Australian Bartender - March 2021

A U S T R A L I A N
Sailor
The Voice of Bar Professionals
Jerry
110
years
and #241
still
THE POWER PLUS:

OF YEAST INSTA-TENDERS NARE N YO U N G
Sam Egerton talks BEWARE! O N WHY DANTE
about keeping this @howdoidrinkthis on WO N AWARDS
B U RROW BAR ’ S
organism happy escaping ridicule on ‘ M O RE S I LK
for the brew their hit Insta page THAN SATU RN ’
S E E W H AT
‘ B E T T E R ’ R E A L LY
MEANS TO US
C RA F T E D FO R B E T T E R
A single statement that is the epitome of everything we believe in around quality hand-crafted
spirits, sustainable production & mindfully gathered Australian botanicals.
Packed full of Australian botanicals like Lemon Myrtle & Blood Lime, 78˚ Better Gin is an annual vintage
gin made in collaboration with the winner of our Purveyor of Better initiative. In the spirit of better, a
portion of sales from the 78˚ Better Gin are donated to support local communities & charities.
CONTACT YOUR SOUTHTRADE INTERNATIONAL REP FOR MORE INFO

Please Drink Responsibly.
p4
#241
Ingredients.
p6.
Welcome.
The Long Pour. Back Bar.

p20.
Feature: p50.
The Rail. Vodka Renaissance by Jenna Hemsworth

p28.
The Spritz:
Feature:
@howdoidrinkthis
p52.
p8. The summer essential Introducing:
The Sicilian Margarita from the Dolphin Hotel p32. Jacob North from Burrow Bar
p9. How To: p54.
Headlines & Stuff: Burrow Bar’s More Silk than Saturn Manager Profile:
what’s happening — and what’s drinking p.36. Adam Lau, Grain Bar Sydney
— in the bar world Brew: p56.
p15. Sam Egerton talks yeast Profile:
Open: p40. Cloakroom Melbourne
New bar openings from around the country Opinion: p60.
Naren Young on Dante’s success International Bar
p43. Jigger & Pony, Singapore
Feature: p64.
Dan Gregory’s tribute to The Bowery #BTStaffies
p46. Shots from around town
Feature:
Whisky v Whiskey with Elysian’s Kelvin Low
australianbartender.com.au
p6
BARTENDER
Welcome.
Publisher & Editor
David Spanton
david@spantonmedia.com
Managing Editor & Events

Amy Spanton
amy@spantonmedia.com
Design & Production

Randy Watson
Contributors
Christopher Pearce, Naren Young, Dan
Gregory, Jenna Hemsworth, Kelvin Lowe,
@howdoidrinkthis, Burrow Bar, Sydney
Account Enquiries
accounts@spantonmedia.com
Advertising Enquiries
info@spantonmedia.com
It’s good to be looking through the telescope of a brand new year and speculating 0407 551 149
about what the future might hold. For us, we’re hoping that the bars of Australia have
some consistency and we don’t face a year of rolling lockdowns and uncertainty.
Sadly, the hospitality industry continues to bear the brunt of this pandemic and the
end of restrictions and lockdowns can’t come soon enough.
Now that we have ticked over into January, we look forward to a great 2021 and
that’s what we’re planning for. We are pumped to celebrate with everyone in September Produced and published by:
with the biggest Bar Week ever! Spanton Media Group Pty Ltd
There are no guarantees in life and 2020 has demonstrated that. But if we can say Suite 111/ 6-8 Clarke Street,
Crows Nest, NSW 2065
one thing absolutely it’s that you are a resilient bunch. Drinks are still being poured, and ABN 39 086 420 402
although it might be a bit different, we sleep a little better knowing that there are so
All enquiries to:
many dedicated and adaptable people in our hospitality industry. PO Box 1251, Crows Nest NSW 1585
Now onto this issue. Again, we feature a bunch of amazing contributors. We have Advertising: david@spantonmedia.com
Editorial: amy@spantonmedia.com
Kelvin Low from Elysian in Melbourne talking whisky. Big surprise there. We have Jenna
Accounts: accounts@spantonmedia.com
Hemsworth calling for bartenders to stop eye-rolling at the mere mention of vodka. And Print Subscriptions:
subscriptions@spantonmedia.com
we have the duo behind @howdoidrinkthis, Instagram’s breakout star from 2020 and a Or subscribe online at: spantonmedia.com
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to get featured on their daily feed.

They are a testament to how important it is to laugh during these stressful times. The views expressed in Australian
Bartender are those of the respective
One funny comment we read following the Northern Beaches outbreak was from a guy contributors and are not necessarily
who was at the Avalon RSL. He said, and this is a paraphrase, ‘finally we could get back shared by the magazine. Copyright
is held by Australian Bartender
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The magazine cannot be held
Cheers, responsible for the loss or damage
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Dave & Amy
Spanton Media Group:

Member of the Circulation Audit Board
CAB Audited. 4,623 Period ending
September 2020. CAB Audit.
On this month’s cover:

Lucille Rose-Hopkins, Sailor Jerry
AD
YOUNG HENRY’S
p8
The Rail.
Sicilian Margarita from
The Dolphin Surry Hills.
This month’s introductory cocktail comes from have one. You’ll be back for more, trust me. We
Josh Reynolds, the man behind the drinks at sell a ridiculous amount.
The Dolphin in Surry Hills. He was formerly
Matt Whiley’s 2IC and managed Scout. Sichuan Syrup - make a concentrated
Josh and the Dolphin bar team have sichuan water, strain and match with sugar.
created the perfect drinks for your summer in The addition of sichuan pepper provides a
Sydney. “Based around easy all-day drinking, deep and intense citrusy flavour and aroma
with recognisable flavours and interesting and along with the limoncello adds the
elements, fruits,and garnishes that will keep backbone to this drink.
you coming back for more…” says Josh.
An elegant more complex twist on the
ultimate classic, The Margarita, the addition of • 40ml tequila
limoncello and sichuan, right through to the • 15ml limoncello
garnish, really makes this cocktail sing. This • 15ml Sichuan syrup
zippy, zesty number makes it impossible to just • 30ml fresh lemon
p9
Headlines & Stuff.
Monkey Shoulder & Hendrick’s sign on as

major sponsors of the 2021 Bartender Magazine
Bartender of the Year Competition and a trip
to Scotland is on the cards
It’s with great excitement that we can announce that two new brands
have stepped up as the official sponsors of the 2021 Bartender Magazine
Bartender of the Year competition – Hendrick’s and Monkey Shoulder
and the winner of the competition will be flown to Scotland in 2022.
David Spanton, Bartender magazine founder says: “The Bartender
Magazine Bartender of the Year Competition is one of the world’s longest
running and most respected cocktail competitions and in 2021 we are
excited to be partnering with Monkey Shoulder and Hendrick’s. Both
brands come from the prestigious William Grant & Sons portfolio which
have long supported Australian bartenders. The high quality of these
brands works perfectly for us to highlight gin and scotch whisky in 2021.”
“We’re excited to be in partnership with the Bartender of the Year
competition, it will provide a platform for Hendrick’s & Monkey Shoulder
to engage with our bar professionals in a deeper, more meaningful way,”
says Ollie Dickson, Head of Marketing, William Grant & Sons ANZ
This also means the addition of a new prize and we can confirm that
the winner of the 2021 Bartender of the Year competition will be flown to
Hendrick’s Gin Palace in Girvan Scotland in 2022.
Nathan James, Marketing Manager, Gin ANZ, William Grant & Sons
says: “The Bartender of the Year competition has a legacy of unearthing
Australia’s best and brightest bartenders. We look forward to
showcasing next year’s talent and offering the winner the opportunity to
visit the famous Hendrick’s Gin Palace in Scotland and meet Creator and
Master Distiller, Ms Lesley Gracie.”
• For more info on Sydney Bar Week and updates on the Bar
Awards, Bartender of the Year Competition and other events,
sign up for our newsletter or visit sydneybarweek.com.au or
• To register your interest in competing in 2021, simply email
amy@spantonmedia.com
Just 1400 bottles of lees in a previous life as a

The West Winds Sur winemaker, Anthony Reynolds,
Lie Gin limited edition now The West Winds Head
landing now for Distiller, hit upon the idea of
summer merging both brands to create
The West Winds Gin will release something new and exciting for
just 1400 bottles of a one-off gin summer 2020. Being a true
made on Chardonnay lees.The believer that barrel aged gins
West Winds Sur Lie Gin (French should not be dominated by oak,
for ‘on lees’) is a limited-edition Anthony watched the gin closely
gin aged for 12 months in used to ensure the oak enhanced the
Chardonnay barrels as well as gin.The resulting gin has beautiful
incorporating the use of floral notes with hints or
Chardonnay lees into the mix; a coriander, lemon and cinnamon
first for a gin anywhere in the myrtle. There is an underlying
world.The West Winds Sur Lie Gin vanilla character which softens
is a pairing of two Margaret River out the nose and adds complexity.
based producers, Fish Bone The palate is rich and
Wines and The West Winds flavoursome.
Distillery. Having discovered a Contact your Stuart Alexander
love for the taste of Chardonnay rep for more info.
p10
Headlines & Stuff.
Maybe Sammy expands experience due to open early Salt Meats Cheese and Eterna to year in a row as well as the Art of
to CBD hotel and also 2021 on the corner of George and open La Costa Bar and Cielo Hospitality award at The World’s
to Brisbane Hunter Streets in the Sydney Rooftop Bar – two of a promised 50 Best Bars 2020, Maybe Sammy
The owners of award-winning CBD. The working title for the new four venues that look to bring a are revered for their focus on
Sydney cocktail bar Maybe brand is Sammy Junior. touch of classic hospitality back service, hospitality, guest
Sammy have announced a In addition, it was also to The Valley. experience as well as their
partnership with TFE Hotels to announced in December that With a ranking of #11 in the cocktails.
manage the food and beverage Maybe Sammy has teamed up world and having secured Best Watch this space for
offering of a new premium hotel with the Brisbane moguls behind Bar in Australasia for the second more updates.
Speakeasy backs enables the participants to open

