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Activity 11

Direction: Answer the following, put your answer below each question. Submit your work online
in our Gmail account.

1. What is troubleshooting
- Troubleshooting is the process of diagnosing the source of a problem. It is used
to fix problems with hardware, software, and many other products. The basic
theory of troubleshooting is that you start with the most general (and often most
obvious) possible problems, and then narrow it down to more specific issues.
2. Give Safety tips in audio troubleshooting
- Your performance venues may use a variety of audio and video equipment, such
as mixers, amplifiers, loud speakers, outboard gear, microphones, computers,
projectors, and external dowers, etc. Like lighting operations, there are
significant exposures while installing, maintaining, and storing audio and video
equipment. You may be exposed to hazards such as fall from heights while
installing speakers, injury sustained from falling equipment, or back injuries from
lifting heavy equipment. An added hazard may result from the decibel level
generated by the speakers and amplifiers. It is important to review the rigging
and safe lifting guidelines in the Set Construction section. In addition, the USF
STAGES Code of Safe Practices Matrix identifies the applicable theater codes of
safe practices you are required to read for audio operations.

Electrical Risks

- Your supervisor will train you on the proper grounding requirements of the audio
equipment. Proper grounding will help eliminate a ground loop that can
potentially damage the equipment and may also result in electrical shock. The
best thing to do is avoid electrical shock by following safe electrical work
practices including lockout/ tagout. For additional information regarding lockout
and tagout, read the Lockout/Tagout/Blockout section in the Set Construction
chapter and the Code of Safe Practice on lockout/tagout/blockout, and consult
your Campus Lockout/ Tagout/Blockout Program for more information. For
additional information on basic electrical safe work practices, review the
electrical safety code of safe practices to understand why and how electrical
shock can be so dangerous.

Risks of Falling from Heights

- The procedures for hanging audio equipment may require you to work from
significant heights on catwalks, scaffolding, tension grids, aerial work platforms,
ladders or other elevated work surfaces. Fall exposures must be identified in the
planning stages and where necessary, appropriate fall protection measures
(guardrails, fall arrest gear, etc.) need to be in place and used. Employees and
students must be trained on potential fall exposures and the presence or use of
required fall protection. Supervisors must ensure employees are following all
safety requirements. In addition to direct training, several codes of safe practices
that address fall protection must be reviewed.

Suspended and Stand-Mounted Audio Equipment

- Overhead speaker units can cause severe injuries if not suspended properly.
Supervisors will train employees on how to properly install and rig the
suspended units. Ensure swags for flown cables are marked with caution tape
and placed at a safe height. The cable should be placed at a height that will clear
moving scenery and also be a safe distance off the deck. Tripods can present
trip/fall and falling object hazards. Supervisors will train employees regarding
proper tripod placement to ensure they are placed to reduce trip/fall hazards
and properly installed to prevent tip-over incidents.

Noise Levels

-High noise levels generated during rehearsals and productions can result in
hearing damage and hearing loss for the performers, crew, and orchestra.
Conduct sound level testing when planning high noise level events, and provide
appropriate hearing protection devices when the planned noise levels reach an
8-hour time weighted average of 85 decibels. Contact your Campus EH&S office
for assistance in evaluating the hazards of high noise levels.
Cable Management

Cable management for audio equipment poses the same hazards as cable management for
lights. Audio cabling includes the signal carrying cables, as well as, the power cables. The same
cable management steps used for lights apply to audio cables: 3 See the code of safety
practices regarding fall protection – trigger heights.

1.  Create a circuiting diagram for the theater indicating the location of all the
audio/visual equipment. 

2. Add extra sheets as needed to plot the sound board.

3.  Use the circuiting diagram to plan the equipment locations. Use gaffers tape to
label the circuit number at both ends of each cable. 

4.  Use the shortest cables possible to eliminate hanging loops that will tangle.
5.  Provide sufficient slack in the cable to allow for position adjustments.

6.  Group cables in parallel lines and use Velcro rip-ties, theatrical cord, or tie line
(glazed or unglazed) to keep them organized. The use of Velcro rip-ties, theatrical
cord, or tie line has several advantages:

 a. you need not replace the Velcro rip-ties, theatrical cord, or tie line (glazed or
unglazed) each time you need to add or remove a cable from the group

 b. the cable are not at risk of being cut as they are when you have to cut off a zip-
tie

 c. the risk of injury from the sharp edge of a trimmed zip-tie is eliminated

  d. the job is not disrupted by the search for a replacement tie as can happen
when using zip-ties that cannot be reused

 e. rip-ties, cord, and tie line generally cannot be pulled so tight they damage the
cables

1.  Never wrap cables around support beams or catwalk guardrails.

2.  Use re-closable J hooks and/or Velcro cable straps to support cables that must
be suspended from one point to another.

