BTT Emagazine July 2021-1

BDT 200, USD 10 | www.textiletoday.com.
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Bangladesh
July 2021 in
Year
ISSN 1999-2076
An Innovation Hub Reg. 8/2012
Unveiling industry best practices

challenges
Framing to face
after shifting from
LDC
Issue 07 | 112 Pages |
Apparel accessories & fashion

July 2021
Volume 14 |
Bangladesh’s T&A
industry has real Iconic and visionary leader
prospect as the greenest
sourcing destination
Kihak Sung’s
dream project ‘KEPZ’
July 2021
See at page 35 See at page 21 See at page 17
See at page 13 See at page 31 See at page 27 Textile Today Innovation Meets
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An Innovation Hub
Editorial Panel
Editor in Chief
Prof. Md. Monirul Islam
et
Executive Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan
r k
Ma ader BIOLASE APC
Le
Technical Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman
COMBINED ENZYMATIC
SCOURING
Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak)
Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim
BIO-POLISHING
Consulting Editor
Dr. NN Mahapatra
Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz
C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
Ashfaque Ahmed
Associate Editor
IN SAME BATH
Jamal Abdun Naser
Boost up Knit Pre Treatment &

Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher)
Save
Eousup Novee
Managing Editor
Akhi Akter
Sub Editor
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Technical Team
Co-ordinator
Setara Begum
Member
S.N. Abdullah
Amzad Hossain Monir
Editor & Publisher

A.S.M Tareq Amin
Published on 28th July 2021 by

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Volume 14, Issue 07 (July 2021)
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July 2021
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ISSN 1999-2076
An Innovation Hub Reg. 8/2012
challenges
On the Cover
Framing to face
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Issue 07 | 112 Pages |
An Innovation Hub
Volume 14 |
ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf
Content
Bangladesh’s T&A
industry has real Iconic and visionary leader
GmbH & Co. KG is a well known

prospect as the greenest
Kihak Sung’s
dream project ‘KEPZ’

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July’ 21 | Volume 14 | Issue 07
12 Editorial 24-25 News and Analysis 32-33 Opinion

FY21: Hot off the press T&A sectors need more financial
assistance and investment to be
14-15 Cover Story more competitive globally
Deepening economic cooperation

and integration in BIMSTEC
34 Collaboration
Today
Bangladesh’s T&A industry has real prospect as the greenest
16-18 Top Story Textile World

26
FDI declines though local Turkish textiles stepping
investment roars during ahead to grip stronger
pandemic position in global market SEZ signs a consultancy
agreement with Japan
19-23 Cover Plus 28-29 In Focus
Development Institute
Framing to face challenges

after shifting from LDC 38-40 Exclusive
Interview
29 Export Updates
Bangladesh sets target to earn
$35.14 bn from RMG sector in FY22
37
RMG exports to USA grew
by 15.38% in Jan-May
Buyer’s confidence about our overall

30 Trade and Biz business process leads to get 30%
more order during pandemic
Iconic and visionary leader Kihak Bangladesh home-textile export
Sung’s dream project ‘KEPZ’ sees a boom in FY 2020-21
Tel. +880-2-2222 61638 Email. bangladesh.sales@clarke-energy.com
www.clarke-energy.com
Content July’ 21 | Volume 14 | Issue 07
Apparel Today Spinning Today TexTIMe
45-47 Opinion 63-65 Fiber Today 81-84 TexTIMe

MMF import amount (In tons)
MMF {Polyester staple fiber (PSF), viscose
staple fiber (VSF)} mills in Bangladesh MMF market share
(in $ billion)
Episode 7
Viscose staple fiber (VSF)
MMF market
Polyester staple fiber (PSF) VSF PSF
120000 400
40 40 40 400
102219 99345 40 35
100000 350
35 33
78208 30 30 300
80000 72504
30 26
25 250
25
20 200 190
60000 20
40278 150
40000 15
29146 100
10
20000 5 50
0 0
0 Year 2019 Year 2025
Year 2016 Year 2018 Year 2020
Year 2016 Year 2017 Year 2018 Year 2019 Year 2020
Bangladesh's fabric supplying trend Global demand

BDT 12.02 bn
MMF import in Jan
to May 2021
25.86 22
MMF import grew
74.14
45.72% -
by
78
99,597 tons in
Jan to May 2021
Cotton fabric MMF
Cotton fiber MMF
Manmade fiber: a potential

Why technological innovations prospect for BD RMG industry
are imperative to enhance Working together to
competitiveness and regain exports
businesses sustainability 66 Cotton Today
85-87 TexTIMe
Episode 9
52-54 Young
Leadership
Recognizing sustainability in
the new context
Levi Strauss & Co and their
legacy brands join U.S. Cotton
Trust Protocol as new members 88-90 TexTIMe
Episode 8
68-69 Cotton Today

Innovative ways of marketing
Record volume of organic
and branding are key to boost
cotton grown in 2019-20
the business
55 Technology 70-72 Fiber Today Creating competitive

Today advantage for RMG
Advance technologies to solve Carbon fiber: World’s largest
basic problems of BD RMG technical textile sector
industry (part-ii)
91-92 TexTIMe
Episode 6
73-74 Spinning Today
LENA and CROCOdoff
56-58 Q&A – The perfect match for

efficient spinning
Recently textile
today asked
RMG industry 78 Trade and Biz Professional Development:
experts about the Bangladesh moving for jute
Industry should stimulate it
for themselves
implications of the mills privatization by this year
government’s move
to impose lockdown.
Editorial
FY21: Hot off the press

Akhi Akter
Time flies so fast, the Fiscal Year 2020 is over and Worry to fix supply chain difficulty: The COVID-19
Bangladesh textile and apparel industry survived outbreak led to supply chain disruption, still, the
tackling the fallout that arose due to COVID 19. If I global textile industry is facing a mountain load of
want to depict a year review many things can come challenges. Though Bangladesh has to get back a
into consideration, however, I want only to portray huge amount of lost work orders, however, for lack of
few burning points that were the talk of the industry proper infrastructure, logistic and transport support the
throughout the year. industry could not grab the expected fruits. The textile
and apparel leaders are working in collaboration with
A dismal apparel export: Readymade garment the government to solve the barriers.
(RMG) export fetched $31.45 billion in the just-
concluded fiscal year. Though this is a 12.5 percent
year-on-year growth, however, it is 7.84 percent
negative growth compared to FY 19 which fetched Leaders stressed incentives for
$34.1 billion worth of export. the products made with MMF. As
As for the apparel export product category it is a good way to add value to the
performance, the less export of woven garments
country’s textile and apparel items.
contributes to the export loss that was $17.2 billion
in FY19 declined to $14.0 billion in FY 20 and $14.4 Which has the potential to fetch
billion in FY 21. However, apparel export in FY 21 was an additional $2 billion annually if
satisfactory as the global market passing a volatile
circumstance. nurtured.
Green: We know BGMEA wins the ‘2021 USGBC
Leadership Award’ by the U.S. Green Building Council
(USGBC) for contributions to sustainable, healthy,
Technology: Technology has come out as a stronger
equitable and resilient buildings and communities.
tool to survive during this COVID time. From sample
The industry has undergone tremendous development to product showcase, in every aspect
transformation in the last couple of years. The safety utilization of technology has emerged as the way
revolution has been done through the collaboration forward tool for the industry.
of global brands and retailers, manufacturers,
In the new normal scenario, global online marketing
government, ILO, development partners, several
platforms gained traction. From Bangladesh’s aspect
national and global unions.
global online marketing platform Alibaba gets
The green transformation comes at a cost, and it is gigantic popularity for small to big companies to
manufacturers rightful demand to get more ethical grow their business in the global market.
prices for their products from their buyers. In contrast
Manmade fiber: Sector leaders emphasizing going
the buyers are squeezing prices of apparel endlessly.
for non-cotton apparel item making. In this regard,
Cooperation: An unprecedented collaboration was they are encouraging more and more investment in
seen among different textile, apparel and accessories producing manmade fiber locally. Leaders also demanded
associations including BGMEA, BKMEA, BTMA, incentives for the
Author:
BGAPMEA, etc. which symbolizes an integrated products made
textile and apparel industry to grow together for with MMF. They
sustainable business. are highlighting it
as a good way to
Government cooperation to assist the sector during add value to the
the ongoing COVID crisis was highly praised by the country’s textile
sector leaders. The Parliament passed a budget and apparel items.
for fiscal 2021-22 on June 28 which did not meet Which has the
fully the demand made by the textile and garment potential to fetch
manufacturers and exporters. However, the textile an additional $2 Akhi Akter
and garment manufacturers welcomed the budget as billion annually if Managing Editor, Textile Today
the new tax was not imposed. we nurture.
An Innovation Hub
12 Bangladesh Textile Today | July 2021

Cover Story
Bangladesh’s T&A industry has

real prospect as the greenest
Textile Today Analysis
The fashion industry and its supply chain is known T&A entrepreneurs, the US Green Building Council's
for their pollution. In the past, countries with rich (USGBC) Leadership in Energy and Environmental
textile manufacturing history have shifted from this Design (LEED) version 4.1 acts as an outstanding
industry due to uncontrolled mass pollution. Making global rating system that prizes best practices and
the world prone to global catastrophes. innovations and certifies buildings with different
levels of LEED certification.
Amid this bleak reputation, Bangladesh’s textile and
ready-made garment (RMG) industry is a model The rating system contains of a total 110 points
exception. Its textile and RMG by striking a balance across seven criteria and reviews a factory’s green
between growth and sustainability by building initiatives such as sustainable site development,
"green factory building". water efficiency, energy and atmosphere
conservation, materials selection and resources,
To better recognize and inspire the struggles of
indoor environmental quality, innovation, regional
priority and integrative process credits.
Each principle has a set of parameters with different

points, and to get those points, the green factory
building has to fulfill the requirements of the set
144 LEED- 39 world's top 40 Platinum parameters. A report shows that LEED-certified
Certified 100 factories buildings across the world have saved $1.2 billion
factories in energy, $149.5 million in water, $715.3 million in
maintenance, and $54.2 million in waste.
Figure: Bangladesh has total of 144 USGBC LEED Green
certified factories.
At present, Bangladesh has 144 LEED-certified
An Innovation Hub

Cover Story
Top 10 rated factories of Bangladesh T&A industry

Project Name Points Level Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers
1 Remi Holdings Ltd 97 Platinum and Exporters Association (BGMEA)
2 Tarasima Apparels Limited 93 Platinum – as the leading body of RMG ensures
3 Plummy Fashions Ltd 92 Platinum
a seamless ethical approach is being
4 Mithela Textile Industries Ltd 91 Platinum
met. The association has received the
5 Vintage Denim Studio Ltd 90 Platinum
6 AR. Jeans Producer Limited 90 Platinum
‘2021 USGBC Leadership Award’ by the
7 Karooni Knit Composite Ltd 90 Platinum U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC).
8 Designer Fashion Ltd 89 Platinum
sector is the backbone of its economic success story.
9 Kenpark 2 88 Platinum
This comes on the spinal of the sector’s speedy
10 Green Textile Limited Unit 3 88 Platinum
growth and transformation over the past decade—
as well as the steps it has made
exemplary working conditions for
2015-18 data showing global LEED certified buildings savings
the country’s roughly four million
garment workers.
$1.2 bn The better quality of the

environment does not only lessen
energy saving woes of workers with asthma
and respiratory allergies, but also
$149.5 mn brightens the work spirit and boosts
water saving
$715.3 retention rate and productivity.
mn It has made remarkable progress

in terms of environmental
maintenance
$54.2 mn saving
sustainability, safe workplace, R&D
and ethical business practices.
Bangladesh has been placed
waste saving second on a list compiled by
supply chain compliance solutions
factories – 39 of them among the world's top 100. provider Qima comparing the
A total of 40 green factories are platinum certified ethical auditing practices of major manufacturing countries.
with a performance score of up to 100 points. 500
more factories are in the process of getting LEED
Some benefits of LEED certified buildings
certification.
These LEED-certified factory buildings are Emits 50% less Reduce workers
greenhouse gases sufferings
immaculately environment friendly in planning,
than conventional of asthma &
design, construction and operation, which cut or
buildings respiratory allergies
abolish negative impacts, create positive effects
as well as externalities and improve quality of life
through its lifetime.
Produces 48% Cleaner air circulation,
Since Bangladesh is in the driver's seat of leadership less solid waste more daylight access,
in sustainability, it is certainly a creditable approach less pollution, harm-
of consolidating environmental, social and corporate 5% less in free chemical paints &
governance as well as achieving leadership in global transportation finishing
business sustainability.
Green factory building is a praiseworthy approach of
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters
strengthening environmental, social and corporate
Association (BGMEA) – as the leading body of RMG
governance as well as attaining leadership in global
ensures a seamless ethical approach is being met.
business sustainability.
The association has been selected as one of the
recipients of the ‘2021 USGBC Leadership Award’ by The country's T&A industry has the true prospect to
the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC). be the greenest sourcing destination for the global
apparel brands and retailers.
In addition, Bangladesh’s textile and apparel (T&A)
An Innovation Hub
Bangladesh Textile Today | July 2021 15

To p S t o r y
FDI declines though

local investment roars
during pandemic
Though Bangladesh received 11%

less Foreign Direct Investment
(FDI) in 2020 amid a global
INVESTMENT IN TEXTILE
decline, local investors showed
a handsome performance in
SECTOR IN FY20 AND FY21
investment. Textile entrepreneurs
have come out with a huge COMPANY INVESTMENT Textile sector attracted
(in crore taka) Tk4,250cr investments
investment to boost production
during pandemic
capacity and adopt new Makson Group 1000
technology. The growing export SIM Group 250 Investments aim at
demand of the country's apparel expanding,
To generate
New Asia Group 213 modernizing
sector led to the investment boost. 6,000 jobs
production facilities
DBL Group 562
According to a recent report Shasha Denim 121 Export orders increased
published on a prominent media, sharply as COVID
Envoy Textile 87 effects weakened in
textile entrepreneurs invested Europe, US
worth about $500 million (over Pride Group 80
BDT4,200 crore) – highest in Far Group 62.58 Demand for
manmade fibers
a decade – are in progress to Square Textile 30 rising in international
expand and modernize production market
facilities to meet the growing
demand mostly of manmade fiber
in the international market. trade tensions between the US The new investments are expected to
and China have encouraged local generate employment opportunities
While the World Investment entrepreneurs to invest in some for about 6,000 people.
Report (WIR) 2021 of UNCTAD value-added yarn and fabrics.
revealed, FDI downed in South According to Mohammad
Asian economies that depend As a backward linkage, the textile Ali Khokon, President of
on the readymade garment sector lags in the production of the Bangladesh Textile Mills
(RMG) exporting, the investment blended yarn and fabrics like Association (BTMA), almost
done by the Bangladesh textile polyester, synthetic, viscose and every factory is now investing in
entrepreneurs are remarkable. lycra (known as man-made fiber). BMRE – balancing, modernization,
Bangladesh has to import these rehabilitation and expansion.
As the pandemic has weakened kinds of yarns and fabrics to meet
in Europe and the United States the demand of buyers. Referring to the increased demand
– two major destinations of for textile products, including
Bangladeshi apparel –the demand Meanwhile, Bangladesh's cotton and manmade fabrics,
for readymade garments is competitor countries have been Mohammad Ali Khokon said,
returning to the pre-COVID level. upgrading their technology for "Currently, my factory has daily
producing these products. This export orders of 100 tons of
Many textile manufacturers are also has made entrepreneurs in the fabrics while we can produce only
now overwhelmed with export local textile sector invest heavily 60 tons."
orders, which they will not be able in modernizing factories and
to complete in time by using their increasing production capacity. Apart from local entrepreneurs,
current capacity. In addition, the foreign investors are also coming
An Innovation Hub

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TEXTILE
Colour
To p S t o r y J u t e To d a y
up with announcements of setting lags far behind its competitors in including manmade fiber. The new
up factories in the country for the making manmade fibers. initiative requires about Tk186 crore.
production of man-made fabric.
Makson Group, one of the top 10 Top officials of DBL expressed the
The renowned Korean industrial spinning mills in the country, has hope that the new units will go
conglomerate Youngone – the announced that it is investing around into production by the end of this
owner of the Korean Export Tk1,000 crore in three new spinning year, creating job opportunities for
Processing Zone – announced units in Mirsarai Economic Zone. around 2,000 people.
earlier this year that it would
invest $200 million in producing Metro Spinning Limited, a concern The New Asia Group has
manmade fabric. of the group, will invest Tk340 crore announced an investment of Tk213
in a unit, while Maksons Spinning crore to expand its production
According to the BTMA, more Mills will pour Tk254 crore and capacity and modernize technology.
than 433 spinning mills were in Tk348 crore into two other units,
operation in Bangladesh in 2020, according to company insiders. HR textile, a concern of Pride
which had a combined production Group, has plans to invest Tk80
capacity of 3,270 million kilograms In the manner of Maksons Group, crore to expand its capacity.
of yarn per year. Envoy Group, New Asia Group, They will expand their capacity in
DBL Group, Pride Group, ShaSha sustainable production, as global
Local spinners can supply nearly Group have decided to make huge buyers are moving towards more
85-90% of the required yarn and investments during the pandemic. environment-friendly products in
fabrics for knitwear. In the case of terms of consumption of energy,
woven fabrics, local weavers can Another large exporter in the water and chemicals.
supply below 40% of the requirement. apparel sector, DBL Group, has
Because of this, the woven garment decided to invest Tk562 crore Shasha Denim has already invested
industry has remained dependent on in capacity expansion. The Tk50 crore in purchasing land
foreign fabric. conglomerate has plans to expand for its expansion to produce
the dyeing and finishing capacity sustainable products. It is planning
Of all garment items produced of its Hamza Textile Mill- unit 2. to produce more high-value
globally, 78% made from manmade For this purpose, the International products by using existing capacity.
fibers while cotton fiber accounts Finance Corporation has allocated Besides, the company is also in the
for the rest, according to data Tk376 crore. process of setting up a new plant
from the International Textile for recycling yarn spinning and an
Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) – a The industrial group has also set eco-friendly washing plant. The new
Switzerland-based platform for global up a new unit at Matin Spinning project will involve an investment of
textile makers. However, Bangladesh Mills to produce specialized yarn, about $50 million.
Jute and jute goods export earnings reached $1bn

Staff Correspondent
Export earnings from jute and jute mills of Bangladesh Jute Mill
products reached $1.06 billion in Corporation (BJMC) will be resumed
the last 11 months. Textiles and under private management based
Jute Minister Golam Dastagir Gazi on lease soon.
recently said that at the signing
The workers who lost jobs for
ceremony of the 'Integrity Award,
the closure of the mills will get
2020-21' and Annual Performance
job opportunities on a priority
Agreement for the next financial
basis when the mills would be re-
year, 2021-22 for the departments
launched, he said.
or agencies under the ministry.
"At the same time, these
The Minister said, "This export Figure: Export earnings from jute and jute
will create new employment products reached $1.06 billion in the last
earning is 33.2% higher than the 11 months.
opportunities for the skilled
same period last year and 2.57%
workers. All workers must be
more than the target," adding that minister said the government
rehabilitated in phases," Gazi said.
jute is the second-main export is working to ensure the best
trade of Bangladesh. Mentioning the jute as one of use of this jute as Bangladesh
the most important sectors traditionally produces the best
Dastagir Gazi also said the closed
of Bangladesh's economy, the quality jute in the world.
An Innovation Hub

Iconic and
visionary
leader Kihak
Sung’s dream
project ‘KEPZ’
South Korean firm Youngone Corporation started its journey in Bangladesh
only with 250 workers back in 1980, now it has 70000 world-class workers.
Currently, Youngone Group’s annual turnover is $2.3 billion, one-third of them
comes from Bangladesh. Besides textiles, Youngone has other ventures as well.
Akhi Akter, Managing Editor, Textile Today
Korean Export Processing Zone (KEPZ) – the first

and biggest private Export Processing Zone (EPZ) in
Bangladesh, is growing fast with massive production
activities contributing to socio-economic development.
Youngone Corporation (owner of the KEPZ), is one

of the country’s leading foreign private investors, was
allocated 2492 acres of land for setting up the EPZ on
the bank of the Karnaphuli under Paschim Patiya and
Anowara Upazilas in Chittagong district back in 1999.
However, the journey of investment began long ago. Figure 1: Youngone’s private Export Processing Zone (EPZ) ‘the
Korean Export Processing Zone’ (KEPZ) in Bangladesh is the global
Back in 1980, Kihak Sung, Chairman and Founder of standard of incorporating nature and state-of-the-art factories.
Youngone Corporation set up a small factory with 250
Chittagong in the early 1980s, they imported raw fibers
female workers in Agrabad, Chattogram. It was the first
such as polyester for carding and processing, then
foreign investor in the Bangladesh apparel industry,
filled them into nylon outerwear for export in volume
also one of the pioneers of women’s employment.
to the Swedish markets.
Then in 1987, Youngone moved to Chattogram Export
In late ’80s, Youngone manufactured polyester padding
Processing Zone. During their first investment in
for winter garments and supplying it to garment
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Figure 4: KEPZ invested a great deal in improving the environment

of the KEPZ – planting 400,000 more trees and created an
additional reservoir with 200 million gallons of water.
from the Department of Environment (DoE) in

November 2009 and now the KEPZ area is an ideal
blend between nature and world-class environment-
friendly factories.
Figure 2: KEPZ has so far completed 40 state-of-the-art green
factories with a floor space of over 65,00,000 sft. Among the total 2492 acres of land, 52% of the
land has been re-forested. 2.5 million trees over four
factories in Chattogram. That was one of the first hundred species were growing over 822 acres of land.
manmade fiber (MMF) backward linkage industries in 470 acres are kept for open areas. 25 artificial lakes,
Bangladesh. which hold up to 500 million gallons of monsoon water
annually. Youngone also built 38KM of eco-friendly
By late 1990s, Youngone started supplying raw
road network, 32KM overhead power distribution line,
materials including nylon and polyester fabrics to
8KM gas distribution network, two Investors Guest
apparel manufacturers as they had the complete
Houses, etc.
structure of weaving, dyeing, and finishing factories in
“In the past few years alone, KEPZ invested a great
deal in improving the environment of the KEPZ –
planting 300,000 more trees and created an additional
reservoir with 200 million gallons of water. KEPZ has so
far completed 40 state of the art green factories with a
floor space of over 65,00,000 sqft. Endeavors are also
made to construct large factory buildings in the Textile
zone having total floor space of about 2,000,000 sft,
of which 60% have been completed and rest are in
progress. These factories will mainly produce man-
made fiber (MMF) products.”
When fully completed, it would be one of the largest

textile hubs in Bangladesh for the export and supply of
Figure 3: KEPZ is worker-oriented by providing a modern medical
high-quality fabrics to the local garment and apparel
center, fully automated kitchen, canteen, child daycare center,
indoor sports facilities and 3 dormitories accommodating 5400
female workers.
Bangladesh.
Youngone set up the KEPZ under the Bangladesh

Private EPZ Act 1996 and formed a company ‘Korean
EPZ (KEPZ) Corporation (BD) Limited’ to promote,
develop and manage the EPZ.
After getting 2492 acres of barren land from the govt.,

Youngone has transformed the barren land into a
world-class eco-friendly business park not only in the
country but also in the region with the integration of
economic activities, urbanization and environment-
friendly measures.
They got Environment Clearance Certificate (ECC) Figure 5: KEPZ factories will mainly produce MMF-based garments.
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Figure 6: Kihak Sung and his team showed their state-of-the-art production facility to team Textile Today.
exporters as an import substitute and backward million is expected to be complete by October this
linkage. year, in the second phase.
Korean EPZ started implementing a 40 MW rooftop Additional 20MW system – to be set up as an

solar power generation project. It is believed to be the Independent Power Plant (IPP) within a 12-month
largest single rooftop solar power project within the timeframe in phase-3 of the project – awaits approval
industry worldwide. from the government.
In the first stage, a 16MW solar photovoltaic (PV) Kihak Sung’s hard work and vision helped him build
Youngone into an international giant in manufacturing
investing over $1.2 billion.
Most notably, Youngone has – in KEPZ – 25000

highly trained employees. KEPZ is worker-oriented by
providing a modern medical center, fully automated
kitchen, canteen, child daycare center, indoor sports
facilities and 9 dormitories accommodating 5400
female workers, once completed (3 dorms are open).
“Our goal is to make ‘Made in Bangladesh’ the number

one quality in the world. Yes, it is a tough job, as you
need all the support, education system, R&D, know-
how, etc.,” said Kihak Sung in a recent conversation
Figure 7: A 16MW solar photovoltaic (PV) power plant has been with Textile Today.
installed at the expense of $16 million.
KEPZ is not only bringing business to Bangladesh and
contributing to the local employment, also setting a
power plant – which itself is the major ever rooftop
new and high standard of industrial development of
solar PV system in Bangladesh to date – has been
Bangladesh. It is unique as it sets an example of how
installed at the expense of $16 million and inaugurated
industrial zones could be formed and operated in an
20 June.
environmentally sustainable manner.
Work on a 4.3MW system that involves a cost of $4.3
With the support of the government of Bangladesh,
Figure 8: Information Technology zone of the Korean Export Processing Zone (KEPZ) in Chattogram has received the status of a
private hi-tech park, which will be established on 100 acres of land.
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the plan has got its traction and