Perryn Collier & Alex their very own venue with the
Boon to open Pearl support, mentoring and financial
Diver Cocktails & backing of The Speakeasy Group
Oysters alongside Almenning and
The Speakeasy Group have joined Sanderson.
forces with two of their staff to The 2019/2020 winning
support them opening their own concept Pearl Diver Cocktails &
venue. So watch out as Perryn Oysters is slated for opening in
Collier and Alex Boon are set to the first 6-8 months of 2021 and
open the doors to Pearl Diver is the brainchild of Speakeasy
Cocktails & Oysters come 2021. Group legends Alex Boon and
The Speakeasy Group’s Pez Collier.
Pathway to Partnership Program “For both myself and Pez, the
launched in September 2019. Pathway to Partnership program
Eight participants from a talented was such an amazing opportunity
pool of hospitality professionals to gain valuable insight into what
were selected to take part in the it takes to open and successfully
year-long mentorship program run our own venue from some of
before submitting their final the best operators in the
proposals for review by industry,” says Boon.
Speakeasy Directors Greg
Sanderson and Sven Almenning. Check out the full story online
The successful proposal at australianbartender.com.au
p11
Lawrenny Releases
Ascension Whisky
Amongst the flurry of new whisky releases
from distilleries across the country, one
that is attracting a fair amount of interest is
the Ascension release from Lawrenny
Estate Distillery.
Whilst Lawrenny’s main release remains 18
months away, the distillery has developed
Ascension as a taste of what lies ahead. The
work of award-winning distiller Joe Dinsmoor,
the single malt is initially matured in smaller
Bourbon and Port casks, then migrated into
larger 100L casks before being finished off in
600L antique Pedro Ximenez Spanish sherry
casks. The result delivers a rich, creamy and Red Bull announces Red Bull
nutty character that drinks well beyond its Golden Hour
years. Red Bull announces Red Bull Golden Hour, a
Considerable investment has also been nationwide series celebrating the magical
placed into the packaging of Ascension with energy of a summer sunset. Best known for
Lawrenny revealing their new proprietary elevating selfies across the internet with its
bottle. The presentation reflects the heritage warm reddish glow, Red Bull invites users to
of Lawrenny Estate, incorporating the historic upload their own #RedBullGoldenHour
house as its heart, a solid metal closure and Burrow Bar moves moment with friends while they celebrate
uniquely has an NFC tag embedded within the to a new home longer afternoons into warmer evenings.
back label. After five epic years in De Entries are open now. Red Bull fans are
‘There are so many elements of Lawrenny Mestre Place, in the heart of encouraged to share their most creative image
Estate and of our production that sets our Sydney’s CBD, Burrow Bar taken during sunset hours with the hashtag
whisky apart. We needed to find a way to owners Bryce McDonough #RedBullGoldenHour and tag @redbullau.
communicate all of the unique elements of and Chau Tran have Selected winners will experience a once in a
Lawrenny. The NFC tag has allowed us to do announced today that their lifetime weekend with friends in Byron Bay,
this by taking consumers directly to digital beloved bar is moving. Full hosted by Red Bull.
content developed specifically for the release, details will follow soon but For more information and to see
sharing tasting notes, video content and they have reported that the participating venues across Australia, head
distiller’s production details through a simple bar is very close, has a to www.redbull.com/goldenhour
tap of the label with a mobile phone.’ Burrow feel but is over two Here’s the Bartender mag suggested serve:
commented Jensen Farley, co-founder and levels so will be able to
General Manager of Lawrenny Distillery. accommodate more guests. Red Bull Tropical Gin
Lawrenny Ascension is available That’s good news if you A refreshing and delicious take on
online at lawrenny.com ask us. the Gin and Tonic. Perfect for those
Chau and Bryce told us: sunset sessions with friends!
“2021 is a fresh start and
Burrow is getting a fresh • 45ml Premium Gin
address. Unfortunately, our • 1 x full, cold can of The
lease is up in the space we Tropical Edition from Red Bull
love and have shared with all Garnish with a wedge of lime
our friends for the last five Serve with lots of ice in a Copa
years. But we’ve found some style glass
new digs that are a stone’s
throw away and are so
excited to share more as we
work on Burrow’s evolution.
Watch this space.”
We’ll keep you posted as

more info comes to hand.
p12
Norman ‘Sailor Jerry’ Collins:

The eclectic, wild history of
the godfather of traditional
tattoo and counterculture
As we approach the 110th birthday of the Sailor Jerry himself, we take a deep
dive into the man behind the name, and the legacy of his “all in” lifestyle.
Story by Lucille Rose-Hopkins
Born 1911 in Reno, Nevada, it was clear from a music, and big personalities was beginning to the Navy during World War Two. Strict routines
young age Norman Collins was destined to form throughout the United States. It was and firm rules led sailors to find new and
walk the path less-travelled. Adopting the during this time he met like-minded people, creative ways to express their individuality.
nickname “Jerry” from his father (apparently and fell into the world of tattooing. Finding During down time, sailors would often tattoo
he had a resemblance to the family pet donkey himself in Chicago, Collins began working themselves and their friends, and Collins
of the same name), Collins would leave home under tattoo legend Gib “Tatts” Thomas, began to really develop his unique tattooing
in his early teens to explore the great where he learnt how to use tattoo machines. style hidden away in the sleeping quarters of
unknown. Stowing away on trains and hitching It wouldn’t be long, however, until Collins Navy ships.
rides with strangers, Collins had a strong found himself restless with wanderlust once During his service, Collins fell in love with
desire to see everything the world around him more, and with a keen interest in boats and the Honolulu, Hawaii. This was in the years leading
had to offer. It was the 1920s, and an emerging ocean, enlisted himself in the US Navy in the up to the bombing of Pearl Harbor, when
counterculture bursting with tattoos, loud 1930s. Tattoo culture became really popular in Honolulu was really starting to become an
p13 AUSTR A LIA N BA RTEN DER / SAILOR J ER RY
energetic hub of party, fun, and mischief for US

sailors. It’s no surprise that after his enlistment,
this is where Collins decided it was time to
settle down and open a tattoo studio, right on
the infamous Hotel Street. This is where Sailor
Jerry was born – combining Collins’ family
nickname with an ode to his time in the Navy.
With time, Collins truly became known as
the Godfather of American Traditional tattoo.
Combining his love for Hawaii (look no further
than the iconic Sailor Jerry Hula Girl), with his
passion for hard work and creativity, he is
credited with being the first ever tattoo artist
to figure out how to use certain colour
pigments in tattoos, such as blue and purple.
He is also believed to be the first Westerner to
learn from traditional Japanese tattoo artists
(known as Horis), and his artwork and style
has become a clear fusion of everything he
experienced and learnt in his life.
Personally, I think the most remarkable
thing about Collins was his passion for living
the “all in” lifestyle. He wanted to be the best,
and was always pushing himself to strive
further and make the most out of life. He never
stopped learning, and went on to become a
qualified electrician, a talkback radio host, a
musician in a jazz band, and even a tour boat
operator around Hawaii. In 1973, after suffering
a massive heart attack whilst riding his Harley,
Collins drove himself home where he passed
away in his bed. His tattoo studio would be
passed on to his employees Mike Malone, and
fashion designer Ed Hardy.
In 1999, fans of Sailor Jerry created a small
clothing label out of a shed in Philadelphia to
honour his legacy, where they began printing
his flash art onto shirts and jackets. This store
became a place for bands like Queen of the
Stone Age to pick up funky, unique shirts on
the way to gigs. In 2001, Sailor Jerry spiced rum
was born. With notes of cinnamon and vanilla
creating a flavour bold and smooth as hell,
Sailor Jerry Rum mirrors the high energy, full
force lifestyle of Norman Collins and his legacy.
As the Sailor Jerry ambassador for
Australia, I find great importance in
highlighting and honouring all the eclectic bits Sailor Jerry Ambassador, Lucille Rose-Hopkins
and pieces that made this man, and the brands
that have since followed, who they are today
– tattoos, musicians, artists, and creatives from
all walks of life. For me, nothing is more Sailor
Jerry than getting out to a live gig and TH E M O S T R E M A R K A B LE TH I N G
supporting local artists… with a rum in hand,
of course. A B O U T C O LLI N S WAS H I S PAS S I O N
If there’s one thing we can take from Sailor
Jerry on the eve of his 110th birthday, it’s to FO R LI V I N G TH E “A LL I N ” LI F E S T Y LE .
seize the moment and live life to the fullest.
Be all in. H E WA NTE D TO B E TH E B E S T. . .
p14
Headlines & Stuff.
Asia’s 2020 DRiNK

Awards announced
with Singapore’s
Jigger & Pony
big winners!
This year’s DRiNK Awards
ceremony was held on
November 23, 2020 at the
Jing An Shangri-La in
Shanghai, gathering the trade together to
celebrate the achievements of the China and Asia bar
scenes. The fifth edition of the renowned bar industry
awards recognised this year’s leading people, venues and
brands across 23 awards categories. Jigger & Pony
Singapore were big winners on the night taking out Bar
Team Asia and Bar of the Year Asia. This is hot on the heels
of winning the Best bar in Asia in the World’s 50 Best Bars.
Other winners included Flavor Tiki in Chongqing for
Cocktail Program, KOR in Shangai for High Volume Bar and
2020 also saw Bannie Kang crowned as the first female to
win Bartender of the Year Asia.
Diageo World Class is back in 2021 and Madrid
is the host city
Diageo World Class Bartender of the Year returns in 2021, with
entries to the Australian competition open from 1 Febuary.
The Australian winner will compete in the Global Finals, where a
new World Class Global Bartender of the Year will be crowned in a
unique multi-format event hosted in Madrid, Spain from 5-8th July
2021. The event will be the first since the 2020 event was
postponed due to the Coronavirus pandemic and will be specially
created to celebrate global cocktail culture safely in line with all
prevailing government guidelines.
The move to Madrid for the 2021 Global Finals, from the intended
2020 host city of Sydney, allows the adapted event greater flexibility
to work across multiple timezones. Instead, Sydney has been
confirmed as the host city for the World Class Bartender of the Year
Global Finals 2022. Jigger and Pony team
But back to the World Class Bartender of the Year – Australian
Competition. It’s time to find the 12th Australian winner so Diageo
Reserve World Class is calling on local bartenders to represent their
country and enter the drinks industry’s most respected bartending
competition. A new format competition, bartenders will lodge their Never Never
drinks via the Diageo Bar Academy portal before competing in a Mediterranean Gin
series of challenges where they use Reserve Brands to experiment Inspired by the Fleurieu Peninsula
with flavour, balance and creativity across Ketel One Vodka, and its climate likened to the
Tanqueray No.TEN gin, Johnnie Walker Black Label blended Scotch Mediterranean, Med Gin is a
whisky and the Diageo Malts portfolio. Prizes will be given at every release under the Dark Series
stage of the competition, rewarding more bartenders than ever as experimental series that
part of the program. promotes the fresh local produce
To celebrate the Australian finals in April, Diageo will also host found around their new home in
the World Class Cocktail Festival, a seven day national program of the Fleurieu Peninsula. It has a
experiences that celebrate the craft of cocktail culture. The festival distinctive flavour from the
will culminate with the national winner being crowned at an inspiring Somerton almonds, Kalamata
event on 26 April in Sydney, hosted in strict accordance to COVID olives and brine and coastal daisy
safety regulations. Further details will be announced in due course. bush distilled individually, on top
• Entries for the 2021 Australian competition are open from 1 of their unique triple juniper
February and can be made by visiting www. distillation process.”
diageobaracademy.com/en_zz/world-class-/competition/ Contact Proof & Company
p15
Open!
Leigh Street
Wine Room
9 Leigh Street, Adelaide
It opened more than a year ago but came to
our attention again recently after it won Best
Bar Design in the 2020 Eat Drink Design
Awards. The venue pays homage to the classic
wine bars of yesteryear. It’s a real
neighbourhood bar; that place around the
corner that is homely but has a way better
wine selection than you could ever stock.
Built on the site of a former dry-cleaning
business (the original signage remains intact),
the ultra-narrow footprint has been artfully
overhauled by local firm Studio Gram on an
impressively compact budget.
A vaulted archway integrates a mezzanine
level over the terrazzo bar serving intelligent
drops and substantial snacks. A library of more
than 400 bottles of minimal-intervention wine
fills an entire wall, showcasing what this place
does best.
While the eclectic design scheme has been
carefully curated, it never feels overworked.
The result is an instant classic that you’ll want
to visit every time you’re in Adelaide.
Ballers Clubhouse
2 Coverlid Place, Melbourne
Melbourne is now home to the largest licensed
venue its CBD has ever seen. This ‘supervenue’
known as Ballers Clubhouse spans 2500sqm
and is a bar, eatery, social club, and games
hub in one.
It’s all about offering a one-stop-shop. With
75 beer taps to whet your whistle and a
plethora of games to play. And we’re not just
talking pokies. There are ping-pong tables,
dart booths, shuffleboard courts and a VR
playhouse for those who could stand putting
on those goggles after a few beverages.
There’s also a patio with banana chairs to
make the most of outdoor drinking which is a
must in a COVID-safe new world.
A funhouse for the big kids, this mammoth
venue is put together by the team from Pawn &
Co - Josh Lefers and Stephen Wools. They
recruited Elle Critchley Design for the fit-out
which is all about the fun with a bit of luxury
and some gadgets thrown in for good measure. >
AUSTR A LIA N BA RTEN DER / R ED BULL
p16
Upload your photo to Instagram

for your chance to win a once in
a lifetime weekend with friends,
hosted by Red Bull.
Be quick! Entries close soon!
Red Bull announces Red Bull Golden Hour, a
nationwide series celebrating the magical
energy of a summer sunset. Best known for
elevating selfies across the internet with its
warm reddish glow, Red Bull invites users to
upload their own #RedBullGoldenHour
moment with friends while they celebrate
longer afternoons into warmer evenings.
Entries close on January 18, from which

