help to keep your back straight.

Page 42 of 92
Arms

The arms should be close to the body and inside the knees. This will produce a good compact
lifting position.

Correct Grip

Ensure you grip the load with the palms of your hands and the roots of your fingers and take a
good solid grip.

DON'T GRIP THE LOAD BY MOVING PARTS

DON'T GRIP ANYTHING THAT IS LIKELY TO COME ADRIFT

DON'T GRIP ANYTHING THAT IS GREASY

Counterbalance

When lifting the load use your body weight to counter balance the weight of the load. This will
prevent you from being pulled off balance.

So to re-cap:-

FEET APART
LEADING FOOT FORWARD
BACK STRAIGHT AND INCLINED SLIGHTLY FORWARD
HEAD AND CHIN TUCKED IN
ARMS CLOSE TO THE BODY AND INSIDE THE KNEES
TAKE A GOOD GRIP
USE YOUR WEIGHT AS A COUNTER BALANCE

You are now ready to straighten your knees and use the muscles of the leg and thighs to lift the
load.

Always be aware of the dangers of incorrect handling, kinetic means relaxed and efficient
movements. 20% to 30% of all industrial accidents result from bad handling techniques.

On the following page (Fig 2.1) are some illustrations showing the importance of distributing the
weight of the load evenly and maintaining correct balance.

Page 43 of 92
SHARE THE LOAD

Fig 2.1

Page 44 of 92
 HAND TOOLS

Using the incorrect tool for the job is the cause of many minor injuries found offshore and this
need never happen. Preplanning a job is a necessity which will eliminate the temptation to pick
up a tool and use it for a purpose it was not designed for. Of course it will not take away from
the fact that we humans tend to do the dumbest things, so you may have the right tool but what
use you put it to is another question. (Pipe wrenches, adjustable spanners, wooden beams,
scaffold tubes etc. All seem to make great hammers

Before any job gets underway, gather together all the tools you can envisage will be required and
check for suitability.

If during the job, you find you are using a tool that is not suitable, go and get the correct tool for
the job. The effort that is required to this far outweighs the possible consequences.

Check that the tools are clean and in good condition with no obvious defects. Never use a hand
tool you suspect may have been abused previously.

Treat your hand tools with the respect they deserve, i.e. don't have a 30' bar on the end of an 18"
pipe wrench and jump up and down on it.

Always clean, inspect and return tools to their proper location as soon as is practical.

Report any defects found immediately, no matter how minor, to the person you borrowed the
tool from in the first place and to your supervisor.

To summarise:- CORRECT TOOL

CORRECT FIT

CORRECT USE

CLEAN, RETURN, REPORT

Page 45 of 92
 SUBS

In this section we will deal with the five most commonly used sub's, their uses, and how to
identify them. The different thread sizes and the less well used sub's will be dealt with in a later
section. You will find that the names of the tool's in this section are self explanatory to a large
degree.

Lifting Sub's (Nubbins) FIG. 2.2

Normally used to lift drill collar, drilling jar's, mud motors or heavy tubulars associated with the
bottom hole assembly. A lifting sub has only a pin end thread, the opposite end is shaped to
allow them to be latched into the elevators. A small pad eye is usually welded to the top (though
not always) so that a tugger or sling can be attached and the sub can then be easily moved.

Cross Overs FIG.2.3

These are used to allow the Driller to change from one size of tubular to another. For example 6
5/8 to 5" drill pipe. They can vary in the make up of the threads, some will have a pin or box at
either end, others will be the normal pin and box. You will be told what is required. You can
recognise these easily by the different sizes of the end's.

Bit Sub's FIG.2.4

To connect the drill bit to the first tubular in the drill string. As drill bit's have a pin thread and
the first tubular has a pin thread a bit sub will have a box thread at both ends. The sizes vary
according to which section of the hole is being drilled.

Junk Basket's FIG2. 5

In the event of any small pieces of debris in the hole, i.e. pieces of pipe rubber's, Chipping’s or
nozzles from the bit, a junk sub may be run. It is made up of straight sub with an outer casing
half the size approximately of the straight sub. When it is in position in the hole the Driller will
circulate the mud in the hope of the junk falling between the outer case and the sub. The outer
case makes this sub easy to identify.

Jetting Sub's

You will be able to identify this sub by any one of the following characteristics. An open end
shaped to a point, holes cut in the side of the body or a rubber nose section at the bottom of the
sub. This sub is used mainly to wash off any cuttings or debris from the well head.

When ever you get an opportunity try to identify these sub's in the sub store and you will get to
know them. This will help you and your crane operator to supply the drill floor with the correct
equipment when it is required. Remember practice makes perfect.

Page 46 of 92
 COMMON SUBS

CROSSOVERS (FIG 2.3)

LIFTING SUB (FIG 2.2)

BIT SUB (FIG 2.4)

JUNK BASKET (FIG 2.5)

Page 47 of 92
 CONTAINERS

Almost every day of your offshore trip you will probably be required to move a container or a
similar lift. Although at first glance this would appear to be an easy task there are still some
important factors to bear in mind.

Firstly establish where the lift is going and make sure the area is clear. Then check the contents
to see if they are secure. Loose equipment can be damaged or can cause damage to the
container. Check also that the container is not over loaded or that there are any loos objects on
top of it.
The diagram below shows 4 basic checks to make prior to use

1. The S.W.L. and the date on which the certificate of the container expires are clearly marked
on a brass plate on the outside of the container.
2. Doors will properly close and lock
3. No visible damage e.g. cracked welds, jagged edges etc.
4. Lifting bridle is correct size and colour code and all shackles are firmly secured with no
twist in the bridle.

