Pastry Arts

PASTRY | BAKING | CHOCOLATE | BREAD | FROZEN

SPRING 2019 · ISSUE 3

Crossroads Peter Yuen

Where Savory Pursuing the
Meets Sweet Perfect Croissant

—
Modern
eMilY
+
soufflé
A Blood Orange
luChetti
On Professional
Freeform Delight
Growth & Reflection

Jen
Yee
 L’ÉCOLE VALRHONA BROOKLYN
This year, Valrhona’s worldwide Pastry and Chocolate Schools, L’ÉCOLE VALRHONA,
celebrates 30 years of sharing, passion, expertise, and innovation. For 30 years, l’École
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Brooklyn for unforgettable, hands-on and intimate learning experiences.

MARCH JUNE OCTOBER

11–13 PANNING & 4–5 TASTES & VARIATIONS 7–9 INSPIRATION FROM
CHOCOLATE TREATS ON VIENNOISERIE NEW SWEET TO SAVORY
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N E W ICE CREAM & GELATO BONBONS N E W PANETTONE & TEA TIME
Chef Christophe Domange Chef Philippe Givre Chef Oriol Balaguer
Chef Rémi Montagne 25–26 MODERN BUFFET 21–23 BACHOUR MIAMI
25–27 ARTISTIC CHOCOLATE Chef Sarah Tibbetts N E W STYLES
SHOWPIECES Chef Antonio Bachour
Chef Stéphane Tréand AUGUST
21–23 MOLDED CHOCOLATE
APRIL 5–7 PLATED DESSERTS & BONBONS
PETITS GÂTEAUX Chef Derek Poirier
2–3 NEW LIFESTYLE Chef Patrice Demers
NEW & PASTRY TRENDS NOVEMBER
Chef Sarah Tibbetts 19–21 MOLDED CHOCOLATE
BONBONS
4–6 PASTRY STYLES BY
16–17 INTRODUCTION Chef Derek Poirier
NEW YANN DUYTSCHE
TO CHOCOLATE Chef Yann Duytsche
Chef Paul Saiphet SEPTEMBER
MAY 9–11 PLATED DESSERTS
N E W BY GHAYA OLIVEIRA
13–16 VALRHONA’S VISION: Chef Ghaya Oliveira
N E W FROM TRADITION Off-site course.
TO INNOVATION 16–18 UNVEILING MODERN Visit us.valrhona.com
Chef Philippe Givre PÂTISSERIE for details.
Chef Derek Poirier Chef William Werner
20–22 PANNING &
CHOCOLATE TREATS FOR MORE
Chef Nicolas Botomisy 23–25 CHOCOLATE SHOWPIECE INFORMATION
N E W & ENTREMET WITH
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FRANCE
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@ValrhonaUSA #ValrhonaUSA #EcoleValrhonaBK

Contents
Features

16 66
16
Emily Luchetti
On Professional Growth & Reflection

48
Jen Yee
Following Her Palate & Instincts

66
Peter Yuen
Pursuing the Perfect Croissant
48
Pastry Arts 3
Contents
10 88 78
Warm Apple
Pomegranate Tart
A Recipe by Deborah Racicot

84
Citrus Pavlova
A Recipe by Angel Betancourt
36 96 88
Coconut Matcha
A Recipe by Robert Nieto

92
Chocolate Pistachio Bar
A Recipe by Renee Cade

10 96
Pastry Virtuosity: Freeform Blood
Cake Shake Theory Orange Soufflé
Column by Jimmy MacMillan Technique by Modernist Pantry
26 108
Crossroads Places
Where Savory Meets Sweet
- Ginger Elizabeth Chocolates
30 - Patisserie 46 & Rose Street Patisserie
Business Bites - Pretty Cool Ice Cream
Owners Share Challenges & Advice 120
36 Events for Chefs
Savoring La Dolce Vita What 2019 Has In-Store
New Italian Outposts in New York

42
New & Notable
Latest Products, Equipment & Events

58
Irish Soda Bread
A Sweet & Simple Bread by Susan Lagalle

Pastry Arts 5
O B S E S S E D W I T H F L AVO R A N D FA I T H F U L TO C R A F T, W E H A N D S E L E C T
T H E F I N E ST C AC AO, PASS D OW N T I M E - H O N O R E D R E C I P E S , A N D
T I R E L E S S LY I N N O VAT E O U R T E C H N I Q U E S . 1 5 0 Y E A R S I S N ’ T A M A R K
O F O U R L O N G E V I T Y. I T ’ S A T E S TA M E N T T O O U R P A S S I O N .

G U I T TA R D.C O M / 1 5 0
 Pastry mArts
ag azin e
Advisory Board
Pastry Arts Magazine
151 N. Maitland Ave #947511
Maitland, FL 32751
Email: contact@pastryartsmag.com
Website: pastryartsmag.com
Andreas Galliker
EDITORIAL Andreas Galliker is the Senior Vice-President of Innovation and Product
Editor-in-Chief Development at Albert Uster Imports in Gaithersburg, Maryland.
Shawn Wenner
Managing Editor
Tish Boyle
Staff Writers
Meryle Evans Biagio Settepani
Jenna Rimensnyder Chef Settepani is a Certified Master Baker who owns and operates two
Bruno Bakery outlets in Staten Island, and has won many accolades
Contributors
Jimmy MacMillan, Robert Wemischner, and medals over his long pastry career.
Robert Nieto, Susan Lagalle, Brian Cazaneuve,
Angel Betancourt, Deborah Racicot, Scott Geurin,
Derek Bissonnette, Renee Cade
Cover
Jen Yee Francois Payard
Cover Photographer Francois Payard owned and operated Payard Patisserie until 2009,
Andrew Thomas Lee and has won many awards such as ‘Pastry Chef of the Year’ by the
James Beard Foundation, Medal of Honor by the French government,
CREATIVE and selection as a member of Relais Desserts International.
Graphic Designer
Rusdi Saleh

BUSINESS
President
Shawn Wenner
Jacquy Pfeiffer
Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer is the co-founder of the prestigious French Pastry
Publisher School in Chicago. He has won numerous awards and honors,
Jeff Dryfoos including the National Order of the Legion of Honor in France, and a
James Beard Award for his cookbook, The Art of French Pastry. He was
ADVERTISING also the subject of the Kings of Pastry documentary film.
For advertising availability & rates, contact Jeff Dryfoos at
SALES@PASTRYARTSMAG.COM

The opinions of columnists and contributors are their own.

Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement
by Pastry Arts Magazine and/or Rennew Media, LLC. Norman Love
Sources are considered reliable and information is verified Norman Love is an internationally acclaimed pastry chef and chocolatier,
as much as possible, however, inaccuracies may occur and and the founder/owner of Norman Love Confections. Norman Love
readers should use the information at their own risk. Links owns and operates four chocolate salons in Southwest Florida and
embedded within the publication may be affiliate links, ships signature chocolates and specialty products around the country.
which means Pastry Arts Magazine will earn a commission
at no additional cost to our readers. No part of this
magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the
expressed consent of Rennew Media, LLC. For advertising
information, letters to the editor, or submission inquiries,
please email: contact@pastryartsmag.com.
Susan Notter
Pastry Arts Magazine Chef Notter’s international work experience led to being an instructor
Published by Rennew Media, LLC and co-owner of The International School of Confectionery Arts for
© Copyright 2018, Rennew Media, LLC many years. She has resided in the USA since 1992, and is currently
All Rights Reserved the USA Sales Professional for Max Felchlin AG, Switzerland.

Pastry Arts 7
Editor’s
Note

L
ast fall, in the first issue of Pastry Arts Magazine,
I briefly explained our vision for the future.
More than just a “magazine,” we planned to build
a full-blown multimedia platform for pastry and baking
professionals with multiple resources – magazine, podcast,
video content, job board, etc. That said, we are thrilled to launch the
official Pastry Arts Magazine Podcast this month. Hosted by Tish Boyle,
and featuring guests like Ron Ben-Israel, Emily Luchetti, Jason Licker,
Jen Yee and more, we hope the podcast becomes a staple resource
for you. Next up is our video content – more to follow on that soon.
Also, included in this issue, we are excited to introduce our new
“Business Bites” column. After hearing from 1500+ readers through
our survey, we discovered an overwhelming majority dream of one
day owning their own business, so this new column will cover business
concepts and advice in hopes of inching aspiring entrepreneurs
toward their goal.
Finally, we are extremely honored to become official media
partners of some great events this year. From the Pastry Plus
Conference held by the International Culinary Center in New York
to the new International Artisan Bakery Expo (IABE) and industry-
leading International Baking Industry Expo (IBIE) in Las Vegas, these
events push the industry forward by supporting companies and
professionals alike, which aligns perfectly with our mission. As such,
we encourage you to review the events section in this issue for more
information about attending.
As always, we hope you enjoy the latest issue of Pastry Arts
Magazine!

Sincerely,

Shawn Wenner
Editor-in-Chief

Pastry Arts 9
Pastry Virtuosity

Cake Shake
Theory
By Jimmy MacMillan

10 Pastry Arts
I
Seen everywhere from small pubs, chain
restaurants and fast food establishments, the
cake shake is so over-the-top and decadent,
one can’t help but be curious. For pastry chefs,
the attraction of cake shakes is that there is an
audience of customers that love these items. In
this article, we will explore the theory behind
pairing the cake, the shake and the explosive
garnishment of this dessert.
At its core, a cake shake is a decorated
glass, a blended shake with ice cream, beer
t’s exciting that and other ingredients, and a cake slice. The
glass is then decorated with buttercream and
desserts in the United candy, cookies, and other décor pieces. Much
of what can be criticized about cake shakes is
that the individual garnishes may be attractive
States have been and delicious, but often they seem gratuitous
and thrown on randomly. This can also be said
improving drastically for the elements that top the actual cake slice.
The cake slice should be made from
over recent years. scratch, kept fresh and made with high quality
ingredients. Since cake shakes are an extravagant
It’s hard to ignore offering, anything is fair game: glitter, chocolate
pieces, crisp pearls, candy, etc. Perhaps the
biggest challenge with cake shakes is to resist
the momentum of adding these items just to get a ‘wow’, without
considering the overall theme or design. We use
cupcakes, doughnuts the best quality ingredients and custom-made
décor pieces to maximize the artistry of the cake
and viral items such as shake. Just like a plated dessert!
Cake shakes have a built-in vertical
the cake shake! Using opportunity, so use supports like straws,
skewers, and picks to reach for the sky. The

our ‘pastry mind’ we design of the assembly is very important. We

arrange the top decorative elements like we
would a child’s pop-up book – layering each
can apply the same item to create depth and dimension. Stability is
important, so we build the top assemblage as if
skills and artistry as we could lift the cake and everything off, and it
would remain intact.
we would for a plated Included are some of our most successful
pairings. Use the photos as a guide to see

dessert to a cake shake how we applied the above insight to create

interesting beverage pairings, designs with
overall theme, and visual appeal with ample
composition. height and stunning presentation.

Pastry Arts 11
 S’mores Campfire
Cake Shake
Working with a popular combination such as
S’mores can be redundant, so we stayed close
to home using the marshmallows, graham
crackers and chocolate from our childhood.
The cake is chocolate espresso layered
with house-made marshmallow fluff and
white buttercream. The chocolate flavor of
Young’s Double Chocolate Stout is a natural
complement to the chocolate syrup, vanilla
ice cream, and marshmallow fluff. The top
assembly plays with the geometry of the
cake (triangle), whole graham cracker (large
rectangle), chocolate bar (smaller rectangle),
and burnt marshmallows (cylinders). A colorful
‘lit pick’ flame adds red, yellow and orange to
the otherwise muted s’mores colors, and the
flame brings action to the cake shake.

S’mores Campfire Cake Shake with Young’s Double

Candyland Cake Shake with Framboise & Raspberry Cake

Candy Land Cake Shake

In honor of National Candy Month, we ran this
Candy Land Cake Shake featuring Lindeman’s
Framboise, a raspberry vanilla ice cream shake,
berry layer cake and featured nostalgic favorites
nerds, swirl lollipops and candy necklaces. The
framboise and berry flavors are reminiscent of
the flavor of a candy necklace, and the colors
we lifted off the Candyland game board.

12 Pastry Arts
 Pumpkin Pie with
Gingersnap Cookies
& O’Fallon Vanilla
Pumpkin Beer

Rough Cider
with Apple Pie &
Hennessey

Pumpkin Pie Cake Shake

Another variation is the Pumpkin Pie Cake
Shake made with Great Lakes oatmeal stout,
vanilla ice cream, pumpkin pie slice, caramel,
whipped cream, vanilla butter cream and
gingersnap cookies. The top is garnished with
a milk chocolate leaf maple leaf. To avoid a
drab presentation, Thanksgiving colors were
brought in by adding orange crunchies to the
outside of the glass green chevron stripes to
sip the shake. The spice of the beer matches
the traditional pumpkin pie, and extra is
added when blended, so every sip tastes like
pumpkin pie.
rough Cider
A simple variation on the cake shake, diners
enjoyed our Rough Cider, a Hennessey-spiked
cider cocktail made with our mulled cider
(juniper berries, cinnamon, cloves, orange peel)
and topped with fresh apple pie, whipped
cream, caramel and cinnamon sticks. We
switched out our usual glass for a glass mug to
complement the ‘rough’ theme and supported
the warm apple pie slice with cinnamon sticks.

Pastry Arts 13
Bananza Cake Shake with Banana Beer,
Malted Milk Balls & Gold
Bananza Cake Shake
Our most recent offering is the Bananza Cake
Shake, made with banana bread beer, malted
milk balls, banana chips and vanilla ice cream.
The cake is also banana and topped with
chocolate stars and streamers. Gold glitter
and gold crisp pearls help complete the look.
We chose to work with banana because it’s a
yellow fruit, as an elaboration on the yellow
color of the beer. Everything on this shake is
yellow or gold, but we chose to top the dessert
with a dark chocolate star to give depth to the
assembly. The effect can be viewed as a star
falling out of the night sky.
Grinchmas Cake Shake
My favorite Cake Shake to date is the Grinchmas
Cake Shake, as the entire shake works together
to portray one idea. The shake is Great Lakes
Christmas ale, Oreo cookies, peppermint cake,
and candy canes. There is a lot going on with
flavor here, but the idea was to create a Grinch
that was immediately recognizable in as few
14 Pastry Arts
Grinchmas Cake Shake featuring Great Lakes Christmas Ale
elements as possible. We carefully matched
the green and added sprinkles to simulate
fur. The eyes were made by piping chocolate
on a stencil copied from the original Dr. Seuss
book. We placed the cake upright and trimmed
it with white chocolate cotton candy. We can
almost imagine the Grinch himself sipping on
this murky green cake shake!
As a note, each of these cake shakes were
served @publichousechi exactly as shown.
We hope you enjoyed these examples of cake
shakes with some applied dessert theory to
create playful and delicious offerings for the
restaurant or bar.
Photo Credit: Lindsey Simon
Jimmy MacMillan is a celebrated pastry chef,
food writer and award-winning videographer.
As the Corporate Pastry Chef for DineAmic
Group in Chicago, Chef MacMillan creates viral
desserts for six restaurant venues. Currently,
Jimmy is developing a new video series under
the name JMVirtuosity. For more information,
visit www.JMPurePastry.com
 inspired chocolate
for the bold chef

Crafted in Berkeley, California

to receive samples email sales@tcho.com

Ventures, Inc. 3100 San Pablo Ave., Suite 170 Berkeley, CA 94702 USA
TCHO.com • (844) 877-8246 • @TCHOchocolate
Profile

Emily Luchetti
oN ProfeSSioNaL
GrowTh &
refLeCTioN
By Shawn Wenner

16 Pastry Arts
F
rom working at the legendary Stars in San Francisco
to authoring several books, co-hosting a PBS show,
appearing on various television programs, and receiving
industry awards such as the James Beard Foundation’s
Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America,
Emily Luchetti has helped to define what great pastry
means in America. Her secret? Combining passion and tenacity
with a healthy dose of curiosity. Because passion, as she says, can
disappear rather quickly when you have 400 sugar flowers to make.
In our interview, Luchetti shares a bit of her professional journey,
and provides advice for young professionals today about getting over
mistakes, the danger of social media, and planning for a long-term
career.