KEPZ has started building two IT
buildings, amongst other buildings,
a 41-storied building is also planned
to be built to commemorate the
great occasion of Bangladesh
reaching the level of a developed
nation in the year 2041.
In all, it will create working

opportunities for up to 20,000
people when fully implemented.
Youngone Corporation is a publicly

listed Korea-based company
(market cap of US$ 1.9 billion). It is
a leading global manufacturer of
outdoor/athletic clothing, textile,
footwear and gear, has business
operations and manufacturing units
in 14 different countries including
Figure 9: Kihak Sung’s goal is to make ‘Made in Bangladesh’ the number one quality in
Bangladesh, Vietnam, El Salvador the world.
and USA with a workforce of about
90,000. America, Europe and Asia. Also, the Face” within the Korean domestic
Company distributes its products market recognized as the top
Youngone supplies high-end with the trademark “The North outdoor brand in Korea.
products to the markets of North
Compact design for a

competitive performance
Made in Italy
smit@santexrimar.com
www.santexrimar.com
News and Analysis
T&A sectors need more financial

assistance and investment to be
more competitive globally
Leaders in the sectors welcomed the budget for 2021-22
The Parliament passed the finance bill for fiscal 2021-

22 on June 28 without any major changes in the
proposed budget of the year. The government also
did not bring any major change in the finance bill for
the textile and garment sectors.
The textile and garment manufacturers and exporters

demanded some facilities before the budget for
fiscal 2021-22. Both the finance bill and budget itself
did not meet the demand of the textile and garment
manufacturers and exporters.
The sector leaders considered the demand of the

RMG makers as paramount given the current state of
the situation to sustain the COVID battered scenario.
Since the start of the pandemic, apparel items' prices Figure 1: Textile and garment manufacturers and exporters
demanded some facilities before the budget for fiscal 2021-22.
and global consumption fall have squeezed the
profit margin and put the RMG sector under serious chemicals worth $12.50 billion in a year to serve the
pressure while the cost of production is climbing local apparel industry.
nearly 18 percent year by year.
In Bangladesh, some 74 percent of the total export
However, the textile and garment manufacturers of garment items made from cotton fiber and the
welcomed the budget as the new tax was not remaining 26 percent are made from manmade fiber
imposed and for allowing whitening the black and other non-cotton fibers.
money scope with paying 10 percent tax in the
manufacturing sector. However, the global scenario is different. Globally, of
the total fashion industry, some 78 percent are made
Allowing undisclosed money to reinvest in the from non-cotton fiber and the remaining 22 percent
manufacturing sector will increase investment in the made from cotton fiber.
textile and garment sector, said Faruque Hassan,
President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers Most of the countries that make garment items from
and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the leading non-cotton fiber are getting premium prices from
platform for the sector. international retailers and brands.
The BGMEA chief also demanded a 10-year tax However, Bangladesh has not been getting premium
holiday for investments in the manmade fiber (MMF) prices because of cotton-made garment items. For
sector alongside a 10 percent incentive for manmade instance, a t-shirt made from the cotton fiber is sold
fiber-based garment exporters. at $5 per piece but the beginning price of the same T-shirt
if is made from the manmade fiber is $10 per piece.
The garment sector also needs a lot of investment
even during this pandemic time, as the demand for “So, we need more investment in the primary textile
value-added Bangladeshi garment items has been sector so that we can serve more to the local garment
growing worldwide. exporters and manufacturers,” said Mohammad
Ali Khokon, president of Bangladesh Textile Mills
However, most of the demand for raw materials Association (BTMA) in his post-budget reaction.
is met through imports. For instance, Bangladesh
imports raw materials, mainly fabrics, cotton and Currently, the total investment only in the spinning
sector is more than $8billion. More investment will come
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News and Analysis
in the primary textile sector if the government gives

some facilities in the textile sectors, he said. Bangladesh 10-year tax holiday for MMF
needs more investment in non-cotton fiber as the market sector investments
of this kind of segment is very high globally.
The demand for MMF-based garments is growing all

10% incentive for MMF-based
over the world mainly due to being comfortable, durable
exporters
and functional and the ability to protect against cold.
Khokon also said the government should withdraw

Withdrawing 15% advanced
the nearly 15 percent advanced income tax and
income tax & advanced tax on
advanced tax on manmade fiber imports to help
MMF imports
expand the sector.
For example, a more sophisticated section of MMF-

based industries is the filament yarn industry, where TK 3 per kg VAT on non-cotton
it takes at least Tk 500 crore to set up a factory. yarn sales in local markets
Khokon pointed out that Bangladeshi garment

manufacturers used to import a large number of Keeping current 0.50% source
fabrics to make jackets but local mills are now tax & 12% corporate tax for
supplying the high-end textiles required, thanks to non-green & 10% for green
investment in the sector. factories for next 5 years
Figure 2: Demands by RMG and textile millers in FY2021-22 budget.
He demanded Tk3 per kg VAT on sales of non-cotton
yarn in the local markets to match with the cotton
So, the investment is taking place in the primary
yarn VAT amount.
textile sector.
Currently, the cotton yarn sellers enjoy Tk3 per kg
The import of fiber, demand for yarn and fabrics
VAT on sales of yarn but the non-cotton yarn sellers
indicates that the investment is taking place in the
face Tk6 VAT per kg in the local markets.
sector and local investors are importing a lot of
Bangladesh's primary textile sector is undergoing capital machinery to meet the demand.
rapid changes with local millers taking to producing
Shahidullah Azim, Vice-President of the BGMEA,
significant amounts of MMF alongside cotton fibers
urged the continuation of the current source tax at
to meet rising global demand.
0.50 percent and corporate tax at 12 percent for non-
Import of MMF grew a substantial 45.72 percent to green and 10 percent for green garment factories for
reach 99,597 tons in the first five months (January the next five years.
to May) of this year compared to 68,348 tons during
Faruque Hassan stressed that they have already
the corresponding period in 2020, according to data
called for another stimulus package to the
from the BTMA.
government for paying the wages to the workers as
Of the imports, about 61,693 tons were polyester the sector has been going through a tough time.
staple fiber, 32,454 tons viscose staple fiber, and
Leaders of the sector urged the govt. to provide
around 5,450 tons of Tencel and flax fiber.
continuous support to mitigate this scenario to
The spending on such imports also increased amidst sustain the business and stay competitive in the
the ongoing coronavirus pandemic, which had global apparel market.
disrupted the global supply chain for a long time.
While the rapid response from the government
Local importers, millers, traders and spinners spent with timely policy support including stimulus
about Tk 1,221 crore during the January-May period packages and time extension for non-classification
this year compared to around Tk 706 crore in the of loan account can greatly aid the RMG industry
same period the last year, registering 73 percent in its struggle to turn around, be more competitive
year-on-year growth. globally, and survive amid the COVID pandemic that
has wreaked mayhem on the industry.
Even during the pandemic time, the import of capital
machinery, investment in the primary textile sector The effect of COVID-19 is in the full swing and will
and Balancing, Modernization, Rehabilitation and further unfold and evolve fast. The full impact will
Expansion (BMRE) has not stopped in the textile sector, be more visible in the coming years or beyond. To
said Monsoor Ahmed, Additional Director of BTMA. mitigate the imminent crisis, it is needed to stay
ahead of the curve and get ready with suitable
Demand for new products is growing now from the
emergency assistance and post-crisis assistance in
international and local buyers is increasing, he said.
different forms as appropriate.
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Te x t i l e W o r l d
Turkish textiles stepping ahead to grip

stronger position in global market
Jannatun Nuri
Multinational corporations were Even, export costs for border com- Today, Turkey's textile sector rep-
already looking for Chinese pliance and documentary compli- resents more than 18% of its export
sourcing alternatives for the ance are lower than Turkey's major earnings, making a great contribu-
movement that intensified in competitors due to the economic tion to its export earnings.
March this year due to political growth of Turkey. Turkey's eco-
divisions between China and the nomic growth over the past two In April 2021, Turkey's total gar-
EU, and more recently Xinjiang’s decades has been remarkable. Tur- ment exports increased from 573 mil-
forced labor-related production. In key's per capita GDP in 2000 was lion to USD 1.6 billion last year. Tur-
later times, European companies USD 3,143, which increased its per key's total garment exports increased
prefer near-shoring as one of the ways capita GDP to USD 12,614 by 2013. by USD 6.3 billion in January 2021, up
to diversify supply chains and make After 2012-13, economic growth from USD 4.8 billion last year with an
them more flexible and efficient. has slowed down drastically. increase of 32.3 percent.
Thus, Turkey’s textile sector has Consumer price inflation in Turkey Turkey has the distinct advantage
become a significant sourcing fell from 54.4 percent in 2001 to of providing a significant portion
point for clothing supply chains 6.5 percent in 2011, but it has final- of its textile and garment industry
around the world due to its ly risen since 2015 to a record 15.1 domestically. It is more prominent
potential. Turkey has the largest
share of EU’s imports averaging
7.0 percent among these Items Turkey Vietnam Bangladesh Egypt
product categories: clothing and Cost of Export: Border 338 290 408 258
accessories, and make-up articles Compliance (USD)
(mostly home textiles). Cost of Export: Documentary 55 139 225 100
Compliance (USD)
Similarly, in the case of clothing
accessories, Turkey has an 8.6 Cost of import: Border 46 373 900 554
percent share, followed by Italy at 9 Compliance (USD)
percent and China at 29.9 percent. Cost of import: Documentary 55 183 370 1000
Compliance (USD)
Turkey's production, logistics,
value-added products, and a
big push for sustainability in the in the cotton industry. Turkey
percent in 2019.
textile and apparel industry make produces more than 62.0 percent
it a potential sourcing point after Turkey’s textile and apparel indus- of its cotton consumption needs,
China. Turkey's major competitions try has been instrumental to its while its large cotton spinning
are Vietnam, Bangladesh, Egypt. economic growth and develop- industry processes cotton and
Among them Turkey has the ment over the years. At its peak in supplies about 85 percent of its
shortest lead time than other 2002, textile and clothing contrib- domestic cotton yarn cost.
competitors because of its support uted 26.6 percent to total manu-
and proximity of location. facturing value-added in Turkey. On the fabric front, Turkey exports
twice as much cotton as it imports
Items Turkey Vietnam Bangladesh Egypt from the rest of the world. Tur-
key's main reliance on raw material
Logistics Performance 47 39 100 67
imports lies in synthetic fibers and
Index Rank
yarns, most of which are sup-
Trading Across Borders Rank 44 104 176 171
plied by China and India. But raw
Lead time to Export (Days) 2 3 4 2 materials are a small part of what
Time to Export: Border 10 55 168 48 Turkey lags. High labor costs and
Compliance (Hours) future economic instability can re-
Time to Export: Documentary 4 50 147 88 duce the growth of Turkey's textile
Compliance (Hours) and apparel sector.
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In Focus
Framing to face challenges

after shifting from LDC
According to an earlier timeline set by the CDP, Indian Foreign Trade Institute are preparing a report
Bangladesh was set to leave the LDC category on a joint study on CEPA, which is a bit different
in 2024. However, given the COVID-19 pandemic from FTAs as it covers a lot of issues such as trade in
and taking note of a request by the Bangladesh goods and services, investment, intellectual property
government the graduation year was deferred by rights and e-commerce.
two years, i.e., in 2026.
Bangladesh has signed a bilateral PTA with Bhutan
Keeping this in mind Bangladesh is focusing on 6 December 2020. Under the agreement, 34
on bilateral free and preferential trade deals as Bhutanese products will get duty-free access to the
Bangladeshi market and 100 Bangladesh products to
get similar access to Bhutan.
VIETNAM
Both the countries will be able to increase the
number of items gradually through consultation.
MALAYSIA
THAILAND JAPAN China Myanmar
Nigeria Mali
EURASIAN
ECONOMIC Iraq Lebanon
COMMISSION
Figure 1: Bangladesh has already done FTAs and PTAs with these
countries and organizations.
Iraq Macedonia
a strategy to overcome the possible losses of

global trade concessions after its graduation to a USA Mauritius
developing economy.
Figure 2: The possibility of Bangladesh signing FTAs and PTAs
Signing Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) and lies with the above countries.
Preferential Trade Agreements (PTAs) with several
countries have been completed already. PTA negotiations with Nepal are at the final stage.
Bangladesh has demanded zero-duty benefits on the
According to an official document, the countries and export of 140 products to Nepal.
organizations include Malaysia, Vietnam, Thailand,
Japan and Eurasian Economic Commission. Significant progress has also been made through
informal talks aimed at signing a bilateral PTA with
The possibility of Bangladesh signing such trade Indonesia.
agreements with China, Myanmar, Nigeria, Mali,
Macedonia, Mauritius, Jordan, the USA, Iraq and Bangladesh has formally initiated negotiations
Lebanon is also being analyzed. with the Association of South-East Asian Nations
(ASEAN) to sign a free trade agreement to enjoy
Also, a Comprehensive Economic Partnership greater market access in the bloc after graduating
Agreement (CEPA) between Bangladesh and India is from the least developed country grouping.
in progress. Brunei, Burma (Myanmar), Cambodia, Timor-Leste,
Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore,
Bangladesh Foreign Trade Institute (BFTI) and the Thailand and Vietnam are the AESAN countries. If
An Innovation Hub

Export Updates In Focus
Bangladesh can sign an FTA with From 2027 duty some of its businesses as it will
the ASEAN, it does not need to facilities BD gets graduate from the LDC status.
sign any bilateral agreement with from WTO in import
any of the 11 member countries of & export might be Bangladesh ministry of commerce
the bloc. stopped had taken an initiative to prepare
a draft guideline titled 'Policy
In addition, to increase Bangladesh's GSP Guidelines for Preferential Trade
competitiveness in exports, the status to EU will end Agreement (PTA)/Free Trade
document mentioned that the in 2024 Agreement (FTA)-2020', that
government has continued to provide asked the Bangladesh Trade
export incentives to 36 products as EU GSP status will and Tariff Commission (BTTC)
in the previous fiscal year. continue up to 2027 to update the existing policy
under a 3-year grace guidelines for FTA-2010 by
The government has identified 17 period incorporating changing patterns of
products to boost exports in the global and domestic trade.
aftermath of the pandemic, which Figure 3: As per the rules and regulations
of WTO, Bangladesh might lose some of
is expected to play a strong role its businesses as it will graduate from LDC In the 2010 guidelines, the FTAs
in sustaining export growth after status. are mainly focused on goods and
Bangladesh transitions from the services. The new guidelines will
least developed countries in 2026. have issues such as intellectual
agreements have already been
property rights, technology and
To reduce the trade deficit, the signed by 44 countries.
the environment. Global trade
document said, measures are pattern has changed in the last
Bangladesh, as per the rules and
being taken to remove tariff and decade and developed countries
regulations of the World Trade
non-tariff barriers by executing focus on emerging issues while
Organization (WTO), might lose
bilateral trade agreements. Such signing FTAs or PTAs.
Bangladesh sets target to earn

$35.14 bn from RMG sector in FY22
Staff Correspondent
For the Fiscal Year 2021-22, The growth target for the knitwear
the government is going to set products set at 17.33% and 8.51%
a target to earn $35.14 billion
exporting apparel goods.
for woven products. In the fiscal year
2020-21, Bangladesh earned $31.45 $35.14 bn
(with 11.73% growth rate)
billion exporting apparel goods.
apparel export target
The Export Promotion Bureau, the
promoter of the country’s exports, Of the total earnings, Knitwear
has made the proposal to the
Ministry of Commerce.
products earned $16.96 billion, up by
21.94 percent, which was $13.90 billion $19.51 bn
in the same period previous year. (with 17.33% growth rate)
Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi
knitwear export target
announced recently after having a While woven products fetched
meeting with the stakeholders. $14.50 billion, which is 3.24 percent
With an 11.73 percent growth

higher compared to $14.04 billion in
the previous fiscal year. $15.62 bn
target, the EPB stated Bangladesh (with 8.51% growth rate)
would be able to earn $35.14 Meanwhile, the government is also woven export target
billion in the fiscal year 2021-22. set a target to earn $1.37 billion
with 20.91% growth from the home
Of the total exports target, $19.51
billion would come from knitwear
textile sector.
$1.37 bn
products and $15.62 billion woven On the other hand, the overall (with 20.91% growth rate)
products. export target for FY22 would be home textile export target
set at $43.50 billion from goods.
An Innovation Hub

Tra d e a n d B i z
Bangladesh home-textile export

sees a boom in FY 2020-21
Staff Correspondent
Even amid the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, Home textile export grew by
Bangladesh's export earnings from the home textile
products posted a robust growth by 49.17% to $1.13
49.17% to $1.13 bn
in FY2020-21
billion in the just-concluded fiscal year 2020-21,
which was $559 million in the same period a year
ago. Said a data from Export Promotion Bureau Bed & kitchen toilet lines
(EPB).
earned $521.33 mn,
However, the exports earnings from the apparel grew by 28.28%
goods posted a 12.55% growth to 31.45 billion in compared to last FY
the year, while the country’s overall exports rose by
15.10% to $38.75 billion.
Of the total earnings, $521.33 million came from bed

$611 mn
came from other
and kitchen toilet lines products, which is 28.28% products
higher compared to $406.40 million of the previous
fiscal year. On the other hand, $611 million came from
the other products. people’s to keep factories open by maintaining the
health safety guideline.
Home textile products include bed linen, bed sheet
and other bedroom textiles, bath linen, carpets and “To keep the factory operational amid the Covid-19,
rugs, blankets, kitchen linen, curtains, cushions and the government allowed factory owners to operate
cushion cover and covers for quilts. by following health safety measures and Bangladesh
has more capacity than others to cater the bulk
Talking to Textile Today, experts and sector people demands of goods,” M Shahadat Hossain, chairman
opined that the demands of home textile products of Bangladesh Terry Towel and Linen Manufacturers
rose as people stayed at home due to the ongoing and Exporters Association (BTTLMEA) told the
Covid-19 pandemic, which pushed the exports of Textile Today.
Bangladesh up.
While some of the countries failed to supply goods
“Amid the ongoing pandemic, people stayed at home due to the Covid-19 pandemic, we were able to
to avoid infections, while they joined the office from supply on time. That is why, buyers placed more
home. On the other hand, peoples’ movement, as orders in Bangladesh and we gained from that, said
well as travel, was restricted, Mohammed Rashed the business leader.
Mosharrof, Executive Director (marketing) of Zaber
and Zubair Fabrics told the Textile Today. In retaining the growth, the trade leader urged the
government to continue the present policy support
As a result, the use of home textile products and offer more incentives and low-cost funds for
increased sharply mostly in European countries as working capital.
well as in the United States of America (USA), which
helped Bangladesh to earn more from the exports of “As Bangladesh is the choice for placing orders, both
these goods, said Rashed. the government and the manufacturers of home
textile products have to be very active to retain the
On the other hand, Bangladesh offers the best interest. In doing so, the government should come
quality product basket to the global brands and up with policy support,” Khondaker Golam Moazzem,
retailers, which is another big reason for the sharp Research Director at Centre for Policy Dialogue
rise in exports earnings, he added. (CPD) told the Textile Today.
On top of that capacity to produce bulk products He also urged the manufacturers to maintain health
also helped Bangladesh to grow amid the pandemic, safety guidelines so that the workers’ rights are
which was possible by the government and sector ensured and their production remains active.
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Opinion
Deepening economic cooperation

and integration in BIMSTEC
Sabbir Rahman Khan
The Bay of Bengal Initiative for Multi-Sectoral

Technical and Economic Cooperation (BIMSTEC) is
a regional organization comprising seven Member
States lying in the adjacent areas of the Bay of
Bengal constituting a unique regional unity.
This sub-regional organization came into being on

6 June 1997 through the Bangkok Declaration. It
constitutes seven Member States: five deriving from
South Asia, including Bangladesh, Bhutan, India,
Nepal, Sri Lanka, and two from Southeast Asia,
including Myanmar and Thailand.
The BIMSTEC region is home to more than 1.7 billion

people which constitute around 23% of the global
population with a combined GDP of US$3.7 trillion
(around 4% of world GDP) economies. In the last five Figure: Lack of connectivity and information dissemination in
the region appears as a common barrier for tap BIMSTEC-led
years, BIMSTEC Member States have been able to opportunities. Courtesy: Collected
sustain an average 6.5% economic growth trajectory
despite global financial meltdown. by required financial resources.
Trade dynamics
BIMSTEC-identified 14 cooperation areas
According to industry insiders, Intra-regional trade Source: BIMSTEC
among BIMSTEC countries is above US$40 billion AREA LEAD COUNTRY
and the potential trade opportunity evolving the
1. Trade and Investment Bangladesh
BIMSTEC nations seems to be as high as US$250
billion. Notably, BIMSTEC countries constitute around 2. Technology Sri Lanka
3.8% of world trade meaning that it has an immense 3. Energy Myanmar
potential to be a game-changer of the global south 4. Transport & Communication India
economy.
5. Tourism India
Presently, about 60% of BIMSTEC’s combined GDP 6. Fisheries Thailand
at present comes from trade. Currently, India’s export 7. Agriculture Myanmar
share in BIMSTEC is about 50% (US$21 billion),
8. Cultural Cooperation Bhutan
followed by Thailand 30% (US$12.2 billion) and
9. Environment & Disaster India
Myanmar 14% (US$6.1 billion). India and Thailand
Management
together account for more than 85% of intra-regional
exports of BIMSTEC. 10. Public Health Thailand
11. People to People Contact Thailand
Coming to connectivity dynamics, over 40% of
12. Poverty Alleviation Nepal
BIMSTEC’s intra-regional trade is ocean-borne,
demonstrating the need for maritime connectivity. 13. Counter-Terrorism and India
Transnational Crime
However, the research identified three (03) strategies 14. Climate Change Bangladesh
are essential to support and strengthen connectivity
within the region: (i) enhanced physical infrastructure It is encouraging to see that Bangladesh is in the
(economic corridor), (ii) effective institutions, rules leaderboard in the cooperation areas defined by
and procedures (institutions), and (iii) knowledge BIMSTEC.
and empower people (skill development) supported
An Innovation Hub

Opinion
Development and GDP indicators for BIMSTEC members

Sources: BBS, UNDP, WB
Average 2019 UNDP Human 2020 World Bank Trade as a 2018 World
Annual GDP Development Index Ease of Doing Per-cent of Bank Logistics
Growth Rank (Out of 188) Business Rank GDP Performance Index
(2012-2016) (Out of 190) Rank (Out of 160)
Bangladesh 6.5% 135 168 36 (2018) 100
Bhutan 5.5% 134 89 79 (2017) 149
India 6.9% 129 63 43 (2018) 44
Myanmar 7.3% 145 165 48 (2017) 137
Nepal 3.7% 147 94 55 (2018) 114
Sri Lanka 5.3% 71 99 53 (2018) 94
Thailand 3.4% 77 21 123 (2018) 32
FDI inflow to BIMSTEC has • The Trade Negotiating to other regional blocs. One of the
reached approx. US$ 60 billion Committee (TNC) have resumed major reasons for this low level of
in 2018-19. India is the highest negotiations to finalize the trade and investment is inadequate
recipient of FDI. constituent agreements of infrastructure. Moreover, lack of
connectivity and information
Inward FDI trend in BIMSTEC member countries (value in million US$) dissemination in the region
Source: UNCTAD, World Investment Report, 2019 appears as a common
barrier for tap BIMSTEC-led
Year India Thailand Bangladesh Myanmar Sri Lanka Nepal Bhutan
opportunities. Regarding
2018 42286 10493 3613 3554 1611 161 6 border trade, lack of
2017 39904 6478 2152 4341 1373 129 – 10 telecommunication links,
2016 44481 1815 2333 2989 897 106 –7 parking space, warehouses
and cold storage,
2015 44064 5624 2235 2824 680 52 4
accommodation facilities and
power are major constraints.
Landmark agreements by the Framework Agreement on
BIMSTEC BIMSTEC FTA. Strategic areas to strengthen
regional connectivity
1. 2004 Framework Agreement on • Reached agreement on a
BIMSTEC Free Trade Area (FTA). number of core elements related • Developing Coastal and Border
to the Agreement on Trade in Economic Zones.
2. BIMSTEC Convention on
Goods, and its Rules of Origin
Cooperation in Combating • Signing BIMSTEC MVA.
and Product Specific Rules
International Terrorism,
(PSR). • Undertaking Reforms in
Transnational Organised Crime
and Illicit Drug Trafficking Logistics.
• Developing the BIMSTEC
(2009). Transport Connectivity Master Plan. • Negotiating New BIMSTEC
3. A memorandum of Shipping Agreement.
• Exploring the possibility
understanding (MOU) to of establishing a BIMSTEC • Strengthening Digital
establish BIMSTEC Grid Development Fund (BDF). Connectivity.
Interconnection (2018).
• In the process of establishing • Designing a Connectivity Master
Recent updates closer collaboration with the Plan.
UN system, Asian Development
• Concluding Agreement on
Bank and the World Bank in this • Setting up BIMSTEC Airlines
Cooperation and Mutual
regard. Group.
Assistance in Customs Matters.
Pertinent challenges • Signing of BIMSTEC Framework
• Concluding BIMSTEC Motor
Agreement on Transit, Trans-
Vehicle Agreement. Intra-regional trade and shipment and Movement of
investment are relatively lower in Vehicular Traffic.
• Concluding BIMSTEC Coastal
the BIMSTEC region as compared
Shipping Agreement.
An Innovation Hub

C o l l a b o r a t i o n To d a y
SEZL signs a consultancy

agreement with Japan
Development Institute
Textile Today Business Report
Sirajganj Economic Zone Limited, which operates a

private economic zone licensed by the Bangladesh
Economic Zone Authority, has allotted land to 14
investors. A ‘Detailed Engineering Plan’ agreement
for Sirajganj EZ has been signed with Japan
Development Institute (JDI). The agreement was
signed on June 29, 2021, at a ceremony at the BEZA
headquarters in Dhaka.
Pawan Chowdhury, Executive Chairman of

Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (BEZA), was
present as the chief guest at the signing ceremony
and said that BEZA was working to establish 100
economic zones across the country under the direct
supervision of Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina.
Figure 1: A ‘Detailed Engineering Plan’ agreement for Sirajganj
Under the agreements, Sirajganj EZL has EZ has been signed with Japan Development Institute (JDI).
Courtesy: Collected
allocated 110 acres among different 14 individual
industries. JDI will provide engineering assistance
Sirajganj Economic Zone is the largest private special
for land development in Sirajganj EZ. JDI is the most
economic zone in Bangladesh, with 1,035.93 acres of
recognized and globally acclaimed expert in this field.
clear title land.
Name of industries Allocated Land (in Acres) A consortium comprised of 11 renowned business
Apex Footwear Ltd. 5 groups like Knit Asia Ltd., Rising Holdings Ltd.
Continental Garments 8 Mahmud Fashion, Ratul Knitwear, S.M Holdings,
Industries (Private) Ltd. Paragon Feed, Textown Ltd., Manami Fashions,
Change Bangladesh Ltd and two renowned business
Dynamic Dredging 2
personality Dr. Mohammad Kamruzzaman from
Knit Asia Ltd. 8 Total Quality Resources and Ehsan Habib from
MK Chemical Industries Ltd. 4 Esquire Group was formed in the name of Sirajganj
Ratul Fabric Ltd. 5 Economic Zone Limited (SEZL). It is expected to
host the textile and knitwear, food processing,
Active Composite Mills Ltd. 2
pharmaceuticals, leather, automobile engineering,
Rising Holdings Ltd. 10
LPG manufacturing, steel manufacturing, and fish
Rising Spinning Mills Ltd. 5 and shipbuilding industries.
Jessore Feed Ltd. 16
The region will create employment for five lakh
Merina Properties (BD) Ltd. 21
people and bring in a lot of foreign investment for
Textown Ltd. 5 the private sector in Bangladesh.
Square Accessories Ltd. 12
Chairman of the Sirajganj EZL A Matin Chowdhury
Square Electronics Ltd. 7
said that the economic zone is being developed on the
Located on the west side of the Bangabandhu banks of the river Jamuna with the necessary facilities
Jamuna Bridge on the banks of the river Jamuna, the to set up any heavy industry in a natural landscape.
An Innovation Hub

C
APNA ORGANICS PVT. LTD.