3.  Coil extra lengths of cable, and use Velcro rip-ties to keep the coil stable.

4.  Use cable guards where the cables must cross a foot-traffic area. If practical, use
a cable guard that is equipped with yellow or orange stripes to alert cast and
crew of the trip hazard.

 Inspection, Maintenance, and Storage

Regular inspection and maintenance will significantly reduce potential electrical malfunctions.
Training is required for any employee responsible for inspecting or maintaining audio and video
equipment.

3. Give a Guide in audio system Installations


This is an example of a Component speakers installation guide in car speakers
- Component speaker systems use separate woofers, tweeters, and crossovers to
send out detailed, dynamic sound. The crossovers send the low frequencies to
the woofers and the highs to the tweeters, freeing up each driver to play with
incredible clarity. Component speakers offer the listener greater imaging
possibilities than full-range speakers via increased flexibility in placement, aim,
and control. Getting the great sound that components have to offer does come
with a price. Component speaker installations generally require more time and
effort than coaxial speaker installations. Depending on your vehicle and where
you choose to place your components, they may require drilling or cutting. But
don’t be intimidated; this installation guide can help even first-time installers
find their way through the process.
What this guide provides
This installation guide will help you decide on the best location for your new
components, as well as help you prepare for and complete the installation.

Woofer placement
The dash, doors, and kick panels serve as the most common homes for woofers.
In many cases, you'll be able to mount the woofers in the factory speaker
locations with little to no adjustments — the "easy fit" option. At most, you'll
have to drill extra screw holes, cut a small area of metal or pressboard, or file the
door panel. "Modify fit" speakers require a greater degree of cutting and drilling.
Before you begin, you must be sure that modifications will not interfere with any
car mechanisms, and that the speakers will fit securely. Though you can relocate
any speaker, whether it be "easy" or "modify" fit, be aware that the process can
be complicated and time-consuming, especially for first-time installers.

Install
Install your woofer in your door or in your kickpanel (shown here in a QLogic
kickpanel pod).

Tweeter placement
Many people choose to install their tweeters on the doors, the sail or kick
panels, or the dash. Tweeter installations require some panel modifications, as
very few vehicles come with factory tweeter mounts. The degree of modification
depends on the mounting method. Just as it sounds, surface-mounting places
the tweeter on top of a surface, with little to no modifications necessary. Of
course, this method will leave you with a more noticeable installation. A flush-
mount, on the other hand, gives a smooth, customized look. It requires cutting a
hole into the door panel for the tweeter so it sits level with the interior panel.
Whichever method you choose, most manufacturers recommend that you
mount your tweeters within 12" of the woofers. Otherwise, the high and low
frequencies may reach your ears at different times, resulting in a sonic wave
cancellation or "phase interference."

Install
Place your tweeters in the door, the sail panel, even the dash (not pictured).

Crossover placement
Though crossovers usually require little in the way of car adaptation, finding the
right place to house them can be tricky. The crossovers need to be kept in a
place where they won't interfere with any of the car's moving parts, and where
they won't get wet or vibrate. While some people choose to permanently mount
them under the seats or on display, it's often just as easy to find a convenient
spot for them behind the mounting panel near the speakers. The closer the
crossover is to the speakers, the better, as the proximity will cut down on noise.
The doors and behind the kick panels serve as two good options for housing
crossovers.

Install
Crossover placement is just as important as speaker placement.

When to use new wiring


If you're powering your new speakers with a factory or aftermarket stereo, the
factory speaker wire already installed in your vehicle should work just fine.
However, if you plan to install an external amplifier that's rated at 50 watts RMS
or more per channel, then we recommend you run new speaker wire. 14- to 16-
gauge wire should do the trick when running new speaker wire.

Add-ons
The following installation instructions will also apply if you are adding a set of
speakers (midranges, tweeters) to your current aftermarket system.

Remember, as with any electronic installation, disconnect the negative cable on


your battery before doing anything else. Also, make sure you have the necessary
tools on hand (see above for details).

install
Disconnect your battery before any installation job.