Red Bull fans are encouraged to share their
most creative image taken during sunset
hours with the hashtag #RedBullGoldenHour
and tag @redbullau. Selected winners will
experience a once in a lifetime weekend with
friends in Byron Bay, hosted by Red Bull.
For more information and to see participating • Refer to your local state government for the latest response to the Coronavirus
venues across Australia, pandemic. You can check restrictions in all states and territories using the COVID-19
head to www.redbull.com/goldenhour Restriction Checker. *Terms and Conditions apply.
p17
YOUR PERFECT RED BULL ON INSTAGRAM STORIES OR ONCE IN A LIFETIME

GOLDEN HOUR MOMENT FEED TAGGING @REDBULLAU WEEKEND WITH FRIENDS
WITH FRIENDS & #REDBULLGOLDENHOUR HOSTED BY RED BULL
SCAN THE QR CODE TO FIND OUT MORE WWW.REDBULL.COM/GOLDENHOUR
Refer to your local state government for the latest response to the Coronavirus pandemic. You can check
restrictions in all states and territories using the COVID-19 Restriction Checker. *Terms and Conditions apply.
Open!
GUM
173 Johnston Street, Collingwood
GUM is a brand new ‘tiny pub’ on Collingwood’s
main drag on Johnston Street, serving up ice
cold draught beer, hot pies and nostalgic
1970s style cocktails in a swish 70s themed
small bar environment.
Owners and best mates Chris Wright and
Jonathan Reisacher say it’s bar-meets-Aussie
pub. “We’re trying to make the place feel like a
mix between a wine bar and a pub, but all the
while being somewhere people can party into
the night”, says Wright.
The food offering is, you guessed it, true
blue with pies, sausage rolls and vanilla slice
on offer, see menu here: https://www.gumbar.
com.au/menu. The pies are from Footscray’s
‘Pie Thief’ and available for dine-in or on the
go plus take-home packs. House favourites
include the ‘Big Mac Pie’, the ‘Vegan Spaghetti
Bolognese Pie’ and the rightly named
‘Snot Block’.
The drinks list is varied and delicious
with plenty of classic and craft beer cans
available as well as reds, whites, cocktails and
cocktail jugs. Cocktail favourites include
‘The Banana Cream Daquiri’ (because, 70s!),
‘The Grapple Cocktail’ (an apple and green
bubble tea concoction) and ‘The Aperoyal’
(everyone’s favourite Spritz on steroids to
share with mates).
There are local DJs playing from Thursdays
– Saturdays and plenty planned for the
summer ahead including Sunday BBQs,
Trivia and Games Nights.
This is the duo’s first hospitality venture
together with both having been involved in
the music industry. Chris owns recording
studio and record label Sunset Pig above
Gum and Jono plays in the band ‘Department’
who are signed to the label.
“We’ve visited countless bars during our
time as touring musicians, so we reckon we
know what makes a good place to drink”,
says Reisacher.
The fit-out for GUM was completed by local
interior expert Bianca Sciuto who worked
within the creative guidelines of Aussie
nostalgia to bring the 70s rock chic to life.
Get Spritzing / p28.
The
Long
Pour.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
p20
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of love its way?
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r i s topher Pearc
all lea r Jen n Ch
Can we Stor y by ho to g r aphy by
P
Jasmine 2.0
• 50ml wheat vodka
• 10ml Applewood Okar Island Bitter
• 30ml Davidson plum and jasmine
tea syrup (3:2 sugar syrup made
with jasmine tea- with 1tsp
Davidson plum powder added to
each 500ml of tea)
• 20ml lemon
Shake all ingredients and strain
into highball over cubed ice
Top with soda.
Garnish with fresh jasmine flowers.
Cocktail recipe courtesy of

Jenna Hemsworth
>
p21
p22
What is it about vodka that triggers a collective eye roll from bartenders
everywhere? Why have we been conditioned to hold such contempt for
one of the world’s most popular spirits?
Sure, we’ve been hurt before. It’s a tasteless drink for people who
don’t know how to drink, right? But can we unpack all of that a little?
Undoubtedly one could classify vodka as a ‘beginner’s spirit’,
reserved for the days of underage drinking- but the versatility alone
should give us pause to reconsider what this ‘spirit without distinctive
character, aroma or taste’ can bring to the table.
I would dare say that using vodka effectively in a spirit forward,
balanced cocktail requires far more talent and technique than a spirit
with a stronger flavor profile.
Obviously, if the 2000’s taught us anything (besides ultimate fashion
and arguably the best music ever), if you throw a bunch of sugar at it and
attach the suffix –tini to whatever flavor you’ve decided to put in there,
you’ve got a winner.
And I would not argue that point, to some extent. Espresso martinis
continue to be one of the most popular drinks ordered in any bar at any
given time, and I will fight anyone that tries to tell me a porn star martini
is anything but delicious. But make me a drink that makes the subtle
complexities of vodka the star and you will indeed have my respect.
Unlike some spirits which are bound by location, base product and
time (such as tequila, cognac or scotch), vodka can be made very
quickly, anywhere in the world, and with any raw carbohydrate that will
ferment. Most commonly grains such as rye, wheat or corn are used, but
some producers are turning to alternate sources such as grape, beets,
rice and of course the infamous potato. This choice can ultimately
depend on budget, location, availability or abundance, but as many
commercial producers buy in their neutral grain spirit, this decision is
made for them.
Although so much emphasis is placed on the removal of character,
flavor and aroma of your final product in order to achieve ‘ultimate
purity’ through excessive filtration processes, there will never be a
completely pure vodka. These trace elements that remain after filtration
are what give each vodka their unique character.
Vodkas made with different base products will have subtle
differences and characteristics, as follows. Rye vodkas will be full of
peppery spice and minerality, whereas wheat vodkas will have a sweet
creaminess and silky mouthfeel. Corn vodkas will tend to have a less
distinctive taste or aroma, and little body; and potato vodkas such as
I B E LI E V E VO D K A S H O U LD Chopin will be rich and earthy and a great starting point to understand
the intricacies of vodka as a category.
B E M A K I N G A C O M E BAC K Alternatively, we are starting to see brands experimenting with
creating a profile of vodkas made from different base products, such as
A M O N G S T BA R TE N D E R S A N D the newcomers from Melbourne, Grainshaker. They have a corn, wheat
and rye expression and although being initially skeptical of there being
B R O U G HT BAC K I NTO TH E any vast difference between them, tasting each one back to back was
really eye opening- and trying each one in a martini really showcased
‘ C O O L G R O U P ’ O F S PI R IT S . the effect and difference that the product you make your vodka from
imparts on the final liquid.
I M E A N , W E ’ V E D O N E IT Now on the subject of the martini. It may be rhetorical to ask a
customer if they prefer ‘gin or vodka’, one shouldn’t be so quick to
W ITH B LU E C U R ACAO dismiss the beauty of a well-constructed vodka martini. Although vastly
simpler than its more widely embraced gin counterpart, I encourage you
A N D M O J ITO S . . . to revisit a wet vodka martini next time the opportunity arises.
Personally, I believe vodka should be making a comeback amongst
bartenders and brought back into the ‘cool group’ of spirits. I mean,
we’ve done it with blue curacao and mojitos, also once thought of as naff,
so why not vodka?
p23
Vesper
• 2 oz gin
• 1/2 oz vodka
• 1/2 oz Lillet Blanc Aperitif
• Lemon twist for garnish
• Shake and strain
Adapted from Gary Regan’s

The Joy of Mixology
>
p24
Anouchka
• 2.5 oz vodka
• 1/3 oz crème de mure
Stir and strain into a
cocktail glass. Lemon
garnish
Adapted from Salvatore

Calabrese’s Classic
Cocktails
Donny Don’t
• 45ml rye vodka
• 15ml Palo Cortado
sherry
• 25mL lemon juice
• 15mL agave vinegar
(10:1 agave nectar to
Chardonnay vinegar)
• 1 truss tomato,
quartered and muddled
• 6 basil leaves
• 1/2 bsp salt
Muddle the salt and tomato
together, add ingredients
and hard shake.
Double strain into
coupette.
Garnish with basil leaf
and three drops evoo.
Cocktail recipe courtesy

of Jenna Hemsworth
p25
The Vodka Drink

• 45ml Milkwash Assam Bold tea
vodka
• 20ml Mancino Secco
• 15ml plum and szechuan syrup
Garnish with a mist of szechuan
Peychaud’s bitters
Stir and pour over a cube of ice
in a small rocks glass. Top with
a mist of Szechuan Peychaud’s and
plum fruit leather.
Burrow Bar, Sydney
>
p26
Vodka Tasting Notes

Kettle One Vodka Belvedere Heritage 176 Malted
Made with over 300 years of Nolet Rye Vodka
Family distilling expertise, Ketel Belvedere Heritage 176 is quite
One Vodka delivers a crisp and simply a taste of vodka’s past. Up
sophisticated taste and flavour, until the 19th century. Polish
ideal as the foundation to a vodka makers relied on the old
cocktail or the perfect Martini. technique of ‘malting’, using
Crafted from small batches using fire-kilns to liberate enzymes from
copper pot stills, Ketel One Vodka the rye’s starch - a tradition which
maintains the traditions of its also naturally revealed rich and
Dutch Heritage to deliver an distinctive flavors. Moet
exceptional quality Vodka. Diageo Hennessy
Suntory HAKU Vodka 666 Pure Tasmanian Vodka

The name Haku means “white” in 666 is made from using the
Japanese and refers to the world’s purest rain water from
Japanese white rice that is the Tasmania’s Cape Grim and
origin of the liquid. Haku uses a distilling Tasmanian barley in a
uniquely Japanese method of triple copper pot distillation
bamboo charcoal filtration. process. Southtrade
Suntory has been making vodka
since 1956, and Haku represents Grey Goose
Suntory’s philosophy of Made from soft winter wheat from
craftsmanship, meticulous northern France, Grey Goose
attention to detail, and presents with floral aromas and
commitment to quality. The liquid subtle citrus on the nose, with a
has an unparalleled soft, round smooth, rounded texture on the
and subtly sweet taste. Beam palate and a hint of almond
Suntory character leading to a fresh,
bright, and long finish. Bacardi-
Chase Potato Vodka Martini
Chase Vodka is the world’s first
super premium English potato Tried & True Straight Wheat
vodka. Made on the family farm in Vodka
Herefordshire, Chase are the only A finely made, authentic neutral
UK distillery to offer a premium vodka that craft barfolk can rely
vodka that is made entirely from on. Distilled in a stainless
seed to bottle, giving a quality five-column process, exclusively
vodka with provenance. Stuart from soft winter wheat grown and
Alexander milled in Picardie, France. Proofed
down to a cocktail appropriate
White Light Vodka 44% ABV. The result is a clean
Multi-award winning White Light profile with no adulterants – no
Vodka, a 100% pure, Australian sugar, citric acid or glycerine - to
Premium Vodka. Crafted from the create a liquid with intrinsic
best produce and cleanest waters, quality. Proof & Company
triple distilled and chilled charcoal
filtered to create the smoothest, Skyy Vodka
cleanest vodka. Whether it’s a Discover pure perfection with
Bloody Mary, Caprioska, Moscow Skyy Vodka. Skyy Vodka’s
mule, or martini, White Light proprietary quadruple-distillation
Vodka is the answer. and triple-filtration process
White Light Vodka consistently yields a vodka of
proven smoothness and quality
that is amongst the purest of
leading brands. Campari
Australia
p27 A U S T R A L I A N B A R T E N D E R / F E V E R- T R E E
Mixing with the best –