(AN ISO 9001:2015 / EN 14001:2015 & OHSAS 45001:2018 Certified Company)
“LEADING SOLUTION PROVIDER FOR TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY”
INTRODUCING: WATERLESS STONE-FREE ENZYME
FEATURES:
ZDHC Completely Zero Water Works at

Certified Biodegradable Consumption Room Temperature
Bangladesh Office:
House 37 (3 Flr.), Gausul Azam Avenue, Sector 14, Uttara, Dhaka-1230
rd
M. +88 01759 492897, +91 8828138906 E. apnaorganics@outlook.com

www.apnaorganics.in
Te x t i l e W o r l d
Vietnamese textile-garment Sri Lankan garment workers need

firms investing to foster trade brands, factory owners and Govt.
Desk report to take responsibility
Due to the Desk report
CSF approved $120-mn
COVID-19
investment plan for Unitex Sri Lankan
pandemic resulting
synthetic fiber factory garment workers
in a fall in demand
are particularly
for textiles Project focuses on recycled affected by the
and garments, yarn & high-quality fiber pandemic. Many
Vietnamese
factories remain
enterprises Viet Tien Garment
open and often
have invested Corporation will invest $13 mn Figure: Sri Lankan garment workers
workers have to protesting for full payment of wages,
in improving in 2021 in several projects
work in crowded bonuses and respect for union rights.
production capacity, Courtesy: FTZ & GSEU.
circumstances
completing the supply chain, and taking advantage of new-
without the needed health and safety measures.
generation free trade agreements (FTAs) like the European
Workers generally cannot keep their distance in the
Union-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA) and the
boarding houses where many of them live.
United Kingdom-Vietnam FTA.
Consequently, Sri Lanka has seen a range of mass
Recently the Century Synthetic Fiber Corporation
outbreaks in garment factories since late 2020.
(CSF) approved a $120-million investment plan for the Unitex
During the current wave, this has led to the death of
synthetic fiber factory project in the Tay Ninh province.
at least six workers and many other workers falling ill.
With a capacity of 60,000 tons, the project focuses
Even though garment factories have functioned
on recycled yarn and high-quality fiber. Also, CSF
as infection hubs, workers are not given access to
will become the second-largest fiber producer in the
affordable testing and health care.
country once the factory becomes operational, with
a total capacity of 120,000 tons per year.
S African textile workers to enjoy
The Viet Tien Garment Corporation also plans to
invest $13 million this year in several projects. That
wage increase from August 2021
includes $4.3 million in setting up the Viet Thai Tech Desk report
Co. Ltd to secure raw material resources.
In 2021, The
Similarly, Thanh Cong Textile Garments Investment
Southern African 4.77% in metro areas, &
Trading Joint Stock Company (TCM) has announced to
Clothing & Textile 6.66% in non-metro areas
start construction work on its Bin Long 2 factory this year.
Workers’ Union
(SACTWU) has Avge. 5.2% increase in
Vietnam embassy and DCCI, collaborate to settled its wage both areas
ease trade & investment negotiations for the
Desk Report country’s textile Wage increase applicable
sector to provide for 12-month period from
The embassy of Vietnam in Bangladesh and the
for a 4.77 percent Aug 2021, to Jul 2022
Dhaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DCCI)
wage increase for
has signed a memorandum of cooperation to ease trade
metro areas, and
and investment between Vietnam and Bangladesh.
6.66 percent for non-metro areas. For both areas,
Recently Rizwan Rahman, President, DCCI and the average increase is 5.2 percent and that will be
Pham Viet Chien, Ambassador, Vietnam signed the operative from 1 August.
agreement at the chamber’s office in Dhaka, said a
press release. SACTWU, affiliated with Congress of South African
Trade Unions (COSATU). On 9 June 2021, they signed
The Vietnamese embassy will also set up a ‘Vietnam
an agreement with the South African Blankets
Desk’ at DCCI’s office to lift bilateral trade under the
Manufacturing Employers’ Organization (SABMEO),
agreement.
in a press release SACTWU said that.
As per the MoC, both the DCCI and the embassy will
organize business-to-business match-making, buyer- The wage increase will be applicable for a 12-month
seller meetings, trade fairs, business promotion period from August 1, 2021, to July 31, 2022. Fresh
activities, promotion of goods and services, and negotiations will be held in early 2022, to determine
field visits to research the Bangladeshi market. the new wages from 1 August next year.
An Innovation Hub

RMG exports to USA grew
by 15.38% in Jan-May
Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) exports to

the United States grew by 15.38% during January to
May of this calendar year, registering a double-digit
growth both in terms of value and volume compared
to the same period of last year.
According to the figures available with the Office of

Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA), an affiliate of the US
Department of Commerce, Bangladesh earned $2.24
billion during the corresponding period of 2020.
While in the first five months of the 2021 calendar
year, the country exported 1.02 billion square meters
of apparel items, up from 807.67 million square
Benninger’s Woven
Line. You can feel
meters or 27.30 percent.
According to the OTEXA data, RMG exports to the
the difference!
US stood at $5.22 billion in 2020, down from $5.92
billion in 2019.
The OTEXA data also revealed that during the period

the total apparel imports of the USA from across the
world increased by 22.19 percent to US$ 29.21 billion from Superior fabric quality due to flexible machine
$23.91 billion during the same period in 2020. design for all kind of processes, fabrics and speeds,
China witnessed a 26.17 percent growth to US$ 5.82 whilst ensuring highest productivity.
billion during the period, which was $4.61 billion during
the corresponding period of last calendar year. You can feel it’s Benninger!
While Vietnam and Cambodia also witnessed a
growth of 19.48 percent and 15.35 percent to $5.74
billion and $1.24 billion respectively year-on-year
during the period.
Also, India, Mexico, and Pakistan apparel export to

the US grew by over 21% to 58% except for Indonesia
that was maintaining a negative growth of 1.75 percent.
RMG industry insiders expressed their relief as

Bangladesh’s single largest export destination
returning to its pre-COVID level. Thanks to good
vaccination, and a shift of orders from China,
Myanmar and other factors.
Top apparel export earning countries in US during

Jan to May of this calendar year(in $bn)
Source: OTEXA
Export earnings
6 5.82 5.74
5
4
3
2.24
2
1.24
1
0
China Vietnam Bangladesh Cambodia
Benninger AG
Figure 2: Top apparel export earning countries in US 9240 Uzwil | Switzerland
during Jan to May of this calendar year. T +41 71 955 85 85
F +41 71 955 87 47 A Jakob Müller
info@benningergroup.com Company
www.benningergroup.com
Exclusive Interview
Buyer’s confidence about our

overall business process leads to get
30% more order during pandemic
Shakhawat Abu Khair Mohammed, Managing Director, Robintex Group
Robintex Group, a Germany- this seemingly impossible journey 1995 with the high-end German
Bangladesh Joint venture, is a possible with his visionary leadership. technologies – I have never
globally renowned company for compromised with quality. At that
its continual accomplishment in Recently, Shakhawat shared his time, there were no capable human
exporting quality knit apparel to insights, plan, and vision with Textile resources to accomplish those
the international markets since Today also shared details on their delicate technologies.
its establishment in 1996. Since recently installed state-of-the-art MS
its inception, ethical practices LaRio. Here are the key highlights of I have always kept the
along with industrial and social the discussion for the readers. environment in my mind in every
compliances have united Robintex aspect. Robintex signified the
Textile Today: How Robintex sustainability and environment
with its employees and the local as
Group successfully blends first in the investment decision as
well as international communities
western and oriental industrial I was akin to the German industry
in excellent harmony.
aspects. What is the driving for a long time. Back in 1996, when
The thorny journey smoothly factor behind this? I started the factory, I installed an
underwent due to one man’s vision ETP when it was unthinkable.
Shakhawat Abu Khair Mohammed:
to make a sustainable textile and
Understanding the market demand, Instead of setting up conventional
apparel industry. Shakhawat Abu
I invested in knitting and dyeing dyeing, we set up CPB (Cold Pad
Khair Mohammed, the Managing
set up on a small scale back in Batch) for continuous bleaching
Director of Robintex Group has made
An Innovation Hub

Exclusive Interview
and dyeing of knit fabric. The buyers to bring fashion items in real ensure workers' health safety.
CPB was 30% cost saving to quick time to get the proper price. COVID infection in our factories
chemical, energy and water has been to the minimum level.
consumption altogether. It also Robintex ensured that we will
offered us salt-free dyeing that deliver the right product at the right Moreover, if a worker had any
was environmentally friendly. time to achieve the right price. medical issues, we gave full
medical leave with salary. Workers’
Besides the world-leading Also, MS LaRio's impact on comfort is one of our top priorities
machinery, technology and environmental sustainability is since the beginning of my business
expertise from Germany, Robintex minimal. Incredibly it achieves journey. As I think taking care of
also has machineries from the almost zero waste. Which is the the workers will give me extra
USA, UK, Japan, Switzerland, most vital factor for Robintex. milage in the business. In the last 9
Australia, Italy, Singapore and years, Robintex grew 3 times more.
Textile Today: How long does it
India, Robintex has been resolutely
take to get the return from the Amid the pandemic, we have 30%
shaped to qualify to be a full-
investment in the expensive MS more orders than the previous
fledged vertically integrated
LaRio machine? year. The only reason I see is that
composite knit premise.
our buyers are confident about our
Now today, we have come this overall business process.
As I have said earlier, Robintex
far with [around] 12000 skilled
acquired this costly MS LaRio Textile Today: As an innovation-
workforce members are working in
machine to achieve zero waste. As centric company how will Robintex
a model environment to produce
other printing methods produce a evaluate Textile Today’s innovative
about 0.1 million pieces of high-
lot of hazardous waste. initiatives to transform Bangladesh’s
quality and diverse types of knit
garments every day. a textile and apparel industry?
So far, we are using MS LaRio’s
70% capacity. From this season Shakhawat Abu Khair Mohammed:
Textile Today: Robintex Group has
onward, this mammoth investment As an innovation platform,
recently installed the state-of-the-
will bear fruit. Hopefully, within Textile Today has been making
art MS LaRio, the first and fastest
one and half years we will recover an amazing contribution to
ever single-pass digital printing
the full investment. Bangladesh’s textile and apparel
machine in the world. Can you say
something about its pros and cons? industry. Effectively and efficiently
Textile Today: Is there any new
working as an ‘innovation hub’,
investment plan for Robintex
Shakhawat Abu Khair Mohammed: this greatly supports, facilitates,
Group in near future? In which
MS LaRio is the first and fastest innovates, and enhances factory
area do you want to expand?
ever single-pass digital printing suppliers, professionals, apprentices,
machine in the world to rule the Shakhawat Abu Khair Mohammed: professionals, learnings etc.
arena of AOP printing. In Robintex, At this moment, I will not go for
we already have enough printing As you know, recently Robintex
any new segment. We are quite
machines to fully serve our Group has come up to bring
content with the knitwear and
customers, and the investment innovation in the textile and
printing establishments we have.
is huge. Besides our lead-time apparel industry jointly with Textile
But we will explore other avenues
was 7-8 weeks. In this super- Today Innovation Hub being one
of innovation – environmental
competitive apparel industry, the of the ‘Textile Today Platinum
sustainability and productivity –
speedy delivery is the ultimate Associates’ to foster new ideas.
within the existing range.
game-changer.
Vice-versa by partnering with
Textile Today: What strategies
I preferred investments in state-of- Robintex Group, the ‘Textile Today
and techniques did Robintex
the-art technology that can lower Innovation Hub’ will expand to a
Group implement during the first
20-30% production cost down. larger scale.
phase of COVID-19, and how are
you handling the 2nd phase of the As a leading global textile media
MS LaRio cut our lead-time by
COVID-19 wave? platform, it has been globally
2-3 weeks. Meaning we can ship
orders in orders within 4-5 week. branding our RMG industry for the
Its super-fast production speed last 14 years. I highly appreciate
Since the first wave entered our
is vital to achieving right time this initiative, as the apparel
country, Robintex Group has been
delivery to our customers. In manufacturers need to be heard in
following strict health guidelines
western countries, fashion trends the international arena.
according to the WHO, and the
are short-lived. Compelling fashion government’s health ministry to Textile Today: As an experienced
An Innovation Hub

Exclusive Interview Tra d e a n d B i z
industry leader what are your here, they are welcome. alternative marketing platforms?
suggestions for the advancement
of the industry? On top of that, government Shakhawat Abu Khair Mohammed:
support is crucial to achieving a In this new global situation, digital
Shakhawat Abu Khair Mohammed: seamless delivery of RMG. Flawless presence is paramount for apparel
We have come a long way over 40 connection of power is paramount, manufacturers. Though we lag
years. Now Bangladesh’s textile as well as the transport system in this, it is high time that we
and apparel industry is one of the and port facilities. To put it in a build a strong presence in digital
top sustainable industries in the nutshell, ease of doing business marketing. It can be done by going
world. However, every day we face should not only benefit the textile to established platforms or setting
a lot of challenges and thankfully and RMG but the whole economy up our platforms. But this is the
with the dedication of our people, of the country. need of the hour.
we successfully deal these.
Textile Today: The industry leaders One of the vital aspects of
Indeed, we have not progressed are underlining digital marketing. marketing is developing our
much in the non-cotton segment What are the best ways to go for unique fashion items. For this R&D
but we are gradually overcoming digital marketing? As a country is a prerequisite. We must have our
it. To develop the manmade fiber of bulk production, how can R&D rather than the present trend
section, if any foreign investor wants Bangladesh utilize the established of copying buyers’ designs.
to invest and start manufacturing
FDI declined by 11% in Bangladesh

amid global pandemic
Bangladesh received 11% less Foreign Direct

Investment (FDI) in 2020 amid a global decline, BD received $2.56 bn FDI
the United Nations Conference on Trade and in 2020 -which is 11% less
Development (UNCTAD) said recently. than 2019
In 2020, Bangladesh received $2.56 billion, which
was $2.87 billion in 2019.
Global FDI deteriorated by
In addition, UNCTAD said in its statement that
Bangladesh is a “low investment commitment” 35% to $998.91 bn
nation.
According to the World Investment Report (WIR)
FDI in South Asia grew by
2021 of UNCTAD, FDI also downed in other South
Asian economies that depend on readymade 20% to $71 bn
garment (RMG) exporting.
The WIR 2021 also stated that FDI inflows in
FDI in South-East Asia
Bangladesh are shifting away from big non-
renewable energy and finance projects towards
fintech, the pharmaceutical industry, liquefied natural
reduced by 25%
gas plants and agribusiness, which the government is the last year from $1,530.28 billion in 2019 due to the
actively encouraging. COVID-19 pandemic.
The report further said, the prospects of FDI in Yet, FDI flows to developing countries in Asia
least developed countries (LDCs) remain cowed in improved by 4% to $535 billion in 2020, showing
the near future and inflows are expected to remain resilience amid global FDI reduction.
inactive over the next few years.
FDI in South Asia grew by 20% to $71 billion, driven
Global FDI state mainly by a 27% rise in FDI in India to $64 billion.
Globally FDI deteriorated by 35% to $998.91 billion in
An Innovation Hub

Key features of Robintex’s MS LaRio
• Fastest in the world with top speed of 70
meters per minute
• Production capacity for knit fabric: 15-20
ton/day and woven fabric: 65-70,000 m/day
• Water based ink, No need of screen, 100%
Nickel free in bulk production
• Sustainable solution to Digital AOP arena :
Water-consumption reduced by 70% and
electric consumption by 30%
• No cost for ETP, completely sustainable
ROBINTEX GROUP
Corporate Office: House 108 (5th
Floor), Road 11, Block C, Banani,
Dhaka, Bangladesh
Compliance:
Factory: Vulta, Rupganj,
Narayanganj Bangladesh
+88 02 9886218
mail@robintexbd.com
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 14, Issue 07 l Pages 43 to 60
Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion

July 2021
Unveiling industry best practices

Apparel accessories & fashion
July 2021
Why technological Faruque Hassan stresses Innovative ways
innovations are on responsible supply of marketing and
imperative to enhance chain, ethical sourcing in branding are key
competitiveness and AAFA’s SRC panel to boost the
businesses sustainability discussion business
STB is an unique model to set Transformation Blueprint for
textile & apparel industry. Through this initiative an industry can identify
its areas/scopes of transformation, can learn systematic
problem based approach, can build own experts to drive the
sector/company forward and can be an example by showcasing its
positive achievements from piloting/testing projects.
Following factories already join hands with this Knowledge

initiative to transform & lead themselves- Partner
Technology
Partner
A good no. of renowned experts pool is associated with such novel initiative. Let’s join to
contribute in the biggest ever effort to design the next decade T&A industry.
Not just the biggest industry platform
...transforming into an
: 01775 999 748, 01734 211 085 Innovation

: info@textiletoday.com.bd Profitable & Effective Organization through People Leadership & Excellence Transforming Human Capital Hub!
: House-25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road,
Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh
Opinion
Why technological innovations are

imperative to enhance competitiveness
and businesses sustainability
The fourth industrial revolution (4IR) is changing the landscape of the global
economy and industrialization, in particular, Bangladesh cannot be left alone
Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA and Managing Director of Giant Group
We are living in an era of consumers and stakeholders work workers’ rights.

disruption where things are together to achieve the desired
changing so fast that time is very prosperity and shared benefits of Bangladesh has significantly
little to adjust to one change in all. moved towards cleaner and
technology before another one greener manufacturing in recent
comes along. We are constantly But the sustainability of years. The country is the home
trying to keep up because an industry cannot be of the highest number of green
technological innovations are determined only by human garment factories in the world. We
imperative not only to enhance considerations. Ensuring industrial have 144 LEED factories certified
by the U.S. Green Building Council
(USGBC) of which 41 are Platinum,
89 Gold, 12 Silver, and 3 certified
factories. 39 out of 100 top-
ranking green factories are located
in Bangladesh.
But the progress of the industry

in terms of competitiveness,
efficiency and innovation remains
insignificant. The fourth industrial
revolution (4IR) is changing
the landscape of the global
economy and industrialization,
in particular, Bangladesh cannot
be left alone. The use of modern
technology is vital in increasing
our competitiveness.
Sustainability and digitalization

are interlinked and greatly
complements each other. Smart
supply chain management is also
a great way to become resource-
Figure 1: Ensuring industrial competitiveness and innovation are also a critical pillar of
sustainability that ensures the economic viability of the business. efficient, environment friendly,
cost-competitive and sustainable
competitiveness but also to make competitiveness and innovation
in the long run.
businesses sustainable. are also a critical pillar of
sustainability that ensures the Automation and supply chain
In the 21st century business as economic viability of the business. digitization, especially the use of
usual is no more an option as advanced data analytics, artificial
sustainability has increasingly Over the past decade, Bangladesh
intelligence, IoT and Blockchain,
become a crucial part of it. made significant progress in
are powerful tools for us in this
Sustainability in business is widely transforming its apparel industry
virtually connected world and
known to be dealing with human in terms of safety, remediation
very important for us to improve
and environmental considerations of factories, capacity building
lead time, productivity and
where workers, employers, buyers, of institutions, and improving
competitiveness.
An Innovation Hub

Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion
An initiative of Textile Today
45-47 Opinion 50 Export Updates

The Team knitwear export value in top 5 countries
(In $ billion) Source: BGMEA
Export amount
Tareq Amin 3.0
2.69
Founder & CEO 2.5
2.0 1.78
1.56
1.5
1.05 0.93
1.0
0.5
Why technological innovations
Amzad Hossain Monir 0.0
are imperative to enhance Germany UK US Spain France
Head of Business Development
competitiveness and
businesses sustainability Knitwear exports shine in FY21
Rahbar Hossain
51 Industry Best
Akik Ahmed
48-50 Sustainability Practice
Zunaed Tanvir
R|Elan™ GreenGold – A major
Business Development
boost for sustainable fashion
SN Abdullah 52-54 Young

Research & Development Leadership
Sanjoy Kumar Saha

Engagement & Communication Rose Sweaters organizes mass
vaccination for their workers
Yeasin Mia
Graphic Design
56-58 Q&A
Zakir Hossain
Jr. Executive, Web & IT Recently textile
Innovative ways of marketing
and branding are key to boost
today asked
the business RMG industry
Ashraful Alam experts about the
Cinematographer
55 Technology implications of the
Today government’s move
Advance technologies to solve to impose lockdown.
basic problems of BD RMG
Md. Ariful Islam industry (part-ii)
Md. Masudur Rahman
Abir Basak
Editorial Contributions
Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 99748
E. monir@textiletoday.com.bd
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
Opinion
At the same time, global buyers

are looking for more sustainable
manufacturing sources, which are
resource-efficient. Without the
use of technology, optimum use of
water, energy and other resources
sustainability cannot be ensured.
Therefore, we need to inspire
the use of fourth-generation
technologies in our supply chain.
One of the major concerns of Figure 2: Bangladesh is the home of the highest number of green garment factories in
the world.
digitalization in a populous
country like Bangladesh is its are trying our best to create a most importantly generating
impact on the job market. As conducive environment. employment for millions of
much as we are saying automation people. So undoubtedly the
is important, we are equally With that aim to improve skills competitiveness of this industry is
concerned about jobs and for workers, especially women, crucial for the sustenance of our
livelihoods. BGMEA is setting up a center economic growth, and technology
for productivity and innovation. will play a vital role in this regard.
Looking through the lenses of The center will help develop the
the RMG industry, the entire industry to adapt to the challenges The vision for a Digital Bangladesh
manufacturing process cannot of 4IR, and women will be at the was shared by our Honorable
be replaced by machines and we forefront. Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina
will require humans to still run is turning out to be the game-
significant parts of the operations. We are working to create higher changer for our nation.
We see this as an opportunity to education opportunities for girls
develop newer skills. working in garment factories. As we have a big vision for growth
Currently, 60 young female in the future, technology will be a
If efficiency and competitiveness workers have enrolled in the Asian vital role in the next stage of our
can be enhanced, it will certainly University for Women to pursue industrialization with regards to
generate more business, which higher studies. While digitalization sustainability, competitiveness and
would require more employment is inevitable, adapting women creating decent employment.
in labor-intensive manufacturing. to changes and enabling them
Technology upgrades will open through digital literacy and skills Our success will depend mainly
up many new jobs, especially to will foment women’s participation on developing skills and efficiency
operate advanced machines and in higher positions. for our people and creating
processes. decent jobs for them. We can
We have also engaged in dialogue ensure better livelihoods if we
The 4IR is feared to bring with other industry actors through can create better jobs for them,
adverse consequences on female BRAC’s STITCH for RMG Global and better jobs can be created
employment in low-skilled Innovation Conference, as we through enhancing the skills and
categories in particular. Indeed, believe that a multi-stakeholder value of products. Technological
it’s a serious challenge as the approach can benefit our advancement would be our new
presence of women in higher skill preparations for the future. horizon of opportunities and we
grades is still insignificant in the have to learn to keep pace with it.
RMG industry. The recommendations from
the conference will shape the Author:
However, we have the scope STITCH for RMG Global Innovation
to turn the challenge into an Challenge. We believe that
opportunity if we can prepare scouting and growing innovations
our existing women workforce for our industry through
with new skills while updating our such global challenges and
national curriculum for the next competitions can help boost our
generation with the knowledge competitiveness and resilience.
and skills required to face the
challenges of 4IR and reap its The readymade garment
industry is the key driver of our Faruque Hassan
benefits. We hope the next step
of women taking leadership economy through its contribution President, BGMEA
starts from this industry and we to GDP, export earnings and MD, Giant Group
An Innovation Hub