The Q&a
first, what was it like working at
the legendary Stars restaurant with
Jeremiah Tower?

Jeremiah is a bit of an enigma. On the one

hand, he can be extremely difficult, but on the
other hand he’s extremely charming, has a great
sense of humor, and his palate is impeccable.
Stars was life-changing for everybody who
worked there.
One of the most remarkable things was
when Jeremiah opened it, no one knew if it
was going to take off or what it was going to
be, because no one had seen anything like that
before. We were in unchartered waters. Then,
when we opened, and everything took off the
way it did, it changed the country as far as
how people looked at food. It was a very, very
magical place to be.

Pastry Arts 17

with all the success you’ve had thus
far, when you look back, what helped
you get to where you are today?
To be successful, you have to have a combination
of tenacity and passion. You can have a passion
for making cakes, but when you’ve got 400
sugar flowers to make, the passion disappears
quickly, and tenacity has to slip in and take
over. The balance of tenacity and passion gets
you through the different parts of your day and
career.
Staying curious is a big part; and the
willingness to do hard work day-in and day-
out. It’s a creative journey as well as a practical
journey. So, it’s keeping both of those things
alive at the same time.
Also, I’m more competitive with myself
than with other people. If I see someone do
something in the dessert world I find amazing,
I get excited and want to promote them
because I’m a firm believer that everybody
can win. Everybody wants to be the best, but
there are so many different ways to do things.
I’m competitive with myself and want to keep
doing new and different things, whether it’s
creating new desserts, pastries, or dessert
related experiences.
18 Pastry Arts
Many pastry chefs or professionals
want to “do their own thing” or “their
own desserts” instead of “working
for someone,” what are your thoughts
on this? was this something you
wrestled with personally?
You’re [either] going to be told what to do by
the boss of a restaurant or if you’re on your own,
your customers are going to tell you what they
want. First, you need to stay true to yourself
and what your style of food is, but at the same
time, you need to be practical. I always give a
crème brûlée analogy. Pastry chefs say crème
brûlées are boring and uncreative, and my
attitude is they’re low food cost, easy to make,
and the customer loves them. So, what’s wrong
with that picture? Maybe it’s not the most
creative thing that you’re doing, but it checks
a lot of boxes.
If you’re selling out your soul and doing
something that is totally against who you are
as a person, [that is one thing], but you also
have to be practical in the fact that you want
to make a living. You’re going to have to bend
the rules a little and ask what are you being so
principled on that it’s kind of silly? To a certain
extent, we should all say it’s just food. Be very
true to it and take it very seriously, but just be
a little bit more pragmatic.
Another example is a lot of people who start
a bakery say they’re not going to do soups
and sandwiches, just desserts and pastries,
but three months in they start selling soups
and sandwiches. Why? Because it helps their
bottom line immensely. It gets people in the
door at another time besides when they’re
looking for something sweet, and if they’re in
for a sandwich or soup, it could boost dessert
sales. So, I think you have to be open-minded.
But again, if someone’s asking you to sell
your soul to do something, quit and go work
somewhere else. But the idea that you can run
your own business and you’re not going to have
other people tell you what to do is a fallacy.
 To be successful, you have
to have a combination of
tenacity and passion. You can
have a passion for making
cakes, but when you’ve got
400 sugar flowers to make,
the passion disappears
quickly, and tenacity has to
slip in and take over.

Pastry Arts 19
what helped you develop your own
unique style?
My personality kind of matches my food style;
I’m more understated – I dress simple, a little
classic and I’m down to earth. It evolved [in San
Francisco], and I was very fortunate to be at
Stars where everything came together. It felt
very natural to me.
People often ask how to match desserts
with a menu, and I tell them if they understand
the overall ethos of the chef, restaurant, and
culture, it’s not forced. You don’t have to think
about it. Every time I do something, I just
create things that naturally fit. Some of that is
choosing to work with people where there’s a
commonality.
what fundamentals have been vital to
your success?
You can’t make much without folding, whipping
and beating [laughs].
It’s a discipline for hard work and
the appreciation of hard work. Nothing
20 Pastry Arts
comes easy. There are days you wake up, and
you’re so tired you don’t want to go in, but you
go. Because if you want it, you have to work
for it, and it makes it that much sweeter when
you get it.
It’s also being open to new ideas and not
doing everything the same way. There are
many techniques people can use, but when you
switch something around, it can suddenly come
out better – like making a caramel sauce, and
instead of adding cream in the end, you add rum
or something. With desserts it’s scientific, and
there are certain ways you have to bake, but
you can learn the rules and then discover which
rules you can bend, which rules can be broken,
and which ones you can’t mess with at all.
There are techniques you learn in the
beginning that you will get better with over
time, but at the same time, there’s always the
ability to bend rules, and it’s something that’s a
lifelong experience. Because not only can you
figure it out your own way, but someone else
will too, and once you see another pastry chef
do it a different way, you can adapt to that.
what are some of the trends you see
right now that are standing out to
you?

There are so many different styles that are

successful at the same time. When I started,
everything was in restaurants, and now it’s a There are days you wake
combination of restaurants, bakeries, food
products, etc., and I find that breadth is really up, and you’re so tired
good.
I am concerned that it seems very few
you don’t want to go in,
people want to work in restaurants anymore,
and the other problem with that is they want
but you go. Because if
to own a business – bakery, make cakes – but you want it, you have to
a lot of people fail because of the margins and
how expensive it is to run a business. Also, work for it, and it makes
restaurants have scaled down on the size of the
pastry departments which is very discouraging. it that much sweeter
I’m also very happy that you can find quality
on all different levels now. It’s more about when you get it.
quality because we all can’t eat dessert all the
time. So, everyone’s saying, we know we’re
not going to give them up, so let’s make sure
whatever we eat is really good quality.

Something you started was

#dessertworthy, a movement to
empower people to be more mindful
of their sugar and fat indulgences;
can you share the inspiration for
this?

As a society we aren’t going to get people to

stop eating desserts, nor do I firmly believe that
they should on many levels – primary because
I’m a pastry chef [laughs]. Desserts play a really
important role. If you put a bunch of people
around the table with a really good Tiramisu
– or whatever it is – the whole experience is
heightened. Over a lifetime, you get a lot of those
little experiences, and they’re instrumental. One
Tiramisu isn’t going to do it, but 30 Tiramisu’s
over the years does. I really feel there’s a place
for it, but I think we need to control it.

Pastry Arts 21
Don’t beat yourself up for
the things that didn’t work
or for the reviews you got
that weren’t great.

22 Pastry Arts
Now, if you were starting fresh in the
industry today, what advice would
you give yourself?

Don’t beat yourself up for the things that didn’t

work or for the reviews you got that weren’t
great. Also, you have to be careful not to let
the drudgery and hard work of it all overwhelm
the bigger picture and the passion. It’s really
important to constantly keep yourself mentally
engaged and invigorated.
There were a few years where I said to
myself, “Should I have gone straight to pastry
instead of doing seven years in savory? Did I
waste that time?” But I really didn’t think that
I did because I learned how to work the line
amazingly, so you can take that speed and
accuracy into the pastry kitchen, and I also
learned a palate that I think is very helpful in
pastry. Having both sides of the kitchen was
really helpful for me.

Pastry Arts 23
 Be careful of social media.
I think it plays a big role, and
it’s an important [tool] to
what advice would you give to the
pastry and baking professionals in promote yourself, but don’t look
the industry today? constantly at what other people
Be careful of social media. I think it plays a big are doing stylistically or what
role, and it’s an important [tool] to promote
yourself, but don’t look constantly at what
they have on their menus to the
other people are doing stylistically or what point where it doesn’t allow you
they have on their menus to the point where
it doesn’t allow you to look internally. You have to look internally.
to look both outward for inspiration and inside.
So, you have to turn off those external sources
to get back to what you want to do and what Photo Credits: Michael Lamotte,
you want to express. Aubrie Pick, Sheri Giblin
It’s really easy in this day and age to turn off
the internal because it’s never really turned on.
And then you might miss some really creative
opportunities. Sometimes, the way creativity
works is you have stuff in your head and it just
turns around like in a mixing bowl and then
all of a sudden something comes out and you
have to just give things time to kind of shuffle
and mix together. So, don’t be constantly on
the go that you don’t give yourself enough time
for reflection. And downtime is as important
as anything because it allows everything to
process.
You have to look ahead at what you want
to do because you can’t be 60 years old and
working behind the counter doing production
14 hours a day. Your body just won’t let you
do that. When you’re younger, and as you go
through your career, you have to start looking
at the totality and the longevity of what your
role is going to be and how you fit in. Also, allow
yourself to evolve as you move through your
career, and be open to different kinds of things.

24 Pastry Arts
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Trends

Crossroads
where Savory
MeeTS SweeT
By Robert Wemischner

26 Pastry Arts
 B
ack in the
16th and 17th
centuries,
olives,
truffles and
artichokes were
considered suitable to
serve as dessert. At the
royal banquets of the day, Pastry Chef Meg Galus Using Black
Sesame in Ice Cream
desserts were often served
alongside the savory dishes. When you ask Meg Galus, Pastry Chef of
Only in the late 17th Boka and Somerset, both in Chicago, for her
thoughts on the expanded pantry, she answers:
century, when sugar became “I don’t necessarily like to put things into hard
a more common ingredient, categories. I’m not thinking of ingredients as
strictly ‘sweet’ or ‘savory.’ Instead, I’m seeking
did dessert take its place at to produce desserts that are balanced. Whether
the end of the meal as a I’m using black sesame in an ice cream, or miso
in the sauce for sticky toffee pudding to add an
Bo

separate sweet course. element of umami, I’m conscious of the need to

ka
’s D

create desserts that have dimension and taste

But everything old is
ar k

good.” Never a proponent of using ingredients

&M

new again, as pastry in a dessert for shock value, Galus draws upon
ilk C

her experience working on the savory side of the

chefs are exploring kitchen to season her desserts with ingredients
hoc

a wider pantry that make sense together on a dessert plate.

olate

Likewise, Shawn Gawle, Executive Pastry Chef

of ingredients
with B

for the McGuire Moorman Hospitality group,

with a portfolio of varied restaurants in Austin,
to produce
uckwheat Buttermilk & St

TX and Aspen, CO, likes to mix things up a bit by

satisfying endings using duck fat in his cannoli dough, thyme in a
pastry cream and tart lemony sorrel in a granita.
to the meal that He elaborates: “I love to use candied rosemary in
includes savory my Gateau Basque served with a cream cheese
gelato, and miso in small doses goes a long way
ingredients. to complexing a sweet coda to a meal.”
ou t

Pastry Arts 27
 Herbal accents aren’t the only instances of
borrowing from what were considered part of
the savory pantry. John Shields, chef-owner of
Smyth, a tasting only restaurant, and the less
formal Loyalist, both in Chicago, makes liberal
use of vegetables, seaweed, mushrooms and
many other boundary-erasing ingredients in
his desserts. “I view desserts as a seamless
continuation of the dining experience.” Seamless
and responsive to what’s coming from the farm
at any given moment, without distinguishing
savory from sweet.
Rick Griggs, Executive Pastry Chef at Taste
Catering, San Francisco, tends to draw frequently
from the herb cabinet in his desserts. “Working
with a wide variety of clients and at many
different types of high-count events, I don’t tend
to go out on a limb mixing savory with sweet, but
I have often paired apple-based desserts with a
rosemary financier, custards with bay leaf and
blackberry sorbet with a judicious use of sage.”
Manuela Sanin, Executive Pastry Sous Chef
at Eleven Madison Park, NY, also loves using
vegetables in her desserts. “Beets, carrots, sweet
potato and butternut squash are among my
favorites. These can be roasted, poached and
pickled or fried into chips, lending a savory accent
which pushes the dessert to the next level.” She
also likes to infuse white balsamic vinegar with
toasted coffee beans or cacao nibs and use it
as an ingredient to balance the sweetness in
ice creams. Barley, the beer brewer’s favorite,
also plays a role in a recent creation. “I toast the
grain until it’s dark and then steep it overnight
in the milk to make an ice cream base.” She then
pairs this with barley malt to make a second
ice cream, a crumble and a shortbread, as
supporting elements in her minimalist, somewhat
architectural sweet presentation.
Miro Uskokovic isn’t afraid to finesse blue
cheese, curry and fruity gastriques (caramelized
sugar deglazed with vinegar) in his desserts at
Gramercy Tavern, NYC. He says with confidence:
“I never look at dessert as something that is
meant to be one-note sweet. It’s all food. The
ingredients that I draw from the savory pantry
28 Pastry Arts
Pastry Chef Miro Uskokovic’s Pear,
Walnut & Stilton Dessert
are used not to make a dessert sound cool or
interesting. It’s because they taste good.” A highly
balanced example of his philosophy appears on
the pear and bleu cheese dessert where red wine
poached pears and Stilton ice cream share space.
Caramelized walnuts, red wine caramel and
crispy chips of pain d’epices (French spice cake)
are each supporting players in the ensemble.
Black sesame and miso pastes also figure in his
desserts, adding an extra level of salty, earthy
notes to a pavlova. Thyme, rosemary and sage
appear in apple and pear desserts, adding savory
notes to desserts where fruit is the star. His green
curry ice cream takes advantage of a pantry of
aromatics from the savory kitchen: galangal,
kaffir lime, basil, among them.
On tables from New York to California and
beyond, whether sweet, savory or some of
each, desserts are gaining their rightful place
as examples of creativity and good taste,
encompassing a broader array of ingredients,
thoughtfully used.
Photo Credit: Daniel Krieger
Robert Wemischner is a longtime professional
baking instructor at Los Angeles Trade-
Technical College and the author of four books,
including The Dessert Architect.
Business Bites

five owners
Share Challenges
& advice for
opening a Shop
In this edition of “Business Bites,” we connect with five owners
to understand the challenges they faced while opening their shop
and their best advice for aspiring owners.