Soda Edition!
By Trish Brew like turning a Hemmingway Daiquiri into a

Hemmingway Spritz by building the rum, lime,
Thankfully summer is here and after a and maraschino liqueur over ice and topping
tumultuous year, the arrival of the new range of with the Pink Grapefruit soda.
Fever-Tree sodas to Australian shores is one Finally, we have the Italian Blood Orange
the biggest highlights of our year! The three soda which is crafted using in-season Sicilian
new additions to the Fever-Tree mixer family blood oranges that is then blended with
are the Lime & Yuzu soda, the Pink Grapefruit bergamot as well as wormwood to give it depth
soda, and the Italian Blood Orange soda! and complexity. For straightforward usage, we
The Lime & Yuzu soda is proudly made found that it paired beautifully with any white
using the finest Mexican limes from Yucatan spirit, but especially well with grape based or
and Japanese Yuzu fruit from the Oita aromatic spirits like Cognac, Pisco, and Rhum
province as well as Shikoko Island. Bubbly, Agricole in a simple highball with a lemon twist.
bright, and fresh, it adds a tangy yet subdued A fun way to play with it as bartenders is as a
moreish citrus edge to any drinks topped with lengthener to turn your favourite Negroni into
soda. For the simplest application, the Following on, The Pink Grapefruit soda a bubbly tall aperitif, just build your Negroni
substitution for regular soda in a Vodka or Gin harnesses the freshest and most vibrant over ice in a tall glass and top it up with the
and Soda (or any spirit/soda combo of your hand-picked Florida grapefruits in its creation Blood Orange soda!
choice) will immediately showcase its and is the shoo-in as a mixer for one of The possibilities are just endless and are
versatility, but for a more sophisticated use, summer’s ultimate drinks, The Paloma. Whilst yearning to be explored now that these new
perhaps try topping up your gin fizz (or Ramos the Paloma is an obvious choice, we sodas have hit our shores. Get your creative
even) with the Lime & Yuzu soda to give it a experimented with a few other spirits that juices flowing and we at Fever-Tree Australia
certain je na sais quoi! Another fun way to play, proved to be extremely tasty combos, namely cannot wait to see, hear, and taste all the
is to top up a simple lager/session ale/light Absinthe/Pastis and Sloe Gin. The herbal and delicious things you come up with using these
sour beer with it instead of lemonade to make fruity qualities of the spirits were really new products that we are so proud to present
a banging shandy…. We tried it with the Kaiju accentuated by the soft rosy note of the Pink to you! After a tough year, let us not forget to
Krush tropical ale which yielded a delicious Grapefruit soda, and we implore you to give it a be kind to each other, stay healthy, and as
thirst-quenching result! go yourselves! Try some simple and fun things always, mix with the best!
p28
Treuse and Hospitality

• 30 ml pineapple-infused yellow
Chartreuse
• 10ml fermented apple vinegar
• 10ml cream sherry
• 90ml sparkling wine
Build in a highball and top with
sparkling wine and dehydrated
pineapples.
Burrow Bar, Sydney
Summer Spritz
The Spritz is the staple of the summer cocktail list,
so we’ve pulled together five cracking recipes
Story by Amy Spanton Photography by Christopher Pearce
In recent years, the Spritz has become a SECOND:

category unto itself. But what is a Spritz? And A spritz is low in alcohol, which, for our
why do we love them so goddamn much? Well purposes, means that it should contain no
we referred to the Spritz bible, Spritz, Italy’s more than one ounce of strong spirits
Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail by Talia (preferably less). This is a drink that is
Baiocchi & Leslie Pariseau to get their consumed when the day is waning and the
definition of the spritz. And here’s what they night is young.
have to say:
THIRD:
FIRST: A spritz is a pre-dinner drink, meant to be
A spritz is always effervescent. Whether its consumed in that liminal hour between work
bubble is acquired through soda water, and play. It should be bitter as a means to open
prosecco, some other sparkling wine, or a the stomach for a meal.”
flavored soda, the spritz would not be a spritz
without buoyancy. >
p29
Rib Tickler
• 2 oz Dolin Dry Vermouth
• ¾ oz Suze
• ½ oz elderflower liqueur
• ½ oz fresh lemon juice
• ¼ oz simple syrup
• Top With Fever Tree Soda Water
Pour the vermouth, Suze, elderflower,
lemon juice, and simple syrup in
a wine glass over ice. Top with
soda water and add the half-wheel
grapefruit garnish
Alex Day Nitecap, New York City, NY

Adapted from the book Spritz, Italy’s
Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail by
Talia Baiocchi & Leslie Pariseau
p30
Rosa Rosa Ro-oo-sa Spritz

‘This drink was so good that a
customer got it tattooed on himself.
So we’ve made it in a spritz format
and it’s delicious.’
• 20ml vodka
• 20ml Tio Pepe
• 5ml Rinquinquin Peche
• 20ml Cocchi rosa
• Fever Tree soda water
Tall collins glass, build and top
with soda water and garnish with
fresh rosemary.
Burrow Bar, Sydney
Breezy Bananas
• 20ml Appleton Estate Signature
Rum
• 20ml Kahunas Mix*
• 30ml pineapple juice
• 1 dash of absinthe
• 50ml prosecco
• Bar spoon of banana jam
• mint sprig
*Kahunas Mix: A blend of grapefruit
juice and zest, lime zest, cinnamon,
nutmeg, sugar and acids.
Stir banana jam with rum in base
of the shaker until it dissolves,
add all other ingredients except
prosecco and shake. Fine strain into
wine glass, top up with prosecco, add
ice and garnish with mint sprig.
Ashley Miller, Blue Kahunas,

Newcastle
p31
Adding the fizz

As always, when you’re adding
fizz to your spritz you want to
make sure you’re using a good
quality bubble – for an Aperol
Spritz it’s always an Italian
prosecco and if it’s your own
creation you should opt for a top
notch sparkling wine. When it
comes to soda, again, opt for
something top shelf:
Fever Tree Premium

Soda Water
At the heart of every Fever-Tree
drink is taste, which is why they
use the highest quality
ingredients for their range of
premium natural mixers. Top
bartenders have quickly realised
the benefits of a great mixer,
using Fever-Tree as their mixer of
choice. Made from pure spring
water, their Club Soda is perfect
for bringing out the best flavours
of great spirits. SouthTrade
International
PS Soda Smoked Lemonade

A result of true collaboration
between PS40 and LPs Quality
Meats. Definitely not vegan.
Ingredients: LPs smoked wated,
lemon and lime juice and zests,
rosemary, Murray River salt. The Aperol Spritz
PS Sodas are made in the heart of • 90ml Prosecco
Sydney, at one of the country’s • 60ml Aperol
best cocktail bars – PS40. • 30ml good quality soda water
Designed with mixing in mind In a large wine glass (380-420ml
– alcoholic or otherwise – they in size) add Prosecco, then Aperol
make excellent drinks just by and finally your soda. Then you add
themselves. Much better tasting your ice. Big chunky ice. It should
options than some of the be a full glass with no sad bits of
‘non-alcoholic’ options on the ice floating in the top. Stir and
market. Proof & Company garnish with a wedge of orange.
p32
How
to...
More Silk • 45ml 78 Degrees Small
Batch Gin
Than Saturn
• 10ml orgeat
• 10ml falernum
• 30ml lemon-passionfruit
butter*
This creamy, delicious
cocktail is a treat for the Add all to blender
with a small scoop
old taste buds. of crushed ice.
Here’s how you make it. BLEND. Pour into
a coupette.
Garnish - peychauds
Photography by
Christopher Pearce *Lemon-passionfruit butter
recipe
• 120ml lemon juice
Cocktails presented by Bryce • 10g lemon zest
McDonough from Burrow Bar, Sydney • 200g unsalted butter
• 175g sugar
• 120g (8) yolks
This month we headed to the beloved Burrow • 170g passionfruit pulps
Bar, a hidden laneway gem in Sydney’s CBD with and all
a reputation for damn fine drinks and damn fine • 1g salt
people. During what was a super tough 2020, Vac seal and sous vide at
the names Chau Tran and Bryce McDonough 75 degrees celcius for an
came up again and again as true supporters of hour. Massage it every 20
the industry and of their staff. So, kudos to them. mins. Chill it down.
And, let’s face it, they are a bar that serves Blend to emulsify.
banging cocktalis. This one here is a riff on the It’s now ready to use.
tiki Saturn drink and it’s a smooth, sweet and
creamy sensation. >
p33
p34
1. 2. 3.
7. 8. 9.
13. 14. 15.

p35
4. 5. 6.
10. 11. 12.

How to...
Prep time
Step 1: First you need to prepare Step 9: Now that the lemon
your lemon-passionfruit butter. Start passionfruit butter is good to
with adding butter to vacuum seal go, you can prep the drink. Start
sous vide bag with adding falernum to blender
Step 2: Add egg yolks Step 10: Add orgeat
Step 3: Add sugar Step 11: Add lemon-passionfruit
Step 4: Add passionfruit butter
pulps and all Step 12: Add Gin
Step 5: Add lemon juice Step 13: Add crushed ice
Step 6: Add salt Step 14: Blend
Step 7: Seal the bag Step 15: Pour into coupette
16.
Step 8: Sous vide at 75 degrees and garnish with Peychaud;s
Celsius for one hour, massaging every Step 16: Voila
20 minutes. Chill and blend.
p36
Brew
�
YEAST YEAST YEAST YEAST YEAST YEAST

p37

One of the unfortunate

outcomes of a globally
connected world is the
proliferation and expansion
of conspiracy theories.
Whether it be QAnon, 5G,
or the Singularity, there is
plenty of opportunity to fashion yourself a
mighty fine tinfoil hat and hide in the garage
until the end of days. But despite all these
fashionable distractions, there is a deeper
truth, that since the beginning of the Neolithic
The truth behind the brew revolution we have been operating at the whim
(and how it changed the world) of a single-celled organism with one thing in
mind – to stay alive. This invisible menace
caused us to give up our nomadic lifestyle and
By Sam Egerton, embrace a life of oblivious indentured
Group Bars Manager, Merivale servitude. As COVID shut down our industry
and the greater world, the bakery aisle was the
second to feel the effects of the mass hysteria
– why sourdough?
There are global industries where the
primary purpose is to keep yeast alive. Before
we even knew what yeast was, we knew it was
safer to drink and eat a fermented product.
Most brewers will joke that in reality they work
for the yeast – that their job is to feed it and
keep it happy. This organism from the fungi
class of flora is found in biofuels, baking, the
wine industry, and of course brewing. It is
everywhere – in the air, in the soil, on your skin.
Who runs the world?
Yeast.
>
p38
Yeast first originated hundreds of millions