FIG 2.6 FIG 2.7

Do not allow items to protrude over the
sides or be in a position where they are
able to roll or fall off. When you are
satisfied that everything is in order, close
the doors, ensure that the safety latches
are in place and then attach your tag line.
You are now ready for the crane. Hook
on and signal the operator to take the
weight. At this point there is a check list
you should go through.
FIG 2.8
1. The crane boom tip should be directly above the load.
2. The lifting gear should not be twisted or kinked.
3. Make sure the crane operator can see the signals clearly.
Page 48 of 92
Page 49 of 92
 CHEMICAL CONTAINERS

Before a supply boat arrives on location the crane operator will receive a copy of the manifested
goods, this will allow him sufficient time to plan where all the off-loaded cargo can be stowed.

If the ships cargo includes a large quantity of chemicals then certain preparations will have to be
made to ensure they are stowed into the sack storage area in a safe and logical order.

The mud engineer/derrickman should be contacted and he will advise where the chemicals
coming off the supply boat will be best positioned.

It may be necessary to re-arrange the sack store so that the chemicals that will be mixed first will
end up at the front of the pile and not at the back.

Where ever possible, chemicals of the same type should be stowed in the same stacks.

The forklift will be serviced ready for action with all the pre start checks completed.

The sack store should be clean to give the best possible traction for the fork-lift.

When unloading the pallets from the containers check for any warning stickers on the exterior of
the container and handle with care. Remove redundant warning sticker if the container is not to
be used for the same purpose.

When stowing the pallet on top of another make sure it is directly above the previous one,
squarely landed and stable, remember not to block off access to the hopper. Stack Pallets no
more than three high.

Don't be tempted to squeeze any more pallets of chemicals into the sack store than it can take.
Allow the forklift space to be able to manoeuvre with comfort.

If there are more containers to be emptied and there is no more room left, let the crane op know,
he will probably decide to keep the remainder in the containers on deck or leave them on the
boat.

Page 50 of 92
 ROPE WORK

Once you have mastered the basics there are a couple of other knots in the following pages you
may find you can put to good use offshore. It is not the intention to bog you down with too
much to learn in the way of rope work but the more knots you know and the more applications
you can find for them the better.

Being able to splice rope is also very handy to know, but keep it simple, stick to an eye and a
back splice. Most people offshore learn how to splice rope at sometime or another so there are
no end of people you can ask to show you.

The back splice is good for tidying up the end of a rope but it almost doubles the thickness of the
rope, which can cause it to catch up when running through a tight space.

Also included in the following pages are diagrams for whipping the ends of rope, which if you
have the time to do, takes no longer than splicing and is more permanent than taping up the ends.

REEF KNOT
Used for making temporary joints in identical lines which will not be subject to strain.

Fig 2.9 Fig 2.10

Page 51 of 92
Fig 2.11 Fig 2.12

Page 52 of 92
 Fig 2.13 Fig 2.14

Picture 2.14 is a slipped reef knot, this allows for easy release.

WATER KNOT

Common knot used in thin rope. Not to be used for high amounts of strain.

Fig 2.15 Fig 2.16

Page 53 of 92
Fig 2.17 Fig 2.18

Page 54 of 92
WHIPPING THE END OF ROPE

Fig 2.19

Page 55 of 92
STORING A ROPE

Before putting a rope away there are a few basic things to be done to keep the rope in good
condition. First of all, check that the ends are not frayed. If they are they should be cut and
fused again to bind them; then uncoil the rope in the direction of the lay and seize the ends.
Clean away any tar stains, and if it is twisted or kinked run it counterclockwise through a
block and lay it on the ground in large turns to allow the strands to settle.

Fig 2.20 Fig 2.21

Fig 2.22 Fig 2.23

Page 56 of 92
BACK SPLICE

Fig 2.25

Page 57 of 92
 WORKING WITH CASING.

LAYING OUT CASING

Prior to the supply boat arriving with the casing onboard certain steps have to be made to ensure
the operation can proceed with the minimum of fuss. Preplanning is essential, organising the
deck area, laying down wooden batons, putting in samson posts, getting all the tools for the job
together, clearing away an unnecessary equipment, keeping work area clear and clean all help to
get the job off to a good start.

We are also going to have to know how many joints of casing are going to be arriving and what
sizes and grades they are. This is so we can organise how many joints will fit into each row and
in what order they need to be laid out in.

The grade of casing is marked in the form of a colour code on the box end of the joint. Bear this
in mind when the job gets under way and you are taking off the protectors from box end, check
the colour code, different grades have been known to be mixed when they are loaded onto the
boat.

Whey laying out the wooden batons onto the beams on the pipe deck, make sure you do not have
the wood sticking out beyond the samson posts. Have them flush with the outer end of the post.

A pre-job safety meeting will be held prior to the operation commencing. Possible the most
hazardous stage of the job will be when the casing is off-loaded and positioned in the pipe-bays
but do not take that to mean the rest of the job will be trouble free, you have to be on your toes
the whole of the time you are out on deck.

As the bundles of casing are brought into the pipe bays try and land them as straight as possible,
right angles to the samson posts, this can save a lot of time and effort on your part.

Once the bundle is landed the crane will hold the weight and once you have established it is safe
to approach the tie wraps can be removed and the bulldog grips loosened. When conducting this
task ensure you are not in a caught-between position should the slings or even the crane fails.
(highly unlikely but not worth taking a chance on)

Stand in a safe position and make sure your workmates are also in a safe position, then lower off
the crane a little. If the joints do not look as if they will drop get a pinch/crow bar and help them
to do so. (again, making sure you are not in a caught-between position)

Remove slings and protectors and store them out of the way.

When there is sufficient casing to make up one complete row, all the slings and protectors should
now be off.

It may be necessary to remove a couple of joints, or leave them out in the first place, to achieve
the removal of all of the protectors.