Sustainability
R|Elan™ GreenGold – A major

boost for sustainable fashion
Reliance Story
Background/Challenge Introduction/Solution combining sustainability with

various functional benefits like
The fashion and textile industry As an industry leader, RIL works moisture management, Thermal
are one of the key contributors to with entire textile and fashion management etc.
the economic growth, as well as value chain to inculcate circular
a leading employment generator. economy concepts among Features/USPs
However, the industry has its industry participants through
inherent detrimental effect on its Hub Excellence Programme Unique used PET bottle collection
environment and natural resources. (HEP). Reliance works closely system
with partner mills to manufacture
Hence, it is imperative that for • Pan India presence of ~150 PET
R|Elan™ GreenGold, one of the
long-term sustainability the bottle collection centres
greenest fabrics, using fibers made
industry works on reducing its from post-consumer PET bottles, • More than 90 reverse vending
carbon footprint and adopt deploying efficient and certified machines to facilitate post-
concepts of circular economy to manufacturing practices. consumer PET bottle collection
deal with the pollution it triggers,
and the resultant climate change. To make R|Elan™ GreenGold fabric, • Highly trained vendors for input
post-consumer PET bottles are materials who follow strict
Reliance Industries Ltd (RIL), crushed and converted into flakes. The guidelines, rules and regulations
India’s largest private sector flakes are then washed and converted pertaining to ethical treatment
company, is spearheading the into fibers, yarns, and fabrics. of labours and other best
adoption of sustainability and
practices.
circular economy concepts. As R|Elan™ GreenGold is a testimony
a part of its strategy to enhance of circular economy and Value Proposition for Brands and
sustainability of its operations, sustainability as it stops used Garment Manufacturers
RIL, over the years, has built PET bottles ending up in landfills
substantial capacities in recycling and oceans. In fashion industry, • Assured 100% post-consumer
post-consumer PET bottles into consumers are becoming more PET bottles for raw material
high-quality polyester, branded sensitive to the environment
Recron® GreenGold. RIL, the friendliness quotient of apparels • One of the greenest fibers
pioneer in India in making fibers and accessories. These factors
• Best-in-class quality and
out of post-consumer used PET have made R|Elan™ GreenGold the
performance in fabric
bottles, recycles over 2 billion PET most sought-after fabric among
comparable to virgin products
bottles every year. leading brands, retailers, fashion
designers and style enthusiasts. • Product and bottle traceability,
Recycling is one of the vital
along with digital traceability
processes in Reliance’s Green Questions are always asked whether
Technology concept. Used recycled Polyester (r-PET) concept • Consistent dyeing performance
materials or plastic wastes are is sustainable or not. The answer is
processed into new products to yes because the energy needed to • Higher whiteness index and
prevent wastage of potentially make products from the r-PET is superior strength parameters
useful materials. It cuts down lesser than what is needed for virgin
consumption of fresh raw polyester (Energy Saving). Also, • Extensive supply chain support
materials, energy usage, air there is less CO2 emission during to partners, from yarns to
pollution and water pollution (from production of r-PET. garments, through HEP,
landfilling). It also reduces load on including spinners, knitters,
"conventional" waste disposal and Reliance has developed a wide weavers and processors
lower greenhouse gas emissions. range of Green fibre variants,
An Innovation Hub

Sustainability Export Updates
Value Proposition for the Value wear, and women’s ethnic and human-ecological requirements
Chain – Yarn and Fabric Mills western wears. This fabric is also of the standard established for
available for home textile segment baby articles.
• Diversified product range for under the brand name Recron®
varied apparel and home textile GreenGold. • These products also fulfil the
categories requirements of Annex XVII of
R|Elan™ GreenGold fabrics are REACH (including the use of Azo
• CV % for GreenGold fiber also available with additional dyes, nickel, etc.)
properties is quite low, giving functionalities such as R|Elan™
supreme yarn quality Kooltex for moisture management • Conforms to the American
and R|Elan™ AirThem for thermal requirement regarding total lead
• Availability of large lots for content in children’s articles (CPSIA)
regulation properties.
uniformity and consistency
Certifications Conclusion
• Enlarged product basket of pre-
coloured, dope-dyed fibers Environment friendliness features R|Elan™ GreenGold is a testimony
of Recron® and R|Elan™ GreenGold of successful implantation of
• Extensive technical support circular economy concepts,
are further reinforced by the
for all stages of manufacturing making textile and fashion industry
Quality & Regulatory Certificates
throughout the value chain more sustainable. Apparels made
obtained from various agencies in
India & overseas. from R|Elan™ GreenGold not
Applications
only enhances aesthetics but
R|Elan™ GreenGold fabric can • Recron® Green fibre and Tow also enables end consumers to
be used in manufacturing casual are Oekotex 100, product Class-1 partner in a drive of environment
wear, denims, formals, active certified, which meets the conservation.
Knitwear exports shine in FY21

Staff Correspondent
Bangladesh’s exports earnings from knitwear Plummy Fashions told the Textile Today.
products, a sub-sector of clothing products, have
Amid the lockdown, the supply of raw materials for
registered a sharp rise by 21.94% to $16.96 billion in
the knitwear sector was better as domestic spinners
the last fiscal year.
were able to supply 85-90%.
According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data,
Prices of goods and on-time shipment were other
in the fiscal year 2020-21, Bangladesh earned $16.96
reasons for the better performance.
billion, up by 21.94%, which was $13.90 billion in the
previous fiscal year. In the given context, the Bangladesh government has
to ensure smoother shipment from ports and keep
On the other hand, exports earnings from the woven
the imports easy to import raw materials, said the
products posted a 3.24% growth to $14.50 billion,
economist.
which was $14.04 billion a year ago.
In the fiscal year 2020-21, overall exports of
However, the overall RMG exports grew by 12.55% to
Bangladesh increased by 15.10% to $38.75 billion,
$31.45 billion against $27.95 billion in the previous
which was $33.67 billion in the 2019-20 fiscal year.
fiscal year.
The exports of knitwear products went up as knitwear export value in top 5 countries
people's movement was restricted and they stayed at (In $ billion) Source: BGMEA
home to maintain social distance due to the ongoing
Covid-19 pandemic. On the other hand, people joined Export amount
offices from home, which pushed the demands of 3.0
2.69
casual dress.
2.5
Knitwear products are usually worn during the
2.0 1.78
stay at a homestay as it is soft, comfortable and 1.56
stretchable. 1.5
1.05 0.93
1.0
“In the Fiscal Year 2020-21, Bangladesh’s exports
earnings from the knitwear products were a blessing 0.5
for the country to retain the employment and remain 0.0
positive,” Md Fazlul Hoque, Managing Director of Germany UK US Spain France
An Innovation Hub

Industry Best Practice
Rose Sweaters organizes mass

vaccination for their workers
Rose Sweaters Ltd (Unit-2) organized mass vaccination on July 18 at
their premises. 1810 workers were immunized successfully with close
cooperation of the Gazipur Civil Surgeon office.
Md. Ismail Hossen
The readymade garment (RMG) sector plays a factory management wholeheartedly accepted the
pivotal role in the economy of Bangladesh for ensuring opportunity and arranged the vaccination program
employment, foreign reserve, and women empowerment. on the 2nd last day before Eid – Ul -Azha holiday,
This sector is accounting for around 83% of the country's within very short notice. Because they knew that to
exports and contributing approximately 16 percent to the go back to normal business there’s no option but to
GDP, with around 4,000 factories employing over four vaccinate their full workforce.
million workers. This sector also generates a huge cliental
base for banking, insurance, shipping, transport and So, with a lot of enthusiasm, by sacrificing
related other economic activities. production hours, with huge support from the
owners, the factory management was able to
Unfortunately, like others, this industry is also on immunize 1810 workers in a festive mood with close
the edge of an unprecedented humanitarian and cooperation from the Gazipur Civil Surgeon office.
business catastrophe due to the COVID-19 outbreak
in 2020. To flatten the coronavirus spread curve, At the factory grounds, without any prior registration,
the Government declared nationwide holidays for workers got their vaccination with the vaccine Mordena,
months in 2020 and declared one after another only showing their NID and factory ID cards. Workers
lockdown in the year 2021. expressed their acknowledgment and gratification after
receiving this very important privilege.
Our Prime Minister and her government, understanding
the importance of keeping the industry people safe, However, some workers were concerned and
already initiated a mass vaccination program with the hesitated continuous awareness from factory HR and
support of organizations like Care Bangladesh, UK Aid, the medical team made them understand that is it
M&S and Motto MacDonald. vital for their health, family and livelihood.
As a pilot program, Rose Swearer Ltd, Unit 2 was Rose Sweaters Management and Employees are very
one of the four factories that organized this mass obliged to our Prime Minister, Madam Sheikh Hasina, the
vaccination of the workers successfully on July 18th, Government of Bangladesh, the donor agencies, BGMEA,
2021 at their premises. the volunteers, and all others who supported making the
mass vaccination program effective and memorable.
When Care Bangladesh offered the program,
Figure: Rose Swearer Ltd. (Unit 2) organized mass vaccination of the workers successfully on July 18th, 2021 at their premises.
An Innovation Hub

Yo u n g L e a d e r s h i p
Innovative
ways of
marketing and
branding are
key to boost
the business
Azfar Hassan, Director, Giant Group
Azfar Hassan, Director, Giant Group was

born in a prominent textile family. He grew
up closely following his family's business
of textiles. After completing his studies in
Canada, Hassan has taken the leadership
of his family business, as well as, assumed
an active role in the country’s young textile
and apparel entrepreneur leadership as a
Director of BAYLA.
Recently in a close conversation with
Textile Today, Azfar Hasaan shared his
journey into the apparel industry, his
goal and ways to recover from upcoming
challenges. Also, expressed his vision of
branding Bangladesh and the textile and
apparel industry around the globe.
Textile Today: Could you please share with
us your journey into the apparel sector?
Azfar Hassan: My journey or inclusion in
the apparel industry started at a very early
age. My father Faruque Hassan (President
of BGMEA & Managing Director of Giant
Group) use to take me to the factory after
every Friday prayer. Frankly speaking, the
total family has been evolved around the
readymade garment (RMG) industry.
The right environment, temperament, and
attitude – every necessary ingredient always
persisted in my family. From my childhood,
I have seen the efforts and challenges the
textile and apparel sector put to improve
the situate ion. This is why all along I belong
– my heart and soul – to the apparel industry
An Innovation Hub

Reactive Dyes and Dye Intermediates
Chemistry
Colors
Behind
DYECOL CELF
DYECOL CEFT
DYECOL RR
DYECOL DR
DYECOL SS
DYECOL CE
ZERO WASTE
ZDHC GOTS/
Approved
GATEWAY / REGISTERED
MANUFACTURING
SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD

301-302, 3rd Floor, Atlanta Centre near Udyog Bhawan
Sonawala Road, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 063, India
MOB: +91 8657 4091 50, PHONE: +91 22 4270 2525
E-MAIL: nnm@shreepushkar.com
WEBSITE: www.shreepushkar.com
Yo u n g L e a d e r s h i p
and started my career with passion scopes fresh graduates have here. 3rd generation entrepreneurs
and a long-term vision. This will give the apparel sector arrogance is a huge setback.
the right kind of people.
I studied abroad. I did my O levels Besides challenges, there are
from a renowned boarding school Textile Today: What is your main goal a lot of opportunities for new
in Malaysia. Moved to Toronto and and how can you define your plan? entrepreneurs. Like we joined in
did my high school from there. Also, share with us the challenges a well-running industry. Where
Then completed my graduation you faced to make the Giant Group a we have existing buyers, markets,
from the University of Toronto. process-driven organization. etc. thanks to our previous
Then in 2015, I came back to generation. For my part, I focused
Azfar Hassan: I plan to maximize
Bangladesh, joined Giant Group on innovative ways of marketing
efficiency within the existing
and started from the basics. Now I and branding.
capacity. Like we have 25 tons
am looking after the all operations
dyeing-finishing-fabric capacity Textile Today: BD's textile and
of the company.
every day, 1500 sewing machines apparel industry has achieved a
Textile Today: What is crucial for which I am content and I do not tremendous level of sustainability
the young people in Bangladesh want to increase it. Rather, as I to shed off the negativity it got
to become an entrepreneur in the said, we will maximize efficiency. due to some unwanted incidents.
textile and apparel sector or a What are your thoughts regarding
As a Group, I will rank Giant as a
successful professional? Also, a the next 5 to 10 years' challenges
medium category – neither super
lot of the young textile engineers, the industry needs to overcome?
big nor small. We have the full
entrepreneurs are coming into the
vertical setup, except the yarn. Azfar Hassan: R&D, technology
sector and getting demotivated
and innovation will be the most
after battling the challenges. Kindly As for the challenges, for a very
significant issue soon. In Giant
share with us the outlook they long local RMG factories are not
Group, we are doing R&D on fabric.
should adopt to overcome these. process-driven. From that point,
For example, we have done some
transforming it into a process-
Azfar Hassan: For 2nd or 3rd innovative washing on cotton fabric
driven company was a mammoth
generation entrepreneurs like – tough cotton. Making the fabric
task. There was no magic ladder. I took
us, I would say starting from last long (5 to 10 years).
one step at a time – here patience is
the very basic level is vital to
crucial. Convincing my family and the Every aspect of a factory can
comprehensively understand the
senior management of the factory was be innovative. From marketing,
whole business process. Only then,
tough. But once everybody has seen product development, branding,
you will be better able to successfully
the positive outcome, then we did not process development, to minimize
market/brand your product.
have to look back to implement the costs. After joining here, I have
Learning is the paramount aspect, new processes. made a lot of innovations in
every day we have to keep on the micro aspect. But most
Another vital aspect is developing
learning to make a change. What I importantly, it is not just me, it is a
your workforce. We do not want
believe for 2nd and 3rd generation team effort that made it possible.
to prune our experienced people.
entrepreneurs that they have to
Rather, we develop their skills to Textile Today: Kindly share your
have a clear understanding of the
retune with the current pace. It is role in BAYLA.
whole process of manufacturing.
a gigantic task, but not impossible,
As it is a complex and multi-faced Azfar Hassan: In BAYLA, I
as I have done that with
industry, with so many things am overseeing the industry
meticulous planning and training.
going on simultaneously. partnership among other
Let me share a most important associations. I am focusing on
Having said that, as decision-
aspect of a great leader, that things such as collaborations,
makers, our every verdict impacts
is you have to treat your peers partnerships, innovations, etc.
everybody in the company.
with respect. For 2nd and
Emphasizing the need of working
hard, patience, sincerity and
knowledge to make a person a Azfar Hassan's day at a glance!
leader and an asset for the company. Day starts with Physical Workout
Bangladesh's textile and apparel Weekly 3 days at Office & 3 days at Factory
sector needs positive branding.
Love to Hangout with Friends
Most of the RMG factories only
do branding with buyers in their Favorite Food Steamed Rice, Dal and Beef Bhuna
minds. But the time has come Sports Badminton & Basketball
for the industry to do employee Hobby Eating, Travelling, Reading Book, Listening Song,
branding. RMG leaders should Watching Movies and Writing Review
highlight the opportunities and
An Innovation Hub

Te c h n o l o g y To d a y
Advance technologies to
solve basic problems of
BD RMG industry (part-ii)
M M Uddin
Most of the RMG factories are technologies to solve basic Demand planning software
producing low value added problems of BD RMG industry provides businesses with
products though demands of (Part-i) I discussed some essential forecasting solutions that help
high value added garments, fancy technologies which can assist them prepare for future customer
items, functional products are us to solve our basic problems demand. Businesses implement
rising rapidly. We need to boost remaining on communication, demand-planning tools to plan
our strength in new product presentation, marketing, wastages, and manage future inventory
design, marketing, communication efficiency, productivity, accuracy, and production. These solutions
and presentation, as till now our new product design and integrity. help businesses serve their
competitors are comparatively Here some more technologies customers by predicting their
better in these parameters. have been described: long-term needs. They can better
prepare for upcoming demands
In previous part (Advance Demand planning tools by ensuring that the proper
quantity and type of inventory is
stocked when needed. Demand
planning solutions rely heavily on
predictive analysis and are often a
part of supply chain management
APPROVE solutions. This tool can integrate
UPDATE forecast machine learning software to
Generate updated increase predictions by analyzing
financial plan
historical data.
To qualify for inclusion in the

Demand Planning category, a
CALCULATE
product must:
ADJUST safety stock
levels
"What if" scenario 1. Extract key insights from
Modeling a inventory trackers and other
Manually forecast metrics
b
Overides
2. Convert raw data into
FORECAST actionable forecasts
Generate system
BUILD
(statistical) 3. Support and facilitate
robust
forecast automated forecast processes
predictive
models
4. Involve predictive analysis tools
5. Produce reliable predictions

IMPORT
casual driver and To read the full article: https://
historical sales data www.textiletoday.com.bd/
advance-technologies-to-solve-
basic-problems-of-bd-rmg-
industry-part-ii/
An Innovation Hub

Textile Today Question of the Month Q&A
The Bangladesh govt. decided that all kinds of factories in Bangladesh would stay closed from 23 July to 5
August. If Eid holidays are taken together, the industry would have to stay closed for at least 18 days in a row.
The Cabinet Division issued a gazette notification in this regard detailing the rules and regulations was
imposed from 23 July. However, responding to the continuous demand by the business leaders for the
permission to operate factories, the government announced allowed business owners to reopen all export-
oriented factories from 1 August.
As Covid 19 is an ongoing reality and it is uncertain when it will come to an end, so government should not go
for strict lockdown for any people-intensive industry including textile and RMG factories.
While Textile Today talked with experts during the last strict lockdown, they expressed their concerns over
the government’s move to impose lockdown for the textile and apparel factories.
Recently textile today asked RMG industry experts about the

implications of the government’s move to impose lockdown.
Ahsan Mahmood
Country Manager
Gina Tricot
Rubana Huq
Nothing to do. If we concern about the COVID
Ex-President, BGMEA
situation it is terrible but as the decision to
It is a suicidal decision. Eid open and then lockdown, it is a huge chance of
holidays this time should have transformation of this virus.
been the shortest. The workers
We thought probably the lockdown going to be
should not be returning to their
strict to avoid movement during Eid holidays as
villages. They will be exposed
well the industry can run.
to infection largely and they
will return to their workplaces Important to run the industry because of
infected. This is a huge risk. shipments, on process production to keep
continue and confirm orders once’s summer
The business will be severely
holidays end of the month.
impacted as not only do we
lose production days, we also Now what I feel movement creates more impact
riskless or no output in case of as well closing of the industry for a long time.
a huge incidence of COVID.
An Innovation Hub

Textile Today Question of the Month Q&A
Sheikh H M Mustafiz Hasin Arman

Managing Director Treasurer, BAYLA
Cute Dress Industry Ltd. Director of MB Knit Fashion Ltd.
With these long holidays, it will have This was the time to get some volume
serious impacts on our business that are orders at a fair price from the buyers
supposed to ship out after Eid. We may since they have started opening their
have to compensate with pre-paid air shops but if this lockdown starts from
shipment to meet our buyers’ delivery 23 July and stays for 18 days it will be a
deadline. cause we already delayed the disaster for the industry.
shipment due to supply chain disruption
For the business and to give the salary
during the recent lockdown.
to the workers and payment to the
However, we will try to inform the suppliers we have to give shipments to
situation to our buyers and try our best to roll the turnover with the bank. In this
negotiate with affordable compensation. circumstance, if the industry does not
Probably we can manage with few get the privilege to keep going with
customers, but the tough one may not the shipment schedules, we will lose
compromise. business, many orders will be stuck.
Because we are over the schedule from
Secondly, I am worried about my
the delivery dates currently due to the
workforce when they come back from
short and late supply of the yarns and
home. If the number of asymptomatic
fabrics.
employees are very high, then it will be
a big disaster even we start operation On the other hand, workers will go
on 6 August. The whole industry will be back to their places and when they will
very severely contagious and we may come back the probability of spreading
have to shut down our full operation for the corona will increase more. We
unlimited days. firmly believe the government will be
considered evaluating the current state.
Robin Razon Sakhawat

Director, Robintex Group
Lockdown will affect us negatively. After the first lockdown, it took us nearly
5 months to recover. Now things are finally looking better again and suddenly
we will face lockdown again. We fear buyers will cancel orders and shift to
competition. We strongly advise against factory closure.
An Innovation Hub

Nordstrom survey Digital Denim Week stages second
online edition
shows dramatic shift Zunaid Tanvir
among consumer Trade show organiser Première Vision finally staged
searches in post-
a physical event again, bringing together some 190
exhibitors the Grand Palais Éphémère, a temporary
pandemic
event venue in Paris. But the French organiser, a
specialist in trade events for the textile and apparel
industry, is still going digital with its other shows.
Zakir Hossain
The digital event's first edition notably attracted
As the U.S. continues to reopen, consumers dramatically more than 5,000 online visitors, with approximately
shift from the pre-pandemic era. And increasing numbers 1,500 people attending the event's conferences.
are looking for upgrading their wardrobe.
With this second edition, Denim Première Vision is keen
A recent survey by US department store chain to promote interaction between exhibitors and buyers,
Nordstrom found that a staggering 165% surge notably thanks to comprehensive online company
in customer searches for “work clothes” on its profiles and lively product presentations, and boosting
e-commerce site in the past few months. the conversation through live online debates.
Nordstrom recently surveyed 2,000 people in the “This is a historic time. Like any period of upheaval, it
USA to see how COVID has affected their fashion gives us a chance to reflect on our values and reinvent
picks as they begin to plan for life post-pandemic. ourselves. It’s already offering our industry new
More than one-quarter said their style reformed opportunities, though we might not yet be fully aware
during the pandemic. While 26% of people say they of them, or able to identify them,” said Adami Dalla Val,
no longer bother about keeping up with trends, Show Manager of Digital Denim Week in a press release.
35% say they are more open to trying new styles,
Nordstrom reported. Isko and Soorty join hands for
Nordstrom reported that 45% of customers say they garments collection
‘struggle to find clothes that are flattering for their body
type” and 43 percent “struggle to find clothes that fit.’ A H Monir
Overall, Nordstrom’s research found that most people Turkey’s denim mill Isko and Pakistan-based mill and
feel like they need an entirely new wardrobe coming manufacturer Soorty have decided to work together.
out of the COVID and that they are looking for They describe the work for the collection of fabrics
styling direction when it comes to dressing for social and garments as a landmark contract.
occasions. 35 35% of consumers say they feel bored At the same time, Isko integrates its technologies with
with the current clothes they own and 25% say their Soorty vertical production network, enabling them to
garments feel obsolete. Meanwhile, 40% feel they “meet the needs of customers on a larger scale.”
‘feel stuck in their style.’
On the other hand, the first collaborative effort is the
Isko Future Face by Soorty collection, which creates
165% customers 25%"outdated by using Isko’s technology and produced by Soorty
for the US market.
search for "work clothes" clothes"
online
Everlane puts organic cotton in denim
40% "feel stuck
40% women in their personal style"
Sanjay Saha
wearing different size Everlane, the clothing brand has launched a new
compared a year ago collection of denim shorts, baggy jeans, and a jacket.
1 in 5 say, sweatpants,
That uses The Global Organic Textile Standard
yoga, leggings as
45% "struggle to "most treasured item"
(GOTS) certified organic cotton.
find clothes that are Everlane has committed to moving all of its cottons
flattering for their body to certified organic by 2023. They have already guided
1 in 4 said T-shirts as in terms of its sustainability. Its current process of using
type"
go to item certified organic cotton in many items with a goal to
43% "struggle to
30% fashion
use all organic cotton in denim by 2023.
Also, it is working with a distribution center that’s
find clothes that fit"
inspiration from social 100% landfill-free and making all of its denim in a
media factory that recycles 98% of its water.
An Innovation Hub

Enroll a STB Black Belt program
Earn a professional qualification in
the Textile Indusrty
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mester 202 win
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for sion g
021
i o n
iss 02
Adm Winter 2
on fo
r New Opportunities Win o
ter ing
202
021
1
win
New Skills
r2
te
rS win ste
em 21 ter Seme
ester 20
New Career Scopes

Duration 4 Months/Semester (September - December 2021)
STB Key Areas

Printing (Digital Printing) Garment Washing & Chemical Management &
Dyeing Environment Sustainability
Fabric Manufacturing Fully Fashioned 3D Sampling and

Technology Garments Industry 4.0
Application of Lean and Apparel Marketing &

Industrial Engineering Merchandising Protective Clothing
Apparel Supply Chain

Denim Development Management
Call for Consultation & Enrollment

(Students & Entry Level Professionals) +88 01734211085
150+ 15+ 10+ 15+

Experts Factories Coordinators Partner Companies
Transforming Human Capital

Profitable & Effective Organization through People Leadership & Excellence
training@textiletoday.com.bd
www.training.textiletoday.com.bd
House 25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230
July 2021
July 2021
Manmade fiber: Record volume Carbon fiber:
a potential of organic World’s largest
prospect for BD cotton grown technical
RMG industry in 2019-20 textile sector
The Trust Protocol provides,
for the first time, annual and
verified data to brands and
retailers for seven areas of
sustainability aligned with the
U.N. Sustainability Goals.
Through third-party
verification, robust data inputs
and bale-to-mill trackability,
the Trust Protocol gives
brands and retailers the critical
assurances they need to prove
the cotton fiber element of
their supply chain is more
sustainably grown with lower
environmental and social risk.
The more sustainable cotton
choice, today and tomorrow.
To learn more contact:

Ali Arsalan
aarsalan@cotton.org
+88 02 5503 5410
F i b e r To d a y

prospect for BD RMG industry
Globally the use of manmade fiber-based apparel is Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) – a Switzerland-based
gaining traction among fashion lovers due to its various platform for global textile makers – Of all garment
aspects like superior features over cotton-based items produced globally MMF products account for
garments and are used for specific functionalities. 78%, while cotton fiber accounts for the rest.
Characteristics and features such as greater technical
When it comes to the manmade fiber product
performance, higher strength and versatility make
segments, polyester is the largest synthetic fiber
them desirable among the consumers.
segment by type. Polyester accounts for a market share
According to Grand View Research, the global of around 52% of total global fiber production every
synthetic fibers market size is estimated to reach year. Nearly 56 million tons of polyester are produced
$99.78 billion by 2028 registering a CAGR of 6.6% worldwide per year. The global polyester market is
over the forecast period. forecast to grow at over 6.3% CAGR and reach a market
size of US$98.4 Billion by 2025. Other major synthetic
Cumulative demand for clothing and apparel due to
fiber segments include Nylon, Acrylics, Polyolefin, etc.
the changing fashion trends across the world is likely
to fuel the market growth over the forecast period. Geographically, China is currently the largest
manufacturer of synthetic fibers, accounting for 66%
However, environmental concerns and threats from
of the global production of synthetic fibers every
natural substitutes may restrain the market growth
year. India is the second-largest producer with over
during the forecast period. Moreover, R&D activities on
8% of global production. Followed by other Asian
conductive textiles and nanotechnology in textiles are
(including Oceania) countries.
expected to provide potential growth opportunities.
Bangladesh’s prospect
The growing demand for technical textiles is
expected to offer a vast exponential growth and Although Bangladesh stood among the very top
potential opportunity for the MMF in the near and country in apparel manufacturing, but the country’s
long term. main strength has been the cotton segment. Almost
75% of apparel products of Bangladesh are cotton-
According to data from International Textile

MMF import amount (In tons) staple fiber (VSF)} mills in Bangladesh MMF market share
(in $ billion)
MMF market
120000 400
40 40 40 400
102219 99345 40 35
100000 350
35 33
78208 30 30 300
80000 72504
30 26
25 250
25
20 200 190
60000 20
40278 150
40000 15
29146 100
10
20000 5 50
0 0
0 Year 2019 Year 2025

BDT 12.02 bn
MMF import in Jan
to May 2021
25.86 22
MMF import grew
74.14
45.72% -
by
99,597 tons in
78
Jan to May 2021

Cotton fabric MMF
Cotton fiber MMF
An Innovation Hub

An initiative of Textile Today 63-65 Fiber Today 73-74 Spinning Today
MMF import amount (In tons) staple fiber (VSF)} mills in Bangladesh MMF market share
(in $ billion)
MMF market
120000 400
40 40 40 400
102219 99345 40 35
100000 350
35 33
78208 30 30 300
80000 72504
30 26
25 250
25
20 200 190
60000
The Team
20
40278 150
40000 15
29146 100
10
20000 5 50
0 0
0 Year 2019 Year 2025

BDT 12.02 bn
MMF import in Jan
to May 2021
25.86 22
MMF import grew
Tareq Amin 74.14

78
45.72% -
by
99,597 tons in
Jan to May 2021
Founder & CEO

Cotton fabric MMF
Cotton fiber MMF

prospect for BD RMG industry
Amzad Hossain Monir

Head of Business Development
66 Cotton Today
LENA and CROCOdoff

– The perfect match for
Rahbar Hossain efficient spinning
Akik Ahmed
Zunaed Tanvir
Business Development
75 Collaboration
Today
SN Abdullah
Research & Development
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol

Sanjoy Kumar Saha announces Levi Strauss & Co
Engagement & Communication and their legacy brands as new
members
Yeasin Mia
Graphic Design 68-69 Cotton Today Joint Venture between Fineotex
- Biotex & HealthGuard®,
Top 7 organic cotton-producing countries AUSTRALIA
Kyrgyzstan 12%
Zakir Hossain China 12%
Tanzania 5%
Jr. Executive, Web & IT Trade and Biz
India 50%
78
Turkey 10%
Tajikistan 4%
USA 3%
Jute Mill Privatization move
Ashraful Alam 24 firms
17 mills to
submitted 59
Cinematographer Record volume of organic
26 Mills
all closed, occupy
applications to
be leased
occupy
get 14 ute mills
1313.47-acre land on lease 949 acre
2 Indian, 1 No application
British companies submitted for 3
among applicants mills in Khulna
Mills to be leased Highest number
Md. Ariful Islam 70-72 Fiber Today for 5-20 years

with scope of
of applications
for Bangladesh
Jute Mills
extension
Md. Masudur Rahman
Abir Basak Carbon fiber: World’s largest
Bangladesh moving for jute
Editorial Contributions technical textile sector
mills privatization by this year
Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 99748
E. monir@textiletoday.com.bd
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
F i b e r To d a y
About 60 textile mills are currently producing

various types of synthetic yarns and fabrics including
Polyester staple fiber (PSF), Viscose staple fiber
(VSF), tensile and modal. Although in 2016 the number
was below 50. In two to three years, a few more textile
mills will go into production, BTMA data showed.
The three main manmade fibers -- polyester, viscose
and tencel -- have emerged as substitutes for cotton
fibers, bringing on a revolution in global fashion trends.
Hassan said Bangladesh could add at least US$ 2
billion in its export earnings yearly by grabbing the
growing global market of MMF textiles.
He asked for 10% incentive for the sector. Such
efforts will help create employment and boost
investment in the sector contributing to the overall
economy of the country.
Figure: Bangladesh could add at least US$ 2 billion in its export Higher investment challenge
earnings yearly by grabbing the growing global market of MMF
textiles. One of the main challenges of developing MMF
manufacturing capacity is that it needs a lot of
based and only 25% of the country’s apparel export investment. For instance, the whole investment in
contains non-cotton fashion products. the spinning sector currently stands at more than $8
billion but if manmade fiber-based industries grow
Globally, MMF-based apparel trade volume stood
further, it will need more investment.
US$150 billion in 2017. And Bangladesh’s market share
was only 5% against its rival Vietnam’s share of 10%. Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim
Expert Limited in Chittagong, said to media, “Most
Besides, cotton-made knitwear items prices are
brands are leaning towards synthetic or recycled
falling all over the world. It is one of the key reasons
fiber garments to make the business sustainable.
that Bangladesh cannot avail premium prices from
Entrepreneurs, as well as the government, must
international clothing brands and retailers.
come forward to take that opportunity. Because of the
For example, the country’s closest competitor lead-time constraints, we must invest in the production
Vietnam, is fetching more than double price by of synthetic or recycled fibers, yarns and fabrics. 1,200
manufacturing outerwear for people living in cold to 1,400 crore is required to build each factory.”
climates alongside high-quality blazers and woven
Hope on the horizon
formal shirts and trousers in the EU and US markets.
South Korea-based global conglomerate Youngone
Faruque Hassan said, "For instance, the price range
Corporation Chairman and CEO Kihak Sung said,
of a cotton fiber T-shirt made in Bangladesh could be
“I’ve apparel units in Vietnam. In the MMF section,
between $3 and $7."
Vietnam is doing well and Bangladesh’s RMG industry
RMG entrepreneurs must realize that cotton is not should follow it. They are doing fine and rising faster
the leading fiber in the market anymore. Rather than Bangladesh. We need to catch up with that.”
MMF products like polyester is taking the lead in the
KEPZ has established three world-class facilities of
global fashion trend and growing faster.
120,000 square meters (40000 square meters each),
Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA said, producing MMF with circular knitting, warp knitting,
“Readymade garment (RMG) exports to western weaving, dyeing, finishing, and lamination work. 2
markets have been declining, especially as new more will be constructed soon.
markets have suffered more economically as a
Altogether there will be 5 projects in total – of
result of COVID-19. Whereas, globally synthetic-
200,000 square meters – making MMF products
based apparel demand is growing 3% to 4% yearly.
and cotton blend which would be crucial for the
Bangladesh has a huge opportunity in grabbing
Bangladesh MMF backward linkage industries.
the global market for non-cotton based readymade
garment (RMG) exports.” Besides, some of the big names in the textile industry
are also coming and investing in the sector. One of
According to Bangladesh Textile Mills Association
the leading companies in the country DBL declared
(BTMA) recent data, manmade fibers import raised
that it will invest BDT 5.62bn for setting up a MMF
by 45.72% to reach 99,597 tons – costing BDT 12.02
fiber and fabrics manufacturing factory.
billion – in the first five months (January to May) of
this year compared to 68,348 tons during the same NZ TEX Group invested BDT 1bn to set up a factory to
period in 2020. produce polyester fiber from plastic bottles in Narayanganj.
An Innovation Hub

C o t t o n To d a y
Levi Strauss & Co and their legacy brands join

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol as new members
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol Story
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol a more sustainable and circular Levi Strauss & Co will also
welcomes new members Levi product strategy. participate in the pilot phase of
Strauss & Co, one of the most the Protocol Credit Management
“At Levi Strauss & Co., the quality
recognizable denim companies System which provides its
and sustainability of the cotton we
worldwide, and their legacy members with complete supply
use is critical to our business and
brands Levi’s®, Dockers®, Denizen® chain transparency through use
important to our customers,” said
by Levi’s®, and Signature by Levi of TextileGenesis’ blockchain
Jeffrey Hogue, Chief Sustainability
Strauss & Co.™ technology.
Officer, Levi Strauss & Co.
“Levi Strauss & Co. is a globally
recognized and respected brand
and we are proud to welcome
them as members,” said Dr.
Gary Adams, president of the
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.
“During the past 35 years, the
U.S. cotton industry has made
significant progress in reducing
our environmental impact and
the Trust Protocol is aligned with
the 2025 national goals to further
those improvements.
As a member, Levi Strauss & Co.
will receive farm level data which
will help them progress their
sustainability efforts and achieve
their cotton sourcing goals.”
The Trust Protocol has welcomed
more than 450 brand, retailer, mill
and manufacturer members since
its launch in 2020. This includes
Gap Inc. and its collection of
purpose-led lifestyle brands Old
Navy, Gap, Banana Republic and
Athleta as well as global apparel
Figure: The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol welcomes new members Levi Strauss & Co, one of manufacturer Gildan.
the most recognizable denim companies worldwide, and their legacy brands.
The Trust Protocol has also
More than 90 percent of Levi welcomed UK retailers Tesco, Byford
“Membership in the U.S. Cotton
Strauss & Co’s products are and Next Plc. Other Trust Protocol
Trust Protocol will be an important
cotton-based. The company member announcements include the
step and a key partnership in our efforts
has committed to sourcing 100 first 10 U.S. mills to join and the first
to source 100 percent more sustainably
percent more sustainably grown members in Latin America.
grown cotton,” Hogue added.
cotton focusing on decreasing
The Trust Protocol will aid Levi The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is
water use, cutting carbon
Strauss & Co.’s efforts by providing aligned with the UN Sustainable
emissions, and reducing fertilizer
verified data on sustainability Development Goals, recognized
and pesticide use.
practices from U.S. cotton growers by Textile Exchange and Forum
This corporate commitment to for the Future, and part of the
and access to aggregate year-
more sustainable and resilient Sustainable Apparel Coalition,
over-year data on critical metrics
cotton sourcing is part of a Cotton 2025 Sustainable Cotton
including water use, greenhouse gas
broader internal initiative designed Challenge, Cotton 2040 and
emissions, energy use, soil carbon,
to move the company toward Cotton Up initiatives.
soil loss and land use efficiency.
An Innovation Hub

C o t t o n To d a y
Record volume of organic

Rahbar Hossain
The 2019-20 crop year was a record-setting one, with organic cotton producers and at least another three
the largest volume of organic cotton fiber harvested countries are expected to join in the next few years.
globally. Textile Exchange’s 2021 Organic Cotton
Market Report revealed the data recently. The biggest contributors to the global growth seen
were Tanzania and Kyrgyzstan, followed by Uganda,
Top 7 organic cotton-producing countries the U.S., Pakistan, India and Turkey.
Kyrgyzstan 12% The demand for organic cotton has been growing
China 12% steadily, particularly in the last four years. All signs
point to increasing demand for organic cotton as
Tanzania 5%
brands expand their use of fiber in their product lines
India 50%
in response to concerns over the textile industry’s
Turkey 10% impact on the environment and consumer demands
Tajikistan 4%
for sustainable choices.
USA 3%
In total, 229,280 farmers grew 249,153 tons of

Farming practices used in organic
organic cotton fiber on 588,425 hectares of certified
agriculture to increase organic
organic land in 21 countries representing 4 percent
matter in soil
growth in fiber volume. And it is the fourth year in a
row that organic cotton production has increased, Crop rotation
according to the report. Organic cotton accounted
for almost 1 percent of the global cotton harvest in
Green manure
the season.
Ranked by production, the top seven organic cotton-

producing countries, which together account for Composting
95 percent of global production, were India at 50
percent, followed by China, Kyrgyzstan, Turkey,
Reduced tillage
Tanzania, Tajikistan and the U.S. Two new countries–
Uzbekistan and Myanmar–joined the lineup of
Recycling crop residue
50,552 hectares cotton
land conversion to
organic cotton in
2019-20
-equal 8% of certified India again had the most land in conversion to
production area organic, followed most closely by Turkey, Tajikistan
and Tanzania. At least 50,552 hectares of cotton land
were in conversion to organic cotton in 2019-20.
48% likely growth of This is equivalent to 8 percent of the total certified
organic cotton production area.
production in 2020-21
Organic cotton production is set to jump in 2020-
21, with an estimated 48 percent growth, stemming
Increased demand causing predominantly from India and Turkey.
Organic cotton fiber prices
avg. $2.10 per kg In India, this growth is largely a result of increased
While traditional cotton demand causing organic cotton prices to increase
prices avg. $1.85 per kg that led farmers and is leading existing producers to
An Innovation Hub

spare parts
suitable for
Indigenous knowledge & holistic land

management practices vital to organic AUTOCORO
farming systems
dedicate a larger share of their people in rural communities and

certified organic land to growing along the organic cotton supply
cotton versus other crops. chain.
In Turkey, increased demand In 2019/20, organic cotton

is also the main driver, but the fiber prices averaged $2.10 per
growth is more a result of new
producers starting up organic
kilogram compared to the Cotlook
A global index of traditional
AUTOCONER
cotton production. cotton prices that averaged
$1.85 per kilogram over the same
Textile Exchange urges all brands period.
to ‘plan for planting,’ including
supporting the conversion years In the area of regenerative
to ensure that organic will be agriculture, the report said the
available to meet their future positive association between
needs. organic agriculture and soil health
“is unquestionable.”
The report also discussed organic
cotton pricing. Also noted that Farming practices used in organic
with the current mismatch agriculture, such as crop rotation,
between supply and demand, the green manure, composting,
prices paid for organic cotton at reduced tillage and the recycling
all stages of the supply chain have of crop residue, can help increase
been increasing. the amount of organic matter–
including carbon–in the soil, the
“Whether this lasts will depend on
many factors, including the level
report mentioned. AUTODOFFING
of investment in capacity building, If these are maintained, soil
choice of sourcing models, depth structure will be improved and soil
of relationships and commitments erosion will be reduced, making
between supply chain actors,” the nutrients more easily available to
report added. the crops while also increasing the
abundance of soil fauna. These
The difficulty of ensuring a fair regenerative practices build on
price for all is a major barrier indigenous knowledge developed
to scaling up organic cotton by local farming communities
and other preferred fibers and throughout centuries. Indigenous
materials. While brands and knowledge and holistic land
retailers need to make a profit, management practices are vital to
their pricing decisions directly, organic farming systems and will
affect the livelihood and working
conditions of the most vulnerable
play a key role in agro-ecosystem GERMANY
regeneration and climate change
stakeholders–the millions of mitigation and adaptation.
Mail: info@samatex.de
Phone: +49 (0)9203 9731 0
www.samatex.de
F i b e r To d a y
Carbon fiber: World’s largest

technical textile sector
Shariful Islam Arvi
In textile terms and definitions, carbon fiber is fabric. The two most common types of weaves are
described as a fiber with at least 90 percent carbon plain wave and twill.
obtained by controlled pyrolysis of suitable fibers.
The term graphite fiber is used to describe more Plain weave is a checkerboard design, where each
than 99 percent carbon fiber. The properties of strand turns out then under each strand the other
carbon fiber make it special. Carbon fibers generally way. On the other side, in twill weave, each strand
have great tensile properties (500 ksi), high thermal moves on top of an opposite strand, then below two.
(subjected to aging at 240 °C for 3000 hours and Both twill and plain looms have the same amount of
at 270 °C for 2000 hours) and chemical stability carbon fiber on each side and their strength will be
in the absence of oxidizing agents, low heat and almost the same. The two are aesthetically distinct.
electrical conductivity (106 S/m), and excellent creep
resistance.
Carbon fibers are consisting of filament about 5-10

micrometers in diameter. Each carbon filament is
produced from a polymer such as polyacrylonitrile
(PAN), rayon or petroleum pitch. These polymers are
known as a precursor. After drawing or spinning, the
polymer filament yarns are heated to avoid non-
carbon atoms (carbonization) to produce the final
carbon fiber. Plain Weave 2x2 Twill Weave
Market size
Aerospace, automobiles, textile machinery, medical

applications, carbon fiber have played an important
role in all of these. In 1860, Joseph Swan produced
the first carbon fiber, for the use of light bulbs.
In any case, in the mid-1960s, fruitful commercial
production was begun, as the aeronautic trade's
prerequisites particularly for military airplanes for
better and lightweight materials was the fate of
foremost significance.
Today the use of carbon fiber has increased so

much that the size of the global carbon fiber market
Figure: Synthesis of Carbon Fiber. has grown rapidly. In 2020, the size of the global
carbon fiber market was 2.24 billion US dollars. The
worldwide effect of COVID-19 has been exceptional
For synthetic polymers such as PAN or rayon, the
and faltering, with the market seeing a slight drop
precursor is first spun into filament yarns, chemically
in interest across all districts amid the pandemic.
and mechanically aligning the polymer molecules
Therefore, the worldwide market showed a decrease
primarily to improve the final physical properties of
of 6.08% in 2020.
the finished carbon fiber.
The market is expected to develop from USD 2.34
However, compositions used during the spinning of
billion in 2021 to USD 4.08 billion in 2028 at a CAGR
yarn filaments may vary by mechanical processes
of 8.3% during the 2021-2028 periods. The abrupt
and manufacturers. As far as carbon fiber fabrics
decrease in CAGR is inferable from this current
are concerned, the spools of carbon fiber are taken
market's interest and development, getting back to
to a loom, where the fibers are then woven into the
pre-pandemic levels once the pandemic is finished.
An Innovation Hub

Automation
innovations.
From single machines
to complete mills
Our machines are becoming smarter, with technologies like automated operator
guidance and intelligent RFID-based material flow making operators’ work easier.
Saurer is the ideal partner for customers wishing to automate their entire mills.
Future-proof your production with our transport systems for cans, bobbins and
packages as well as automatic palletisers. The Senses Mill Management System
gives you full control over all this data.
saurer.com saurer.com
F i b e r To d a y
Figure: Global carbon fiber consumption according to dropable. In addition, the morphology and chemistry
applicable industry.
of their surfaces can be changed depending on the
Consumption requirements.
The United States currently consumes about 60 CFP will introduce new carbon fiber composition
percent of carbon fiber production, while the
Carbon Fiber Preforms (CFP) will use a zero-waste
Japanese represent about 50 percent of the world's
automated process to produce a variety of carbon
production capacity. Carbon fiber is mostly used
fiber composites. The company will present its
by the sports industry (Tennis rackets, golf clubs,
360-carbon fiber tooling board and FR.10 ultra-
softball bats, hockey sticks) along with aerospace,
high temperature carbon combination with both
defense, marine, transportation, and other industries.
materials, to provide outstanding performance in a
Textile processes like braiding (3-D) and perform
wide range of transportation and industrial sectors.
making are done by carbon fiber.
Teijin Tenax Carbon Fiber Prepreg adopted for
Innovations
UltraFan aero-engine nacelle
World’s first carbon fiber smartphone
On June 1,
After four years of R&D, Tejin Limited
engineers at Carbon (Tokyo,
Mobile, a European startup Japan)
company, have created a announced
revolutionary process for that its Tenax
unlocking the potential of Carbon Fiber
carbon fiber for connected Prepreg
devices. Carbon Mobile has had been
won the JEC Composites adopted
Connect Innovation Award for a part of the nacelle, a streamlined housing or
for the world's first carbon tank - to be used by the next-generation aircraft
fiber smartphone, the engine exhibitor, Ultrafan Airbus. A prototype, which
Carbon 1 MK II on June 2, Nikkiso co. Ltd. (Tokyo, Japan) is developing for
2021. The Carbon 1 MK II Airbus' Propulsion of Tomorrow project, which will
is a new technology that be delivered to Airbus by 2021.
creates a powerful carbon
Bugatti unveils the carbon fiber pool table
fiber-based housing
structure that is not only incredibly thin and light but Bugatti's collection always starts with a hyper sports
is made from less than five percent plastic. car parked in the garage of the high-performance
metaphor. But the new product in the Bugatti
Electronic for microbial technology
Lifestyle Collection is a pool table equipped with
Carbon fiber textiles are an optimal electrode carbon fiber, from the French Luxury Marque. Carbon
material for bio-electrochemical technology. These fiber finish, innovative self-leveling technology, made
are biocompatible, provide a high surface area in limited numbers with the best quality materials -
and a good electrical conductivity, and are highly Bugatti's new pool table reveals the carbon fiber pool
table that is true to the values of the luxury mark.
An Innovation Hub

S p i n n i n g To d a y
LENA and CROCOdoff – The perfect

match for efficient spinning
Every spinning mill around the world faces the dual challenge of high-energy consumption and
a shortage of skilled labor. The only way to remain competitive is to automate and increase
efficiency. This is where Novibra steps in with the Low-Energy and Noise-Absorbing Spindle LENA
and the underwinding-free clamping and cutting crown CROCOdoff.
Full reliability and long service deliver on these urgent market speed. The spindle itself maintains
life of spindles are decisive needs with LENA, which stands for the same speed and thus the
success factors for spinning mills. Low Energy and Noise Absorption desired yarn count and twist.
Modern spindles are expected to (Fig.1). LENA is the latest addition
deliver faster speeds and greater to Novibra’s spindle family and
productivity, no running-in time combines the company’s signature
and thanks to long lubrication spindle technology and design
cycles, less maintenance. The concepts with new features.
most important long-term goals Novibra’s spindle technology is
are energy and cost savings. characterized by a unique hydro
Furthermore, the falling number dynamic two-level bearing system
of available workers in today’s that effectively absorbs imbalances
spinning mills calls for more caused by belt tension, full cop
automation. Machines are now imbalances, traveller tension and
being upgraded with auto-doffers more. The absorption of imbalances
and spindles with underwinding is why the spindle can boast the
free crowns so that they can industry’s longest operational
run on fewer operators and less lifetime and high reliability.
maintenance.
Technical optimizations save
energy and reduce noise
LENA was designed to attain the Figure 2: CROCOdoff contributes to

fastest speeds with low energy efficient spinning by reducing time for
cleaning and maintenance.
consumption, reaching up to 30
000 rpm while saving on average The footstep-bearing unit
between 4 and 6% of energy. consists of a radial and an axial
LENA’s second damping system is bearing. The former is designed
why it can reduce noise efficiently. as a hydrodynamic plain bearing
This unique and well-proven Noise with the internal diameter of 3
Absorbing System Assembly, mm. Besides many other factors,
firmly established in Novibra NASA it is the small diameter of the
spindles, ensures both minimum shaft’s tip that allows further
neck bearing load and vibration energy savings, as the power
with little noise even at high consumption of the radial bearing
speeds. is directly influenced by its own
diameter. This correlation has
The LENA neck-bearing diameter
been confirmed already by the low
Figure 1: LENA spindle for lower energy was reduced to 5.8 mm and so
energy consumption of the HPS
consumption. consequently the wharve diameter
68/3 spindles. These optimizations
was also reduced to only 17.5
Novibra fulfils the market needs all add up to make significant
mm. From a power transmission
with LENA energy savings.
perspective and compared to
Novibra confirms its market spindles with a standard wharve CROCOdoff for Efficient Clamping
leadership and leverages its diameter, a smaller diameter allows and Cutting of the Yarn
proven spindle technology to operating the machine at lower
An Innovation Hub