30 Pastry Arts

Zaclyn &
albert rivera
Owners, Sweet Pea Bake Shop
Sonoma, California
The Challenge of Opening a Shop
The most challenging part was getting
together a comprehensive game plan; nailing
down both the long term and short term
goals. We had so many ideas, so having to
make a firm decision on the concept and
what we wanted to serve was difficult. We
had to narrow it all down and start small to
not be completely overwhelmed. Creating a
carefully thought-out, structured plan really
helped guide us. With it, we were better able
to prioritize our efforts and use our time
efficiently.
Best Advice for Aspiring Shop Owners
Don’t be afraid to ask for help. In recognizing
our weaknesses, we were able to gain strength
by enlisting others. For the areas we realized
we might be lacking in experience, we turned
to our local Small Business Development
Center to assist us in filling in the gaps.
Their team of experts, well-versed in a
variety of different fields, helped us to lay
a solid foundation for our plan. For us, the
biggest challenge was funding and financial
projections. The SBDC not only guided us
towards discovering other sources, but they
also aided in the refinement of our idea, so we
were better able to approach investors and
present a clear picture of what we needed and
what we were going to do. Always looking
to adjust and pivot to stay on our course, we
frequently refer back to that business plan
to see where we’re at compared with where
we expected ourselves to be. Also, another
important thing we learned is to start small
and let it all grow organically. Don’t lose
sight of the big picture and burn yourself out
trying to make your business everything you
envisioned all at once. There is always room to
grow and time to add more as you learn what
your clientele likes.
Pastry Arts 31
Karen Krasne
Owner,
Extraordinary Desserts
San Diego, California
The Challenge
of Opening a Shop
The hardest part was going from
baking and selling desserts from
a home kitchen to a brick and
mortar location with regulations,
permits, overhead, customer
service, and employees. It
changes the way you approach
the art of creating and baking in
the kitchen. The ultimate success
is to hone the business skills
while still keeping the integrity
of the product. I was fortunate to
create a consistent demand from
my part-time wholesale baking.
It’s not something that happened
overnight, so I had to be patient
and learn how to expand into a
full-time business.

Best Advice for Aspiring

Shop Owners
It’s important to continue working
full-time in a day job while
pursuing your passion in the side
business. I would make sure that
my work was being appreciated
by more than just my friends
and family, and that I was at a
breaking point of doing both
careers. That is when you know
that it’s time to take the leap.

32 Pastry Arts
sherry sobel
A Cake In Time Bakery
& Workshop
Wading River, New York
The Challenge of Opening a Shop
The most challenging part was navigating
the hundreds of details associated with
owning your own business – lawyers,
permits, estimating future and start-up costs,
equipment and furniture purchases, recipe
creation, and the dreaded loan process, to
name a few.
Best Advice for Aspiring Shop Owners
The best advice is to educate yourself.
Surround yourself with a good support system
– family, friends, professional contacts. Share
your business plan with trusted contacts
that can provide advice and guide you to the
right professionals to help make the process
as organized and transparent as possible.
Knowing what to expect down the road will
reinforce your decision to open your own
place, or give you the knowledge to put it on
hold until all the dominos are in place.
carrie spindler
Owner, GoodieBox
Bake Shop
Cliffside Park, New Jersey
The Challenge of Opening a Shop
I think everyone in this industry will tell you
it’s the money. People do not go into pastry
and baking for the payout, but for the passion.
They love creating things that bring people joy
and comfort. However, the cost of outfitting
a commercial space for food preparation is
expensive. Ovens, mixers, and refrigeration
are pricey on their own, but the infrastructure
needed to even put this equipment in requires
very expensive labor such as skilled and
licensed electricians and plumbers. Given the
amount of capital you will burn through just
to open the doors, you’re going to need to be
able to float the business a few months until
you can hopefully get cash flowing to pay all
your overhead.
34 Pastry Arts
Best Advice for Aspiring Shop Owners
My recommendation for those interested in
this industry is to start by selling at a farmer’s
market, share your cakes on social media, and
entice people with your journey and they will
support you. Let the pastry business be your
side hustle until you can make it your full-time
career. This approach should mitigate your
risk as you will have built up a client base for
future sales, while also allowing you to get a
better grasp on the business side of baking.
Once you have a firm grasp of what you
are good at, what people will pay for it, and
whether it can be a sustainable business, you
will be in a better position to seek funding, be
it from family, friends, or other prospective
investors such as a bank or non-bank lender.
eleni Gianopulos
CEO and Baker-in-Chief,
Eleni’s New York Best Advice for Aspiring Shop Owners
New York, New York Look down the road for five years. Where and
what do you want to be doing at that time?
Will you be in the kitchen, running sales, using
The Challenge of Opening a Shop
a co-packer or leasing a bakery of your own?
When I first started, I was my only employee, Take the time to figure out what would feel
then I hired one and then another, but there best to you, and define success in several
were still limitations that you wouldn’t years and what success means to you, not to
normally come across in an up-and-running others. Once you know what you want, you
traditional office. If someone called out sick, will then be able to more clearly articulate
that was 30% of my workforce, so it definitely your plan, and be able to get better help from
made for some very long days and evenings. others, as well.
Cash flow was a constant struggle while
looking to expand and grow. And while it was
great being involved in every aspect of your
business, you find yourself wearing every hat
– sales, production, shipping, accounting,
HR, etc.

Pastry Arts 35
Trends

SavoriNG
La DoLCe viTa
From a chocolate waterfall to a nutella jar doorway,
vivid new italian outposts open in new york

By Meryle Evans

36 Pastry Arts
C
Nutella Café, New York

Venchi, Nutella Café, and Princi Bakery

ioccolati, arrived almost simultaneously last November,
all in high-traffic locations, all corporate
cornetti, owned, and all showcasing Italy’s devotion to
stylish design and an ambiance that blends
gelato, tradition with innovation. With soaring spaces,
and other picture windows, and imaginative wall décor,
they have become instantly popular additions
delectable to Gotham’s well-established Italian venues,
ranging from Sant Ambroeus boutiques to
dolce are super-sized Eatalys.
luring Manhattanites to a The three newcomers have already initiated
other stateside forays. Nutella and Venchi have
trio of beguiling new Italian carved out corners within Eataly; Nutella and
Princi recently opened Chicago stand-alone
shops with convivial cafes and stores; and Princi, exclusive purveyor of baked
goods at Starbucks Reserve Roasteries, is
bountiful arrays of chocolate, ensconced at Roasteries in Seattle, Chicago,
baked goods, and frozen and New York. Each is planning expansion to
other areas, seeking lively sites similar to those
specialties. already up and running.

Pastry Arts 37
Princi Bakery, New York

For the venerable 140-year-old Venchi’s

first Manhattan venture, Paolo Della Mora, the
company’s Business Development Director,
scouted the city, settling on a former Steve
Madden shoe store on Broadway and 18th
Street just north of Union Square. A dramatic
10-foot-high and 45-foot-wide chocolate
waterfall defines the space, the backdrop for a
banquette seating area at the rear of the shop.
According to Della Mora, it was a serendipitous
solution for an awkward triangular area that had
been a storeroom for the previous tenant, and
provides a picturesque setting for customers
who come to linger over their gelato, crepes,
and hot chocolate. The 20 flavors of gelato, display of over 200 varieties of mix-and-match
house-made daily with the company’s formula, chocolates dominates another wall of the
are already well known to enthusiasts who have shop – colorfully wrapped cremino, gianduja,
visited other Venchi shops, over 100 world- nougatine, and bars made with single origin
wide in 70 countries. The firm was founded by Central American cacaos. At the counter a
Silvano Venchi in 1878 in Piedmont, the cradle chocolate fountain dispenses Suprema, the
of Italian chocolate expertise, and home to Venchi brand olive oil-based chocolate hazelnut
the region’s top-quality hazelnuts. A stunning spread, to coat crepes and gelato.

38 Pastry Arts
 A few blocks south, at 13th Street and
University Place, the phenomenally popular
Nutella welcomes its legions of fans at an
easily recognizable entrance in the shape of
the familiar jar. Aficionados flock to the airy,
well-lit space to line up at a long counter for
everything Nutella. You can create your own
crepes, waffles or pancakes, opt for fruit-filled
clafoutis, crème brûlée, or a chia seed parfait
to be served tableside, or pick up Nutella-filled
cookies, jars of the spread, gift boxes, and a
Nutella cookbook to go.
The ubiquitous spread is the heritage of
Pietro Ferrero, a Piedmontese pastry shop
owner who started making a thick hazelnut
chocolate paste just after World War II, and
his son Michele, who adjusted the recipe to
a spreadable formula in 1961. Rebranded as
Nutella, it was quickly acclaimed in Europe,
and eventually around the world. Competitors
abound, even nearby, with Max Brenner
around the corner, and Blue Stripes Cocoa
Shop recently opened by Oded Brenner, who
created the Brenner chain, just a few doors
away, all thriving in this chocolate-infused
neighborhood.

Venchi, New York

Pastry Arts 39
40 Pastry Arts
 Uptown at 51st and Broadway, in a
2,750-square-foot corner space, Princi
welcomes a diverse clientele with chocolate
brioche for breakfast, lunchtime soups, salads
and foccacia/pizzas, afternoon aperitivos,
and post-theater pastries. Founded by Milan
baker Rocco Princi in 1986, the business
has flourished, with satellites from London
to Shanghai, and since 2016, a Starbucks
affiliation. Princi Bakery, New York
The design of the Broadway bakery was
inspired by the Milan original: natural materials, pause and enjoy their meal, and engage in a
earth colored stone, and a 20-foot curated wall shared experience we call the ‘Spirit of Milan’
displaying colorful ingredients like lemons, right here in New York City.” To achieve that
peppers and olives, all imported from Italy. Two atmosphere, there is a communal table seating
large ovens are a focal point for fresh baking 30, a coffee bar, and a bevy of “comessas”,
onsite throughout the day. bakers and servers wearing Spirito di Milano
Still a hands-on baker obsessed with sourcing t-shirts, to relay the message. Soon they, along
top products, Princi’s vision, according to Erin with Venchi and Nutella, will be spreading the
Shane, Starbucks Senior Communications word, and la bella vita, to other parts of the
Manager, is to “encourage customers to take country.

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New & Notable
baKon classes
Bakon USA, maker of industrial bakery
equipment and commercial bakery
machines, is presenting a series of
professional baking ‘Masterclasses’
in collaboration with the Pastry Arts
Academy at their showroom in Torrance,
California. The classes are an opportunity
for professionals to meet, exchange ideas,
learn new skills and try Bakon equipment
hands-on.
Following are the upcoming classes:
April 25-28, 2019:
Patisserie Masterclass – B-Concept
Method by Jordi Bordas
June 12-15, 2019:
Patisserie Masterclass by Cecile Farkas
Moritel
For more information on these classes,
or to register, visit
https://bakonusa.com/our-services/
training.
42 Pastry Arts
NEW FILLED
AND FROZEN
ECLAIRS
ifiGOURMET launches their new Filled and
Frozen Eclairs. Available in 9 flavors, the
buttery, French eclairs are dipped by hand,
using high-quality and all-natural ingredients.
On a mission to find filled and frozen eclairs
to add to their frozen product lineup for 2019,
ifiGOURMET looked to their own supply of
products and decided on their French éclair
shells from Jean Ducourtieux, tantalizing
flavor pastes from Dreidoppel, and the finest
chocolate from CasaLuker to create these
frozen eclairs.
Flavor options include: Vanilla, Chocolate,
Espresso, Chocolate Raspberry, Chocolate
Peanut Butter, Peanut Butter and Jelly,
Strawberries and Cream, Pistachio
Mascarpone, and Bananas Foster.
The thaw-and-serve eclairs have
exceptional taste, will save you time, and
can be eaten as they are, or used to create
gourmet desserts. For more information
regarding new Frozen and Filled Eclairs, please
visit their website at ifigourmet.com.
chefs pfeiffer and cannone
receive coveted award
The USA chapter of the Académie Culinaire The prestigious Fauteuil de l’Académie
de France recently awarded the prestigious award is given to chefs whose lifetime body of
Fauteuil de l’Académie to Chefs Sebastien work will have a long-lasting impact on the food
Canonne, M.O.F., and Jacquy Pfeiffer, co- industry. Chefs Canonne and Pfeiffer received
founders of The French Pastry School in the honor for their commitment and dedication
Chicago. The award is normally given to one to educating current and future pastry chefs.
chef annually as a recognition of his or her Each year, the French Pastry School instructs
lifetime achievement. The award was presented over 1000 students through its full-time
at ACF’s annual grand meeting in New York certificate programs in Pastry and Baking, Cake,
City this past weekend.
and Bread; continuing education workshops;
Founded in 1879, the Académie Culinaire events; and community demonstrations.
de France is an assembly of over 1000
“We are very honored to receive these
distinguished chefs and representatives of
the food industry, including winemakers, awards, as they validate our mission to ensure
sommeliers, restaurateurs and biologists. a continual supply of highly-trained chefs to
With the mission to “Share our Knowledge”, the industry,” said Chef Canonne. “We are very
the Académie educates and coaches aspiring proud of what we have accomplished these
chefs to perform at their best and to compete past 23 years at the school, and now embark
internationally. The Académie authenticates on a new chapter through a partnership with
new trends, food movements, or technology, Robert Morris University Illinois,” said Chef
and also pays close attention to the quality of Pfeiffer. For more info on the French Pastry
food and health issues. School, visit www.frenchpastryschool.com.
Photo by Alan Bresson
Left to right: Chef Jean-
Louis Gerin (President,
Académie Culinaire de
France, USA Delegation),
Chef Sylvain Leroy
(Corporate Pastry Chef,
Paris Gourmet), Chef
Jacquy Pfeiffer (Co-
Founder, The French
Pastry School), Anne-Claire
Legendre (Consul General
of France in New York),
Chef Sebastien Canonne
(Co-Founder, The French
Pastry School), Chef
Sebastien Baud (Chef de
Cuisine, Consulat General
of France in New York)

Pastry Arts 43
Vegan
Meringue
Powder and
Organic Sprinkles
Meringue Shop recently introduced two breakthrough
products for bakers: egg-free Meringue Powder and
Organic Sprinkles. The Meringue Powder performs
just like an egg-based meringue powder, without the
additives, preservatives or artificial ingredients. Meringue
Shop Meringue Powder is vegan and allergen friendly,
free from dairy, nuts, gluten, soy and corn. Aquafaba,
made from organic chickpeas, replaces the egg whites
in the powder. This product produces a royal icing that
is smooth, quick to dry and strong. The confetti-style
Organic Sprinkles are vegan, kosher, and free of peanuts,
tree nuts and gluten. They are wafer-thin, with just a hint
of sweetness. The sprinkles are also colorfast – the plant-
based colors from freeze-dried fruits and vegetables stay
on the sprinkles and will not bleed into frostings,
ice cream or glazes. For more info on these and other
Meringue Shop products, visit www.meringueshop.com.

44 Pastry Arts
WEDDING
CAKE LACE
by Chef Rudi
Master Pastry Chef
Rudi Weider’s
impressive career
spans more than 46
years, with highlights
including baking for
Presidents George
H. W. Bush and
Ronald Reagan.
He spent many
years as the Master Pastry Chef at the Hilton
San Diego Bayfront, retiring last year. Now
he is a pastry chef consultant, working with
executive chefs across the country to enhance
and streamline their pastry programs. He is
also a sugar lace artist, and is producing the
finest edible lace, in various intricate patterns,
for wedding cakes. The labor-intensive lace
is available in white, silver or gold, and can
be airbrushed or brushed with luster dust.
This beautiful sugarwork lace can be used on
buttercream or fondant cakes, and will add a
touch of elegance to just about any design.
For more info on Chef Rudi’s consultation
services or to purchase his lace, visit www.
chefrudi.com.
KereKes
EaStER

Kerekes (www.bakedeco.com), an excellent heavy-duty mold is made of durable cast

online source for cutting-edge pastry aluminum in two pieces, and measures 12
ingredients, equipment and recipes, has some inches front to back and 7 inches in height.
great new Easter products available, including Just fill it with your favorite pound cake
the following: recipe, bake and decorate.