Page 58 of 92
In some cases they may “box” the casing. This means we have to get either the pin or the box
ends in a straight line. By doing this it will be easier to rabbit the casing.

The casing then has to be moved until it is hard against the samson posts at either end and all
gaps in the middle of the row taken out by filling with wooden batons or chocking.

The next job is to measure the casing, paint the numbers and measurements on the joints. The
joints are numbered from the joint furthest away from the catwalk, working in sequence towards
the catwalk. It is important to take your time and ensure they are numbered correctly.

When laying down the wood for the next row, be sure to position them directly above the ones
on the previous row.

The key to most jobs offshore is teamwork and this is especially true when taking on casing. If
you see one of your workmates struggling to do his part of the job and you have finished your
side of it, do not stand around and watch him struggle, help him.

Page 59 of 92
 RABBITING (DRIFTING) CASING

After the casing has been laid out the first job is to rabbit/drift the casing. This is done to ensure
all the drilling tools that will be used in the subsequent operations will pass through the internal
diameter of the casing. There are a number of different ways this can be achieved depending
upon size and type of tubular to be drifted.

By either using a length of stiff wire or drain rods attached to the casing drift or the more
commonly used tincan, rope and air hose method.

Which ever way it is decided to do the job, the drifts tend to have one thing in common, they are
heavy, especially when you are doing the top rows which can be above head height. Great care
must be taken when installing/removing the rabbit from the joints, do not let it fall to the deck,
watch where you place your hands, work off a stable platform, do not over reach, communicate
with the other man involved.

When using the air hose method there are safety procedures that must be followed

WEAR GOGGLES

ENSURE ALL FITTINGS AND VALVES ARE IN GOOD CONDITION

SAFETY CLIPS AND WHIP CHECKS INSTALLED ON AIR LINE

STAND WELL CLEAR WHEN BLOWING CAN THROUGH (a lot of dirt accumulates
inside)

BLEED OFF AIR HOSE WHEN NOT IN USE

COIL DOWN AIR HOSE AFTER USE AND STOW AWAY

It is important from the outset to establish that you have the correct drift for the job before you
start, it may be that a nylon drift is required or that the operator wants his own drift to be used.
There is nothing worse than having to do the whole job over again.

If you come across a joint that will not drift, try it again, it might be that the rope has jammed up,
it is always better to splice the rope to the eye on the drift or at least tape up the ends to prevent
this happening. If the joint still will not drift, mark it with red paint, establish what number it is
and inform your supervisor.

On completion stow away all of the equipment and clean the area.

Page 60 of 92
 RUNNING CASING

There are various ways you can run casing, depending on size the of casing and the rigs layout,
whether the catwalk has a backstop, pipe hustler, if it is craned into rig floor or picked up from
the catwalk, there is no general procedure that can cover each situation but they all demand the
same safety precautions. What we will run through is the general procedure for running 13 3/8"
casing. Well before the actual job of running the casing, all the handling gear is checked out and
moved to the pipe deck area ready for moving to the rig floor. Lifting equipment is checked over
and all the tools for the job are prepared.
A crew pre-job safety meeting is held (usually on the rig floor.) The casing handling gear is sent
to the rig floor and rigged up. The casing job begins.

Shoe, bakerlocks and float collar are picked up and are tailed in by the crane. A casing running
order is established, there may be some joints in the sequence that will be missed out, these will
be made known to the deck crew. The casing is ready to be picked up, lets look at the sequence
involved and some of the safety aspects.

Watch out for pinch points to hands and legs, so do not stand between two unsecured joints. An
inflatable protector is installed, make sure air line is properly secured and in good condition,
make sure protector is blown up fully, we don't want it coming off during the operation.

When the joint has been slung check with the man at the other end of the joint and make sure he
is ready before you signal the crane to move. Move the joint onto the catwalk

Remember that the Crane Op might not be able to see catwalk so the signals must be clear and
precise. Only one man should signal the crane.

Unhook the crane and hook onto the next joint to be run, do not let go of the hook it will swing
towards your partner.

Never turn your back on the job at any time, remember what you have been taught about
working on the catwalk.

It may be necessary to keep the catwalk wet to prevent the rubber protector from dragging along
the catwalk, pulling itself off and possibly shocking the joint forward.

Choose a suitable time to recover the protector, if any get damaged take them out of commission,
tell your workmates so they do not use them and tell your relief’s.

Keep the work area tidy as the job progresses, lay down slings for the redundant wood as it
becomes available and sort it out into short and long lengths.

Page 61 of 92
If this is your first casing job, then you should come out earlier than normal to observe how the
job is being done, make the most of this opportunity.

If you see at any time a hazardous situation developing, stop the job, do not feel pressured into
doing anything at a pace that you cannot keep up with, we all want the job to go as fast as
possible but not at the expense of safety.

A typical casing running order would be:

SHOE JOINT
BAKERLOCK JOINT
FLOAT COLLAR
CASING
CASING HANGER
CASING HANGER RUNNING TOOL
LANDING STRING

Typical selection of casing equipment:

POWER TONG CASING BAILS

SIDE DOOR ELEVATORS SINGLE JOINT PICK UP ELEVATORS
500 T POWER ELEVATORS 500 T POWER SLIPS
HAND HELD CASING SLIPS CIRCULATING HEAD
WATER BUSHING STABBING GUIDE
CENTRALISERS STOP COLLAR

Guide shoes serve as a positive guide as

casing is being run to setting depth.

Float Collars provide the landing point

and sealing surface for the cementing
plugs. Each collar’s check valve acts as a
primary valve when used with a float
shoe

Fig 2.26 Fig 2.27

GUIDE SHOE FLOAT COLLAR

Page 62 of 92
 Fig 2.28 Fig 2.29
CENTRALISER STOP COLLAR

This picture shows the Derrickman working at

the Stabbing Board. Note the pick-up elevators
and the casing centraliser

Fig 2.30

Page 63 of 92
 HANDLING TUBULARS

In this section we will recap and expand on what you have learned in the basic slinging section
and deal specifically with making up a bundle of pipe and moving the bundle from one position
on the rig to another.