S p i n n i n g To d a y Te x t i l e W o r l d
Novibra’s latest generation of reduction of energy consumption. easier. According to a customer

clamping and cutting crowns, located in Shandong, the
CROCOdoff (Fig. 2), offers CROCOdoff enables doffing CROCOdoff ends down rate during
improved functionalities and an without underwound yarn left on doffing is consistently around 2%
optimized design that meets the running spindle. The machine which means production efficiency
all the requirements of modern no longer needs to be stopped to is significantly higher. Maintenance
spinning mills. CROCOdoff clean the yarn catching area of the is optimized, because the cleaning
noticeably optimizes spinning spindle so that yarn production can be integrated in the general
automation as it not only helps to continues seamlessly. After doffing, machine cleaning routine that
reduce the required maintenance the yarn end flies out of the system takes place every two months – in
time and costs. It also allows and no open yarn tails are able to contrast to traditional yarn cutters
running the ring spinning machines consume expensive energy. that need to be cleaned every two
more efficiently and economically days. The lower workload enabled by
The secret lies in the efficient
and thus contributes to a CROCOdoff provides more flexibility
clamping of the yarn. The catching
to assign operators to other tasks.
area of the crown has a meander
for catching and cutting the yarn. In the face of labor scarcity, a
It is clamped tightly and prevented highly reliable, self-cleaning system
from slipping out. Extensive with a low ends down rate is a great
tests conducted on different raw opportunity for modern spinning
materials proved the reliability of mills to improve automation of their
the system. It has been confirmed ring spinning machines.
in practice through the reduction
of the after-doff ends down rate. Modern Spinning Mills Count on
LENA and CROCOdoff
Customer Benefits – Lower
Ends Down Rates, Reduced In this ideal combination, LENA
Maintenance spindles and CROCOdoff crowns
(Fig.3) significantly contribute
Novibra customers in China who to energy savings during
compared CROCOdoff with spinning and higher productivity.
traditional underwinding systems Furthermore, they allow reduced
reported a four to six times lower maintenance and create a lower
Figure 3: LENA spindle and CROCOdoff
ends down rate. Their cleaning noise level in spinning mills – even
clamping crown – the perfect match for procedure also became much at the highest spindle speeds.
efficient spinning
India's cotton, jute export optimistic

growth trend continues in June
Imran Sikdar
Exports of cotton yarn/fabrics/ exports rose 18.83 percent during showing negative growth in June
made-ups, handloom products June 2021, when compared with 2021 over June 2019 include cotton
etc. form India shot up 50.86 June 2019. Exports in June 2020 raw & waste (-51.03 percent),
percent in June 2021 over June were affected due to the COVID-19 leather & leather products (-18.43
2019, according to the preliminary pandemic, and hence that month's percent), and textile yarn fabric,
data on India's merchandise figures are not used for comparison. made-up articles (-9.66 percent),
trade in June 2021 released by the as per the government data.
However, leather and leather
country's ministry of commerce &
manufactures (-21.0 percent), In terms of overall trade, India
industry. Jute exports, including floor
readymade garments (RMG) of was a net importer in June 2021
covering, increased by 23.97 percent
all textiles (-18.76 percent), were with a trade deficit of $9.4 billion,
in June 2021 over June 2019.
among the major commodity widened by 1,426.6 percent over
Among other textile categories, groups of export showing negative trade surplus of $0.71 billion in
export of man-made yarn/ growth in June 2021 over June June 2020 (India was net exporter
fabrics/made-ups etc. jumped by 2019, the data showed. in June 2020) and narrowed down
23.66 percent, while handicrafts, by 41.26 percent over trade deficit
Major commodity groups of import
excluding hand-made carpet, of $16.0 billion in June 2019.
An Innovation Hub

C o l l a b o r a t i o n To d a y
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News and Analysis
India starts direct raw materials

export to Bangladesh
Sabbir Hossain
In a new initiative by Indian railways, the transportation deliveries of the raw material has made it difficult to
of raw materials like yarn, fabric and goods from live up to the commitments of the shipment,” said
Ludhiana’s textile and garment companies will be Hasin Arman, Treasurer, BAYLA and Director of MB
exported directly by train to Bangladesh. Knit Fashion Ltd.
Praising the decision Hasin Arman, Treasurer, BAYLA
and Director of MB Knit Fashion Ltd. said, “In this
situation, the Indian government has taken this
strategic decision very wisely. This initiative will
increase more business possibilities with the Indian
yarn market. Also, the competitive price and fast
delivery will break the current monopoly in the yarn
market, hence the yarn price will become a bit stable.”
To mitigate this problem and to facilitate the Rail
users to move their quantities in smalls like up to
a maximum of 500 tons in each trip, the Ambala
Division of Northern Railway took the initiative and
Figure 1: Railway’s Ambala division in collaboration with MGH started the Special Parcel train to Bangladesh.
Group has started this facility on 27.
This has helped the merchants to market their products
Railway’s Ambala division in collaboration with MGH beyond the country border by transporting the Cotton
Group has started this facility on 27 June when for Yarn in small quantities through the Special Parcel train.
the first time railways loaded a special parcel train Accordingly, one special parcel train consisting of 20
full of cotton yarn beyond the country borders to parcel vans moved to Benapole in Bangladesh.
Benapole in Bangladesh from Ambala Cantt station. Each VPU was loaded with 430 cartons, weighing
This train, which consists of 20 parcel vans (VPU), around 23 tons and the total weight carried by the
was flagged off on 28 June in the presence of senior special parcel express is around 468 tons.
railway officials at Ambala. The cost per ton for carrying by Special Parcel train
According to the Railways, the customers opting is Rs 5,491 and which is very cheap and economical
for this facility will get end to end transportation as compared to Road transport which is much higher.
solutions like exporting yarn, Fabrics & FMCG (Fast
Moving Consumer Goods) from their respective
factories across Ludhiana and Baddi to their buyers’
factories in Bangladesh including the customs
clearance on both the sides of the border. In this situation, the Indian government
At the same time, the 20-parcel van was flagged off in has taken this strategic decision very
the presence of railway officials in Ambala on Monday. wisely. This initiative will increase more
According to Railways, customers availing of this business possibilities with the Indian
facility will get duty-free from their respective
factories across Ludhiana and Buddy, as well as end
yarn market. Also, the competitive price
the solution of transporting export boxes, clothes, and fast delivery will break the current
and FMCG (Fast Moving Consumer Goods) to their monopoly in the yarn market, hence the
buyer’s factory in Bangladesh. Which is important for
the boundaries of both sides.
yarn price will become a bit stable.”
Arti International, Cedar Textiles, Garg Acrylic, Nahar
Spinning, and Burdwan Textiles are some of the Hasin Arman
potential customers from Ludhiana.
Treasurer, BAYLA
“As we all know the current market order flow is Director of MB Knit Fashion Ltd.
positive but the recent yarn price hike in the market
has made it difficult to grab the orders also the late
An Innovation Hub

Tra d e a n d B i z
Bangladesh moving for jute

mills privatization by this year
All 26 jute mills are now closed and 17 will be leased
Amena Kamal Khan
Once called the ‘golden fiber’ of

Bangladesh – jute now lost its
glory. It was a major export item in
Jute Mill Privatization move
the 80s before the advent of the
readymade garment industry.
24 firms
Though the export earnings submitted 59
17 mills to
from jute and jute products 26 Mills be leased
applications to
grew nearly 32 percent in just all closed, occupy get 14 ute mills occupy
concluded Fiscal Year, over the 1313.47-acre land on lease 949 acre
decades, the govt. owned mills
were incurring huge losses due 2 Indian, 1 No application
to various reasons like outdated British companies submitted for 3
machinery, poor maintenance, among applicants mills in Khulna
and no diversification of products
which led government decided to Mills to be leased Highest number
lease state-owned jute mills to the
for 5-20 years of applications
private sector.
with scope of for Bangladesh
Jute industry history-at a glance extension Jute Mills
On 26 March 1972, the Bangladesh

Jute Mills Corporation (BJMC) lease the mills as per the Industrial manage the mills' infrastructure,
was formed by a presidential Enterprise Nationalization Act equipment, and land, and run
order to supervise, regulate, and 2018. And BJMC hope the move the facilities under their own
manage 78 mills, including private will revive the jute mills mired in management.
and abandoned ones, as well as debt and losses.
The BJMC will remain as a
those owned by the former East
In total, 24 companies have monitoring body to oversee
Pakistan Industrial Development
submitted 59 tenders for the whether the investors are
Corporation.
lease of 14 mills. Apart from complying with the terms and
According to the BJMC, in fiscal local entrepreneurs, two Indian conditions. BJMC will also lay
year 2018-19, the jute mills incurred companies and one from the UK, off 90 percent of its 2,900 staff
losses of Tk573.58 crore up by have submitted lease applications. officers and maintain a small
Tk76 crore than the previous workforce only to monitor
Textiles and Jute Minister Golam
FY. Currently jute mills debt is compliance issues.
Dastagir Gazi said, “The workers
Tk2,387.89 crore.
who lost jobs for the closure of They will only be allowed to
Finally, in July 2020, government the mills will get job opportunities produce jute goods and diversified
decided to close down the BJMC on a priority basis when the mills jute products on the jute mill lands.
jute mills. would be re-launched.”
Foreign firms showing interest in
Leasing to private entrepreneurs BJMC is optimistic that by leasing lease
This year, the Bangladesh govt. the mills to the private sector
Mohan Jute and Pacific Jute of
decided to lease state-owned will increase the production of
India and the Jute Republic in
jute mills to the private sector to jute goods and diversified jute
London have submitted lease
resuscitate the jute industry and products, and exports will also rise.
applications.
the procedure is expected to be Sources say the government will
BJMC's Ehteshamul said the
completed by this year. All 26 jute lease the jute mills for 5 to 20
privatization of the state-owned
mills are now closed and 17 of years and there will be options to
mills would lead to a competitive
them will be leased. extend it further later. As per the
environment.
The government now wants to terms of the lease, the lessees will
An Innovation Hub

Presents
Textile Today Innovation Meets

July 2021
Working Recognizing Creating Professional

together to sustainability competitive Development: Industry
regain in the new advantage for should stimulate it for
exports context RMG themselves
Textile Today Innovation Meets
Presents
July 2021
Te x T I M e E p i s o d e 7
Working together
to regain exports
Md. Eousup Novee
Bangladesh’s apparel industry,

the lifeline of the economy with
an 83% contribution to exports,
has passed the gloomy year 2020.
In its over 35 years of journey,
the apparel sector suffered
the worst crisis in 2020 as the
Covid-19 pandemic has brought a
devastating impact on the sector
to drag the export earnings down.
Right after June 2020, RMG
exports has witnessed a gradual
growth for a due resilience of
manufacturers and associated
people in this country. Export
started to bring back a noticeable
Figure 1: Textile today enquired the top two captains of the industry as to how exports
turnaround from August 2020. can grow again in the episode titled ‘Working Together to Regain Exports in TexTIMe.
A concern surfaces now that

political turmoil that may refrain Ali Khokon, President, BTMA were
buyers are offering so low prices
them from the positive hope for present in the webinar as panelists
that profitability of factories
apparel export. Moreover, financial where Tareq Amin, Founder
are declining day by day. In this
and other policy supports from & CEO, Textile Today was the
squeezing prices, some are yet
government can also help the moderator.
being compelled to take orders
sector to grow.
without prioritizing the profit but Moderator denoted the impacts
to simply stay in operation. Textile today enquired the top of the Covid 19 with the facts on
two captains of the industry as to the textile and apparel industry
In case of sourcing major raw
how exports can grow again in the of Bangladesh in the inception
materials, factories are facing
episode titled ‘Working Together of webinar. Tareq asked both
inconvenience due the price hike
to Regain Exports in TexTIMe on panelists as to why textile factories
and delay of imports. The price
27th June 2021. Faruque Hassan, were required to remain open
of yarn, in particular, has soared
President, BGMEA and Mohammad despite worsen Covid infection
in the last couple of months that
pushes apparel manufacturers in a
more challenging situation. Year on Year Comparison of RMG Export
(IN MILLION)
Despite negative export growth,
we can see ample opportunity 35000 31734
of industry in the days onward. 30000 28562
BD’s competing countries are 25709
25000
also facing troubles to stay
stable. Buyers may not secure 20000
better options than that of 15000
Bangladesh overnight. China is
10000
of desirous to offload apparel
volume due to the concentration 5000
of value added items for the last 0
few years. Myanmar is also in a 2018/19 (July-May) 2019/20 (July-May) 2020/21 (July-May)
PRE- COVID DURING COVID DURING COVID
Bangladesh
Title Sponsor Powered by Organized by An Innovation Hub

will see normal rhythm of exports.

In terms of ethical manufacturing,
Bangladesh scored as high as
secured second position after
Taiwan, BGMEA President
mentioned. Factories invested a
lot to secure workplace in the last
couple of years that fetched us
international recognitions. He also
expected that there will be more
orders in future because of the
readiness of factories. He showed
his concern of poor pricing from
buyers despite putting all efforts
to make ethical manufacturing
Figure 2: Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA.
conditions.
rate. Both BGMEA and BTMA workforces, to repay the banks Replying the question ‘How the
Presidents observed that the age and to run operations just to backward linkage or primary
range of the RMG workforce was survive, Hassan mentioned. textile can support of regaining
between 18 to 35 years. They have export of RMG’ asked by the
Khokon observed that it was
comparatively more resistance Moderator Khokon shared that
a perception in the past for
capacity and immunity in the they contributed USD 18 billion
Bangladeshi factories –“we do
susceptibility of Covid. Factories out of USD 28 billion to this
stitch only”. This perception is no
could manage well of sanitization, year including 95 percent of knit
more relevant now as 70 percent
wearing masks and necessary fabrics. He recalled that in the last
of the demand of RMG gets
arrangements to get protected year, the contribution of backward
fulfilled by local textiles for knit
from Covid. linkage (yarn & fabric) was USD
and woven. He expressed that “we,
Moreover, the workers left Dhaka the BGMEA, BTMA, and BKMEA 23 billion out of USD 34 billion. He
due to closure of factories in the are brothers –not step brothers observed that backward linkage
last year which rather created not cousin”. All are complimentary now supports 65 percent of total
more susceptibility of infection. to each other. demand of yarn and fabric.
BTMA President observed BTMA President observed that
Hassan informed that export
that the infection rate among the price of cotton increased due
size would be USD 31 billion of
garment workers was very low to the interruption of harvesting
in the fiscal year 2020-2021. He
in comparison. Hassan informed fibre. Covid hit the farming that
forecasted that RMG export will
that they install three PCR labs eventually pushed the cotton
be getting back to previous level
in Dhaka and Chittagong where price up. Gap of the demand
(USD 34 billion) in the next year.
workers can do test free of cost. and supply also leads to increase
And after October 2021, industry
They observed that the buyers’
countries eased their social life
and reopened markets as Covid Global apparel export market
situation improved. The demands share of top five countries
60%
of cloths got back – factories
responded to orders accordingly. 50.22%
50%
BGMEA President observed that
global consumption and usage 40%
have declined as no country in the
30.08%
world stays in a better position 30%
due to Covid 19. He recalled that
some orders were cancelled in 20%
the last year; among them some
backed later on. Several factories 10% 6.8% 6.2%
3.5% 3.2%
could not get their payment
because of some buyers were 0%
China Bangladesh Vietnam India Turkey Rest
got bankrupt in the meantime.
Factories had to take orders yet
Figure 3: Textile today enquired the top two captains of the industry as to how exports
with estimated losses to retain the can grow again in the episode titled ‘Working Together to Regain Exports in TexTIMe.
Bangladesh

Fashion up
Gro
Power
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conc Email: mija
like Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

(KSA) BGMEA President said
that China’s policy of offloading
RMG was helping us, we were also
doing homework for exploring new
market like KSA. He put his stance
of exploring virtual market as well.
In case of efficiency, Bangladesh
installed world class technologies,
BTMA President pointed. He
observed that there is a difference
of efficiency measurement
between primary textiles and
garments where former one was
a capital and machinery intensive
Figure 4: Mohammad Ali Khokon, President, BTMA.
and later one was a labor intensive.
both the cotton and organic it will be easier for us to reach 50 BGMEA is going to set up a center
cotton prices 100 percent to 200 billion milestone. of efficiency and innovation
percent worldwide. He shared where they would work for
He observed that availability of
that the local market’s demand increasing efficiency and adopting
gas and captive power were vital
of cloths also shocked due to innovations, Hassan informed. He
to setup woven factory. Though,
Covid. Bangladesh’s market size is observed that factories should
woven factory requires big
USD 8 billion (survey conducted concentrate on diversification
investment - Chinese and local
by BTMA, Tariff Commission along with specialization of some
investors are ready to invest. New
and Bangladesh Bank). BGMEA areas, he replied in the question of
economic zone should arrange
President observed that growth strategy factories can take.
separate zone for textile factories.
primary textiles should be price Amin posed that “the way we
He added that Bangladeshi Denim
competitive. They should compete negotiate with government, can’t
factories are already performing
with international market for yarns we negotiate with buyers for
well in quality, SCM and other
and fabrics. getting higher prices”. Hassan
parameters.
In the query of achieving of 50 replied that we need to work here
Woven sub-sector was growing
billion target – Hassan observed to negotiate for better prices
before Covid. To explain recent
that there were two reasons for though he also linked the matter
situation of woven sector Hassan
lagging behind the reaching to of demand and supply.
said the global consumption of
target: In the query of areas of working
woven declined due to Covid but it
1. Global fashion market shrinked would be increasing in the coming together- Khokon termed that
in 2015, and there was no growth years. they were working together for
in the later there-four years. ensuring compliance, workers’
They could do well in woven
Moreover, it slummed 12 percent in safety, government policies, rules
with the product diversification,
2020. and regulations, several duties
particularly in the items made of
(customs, tax, VAT etc). Hassan
2. Global demand of non-cotton manmade fibre. There was a ready
expected that both BGMEA,
items was 70 to 75 percent market for these segments, Hassan
BKMEA and BTMA would work
whereas we export cotton items 75 added.
together to market garments,
percent alone out of total export.
In response to a question from the research and explore new markets.
We require to adopt it to meet the
audience regarding China current
gap. Khokon observed that if we In reaction to a question about
factor and new market explore
could do well in woven sub-sector, difficulties in the entrance of new
entrepreneur Hassan emphasized
Global apparel export market share of top five countries on reasons that triggered the
difficulties: First of all, the required
Country 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
investment to setup a garment
China 39.30% 36.40% 34.90% 31.30% 30.08% factory was much higher than that
Bangladesh 5.40% 6.40% 6.50% 6.40% 6.80% of 20 years back. Secondly, some
Vietnam 4.80% 5.50% 5.90% 6.20% 6.20% factories having common items
reached to over capacity. But we
India 4.10% 4% 4.10% 3.30% 3.50%
always welcome new comers into
Turkey 3.40% 3.40% 3.30% 3.10% 3.20%
the industry.
Bangladesh

Recognizing sustainability
in the new context
TexTIMe Team
Sustainability denotes meeting the present needs

without compromising the future needs of natural,
social and economic resources. The sustainability
practices of manufactures is an imperative agendum
for business, it is also becoming an integral part of Social
the way product is marketed, purchased, operated
and delivered. Products manufactured, requires to
put sustainability in policy and practice at all levels
Bearable
of their life cycle. To stay sustainable, it requires Equitable
applying the BAT (Best Available Techniques)
Sustainable
to reduce water consumption, minimize wastes
generation and bring down energy consumption to
lessen greenhouse gas emissions, etc. Environment
Viable
Economic
Figure 2: Connected Components of Sustainability.
circular economy and sustainable supply chains.

A question now comes if the buyers and
manufacturers rejuvenating the sustainability for
Figure 1: Zahir Ahsan, Commercial Director at COATS textile and apparel in this new context.
Bangladesh.
The TexTIMe 9th episode on ‘Sustainability in the
The responsibility for sustainability lies to all New Context’ was conducted by Textile Today on 11th
stakeholders including, buyers, manufactures, raw July 2021 Sponsored by COATS. Kazy Mohammad
material suppliers and the government. There should Iqbal, South Asia Regional Sustainability Manager
be business cases of sustainability along with the at Lindex HK. Zahir Ahsan, Commercial Director
environmental and social dynamics. Sustainability at COATS Bangladesh. And Anwarul Islam, Head
itself has a dilemma of both the costs and savings. of Sustainability Pacific Jeans Group were present
Factories can get motivated either by direct savings as Panelists. The webinar was moderated by Tareq
from the costs of sustainability initiatives or return at Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today.
product prices out of the investment made. Kazy Mohammad Iqbal mentioned that “In the last
Sustainability in the new context of pandemic: two years, Covid has had a huge impact on the
Though the term sustainability was trending for

years, it is growing even thicker in the current and
apparent future situation. Attitude and response of
buyers, connecting the business sustainability, have
also been tested in the pandemic time.
A survey conducted by Populus (research
organization) among UK consumers - 50 percent of
consumers expect that the textile industry should
become more sustainable, where only 19 percent of the
polls it to go back the way it was pre-pandemic. It shows
that consumers realize the positive impact of ethical
Figure 3: Zahir Ahsan, Commercial Director at COATS
fashion and are ready to push the industry towards a Bangladesh.
Bangladesh

Business Sustainable policy & program

management
Investment
Origin
Raw materials
and auxiliaries Specification
Handling
Ratio
Sustainability in action
Electricity
Energy Heat
Renewable energy
Consumption Figure 5: Kazy Mohammad Iqbal, South Asia Regional

Water Sustainability Manager at Lindex HK.
Recycle rate
thread production, 7% reduction in energy use
Production
OEE within manufacturing. They are passionate about
process Reject rate recycling with a 25% reduction in waste by 2022
Specification and going to ensure 100% recycled of all premium
Product
Packaging polyester thread by 2024. The values of the COATS
Sustainability plan are already got well recognized,
Waste management
Waste & emission
management
Ahsan told in the webinar.
Packaging
Kazy Mohammad Iqbal said, “In European market

Figure 4: Areas of sustainability action. mechanism, brands cannot increase product price
all of a sudden. They are trying to categorize
supply chain management of our RMG sector but
we are still in a competitive position comparing with 25% Reduction in
other manufacturing countries.” waste by 2022
100% Recycled 5 Pillar of sustainability
polyester by 2024 1. Water
Tareq Amin asked Kazy Mohammad Iqbal “As you 2. Energy
work with a brand, you have seen that the market 3. Effluent & Emissions
4. Social
improved and deteriorated, do you think Covid has Zero
Discharge of
5. Living Sustainability
witnessed any transformation in the sustainability of Hazardous

Chemicals
the RMG sector?” 40% Reduction
in water
Energy
He answered back that sustainability has become savings within
manufacturing
much more mature and we are dealing with this 7%
situation much better in the critical Covid's time. You Source renewable
will notice that millions of workers are constantly energy
working in this sector but their infection rate is much

lower than in other sectors which means that our Pioneering a
industries have been able to continue their activities Sustainable Future
by
hygienically, Iqbal told. COATS
Anwarul Islam, Head of Sustainability Pacific Jeans Figure 6: Selected pillars and outcome of pioneering a
sustainable future project by COATS.
Group said that to face the challenges of Covid, our
industries have started emphasizing sustainability.
All the linkages of the industry have started working sustainable products and non-sustainable products,
together which was not seen before. Maintaining trying to promote and create awareness for
rules of hygiene, our workers have shown the most sustainable products. Here we have a scope of
courage in tackling this challenge that made it increasing the value of our products by focusing on
possible for us to keep the factory running. sustainable products since end users are willing to
pay more for a sustainable product.”
Zahir Ahsan, Commercial Director at COATS
Bangladesh Ltd. told, the textile sector disposes He observed that our groundwater source is limited
of 100 million tons (approximately) of waste every and so we have to think of alternatives like rainwater
year, which is harmful to the environment. We are harvesting, waterless dyeing, water re-use, etc.
currently working to recycle this textile waste - is a
Zahir Ahsan observed that we are throwing eight
big part of sustainability, he added.
million plastic pieces into the ocean every day, in
He spoke about the 5 pillars of sustainability as - 1. every minute one million plastic bottles are being
Water, 2. Energy, 3. Effluent & Emissions, 4. Social purchased around the world. That means plastic
and 5. Living Sustainability. Based on these points, is a big concern for us and we need to think about
COATS is running the “Pioneering a Sustainable how we can re-use and recycle plastic. In 2018,
Future” project. Throughout this project, COATS COATS launched ecoVerde which is 100% recycled
achieved a 40% reduction in water used for premium polyester thread that comes from the flex
Bangladesh

production capacity of about 3.2 MW and 25 MW

which will be completed by 2022. One of our two
industries is Platinum and another is Gold Certified.
At present, our Platinum Factory can save about
40% energy and 44% Water. Initially, it took a big
investment to certify for ‘Platinum’ but now we are
enjoying the benefits of saving Energy and Water.
We have also been able to stop the use of PP spray
by using laser technology which has greatly reduced
the use of water. The laser technology not only
improved the product quality but also contributed
Figure 7: Anwarul Islam, Head of Sustainability Pacific Jeans Group. to making the product sustainable. We are also
working on recycling. We have exported 25% organic
of used PET bottle. One kg of PET fiber requires 67
products in the last 6 months which included 100%
plastic bottles which carbon footprint is very less. All
recycled content, Anwarul Islam informed.
polyester fiber plastics are in the process of being
recycled by 2024, he added. However, in our country, we have a huge scope of
working on recycling. If we can recycle the waste
Anwarul Islam, Head of Sustainability Pacific Jeans
materials obtained from the garment, it will support
Group observed that the initial investment of
us to overcome the cotton demand we now see.
sustainability is costly but if we think of far-reaching,
We have already talked to a brand about whether
it can fetch many benefits in turn. For example, if we
our country’s cutting wastes can be recycled and
invest in 2021, we will start reaping the benefits in the
hopefully we can start it soon.
next 4-5 years out of that investment. We currently
have two projects in the EPZ to recycle used water. Although we have many challenges, our owners are
According to the cost calculation, water recycling cost interested to become sustainable. Since it’s costly, it will
equals the usual process of water consumption. What be very easy to work on it if we can get government
we are gaining here is saving the natural resource. support along with the buyer, Islam added.
We are also working on two solar projects with a Finally, Zaheer said that it’s everyone’s responsibility
to make the RMG sector of the country sustainable.
Norsel Textilmaschinen AG
NORSEL AG, Switzerland
Reduce the number of human error caused of hand writing on grey fabric.
Saving fabric wastage by decreasing of marking size.
No more re-working because of lost information on the fabrics.
No mix up of fabric roll and easy sorting.
www.norsel.com
Full control of fabric inventory.
Track and trace fabric roll through all textile process. BD hotline: +8801760385555
Creating competitive
advantage for RMG
Md. Eousup Novee Bablu
It was long been claimed that the competitive

advantage in RMG for Bangladesh was of “cheap
labor” comparing to other manufacturing countries.
Being a labor-intensive industry, availability of
working people remains to be vital to the RMG sector.
Natural resources, particularly water pours positivity in
terms of competitive advantage for the textile industry.
The government, in past, has also played a pivotal role
in shaping the competitiveness of the RMG sector.
A question now comes up that if Bangladesh still
dominates a position as a competitive country for being
Figure: (Clockwise) Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today;
a global hub of apparel sourcing. Engr. Md. Shamsuzzaman CIP, Ex-President, ITET & Managing
Director, Micro Fibre Group; Mohammad Hatem, First Vice
In terms of skillsets, Bangladesh shows a 5 to 7% President, BKMEA & Managing Director, MB Knit Fashion.
gap with China. A polished and efficient SCM of
China leads to superior productivity. Turkey also resilience of entrepreneurs in Bangladesh are one of
could well-managed supply chain that has awarded the key factors of competitive advantage. Here, almost
the country a strong foundation as a manufacturing 99 percent of entrepreneurs are local where our competing
destination. Both the countries hold 15 to 17% higher countries have 90 percent foreign investors, Hatem told.
operational efficiency in the supply chain than that Zaman observed that there are certain things we
of Bangladesh. It (SCM) creates a phenomenal need to do to stay competitive - 1. Product development
competitive advantage for these countries. 2. Quality product and 3. On-time delivery. He told that if
In Bangladesh, though factories were not in we can do well in these three points, buyers will continue
competition with other factories in the past. They to rely on us. It is not easy to perform well in these three
now compete with each other to take orders that critical points, he remarked.
ultimately lower the price down. They used to do it for In the matured industry of 40 years, why we are still
feeding the operating and fixed costs of the extra-large taking orders in loss, Moderator asked. Hatem agreed
factories comparing to the other competing countries. that factories are taking orders at a loss just to stay
Textile today enquires into the current and future in the operation of factory. Another crucial thing is
sphere of competitiveness of the RMG industry in that those who have bank loans, have to take orders
the episode titled ‘Creating Competitive Advantage’ even in the loss to service their liabilities monthly.
in TexTIMe on 4th July 2021. Engr. Md. Shamsuzzaman Internal rivalry or competition also puts factories in
CIP, Ex-President, ITET & Managing Director, Micro Fibre additional pressure. This unhealthy competition of the
Group and Mohammad Hatem, First Vice President, factories could create a problem. Factories compete
BKMEA & Managing Director, MB Knit Fashion were with each other from which buyers take opportunity to
present in the webinar as panelists. Tareq Amin, Founder get prices down. He also lamented that ethical buying
& CEO, Textile Today moderates the webinar. practices should be maintained by buyers’ side as
well. Though buyers continuously advocate for ethical
In the inception, Tareq pointed a survey that
trading initiatives they merely follow it.
showed - 39 percent of the factories were taking
orders in loss. He also recalled the information from In the question of strategy and marketing, Hatem
the BGMEA President in a recent past webinar of told that more than 80 percent of factories were poor
TexTIMe. He enquired that as to where competitive in negotiations and marketing.
advantage lies in the RMG of Bangladesh. In the 1990s, competitive advantage was found in -
Hatem observed that there was no competitive there was 25 percent of government incentive, cheap
advantage of ‘cheap labor’ rather ‘availability of labor, and no tight issue of the environment while
workers easily’ might be one of the competitive no ETP was required - in that time profit was much
advantages for us. Secondly, the devotion and but order quantity was less. Later on, government
Bangladesh