The Martellato Thermoformed-Plastic

Chocolate Egg Mold (#20U3D05) allows you
to create beautiful swirled chocolate eggs.
The set includes five pieces – two molds of
the front egg, two molds of the back egg, and
one mold with two cavities for the standing
plate, allowing you to make two complete
eggs. The mold will create chocolate eggs that
measure 4 ½ inches in diameter by 7 ¼ inches
high, each with a weight of approximately
310 grams.
What would Easter be without big
chocolate bunnies? Kerekes’s Big-Eared Rabbit
is a two-piece polycarbonate chocolate mold
that makes six solid rabbits that each measure
5 inches tall. Made in Europe of rigid, clear,
polycarbonate plastic, this professional-
grade mold features beautiful detail, and is
exceptionally sturdy. Overall size of the mold
is 11 by 7 inches.
Kerekes’s 12-inch Lamb Cake Mold will
create an adorable 3D Easter cake and lots
of holiday memories for your customers. This

46 Pastry Arts
 THE NEW PIE
Married couple Chris Taylor and Paul
Arguin share a profession and a passion –
they are doctors by day, but spend all their
free time competing in baking contests.
Together they have won more than 500

Dye-Free Desserts ribbons for their pies and other baked

goods, including Best of Show in the 2017
National Pie Championship. In their first
As more consumers seek out and request book, The New Pie: Modern Techniques
artificial-dye free and plant-based foods, for the Classic American Dessert (Clarkson
ColorKitchen has announced it is now Potter, 2019; $30), the self-taught bakers
consulting with pastry chefs and other artisan show baking enthusiasts how to take their
food producers to incorporate plant-based, pies to the next level.
artificial dye-free colors into their desserts.
Recipes range from spins on classic fruit
The company, which manufactures colorful
pies, including Crazzberry, Spiced Apple
plant-based alternatives to traditional artificial
Cider and Chocolate-Covered Cherry, to
food dyes and sprinkles, as well as gluten-
cream pies with modern flavors such as
free cake mixes, decided to expand into ‘food
Thai Iced Tea and Root Beer and boozy
color consulting’ after receiving dozens of calls
pies like Strawberry Margarita with Salted
from chefs from small to midsize bakeries,
Rim, Old Fashioned Cherry, and Bellini.
ice cream and doughnut shops, as well as the
There are also whimsical showpieces
cannabis industry, who have been seeking
like Bubbling Butterbeer, Saturday
the company’s colors and sprinkles in bulk for
Morning Cartoon Cereal, and Coffee and
commercial use.
Doughnuts. The New Pie is a book that is
ColorKitchen’s food colors and sprinkles bound to inspire dessert professionals as
are made with natural and simple plant-based well as baking enthusiasts. Available from
ingredients like turmeric, spirulina, beet, and amazon.com and bookstores everywhere.
annatto. In the process of making the dyes,
flavors and textures are removed from the
plant ingredients, leaving pure color behind.
The company also recently introduced the
baking industry’s first ‘dye-free, heat stable’
deep red velvet food color that won’t fade
when it goes into the oven.
The easy-to-use food colorings come in a
powder form for an extended shelf-life. Unlike
liquid food colors, these will not dilute and
water-down the recipe when more color is
added. The colors and sprinkles can be added
to dry ingredients, or readily mix into gummies,
candies, added to baked goods, or for frosting
treats. The colors are also gluten-free, soy-
free, and non-GMO. For more info or to
purchase, visit www.colorkitchenfoods.com.

Pastry Arts 47
Cover Story

JeN
yee
Following
Her Palate
& Instincts

By Brian
Cazeneuve

48 Pastry Arts
 A
fter
graduating
from London’s
Le Cordon
Bleu in
2003, Pastry
Chef Jen Yee hit the ground
running, launching her career at
Gordon Ramsay’s Menu at The
Connaught in London, followed
by a position as opening team
member of the modern Chinese
tea salon, Yauatcha in Soho. In
2006 she returned to the States
to become Pastry Sous Chef
at Gilt inside New York City’s
luxurious Palace Hotel.
A few years later, Yee became Charlie Palmer’s
Pastry Chef at Aureole, and then moved on
to the 2 Michelin-starred SHO Shaun Hergatt
downtown, where she was able to showcase
her contemporary technique and style. In early
2013, Yee paired with Chef Andrew Carmellini
to open his third restaurant in New York, the
French inspired Lafayette Grand Café & Bakery.
Her neatly executed desserts in the restaurant,
as well as her whimsical takes on traditional
patisserie in the café, garnered her three
nominations from the James Beard Foundation
for Outstanding Pastry Chef. Yee is now the
Executive Pastry Chef for Lincoln Hopkins’
Resurgens Hospitality Group, with a focus on
his flagship, Restaurant Eugene. Pastry Arts’
Brian Cazeneuve caught up with Yee in New
York recently to find out a little bit more about
her past, present and future.
The Q&a
what made you want to pursue
a career as a pastry chef?
I think from a very young age, I knew I wanted
to create things. Food, especially pastry, was
an easy medium for me to play with even as a
kid. I remember watching public television after
school with my Uncle, and Great Chefs would be
on. I would always look forward to the dessert
segment at the end, but sometimes they
would just make savory courses throughout
the whole show. I remember feeling cheated
during those episodes! Also, watching those
shows gave me the realization that you can
actually make pretty, sweet things for a living!
you studied architecture. Did that
study help you at all in constructing
or plating your desserts?
I have a BFA in Interior Architecture, and some
of the prerequisite classes were very art based;
color theory, drawing, art and architectural
history. I think this gave me a great foundation
on which to build my dessert style (pun?). The
one concept that has really stuck with me is
balance, in terms of flavor, texture, temperature
and color.
Pastry Arts 49
 My intuition
comes into play
in both flavor and
presentation.

50 Pastry Arts
you’ve said you’re not always one for
following recipes – you prefer to use
your intuition. how so?
by being the first one in and the last to leave.
Nowadays, I average about 10 to 12 hours a
day, but it’s broken up between time in the
kitchen and time on the laptop or in meetings.

Using recipes is great, and often necessary,

in pastry. But what’s even more important is
using your palate and instinct. A dish can be
technically perfect, but if it doesn’t taste good,
what’s the point? I think my intuition comes
into play in both flavor and presentation. I
want the flavors to pop and the food to look
natural, with components that are familiar and
surprising at the same time.
where do your inspirations come
from? Do you have to be in the
kitchen to dream something up or
can you be out on a walk, looking at
a sunset, fiddling with an ingredient,
that sort of thing?
Do you get on a creative roll that
keeps you in there until you drop,
or do you go by the clock?
If I’m on a roll, I definitely try to ride it out to
completion. When the creativity bug bites,
the last thing you are doing is looking at the
clock! That’s the beautiful thing about pastry:
if you put in the time, you will come out with
tangible results (that you can eat!). Even if your
experiment doesn’t quite hit the mark, that
experiment can tell you right away what you
could’ve done differently or what areas can be
improved upon.

My inspiration can hit me when I’m lying in

bed at night, hiking on my day off, surfing the
web or just in the kitchen when our produce I used to be an absolute
delivery arrives. And whether I’m working with
a familiar or new ingredient, there are always crazy person and work
‘what if’ moments: ‘What if I did this to it?’ or
‘What if I paired this with that?’, etc. ridiculous hours.
at your busiest, how many hours
are you in the kitchen?

I used to be an absolute crazy person

and work ridiculous hours. That,
of course, was never going to
last long, so over the years,
I’ve found ways to be
smarter with my time and
to trust my team. I also
think that back then, I was
extremely insecure about
my professional worth,
so I tried to make up for it Chocolate Silk Tart

Pastry Arts 51

Carrot Cake with
Kohlrabi Leaf Ice Cream
what savory dishes do you like?
Does it influence your pastry
making? it seems chefs are crossing
the line more and more between
savory and sweet preparations –
is that accurate or fair?
I like far too many savory dishes to list! And
from so many different cuisines, as well. I think
all food a chef experiences can inform their
own work. Chefs and pastry chefs have been
crossing over and borrowing from each other’s
pantries for a long time. It’s really nothing new.
what’s the most underrated
ingredient for a pastry chef?
I’m glad to see more and more pastry chefs
using alternatives to regular white refined sugar.
Honey, maple, sorghum, cane, palm, date, rice,
and more are out there to sweeten our sweets.
52 Pastry Arts
Apple Tart
And most importantly, all of these sweeteners
can lend another layer of complexity and
nuance to even our most basic preparations.
what’s your favorite dessert to eat at
home?
Cake. I love eating cake, and I’m certainly
capable of keeping some in the house at all
times, but I don’t, because I heard you’re not
supposed to eat cake every day. So I substitute
with ice cream on the days I can’t have cake.
what’s your most popular dessert?
Second only to cake are cookies. I love cookies.
And I serve my ‘Dream Cookie’ at Holeman &
Finch in Atlanta. It really is my ultimate cookie,
and it’s proven to be everyone else’s too! It’s
baked fresh, and it’s chock full of Valrhona
chocolate, pecans, coconut, oats and coffee.
I’m glad to see more and
more pastry chefs using
alternatives to regular
white refined sugar.
Pastry Arts 53

Sunchoke & Milk Chocolate Mont Blanc
what’s an ingredient you haven’t
worked with that you would like to?
I would love the opportunity to spend a great
deal of time working with all the varieties of
a single fruit (or vegetable). For example, to
be able to play with all the different types of
quince from around the world, tasting their
different characteristics and how they react to
heat and other cooking methods.
what’s your favorite restaurant,
and your favorite dish there?
I think my favorite restaurant is La Tupina in
Bordeaux, France. The food was great, but
the experience even better, sitting outside in
the middle of summer, with the atmosphere
buzzing all around. My favorite dish was
something very simple but so extraordinary – a
rich duck broth served in a wine glass that was
primed with Madeira from the 1800’s.
54 Pastry Arts
Tell us about your experience of
eating snake in vietnam. how did
that come about?
I think the impetus for wanting to eat snake was
a combination of watching an Anthony Bourdain
episode, and reading in the local guidebook
about a strip of restaurants in Hanoi that
specialized in snake. We became friendly with
our taxi motorcyclists, and asked them to take us
to a snake restaurant. When we arrived, we were
taken to the restaurant through the backyard,
where we saw dogs in cages and snakes in
baskets. When we sat down, we were presented
with a live snake, which was quickly sliced open
and drained of its blood and bile, which we
drank. We proceeded to have about six to seven
courses with different snake preparations. After
that, our drivers took us bowling.
Can you think of a food experiment
you tried that didn’t work?
When I first became a pastry chef, I was obsessed
with making this blue cheese cheesecake dessert.
I loved it, but no one around me did. Neither did
Sam Sifton of The New York Times, who described
it as “exactly like what you’d get if you mistakenly
made a cheesecake with blue cheese.” Oh well.
I wonder if I try again, whether the results may be
different the second time around?
what’s an experiment or an
ingredient that did work or gave you
a ‘wow’ moment in the kitchen?
Last winter at Restaurant Eugene, we had an
influx of beautiful kohlrabi come in from one
of our farms. The bulbs came complete with
their deep green tops, so I braised some of the
leaves in olive oil, salt and pepper, and pureed
them into an ice cream base. I paired the ice
cream with citrus and meringue and the whole
thing worked.
you’ve been a show contestant and a
judge. Did you enjoy it? apart from
the entertainment, do you think those
shows are good for the industry?
I think any show that brings exposure to an
industry is good for that industry. I am, however,
wary of how some shows may discount all the
years of training needed to be really good at
your craft.
When I first became
a pastry chef, I was obsessed
with making this blue cheese
cheesecake dessert.
if you could have one chef, alive or
not, prepare you a meal, who would it
be? and what would he or she make?
If I could go back in time, I would love to
experience one of the grand buffets created
by Antoine Carême. Just the sheer opulence
would blow my mind. And plus, I’m really into
retro food and desserts, and this would be the
ultimate.
Do you like the business part of the
business? Does that ever get in the
way of creativity?
Sometimes the business informs the creativity
and vice-versa. At the end of the day, we are
here to provide a service to people, who in
turn provide us with a certain level of creative
freedom. Unless you have bottomless funds,
there is always a balancing act of being creative
and being practical and smart.
Pastry Arts 55
why do you think women in the
industry are not recognized as often
as men? (The chefs on the 2018
San Pellegrino world’s 50 Best
restaurant List were nearly all male, guys. But that doesn’t mean that we as women
for instance.) why is the industry not can’t hold our own, and celebrate and support
up to speed on this? each other. Yes, I think we have to work harder
to get our voices heard, but what else is new?
Of all the kitchens I’ve worked in since 2001,
the women outnumbered the men in just one what will be the next frontier
of them. Even when the Executive Chef was a of the pastry world?
woman (Angela Hartnett at The Connaught),
men dominated the roster. Before I became a
pastry chef myself, only two out of my seven I hope finding ways to be more environmentally
pastry bosses were women. The professional responsible is on the to-do list. Using more
restaurant industry simply has a higher naturally derived, less refined ingredients
population of men – fact. Until we have an equal should be a priority.
amount of men and women in the kitchen, I feel
the representation will always tilt toward the Photo Credits: Henri Hollis, Andrew Thomas Lee

56 Pastry Arts
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1387
Classics

IrIsh soda
Bread
By Chef Susan Lagalle

58 Pastry Arts
 W
St. Patrick’s Day always reminds me of
working at The Ritz-Carlton, Boston. That Ol’
Grande Dame of Hotels, the original, on 15
hether it’s called
‘Spotted Dog’, ‘Curnie Cake’,
‘Railway Cake’ or just plain
‘Soda Bread’, this sweet
and simple bread is an
Irish tradition

“tea cake” type bread like the one we both

Arlington Street. Every St. Patrick’s Day, the
hotel would host a St. Patrick’s Day Breakfast
with the mayor of Boston. For this event, our
tiny pastry kitchen frantically provided over
500 attendees with loads of breads, scones,
croissants, Danish, muffins, and the iconic
Irish soda bread. Being an adventurous and
ambitious pastry cook, I would volunteer to
work overnight in preparation of this event.
I had the task of firing all of the breakfast
pastries starting at 2:00 in the morning. I also
spent days in advance making round after
round of traditional Irish soda bread. Or so
I thought…
Recently I delved into its history after
an intriguing conversation with an Irish
acquaintance. He remembers Irish soda bread
as a sweet, rich bread filled with currants and
caraway seeds. This is exactly the type I used
to make back in my Ritz days. I was certain
he was right but, nonetheless, research was
in order. Is traditional Irish soda bread a
remember? No, but a similar product called
‘Spotted Dog’ is. Spotted Dog is the sweet
version of Irish soda bread, made with loads
of fruits, eggs, butter, and sugar. While all
that sounds fantastic (except the name), it is
not a true representation of ‘soda bread’ as
was common in the emerald hills of Ireland
by the early 1800’s.
That more historic version of soda bread
is made with only four ingredients: wheat
flour, baking soda, salt, and buttermilk. It
was a rustic loaf made not for guests, but
as a hearty filler to go with supper. It dried
out quickly, so it was made every other day
in a cast iron pot called a bastible pot, which
is similar to a Dutch oven, a staple in most
Irish households. Because soft flour is typical
in Ireland, breads with baking soda – that
don’t rely on gluten development – were
much easier to make than the traditional
yeast-raised breads of Europe. Soda bread’s
popularity skyrocketed in Ireland during the
Potato Famine of the mid 1800’s, because
soda bread is quick, filling, and inexpensive.