We will assume that the slings to be used have been checked, are in good condition, the same
length, correct SWL for job and bear the current colour code.

Check to see that all the pipes have a properly fitting protector installed. It may be necessary to
box the pipe if any of the joints are protruding. It may be necessary to use wooden chocks to
prevent the pipe moving. Fig 2.31 overleaf.

If the pipe is Aban owned and it is going to be sent ashore in the near future then the rigs
identification should be painted on each joint.

Both men should stand approximately 1/4 of the way in from the ends of the pipe and pass the
slings under the pipe, double wrap and choke the slings the same way take care not to cross the
slings on the underside of the pipe. Figs 2.32 & 2.33 overleaf.

When you have hooked up the crane and both yourself and your partner are out of the way in a
safe position, the Banksman should signal the crane to take the weight, stop the crane when the
slack has been taken out of the slings and check position of boom, re-position if necessary.

Continue with the lift until all the tubulars have come together and the crane has the bundle
tightly held together a couple of inches above the height of the deck.
If the bundle has lifted level and you feel no further adjustment will be required, set the bundle
back down on the deck but keep the majority of the weight on the crane.

When you are positive the load is not likely to move, approach and attach bulldog grips if the
load is to be backloaded on to a supply boat. Fig 2.34 overleaf.

Securely attach a tag line of suitable length and size at either end making sure that there are no
knots or loops in the ends of the tag lines. An important point to remember when using tag lines
is never to wrap the tag line around any part of your body when trying to control a load. Never
snub a load onto a Samson Post as they can lift out easily and could hurt someone.
When moving the load, both men should stand at the same side of the load and face the direction
the load will be heading, walk with the load, controlling it by pulling the tag lines at right angles
to the load.

Do not be tempted to lay your hands on the load, any sudden jerking of the load can cause the
bundle to snap tighter and take your fingers with it, use the tag lines.
When landing the load, stop the crane when the weight is off and remove the tag lines, then slack
the crane all the way off, this will prevent the tag lines becoming caught up in the pipe and
adding an unnecessary complication. Fig2.35 gives some examples of bad slinging methods.

Page 64 of 92
FIG 2.31

FIG 2.32

Page 65 of 92
FIG 2.33

Fig 2. 35

FIG 2.34

Page 66 of 92
 TUBULARS

This section will deal with tubulars that are in use on the majority of rigs, their sizes and
grades can vary from rig to rig for various reasons, identification, however, is standard.

Diagrams and pictures are shown on the following pages.

Drill Pipe (FIG 2.36)

SIZES.6 5/8”, 5”, 3 1/2”

Used to support the weight of the drill collars and heavy weight drill pipe below it, designed to
be held in tension and not to add weight to the bit. Short lengths of drill pipe are known as
pup joints, lengths are generally 5’, 10’, 15’, & 20’

Drill Collars

SIZES.......... 9 1/2".......... 8"......... 6 1/2"......4 3/4"...... 3 1/8"

TYPES.........SPIRAL (FIG 2.37)........ SLICK (FIG 2. 38)........NON MAGNETIC

Drill collars are used to apply weight to the drill bit and are designed to be held in
compression. Slick and spiral drill collars are flush at the pin end, with a square shoulder
(zip) at the box end. Non magnetic drill collars have no recess for elevators and require a
lifting sub attached to the box end to adapt to the elevators in use. Short drill collars are
known as ponies.

Heavy Weight (Wall) Drill Pipe

SIZES....... 6 5/8" ..........5"

Heavy weight drill pipe is used as a transition between the drill collars (in compression) and
the drill pipe (in tension) and come in two types:

Standard heavy weight (FIG. 2.39) which is slick in appearance with an upset in the middle of
the joint and longer tool joints than regular drill pipe.

Spiral weight (FIG.2.40) similar in appearance to spiral collars but with the elongated tool
joints.

Page 67 of 92
 FIG 2.36: DRILL PIPE FIG 2.37: SPIRAL DRILL COLLARS

FIG 2.38: SLICK DRILL FIG 2.39: STANDARD FIG 2.40: SPIRAL
COLLAR HEAVYWEIGHT HEAVYWEIGHT

Page 68 of 92
 HANDLING GEAR

On the following pages are some pictures of common equipment used on the rig floor for
handling tubulars.

DRILL PIPE

Fig 2.41 Drill Pipe Elevators Fig 2.42 Rotary Slips

DRILL COLLARS

Fig 2.43 Drill Collar Elevators Fig 2.44 Drill Collar Slips

FFFFFFig 5 Dog Collar

Fig 2.45 Dog Collar

Page 69 of 92
CASING HANDLING EQUIPMENT

Fig 2.46 Side Door Elevators Fig 2.47 Casing Slips

Fig 2.48 Power Elevators Fig 2.49 Power Slips

Fig 2.50 Single Joint Pick Up Elevators

Page 70 of 92
 INTRODUCTION TO THE RIG FLOOR

This section is mainly practical lessons. The assistant Driller will take you round the rig floor
and explain the equipment to you and show you how it works. There are, however some rules
you need to know before this happens.

The rig floor is a hazardous area so treat is as such, always be alert, pay attention to your job
and the instruction given to you. Your first impression of the rig floor will probably be of a
very hectic area that you don't want to visit very often, this will pass as you become familiar
with the area and the operations that take place there. If you are told to do something by the
Driller, AD. or the other experienced members of the drill crew do not argue or ask questions,
do it later when time permits they will be more than happy to explain. You should not stand
between the Driller and the rotary table. He needs to be able to see the job in progress at all
times. When using tongs or the iron roughneck, use the handles to work them. There will be
tubulars being moved to and from the rotary so do not stand where you can be trapped.