Door mounting woofers


Most car manufacturers build the factory woofers into the door and, often, your
new woofer will easily fit into that factory speaker hole. You may still have to
dismantle part of your door to install it, however. Here's how:

Removing the grille


With a flathead screwdriver, gently pry off the grille of the existing speaker. Car
manufacturers usually create a notch in the grille for this very purpose. Grilles
secured to the door or attached by friction fittings will require unscrewing or
more aggressive prying.

install
Popping off the speaker grille is easy.

Removing the door panel


You may need to remove the door panel to access the factory speaker, or to
custom install your speakers. In this case, start by removing the window crank (if
you have one). A screw at the pivot secures some cranks, but most come
anchored by a spring clip. You can use a window-crank removal tool (available
from Crutchfield) or a flathead screwdriver to remove this clip. To remove,
depress the door panel until you can see behind the crank, turn the lever until
you see the prongs of the clip, and gently push the crank off with the
screwdriver. The clip will pop off, so be careful.

install
As the first step of removing the door panel, unscrew or unclip the window
crank.

Remove armrest and rest of panel


Next, you'll have to remove the armrest by unscrewing a few phillips-head
screws and some trim fittings around the handle. Once the armrest is
unattached, you can remove the door panel. For most cars, you'll find the panel
fastened by a few screws and friction fittings. With the screws removed, begin
prying off the door panel at the bottom corner. Use a panel tool (available from
Crutchfield) or, if you don't have one on hand, two putty knives can also do the
trick. Once you loosen the bottom and sides, the panel should hang from some
trim at the window well. Simply lift up on the trim, and the panel should come
free.

install
The arm rest removes easily by taking out a few screws and some trim fittings.
4. How to Troubleshoot audio system products.
Diagnosing Audio System Problems
A distributed audio system is a series of audio devices that are connected to one another
over structured wiring. The parts of the distributed audio system that can cause audio
performance problems are all of the components (including the speakers) and the cabling
that connects the speakers and controls to the source devices. So, when you get a call that
there is a problem with the audio system, gather as much information as possible and be
sure to listen and analyze what the homeowners are saying. For example, if they say there
is no sound or an improperly functioning control device, the obvious place to start tracking
down the problem is by checking the source devices. Start with checking the components,
the connections, and the parts of the system related or connected to the structured wiring
system—oh, and check the power too!

Review the audio system configuration and identify all equipment components and how they
are connected. The line diagram completed earlier in the project is an excellent reference
for this information. Use a structured step-by-step troubleshooting process that includes at
least these steps:

 CROSS- See Chapter 16 for information and examples of an audio system line
REFERENCE diagram.

1. Identify the problem


2. Start troubleshooting at the audio source
3. Use a methodical approach
4. Eliminate components one at a time as the source of the problem
5. Refer to the manufacturer’s documentation for troubleshooting suggestions specific
to a particular component.

The detail steps performed within this framework should include most of these steps:

o Ruling out the obvious


o Checking all connecting cables
o Checking all control devices inline with the suspected components
o Checking that the connection is the correct type for the equipment in use
Rule Out the Obvious
As obvious as it may seem, make sure that all of the connections are secure and fit
properly, including the alternating current (AC) connection on the amplifier and any other
source devices related to the problem. Make sure all components have power, especially if
they are powered through a surge protector.

Check the speakers to make sure that all of the connections are secure. See if only one or
both of the stereo speakers are not working. If only one is not working, check the
connections throughout the distributed audio system that deliver the signal to that channel.
If both speakers are not working, check the connections on both channels throughout the
system and look closely at the connections from the source equipment

Also check the volume controls, both at the source and in the affected room or zone. a room
or zone volume control can’t increase the volume if the source device’s volume is set low.
Another quick test of the audio is to plug a portable speaker directly into the source device.
If the sound is available from the portable speaker, then the problem is likely in one or more
of the distributed audio cables or speakers.

Check the Cable


As is the case with all distributed cabling systems, there is a short list of cable problem
causes, including:

o A broken connector caused by someone tripping over a connector cable


o Corroded connections caused by too much moisture in a wall or room
o Stretched or broken conductors caused by too much pull tension during installation
o An audio cable that was damaged during installation

Your diagnostics should be organized to identify and isolate these common problems.

In most cases, the best way to test audio or video cables is to test the input or output levels
of the cable with a signal from one of the system devices on the cable. For example, to
check the cable connecting a CD-player, play a CD and test the cable at the speaker
terminations where it connects to a volume control or the speakers. By far the most
common audio video cable problem is an open circuit, which most commonly occurs at the
cable ends.