Pastry Arts 59
 1

Scale all of the dry

ingredients together with
the exception of the raisins.

60 Pastry Arts

2
Cut the cold butter into the dry ingredients
until no large butter chunks are left.
Add the egg and ‘buttermilk’ to the dry
ingredients and mix until just combined.
3
So if traditional Irish soda bread is
generally a plain loaf, how did it morph into
such an iconic sweet treat? Every corner of
Ireland has a different story that explains
this transformation. One version is that
the additions to soda bread just “went
out of style” in Ireland, but stayed popular
with Irish Americans. Then Irish Americans
traveled back to Ireland to visit family and re-
introduced these additions generations later.
Another common story is based on a time
when Ireland was mostly agricultural. When
the men were working hard on the land, the
women of the family would reward them with
a richer version of soda bread by mixing in
dried fruit, sugar, and an egg, if possible. This
version of the bread resulted in a ‘sweet cake’
which had various names in different parts
of the country: Spotted Dog, Curnie Cake or
Railway Cake, to name a few.
In my version, I have supplemented the
basic white flour with some traditional Irish
whole wheat flour, as well as some cornmeal.
Irish whole wheat flour is a coarsely ground
flour made of red whole wheat. It gives this
bread a bit of heartiness that white flour
lacks. Cornmeal is just a textural favorite
of mine. I have added raisins as my fruit
inclusion, but they can be switched to any
other type of dried fruit. Caraway seeds
add a quintessential flavor that I associate
with soda bread, but they can be omitted if
you don’t like their black licorice flavor. My
homemade buttermilk, however, is essential.
The additional fat in the whole milk used
contributes to the perfect texture and crumb.
While I don’t have a bastible pot handy in
my kitchen, I do have a great old cast iron
sauté pan that works just as well. I don’t find
it necessary to cover my bread as it bakes,
but this bread can be baked in a Dutch oven
which will replicate the bastible pot.
Pastry Arts 61
 4

Turn the dough onto

a well-floured bench
and dust liberally with
bread flour.

SPoTTeD DoG On a well-floured surface, knead the dough

slightly to make sure it holds together and then
Yield: One 8” round, serving 12-16 shape it into a loose round.

5
• 276 g whole milk
• 21 g lemon juice
• 226 g unbleached bread flour
• 143 g Irish-style whole meal flour
• 73 g cornmeal
• 35 g granulated sugar
• 5 g baking soda
• 4 g salt
• 17 g caraway seeds
• 70 g cold unsalted butter, cut into chunks
• 58 g whole egg
• 100 g dark raisins

62 Pastry Arts
 6 7
Place the round into the prepared pan and
flatten to fit.
• Melted butter, for brushing top (optional)
1. To make the ‘buttermilk’, mix the whole
milk with the lemon juice and let sit at
room temperature for 20 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 400˚F. Lightly grease
an 8” cast iron skillet with vegetable oil.
3. Whisk the flours, cornmeal, sugar, baking
soda, salt, and caraway seeds together.
Cut the cold butter into the dry ingredients
until no large butter chunks are left. Add
the egg and the ‘buttermilk’ to the dry
ingredients and mix until just combined,
adding the raisins towards the end of the
mixing process. (It is prudent to hold a bit
of the ‘buttermilk’ back to see if you will
. need it all, as sometimes the dough can
.
. Pastry Arts
Cut a ½” deep cross into the dough.
be too wet.) If the dough is too crumbly,
just add a bit more milk (or ‘buttermilk’ if
you have extra made) to bring the dough
together.
4. On a well-floured surface, knead the
dough slightly to make sure it holds
together and then shape it into a loose
round. Place the round into the prepared
pan and flatten to fit. Cut a ½” deep cross
into the dough. Bake the bread for about
35 minutes, or until it is golden brown
and a skewer comes out clean.
5. Remove the bread from the oven and
immediately brush with melted butter
(optional). After the bread is slightly cool,
enjoy it with butter or preserves.
63
 8

Remove the bread from

the oven and immediately
brush with melted butter
(optional).

After the bread is slightly Photo credit: Ciril Hitz

cool, enjoy it with butter
or preserves.
Chef Susan Lagalle is an associate
instructor in the International
Baking & Pastry Institute at
Johnson & Wales University in
Providence, R.I. Previously the
Executive Pastry Chef of TAJ
Boston, she has also worked
in a variety of restaurants and
luxury hotels, including The Ritz-
Carlton in both San Francisco
and Boston. Chef Lagalle has
attended professional classes
by world renowned chefs such
as Frank Haasnoot and Laurent
Branlard. She is passionate
about lifelong learning and
passing her experiences to a new
generation of pastry chefs. She is a
graduate of the Johnson & Wales
University’s baking and pastry
arts baccalaureate program and
the lead advisor to the program’s
Pastry Arts Club.

64 Pastry Arts
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there we are.
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Profile

Peter yuen
World Traveler, Viennoiserie
Expert & Pursuer of
the Perfect Croissant
By Tish Boyle

66 Pastry Arts
 C
hicago-based Pastry Chef Peter Yuen is known for
his expertise in Viennoiserie – laminated doughs, in
particular. In fact, he teaches lamination techniques
at classes in culinary schools all over the world.
He’s been to 28 countries in the past four years,
including Kazakhstan, Singapore, Mainland China,
Taiwan, Germany, France, Australia and Sweden. Chef
Yuen recently took time out of his busy schedule to speak with us, reflecting
on his early days in pastry, how he came to be obsessed with the perfect
croissant, and what the next big trends might be in the world of Viennoiserie.

say, “Hey, we shipped your product down to

The Q&a
when and how did you first get
interested in pastry?
Well, my father opened a bakery in Chicago
in 1982, and I worked there since I was 12.
I was always interested in lamination and played
around with it a lot. Then, in 1996, I decided I
wanted to go out on my own, and I opened a
wholesale bakery business.
Tampa, Florida.” And it would take two days
to get down there, via truck, and I had no idea
what the temperature of the truck was. So that
was the big learning curve that hit me in the
wholesale business. And I had to conquer it.
Back then there were no computers to ‘Google’
things, and I really didn’t know what the hell I
was doing.

was that a success?

No. I made a lot of mistakes. I was young and

a little bit cocky and I thought I knew it all. The
biggest mistakes I made had to do with the
shelf life of the end product. I had been used to
doing retail bakery sales my whole life and now,
all of a sudden I’m doing wholesale, and this
was a big change. I literally did not know when
the customer would be eating my product, so
I would get a phone call from the company
that I had supplied product to, and they would

Pastry Arts 67

So I ended up calling the American Institute
of Baking in Kansas, and I told them that I had
a couple of problems and I asked if they could
help me. And they were very nice and put me
in touch with one of their instructors. The
instructor asked me what product I was having
the problem with, and I told him that I was doing
a package of soft dozen dinner rolls, similar to
Hawaiian rolls. So then he asked me if I had a
problem putting in preservatives. So, I asked
him about that, and he gave me the names of
some preservatives I could use and told me
to do some research on them to decide what
I wanted to use. He also suggested I look at
the packaged rolls at the supermarket and see
68 Pastry Arts
what they were using for preservatives. I saw
the majority of them used calcium propionate,
which is an anti-molding agent. And you have
to be careful about using it – you can only use a
certain percentage of it in your dough, because
too much of it can be harmful for human
consumption.
So then I asked him about my second
problem. One of the biggest products I was
selling was a chiffon cake, which we made into
a filled roll with a buttercream filling. And we
had it in different flavors and we would package
it and then ship it out. So the instructor asked
me if I knew about pH levels. So of course I
didn’t, so he said, well, why don’t you go out
and buy yourself a pH meter? A pH meter is
a tool that you dip into your batter in order to
check the pH level. And if you’re in a certain
range, then you’re okay. But of course he also
recommended another form of preservative
that would work well in cakes. And another
thing he recommended was putting an oxygen
absorber into the packaging which would
ensure that everything would be okay with
the product until it was opened and exposed
to oxygen. So that’s what I learned from that
whole experience — about the shelf life of
products. And ever since then, everything I do
is observed with a little bit more about how to
use no preservatives at all, but still be able to
maximize the shelf life of a product. Instead of
chemicals, now I am committed to using natural
ingredients and processes to help extend shelf
life of baked goods. One of the tricks I learned
along the way was to add a little bit of the old
dough to the new dough. Not only does this add
flavor, but I also knew that adding old dough to
new dough also adds shelf life to the product.
The old dough contains a lot of deactivated
yeast – yeast that has already died out – and
this provides an environment that is acidic and
that is not as friendly for mold to grow that
quickly. So that’s something that I learned, and
when I make croissants, not only do I want to
make them delicious, but I want them to stay
delicious for a longer period of time.
So what did you do once the
wholesale bakery failed?
Well, when I started my wholesale bread bakery
business back in 1996, it was my intention
actually to get out of the retail bakery business.
I didn’t want to work for my dad, and I wanted
to do my own thing in a way, so I took on a
bank loan of $125,000 and I also discovered
credit cards, and I ended up adding on another
$50,000-plus to my debt. So, technically, I was
about $200,000 in debt, which was not good.
The story is that in 1997 when my wholesale
business failed, I was forced to go back to work
at my father’s retail bakery for about a year
and a half. And during that period of time, I
was doing my own pastry, and trying to learn
what I could. I would watch Jacques Torres on
television and pick up some tips. I learned a lot
from PBS cooking shows. There was one show
called ‘Great Chefs’, where I saw Stanton Ho
doing some amazing pastry, which inspired me.
And one uneventful evening, I was browsing
in the cooking section of a Barnes & Nobles
bookstore, and came across a book called Grand
Finales – your book! That was a real revelation
to me — I was shocked to see that pastry chefs
would get so much recognition! That was the
moment that turned me into a true pastry
fan. I also read Pastry Art & Design magazine,
where I saw a feature on Jacquy Pfeiffer and
Sebastien Cannone, who had just opened the
French Pastry School in Chicago. So I called
Jacquy and he answered the phone and told
me the classes started the following week. So I
decided to add on another $13,000 to my debt
and go to the French Pastry School.
Pastry Arts 69
Creating demand
and smart
marketing is
definitely part
of having a
successful bakery
business.

70 Pastry Arts
and where did you work after you
graduated?
Well, Jacquy Pfeiffer introduced me to Keegan
Gerhard, who had just gotten the job as Pastry
Chef at the Four Seasons in Chicago, and I
became his first hire. So I was the highest-
ranking Pastry Cook possible there before you
become an Assistant Pastry Chef. So I worked
for about a year with Keegan that way, and
then I realized that I wasn’t making enough
money to cover my loan payments. So I had
to get another job, which turned out to be a
full-time job at the Sofitel Chicago Magnificent
Mile -- they were about to open, and they
were hiring a baker. So for two years I was very
much immersed in pastry making. I was the
Head Baker at the Sofitel. At the Four Seasons,
however, they had a full-time baker. Keegan
would occasionally ask me to take over for the
Four Seasons baker when he was off. Once the
baker at the Four Seasons was on vacation and
I took over as the overnight baker for about a
week. One day the Executive Sous Chef came
in to talk to me and he said, “Peter, you’re doing
a great job, but we can’t have you doing it at
this level.” I said, “Huh?” He said the problem
was that their baker, who was coming back in
a few days, wouldn’t be able to do what I was
doing. “What you’re doing is at a much higher
level than he is capable of.” So he basically
asked me to dial it down a little bit.
Before I was hired, the French guys working
there actually gave me a few little secret tests
to see if I was up to the job. One day they said
to me that the hotel was doing a promotion
where they were giving away breakfast to taxi
drivers in the city. So since I was applying for
the position of Head Baker, they wanted me to
handle the breakfasts. So I had three days to do
this -- somehow I was able to schedule myself
so that I had a day off from the Four Seasons
to work on this. I was able to pump out about
1,000 croissants, about 800 pain au chocolat
and about 1,000 danishes for the taxi drivers
that day, all by myself in three days. So I passed
my test! And I got the job at the Sofitel as Head
Baker, which actually paid more than the Four
Seasons job did for a pastry cook.
In 2004, I took over my father’s bakery. It
was not my idea to buy the bakery in the first
place, but a lot of other family members at the
time said to me, “Come on, you’re the only son,
you should take charge of the bakery.” I had
this fear then, because in the Chinese culture,
when something is passed down to you, you
better not screw it up, and that’s basically why
I didn’t want it. But my dad gave me a really
good deal on the place, so I said okay. I called
it ‘La Patisserie P’. Everyone thinks the ‘P’ is
for Peter, but actually it’s for ‘passion’, as in ‘a
passion for pastry’.
Pastry Arts 71
how did you get so focused on
laminated doughs?
Well, one reason had to do with Yves Thuries,
the double M.O.F., who came to stay at the
Sofitel while I was working there. I was off
when he came, but evidently after he ate the
breakfast pastry that morning, he came back to
the kitchen to meet me, but I wasn’t there. He
had eaten one of my croissants, and he was so
impressed that he came wanted to congratulate
the baker for doing such a good job on it. In fact,
he told someone at the hotel that they were so
lucky to have hired a French baker. And he said
it was the best croissant that
he had had outside of Paris,
ever. This came to me straight
from the general manager
who had been hanging out
with him that night. So that
really motivated me. The
other thing that motivated
me was back around the time
72 Pastry Arts
I graduated from the French Pastry School,
Jacquy Pfeiffer gave me two pieces of advice:
The first one was to be humble. (I guess I was
a little bit too cocky.) He also told me to find
my niche. He said, “Don’t try to be a jack-of-
all-trades.” And of course I said, “But Chef, I’m
good at everything, isn’t that a good thing?” And
he said, “Yeah, but you’re going to be one of
hundreds of thousands of chefs who want to be
good at everything. And no one will remember
you.” So when Yves Thuries complimented me
on my croissants, I immediately remembered
this advice and realized I had found my niche
– laminated products, particularly croissants,
were my specialty!
I like to control the
direction of all layers on
my laminated baked goods.
Do you have to be good at math to knowledge or experience to pull off their
dream of becoming a bakery owner. So I help
understand laminated doughs?
many of them by counseling them to make the
right decisions. I train them one-on-one on
I think so! Back in college, I majored in electrical the essential skills, and even help with menu
engineering and minored in architecture for the planning. Other jobs involve training bakers for
first two years. I find that by using mathematics luxury hotel chains. There are some places that
I can explain almost everything. About five I have never thought I would have a chance to
years ago, I finally developed my Universal go to!
Number System, which uses numbers to
calculate and manage the lamination process
during production. It gives the operator more
accountability, especially when it comes to
doing formulation and creating new products.
But don’t worry too much – baking is not rocket
science. Good math only makes good sense!

what are the most common problems

that you see with croissants?