After you have a while, when you have gained some experience on the rig floor you will be
required to drive some of the air hoists/tuggers to move equipment. You must always take
great care to avoid the load hanging up or the wire balling up on the drum.

So to re-cap when on the rig floor obey the instructions given to you and always concentrate
and stay alert.

Page 71 of 92
ROUSTABOUT TRAINING

PART 3

Page 72 of 92
 PART THREE CONTENTS

FORKLIFT TRUCK

TUBULARS (CARE)

DRILLING TOOLS

ADVANCED SLINGING

SECURING DECKS

POWER TOOLS

Page 73 of 92
 FORKLIFT TRUCK

Until you have passed the Aban In-House training course or have a recognised forkift truck
certificate, you must not, under any circumstances drive the forklift truck. This piece of
equipment can do untold damage to personnel, rig fitting's or mud chemicals. If you are asked to
drive it, then inform the person that you are not qualified to do so.

Once you have the driving certificate you must put into practice what you have been taught. Do
not get complacent about this operation. Since this book is meant to be kept for future reference
as well as tuition we will list some of the most important safety rules and good work practices.

1. Ensure that the truck is in good working order before you begin any operation.

2. Drive slowly and maintain a good field of vision, be on the look out for any obstacles or
hazards.

3. When moving, keep the forks as low as possible even when travelling without a load.

4. Always keep every part of yourself inside the protective cage when operating the
machine.

5. Never stack pallets more than three high and make sure the pallet is in good condition
before you move it.

6. Always check the surrounding area before reversing. Make sure there are no people or
obstacles behind you.

7. If any faults occur during operations or if you find any in your pre-start routine then stop
what you are doing and report the fault to your supervisor and the mechanic.

8. When you are finished with the truck or for any reason you have to leave it then you
must set the forks on the deck, set all the brakes and switch off the engine.

Remember this machine can cause a lot of damage or injury. You as a driver can be injured by
it, so take the utmost care when using it.

Page 74 of 92
 TUBULARS (CARE)

Working on deck and coming into contact with tubulars each day we can play an important part
in drill string care and possibly prevent down hole tool failure by spotting damage that otherwise
may be missed.

So what are we looking for?

Anything out of the ordinary is the easiest answer to give.

When rolling a joint the obvious thing to look out for is a bent joint, you will know soon when
you come across one.

When installing a lifting cap, does it go on freely without forcing it. Are you sure the lifting cap
is the correct size. Remember that once on the drill floor they will be using mechanical devices
to screw the joints together and may have no indication anything is wrong so your input is
definitely valued. There may be nothing wrong with the joint but at least you will have brought
it to someone's attention who is more qualified to judge than yourself and that will be
appreciated. Remember that you are not doing someone a favour, its part of your job.

Excessive tong or slip damage is fairly easy to detect as are worn tool joints but other
deformations are not so easy. We frequently have the job of cleaning and re doping drilling
equipment and then is a good time to have a closer look at the threaded connections.

What can we do as our part of the chain to prevent damage occurring to drill string components?

When racking tubulars, land them on wood, control the loads to prevent smashing them into
anything, never lift any tubular without thread protection, space timber evenly to spread the load
of the subsequent rows, put timber directly above previous one, ensure the joints will not roll by
chocking, when removing a lifting cap, replace with protector immediately, never leave any
tubular without thread protection, never land a load close to an exposed thread as with casing.

In short, do not be scared to open your mouth if you see anything out of the ordinary, keep your
eyes open.

Page 75 of 92
 DRILLING TOOLS

At this stage in your training you should be beginning to understand a good deal of what is going
on around you with regards to the drilling operations, getting to know the tools and
understanding their uses.

On the following pages are pictures of the tools common to most rigs. Their makes will differ
according to the operators preference. Being able to identify these tools will be an asset to all
concerned, if you know how to tell the difference between a bit sub and a bent sub or a near bit
stabiliser and a string stabiliser then it can save a lot of time and frustration to all concerned, so a
photocopy of them kept in your tally book would be a good idea until you become familiar with
them. Their functions at this stage are not that important for you to understand but we would
find it strange to say the least, if after 6 months you do not understand what a stabiliser is used
for.

FIG 3.1 VARIOUS BITS (from left to right)

INSERT BUTTON, ROCK/MILL TOOTH, PDC.

Page 76 of 92
FIG 3.2 HOLE OPENER FIG 3.3 UNDER REAMER

FIG 3.4 DRILLING JARS

Page 77 of 92
 Fig 3.5
VARIOUS STABILISERS

WELDED SHRUNK-ON
INTEGRAL
BLADE SLEEVE
BLADE

SLEEVE WITH SLEEVE WITH

HARDFACING TUNGSTEN
CARBIDE

Page 78 of 92
 ADVANCED SLINGING

This section will deal with the more detailed aspects of good slinging practices and the various
equipment you will come across. The section is sub divided into eight main areas. Some of the
information will be familiar to you, but it will do no harm to go over it again. The main areas we
will deal with are SWL, SLINGS AND SPREADERS, ANGLES, HOOKS, SHACKLES,
EYE BOLTS, CHAIN AND ROPE, LIFTING GEAR

Safe Working Load

As you know the SWL of a sling is marked on the ferrule it means that you will not lift a load
greater than the SWL of that sling. The SWL is calculated by taking a sample of the wire at the
factory and testing it to destruction. A safety factor is then used to arrive at the SWL. The safety
factor used depends on what the rope will be used for,
(slings, crane wires etc) An example of this calculation is as follows:

ROPE BREAKS AT 40 TONS

SAFETY FACTOR IS 5 TO 1

The 40 ton breaking strain is divided by the safety factor of five to give a SWL of 8 tons. Do not
assume however that because of the built in safety factor that you can exceed the SWL
marked on the sling. Wire ropes will deteriorate with use or age so always stick to the SWL.