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Figure 2: Mohammad Hatem, 1st Vice President, BKMEA & Figure 3: Engr. Md. Shamsuzzaman CIP, Ex-President, ITET &
Managing Director, MB Knit Fashion Ltd. Managing Director, Micro Fibre Group
incentives started to go down and touches to 5 Major sources of competitive advantage

percent. And compliance and other issues come to the
Competitive advantage
surface with the growth of the industry, Zaman told.
Hatem informed that almost 2000 factories have
been closed for the last few years. Zaman observed
Cost Differentiation Order cycle management
that factories got composite in nature to secure
advantage advantage advantage
many associated items under a single umbrella.
He also observed that China and other competing 1. Cost of manufacturing 1. Product variety 1. Country branding
countries do not do it as likely we do. China, 2. Variable cost 2. Factory reputation 2. Marketing strength
particularly, gained expertise in a single item that 3. Overall operating cost 3. Overall management 3. Supply chain
made them extra-ordinary for that particular item.
But he thinks that being a composite may be good in
that if government even eagers to help and grow
some cases. He observed that many small factories
the sector but officials of implementation are not
getting closed. They want to gain excessive profit
cooperative to do so.
that creates a curse for them, Zaman noticed.
In case of SCM, Zaman observed that internal
In the issue of corporate culture, professionalism and
capacities had grown with prior planning. Moreover,
innovation – some factories are doing well and they are
there are many accessories companies in Bangladesh
getting competitive advantage out of it. Both the panelists
now, so factories do not face difficulty much for it.
were hopeful that next generations of the industry would
Except zipper accessories sub-sector is capable of
be smart enough to take the industry forward.
supporting RMG factories.
Which magic works well for Micro Fibre Group,
In terms of compliance, both panelists told that
moderator asked - Zaman replied that they could
though factories invested their time, effort and
prepare a home trained, skilled and capable team
money heavily, they don’t receive a premium out of
in knitting, dyeing and merchandising. Next on,
it. Sometimes, factories bear unnecessary burdens
they meticulously choose and focus on product
from compliance bodies in some issues, they added.
development. They have grown expertise in fleece
fabric which was dominated by the Chinese market For human sources, Zaman observed that there was
in the past. He also suggested that our factories capable textile engineers and other professionals to drive
should look at China and Vietnamese factories as to the industry. Hatem added that professionals need to be
how they are doing well in business. more innovative and proactive to solve critical issues.
We are still importing polyester types of fabrics from In case of current hike of yarn price, Hatem observed
China. Basic or conventional items got saturated in that it is an excessive price considering their
terms of profitability. We should focus on the manmade manufacturing costs. Zaman also agreed that it was
fibre for doing value-added items, Zaman added. a high price, Spinners know that if factories import
from India, Vietnam or other countries they can’t do
Hatem observed that illogical duty and tax rates
shipment on time. Well off factories were importing
were impeding scopes of manmade fibre. He
yarns as they made contracts with buyers in advance.
clarified that there is 3 percent of VAT on cotton
yarn whereas it is 6 percent on manmade fibre. He Some of the spinners are furthering their investment
lamented that if the government could take timely now because of high profits in the last few months.
and necessary support for the industry we could They should be waiting for taking such an investment
do better. He also observed that there was no decision. This flow of profit may not continue in
justification for such tax imposition. He aggrieved future, Zaman remarked.
Bangladesh

Professional Development:
Industry should stimulate it
for themselves
TexTIMe Team
In the textile and apparel

industry, scopes of the
professional development seems
to be narrowed down day by
day. Reportedly, the textile
professionals do not receive
sufficient supports from the
professional bodies and from the
industry itself. There is an excuse
from the industry “people leave the
company after getting trained”.
We could not build a culture/

environment that can enhance
the scopes of professional
development with career Figure: (Clockwise) Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today; Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi
Khan, Pro-Vice-Chancellor of BUFT; Engr. Shafiqur Rahman, President, ITET and MD of
development. All the employees Hams Group.
never leave at once. The culture
once developed by the learning “Professional development is the global supply chain and use
all the employees never gets a continuous process and it is the full potential of technology.
lost by few people switching important for both employees With professional development, it
job. It creates a good flow and entrepreneurs to contribute is possible to work with innovation
of professionals within an to the industry. It increases both and technology. Also, financial
organization that ultimately help productivity and performance. benefits from human capitalization
mature the industry. Technology is changing 4IR have been unknown to many in
and IoT-based applications are recent years. Now it is a proven fact
When people enter into a now a matter of time. Without that investment for professional
particular industry and specialize professional development, employees development can be profitable that
in it, we address them as industry will not be able to keep pace with increase productivity.
professionals. These professionals technology,” said Prof. Khan.
are the key drivers who provide Engr. Rahman also said, “We,
innovative solutions for the He also said that foreign manufacturers consider two
industry. On June 22, 2021, Textile employees who are working in things in terms of professional
today organized the seventh Bangladesh remit about USD 5.0 development i.e. increasing
episode of TexTIMe, a webinar billion annually. If Bangladeshi productivity and cost-minimizing”.
titled 'Professional Development'. employees could keep up with the
Engr. Shafiqur Rahman, President, technology and have the same According to local newspapers,
ITET (Institution of Textile level of skills, no foreign workers about 1 million Bangladeshi
Engineers and Technologists) and would be needed. garment workers lost their jobs
Managing Director of Hams Group during COVID-19 last year. Some
and Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Engr. Rahman shared that Covid-19 workers even had to do double
Pro-Vice-Chancellor of BGMEA has disrupted global consumption, shifts. Tareq Amin asked him if
University of Fashion & Technology so manufacturers are now the manufacturers had laid-off
(BUFT) were the keynote speakers working on a global supply chain. workers or worked on professional
of the webinar where Tareq Amin, Lockdown changes social norms development to minimize the
Founder & CEO, Textile Today and makes technology reliable. So reduction in Covid-19. Engr.
moderated the webinar. it’s time to see some innovation in Rahman said, “In March 2020, all
Bangladesh

Engr. Shafiqur Rahman, President, ITET and MD of Hams Group. Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro-Vice-Chancellor of BUFT;
the workers and factories protected by the Prime being tried with the academy but the textile industry
Minister’s incentive”. should be more collaborated with the academies
to share the knowledge of latest technology
Wages were sent to workers directly from of the industry. BGMEA is already arranging a
government funds. The problems caused by the 3-month short course on merchandising, printing,
epidemic were at ease. Manufactures are still working manufacturing and other subjects by September.
on professional developments. But companies like ITET and IEB (Institution of
Engineers, Bangladesh) should come forward to
Replying to a question—if manufacturers work on
share industry knowledge.
professional development then why R&D still lacks
proper investment?--Engr. Rahman blamed the Moh’d Shahadat Hossain Shohag, Vice President of
buyers for the dominance of the RMG industry saying SPWA (Screen Print Welfare Association) one of the
“the RMG sector in Bangladesh is buyer oriented viewers of the webinar commented to Prof. Khan
that buyers even provide guidelines from product asked that if SPWA, ITET, IEB, and organization can
development to ETP. But some big manufacturers join together to work on professional development.
are breaking that culture. They are providing new Prof. Khan and Engr. Rahman both agreed on the
developments in product design. It takes time for proposal. But the real problem is - less employee
culture to break down and develop properly.” motivation. ITET organized many seminars,
workshops and trainings but the response was very
Professor Khan said that both textile students and
low. "Professional development is not a one-way
industry professionals can work together for a better
solution and more motivation should come from
future in the textile industry. Academic curricula in
employees also," said Engineer Rahman.
textile engineering have long been created. This has
caused a huge gap in the industry’s latest technology Textile graduates are trying to change their careers
and academic curriculum. “The Textile Academies and some are looking for government jobs rather than the
are already sitting down with the UGC, the IT textile sector. The younger generation is not motivated
department, and other governments to establish a enough to create their career in the textile sector.
proper guideline for the textile academic curriculum,”
added Professor Khan. Responding the question--What will be the reason?
-- Engineer Rahman said that the textile industry is
From that point of view, Tareq Amin asked Engineer now at the competitive stage. Salary to compliance,
Rahman how the postgraduates are performing there are many things that frustrate young people.
in the industry. If we still have to train fresh Also, there is no standard service rule for any private
graduates before the main job said Engr. Rahman. company in Bangladesh. Furthermore, it would be
Fresh graduates come with basic knowledge from unfair to make service rules only for the textile industry.
undergraduate academics. They still lack practical
knowledge and latest technology. The academy At the end of the session, Professor Khan said-
will always take time to change. The gap between -to motivate the fresh graduates and young
the latest technology and academic knowledge entrepreneurs-- “What our new graduates need is
in the industry will continue to grow. Professional hard work, honesty and dedication.”
development of graduates is the responsibility of both
the academy and the industry. “So what initiatives are Engr Rahman advised almost same way saying “The
ITET and the academy taking?” asked Tareq Amin. fresh graduates have to be dedicated and hardworking.
Honesty is also important for young entrepreneurs.
Professor Khan said that everything (like crash Otherwise, they can’t work with brands.”
courses, industry inspections, project showcasing) is
Bangladesh

Innovation Showcasing TTH-STB Projects
Creating interactive merged MRSL and

RSL to meet buyers’ requirements, while
producing recent fashion demand from
brands by AOP printing
Kazi Farhan Hossain Purba (Transformation Leader), Dept. of Textile Fashion and Design, BUTEX
Monirul Alam (Industry Expert), Executive Director (Printing), DYSIN-CHEM Ltd
Solaiman Bin Ali (Academic Supervisor), Lecturer, Dept. of WPE, Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX)
Abstract So, our concern of the project is to create such

an interactive tool that can help us to purchase
Due to the increasing awareness about meeting RSL chemicals boldly from the right suppliers with lesser
and MRSL, failure to declare safe products makes price, build trust and get repeated orders.
negative publicity for the brands. Today to comply
with customer demand, every responsible company or Along with the classic reactive, disperse and pigment
brand has its RSL and MRSL. This huge number of RSL printing, nowadays there is a recent fashion demand
and MRSLs create confusion and often works against for glitter, puff, foam, discharge and metallic printing
their purpose which results in RSL, MRSL test failure, in AOP (All Over Printing). Complying with the
wastage, increased costs and distrust from the buyers. MRSL, RSL for these types of AOP Printing is the
scope of our project.
Our project's concern is to make an interactive
merged RSL and MRSL tool where we can compare Though there are rules and regulations towards the
among the restricted limits of a certain chemical use of harmful chemicals in products, unfortunately,
according to selected brands and take the most these are still all around us for which we may
stringent limit as standard for AOP. Thus, our be exposed to a myriad of hormone disruptors,
confusion towards RSLs, MRSLs of myriads of brands neurotoxins, dermal sensitizers, asthmagens, or
will be diminished, data will be managed neatly and carcinogens. [2]
there will be an educated selection of raw materials.
The consumers’ awareness of health and the
Moreover, our study also shows that it is possible to environment has created urgency for the brands.
purchase cheaper but same quality chemicals from As a checklist of restricted chemicals, all the
second and third-tier suppliers where we can save concerned buyers use MRSL and RSL which stand for
costs from 15-25% and at the same time comply with Manufacturing Restricted Substances List, Restricted
the buyers in terms of MRSL, RSL. Substances List respectively.
So, by complying with RSL, MRSL to make our final These are created to indicate substances considered
products safe for human beings and the environment harmful or hazardous, which should ultimately not be
efficiently with this interactive tool along with found in any apparel item. MRSL targets all chemicals
a reduced cost, we can build our reputation as used in the manufacturing process of an apparel item
sustainable manufacturers, get more orders and and RSL considers only the chemicals that end up on
ultimately make more profit. the finished garment. [3]
Keywords:
Interactive merged MRSL, RSL, Unified MRSL, RSL,

Meeting MRSL, RSL in AOP Printing, Environmental
sustainability
Introduction
As there are a lot of MRSL, RSL versions available,

the sheer number of them create confusion and
often work against the purpose they are used. [1]
Failing to comply with the MRSL, RSL proposed by
a buyer results in a great loss of trust and money. Figure 1: Various versions of RSLs, MRSLs and their problems.
Photo courtesy: Author.
All projects are supported by- Implemented by

But today, each brand has RSL and MRSL of their process, raw materials & cost for achieving fashion
own which implies that there are a lot of lists that the effects with meeting RSL & MRSL.
suppliers and the manufacturers need to be aware of.
Project methodology
To solve this problem, Zero Discharge of Hazardous
Chemicals (ZDHC) has been working to harmonize
environmental standards across the global textile
and footwear value chain. According to them, one
of the issues they hear repeatedly is frustration from
all levels of the value-chain at the wide range of
standards – governmental, and brand initiated - and
lack of coherency between them. As a solution for
the industries, they came up with ZDHC MRSL. [4]
Figure 3: Steps of creating the Interactive merged MRSL, RSL.

Figure 2: Various versions of RSLs and their problems if not Photo courtesy: Author.
managed properly. Photo courtesy: Author.
Quantitative part:
There are also some attempts to unify RSLs of
different brands like AFIRM Group but still, there is a • At first, we collected the RSLs of the 12 most
trend of brand-initiated MRSLs and RSLs which need common brands that place AOP. The RSLs are from
to be managed. AFIRM, ALDI, American Eagle, Bluesign, G-Star
RAW, H&M, HUGO BOSS, IKEA, Levis Strauss & Co.,
Our project's concern is to make an interactive Marks and Spencer, OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100
merged RSL and MRSL tool where we can compare and PUMA. We did the same for MRSL. For that,
among the restricted limits of a certain chemical we collected the ALDI and Kaufland MRSL 2018.
according to selected brands and take the most
stringent limit as our standard RSL. The merged • As our scope is AOP Printing, we chose 8 types
RSL, MRSL will be easy, interactive and work like an of most common AOPs which are: 1. Pigment, 2.
application that will generate a comparison. Rubberized, 3. Reactive, 4. Metallic, 5. Foam/puff,
6. Disperse, 7. Glitter and 8. Discharge printing and
Thus, our confusion will be diminished, data will be collected their photos.
managed and there will be an educated selection of
raw materials according to the most stringent limits • We selected the most common restricted
suggested in our comparison. substances that are found in lab testing for each
type of AOP Printing. For example: in pigment
As the ECR (Environmental Chemical Responsible) printing products, the possibility to get heavy metals,
Department doesn’t always have the scope to azo and organic compounds is the most. Likewise,
analyze the needs like the application engineers’ we developed categories for each of the printings'
perspective, with our interactive MRSL, RSL tool, most found restricted substances in the tests.
the application engineers can also assist to take
prompt and bold decisions and can create options • After that, we studied each of the brand's RSL and
to purchase cheaper but same quality chemicals combined them into one within a certain chemical
from second and third-tier suppliers by mentioning group. For example: Heavy metal is a restricted
particular RSL/MRSL limits where we can save costs substance and brands have their restricted limit
from 10-25%. for each heavy metal. Eg. We took each brand's
restricted limit for Arsenic and input the numbers
Our scope is roll-to-roll AOP Printing chemical against each brand. We did likewise for every
selection. We will explore various AOP printings’ heavy metal. In the same way, we recorded data
raw materials listing and its RSL & MRSL parameters for all the other groups of restricted chemicals
and finally we will come to a result by describing the such as Organotin compounds, Azo compounds,

Group
Fardin Fashion Ltd

One Stop All-Over- Print & Fabrics Solution Provider
Fardin Fashion Ltd (FFL) - an

up-and-coming company in the textile
all-over printing industry - located in
Ashulia, Savar, Dhaka. We are well
equipped with all the latest technologies
- ROTARY, FLATBED, DIGITAL &
SUBLIMATION - for providing any kinds
of printing solutions. We are pioneers for
strong R&D; vibrant & vastly experienced
marketing team; world class customer
service and 24/7 design support to
deliver the design sample within just 8
hours. We have established ourselves as
an important partner for a number of
renowned brands across the globe.
Compliances:
O ZDHC
Zero Discharge of
Hazardous Chemicals
Head Office: House 18 (6th Floor), Road 13, M. +88 01815 376606
Sector 12, Uttara, Dhaka 1230 +88 01816 823765
Factory: Dosaid School & College Road, E. ceo@fardinfashionltd.com

Ashulia, Savar, Dhaka 1341 ceo.fardinfashionltd@gmail.com
www.fardinfashionltd.com
Formaldehydes, Phthalates,
Flame retardants, etc. We did
the same for MRSLs.
• For each substance group,

a Pivot Table in MS Excel is
made to compare among a
chemical’s selected brands’
restricted limits and show
the most stringent limit
with an interactive visual
representation.
• We did a cost analysis for Top Figure 4: The home page of the interactive merged MRSL, RSL tool.
standard, 2nd, 3rd standard

categories and each of them is hyperlinked to
and non-standard sources and found that we can
separate pages of their own.
save 15-25% cost still maintaining MRSL and RSL.
Clicking on any category like Pigment printing,
Qualitative Part:
takes the user to a separate page like the following
In the qualitative part, we arranged structured screenshot.
interviews and recorded them by note-taking. Each
interview time was at least 10 minutes.
The number of participants was 9 and their

occupations were Industry expert (Factory GM),
academicians, CEO, Chemical advisor and lab
assistants. They were chosen according to their job
interest and expertise in chemical management and
sustainability. They participated anonymously.
The Interview questions were:

Figure 5: Home page of Pigment Printing.
1. How important is it to maintain MRSL and RSL for
textile and garment factories? From Pigment printing’s home, we can choose any
of the groups like heavy metals, azo or organotin
2. Can our Interactive merged RSL and MRSL help us
compounds and go to a new designated page like
effectively to see a comparison among the brands'
the following:
RSLs that placed orders and make educated
decisions about the substances' limits?
A summarized reply to the first question: Maintaining

MRSLs and RSLs are extremely important to protect
the workers, consumers and the environment along
with ensuring the goodwill and profit of the business.
And for question number: 2, seven out of nine

participants replied positively. One participant suggested
that the solution lies in a government approach.
In our second interview, we have studied the Figure 6: Designated page for heavy metals. Here we can see
chemical suppliers by dividing them into 4 types: Top the comparisons.
standard, 2nd, 3rd and non-standard sources. We In this page, we can select the brands and the heavy
collected the prices from the chemical manufacturers metals which we want to know about and compare.
and made charts comparing the four types of In this case, we have chosen AFIRM, ALDI and
suppliers according to each type of printing and their Bluesign RSL for brand and Antimony, Arsenic and
raw materials. Cadmium for substance. As a result, we can get the
restricted limit for each brand and the most stringent
Key outcomes/result or discussion limit for each substance as a suggestion.
The interactive merged MRSL, RSL tool has a We have also seen in our project that it is possible
homepage that contains all the AOP Printing to source from the 2nd or 3rd standard sources

and save around 15-25% cost while complying with

Metallic Around Around US$3.50/
the requirements. We have studied the sources by
Paste US$6.00/ US$2.00/ kg to US$
dividing them into 4 types: Top standard, 2nd, 3rd
kg. kg. 4.50/kg.
and non-standard sources.
Metallic Around Around Around
We have interviewed the chemical manufacturers for Powder US$15.00/ US$8.00/ US$12.00/
the prices and made charts comparing with the four kg. kg. kg
types of suppliers according to each type of printing (Average) (Average) (Average)
and their raw materials. From an ethical standpoint, Fixer Around Less than US$ 16.00/
we are not mentioning any company’s name in this study. US$25.00/ US$8.00/ kg to US$
kg. kg. 20.00/kg.
The cost analysis we studied as per each printing
type and their raw materials is given below: Glitter Printing:
Pigment Printing: In Pigment printing, the main

Table 3: Price comparison among Top Standard,
raw materials are binder, pigment color and fixing
2nd, 3rd and non-standard sources for Glitter
agent. Binder from top standard source (guaranteed
Printing.
RSL, MRSL compliant raw materials) will cost over
Standard Non- 2nd or 3rd
US$ 1.60/kg. Whereas materials from non-standard
Source Standard Standard
sources (no guarantee of RSL, MRSL compliance) will
Source source
cost around US$ 0.80-0.90/kg, the cost difference
between these two sources is about 77-100%. Glitter Around Around US$ 4.50/
Paste US$6.00/ US$2.00/ kg to US$
Though profitable in terms of money, it is risky to kg. kg. 5.00/kg.
source from non-standard ones. The top sources are
Glitter Around Around Around
from European/Multinational Origin, the remaining
Powder US$12.00/ US$ US$10.00/
2nd& 3rd sources are of Asian origin whose price is
kg. 8.00/kg. kg
less than US$1.40/kg. If purchased from the 2nd or
(Average) (Average) (Average)
3rd standard source, we can save our cost from the
Fixer Around Less than US$ 16.00/
top standard source around 15-25% still maintaining
US$25.00/ US$8.00/ kg to US$
the MRSL, RSL.
kg. kg. 20.00/kg.
Rubberized Printing:
Foam or Ppuff:
2nd, 3rd and non-standard sources for
2nd, 3rd and non-standard sources for Foam or
Rubberized Printing.
Puff Printing.
Source source
Source source
Rubberized Around Less than US$2.50/
Foam Paste Around Less than US$ 6.00/
Printing US$5.00/ US$2.00/ kg to US$
US$10.00/ US$6.00/ kg to US$
Agents kg. kg. 4.00/kg.
kg. kg. 8.00/kg.
Pigment Around Around Around
Color US$10.00/ US$4.50/ US$8.00/
Colour US$10.00/ US$4.50/ US$8.00/
kg. kg. kg
kg. kg. kg
US$25.00/ US$8.00/ kg to US$
US$25.00/ US$8.00/ kg to US$
kg. kg. 20.00/kg.
kg. kg. 20.00/kg.
Metallic printing:
Table 2: Price comparison among top Standard,

2nd, 3rd and non-standard sources for Metallic
Printing.
Source source

Reactive printing: Conclusion and further works
Table 5: Price comparison among Top Standard, In our project, we have seen that our interactive
2nd, 3rd and non-standard sources for Reactive merged RSL and MRSL crafted for AOP printing
Printing. products can help the manufacturers to comply with
the restricted substances lists of brands to ensure their
trust and to help to push the industry away from get-
ting confused with too many chemical standards.
Source source
Reactive US$8.00/ US$4.00/ US$ Because of choosing a chemical’s most stringent lim-
Dyes kg. kg. 5.00/kg. it from our interactive list, we can automatically com-
(Average) (Average) (Average) ply with the other brands keeping the cost in mind.
Sodium Around Around Around We can also buy chemicals confidently from the
Alginate US$4.50/ US$3.00/ US$ 4.00/ second or third-tier suppliers by asking and ensuring
kg. kg. kg proper restricted limits using the data derived from
our interactive list and reduce the cost to 15-25%.
Synthetic Around Around Around
Gum US$4.00/ US$ 2.75/ US$ 3.50/ Thus, we can protect the workforce, the environ-
kg. kg. kg ment and the consumers while ensuring our profits.
Further studies can explore the possibilities of a
Disperse printing:
merged MRSL and RSL for other processes like dyed,
washed, or other products and integrated supplier
Table 6: Price comparison among Standard,
information. We can also include lesser-known MRSL,
2nd, 3rd and non-standard sources for Disperse
RSLs in our interactive tool.
Printing.
Standard Non- 2nd or 3rd As a whole, we can avoid the duplication of efforts
Source Standard Standard to achieve the same results by using our interactive
Source source merged MRSL and RSL tools because the goal is
Disperse US$12.00/ US$6.00/ US$ common- to protect the workers, the consumers and
Dyes kg. kg. 8.00/kg. the environment along with ensuring our long-term
(Average) (Average) (Average) business profit.
Synthetic Around Around Around Acknowledgment

Gum US$4.50/ US$3.00/ US$ 4.00/
kg. kg. kg This paper and the project would not have been pos-
sible without the exceptional support of my industry
Discharge Printing: expert, Monirul Alam, Executive Director (Printing),
DysinChem Ltd. I express my gratitude to Moksudul
Table 7: Price comparison among Standard, 2nd, Alam, Senior Manager (Marketing), Md. Rafizul Hoque,
3rd and non-standard sources for Discharge Marketing Officer (Printing) from the same company.
Printing.
Standard Non- 2nd or 3rd My heartfelt gratitude goes to my academic su-
Source Standard Standard pervisor Solaiman Bin Ali, Lecturer, Department of
Source source Wet Process Engineering, Bangladesh University of
Textiles (BUTEX) for his inspiration in choosing my
Discharge Around Less than US$2.50/
project related to printing and chemicals. I would
Paste US$ 3.50/ US$2.50/ kg to US$
like to express my gratitude to Mohammad Omar
kg. kg. 3.00/kg.
Faruq, Senior Advisor- Chemical and Environmental
Gum Around Less than US$ 4.00/ Management System (EMS) at Deutsche Gesellschaft
US$4.50/ US$3.00/ kg für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH for
kg. kg. answering my queries when I got stuck.
Color US$10.00/ US$4.50/ US$8.00/ I strongly acknowledge Dysin-Chem Limited for their
kg. kg. kg utmost support through giving laboratory facilities
(Average) (Average) (Average) and funding the research. I am also thankful to all the
members of Textile Today including my project coor-
Binder Around Around Around
dinator Sanjoy Saha, Manager, Industry Engagement
US$4.00/ US$2.00/ US$2.50/
& Sub-Editor, Textile Today for his constant inspira-
kg. kg. kg
tion and push towards excellence.