I recently rated the croissant as one of the

three most difficult bread products to make.
This is due to their complexity in three major
areas: 30% on lamination to create layers; 30%
in aesthetic presentation; and 40% in choice of
ingredients / mixing / proofing / baking. The
most common problem with making croissants
is not having an environment that’s the right
temperature. Almost all aspects within the
process of making croissants are controlled
by the environment. If your kitchen is too
warm, then lamination, shaping and proofing
the croissants will be impossible to complete
correctly.

you teach lamination in classes at

culinary schools all over the world.
Do you also do consulting for private
bakeries?

Yes, for the most part, I have been consulting

new bakery owners in getting the right skills to
start a business. There are many entrepreneur
wannabees out there. But many lack the

Pastry Arts 73
exotic patterned croissants are
extremely popular right now. what
are some types you do?
Now I must say, I was not the first to come
up with bi-colored croissant. So I tried to do
the next best thing, by introducing designer
patterns to the making of ordinary croissants.
The first exotic pattern was the leopard skin.
This was followed by the tiger stripe croissant.
After that, I started doing wood grain patterns,
and they became very popular. Eventually I
went back to different layer presentations. I
guess I am a bit of control freak! I like to control
the direction of all layers on my laminated
baked goods.
74 Pastry Arts
what other viennoiserie are trendy?
That is the REAL million dollar question –
everyone is trying to come up with the best
answer for this! Let’s see – within the last six
years, the marketplace has seen: the Cronut!
The Croffin! And the Croclair! Also many multi-
color croissants with imaginative fillings. The
list goes on and on! I don’t think I need to
invent the wheel too much right now, but you
can see from the Cronut – there were people
who were doing things just like it – frying
laminated dough – years and years before the
Cronut debuted. But what Dominique Ansel
did was, he added a filling, and dressed it up
like a gourmet donut. And he did a great job
of marketing it. And he’s in the middle of New
York City, which is a gigantic market, so by
word of mouth, everybody knew about the
Cronut very quickly. And he was smart because
he would sell out of them — he created a
shortage, which made people more determined
than ever to go back and get one. And it’s the
same thing with this hot bakery called Lune in
Melbourne, Australia, which has been named
the #1 laminated Viennoiserie shop in the
world. And everybody who comes through
the door can only buy six items. And they’re
not cheap either — one almond croissant is 11
Australian dollars. So that’s about eight U.S.
dollars for a croissant. A pistachio croissant is
13 Australian dollars, which is about 10 U.S.
dollars. It’s insane! And because you can only
buy six pieces, everybody buys six pieces.
And when you have over 200 people each
day and everybody’s buying six pieces, they’re
making a lot of money. So creating demand and
smart marketing is definitely part of having a
successful bakery business.
Almost all aspects within
the process of making
croissants are controlled
by the environment.
If your kitchen is too
warm, then lamination,
shaping and proofing
the croissants will be
impossible to complete
correctly.
Pastry Arts 75
 I think we will see some good new
working tools to help bakers create
interesting shapes in Viennoiserie.

what are some of the future

trends you see on the horizon in
viennoiserie and pastry in general?

I guess I must answer this question. I think in

general, we will be seeing new and interesting
baking molds for Viennoiserie products. Just
like mousse cakes, both large entremets and
petits gateau, with the use of some fancy
designed silicone molds. With these products,
everyone can create beautiful Viennoiserie
products. Also, I think we will see some good
new working tools to help bakers create
interesting shapes in Viennoiserie. I am on top
of both of these trends – it could be my second Photos Courtesy of Compote Pastry School & Taken
career after being a baker! by Jerome Flayosc @g_rom.photo

76 Pastry Arts
 IT’S COMING…

THE OFFICIAL PODCAST OF

PASTRY ARTS MAGAZINE
Hosted by Tish Boyle
Hear from guests like Ron Ben-Israel, Jason Licker, Emily Luchetti,
Antonio Bachour, Jen Yee and more as we explore their
professional journey, insights and advice.

pastryartsmag.com/podcast
Recipe

warm apple
Pomegranate Tart
Vanilla Crème Fraîche Gelato
By Deborah Racicot

78 Pastry Arts
•
I love this dessert because it plays with two different textures and
temperatures. The tart is warm, while all the toppings are cool, fresh and
uncooked. And it’s served with a classic flavor, vanilla. My sous chef and I
came up with the idea of it as a riff on a caramel apple, with the apple layer
on the bottom and the caramel custard on top.

Yield: 12 tarts

almond sucré
280 g 10X confectioners’ sugar •
baKed caramel FillinG
750 g heavy cream, divided
• 453 g cold unsalted butter, diced • 24 g all-purpose flour
• 3 large whole eggs • 675 g granulated sugar
• 1 tsp vanilla extract • 170 g unsalted butter
• ⅛ tsp salt • 6 large whole eggs
• 705 g all-purpose flour • 3 large egg yolks
• 112 g almond flour • 9 g salt

1. In a mixing bowl with the paddle 1. In a bowl, mix half of the cream with the
attachment, mix together the 10X sugar, flour; set aside.
and cold diced butter. Cream the mixture 2. In a large pot, make a dry caramel with
very well until soft and creamy, scraping the sugar. Once the sugar has completely
the sides down occasionally. Add the caramelized to a golden color, add the
eggs, vanilla and salt to the butter mixture butter and stir to emulsify the mixture.
and cream it again until completely 3. Add the remaining 375 g heavy cream
incorporated, and very smooth and shiny, (the part without the flour) to the caramel.
scraping down the bowl occasionally to Once emulsified, add the cream and flour
make sure everything is incorporated. mixture and mix well. Cool in a bain marie
2. Add the flours and slowly mix until in an ice bath.
blended, then scrape the bowl down and 4. Once the mixture is cool, add the eggs,
mix on medium speed until super-soft yolks and salt. Mix well, then strain through
and mixed well. Place the dough onto a a chinois. Set the mixture aside.
parchment-lined sheet tray and wrap with (It can be made up to 3 days ahead.)
plastic wrap. Allow to chill overnight, or at
least 5 hours, until dough is firm and set.
3. Once the dough is completely chilled,
roll it out on a lightly floured surface
to a thickness of 1.5 mm. Cut into 6”
diameter disks. Line 12 #100 tart rings and
refrigerator the unbaked shells for 1 hour
to rest the dough.
4. Bake the shells at 3250F on high fan, for
approximately 10 minutes, or until golden
brown. Set aside to cool.

Pastry Arts 79
 apple compote
• 6-8 Granny Smith apples, peeled and
cored, scraps reserved
• 68 g light brown sugar
• 68 g granulated sugar
• 2 g ground cinnamon
• 2 g ground cardamom
• 2 g ground ginger
• 2 g salt
• 14 g cornstarch
• 1.5 g citric acid

1. Dice the apples small, about ¼”, and weigh

out 800g of the diced apples.
2. In a bowl, toss the 800 g apples with the
sugars and spices. Allow them to macerate
for 24 hours.
3. The next day, place the apples in a
medium-sized pot, and cook them on low
heat until al dente. Make a slurry with the
cornstarch and pour it into the apples and
cook them until the starch cooks out.
Add the citric acid and stir well.
4. Pour the apples out onto a sheet pan lined
with parchment and cool completely. Set
aside. (This can be made up to 3 days in 2. Mix together the sugar and ice cream
advance.) stabilizer. Add to the cream mixture along
with the milk powder, dry glucose and
vanilla crème Fraîche Gelato liquid glucose. Bring to a soft simmer.
3. In a bowl, mix the whole eggs with the
• 832 g whole milk trimoline and salt. Temper into the cream
• 166 g heavy cream mixture and cook, using the anglaise
• 332 g crème fraîche method, to 180˚F. Pour into a bain marie,
• 1 vanilla bean and cool completely in ice bath.
• 184 g vanilla sugar 4. Allow base to chill for 24 hours to age.
• 4 g ice cream stabilizer The next day, strain, and spin.
• 90 g dry milk powder
• 150 g dry glucose apple puree
• 66 g liquid glucose
• 150 g whole eggs • Reserved apple scraps from above
• 32 g trimoline
• ⅛ tsp salt 1. Place the reserved apple scraps in a pot
with just a bare minimum of water and
1. Place milk, heavy cream, crème fraîche and cook until tender. Blend well until very
scraped vanilla bean into a pot. smooth, then pass through a chinois.

80 Pastry Arts

apple pomeGranate sauce
• 250 g Apple Puree (from above)
• 250 g Pom Wonderful juice (concentrate)
• 75 g granulated sugar
• 20 g cornstarch
• 1 g citric acid
• 1 g salt
1. Place the puree, Pom juice, sugar and
cornstarch in a pot, and cook until
thickened. Add the citric acid and salt and
stir to combine. Cool on ice, and set aside
until ready to use.
assembly
1. Preheat oven to 3000F
2. Put 40 g of the Apple Compote in each
baked tart shell, then pour the Baked
Caramel Filling on to fill shells. Bake with
fan on high for 10-15 minutes, or until set.
Cool completely.
merinGue toppinG
• 100 g fresh egg whites
• 150 g granulated sugar
1. Place the whites and sugar in a mixing
bowl, and cook over simmering water until
mixture reaches160˚F.
2. Put the bowl on the mixer stand fitted with
the whip attachment, and whip on high
speed until completely cool.
3. Using a #803 plain piping tip, pipe the
meringue on top of the tarts, piping 6
dollops on the outside, and 3 on the inside.
Lightly torch it to golden brown.
Set aside.
Pastry Arts 81
 to serve
• 2 Honeycrisp apples
• Pinch of ascorbic acid
• 1 pomegranate
• Micro hyssop leaves
• Ground tart crumbs
1. Peel the apples and, using a #18-21 melon
baller, scoop the apple to make spheres.
Place them in a solution of water and
ascorbic acid so that they don’t oxidize.
(If you don’t have ascorbic acid, you can
use purchased apple juice in place of the
mixture.)
2. Pick the seeds out of the pomegranate and
set aside.
3. Place a tart on the plate, and garnish the
top of the tart with fresh apple spheres, a
sprinkling of pomegranate seeds, and micro
hyssop leaves.
4. Pour a dot of the sauce the size of a silver
dollar onto the plate, sprinkle with ground
up tart crumbs, and a scoop of the Vanilla
Crème Fraîche Gelato.
82 Pastry Arts
deborah racicot
Executive Pastry Chef, Locanda Verde
Restaurant, New York, NY
Early Influence
I had many – Julia Child, Wok with Yan
(television show), Chocolatier Magazine,
Bon Appetit Magazine.
Signature Style
Seasonal, simple, elegant and memory
driven.
Favorite Down-Home Dessert
Tiramisú.
Inspiration for New Recipes
Meeting new people from different
cultures –
I am introduced to new flavors which
is always inspiring, and this leads me to
creating new desserts that are familiar, but
new.
Pastry Idol
I have so many pastry chefs that I truly
admire in the industry, that it is so hard
to say. At this point in my career, I love to
continue to learn from all, and see what
new ideas are always being brought to the
table to work with.
Best Career Advice
You should be willing to go above and
beyond the job expectations. This is how
you are going to become better than
the rest. It is always about the details.
Be that team player, be positive, and
remain passionate. Do not allow yourself
to become dispensable. This is what will
make you different and allows you to
move forward in your career.
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Recipe

CiTruS
PavLova By Angel R. Betancourt

84 Pastry Arts
 P avlova has to be one of my very favorite desserts to eat and make. It’s
simple yet fragile. I always research desserts I want to make and when
I discovered that pavlova was named after a ballerina, my creative
mind could not stop thinking about how perfect the name is. Pavlova
is delicate, beautiful, stylish and feminine, but was she married? So,
I came up with a veil made of passion fruit to finish a fantasy dessert.
Yield: 4 servings

pavlova passion Fruit espuma

• 120 g egg whites
• 200 g confectioners’ sugar
• 15 g white vinegar
• 10 g cornstarch
1. Whip the egg whites, adding the
confectioners’ sugar in three additions and
whipping until stiff peaks form. Add the
white vinegar and fold in the cornstarch.
2. Spread on Silpat and bake at 200˚F for 50-
60 minutes.
lime-yuZu cream
• 205 g lime juice
• 100 g yuzu juice
• 433 g granulated sugar
• 333 g whole eggs
• 605 g cold butter, diced
1. Mix lime and yuzu juice, sugar and eggs.
Heat in a double boiler, stirring constantly
with a wooden spoon, until it starts to
thicken and the mix covers the back of the
spoon. With the help of a hand blender, add
the diced cold butter, and mix until smooth.
• 250 g passion fruit puree
• 150 g granulated sugar
• 50 g water
• 5 g Versawhip 600k
• 4 g xanthan gum
1. Pour the puree, sugar and water into the jar
of a Vitamix blender. Blend on high speed
for 1 minute, then add the Versawhip and
xanthan gum and blend on high speed once
again.
2. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand
mixer and, using the whisk attachment,
whip on high speed until stiff peaks form.
manGo Fluid Gel
• 150 g granulated sugar
• 5 g agar agar
• 500 g mango puree
• 2 g citric acid
1. Mix sugar and agar agar together. Add the
sugar mixture to the mango puree and bring
to a boil. Boil for 30 seconds and remove
from heat. Pour the mix onto a clean sheet
pan and let set in the refrigerator for at least
2 hours.
2. Process in a Vita-Prep with the citric acid.

Pastry Arts 85
 coconut oil powder
• 120 g coconut oil
• 80 g maltodextrin
• 10 g anti-humidity snow sugar
• 2 g fine salt

1. Place coconut oil, maltodextrin, snow sugar

and salt into a Robot Coupe and process
until it resembles snow or sand.
platinG
• Diced fresh pineapple
• Diced kiwi
• Edible flowers
• Micro greens
1. Pipe the Lime-Yuzu Cream on the plate and
cover with broken pieces of the Pavlova.
2. Pipe the Mango Foam and Mango Fluid
Gel on top, and add diced fresh pineapple
and kiwi. Decorate with flowers and micro
greens.
anGel r.
betancourt
Executive Pastry Chef, The Ocean Club,
a Four Seasons Resort, and Dune By
Jean Georges, Nassau, Grand Bahama,
Bahamas
Early Influence
My mom! And a Sesame Street cookbook
when I was a kid. Later, Chocolate Fusion
by Frederic Bau was my cooking bible.
Signature Style
No rules.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert

I love tarts. Also, my mom used to do
a grape jam that I would spread on
everything – now I make it and it brings
me home.

Inspiration for New Recipes

Inspiration is everywhere, from nature to
paintings and books.

Pastry Idol
Albert Adria and Carles Mampel.

Best Career Advice

Cook without ingredients – cook in your
head. Learn all your basic rules and then
be free and break them all!