Slings and Spreaders

Before any lift these must be inspected for damage or wear. There can be no exceptions to this
rule. You must take care of this equipment. When it is not being used, stow it away don't leave
it lying on the deck. When slinging lifts care should be taken not to damage the sling or the lift,
this can be done in a number of ways.

Let us look at how to avoid damage to the sling. If the load has any sharp edges or corners you
can use wood or rags to pack the sling and avoid the edge cutting the sling. Do not choke the
sling when you are lifting small diameter objects. You can double wrap if it is a tubular lift or
you can cradle the load for items fitted with a lifting cap, but in each case both eyes of the sling
should be on the crane hook.

Never hit the sling with anything to get it tighter if necessary re-sling the load. Remember also
that when you choke a sling you must half the SWL.

Much the same is true when avoiding damage to the lift. For fragile lifts or wooden crates it is
better to cradle it. You must make sure that there is no danger of the lift slipping from the slings
however. To this end rope lashings can be used if needed. When lifting tubulars you must put
both slings on in the same direction. If you don't then slings will try and twist the load and in
doing so may bend the tubulars. This will also result in additional stress being applied to the
sling.
Page 79 of 92
When using spreaders you need to take into account the angle between each leg as well as the
sling on the load. The next section will deal with the angles in detail. You should never use the
spreaders as slings by wrapping them around a load. They are not designed for this and it is a
very dangerous practice. It is also bad practice to use them without a short tag line on the hook,
this will let you control the hooks as they are lowered to you by the crane. Always hold onto
them when they are in your danger area i.e. head height and below. If you need to do any work
get the crane to hoist them clear. Almost every time you use a set of spreaders there will be a
man on each hook. It is important to work as a team and communicate with each other. Make
sure you are both ready before one of you signals any movement to the crane. Finally, when you
are using the spreaders for a few lifts, regularly check hooks and shackles to make sure
everything is still in good order

Angles
Fig 3.6

Page 80 of 92
 It is extremely important to get the spreaders and
slings in the correct range of angles. By this we
mean 0 to 90 degrees.

If the angle falls outside this then you are

effectively increasing the weight on the slings
and the SWL of the lifting gear is reduced. Fig
3.6

The more you exceed the 90 degree angle the less

weight your slings can lift.

Slings are effected in another way by angles.

When you choke a sling on a lift it creates an
angle at the point where the sling passes through
the eye. Fig 3.7

Do not bash down the eye to get it tighter you

may alter the angle to more than the 90 degree
maximum and as we have said before you will
reduce the lifting capabilities of the sling.

You also cause mechanical damage to the sling

reducing its life.

Page 81 of 92
 Fig 3.7

WIRE ROPES - MAXIMUM SAFE WORKING LOADS

ROUND STRAND EQUAL LAY 6 x 19 (12/6 + 6F1)
FIBRE CORE

Rope Diameter
Maximum Safe Working Loads (S.W.L.)
Single Part Choke Basket Two Single Slings Angle Loading
Lift Hitch Hitch
mm ins.
30° 60° 90°
11 7/16 1.4 0.7 1.96 2.70 2.42 1.97
12 - 1.7 0.85 2.4 3.28 2.94 2.40
13 1/2 2.0 1.0 2.8 3.86 3.46 2.82
14 9/16 2.3 1.15 2.22 4.44 3.98 3.24
15 5/8 3.9 1.5 4.2 5.79 5.19 4.23
18 11/16 3.8 1.9 5.32 7.33 6.57 5.36
19 3/4 4.3 2.15 6.02 8.30 7.44 6.06
20 13/16 4.7 2.35 6.6 9.07 8.13 6.63
22 7/8 5.7 2.85 8.0 11.00 9.86 8.04
24 15/16 6.8 3.4 9.52 13.12 11.76 9.59
25 1 8.0 4.0 11.2 15.44 13.84 11.28
28 1.1/8 9.3 4.65 13.02
32 1.11/4 12.1 6.05 16.94 ANGLES NOT TO EXCEED 90°
35 1.3/8 14.5 7.25 20.3

1. Always put packing on sharp edges to protect the sling.

2. Do not put a sling round a radius of less than three times the sling
diameter.

3. When using a choke hitch half the Safe Working Load (SWL) of the sling.

4. When using two slings the load should not exceed SWL of one sling.

Page 82 of 92
HOOKS
You will have to use a variety of different hooks offshore, but we can class them in three general
categories.

Crane Hooks
These may vary in design but all will have some things in common. The latch will have a self
lock mechanism that you must release before the hook will open. There will also be a swivel
fitted above the hook to avoid the rope being twisted by the load

Safety Hooks
These are fitted to spreaders, single pennants and air winches. As with the crane hooks they have
a self lock device and a swivel.

Pipe or Sorting Hooks

These are used to move single joints of pipe only and must not be used for any slung loads.
Great care should be used when you are working with this type of hook. Hold the hook into the
tubular with the palm of your hand not your fingers. If for any reason the weight comes off the
hooks then they will fall out, so do not let the load hang up or it may fall. The tag line may
present another hazard if it is a light load. If it gets caught or you pull too hard it can pull the
hook free from the pipe. As you can see there are a number of potential hazards when using
these hooks. So be alert and never get too close to the lift.

As with all lifting apparatus inspect hooks before use an if you find a defect report it immediately
and remedy the fault.