of years ago and established itself as part of
our ecosystem as homosapiens evolved. By
Y beers that have clean, straight forward flavours
driven by malt and hops – if you haven’t drunk
a Pilsner Urquell after a solid service add it to
intelligently showing us how to make delicious your list, you don’t yet know refreshment.
booze (through fermentation) they could enjoy Wild Yeast refers to any species of yeast in
a relatively cushy eternity alongside our own
journey of expansion. While there are many
species of yeast, there are two principal types
E fermentation other than the pitching yeast
(the first yeast added pre-fermentation), often
derived from the environment in or
that brewers are concerned with: surrounding the brewery. Centuries ago,
Saccharomyces Cerevisae, aka Ale Yeast, and before brewers discovered what yeast truly
A
Saccharomyces Uvarum or Pastorianus was, beer was allowed to spontaneously
(formerly Carlbergensis), aka Lager Yeast. ferment. As soon as the wort (pre-fermented
Within these species hundreds of unique sugar rich liquid) cooled, wild yeasts in the air
strains bring their unique characteristics to the and the barrel would invade the wort and
brewing experience. begin the fermentation. This ancient way of
Now for a bit of the technical stuff. brewing lives on in the lambic beers of Belgium
Fermentation is the process of yeast taking
starches and sugars and turning them into
alcohol, C02, and more yeast. Fermentation is
S and this practise of encouraging wild yeasts in
brewing has started to gain popularity across
the globe. The beers at Wildflower in Sydney
the primary means of producing adenosine have reached cult status and are well worth
triphosphate (ATP) by breaking down organic the journey to their cellar door in Marrickville
T
nutrients anaerobically (without oxygen). ATP to get your head around this unique style.
is an energy-carrying molecule found in the The introduction of wild yeast into wort or
cells of all living things. Yeast takes sugar beer can be intentional, as in the production of
(glucose) and breaks it down to release carbon spontaneously fermented lambic beer, or
dioxide, alcohol and ATP in a low oxygen unintentional, through contamination in the
environment. Comparatively, we do the same brewery. Wild yeasts are considered spoilage
thing - except in our case glucose is combined organisms in modern brewing and are largely
with oxygen and carbon dioxide, water and vessel and forms a cake-like mass – this is avoided. Wild yeasts can be natural strains of
ATP is released. The human body creates where ale yeast gains its moniker as ‘top- Ale (Cerevisiae) or Lager (Pastorianus) as well
energy in the presence of oxygen, which is fermenting’. This yeast can be skimmed from as Brettanomyces, the culprit responsible for
why we breathe. Although yeast produces the top of the brew and then added to the next barnyard or horse blanket aromas. A classic
alcohol during the fermentation process (yay, batch to create consistency in the brewing example of a beer that uses Brettanomyces in
bevvies), yeast is actually more focused on process. The entire process can happen so a controlled setting is Orval – a miraculous
producing ATP so it can stay alive. quickly that some ales can be consumed in as beer if you can get your hands on it. Craft
Unfortunately, yeast doesn’t care about little as a week. Lagers, unfortunately, require a breweries across Australia are starting to play
what you want – but through the adjustment little more patience. with ‘Brett’ – Wayward’s Brett IPA showcases
of conditions (temperature, pH, water) it can Lagers are relative newcomers to the world this is an approachable manner. Although not
be coerced to act in a certain way to create of beer but firmly hold the title for the most technically ‘wild’ yeast, acid-producing
specific styles of beer. Through the intentional consumed style in the world. In the world of bacteria such as Lactobacillus and
(and unintentional) evolution of brewing we beer, lager pays the bills. Lager yeast Pediococcus have their place in this realm of
have managed to create yeast strains that act (Saccharomyces Pastorianus) was not brewing. Lactobacillus, more commonly found
in some very specific ways. Although there is discovered until the mid 1880s, but in Bavaria in yoghurt, creates the sour and tart flavours
no black and white when it comes to beer and (Germany) brewers had probably been using it becoming increasingly popular in craft
brewing, breaking things down by traditional for some time. Before refrigeration, these brewing – a good Berliner Weisse is as
yeast influences helps to carve things out. brewers carried out their fermentation in deep, refreshing as a daiquiri in my opinion.
Ale yeast (Saccharomyces Cerevisae) is by cool caves and tunnels to protect them from Pediococcus, which plays an integral part in
far the older type of brewing yeast. Fermenting the external heat. This eventually evolved their sauerkraut, is also a key component in the
at warmer temperatures, typically between 17 yeast to prefer the lower temperature. They magical process of making Rodenbach, a beer
and 24 degrees, ales ferment quickly taking as are at their best between 7 and 13 degrees, accurately referred to as the Burgundies of
little as a few days. During the fermentation with a fermentation that is slower and less Belgium. Rodenbach Grand Cru is worth
process, most ale yeasts will produce flavours tumultuous than ale. Once the fermentation is tracking down and is at the top of my desert
and aromas that give a beer style its unique complete the yeast settles to the bottom – island beer list – the last time I stopped by
identity. These aromas tend to be fruit driven, hence lagers are referred to as ‘bottom- Burrow Bar in Sydney they had it in the fridge.
spicy and complex. The spectrum of ales is fermenting’. Lagers require additional time in Forget what Fox News is telling you, get out
vast, taste Stone & Wood Pacific Ale next to cold storage (the term Lager comes from the of your YouTube rabbit hole and come to terms
Guinness and you start to get the picture. German word lagerung ‘to store’) with aging with the fact that we were never in control, but
Once the yeast has finished consuming sugar lasting weeks or even months in temperatures at least our malevolent overlords gave us
it tends to rise to the top of the fermentation close to 0 degrees. Lager yeasts produce something tasty to drink along the way.
p39
TH E S PE C TR U M O F A LE S I S VAS T, TAS TE S TO N E & WO O D PAC I F I C A LE

N E X T TO G U I N N E S S A N D YO U S TA R T TO G E T TH E PI C T U R E . O N C E TH E
Y E AS T H AS F I N I S H E D C O N S U M I N G S U GA R IT TE N D S TO R I S E TO TH E
TO P O F TH E F E R M E NTATI O N V E S S E L A N D FO R M S A CA K E - LI K E M AS S
– TH I S I S W H E R E A LE Y E AS T GA I N S IT S M O N I K E R AS ‘ TO P - F E R M E NTI N G ’.
p40
I’ve been asked countless times, “Why did Dante win

‘World’s Best Bar’ last year?” It’s not an easy question
to answer but one I’ve pondered a lot in my own
moments of reflection. There are so many great bars
now that turn up on every listicle imaginable and all
Opinion spread out in a more diverse geographic diaspora
� than ever before. Many of them truly world class.
Some of them truly questionable. So it goes.
So, what does separate one great bar from another? And what makes
one single bar the best? It’s all a bit silly really but I did want to share a
Showing gratitiude couple of small things that I implemented as part of the culture at Dante
that I’ve not seen or heard of in other bars. Small details that I believe
elevated the way people viewed our bar beyond the ubiquitous ways
that many people (mistakenly) judge bars: nice drinks, elegant often
Is it what separates one great bar ridiculous serving vessels, fancy ice, embroidered waistcoats. You know
from another? the drill by now.
So, let’s talk about gratitude . . . .
Behind the bar, we kept a small back book next to the POS terminal
Story by Naren Young where we would write in every VIP that came in. The staff became very
adept at introducing themselves to everyone that sat at the bar and we
could sniff out industry folk like a basset hound, no matter where they
were from. The presence of some bar people is more obvious than
others it seems. My team would ask their name, where they worked etc.
and would write it down immediately, no matter how busy they were.
p41
Each of them would then get a small taste of what we would internally
call ‘love’. A small welcome drink that was thoughtful, delicious and
unique to us. Our go-to was a little elegant shot glass of white port and
elderflower tonic with a frozen grape, although we had a list (again only
known internally amongst the staff) of about twenty very thoughtful
‘love’ options that we could call on and that we could insert into their
experience, especially if they were dining.
We would group these into ‘pre love’ (so mostly light, dry aperitif
style), ‘mid’ (something to pair with their food), such as a splash of
madeira or cider with their charcuterie plate as an example; and ‘post’
(served after their meal when it might be mini Espresso Martinis,
Grasshoppers, house limoncello or the like). It was a very considered
approach that I’ve seen few bars bother to execute with grace.
Of course, the guest had no idea that we were going to these lengths
and discussing the options amongst the team on the fly to curate
something simple yet magical for them that would blow them away by
the time they’d left. But moreover, what this showed was our gratitude to
our industry friends and regulars, two groups we went out of our way to
coddle in new and unique ways.
But the most powerful tool was the little black regulars’ book. It was
old school, written in by hand. I’m sure there’s a more technologically
advanced way of doing this through the terminal but I’m still old school
like that. We would write down their name (which was a great reference
check next time they came in and perhaps you forgot their name, which
I often did) and what they drank. At the end of the night, that day’s page
was photographed and sent around to all staff in our WhatsApp group.
So, no matter where I was in the world as I was often traveling
(remember those days?), I could see who came in. TH E PR E S E N C E O F S O M E BA R
I would often email these people with a small but sincere note along
the lines of: “Hey X. I saw you came by Dante last night. I’m so sorry I PE O PLE I S M O R E O BV I O U S
wasn’t there to host you personally, but I trust you were in great hands. I
hope you enjoyed yourself and do please let me know if there’s anything TH A N OTH E R S IT S E E M S . M Y
we could have improved upon your experience. We look forward to
welcoming you back again soon. Much love”. TE A M WO U LD AS K TH E I R N A M E ,
Again, more gratitude. It’s so easy to do and yet to this day, amongst
all the Top 50 bars on any list, I’ve never received such a note from a W H E R E TH E Y WO R K E D E TC .
single one. That’s not to say they don’t do it, but I doubt it. Am I bitter
about that? Of course not. But I do believe it’s these small touches that A N D WO U LD W R ITE IT D OW N
separate the good from the great. And it takes very little effort. You just
have to genuinely care and genuinely be grateful. I M M E D I ATE LY, N O M AT TE R H OW
And it works the other way too. I will often reach out to many bars I
visit after the fact thanking them for their hospitality and taken great B U SY TH E Y W E R E .
care of me/us etc. I cannot recommend these two actions enough. So I’ll
finish by posing this question to all of you and be honest: When was the
last time you either thanked someone for coming in (not just as they’re
walking out the door but a sincere note like above) or you thanked
someone or their team for hosting you? Make it a daily part of your
routine, starting now.
p42
COME TOGETHER.
SYDNEY 18 › 21
BAR WEEK SEPT.
2021.
SYDNEY
30 EVENTS. BARWEEK.
04 DAYS. COM.AU
#SBW2021 australianbartender.com.au
p43
Trend
Vale: The Bowery

A tribute to one of Brisbane’s most iconic cocktail bars
By Dan Gregory, GM, Goodfellas Group, Brisbane
The family and I are write for a bar I am glad I had the chance to Mat Hewitt, Barry Chalmers, Nathen Beasley,
settling back into Brisbane tend. Lost now to history and stories of the Kat Wasiel, Ryan Lane... The list goes on, but I
very well, still acclimatising past… I am of course speaking of The Bowery. only have so much space to write! Sitting at
from a warm 17°C Hobart Sadly, The Bowery mixed its last cocktail on that bar during the week, with live jazz and a
to a very sweaty 37°C. With January 26, 2020 but will never be forgotten. Brooklyn in hand was my happy place. Being
all our belongings Stephanie Canfell and Cam Birt’s baby came to situated in the middle of Fortitude Valley, the
temporarily in storage, I life back in late 2003 and would become one cool interior of The Bowery was refuge for
haven’t had my books on hand to read, so I was of the most important bars not just for many from what sometimes felt like the wild
a bit stumped for inspiration this month. But Brisbane’s drinking scene but Australia’s as west of this crazy part of town.
one afternoon, whisky in hand, I was looking well. With a list of phenomenal bartenders who I was incredibly lucky to have had an
through some old boxes I have had stored at have graced this room over the years, it was a opportunity to manage The Bowery back in
my parent’s place. I stumbled across an old must place to be. You could’ve at one time or
cocktail menu I had the privilege of helping to other sat in front of Perry Scott, Anthony Friel, >
p44
2009, and I can safely say this is the reason

I’ve gone on to work in the places I have. When
it came time for me to write a new menu, I took
taking the task very seriously as there were a
lot of eyes watching to see where this young
lad would take it. I had the help of a gentleman
and one of my first mentors ‘The Reverend’
Shay Leighton, who was already a veteran of
the bar and knew the legacy of past
bartenders and drinks. We wanted the menu to
FAV O U R IT
have history, information about ingredients,
showcase house drinks of the past and
forgotten classics which at the time was still a
thing. I remember holding the menu for the
first time, in awe of how amazing it felt in my
hands thanks to Steph’s amazing dedication to
ES
detail, design, printing and the stock she used.

