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Accelerated Stability Comparative Shelf Life Prediction For Cosmetic Products 1 Introduction 2 Technology 3 Cosmetic o W Emulsion 4
Accelerated Stability Comparative Shelf Life Prediction For Cosmetic Products 1 Introduction 2 Technology 3 Cosmetic o W Emulsion 4
1. Introduction
2. Technology
3. Cosmetic o/w-emulsion
4. Conclusion
1
© 2015 LUM GmbH
ISO/TR 13097:2013 Guidelines for the
characterization of dispersion stability
Table of contents
Foreword http://www.iso.org/iso
Introduction /home/store/catalogu
1 Scope e_tc/catalogue_detail.
2 Terms and definitions
3 Basics of stability
htm?csnumber=52802
3.1 Stability — Summary
3.2 Characteristic features with regard to dispersion stability
3.3 Alteration of the state of a dispersion
4 Characterizing the change of the state of a dispersion
4.1 General comments
4.2 Direct methods
4.3 Correlative methods
4.4 Procedures to accelerate the evaluation of long-term stability
5 Prediction of the shelf life of a dispersion
5.1 General comments
5.2 Comparative analysis
5.3 Predictive analysis
Annex A A compilation of relevant international and national standards
Bibliography
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 2
© 2015 LUM GmbH
ISO/TR 13097: 5. Prediction of shelf life
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 3
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Why measure cosmetic products accelerated?
Typical shelf life for example:
Shampoo / Conditioner 2-3 years
http://organizeyourlife.org/expiration.htm (22.6.2012)
G = Gravity driven
D = Diffusion driven
Ostwald ripening D
Phase Inversion D
Coalescence D [G]
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 5
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Accelerated stability, comparative
shelf life prediction for cosmetic
products
Dr. Arnold Uhl, Dr. Titus Sobisch, LUM GmbH, Berlin, GERMANY
in-cosmetics 2015
1. Introduction
2. Technology
6
© 2015 LUM GmbH
STEP-Technology®:
Space and Time resolved Extinction Profiles
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 7
© 2015 LUM GmbH
STEP-Technology® in LUMiFuge® / LUMiSizer®
Physical acceleration
from 6 x to 2300 x Light
Sample
Acceleration by Sensor
temperature 4°C to 60°C.
Multi-wavelength.
Transmission
Multisample analysis
(up to 12 simultaneously). kinetics
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 8
© 2015 LUM GmbH
STEP-Technology® in LUMiFuge® / LUMiSizer®
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 9
© 2015 LUM GmbH
How can we use STEP-Technology®?
Stokes‘ Law:
v= 2 ∆ρ . r2. f(α) . xg
9 η
v – Particle velocity
ρ – Density
η – dyn. Viscosity of cont. phase
r2 – Particle size
α – Particle concentration
xg – „real-time or accelerated“ -Physical acceleration
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 10
© 2015 LUM GmbH
How can we use STEP-Technology®?
d
Stokes‘ Law:
I
v= 2 ∆ρ . r2
. f(α) . xg
9 η Lambert-Beer‘s Law:
I
v – Particle velocity - ln =E=ε.α.d
IO
ρ – Density ε = f (λ, r, n, ...)
η – dyn. Viscosity of cont. phase I0 – Light factor | light intensity
r2 – Particle size ε – Extinction coefficient
α – Particle concentration d – optical path length (cell thickness)
xg – „real-time or accelerated“ NIR, blue & further wavelength)
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 11
© 2015 LUM GmbH
What can we determine?
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 12
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Analysis results for QC/QA and R&D
1. Introduction
2. Technology
3. Cosmetic o/w-emulsion
14
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Cosmetic emulsion (o/w type)
• Applied SOP for discussed and further unknown samples. Controlled stop
after 1 hour. Effective analysis time 5 min (future measurement time
at 50°C).
• Acceleration by temperature 50°C – identical to one of customer‘s real-
time storage temperatures.
• 4000 rpm equivalent to 2300 times higher gravity at position of 130 mm
(reference = cell bottom).
• Detection by NIR at 865 nm ideal for turbid or coloured samples.
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 15
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Cosmetic emulsion (o/w type) after separation
A B
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 16
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Cosmetic emulsion (o/w type) – 3 min
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 17
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Cosmetic emulsion (o/w type) – 5 min
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 18
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Cosmetic emulsion (o/w type) – 10 min
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 19
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Cosmetic emulsion (o/w type) – 64 min
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 20
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Instability index* after 250 s
*Tracing the movement of the interface clear water phase/ emulsion at a transmission of 11 %
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 22
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Comparative Shelf Life Prediction A vs. B
Qualitative result:
Transmission profiles of A change before those of B, A shows a
faster separation. Separation type identical.
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 23
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Accelerated stability, comparative
shelf life prediction for cosmetic
products
Dr. Arnold Uhl, Dr. Titus Sobisch, LUM GmbH, Berlin, GERMANY
in-cosmetics 2015
1. Introduction
2. Technology
3. Cosmetic o/w-emulsion
4. Conclusion
24
© 2015 LUM GmbH
CONCLUSION
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 25
© 2015 LUM GmbH
From Particle Characterization…
MICROPARTICLES NANOPARTICLES
Multi-wavelength Multi-wavelength
Separation Analyser LUMiReader®PSA Dispersion Analyser LUMiSizer®
2. After Shave Balms, Creams, Leather Gels, Make up, Nail Varnish,
Shampoo, Softener, Sun Care, Tooth Paste…
Separation Analyser
LUMiReader® X-ray
ISO/TR 13097
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 28
© 2015 LUM GmbH
More information:
The formulation of a distinctive skin care product
R. Moyon, K. Golz, L. Zastrow, SFÖW Journal 4-2007.
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 29
© 2015 LUM GmbH
Thank you for your
attention.
and ...
Accelerated stability, comparative shelf life prediction for cosmetic products, in-cosmetics 2015 www.lum-gmbh.com 30
© 2015 LUM GmbH