Cable Properties

The three properties that should be tested, usually with a good quality multimeter, on an
audio cable (or any cable for that matter) are:

o CapacitanceCable capacitance is a common problem on audio lines that are more


than 100 feet or 30 meters in length. If the capacitance is too high, it may interfere
with systems that have high impedance. Use a handheld multimeter or a cable test
device to determine the capacitance of the cable. If the capacitance is too high for
the device to which it is connected, consider replacing the cable with one that is
rated at less than 100 picofarads per foot pF/ft).
o InductanceHigh inductance can affect audio by changing the tone of the sound
during transmission. Inductance can vary depending on the cables are installed and
whether they are coiled or looped. A coiled up cable will typically have higher
inductance than an uncoiled cable. The best way to correct inductance is to ensure
that the length of the cable between two devices is appropriate and without
unnecessary loops or coils. Some systems also have inductor circuits built-in to
block certain frequencies in an audio signal; for example, the crossover in a woofer
may “roll-off” higher frequency sounds. If the audio is distorted in this situation, the
problem may be in the crossover and not the cable.
o Resistance (impedance)Depending on the needs of a specific audio system, if the
resistance is too high, the audio signal may be decreased in quality, especially at the
speakers. Impedance is how much a cable impacts the flow of current through the
wire and is measured in ohms. Systems are either high impedance or low
impedance, but low impedance systems are typically in the range of 150-ohms to
800-ohms and high impedance is generally in the range of a few kilo-ohms to tens of
kilo-ohms. Residential systems are typically low impedance devices and the rule of
thumb is to assume output impedance at around 1 kilo-ohm (K-ohm). The speakers
and other distributed components of an audio system should be matched for
resistance and impedance.

To troubleshoot the audio visual (AV) system for resistance, perform these checks:

o Check all connectors and connections for improper installation, loose shielding, stray
strands, or damage.
o Check the cable for continuity using a volt-ohm meter (VOM) or multimeter.
o Check any cables that terminate at the distribution panel from the end of the cable
terminated at a wall outlet. The resistance of the cable should be close to that of the
terminator or the device connecting to the outlet.
o If RG6 cable is installed, use a multimeter or VOM to check the resistance between
the center conductor and the shielding in the cable. If the resistance is below 100 K-
ohms, it is likely that the cable has a short in it at some point and should be replaced.

Cable Verification

If you suspect that a problem may exist in the distributed audio cabling, you should perform
the same cable tests you performed to test and verify the cable during trim-out:

o Visually inspect the terminations at the distribution panel, at the source device, and
at the outlets. Depending on the type of cable in use, check to see that the connector
or jack is properly attached.
o Coaxial cablingIs the connector’s wire mesh inserted around the outer channel of the
connector body? Is the center conductor wire extending the proper distance (about -inch)
beyond the front of the connector? If the connector is a crimp-on type, is the connector
tightly crimped to the cable? Is the screw-on collar (on an F-type connector) properly
aligned and tightly connected?
o Speaker wireAre the wire conductors in contact when they connect to the outlet jack (a
condition that may exist if too much insulation was stripped from the wire)? Are the jacks
securely fastened to the conductors?
o Twisted-pair (TP) If RCA or mini-plug jacks are in use, is the wire pair insulation
preventing the two conductors from touching at the jack. If a balanced interface is in use,
is the connection providing a ground line?
o Commercial audio cablingWhen using a manufactured audio cable set, are the
connectors firmly attached to the cable without breaks, cracks, or splits between the
connector plug or jack and the cable?
o If the connector jacks and plugs are good, next test the cable for its transmission
properties.
o Ground Loops

o Another common problem that is typically attributed to cabling is a ground loop that
can create a humming noise in the audio playback. A ground loop is caused when
two or more AC powered devices that are connected to the electrical system on two
different outlets in two different rooms are linked to one another with an audio cable
and part of the AC power flows over the cable.

o Solving ground loops is not an easy task because there are no absolute grounding
systems. Solving this problem may require assistance from an electrician to balance
the grounding of the outlets in use or, if an unbalanced line is in use, the installation
of a balanced audio interface.

o Check the Controls


o Distributed volume controls and selector controls can and do go bad, but not often.
In most cases, if a volume control is not properly responding to changes in its
setting, the problem is either the connection or the volume control itself.