Chains and Rope

Although you may sometimes come across a container or basket that has chain slings you should
never use a length of chain or rope to make your own slings.
This is a very bad habit to get into. You will, however,
Fig 3.8 encounter barrel hooks on some installations.
Fig 3.8.
Barrel hooks used for lifting drums out of baskets. These should
not be used for transporting barrels/drums any distance as, with
pipe hooks, if the weight is removed from the hooks by the load
hanging up then the hooks will come free.
If the tag line is placed on the hooks instead of the lifting ring as
it should be then if you pull too hard the hooks will again come
free.
Not all barrels are suitable, plastic or rimless barrels for
example.

There are other lifting devices used and you should always check with your crane operator
before attempting to lift a barrel/drum. (see below)

Page 83 of 92
Fibre rope must never be used as a lifting device (even with spliced eyes). Keep it for tag lines
and for tying-down light material. You will find this will keep everyone a lot safer.

Lifting Gear

The last seven headings have dealt with lifting aids. In this section we will look at chain hoists
and their uses. As with all lifting gear a chain hoist must have a current test certificate, current
colour code and must have the SWL stamped on it. You should also check it over before you
use it. The things you should look at are;

Damage or distortion to any of the chain links.

Seized or Rusted Mechanism.
Damaged or distorted hooks and latches.
Unreadable or missing SWL stamp.
Damage to the body of the block.

If you find any or all of the above defects then the block must not be used, but reported and sent
to town for repair and retest. If you are in any doubt, then ask your supervisor.

Chain hoists can be used simply as a straight lifting device or they can be used in tandem to
position lifts such as pumps, valves, sections of pipe or electrical motors. You must be aware,
however, that when working in tandem with another chain hoist or an air winch that you do not
overload the hoist. You should never use the chain as a sling. When looking for a securing point
from which to hang the hoist do not use pipes. Make sure you use a pad eye or substantial
structure that will adequately support the weight of the lift and the lifting tackle.

ALWAYS ERR ON THE SIDE OF SAFETY

SHACKLES

Page 84 of 92
The two most commonly used shackles are the bow and the dee shackle. You can easily tell
them apart by the shape. Generally these are used only on equipment where they are going to be

Fig 3.9 Bow shackle Fig 3.10 Dee shackle

removed/attached constantly. Fixed points require 4-part shackles (nut and bolt with safety pin)
Some contracts forbid the use of the Bow and Dee shackle unless they are the 4-part type.

The same rules apply to shackles as to all other lifting gear in that they must be inspected before
use. The following are a guide to what you are looking for.

1. The colour code, SWL is stamped on the body etc. Make sure it is adequate for what you
want to lift. Do not use the size of the shackle as an indication, it may be made from a
different material to another shackle of the same size.

2. Check for wear on the body and on the pin, also check the pin threads for wear. Never
use home made shackles or replace the pin with another pin or a nut and bolt.

3. Check for cracks or distortion by lightly tapping the body of the shackle with the pin. If
you hear a clear ring this is an excellent indication that there are no cracks or distortion.

These two types of shackle are used in different ways and should not be mixed on multi-leg
slings. In general the bow type is used in conjunction with hooks and the dee type is used with
slings. When you use dee shackles which are not 4-part with a sling you must make sure that the
sling will not roll the pin and unscrew it. If you have to fit shackles to any lifts then you should
"mouse" the pin to the body by means of a tie wrap or seizing wire. This is why the 4-part
shackle is preferred however, 2-part shackles are still in operation and should be used
accordingly as described.

Afterwards when you have finished the lift remove any shackles you have attached to the load
and store them in their proper place. This does not apply to any containers or those which have
permanent lifting gear on them in these instances.

Page 85 of 92
EYE BOLTS
There are two types of eye bolt that you may come across. (Fig 3.11). The common uses for eye
bolts are to lift motors or pumps. Always make sure that the bolt screws into the lift without any
undue force.
Fig 3.11

1. Dynamo or Collarless These can only be used for straight lifts

2. Collar or Shoulder Can be used for angled lifts. Make sure the
collar is in contact with the load and that the
bolt is in line with the sling. Never pull across
the eye. The maximum angle for this bolt is
45 degrees.

The safe working load will be stamped on the bolt so check it before you lift. If it is at all
possible to safely sling the load another way then that is what you should do.

Page 86 of 92
 SECURING FOR RIG MOVE

The operation we are about to discuss is a most important one. If it is not done correctly it can
lead to injury or damage to equipment or the rig itself. Winter is the time when this is most
critical, although loose equipment should not be left at any time. Let us now look at various
areas of the rig and see what gear and method's we have to employ.

PIPE DECK

The most common thing on the pipe deck are tubulars. Obviously if the rig is moving then any
loose tubulars will roll about. Samson posts must be in position and wood laid down before the
tubulars are placed in the bay. The posts will also provide a secure point from which to lash the
securing chains. To tie down pipes, first tie your chain to the samson post then pass the chain
over or around the pipes. Get the chain as tight as you can and then secure the other end of it.
You should now fit a tensioner to the chain and tighten it until the cargo is secure. You must
always use chain for heavy equipment, a rule of thumb for this is if you can't lift it use chains to
secure it. Tools and containers are also tied in using this method. Wooden or rubber wedges can
also be utilised to prevent cargo rolling about. For this operation you can never have enough
lashings.
ONLY RATCHET-TYPE LOAD BINDERS/TENSIONERS ARE TO BE USED – LEVER
TYPE BINDERS ARE PROHIBITED.

MAIN DECKS

The cargo you will find in the main deck areas will most likely be gas bottles, wooden boxes,
sheets of metal and other relatively light material. You may however, come across tools or
containers. These should be secured as the gear on the pipe deck. You may use rope or sling's
for the lighter equipment but if you do this, take great care that it is not going to break loose.