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Finding out an effective

process to reduce re-dyeing
for micro polyester yarn
Muhammad Zahidul Islam Sojol (Transformation Leader), Dept of WPE, Shyamoli Textile Engineering College
Md. Salauddin Sk (Industry Expert), Technical Manager-ARL, Harris & Menuk Chemicals (BD) Ltd.
Maitry Bhattacharjee (Academic Supervisor), Head, Dept. of Textile, Shyamoli Textile Engineering College
Mizanur Rahman (Industry Supervisor), AGM (Yarn Dying), Southwest Composite Ltd.
Abstract: micro polyester and its dyeing Problem Statement:

material.
The tendency of micro polyester The usual process of Micro
fibers not to form a bond with So many mistakes are made due polyester yarn dyeing and
the dye and the tendency of the to a lack of knowledge in this some characteristics of micro-
micro polyester is to attach to the regard. The most important of polyester yarn such excessive
dye at high temperature which these errors are die selection, strike absorbing of dye creates
is somewhat more critical than auxiliary chemical selection, die shade variation and some others
that of other fibers. One of the bath preparation, pH controlling, deformity like whiteness in the
problems with micro polyester lab and bulk liqueur ratio variation, shade which tends the whole
fiber or yarn dyeing is the shade heat setting problem, incorrect batch to re-dyeing process.
variation of lab to bulk. As a result pipetting, incorrect sample info,
it needs to re-dye which increases and many more. There are some more issues like
the production cost. Important miss-collaboration between people
parameters of micro polyester As a result, large shade variations of lab and bulk. There are some
dyeing are temperature, liquor can be seen in lab and bulk technical issues like lack of proper
ratio, die size etc. At present, samples. That is why it needs to controlling the measurements of
in the process of dyeing micro dye more than once. It results PH level or water level and such
polyesters in factories, some of in production cost increases, other things on the factory which
the basic parameters have been product quality deteriorates, shows huge deformity on the final
changed and the traditional SOP time is wasted. In this project, a dyed products and which tends
has been compared with the new process has been recommended the whole batch to re-dyeing
SOP. As a result, several changes for keeping these problems in process.
have been noticed. The amount of mind so that better results can be
obtained than before. Less need of Comparison with normal polyester,
die take up has been found to be
re-dyeing later than before. micro-polyester needs more
higher than before.
amount of dye due to its largest
Introduction: This project is proposing a simple surface than normal polyester.
solution in which we will dye the So, when it requires reprocessing
Production of micro polyester or yarn with some low or medium the dying it becomes much more
ultra-fine polyester has started energy disperse dye after that we costly to the manufacturers. It's
since about 1950. Usually Melt will treat the yarn with a Reduction also more time flopping. So it
blown spinning and Flash spinning cleaning process one or two times. becomes a countable issue to
techniques are used to make finer As a result, it will show possible- think about. By solving or reducing
fibers than 0.7 denier. The fineness less uneven shade and good this re-dying rate or increasing
of micro-polyester yarn is 0.25-1.0 fastness properties. So, re-dyeing the RFT% manufacturer can
denier. So, its surface area is more will not be needed. And it will save produce dyed micro-polyester
than ordinary polyester. And since almost 40% cost which generally yarn with less wastage of dye, less
polyester does not form any bond becomes wasted for re-dyeing production cost, and less damaged
with the dye like other fibers. Dye purposes. It also will save energy, yarn because reprocessing creates
and fiber are only attached. So, it time, and manpower. Re-dyeing other damages to the yarn.
is difficult to level dye. Also, the decreases the yarn quality which
workers who work in dyeing in the also will be improved. As a result, it increases 50% cost
factory do not know much about due to the extra required amount

of Dye, Acid, Dispersing Agent and and auxiliaries used were collected Hydros-4g/L
it takes 3/4 times extra time to from the dyes and chemicals store Time: 20min
get the desired shade. So it is high of Harris & Menuk (BD) Ltd. Temperature:70°C
time to make a transformation.
For lab dyeing, the sample weight Neutralization:
Pre- cautions or monitoring was 2grams Acetic acid- 0.5g/L
aspects: Time: 10min
For bulk dyeing, the sample weight
Better dye house water quality was 3.18kg For Recommended Process:
was ensured for the dyeing of
goods by testing water hardness, Development of the Lab Dip: Dyeing:
pH etc. in the lab before starting M:L= 1:10
A color standard was selected Pre-treatment:
the whole process. The strength
for the development of lab dip. A Detergent – 1g/L
and purity of the reagents were
recipe was created, and different Time:20min
checked before using for bulk
small amount (2g) were dyed Temperature:70°C
production.
with the relevant recipe. The dyed
Lab dip written information was samples (4 samples i.e. A, B, C, D) Dyeing:
double checked with order sheets. were submitted to expert for lab Buffer- 1g/L
Dyes, yarn were also double dip approval. The expert approved Anti-foaming-1g/L
checked to ensure expire date, the closest sample (A) for the bulk Wetting agent-1g/L
strength, desired color which is dyeing production. Levelling agent-2g/L
updated or required for dyeing, Time:60min
The shade% of three colors of Temperature: 135°C
during lab dip development:
different sample was-
pre-treatment procedure, dyeing
Reduction Cleaning:
procedure, after-treatment 1. Low energy Dye: Caustic- 2g/L
procedure & parameters were
Hydros- 2g/L
checked perfectly such as Name Shade%
Time: 20min
calculation. Forasil ACE Red 1.4
Temperature: 70°C
Forasil ACE Yellow 1.8
The yarn, dyes and chemicals Neutralization:
Forasil ACE Blue 0.23
used for lab dip must be same Acetic acid- 1.5g/L
for the bulk dyeing process. For 2. High energy Dye: Time: 20min
the bulk dyeing same substrate Temperature: 60°C
(yarn) and the same reagents were Name Shade%
Forasil D/Red SWF 1 Dyeing procedure:
ensured that was used for lab dip
development. Because materials Forasil Yellow 4GNLS 0.75
First, certain amount yarn/
difference is not acceptable for Forasil N/Blue HXF 0.09
filaments are taken then it rinses
getting desired result to the with water properly. Then it is
The lab recipe of the lab dip along
bulk production. Each operation pre-treated with certain amount
with the sample was preserved for
involved from lab dip development (2g/L) non-ionic detergent for
reference.
to bulk dyeing followed with great 20min at 70°C. Then the yarn or
care for achieving RFT. Recipe: filaments are rinsed with fresh
water. After completing the pre-
Experimental: For Conventional process: treatment required amount Buffer,
Experiments was performed in two Anti-foaming, Wetting Agent,
Dyeing:
methods- levelling agent are given to the
M:L= 1:10
vessel throughout dossing then
Pre-treatment:
1. Conventional or Running the machine is run for 10-15 min
Rinse with fresh water
method. then Ph of the vessel is checked.
Dyeing: pH should be between 3.5 to 4.5.
2. Recommended method.
Buffer- 0.5 g/L
After confirming the pH range
Materials: Levelling agent-2g/L
required amount dyes are given to
Acetic acid- 0.5g/L
the vessel throughout dossing for
100D Filament, disperse dyes Time:40min
30min. after completing the dyes
were collected from the dyes Temperature:130°C
dossing, the machine temperature
and chemical store of Southwest
Reduction cleaning: is increased 1.5°C per minute till
Composite Ltd, Chandra,
Caustic-2g/L 70°C then 1°C per minute till 135
Bangladesh and dyeing chemicals

then the machine is run for 60min 4. Colour difference of Sample-04 Colour fastness to rubbing (ISO
at 135°C to complete the dyeing was 3.12 for D65 10 deg. and 3.08 105 X12): Grading has been done
process. for F11 10 and metamerism index according to grey scale for staining
is 1.25.
After completing the dyeing Colour fastness to Perspiration
process machine temperature is Among all the data of four (Alkali, ISO 105 E04): Grading has
decrease 1.5°C per minute till 50°C different sample, Sample-04 which been done according to grey scale
or room temperature. Then yarn/ means “Recommended process for colour change & staining.
filaments are rinsed with water with high energy dye” is showing
Colour fastness to Perspiration
after that it is treated with caustic the lower color difference than
(Acid, ISO 105 E04): Grading has
(2g/L) and Hydrose (2g/L) for others.
been done according to grey scale
20min at 70°C to complete the
for colour change & staining.
reduction cleaning. Then it rinses Colour fastness to Wash (ISO 105
with water and then it neutralizes C06 (C1S)): Grading has been Colour Fastness to Artificial light:
with acetic acid for 20min at 60°C done according to grey scale for Xenon arc fading lamp test (ISO 105
then rinses with water then send colour change & staining. B02:2014): Grading has been done
to drying section. according to reference blue wool.
Graphical Representation of
Table: 01 Colour fastness to wash
Recommended Process:
Sl Staining
Sample Name CH
Result & Discussion: No Wool Acrylic Poly Nylon Cotton DA
1 Low + 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 4-5 4
On this project four experiments
Conventional
have performed on four different
aspects which are- 2. Low + 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
Recommended
Sample-1: Conventional process
with Low energy dye Table: 02 Colour fastness to rubbing
Sample-2: Conventional process Sl. No Sample Name Grade

with high-energy dye Dry Wet
1. Low + Conventional 4-5 4-5
Sample-3: Recommended process
with low energy dye 2. Low + Recommended 4-5 4-5
Sample-4: Recommended process Table: 03 Colour fastness to perspiration (Alkali)

with high energy dye
Sl Staining
Sample Name CH
Spectrophotometric Evaluation: No Wool Acrylic Poly Nylon Cotton DA
1 Low + 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
All samples were measured by
Conventional
using (Datacolor 650™) under the
light source of F11/10 Degree & 2. Low + 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
D65 10 Degree. Recommended
1. Colour difference of Sample-01 Table: 04 Colour fastness to perspiration (Acid)

was 3.25 for D65 10 deg. and 3.15 Staining
Sl
for F11 10 and metamerism index Sample Name CH
No Wool Acrylic Poly Nylon Cotton DA
is 0.48.
1 Low + 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
2. Colour difference of Sample-02 Conventional
was 4.89 for D65 10 deg. and 5.12 2. Low + 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
for F11 10 and metamerism index Recommended
is 0.39.
Table 05 Colour fastness to artificial light
3. Colour difference of Sample-03
was 5.17 for D65 10 deg. and 4.90 Sample Name Grading
for F11 10 and metamerism index Low + Conventional 6
is 0.67. Low + Recommended 6

1. Wetting agent
2. Levelling agent
3. Anti-foaming
4. B u ff e r
5. Hydros
6. Caustic
7. Acetic acid
(pH 3.5-4.5)
135° C / 60 min
in
/m
1°
20 min / 70° C 70° C 70° C / 20 min
C
C
/m
1 2 34 56 7
1°
pH check
in
in
60° C / 20 min
/m
Dye Dossing 30 min
in
2° C
/m
°C
Detergent
in
/m
/m
1.5
2° C
35° C 50° C
in
2° C
( P r e - t r e a t m e n t ) 35° C (Dyeing) 35° C (Reduction Cleaning) (Neutralization)
Figure: Dyeing curve of recommended process.
Result Discussion methodically: but a challenge for smooth production with quality
products without waste of money & time.
By analysis the experiments data, it can be said
that the color fastness on Wash, Acid, Alkali, and So many points needed to be checked and
Perspiration all the samples are quite good. However, ensured for the right production with right quality.
in all the samples in CMC Data color test, the color Accordingly, dye house water quality needs to be
difference of Sample-4. I.e. the sample dyed in the ensured for dyeing goods by testing water hardness,
recommended process with High Energy Dye is the pH etc.
lowest.
Acknowledgement:
Therefore, it can be said that if micro-polyester is
First and foremost, praises and thanks to the
dyed in the recommended process of this project
God, the Almighty, for His showers of blessings
with high-energy dye, then better results will come.
throughout my project work to complete the project
However, several more improvements are needed to
successfully.
obtain RFT.
I would like to express my deep and sincere gratitude
The result implies that factory will get better result
to my academic supervisor Maitry Bhattacharjee,
than other process if micro polyester yarn is dyed
Departmental head, Shyamoli Textile Engineering
by recommended process of this project with high-
College, helped me by providing the information
energy dye.
of academical topic about my project. As Industry
From the above discussions we can easily find out expert Md. Salauddin Sk Technical, Manager-ARL,
that the limitation to get the RFT dyeing is the Harris & Menuk Chemicals(BD) Ltd helped me in
manual measurement of dyes and chemicals. If we finding it's root cause and it's solution in this project.
can minimize this problem, then we can get the Right
To sum up my whole project and to do various
First Time dyeing. For increasing RFT efficiency this
experiments in industry I got initial help from Mizanur
problem should be minimized.
Rahman, AGM(yarn dying), Southwest composite Ltd
Conclusion: as my industry supervisor.
In conclusion it can be said that It is possible to I would like to cordially thanks Textile Today and
bring RFT through regular practice and good Peoples Team for giving me this platform and taking
knowledge about all aspects of dyeing product and the initiative to fulfil my vision and helping the new
its application. RFT comprises great importance for generation to restrict the upcoming damage of our
quality production within delivery time. It is not RFT environment as well as on our economy.
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Impact of COVID-19 in AOP
and ways to overcome
Staff Correspondent
The journey of the all-over

printing (AOP) industry started
in Bangladesh in 1980. However,
the global pandemic since 2019
has complicated everything.
Lockdowns, economic crises,
layoffs, and order cancellations
have disrupted the entire industry
supply chain.
Recently, AOPTB (All-Over

Printing Technologists of
Bangladesh) arranged a webinar
to discuss the crisis in all over
printing industry "Impact of
COVID-19 in All Over Printing
Sector and ways to overcome.” Figure (L-R): Pranab Kumar Dutta; Eng. Shyamal Chandra Saha; MD Abul Basar;
Tareq Amin; S.M. Abdur Rahman; and Sayedur Rahman.
Where Pranab Kumar Dutta,

However, due to the lockdown, behavior in the AOP industry.
Head of Technical Service at
the overall printing industry faced Tareq Amin said," AOP industry
Clarichem Limited; Eng. Shyamal
extremely harsh conditions. As the will always continue to grow as it
Chandra Saha, BTech (Tex) IIT,
main peak season of the domestic has become a global fashion trend.
Delhi. Advisor at Johny Group;
market depends on holidays and As fast fashion is now a global
Sayedur Rahman, General Manager
other events like Eid-ul-Fitr, Eid-ul- trend, fashion customers are more
(operation) of Unifill Group;
Adha, Boishak, Durga Puja, etc. and more focusing on trendy
Tareq Amin, Founder and CEO of
printable fashion."
Textile Today; MD Abul Basar, Vice Sayedur highlighted the COVID-19
President, AOPTB Group, DGM challenges faced by the export- A solution right now instead of
Production & Marketing, Sawftex oriented industry. He said, lockdown is a vaccine to fight
Ltd were the keynote speakers of “COVID-19 has dramatically COVID-19. The government has
the webinar and Engr. S.M. Abdur increased the price of raw counted only health care officials
Rahman, President of AOPTB materials which further ballooning and other sectors as the first
moderated the webinar. the cost of production.” to vaccinate. Leaving out the
garment sector.
S.M. Abdur started the session by In addition, the Chattogram port
asking Pranab Kumar about the container jam increased average S.M. Abdur on the behalf of AOPTB
impact of COVID-19 on the AOP shipment lead-time by 15-30 days. has demanded the government
industry. The pandemic has led to officials vaccinate the garment
order cancellations, lockdowns, Abul Basar said, "Raw material workers on a priority basis.
and stopped multiple export prices should be reduced and the
shipments. government should reduce import duty Tareq Amin suggested that
and shipping costs and the bank should organizations like BGMEA, BKMEA,
Pranab Kumar said, "Since export be more lenient about loans now." and BTMA should work on long-
turbulence hit us, some big factories term sustainable policy guidelines to
focused on the domestic market.” S.M. Abdur asked Tareq Amin reduce the impact of the pandemic.
about changing consumer
An Innovation Hub

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gets Textile Today services in privileged scheme. All key services namely- exclusive promotion on
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Corporate Member
Rose Sweaters Ltd. : Established in June, 2000

Factory: Vogra, By-pass Road, Bishaw Road, Joydebpur, Gazipur, Bangladesh.
Head office: Flat # 8, House # 531, Lane # 11, DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka-1206
Product Ranges: Pullover, Sweater, Cardigan
Production Capacity: 1 million Pcs/Month, Piece Dye: 10 Ton/day
Total employee: 6,700 persons
Major Certifications: Amfori BSCI, OEKO-TEX, OCS, DETOX, SMETA, ICS,
WCA, SCS, ACCORD, ALLAINCE, FCCA, TTFMS, GMP, ISO 9001:2015
Major Buyers:
FRANCE: La Halle (HAV), Camaieu, Okaidi, Tapealoeil. Vert baudet
GERMANY: Obermeyer, S’oliver, Mustang, Eurospin
ITALY: Pizza Italia
UK: M&S, Tesco, Sainsbury, Monsoon, Dunnes, George, Bonmarche, EWM
AUSTRALIA: Glassons
RUSSIA: O’stin
USA: PVH (Arrow, IZOD, VH), GIII (CK, Tommy Hilfiger, DKNY)
Best Practices: CSR Activities:

• DETOX certified ETP • 24/7 medical facility
• Sustainable raw materials • Child care center
• Lenzing Ecovera Viscose Yarn • Work with ‘HER’ project (Health
• Organic Cotton Yarn enables returns by BSR, USA)
• BCI Cotton project through LF
• CMiA Cotton • Work with ‘Save the children’
• CIC Cotton • Employment for physically disable
• Recycled Polyester people
• Recycled Acrylic • Pre-schooling program for children
• Solar Panel • Educational scholarship Probir Kumar Saha
• Regular Tree Plantation Program • Annual picnic for all employees at
• Biomass Energy Plants “Bangla New Year Chairman
• Reverse Osmosis Rose Sweaters Ltd.
• Cool Trans-Print etc.
Phone: +88 02 8415816, 8410096

Email: info@rosesweater.com
Web: http://www.rosesweater.com/
An Innovation Hub

OVS, H&M and 80% of textile waste
Timberland ranked top ends up in landfill
transparency index Imran Hossain
According to a report by the Australian Circular

Akik Ahemd
Textile Association (ACTA) of the NSW Environmental
The index, Protection Authority, about 305,000 tons of textiles
OVS topped index dumped in New South Wales (NSW) in Australia last
compiled by
scoring with 78% year, of which only 800 tones were recycled.
sustainable
fashion H&M Group scored 68% About 240,000 tons sent to landfills, with the remaining
campaign
62,000 tons sent overseas by charities for reuse.
group Fashion Timberland scored 69%
Revolution, ACTA used the data to estimate that nearly a million
scored 250 The North Face scored 69% tons of textiles were being consumed in Australia
of the world’s each year, and that was probably being under-reported.
largest fashion C&A scored 65%
businesses.
Vans scored 65% 305,000 tons of Only 800 tons
Italian clothing textiles dumped are recycled
retailer OVS topped the index scoring 78% of a
possible 250 points, an increase of 44% compared to
2020. This year, it disclosed some of its raw materials 62,000 tons sent 240000 tons
suppliers for the first time, and was one of only two overseas by charities for reuse sent to landfills
brands, alongside Patagonia, to publish data on the
number of workers in the supply chain that had been
paid a living wage.
Nike, Zara and Topshop: World’s
H&M Group came in second scoring 68%, then top resold fashion brands
Timberland and The North Face, which both scored
69%. European fast-fashion retailers C&A and Vans S N Abdullah
both achieved 65%.
Recent resale
listings by like
Depop and eBay
1160153
Tuberculosis screening show that Nike,
program at Ananta Group

Zara and Topshop
are the world’s 1033809
most resold
S N Abdullah
997179
fashion brands.
A tuberculosis SaveOnEnergy,
screening program was in the newly- Figure: Nike, Zara, Topshop’s total
carried out at one of resell listings.
released “Most
the factories of Ananta Resold Fashion
Companies named Brands” report, analyzed millions of fashion listings
ABM Fashions Ltd. This and found that resale sites such as Depop, eBay,
program aimed to find Figure: A tuberculosis screening ASOS Marketplace, Etsy, and Vestiaire Collective – to
out the TB patients program was carried out at discover which brand names were the most listed
among workers and one of the factories of Ananta
Companies named ABM Fashions and, therefore, the most resold.
give them treatment Ltd. Courtesy: Ananta Group
to be cured since they It found that Nike was by far the most resold brand
hardly get a chance to be tested for tuberculosis. in the world, with a staggering 1.16 million listings in
total.
The BGMEA is jointly working with the national TB
control program of the Ministry of Health & Family Followed by Zara, Topshop, ASOS’ brand, and adidas,
Welfare, and BRAC to eliminate TB from the garment which rounded out the top five.
sector.
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Unveiling industry best practices

after shifting from

Apparel accessories & fashion

ECO white with

Ecological aspects by using of TISSOCYL COD:

Once in a while • ERC

speak for us... V •R

24050 Grassobbio (BG)

Boost up Knit Pre Treatment &

Editor & Publisher

Published on 28th July 2021 by

The views expressed in the magazine

after shifting from

ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf

GmbH & Co. KG is a well known

See at page 35 See at page 21 See at page 17

ECO white with

July’ 21 | Volume 14 | Issue 07

12 Editorial 24-25 News and Analysis 32-33 Opinion

Deepening economic cooperation

16-18 Top Story Textile World

Framing to face challenges

Buyer’s confidence about our overall

Apparel Today Spinning Today TexTIMe

45-47 Opinion 63-65 Fiber Today 81-84 TexTIMe

Bangladesh's fabric supplying trend Global demand

Manmade fiber: a potential

68-69 Cotton Today

55 Technology 70-72 Fiber Today Creating competitive

56-58 Q&A – The perfect match for

FY21: Hot off the press

12 Bangladesh Textile Today | July 2021

Bangladesh’s T&A industry has

Each principle has a set of parameters with different

14 Bangladesh Textile Today | July 2021

Top 10 rated factories of Bangladesh T&A industry

$1.2 bn The better quality of the

$149.5 mn brightens the work spirit and boosts

mn It has made remarkable progress

Bangladesh Textile Today | July 2021 15

FDI declines though

Though Bangladesh received 11%

16 Bangladesh Textile Today | July 2021

Jute and jute goods export earnings reached $1bn

18 Bangladesh Textile Today | July 2021

Korean Export Processing Zone (KEPZ) – the first

Youngone Corporation (owner of the KEPZ), is one

Bangladesh Textile Today | July 2021 19

Figure 4: KEPZ invested a great deal in improving the environment

from the Department of Environment (DoE) in

When fully completed, it would be one of the largest

Youngone set up the KEPZ under the Bangladesh

After getting 2492 acres of barren land from the govt.,

20 Bangladesh Textile Today | July 2021

DEEP DIVE 2.0

-18% -31% -34% -17% -33%

The Archroma Way:

Korean EPZ started implementing a 40 MW rooftop Additional 20MW system – to be set up as an

Most notably, Youngone has – in KEPZ – 25000

“Our goal is to make ‘Made in Bangladesh’ the number

22 Bangladesh Textile Today | July 2021

the plan has got its traction and

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