o Remove the control from its outlet, assuming it is not a remote control, and check its
connections carefully. Also check the wiring where it comes into the outlet box or
structured wiring bracket. If the wire is bent or kinked that could very well be the
issue. If the connections appear to be proper, replace the control with a new one. If
this solves the problem, then the control was bad. However, if the problem persists,
then you should check the cabling both before and after the control.

o Balanced Versus Unbalanced


o Beyond the obvious, such as the source device being unplugged, AC power can
cause audio problems, especially if the speaker interface is unbalanced. There are
two types of audio interfaces used in audio systems: unbalanced and balanced.

o Unbalanced Interface

o An unbalanced interface is typically installed on a single conductor shielded wire,


such as a solid core conductor cable like coaxial cable. The shielding around the
wire serves to ground not only the cable, but also the two devices connected to it,
typically an amplifier and a speaker, but could also include a microphone or other
audio source device. Unbalanced cabling is typically terminated with RCA or mini-
plug connectors.
o The problem with an unbalanced interface, especially one of some run length, is that
it is very susceptible to picking up what is called ground loop interference that can
add hum or buzz to the audio playback by a speaker.

Ground loop interference is a common characteristic of shielded copper wire. Removing the
cause, the cable’s shielding, isn’t the way to solve it. However, it can be removed with an
isolation transformer. While all systems that use an unbalanced interface are likely to have
ground loop interference problems, on smaller systems, it’s typically not much of a problem.
However, in a high-end system that includes some professional level audio or video equipment,
either the cabling should be replaced or an isolation transformer installed.

Balanced Interface

Professional and better audio devices are connected using balanced cabling, constructed to
minimize the amount of interference they pick up. A balanced cable has the built-in capability
to pass along the audio signal and filter out interference.

A balanced cable includes two 24-gauge conductors to carry signals plus a grounding wire.
Several manufacturers produce a variety of balanced cabling. Balanced cabling is typically
terminated with an XLR connector. The balance in this type of audio cable is achieved by
maintaining the impedance of the two signal lines equal to that of the ground. However,
balanced audio also works on ungrounded cabling as well with the right equipment.

5. What is DVR, VCD & DVD Player and give its difference
DVR
Stands for “Digital Video Recorder.” A DVR is basically a VCR that uses a hard drive instead
of video tapes. It can be used to record, save, and play back television programs. Unlike a
VCR, however, a DVR can also pause live TV by recording the current show in real time. The
user can choose to fast forward (often during commercials) to return to live television.
VCD
A video compact disc (VCD) is a digital video format used for storing video on standard
compact discs. Video compact discs can be played on dedicated video compact disc players,
personal computers and other players such as DVD players. After enjoying a brief period of
popularity, they have lost their popularity to other formats, although VCD still continues as
an option for low-cost video formats.
DVD
DVD or Digital Video Disk or Digital Versatile Disk is a an optical storage disc format that lets
CD sized disks store vast amounts of information. Because of the quantity of information a
DVD disk can store and the speed with which DVD players can retrieve the data.

DIFFERENCE
- VCD→ Video CD is an optical digital video format that lets CD sized disks hold
about 70 minutes of video. Video CD quality is about the same as VHS. Because
of the limited amount of data a Video CD disk can hold, Video CD disks do not
have the range of features that DVD disks have.
DVD →DVD disks can hold over two hours of high-quality digital video and offer a host of other
features including :
 
● Support for standard or wide screen video formats.
● Multiple tracks of high-quality digital audio.
● Multiple camera angles.
● Interactive games.
● On screen menus 

DVR→ DVR systems process the video data at the recorder.


6. Give the Parts of DVD Player
The parts of a DVD player are

1. Disc drive mechanism


The disc drive mechanism consists of a motor that will drive the disc in a circular motion.
The mechanism will also have a disc feed – a loading tray that is used to accept the DVD
from the user. Thus the entire disc drive is basically a spindle that holds the disc and a
motor that is used to circle the disc. The spindle is held in its position with the help of
small gears and belts that are attached internally. Some players have an automatic feed
system in which, there will be no tray. Instead the disc will be automatically recognized
after inserting a part of it.

2. Optical system
The optical system mainly consists of the laser beam, lenses, prism, photo-detectors and
also mirrors. The output of this mechanism will be the input for the disc-drive. The laser
beam will be a red laser diode which works at a wavelength of 600 nanometers. The
optical system also requires a motor to drive it. The laser system and photo-detector is
placed together on a single platform. The laser diode as well as other diodes is made
with the help of glass.