And we hit the nail on the head, coming out of
that year with Best Cocktail List at the
Australian Bar Awards and Gourmet Traveller.
SWEET
We had 500 printed, I sent a few out to people

and still have a few in my possession and if you
were lucky enough to sneak one out I hope it
became a good toilet read.
MESHA
I wanted to showcase two drinks from this Created by B
menu, the first is from an industry legend and arry Chalmer
at Lonsdale s, UK Bartend
House for T er of the Year
one of my favourite people who I had the he Bowery in , 2005,
chance to work with a few years down the 2004.
track, Mr Barry Chalmers. Anyone who visited
SOUR
The Bowery would know the Mesha as it was IN G R E D IE N T

pretty much on every menu from 2004 and on S
the opening menu at Eau de Vie Sydney, which Wyborowa appl
e vodka
Chalmers helped open. I moved to Eau de Vie
apple liqueur
after I left The Bowery, it was Barry’s final
weeks and I asked him for a Mesha as I liked lime juice
the drink. He was confused at first and pineapple juice
thought I was taking the piss as the Mesha is a
B IT T E R
raspberries
crowd pleaser, a drink you can down before
you can tap your card to pay. Not a typical falernum
highbrow bartender drink, but I loved it.
The second is the Strong Man Cocktail,
created by me and named after the strong method: Rim
man of the infamous Bowery Boys, one of the a chilled martin
around the ed i glass by runn
gangs who ran the “Five Points” in the mid ge, then rollin ing a lime wed
the drink. g it in cinnam ge lightly
on sugar in pr
1800’s of New York. A drink that has eparation for
followed me to a few bars after my time Place apple vo
D RY
dka, apple liqu

behind the stick here. A Calvados laced robust Boston eur, lime and
Shaker, then in pineapple juic
sipper that is bold in flavour and gave many freshly made troduce fresh e into a
falernum syru raspberries, al
guests the courage to face Fortitude Valley well with a H p. Shake until lig ong with
awthorn Strain ht pink in colo
on a Friday night after exiting The Bowery. from the pineap er, being care ur. Strain
ple juice to en ful to allow th
ter the glass. e light foam
You’re a lucky person if you had the Serve immedia
chance to visit The Bowery while its doors tely to guests
to begin partie
were still swinging, and if not, please pull s and lighten th
e mood.
STRONG
up a chair at a bar in front of me one day

and I will share some
tall tales.
As Steph and Cam would always
print in the cover of the menus,
“To your health!”. D ID Y O U K N O W
…
That Mesha also
T H E BAC
means teddy bear

$ 16,00
australianbartender.com.au in Polish
st ill
to a ch range.
Strain in h a twist of o
it
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35 –
– page
For the caramel & allspice

syrup in the Strong Man
Cocktail:
Start with 500g of caster
sugar, add a little at
a time to a high sided,
heavy based pot to melt
and make a direct caramel.
You cannot take your eyes
off the sugar, so have
everything measured and
ready to go, pre pour 600ml
water and count out 30
whole all spice. Once the
caramel is a light golden
turn down the heat and add
all spice to toast. Now
being incredibly careful
add the water bit by bit.
Watch out for the hot steam
and make sure it does not
bubble over. Add the rest
of the water and lightly
simmer till all the sugar
has dissolved. Cool, double
strain and bottle.
p46
Explainer
Whisky vs Whiskey
What difference does the ‘e’ make?
Story by Kelvin Low, The Elysian Whisky Bar, Melbourne
You’re browsing the whisky share. In 1879, the four biggest Dublin distillers Prohibition that Scotch whisky surpassed Irish
section of a bottleshop or (John Jameson, William Jameson, George Roe whiskey sales. Since Irish whiskey was more
your backbar, and you and John Power) banded together to produce popular, and considered by many to be better
realise that there are labels a book titled “Truths About Whisky”, to in quality to Scotch whisky, many American
spelled whisky and some denounce the use of grain whiskies in blends, distillers tried to associate their products with
whisk’e’y (with an “e”). It’s arguing that such blends “cannot be called Irish whiskey and therefore adopted the Irish
correct, inconsistent and whisky, and it ought not to be sold under spelling of whiskey.
for the uninitiated, a bit confusing. Generally that name”. Another reason why American distillers
speaking the Irish and Americans spell it as The issue was eventually settled by the spelled it whiskey is because most of the early
whiskey whilst the Scots, Canadians, Indians, 1908 Royal Commission on Whiskey and Other distillers were of Irish background. When Irish
Japanese and most of the other countries Potable Spirits. The commission concluded immigrants started coming into America
around the world spell it without the “e”. Why? that blended whiskies can still be called between 1820 and 1860, they brought with
To answer this question, we have to take a look whisky. Interestingly the Commission spelled them their distilling expertise and also their
at the history of this popular tipple. whiskey with an e in the title but the official Irish spelling of whiskey. Families that had
The word whisky is derived from the Scots report that the British government submitted Scottish background, for example Maker’s
Gaelic uisge beatha or uisce beatha (Irish to parliament was spelled without an e. Mark, kept the Scottish spelling of whisky.
Gaelic), meaning “water of life”. As you can see, This was one of the early instances where Today, most of the Irish use whiskey as a
this debate of which is the right spelling has Irish and Scottish whiskies started to use matter of tradition, where as in Scotland it is a
been around ever since the existence of the different spellings. matter of law to use whisky. Legally you cannot
drink itself. Until the late 19th Century, most of Over the course of the late 19th century, call it Scotch whiskey, only Scotch whisky. The
the world spelled whisky without an e. Even many of the big Irish distillers began to spell rest of the world is free to pick and use either
the Irish distillers (who were the largest whiskey with an e in order to differentiate spelling. The US till today prefers to use
producers of whiskies at that time) were themselves from the Scottish competitors. whiskey (although not exclusively) and the rest
spelling it as whisky. In 1860, the Gladstone But not every distillery adhered to the new of the world pretty much sticks to the Scots
Government passed the Spirits Act that spelling. Paddy, a brand from Cork, did not spelling. Some distilleries in countries that use
allowed whisky blenders to create blends switch their spelling to whiskey until the 1960s. the spelling of whisky can sometimes choose
consisting of grain whisky and single malts. Many other smaller distilleries never changed to brand themselves as whiskey, especially
This allowed the Scotch whisky blenders to the spelling. when the style of whiskey that they are making
create a style of whisky that was similar to Irish In America, a similar evolution of spelling is similar to that of Irish or American whiskey.
whiskeys but cheaper to produce. happened. During the 19th century, most The subject of whisky vs whiskey is one
Obviously, this posed a threat to the Irish American distillers spelled whisky without an interesting debate and one of historical
distillers who owned 70 per cent of the world’s e. In the late 19th century and early part of the significance in the evolution of the world’s
whisky. The Scots were also excellent at 20th century, Irish whiskey was second only to whisky industry. Whatever the spelling might
marketing and packaging, and slowly but Canadian whiskies as the best-selling whisky be, here’s a toast to one of the world’s favourite
steadily made their way into the global market in America. It was not only until after drinks. Slainthe mhath!
p47
Rye Whiskey
Cocktail
Sazerac
• 60ml rye whiskey
• 5ml sugar syrup
• 3 dashes of Peychaud
bitters
• 3 dashes of Angostura
Bitters
• Absinthe for rinse
Absinthe rinse a chilled

coupe
Combine listed ingredients
in a mixing glass and stir
with ice
Strain cocktail into the
prepared coupe and garnish
with lemon peel
Scotch Whisky
Cocktail
Rob Roy
• 40ml scotch whisky
• 30ml sweet vermouth
• 1 dash Angostura
Bitters
• 1 dash orange bitters
• 1 dash whisky barrel
aged bitters
Combine listed ingredients

in a mixing glass and stir
with ice
Strain cocktail into a
chilled coupe
Express oils from an
orange zest and discard
Garnish with brandied
cherries (optional)
The Cloakroom, Melbourne / p.56
kcaBBar.
p50
Trend
The Seven Deadly Sins of

“Insta-tenders”
How not to be featured on @howdoidrinkthis by the duo behind @howdoidrinkthis
We are two disgruntled hospitality workers,

