RV Electrical Basics for many Thor and other brand motorhomes - Always Use Extreme

Caution with Electricity! Both 110VAC and 12VDC is dangerous!

Our RV’s have two types of electrical power. 12 volt dc (12vdc) and 110 volt ac (110vac).

12vdc devices include lights, water pump, slide motors, etc. here is the list from the fuse panel on a
Hurricane 32N for reference:

110vac devices include tv’s, refrigerators, hot water heaters,

microwaves, etc. Here is a sample list of 110vac circuits with the
exception of the inside and outside refrigerators:

There are three main sources of power for electrical devices in the motorhome (MH): shore power
(110vac), generator power (110vac) and battery power (12vac). Some people add solar systems to
help keep the battery charged when other sources are not available or preferred.

There are many other electrical components in our MH’s.

Three of the main ones that manage the electrical systems are:

- Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) – this is typically under the bed and switches the 110vac
supply to the MH between shore and generator power.
- Converter/Charger – this device converts power from either 110vac source to 12vdc to run
your 12vdc devices and at the same time charges or maintains your house battery(s) with the
integral 3-stage charger. It is typically located near the ATS and is wired to the output of the
ATS.
- Inverter – this device inverts the 12vdc power from your coach batteries to 110vac so that you
can run a limited number of 110vac devices when not on shore or generator power. Typically,
only the refrig, tv(s), and a very limited number of 110vac outlets are connected to the
inverter. My residential refrig will draw down the batteries within a couple of hours unless I
am driving in which case the alternator keeps the batteries up. When you are on either shore
or generator power, there is no need for the inverter to be on although some owners choose
to leave it on all the time.

A fourth device worth mentioning is the main engine’s alternator. In addition to keeping the chassis
battery charged while running, the alternator will charge the house batteries, when needed, through a
battery isolation system (also includes the emergency start switch). These systems may be a BIRD or a
BIM depending on model year. If your engine alternator is not charging your house batteries when
driving, then your BIRD or BIM may not be working correctly. Also, the relay in this system is a
common failure.
Some devices run off of more than one power source and many require two sources to operate. An
example is your air conditioners. They require 110vac to run the compressor and fan but also require
12vac to power the thermostat and control board. Control board 12vdc for the A/C unit(s) is supplied
from the furnace controls and is on the furnace or appliances fuse. Another example is a dual source
refrigerator which can run off of 110vac or propane but also requires 12vdc for control. Same for the
hot water heater.

Your MH will have at least one GFCI receptacle (outlet) often in the bathroom and like your home,
other outlets that can get wet are on that circuit(s). If outlets aren’t working, this is a good place to
start. A leaky outside outlet is a common culprit for a tripped GFCI.

There is a Use/Store power switch (or main power or salesman switch) typically by the door. Your
house batteries will not charge if this is on Store or Off and your 12vdc devices won’t work. Even if on
Store, there are small electrical loads that can drain your batteries. In storage, some people stay
connected to 110vac and leave the switch in Use, some connect a battery tender and switch in Store,
some remove the batteries, some trip the breakers, and some install an aftermarket disconnect.
Whatever you choose, keep your batteries from discharging over 50% or their life will be decreased.

There are many, many fuses and breakers in the MH. Some are easy to find and some are very well
hidden. I suggest that you familiarize yourself with as many of them as possible.

In addition to the fuse panel under the bed, there is one under the driver’s side of the dash. There is
also one under the hood.

Download a copy of the Ford F53 Chassis manual for your model year. You should be able to find it on
a Ford site by Googling it and the under hood fuse list is in there.

Valuable advice that I received and will pass along: register with your VIN number on the Thor Owners
Login page and see what documentation is there. My 2016 has a pdf manual for almost every device
installed and a number of builder layouts and schematics. If they are not there for your MH, email
Thor with your VIN and ask them to send them or add them. It may take a couple of weeks, but my
experience with them has been good.

These MH’s shake, rattle and roll. Wires can loosen and loose connections can be dangerous. You
can’t be too cautious and if something’s not working right, fix it!