86 Pastry Arts
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Pastry Arts 87
Recipe

CoCoNuT
MaTCha
By Robert Nieto

88 Pastry Arts
 W meyer lemon curd
hile planning this dessert, I looked at what was in season and what
would pair well with coconut and matcha flavors. I saw Meyer
lemon and huckleberry and thought they would be a perfect
match. The flavor components balance out well and are the
perfect combination of creaminess, acidity, and earthiness.
Yield: 4-6 servings

hucKleberry Jam
• 150 g Meyer lemon juice • 40 g granulated sugar
• 60 g granulated sugar, divided • 1.5 g apple pectin
• 50 g whole egg • 150 g huckleberries
• 20 g egg yolk • 75 g water
• 0.75 g citric acid • 2 g citric acid

1. In a small pot, combine lemon juice and half 1. Combine the sugar and pectin and set aside.
of the sugar and bring to boil. 2. Heat the berries, water and citric acid over
2. Mix egg, egg yolk, and remaining sugar in a low heat. Stir in the sugar-pectin mixture
small bowl. and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Reserve the jam
3. Temper the yolk mixture into the lemon juice until needed.
mixture and cook until thickened. Strain.
Pipe into 1” sphere Fleximolds. Freeze.
brown butter Financier
coconut cream • 100 g granulated sugar
• 425 g heavy cream • 50 g almond flour
• 70 g coconut macaroons, toasted • 33 g brown rice flour
• 1 sheet gelatin, bronze, bloomed • 83 g egg whites
• 120 g white chocolate • 83 g browned butter
• 1 g salt • 1 g salt

1. Bring cream to a boil. Stir in coconut
macaroons and infuse for 20 minutes.
2. Bring infusion back to a simmer. Stir in
drained gelatin. Strain over chocolate and
mix until homogenous. Chill for a few hours.
3. Whip the cream to soft-medium peaks.
Reserve in refrigerator.
1. Place dry ingredients in mixer on low speed.
Add the egg whites, then add the butter in a
slow stream, mixing until combined.
2. Spread the mixture on a sprayed and lined
1/8 sheet pan. Bake at 320˚F for 6 minutes.
Cool. Chill for 20 minutes.
3. Cut into 2” rounds. Reserve until needed.

Pastry Arts 89
 matcha shortbread
• 250 g unsalted butter
• 75 g confectioners’ sugar
• 2 g salt
• 250 g all-purpose flour
• 20 g matcha powder

1. Cream the butter until soft. Stir in the

confectioners’ sugar and salt. Add flour and
matcha powder and mix.
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into
a rectangle form to 1/8” thickness. Using a
wheel cutter and ruler, cut out 4” squares.
3. Place dough on a half sheet pan that has been
sprayed and lined. Freeze for 20 minutes.
4. Bake at 325˚F for 6-8 minutes. Chill before
serving.

chocolate shells
• Colored cocoa butter in Alabaster White,
Tropical Green and Indigo Blue
• Cacao Barry Blanc Satin chocolate, tempered

1. Brush a streak of the colored cocoa butters

into six 3” spheres of a polycarbonate
chocolate mold and allow to set for a few
minutes. Fill shells with chocolate, then
invert to remove excess. Reinvert and allow
to set.

assembly
• Indigo blue chocolate disc garnish
• Micro flowers

1. Unmold chocolate shells and invert. Pipe a

small amount of Coconut Cream in bottom.
Place Meyer Lemon Curd insert on top. Pipe
Coconut Cream on top. Spoon or pipe jam
on top. Pipe on another layer of coconut
cream. Place 2” round financier on top to
cover. Invert and sphere on top of matcha
shortbread. Decorate with indigo blue
chocolate disc and micro flowers.

90 Pastry Arts
robert
“buttercup”
nieto
Pastry Chef, Jackson Family Wines,
Santa Rosa, CA

Early Influence
When I was young, I watched ‘Great
Chefs’ and was heavily influenced by
watching the professional chefs working
their craft. When I saw the episode with
Master Pastry Chef Chris Northmore, I
knew I wanted to do pastries.

Signature Style
My style has evolved to ‘classic with a
modern twist’, although I’m sure it will
continue to change.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert

German Chocolate Cake.

Inspiration for New Recipes

I get my inspiration for new recipes from
the seasonal ingredients in our garden
at Kendall Jackson Winery. I like to walk
through the gardens to get ideas and
inspiration.

Pastry Idol
Too many to list! I admire everyone’s hard
work and craft. I love looking at other
chef’s work and creations.

Best Career Advice

Work hard and learn the basics. Practice
it and master it! I would also recommend
learning savory as well as pastry to help
you become more well-rounded. It will
also help for cross-referencing later in
your career.

Pastry Arts 91
Recipe

Chocolate
Pistachio Bar
By Renee Cade Sponsored by

92 Pastry Arts
 D
ark chocolate and pistachio have always been some of
my favorite components in desserts. I wanted to create
a petit four that encompasses the fresh, nutty and
subtle fruity flavor of the pistachio and the robust and
smooth flavor of the TCHO 81% dark chocolate. This
petit four pairs well with wines, cocktails and coffee.
Yield: 45 petit four bars

pate sucrée • 190 g whole eggs

• 295 g unsalted butter
• 340 g granulated sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 10 ml vanilla extract
• 970 g bread flour, sifted
1. Cream the butter and granulated sugar
together.
2. Add eggs slowly.
3. Add vanilla extract.
4. Add sifted bread flour in thirds.
5. Chill the dough and let rest for at least 2
hours.
6. When ready, sheet the dough to 3 and line
a half sheet pan with dough, including the
sides. Lightly dock and par-bake in a 350˚F
oven, about 10 to 15 minutes.
pistachio bar
• 190 g unsalted butter
• 82 g granulated sugar
• 190 g almond or pistachio flour
• 32 g all-purpose flour
• 250 g pistachio paste
1. Cream the butter and granulated sugar
together.
2. Add a little of the eggs first, then alternate
adding the eggs and the dry ingredients
(almond flour and all- purpose flour) to the
creamed butter and granulated sugar.
3. Add the pistachio paste last.
4. Pour mixture into the par-baked sweet
dough tart shell in the sheet pan and smooth
with an offset spatula to level the pistachio
bar mixture.
5. Bake at 350˚F for approximately 25 minutes.
Cool and freeze until ready to use.
81% tcho chocolate mousse
• 400 g 81% TCHO chocolate
• 285 g egg yolks
• 197 g granulated sugar
• 900 g heavy cream

Pastry Arts 93
1. Melt 81% TCHO chocolate hexagons in a
double boiler.
2. Begin beating egg yolks with a whip
attachment in the electric mixer. Make a
sugar syrup with the sugar and some water
and cook to 250˚F. Immediately pour over
the egg yolks in a steady stream, beating
continuously until the egg mixture doubles
and cools.
3. In a mixing bowl, whip heavy cream to soft
peaks. Set aside until ready to use.
4. Fold in chocolate into the egg mixture.
5. Gently fold whipped cream into the egg
and chocolate mixture. (Mousse should be
creamy.) Set in the cooler until ready to pipe.

Garnish

• Pistachio nuts, shelled

• Sea salt
• 81% TCHO chocolate

1. Toast pistachios with sea salt and chop.

2. Temper 81% TCHO chocolate and, using
a piping bag, create a delicate, lattice-like
pattern on a large acetate sheet. Sprinkle the
chopped roasted sea salt pistachio before
the chocolate sets.

Final assembly

• Powdered snow
• 100 g TCHO Drinking Chocolate Crumbles

1. Cut the pistachio bar into 2.5 cm x 5 cm

rectangles.
2. Use a straight edge and dust a quarter of the
bar with powdered snow.
3. Pipe the 81% TCHO Chocolate Mousse with
a flat tip on top of the pistachio bar. Break
a piece of the chocolate lattice and place
on the chocolate mousse at an angle. Finish
with sprinkling TCHO drinking chocolate
crumbles on the chocolate mousse.

94 Pastry Arts
renee cade
Regional Sales Manager, Foodservice,
TCHO, Berkeley, California

Early Influence
Baking chocolate crinkles with my
mother at a young age. I was enamored
by her ability to keep the powdery sugar
portions of the cookie so clean and white
and all the sizes of the cookies consistent
and delicious!

Signature Style
Generally, modern twists on classics –
clean lines, not too fussy, but with an
unexpected element in the dessert –
whether it’s a flavor component or in the
visual presentation itself.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert

An Okinawan doughnut called Sata
Andagi – a seemingly simple doughnut,
but difficult to perfect. It’s a childhood
favorite of mine.

Inspiration for New Recipes

Traveling, visiting museums and walking
the farmers’ market always make me
think of ways to express flavors in
different forms.

Pastry Idol
My mentor, Executive Pastry Chef Roy
Pell at the Phoenician in Arizona. Roy was
tough, but always supportive in anything
I pursued.

Best Career Advice

Keep at it. It’s always a bonus when you
receive critiques, because it means you
have shown potential to become better at
your craft.

Pastry Arts 95
Technique

freeform Blood
orange Soufflé
With Cardamom, Honey & Ancho

By Scott Geurin, CEC,

and Derek Bissonnette
Photography by Derek Bissonnette

96 Pastry Arts
 T
he inspiration behind this unique soufflé is the sweet and
tart citrus flavors that we savor to bridge the passage
from Winter into Spring. Like the changing of seasons, this
dish transitions between richer flavors such as cardamom,
chocolate and ancho, to brighter seasonal flavors of honey
and blood orange. Using the ingredients at Modernist Pantry, we set
forth a challenge to prepare a soufflé that could be served without the
aid of its traditional serving vessel – the ramekin. The secret technique
is to stabilize the egg whites using Versawhip, a modern ingredient with
its base in soy protein. The reinforced soufflé was able to rise with strong
enough walls to allow us to unmold it and be completely free formed.
We also wanted to use a head-to- tail approach, as in many recipes that
savory chefs prepare. So we candied the Blood Orange Peel and prepared
recipes that added great depth of flavor and texture, with zero waste.
Yield: 8 servings
Special Equipment: Immersion circulator, Pacojet

Compressed Cardamom 4. Combine the cocoa powder, flour, baking

ChoColate Cake
• 105 g eggs (2 large eggs)
• 300 g granulated sugar
• 115 g vegetable oil
• 70 g cocoa powder (high quality)
• 165 g all-purpose flour
• 6 g baking powder
• 4 g ground cardamom
• 105 g heavy cream
• 200 g whole milk
1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. Whisk the eggs, sugar and vegetable oil in a
stand mixer on medium speed.
3. Whisk for 10 minutes, or until sugar is
dissolved and mixture is nice, white, and
creamy.
powder, and cardamom and sieve.
5. Combine the heavy cream and milk
together.
6. Alternately add the dry and liquid to the
whipped eggs until all combined. [1, 2]
7. Place mixture into a parchment-lined ½
sheet tray [3] and bake for 10-12 minutes,
or until a toothpick can be inserted, and it
comes out clean and cool.
8. Once cooled, cut the cake to fit into a
vacuum seal bag. Sandwich the chocolate
cake between two pieces of parchment
paper and slide the cake into the vacuum
bag. Vacuum seal the cake on high to
compress. [4]
9. Remove the cake from the bag and peel off
the parchment paper.
10. Cut out rounds with a 3” ring cutter [5] and
set aside.

Pastry Arts 97
 1

4 5

98 Pastry Arts
 Blood orange soufflé

Soufflé Base
6
• 500 g blood orange juice, freshly squeezed
(approximately 20 blood oranges; save peel
for sherbet)
• 40 g cornstarch

Soufflé
• 360 g egg whites
• 8 g Modernist Pantry Versawhip*
• 240 g granulated sugar
• 20 Orange Flavor Drops*
7
• 8 rounds Compressed Cardamom
Chocolate Cake (from above)
• 226 g unsalted butter, room temperature
• 50 g cornstarch

1. In a heavy bottomed, medium pan, combine

the cornstarch and blood orange juice and
whisk until smooth. [6]
2. Place on medium heat and whisk until it
simmers. Cook for an additional 2 minutes.
[7, 8]

*Ingredients found at modernistpantry.com

Pastry Arts 99
 3. Remove from heat and place mixture into a
bowl to cool. Cover the mixture with plastic
wrap. Press the plastic wrap directly onto
the blood orange base to make sure it does
not form a skin. [9] (This base can be stored
and used for 3 days – it will make about 3
batches.)
4. To make the cornstarch coating for the
paper ramekins, simply cream together the
butter and corn starch for 5 minutes, or
until smooth and light in color.
5. Preheat convection oven to 350°F.
6. On a very low speed in a stand mixer, whisk
9 the egg whites and the Versawhip. It’s
important to start slowly to create small,
uniform, sturdy air bubbles. Mix for 2-3
minutes, or until nice and frothy.

10
7. Slowly add the sugar until fully
incorporated. Whisk on medium speed for
10 minutes. [10]
8. Meanwhile, prep your ramekins: cut eight
4” by 12” strips of parchment paper.
Brush eight 3” wide ring molds with the
cornstarch and butter mixture. Brush both
sides of the parchment [108] and place the
parchment inside the ring. Finish remaining
ramekins and place a slice of cake in each
one. [11]
9. Once the whites are ready, in a separate
bowl whisk together 160 g of soufflé base
and the flavor drops. Add ¼ of the whites to
the base [12] and whisk together quickly to
avoid air loss from the meringue. Add this
mixture back to the whites [13] and gently
fold together.
10. Place the mixture in a disposable piping bag
[14] and cut a 2” hole. Be careful not to cut
too small a hole, so you are not forcing out
the air when piping. Pipe the mixture into
the lined ring cutter, piping it to the top of
the cutter. [15] Bake for 10 minutes.
11. Remove from oven, place on serving plate
and remove ring mold with tongs. [16]

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 11 12

13 14 15

16

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 17
18
Candied Blood orange peel
• 20 Blood Orange Peel, Reserved From
Soufflé Base
• 1500 ml water
• 1500 g granulated sugar, divided
1. Slice the rinds into ¼” strips. [17]
2. In a heavy bottomed stock pot, add cut
peels and cover with water. Bring to a boil,
shut off heat and allow to cool. Strain.
Repeat with fresh water 3-5 times, until the
rinds are softened and not bitter. [18]
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19
20
3. In the same pot, bring the water and 1 kg
of the sugar to a boil to dissolve sugar,
then re-add peels. Reduce to a simmer and
cook for 1 hour, or until it has thickened to
a syrup. [19] Strain and cool. Reserve the
remaining syrup for the sherbet recipe.
4. Once cool, place the candied peel on
a cooling rack on a sheet tray and dry
overnight.
5. Place the remaining 500 g sugar in a bowl,
and coat the dried peels with sugar. [20]
Place back on the cooling rack and dry
overnight.
Candied Blood orange sherBet
• 950 ml milk
• 300 g reserved candied rind syrup
• 4 lemons (zested and juiced)
• 50 g granulated sugar
• 6.25 g Perfect Sorbet (sorbet stabilizer)*
• 200 g Candied Blood Orange Rinds
1. Combine the milk, peel syrup and lemon
zest.
2. In a mixing bowl, combine the sugar and
Perfect Sorbet and whisk together until
combined. The sugar granules will coat
the Perfect Sorbet and assist with its
mixing.
3. Add the Perfect Sorbet mix to the milk and
bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and
place in the refrigerator. Let the milk cool
completely. If you skip this step, the milk
will curdle.
4. Once cool, strain and add lemon juice. Pour
500 g of the base into each Paco container,
add 100 g of the Candied Blood Orange
Peels to each container [21] and freeze
solid.
5. Once frozen, churn in Pacojet.
*Ingredients found at modernistpantry.com
22
21
Blood orange tuiles
• 100 g Candied Blood Orange Peels
• 45 g water
• 100 g unsalted butter, room temperature
• 100 g all-purpose flour
• 0.5 g salt
1. Preheat oven to 400°F.
2. In a blender, blend the candied orange
peels and water until the peels are coarsely
chopped. [22, 23]
3. Add the butter [24] and blend until semi-
smooth (there should be small bits of the
peel left in the mixture). Place the butter
in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle
attachment and mix on medium speed until
it begins to lighten in color, about 1 minute.
23 24
Pastry Arts 103
4. Sift the flour.
5. Turn the mixer to slow speed, then add all
the flour and salt at once. Mix just until
combined (do not overmix).
6. Using a small offset spatula, spread a 1/16”
thick strip of the batter on a non-stick
baking mat. [25] We like to clean one side
of the strip into a perfect rectangle and
have the other side be more organic. [26]
The orange peel pieces can make this tricky,
but we like the imperfections it makes in
the tuiles.
7. Bake until golden brown, and form into
whatever shape you like for the dish. [27]