who found ourselves ranting to each other
about the painfully shitty trends we see on
Instagram bartending pages. So we started a
snarky account, featuring the more ridiculous
drinks we’ve seen, and it’s become apparent
that we are not alone in our disdain.
There is definitely an alarming surge of
‘Instatenders’ or ‘Home Mixologists’, who are
skipping over cocktail making 101. We
highlight their flawed creations and provide a
little insight into what we think along the way.
So the next time you go to post a drink to
Instagram, here are some fundamental do’s
and don’ts that will hopefully prevent you from
being featured on the page.
Before we get started we have a quick
caveat. There’s always an exception to every
rule and in this case, it’s Tiki. Tiki gets away
with so much dumb shit, because it gives no
fucks and that’s kind of the magic of it right?
Anyway, half of these rules should just be
followed by “unless it’s Tiki”.
p51
3
Annoying garnishes
1
Look, we ain’t the fun police. If the
drink really demands it, then go
Cubes in coupes ahead, chuck on a little tropical
This is it. This is the OG. The reason we rainforest, complete with baby sloth. I love a Tommy’s or twelve as much as the
started the whole page to begin with. But your giant clouds of sticky fairy floss, next guy, and I don’t want to wake up feeling
Let us start by saying, FUCK CUBES IN entire goddamn vegetables and movie scenes like I’ve deepthroated a switch-blade every
COUPES. Unless you’ve been living under a replicated by tiny lego men can be turfed into time I burp. Balance your drinks properly and
rock, you will have noticed this trend popping a raging dumpster fire where they belong. you’ll never need more than a single shot. Plus,
up in mostly slick Euro-style bars. A beautiful, Basically, if it’s not edible, it better serve a the owners will love you, ‘cause lime juice ain’t
fine crystal coupe, with a clear ice cube in it so purpose other than blocking direct access to cheap these days!
big that it could take down the goddamn my delicious booze. And stop dusting shit on
Titanic. Usually placed in there with a silly little the outside of the glass. It’s messy and dumb.
6
pair of silver tongs.
Firstly, I’m a big fan of my front teeth. They
Drinks for the ‘Gram,
4
aren’t perfect, but I feel like they kind of
complete my look y’know? I see these big old not for service
rocks, slooshing around in there as I get to the Novelty glassware You shouldn’t be putting a drink up
end of the drink, wincing at the thought of it The Simpsons always say it best if you can’t make it in a bar. We have
taking an Olympic ski jumping out the side of don’t they? ‘A single plum, floating in had ‘grammars claiming they make ‘art’, not
the glass to clonk through my front teeth, or brandy, served in a man’s hat.’ Dumb servable drinks… lol. It’s a cocktail guys, not a
the side of that fine crystal glass. serving vessels are a gimmick and the longevity fucking Basquiat masterpiece.
Also, a coupe is the perfect size for a full of their cool factor is non existent. How much This is the cardinal sin of Instagram ‘home
cocktail, roughly 150ml of delicious diluted did your bespoke furry cow hoof vessel cost? bartenders’ who haven’t spent enough time
booze should sit perfectly in there with a nice The answer is undoubtedly - too much. behind the stick. If you can’t make it in a bar,
little finger width washline at the top. That’s If you are one of the glut of people making then you probably can’t make it at home, which
the whole point of the design - pretty neat drinks in those stupid glass birds where you is what you claim the point of your shitty page
huh? Science tells us that the ice cube suck the drink out of its butt, shame on you. I is in the first place.
displaces a whole lot of liquid and honestly, it feel for the poor bar back that has to get into Spending an hour making something pretty
doesn’t matter how delicious that 60ml of the beak with a pipe cleaner each and every for social media isn’t enough, it has to be
cocktail is, I don’t want to fork out $20 for it. time someone orders a ‘Paper Crane’ or smashable! Which brings us to our next point...
This is the quintessential example of whatever you’ve called your super original
something that “looks cool” but makes no twist on a classic. Plus where are you keeping
7
fucking sense when you really unpack it. all this shit? What bar has the space?
Please, just stop. While we’re at it, down with Copa glasses
too. Marketing departments of big brands love Remember the yum
trying to push that shit on us, so start saying Let’s all just remember why we are
2
no. You cannot make a good G&T in them. here in the first place shall we - to
Fact. If we were in Spain where the bartenders facilitate a good time.
Invisible washlines pour gin shots big enough to drown Yao Ming, If your bar requires your guests to sit still in
Oh man, washlines. So often we see a then sure. But even 60mls of spirit turns into a front of a moss filled terrarium while a waiter
beautiful recipe, in gorgeous tonic-heavy watery mess in these bathtubs. blathers the 17 ingredients in the petrichor
glassware, with a thoughtful garnish, Thumbs down. foam at you then I have some bad news for
then filled to the absolute brim, meniscus you… your bar is not fun.
jiggling aggressively above the rim. Why?! I’m not saying drinks can’t be complex and
5
Someone’s gonna spill it just by looking at it, interesting, far from it. But they do have to be
then your bartop/tables/expensive velveteen yummy. Not negotiable. Be honest with me -
sofas are going to be sticky at best and Citrus overload how many people have reordered that
water-damaged if you’re unlucky. Ok so this isn’t a “trend” per se, but mushroom and bone broth Manhattan riff?
You are forcing the customer to do the we’ve seen it a lot and it’s a pet peeve If it’s not delicious, then what is the actual
most elegant of all maneuvers - the ol’ of ours. If it were up to us, drinks point? Take a step back, look at the weird shit
hands-free schlorp like a pig at a trough, just would have 25ml citrus max, on pain of death. you’re putting in your drink and decide if it’s
so they can get it from the bar to their table. However, we can understand some insecure there for flavour or to stroke your own ego.
Your specs or the glassware need to bar managers don’t trust you to pour anything We pour liquid from one glass into another
change, otherwise we can safely assume you other than full jigger decrements, so 30ml is one, so try not to take yourself too seriously
hate money, or your interior designer. Or both. acceptable… just. But if you have 40ml of lime because trust me honey, nobody else does.
juice, 30ml grapefruit and 60ml pineapple all in
one drink I can only assume you are sponsored
by Gaviscon.
p52
p53
Introducing ...
�
Jacob North
This youngster from Sydney’s Burrow Bar
loves the people in hospo
As told to Amy Spanton
Photography by Christopher Pearce
I’ve been in the hospitality industry for about 7 years. I started off at the casino and then
moved over to a bar in Newtown. I did about six or seven months there and then went to
Crows Nest and worked at the Foxtrot. The manager James Zollo was fantastic. I then had a
brief stint at Bistecca and remembered why I preferred bars not restaurants. I really enjoy the
interaction of bar service so I asked Bryce [McDonough] about a position and he said yes.
I’m only 25 but I got started in hospo while I was at uni. I’m still at uni studying a Bachelor
of Arts. I’m not 100 per cent sure that I”ll stay in hospo. I’m only 25 years of age…
I love the bar industry. Honestly I’ve just gotten to meet some really fantastic people and
everyone I’ve worked with have been phenomenal. I met a lot of people that are now a big part
of my life from a variety of different backgrounds. I love that.
The thing that bugs me about hospo is poor operators taking advantage with wage
rorts and mistreatment of staff. I’ve worked somewhere where I’ve seen this and there was a
massive staff turnover. One of my good friends was treated quite poorly. A huge part of this
industry is making great friends and being good to people so this kind of behaviour rubs me
the wrong way
2020 was tough and impacted me in lots of ways. I’d just come back from overseas when
everything shut down and there was a fair amount of financial stress. Bryce and Chau really
helped out. Personally I had a lot of emotional stress dealing with family members who are
immunocompromised and I didn’t see my girfriend for two and a half months during that first
lockdown. It was just one of those things that was really difficult. I was simultaneously really
fortunate - thanks to great bosses and I’m a citizen so I was entitled to financial help – so
many of my friends didn’t have that option.
In the next 12 months I want to work more on my spirits knowledge. I want to improve my
brandies and American whiskies. I’ve been given the job to help improve the beer list at
Burrow. I’m thinking crafty but not too crazy – mostly local stuff. There will be something that
everyone can enjoy.
Right now I’m drinking That Boutique-y Whisky Company Port Charlotte 13 Year Old…
I don’t really drink one thing. I bounce around a lot which is great with over 700 different
bottles at the bar.
There are lots of people in this industry that I admire, or have taught me a great deal.
James Zollo the venue manager at the Foxtrot in Crows Nest taught me the hospitality part of
hospitality – a lot about technique and tasting. Bryce and Chau are awesome, obviously. Tom
Bulmer always has something insightful and helpful to share and I always feel like I learn
around him. Also, VM at Burrow, Lou Deck - his knowledge of classics is encyclopaedic.
If I could have a drink with anyone (alive or dead) it would be either beers with
Bob Hawke or just kind catch up with my mates who I haven’t seen in a long time –
it would also be beers.
p54
In 2018, I met the man himself – Cedric Mendoza whilst he was

Manager Profile doing a guest shift in Grain Bar. Well known in the bar industry for
� being Manhattan’s Head Bartender. Fast forward a few months, he
joined the Grain Bar team and since then we have worked extremely
closely for two years. Across this time, he has taught and technically
Adam Lau trained me, honed in on my skillset whilst encouraging me to break

through barriers and create unique cocktails.
We meet the Assistant Bar Manager I could sit here and list one thousand ways Covid-19 has impacted
my life both positively and negatively. However, I like to look at the
at Grain Bar, Sydney brighter side of things. Initially, when I was stood down due to the
temporary bar closure, I took a step back, found my silver lining and
As told to Amy Spanton started seeing the bigger picture. I had the opportunity to brainstorm
and curate ways to elevate Grain Bar’s service, product and overall
experience when we were ready to re-open.
Photography by Christopher Pearce Throughout this time, I discovered what really brings me joy in life. I read
more, have spent the time learning things I wanted to discover and
devote more quality time to my partner, friends and family.
One of the perks of being a bartender is having the knowledge and

acquired palette to appreciate every spirit for their individual
flavour, taste and notes. Mixing flavours and understanding their
intricacy is one of my favourite things to do behind the bar. It’s quite
When I first started studying hospitality I didn’t know what I was difficult to choose one particular spirit as they each have an important
really getting myself into. It was the versatility of the industry that role when it comes to curating cocktails. It’s like asking a father to
drew me in. Whether you’re aiming to become a successful hotelier, choose who his favourite child is.
owner or entrepreneur, the set of skills you learn across your studies and
practices are adaptable, transformative and can be utilised in many One thing that can be daunting to some is the crazy long hours
ways. working hospo. At times, we can work up to 12-14 hours a day. And then
back that up again the following day. But once you step foot into a
I found myself in a hotel in Melbourne for my first industry buzzing bar, it makes it all worth it. It’s fun, enjoyable and rewarding
placement and it was here I fell in love with the industry, the people, the because I am doing something that I love and am so passionate about.
job, passion and way of life. As a young boy, I never imagined working in Some may call it a love-hate relationship, but the love is definitely
a hotel overseas, surrounded by amazing opportunities – but here I am. stronger.
To me, bartending is one of the most phenomenal and transformative
career’s and was the best decision I’ve made to date. It’s important to me to have short-term and long-term goals.
Ideally, accomplishing my short-term goals should lead me to my future
In 2017 I joined Four Seasons Hotel Sydney in the restaurant, Mode aspirations. In saying so, I don’t set goals that can limit myself as you
Kitchen & Bar. Throughout my time, I would walk past Grain Bar and be never know when opportunity will come knocking. For the time being, I
drawn in by the energy and atmosphere beaming from it. I loved the am focusing on my technique, skills and knowledge of the industry –
buzz and excitement around the bar scene, especially what the bar building upon what I have already learnt to ensure I have a solid
represented. A few years later, an opportunity arose for me to join the foundation, making me ready for the next step.
team at Grain Bar and I have never looked back.
If I could have a drink with someone (alive or dead) It would be
Bartending is a universal language. Great hospitality can be found in Harry Craddock. I imagine myself sitting down with him in the Savoy in
all corners of the world and the opportunity to travel is endless. The London, enjoying one of his famous cocktails – White Lady. The first
diversity, community and strength of the industry is undeniable. In 2019, cocktail book I read was his ‘Savoy Cocktail Book’ and I have looked up
I had the opportunity to travel to China for a week of guest shift’s and to him ever since. I relate to him quite often, as he too was a Hotel
Italy for a global cocktail competition. It is fascinating that in the Bartender. I would love to pick his brain about the differences between
industry we all speak the same language no matter who you are and hotel bars in the 20s and 30s, the challenges he overcame and his
where you come from. perception of the bar world today. Would be some pretty interesting
stuff!
Undoubtedly, my parents have been my mentors and they have .
inspired me. From a young age, they instilled a set of ethics and values Whilst 2020 has been a challenging and uncertain year for us all
that have shaped me into who I am today. They taught me the – the community and spirit within each of us is tremendous and goes
importance of passion, hard work and determination. One thing they told without saying, will be what gets us all through it together. And don’t
me that has stayed with me forever – ‘it’s not about the job itself, it’s the forget to celebrate friendship and conviviality with those near and far
attitude you bring that will set you apart. Always be humble, ego will from you. Stay strong, good luck and let’s see what amazing things we
engulf you.’ can create in 2021.
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TH E F I R S T C O C K TA I L B O O K I R E A D WAS
[H A R RY C R A D D O C K ’ S] ‘ SAVOY C O C K TA I L B O O K ’
A N D I H AV E LO O K E D U P TO H I M E V E R S I N C E .
I R E L ATE TO H I M Q U ITE O F TE N , AS H E TO O WAS
A H OTE L BA R TE N D E R .
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Bar Profile
�
The
Cloakroom
Bar,
Melbourne
A clothing tailor
and a bar in one
Level 46, 308-320 City Rd, Melbourne