When securing the decks take into account that in rough weather the wind will be blowing so
anything that is light must be tied down. It may look harmless but once the wind has blown it
into the air it becomes a lethal weapon. Rubbish skips may also be on the main deck level these
should have a net over them and be secured to the handrail or a pad eye on the deck. Doors and
hatches can also be affected by the wind or the motion of the rig. You should make sure that the
securing dogs are all on. You will find an many cases baskets, skips etc. Are all moved into the
deck bays where they are easier to secure.

INTERNAL AREAS
It will be tools, subs, motors, valves etc. that you may come across in these areas. You should
pay particular attention to shelves to make sure nothing is going to roll off. Rope will be the
main thing used to tie these down. You will also find internal water tight hatches. Check these
are secure before you leave the space. Remember once on the rig move seemingly stable
equipment has the capacity to become a dropped object. If necessary, remove these items from
shelves etc. And tie them nearer the floor.

Page 87 of 92
GENERAL
Prevention is better than cure. So make sure you do your job properly at the first time of asking.
It is a very dangerous task trying to secure equipment once it has broken free and it is you, the
deck crew, who will be given the task when the rig is secure. Your supervisor will double check
in case anything has been overlooked. After that everything should be checked regularly to
ensure that nothing has come adrift or that the lashings have not come loose.

Page 88 of 92
 POWER TOOLS

In the course of your work you will be required to use certain power tools. Some of these will be
grinders, needle guns, hammer wrenches and possibly power saws. They all have one thing in
common they can cause severe injury if you do not follow the rules. The power source will be
air or electricity. We will deal with air operated tools first.

Once the equipment is on the work site you will have to set up. When doing this you must fit
safety clips and lanyards to the hose connections and inspect the air hose for any damage.
Before you start work you should assess the job and decide if you will need a permit to work.
For tools such as a grinder or a needle gun you may need a hot work permit as these tools
generate sparks. This done you should now make sure that you have goggles, face mask, gloves
or any other safety gear you require.

When using an electrical power tool such as a drill, grinder or power saw you must again check
if a work permit is required. Check that the cable is in good condition and make sure that is will
not be in your way when you start the job. If anything is amiss with the cable or the tool, take it
to the electrician straight away, do not attempt any repair yourself. The same is true for grinders,
to change the disc see the mechanic or the welder:-

You are not authorised to change them yourself

The tools you will be asked to use will have a "Dead Man Release", so if for any reason you drop
the tool the power source will cut off (machine will not keep running). All these tools have
exposed or semi-exposed moving parts. This means of course that loose clothing can become
entangled and serious injury can be caused by them. When using any power tool always grip
them by the handles provided. These tools can be of great assistance to you, but remember, they
can also cause you a great deal of pain.

Air operated tools are a cause for Hand and Arm Vibration (HAV) problems. Aban has a policy
for the use of these tools and you should check with the rig medic what the requirements are for
this.

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 ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS

Aban has a comprehensive Environmental Management System and you will receive training
relating to this. However, there are some basic procedures which you should be aware of and
comply with.

1. Nothing is allowed to be thrown overboard from the installation. All waste is to be kept
on the rig and disposed of correctly.

2. Waste segregation is extremely important. Get to know the different type of wastes on
board and the correct container to put them in.

3. Always report any oil or grease spillage.

4. Never use diesel or similar for cleaning.

5. If using grease or oil always replace the lid and put the drum back to the storage area.

6. If preparing paint only mix what you need to avoid wastage.

7. If cleaning up oil/mud spills always check with the crane operator where to dispose of
it correctly.

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 TIME OUT FOR SAFETY (TOFS)

Aban has a Time Out For Safety (TOFS) Policy in place. This means that if you choose to work
on an Aban Installation you choose to accept, not just the authority, but the OBLIGATION to
stop a job if it either is unsafe or just appears to be unsafe.

You have accepted this Obligation on the understanding that there will be no repercussions if
you call a TOFS and the job turns out to be perfectly safe. You will also be issued with a TOFS
License to further enforce the obligation and expectation by Aban Management. Calling a TOFS
will not always be easy, especially when it involves a supervisor. However, ask yourself how
you would feel if you saw something which later turned into a serious or tragic event, and YOU
did not at least call a TOFS and try?
Better to ask WHAT IF than later ask IF ONLY?

SEE MONITOR ACT REINFORCE and TRACK (SMART)

Aban has developed a process for changing personnel behaviour and attitude called SMART.
SMART is an acronym for See Monitor Act Reinforce and Track. SMART is applied to
everyone and there are no supervisors when it comes to a TOFS or a SMART conversation. You
will be trained on both TOFS and SMART.

THE JOB RISK ASSESSMENT AND THE PERMIT TO WORK PROCESSES

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Aban has a comprehensive Job Risk Assessment (JRA) and Permit To Work process in place.
There is a separate training package for both of these and the QHSE Coordinator on the rig will
give you more in-depth training when you are ready for these. However you should understand
that there is a process in place for assessing risk before any job is carried out. There are two types
of risk assessment – Formal and Informal. Informal is the one you will use most at the beginning
and there is a Prompt Card to help you with this. Again, basic training will make this process
easier for you.

Every job has to be broken down into steps and each step has to be check for possible hazards.
Where a hazard is found it has to be measure in line with the Aban severity matrix. Having
identified a hazard and its severity, we have to put controls in place to prevent the hazard actually
happening. We then re-measure the severity and if it is now considered acceptable – we may
proceed. If not, we have to revisit the controls.

One of the controls when conducting the Risk Assessment is called the Permit To Work. The
Permit To Work (PTW) is a controlling document for certain types of work and require approval
from the OIM/MIC before they may proceed. Every PTW will require a formal risk assessment.
The PTW raises the level of a task to where the senior people on the rig are involved (OIM/MIC,
person responsible for the area the task will take place (Issuing Authority) and any other people
who may be affected by the task. As before, there is a formal training package for this process.

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