3. Printed Circuit Board


The PCB is similar to that of any other electronic circuits. The electronic outline must be
drawn on the PCB with the correct placement of all the IC’s resistors as well as
capacitors. After the outline has been drawn, the components must be soldered to their
respective places. All this must be done in a very clean environment so that the board
does not become contaminated by dust. All the primary components of the electronic
circuit should be made out of silicon.
7. How to do a Fault Isolation
Fault Management is one of the key requirements of network management. A fault is
different from an error because it is an abnormal condition that requires management
attention and repair. Problems that results in faults could be caused by a bad firmware,
a bad hardware, or a bad network. Each of these problems requires a different response
from the network manager. Thus the goal is to determine the exact location of the fault
and to get the attention of the network administrators as quickly as possible.

8. Give a block diagram of the DVD player

In the table below, give as many as you can the symptoms, troubles found in DVD
Player System and its remedy/s for the symptoms and trouble found.
Most Common DVD Player Won’t Play Errors

1. DVD player is not spinning or DVD player spins but stops


2. DVD player won’t read/recognize/load discs
3. Wrong region with the DVD player
4. DVD player says no disc or unknown discs
5. DVD looks bad/blurry on HDTV or 4K TVs
6. DVD plays with no sound, no picture or no subtitles on TV
7. Jerky and choppy playback on DVD players
8. DVD player won’t play some DVDs (like commercial discs)

Whatever the problem is, the culprits and therefore the fixes are quite similar. Try the
DVD player troubleshooting tips below.

Fix 1. Check if the optical disc drive is dirty or broken


Dust is always the culprit for most DVD player not read/load errors. Dust around the
laser will block the player to read the disc data via the laser beam. Check closely into the DVD
drive and if you notice any dust, you’re suggested to get a DVD cleaner – a disc with little
brushes on it. Or you may need to disassemble the DVD player and wipe the lens gently with
90% isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip or other proper solution/cotton.

DVD player not working might be a sign that the disc tray, tray motor or laser is worn
out. To fix any of the DVD hardware, you need to open the housing and check the inside with
special tools. If you don’t know how to fix them, send the DVD player to the repair store nearby
and replace the disc drive if necessary.

Fix 2. Check if the DVD disc is damaged


Heavily used discs have caused many of the most common DVD player problems, for
example, the DVD player reading errors as well as jerky/choppy DVD playback. Take the disc out
of the player and visually check if there are any scratches on it, or play the DVD in another DVD
player. Before you throw the scratched DVD away and buy a new one, fix the scratched DVD
using toothpaste or convert the scratched DVD to digital files to play smoothly on TV/PC.

Fix 3. Check if the cables are connected correctly


Bad DVD player connection will cause problems like DVD player no sound or no picture
on the TV, or TV plays DVD in black and white without no color, other color errors. Be careful
with the component video(3 RCA) and composite video (1 RCA) input, and match the colors in
the right way. If you’re using S-video cables, check if the cables are in good condition. Replace
the cables if necessary.

Fix 4. Check if the DVD is region-coded


If the DVD player can’t recognize a DVD, says wrong disc, DVD player won’t play some
DVDs, or when you see messages like Sony – Error: Playing Of This Disc Prohibited By Area
Limits, the errors are mainly caused by region codes or newer copy protections. DVD players,
computers, Xbox One, and all the disc drives support certain region code only. For example, you
can’t play a UK DVD on DVD players from the US (except region-free DVD players). Also, some
older DVD players won’t support the latest DVD copy protections. Therefore, you will need to
remove the region codes or protections first.

Fix 5. Check if the TV settings are correct


There are some DVD player not working problems that are caused by incorrect settings
on the TV. For example:

* DVD color errors: TV has component and composite video. The settings on the TV
should match the input selection.
* Jerky DVD playback: In most cases, wrong field order is the main cause for freezes and
stutters when playing a DVD on TV. Don’t mix up the TFF and BFF.
* Wrong aspect ratios: If the DVD is stretched on a TV, be careful with the playback
settings. You can check the aspect ratio of the DVD on the cover and select the right settings for
it, normally 16:9 or 4:3.

Answer Above↑
Symptoms Troubles Remedy/s

Note: You may add the column and raw if necessary. The more symptoms trouble and remedy
the better, more points to gain.

You can pass your work in our gmail account on or before May 22, 2021, you can gain
higher points in that date.

NOTE:
Please Do Research for the details in the web for some
additional information you need.
Give the site reference you are using for answering the
questions.

Prepared by:

MATT EDISON G. ALCANTARA


Subject Instructor

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