thecloakroom.co
Dual-purpose bars are not a new concept. We

have had record store bars, barbershop bars
and even places where you can get a blow-dry
and drink Champagne. But this global concept
of a tailor and bar in one has now arrived in
Melbourne. So prepare to be cuffed and
pinned while you enjoy some classic
cocktailing with an epic view over the
Melbourne city skyline.
Situated on the 46th floor of one of the
city’s newest skyscrapers The Cloakroom is
the brainchild of men’s tailoring business of
the same name. Helmed by award-winning
bartender, Tony Huang - formerly with
Lui Bar at Shannon Bennett’s Vue de Monde -
the intimate and atmospheric venue is
designed to “distil the essence of tailoring into
a cocktail bar,” according to The Cloakroom
co-founder, Andrew Byrne.
Founded in Brisbane in 2007 and
specialising in made to measure suiting
(tailored in Japan), The Cloakroom now has
stores in Brisbane, Tokyo’s Ginza district
and Montreal in Canada, with a dual tailoring
and bar concept in Southbank’s new
Shadow Play tower the latest addition to
the menswear empire.
The success of The Cloakroom’s original
cocktail bar adjacent to its Montreal store
prompted the team to lock in a similar concept
>
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for the company’s Melbourne debut, with a

focus on making drinks on a made-to order
basis that reflects the company’s philosophy
when it comes to suiting. “Tailoring is a
conversational thing - we hone our
understanding of the customer and his
personal requirements over conversations and
the bar is very similar in this regard,” says
Byrne. “A bartender will have a conversation
about why you’re here and how you’re feeling,
and make a drink to your liking.”
Serving bespoke drinks crafted from high
quality spirits and fresh ingredients, The
Cloakroom Bar also offers a tightly edited
seasonal menu of bar snacks in the 40-seat
space with panoramic views of the Melbourne
skyline. The bar and tailoring studio have been
designed by Melbourne architect Dion Hall
(formerly with Projects of Imagination) who is
responsible for Edwin Wine Bar and Cellar on
the ground floor of Shadow Play, and is
currently working on a revitalisation of the
iconic Grandmaster Records studio in Los
Angeles in partnership with EP & LP. “The
Cloakroom Bar and tailor share material and
tonal qualities focused to the furniture and
objects and while the views are panoramic and
vast, the interior footprint is quite intimate,”
says Hall of his work.
Collaborations with Australian creatives
feature throughout the space - including a
digital animation artwork by Brooklyn-based
Australian artist Sophia Hanover in the
entrance foyer with a second installation in
development for the main interior space of the
bar. Custom ceramic tables have been created
by Melbourne artist, Shari Lowndes, and the
store opening marks the debut of bespoke
seating and furniture by Hall in partnership
with Hugh Makin.
“Melbournians are sophisticated in their
taste with a real appreciation of quality and
style that touches everything from fashion and
art to food and cocktails,” says Byrne.
Traditional notions of a “gentleman’s club”
have been eschewed in favour of custom
contemporary furniture and mirrors, as well as
a central “window display” style space for
rotating art installations that separates the
tailoring studio from the bar.
This dual-concept tailoring studio and
cocktail bar is something The Cloakroom team
is particulary proud of.
“Our philosophy as a business is that we
‘distil things to the point of perfection’ and this
governs our decision making for everything we
do,” says Byrne.
p59
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International Bar Profile

�
Jigger & Pony, Singapore

Asia’s best bar is all about convivial hospitality
As told to Amy Spanton
Amara Singapore,
165 Tanjong Pagar Road, Singapore
According to the World’s 50 Best this is Asia’s

Best Bar and the World’s 9th Best Bar. So take
note folks as they’re clearly doing something
right. With a philosophy of fun, great drinks
and a nurturing team environment, this is a
truly international bar, but without that
late-night clubby vibe you often find in
bustling towns like Singapore. Check out the
magazine-style menu for some amusing
reading and then try the Crystal Ramos Gin
Fizz for a clever twist on a classic, or a punch
bowl with a few friends. It also has an
interesting collection of non-alcoholic drinks
for the sober-curious. Add to that some great
bar food and there is something for everyone
at Jigger & Pony.
We picked the brains of owners Gan Guo Yi
and Indra Kanton to find out more about this
bar, its recent move and all the accolades it
has received.
>
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Give us a little bit of background on the venue.

Jigger & Pony started in May 2012 by co-founders Gan Guo Yi and Indra
Kantono and was inspired by their travels and love for cocktails. The bar
was previously located on Amoy Street. In 2018, the bar relocated to a
bigger space in Amara Hotel.
Since its opening, Jigger & Pony championed the movement of
bringing back classic cocktails in Singapore. Named after the double-
coned measuring device used by bartenders to accurately pour out
spirits, Jigger & Pony pays tribute to the 19th century, when cocktail
recipes were listed in “jiggers” and “ponies”. As one of the pioneers in
this city’s fast-growing cocktail industry, we are continuously working
hard to better ourselves and our commitment to our key tenets- W E PR I D E O U R S E LV E S AS A BA R
convivial hospitality, craftsmanship and inventive concepts.
TH AT D O E S N OT H AV E A N Y
Jigger & Pony has won lots of awards. Why do you think this is?
We are very thankful for all the awards we have gotten because it is a A I R S , O N LY A S H OT O F F L A I R
true testament to the effort and hard work the team has put in these
past few years. I N TE R M S O F F R I E N D LI N E S S
There are a few areas that we feel our team has worked hard to excel
in and has probably contributed to the recognition we have gotten AND RESPONSIVENESS FROM
recently.
Our bartenders are confident in the knowledge of cocktails as well as TH E I NT U ITI V E S TA F F.
its history and culture. Combined with their skill and a passion to serve,
the solid team at Jigger & Pony conjures an allure of creating memorable
drinking experiences that keeps drawing people back.
The bar moved locations in 2018, and is now at the Amara Hotel…
why? and did much change with the move?
The main reason we relocated to our current location is that we wanted
to build a bar with a larger seating capacity with a 2-storey format. We
also wanted to stay in the heart of the city and we always saw our new
location in Amara Hotel as being the “Living Room of the City” where our
guests can come in for a drink and relax and feel completely at home.
At our new location, we can also accommodate many more guests.
We used to turn down people because of our limited seating capacity
but with a bigger bar, it means you are able to create more seating
configurations and accommodate more guests at any one point of time.
believe that is important to offer an element of comfort to the guests.
The late-night bar gets credit for its laidback speakeasy style. Is Even our most creative and innovative drinks are presented in a way that
that the ethos? our customers can find something familiar that they can relate to.
At Jigger & Pony, we are best known for our convivial hospitality.
Convivial means “with life”, a word derived from the Latin convīvium to How do you choose your staff?
mean “a feast”. It best describes our outlets that are always lively and Jigger & Pony team is extremely diverse. We think that staff from
with high energy. different backgrounds and nationalities adds value to the team. When
We pride ourselves as a bar that does not have any airs, only a shot of hiring, rather than looking for a particular set of skills, we focus on how
flair in terms of friendliness and responsiveness from the intuitive staff, we think the candidate can fit in our company values and ethics.
who are observant and quick on their feet. We always strive to provide We also take pride in the way we introduce new members to the
our guests with the most comfortable experience with their friends and team. Regardless of whether one joins as a professional who has been in
loved ones. the industry for many years or if they are fresh and new to the industry,
we place great emphasis to get everyone aligned to our company values
Tell us about your drinks policy/ drinks list? with our comprehensive training programmes.
Our menu is presented in the form of a magazine, when developing the
menu we start from the title, the “theme” that will be the focus of the What’s your hope when a customer leaves your venue?
menu. For example our current menu, The Decade Ahead, is a journey That the guest had a memorable experience and will come back soon.
through what we hope to see happening in the drinks word in the future. We always strive to build long lasting relationships with our customers,
The magazine format allows us to provide plenty of information and and believe that we can achieve so by providing a place where people
content for the guests to enjoy and presents the drinks in a fresh but find comfort, share happiness and forge friendship.
sophisticated way.
The style of drinks at Jigger & Pony is rooted in classic cocktails, we How has the COVID experience impact the bar/ staff etc?
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COVID has changed the way we operate: reduced opening time and Above & left: The Jigger
capacity, social distancing... but it has also been a learning opportunity. & Pony Team
During circuit breaker for example, the team shifted operation from dine
in only to delivery and takeaway only, developing new skills that were
later useful to create and launch new projects such as PONY, our bottled
cocktail brand. After noticing the demand for cocktails that can be
enjoyed in the comfort of one’s home, we launched PONY, our new
bottled cocktail brand, handcrafted by the bartenders at Jigger & Pony.
What are your hopes for 2021.

This pandemic has really let us see how important relationships and
connections are. Many people are spending more time and effort on
improving their relationships with one another. We hope that in 2021, as
we slowly move towards a more relationship-driven economy, we can
continue being a bar where everyone chooses to gather and spend time
with each other and continue our efforts to bring the community and
industry together.
As we launched our new bottled cocktail label, PONY this year, we
hope that 2021 continues to be a great year of innovation for us as we
grow the brand and launch new initiatives and projects. Last but
definitely not the least, we are also looking forward to reconnecting with
the global cocktail industry and community in 2021.
p64
BACK BAR.
Staffies.
kartik davray @ Sonofbeer, Akiba Charlie Parker’s Paddington
Friday nights at Double Deuce look like this The Team at Akiba in Canberra
australianbartender
#btstaffies ozbartendermag
p65
Soumi, Beirut Bunker Bar, Canberra
Alissa & Aryanne @ The Highball Express,Canberra
Simon and Soumi @ Beirut Bunker Bar
The Brooklyn Standard crew do Halloween
Cobbler Team rock the aviators in Brisbane Amy, Dave, Pete & Petr @ The Cumberland
Enjoy BACARDÍ Rum Responsibly.
BACARDÍ, ITS TRADE DRESS AND THE BAT DEVICE ARE TRADEMARKS OF BACARDÍ & COMPANY LIMITED.
SHARE WITH THOSE OF LEGAL DRINKING AGE ONLY.
ALIVE WITH FRESHNESS
DISTILLED WITH WHOLE FRESH FRUIT, NE V ER DRIED PEEL

Australian Bartender - March 2021

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A U S T R A L I A N

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The Rail. Vodka Renaissance by Jenna Hemsworth

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On this month’s cover:

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Just 1400 bottles of lees in a previous life as a

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Speakeasy backs enables the participants to open

We’ll keep you posted as

Norman ‘Sailor Jerry’ Collins:

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Cocktail recipe courtesy of

Adapted from Gary Regan’s

Adapted from Salvatore

Cocktail recipe courtesy

The Vodka Drink

Burrow Bar, Sydney

Vodka Tasting Notes

Suntory HAKU Vodka 666 Pure Tasmanian Vodka

Mixing with the best –

By Trish Brew like turning a Hemmingway Daiquiri into a

Treuse and Hospitality

Burrow Bar, Sydney

Story by Amy Spanton Photography by Christopher Pearce

In recent years, the Spritz has become a SECOND:

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Rosa Rosa Ro-oo-sa Spritz

Burrow Bar, Sydney

Ashley Miller, Blue Kahunas,

Adding the fizz

Fever Tree Premium

PS Soda Smoked Lemonade

13. 14. 15.

10. 11. 12.

YEAST YEAST YEAST YEAST YEAST YEAST

YEAST YEAST YEAST YEAST YEAST YEAST

One of the unfortunate

Yeast first originated hundreds of millions

TH E S PE C TR U M O F A LE S I S VAS T, TAS TE S TO N E & WO O D PAC I F I C A LE

I’ve been asked countless times, “Why did Dante win

Vale: The Bowery

2009, and I can safely say this is the reason

detail, design, printing and the stock she used.

We had 500 printed, I sent a few out to people

The Bowery would know the Mesha as it was IN G R E D IE N T

dka, apple liqu

up a chair at a bar in front of me one day

means teddy bear

For the caramel & allspice