25

26

27

104 Pastry Arts

honeY anCho Curd

• 340 g Ancho Reyes liqueur, divided

• 3 sheets PerfectaGel silver sheet gelatin,
160-bloom*
• 30 g blood orange juice
• 120 g egg yolks
• 175 g honey
• 226 g unsalted butter
• 5 g salt
28

1. In a small pot, bring 270 g of the Ancho

Reyes liqueur to a boil (the remaining
29
liqueur will be added after the curd has
been heated). Allow it to reduce by half
(135 g), about 2-3 minutes.
2. Using an immersion circulator, preheat the
bath to 167°F.
3. Add the gelatin sheets to a container of ice
cold water and allow it to bloom. (This is not
the water for the recipe, this water will be
discarded after the gelatin has bloomed.)
4. In a vacuum seal bag, place the reduced
Ancho Reyes liqueur, blood orange juice,
egg yolks, honey, gelatin, butter and salt.
Place the bag in an immersion circulator
that is set to 167°F for 30 minutes. [28]
5. Once the mixture has been cooked, pour
the contents into a blender [29] and blend
for 2 minutes.
6. Add the reserved 70 g Ancho Reyes liqueur
and pulse once or twice in the blender
7. Place the curd in a small sealed container
and allow it to cool completely, about 2
hours. The gelatin will need this time to set.
For plating purposes you can gently heat
the curd to thin it out.

*Ingredients found at modernistpantry.com

Pastry Arts 105

 30

plating

1. Place 2 tablespoons of the

gently heated curd in the
middle of the plate, tilt the
plate and pour out the excess
into a clean bowl. [30]
2. Place a few pieces of
chopped dried blood
orange peel in the curd for
decoration.
3. Remove the soufflé from
the oven and dust with
confectioners’ sugar.
4. Place the soufflé in the
center of the plate and place
a quenelle of the sherbet on
the center.
5. Garnish with the tuile and
serve.

106 Pastry Arts

 Join pastry greats and fellow
craftsmen at the only event
dedicated to the artisan baker.

JEREMEY PETER
GADOUAS YUEN

LAMINATED DOUGH 101 OUT OF THE BOX CROISSANTS

Learn what’s between those Redefine croissant! Challenge flavor,
flaky flavorful layers! appearance and your imagination.

A R T I S A N B A K ERY EX P O . C O M

MARCH 5-7, 2019 • LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER

Places

Ginger elizabeth
Chocolates Sacramento, California
www.gingerelizabeth.com

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Pastry Arts 109
110 Pastry Arts
GinGer & tom hahn,
owners
Company Mission
We believe in four primary principles
in order to achieve greatness in pastry
arts and as a small business: never skip
steps and always pay attention to the
details, constantly monitor products to
ensure freshness, always push yourself
to continue to learn and grow within the
craft, respect chocolate. We are honored
to be part of this tradition and proud to be
practicing classical techniques that have
been employed by many great chocolatiers
before us.

Signature Product
Palet D’Or bitter sweet chocolate from Peru
and our Salty Caramel Macaron.

Secret of Success
Humility, listening, learning, and resilience.

Shop’s Best Feature

The color pink (Ginger’s favorite color!).
The vertical layout of the store makes for
beautiful window displays. The cabinets are
specifically designed to let the chocolates
take center stage.

Pastry Arts 111

Places

Patisserie 46
& rose Street
Patisserie
Minneapolis, Minnesota
www.patisserie46.com

112 Pastry Arts

Pastry Arts 113
114 Pastry Arts
John Kraus &
eliZabeth rose,
owners
Company Mission
Our goal is to continue promoting the
values of haute patisserie throughout the
neighborhoods we are a part of. Our goal is to
make sure the craft continues forward through
education and participation, while maintaining
the highest standards of the Relais Desserts.

Signature Product
Viennoiserie, bread, confections and ice
cream.

Secret of Success
We allow our guests a chance to connect
and unplug by promoting an environment
to truly enjoy a moment, whether it be
with a croissant and coffee or a petit
gateaux, without pretense, while striving to
consistently offer the highest quality product.
Our entire team is our “employee of the
month”—their care and loyalty has become
the secret. It is due to their discipline that we
are able to offer our neighbors the experience
they seek, day in and day out. Consistency is
the most important factor in their return.

Shop’s Best Feature

Each location is a communal gathering place
where guests can enjoy our pastries and
create their own memorable moments.

Pastry Arts 115

Places

PreTTy
CooL
ice Cream
Chicago, Illinois
www.prettycoolicecream.com

116 Pastry Arts

Pastry Arts 117
118 Pastry Arts
dana salls cree &
michael ciapciaK, owners
Company Mission
To create delicious hand-crafted ice cream novelties, like
an indoor popsicle truck.

Signature Product
Orange Party Pop: A cream cheese ice cream bar dipped
in an orange magic shell and covered in a bright orange
sprinkle blend.

Secret of Success
Investing in the intangible aspects of my career. As a
kitchen employee I didn’t have much earning power,
so I decided long ago I needed to invest in the things
you couldn’t buy. I did this by traveling and staging
in a variety of kitchens, exposing myself to as many
flavors as possible, asking the accounting department
to educate me as often as possible, watching other
peoples’ successes and failures, and refining my own
ethics and attitudes towards everyone in the industry,
from dishwashers, delivery drivers and vendors, co-
workers, events salespeople, and, of course, the guests.
When it came time to open a shop, investors offered
fiscal support, but this web of people and experience
lifted us higher than anything money could buy.

Shop’s Best Feature

We build a large viewing window between the public
area and the kitchen so people could see that everything
was being made right there. The colorful jumpsuits we
wear in the kitchen, a fun way to stay connected to
dairy processing uniforms, are a big hit. And I really love
seeing a group of girls watching us, seeing that this is an
option for them too. They can love the ice cream, make
the ice cream, and own the business one day.

Pastry Arts 119

Resources

2019 Events
for Chefs &
Professionals

120 Pastry Arts

 pastry plus conference
The International Culinary Center (ICC) in
New York City will hold the second Pasty Plus
Conference on Sunday, March 24, 2019, with
its charitable arm, the Pastryland Bake Sale,
running earlier in the month on Saturday,
March 9, 2019.Both events will be held at ICC
(28 Crosby Street, New York, NY). The mission
of these two events is to establish a pastry
community that promotes a constructive
exchange of ideas and information to secure
the future of the industry.
Led by ICC’s Director of Pastry Operations,
Jansen Chan, in partnership with Callebaut
and an advisory committee of top pastry
chefs, the Pastryland Bake Sale will take
place at ICC on Saturday, March 9, 2019 from
12-4 pm. The daytime event will feature an
array of select pastry chefs from world-class
restaurants and bakeries, including Union
Square Café, Bien Cuit, Bâtard and Patisserie
Chanson, who will each donate one-of-a-kind
desserts for the charity bake sale, which will
benefit Hot Bread Kitchen.
The theme of Pastry Plus Conference 2019
is ‘Sharing the Slice’. The forum is resented in
partnership with Callebaut, and will feature
a collective presentation, activity and panel
discussion focusing on how the industry
must consider the way in which we connect
and share information. Pastry Plus aims
to connect the innovative minds of pastry
professionals, providing a rare opportunity to
meet and network in a positive, constructive
environment to discuss the issues facing them
individually and in the industry as a whole.
Pastry Plus’ Keynote Address will be given
by Francisco Migoya, Head Chef of Modernist
Cuisine. Individual, self-selected breakout
classes (choice of three 75-minute sessions)
will focus on preserving the craft of pastry
arts; innovation in techniques, ingredients
and products; and improving the workplace.
Continental breakfast and lunch will be
provided, and a networking reception will
conclude the inspiring day.
ICC has also joined with the James Beard
Foundation and Pastry Arts Magazine, as
leadership and media partners, respectively.
Over 140 pastry chefs, pastry sous chefs,
pastry cooks, pastry students, pastry
enthusiasts and pastry business owners,
plus food media, bloggers and social media
influencers, are expected to attend the
conference. Tickets for Pastry Plus ($120
plus fees; $90 plus fees for Early Bird from
January 28 to February 25), include access
to Pastryland. For more info or to
purchase tickets for both events, visit
www.internationalculinarycenter.com/pastry-
plus/.
Pastry Arts 121
 international artisan
bakery expo
The International Artisan Bakery Expo
(IABE) will debut March 5-7, 2019 at
the Las Vegas Convention Center in
Las Vegas. Exhibiting alongside the
largest pizzeria event in the world, The
International Pizza Expo, the goal of IABE
is to connect premium purveyors with
passionate artisan bakery innovators.
Seminars, competitions, networking
events, supplier demonstrations, the 2019
hundreds of suppliers and thousands
of bakers will convene for this first in san Francisco
a lifetime experience supporting the
artisan bakery movement. Here you’ll chocolate salon
find hundreds of industry suppliers,
Chocolate aficionados and professionals
distributors and dealers showing their
will have the opportunity to taste and
equipment, ingredients and services
experience the finest in artisan gourmet
specifically developed for those bakers
and premium chocolate at the San Francisco
supplying and selling fresh, unpackaged
Chocolate Salon, which will take place at
baked goods from retail and food service
the San Francisco County Fair Building
outlets.
from 10:00 am to 5:30 pm on March 30.
Two hundred artisan bakery exhibitors Exhibitors at the event include a curated
and 500 pizzeria exhibitors will be selection of premium and award-winning
on-hand ready to provide solutions chocolatiers, confectioners and other
and opportunities for both artisan culinary artisans. Salon highlights feature
industries. For more info, visit chocolate tastings, demonstrations, chef
www.artisanbakeryexpo.com. and author talks. For more info, visit
www.SFChocolateSalon.com.

122 Pastry Arts


national restaurant
association show
The 2019 National Restaurant
Association Show will take place May
18-21 at McCormack Place in Chicago.
This is the foodservice industry’s largest
and most comprehensive annual event,
bringing together a wide range of
sectors into one space. It will feature
exhibitors from around the world,
including international pavilions from
Italy, France, Thailand and Greece.
The National Restaurant Association
Show is the place to explore everything
that’s happening in the industry—from
equipment and supplies to food and
beverage to technology. It’s a place to
learn, experience, network, sample, and
test all the latest things on the market.
With learning opportunities that
reflect today’s business challenges and
forward-thinking trends, the National
Restaurant Association Show might
just help you—and your business—stay
ahead of the curve. For more info or to
register, visit www.show.restaurant.org.
starchefs
international chefs
congress
The 14th Annual StarChefs International
Chefs Congress will take place October
27 to 29, 2019 at the Brooklyn Expo
Center. As always, there’ll be three days
of main stage cooking demonstrations,
hands-on workshops, beverage tastings,
business seminars and competitions.
In addition to bringing together some
of the world’s most inspiring culinary
professionals, StarChefs Congress
gathers best-in-class producers and
equipment manufacturers so you can
outfit your kitchen and fill your walk-in
with exceptional product. This is a great
opportunity to ask questions, take away
techniques and return to work with a
revitalized vision for your business. For
more info, visit www.starchefs.com.
Pastry Arts 123
 international baking industry exposition 2019
IBIE, also known as the Baking Expo™, will take
place September 7 through September 11 at
the Las Vegas Convention Center in Las Vegas,
and registration is now open. Held once every
three years, IBIE is the largest trade event in the
Western Hemisphere for the baking industry.
This forum is a great opportunity to discover
the latest trends and innovations, participate in
cutting-edge conference sessions and demos,
and build relationships at high-level networking
events. This unique community gathering offers
business development opportunities on many
levels. Over the past decade, IBIE has enjoyed
a 65 percent increase in attendance and is on
track to be bigger and better than ever with
a nearly sold out show floor. When the show
opens September 8-11 in Las Vegas, Nevada,
the enlarged expo floor plan will host more
than 1,000 exhibitors showcasing the latest
in automation/technology, ingredients and
industry trends across the vertical supply chain
for every role and every segment of the grain-
based food industry.
New in 2019, IBIE will launch IBIEducate,
a full day of education on September 7, one
day prior to the exhibit hall opening. Now
124 Pastry Arts
attendees can dedicate a full day to targeted
education, designed to deliver valuable ideas
and strategies to improve bakery products,
optimize production and support business
growth. Along with the additional day of
learning, the IBIEducate line-up offers more
classroom sessions, more hands-on sessions,
more technical sessions as well as business
sessions focusing on management and
marketing topics. Sessions can be purchased
individually or attendees can get unlimited
access through the all-new ‘All Access Pass.’
IBIE will also unveil two artisan
marketplaces, presented by Bread Bakers
Guild of America and Puratos. These new
state-of-the-art show floor destinations
will introduce show elements specifically
produced to support the growth of the artisan
and specialty market segment. Curated
competitions, staged demonstrations from
celebrity chefs and Certified Master Bakers,
tastings, expert Q&A sessions, exhibitor
demonstrations and much more will bring the
marketplaces to life.
For more info on IBIE or to register, visit
www.ibie2019.com.
american culinary Federation national convention
The American Culinary Federation will hold
its national conference in beautiful Orlando,
Florida on August 4-8, 2019 at the Orlando
World Center Marriott. If you’re a chef exploring
new ideas and flavors, a student looking to
gain experience or a foodservice professional
keeping atop the latest and greatest, they’ve
got plenty of educational and networking
opportunities for you.
Featuring educational workshops and seminars
such as:
Lessons I’ve Learned and my New Favorite
Recipe
Chef Gale Gand, a nationally acclaimed pastry
chef, restaurateur, cookbook author, television
personality, teacher, entrepreneur, and mother,
who has also been recognized as Outstanding
Pastry Chef of the Year by The James Beard
Foundation, will reveal some of the most
important lessons she’s learned over her 40
years in the food business, plus her most recent
favorite recipe.
Celebrating Foods from Around the World
For many food professionals, one of the most
enriching activities is learning a new cuisine
or baking tradition. In recent years this has
become a sensitive area which is sometimes
politicized. What is cultural appropriation?
How can we avoid doing it and still engage in
cuisines which aren’t “ours?” Hear about these
general topics and then hear about a case study
of the introduction of Hungarian baking at
Zingerman’s Bakehouse. What went well and
what remained challenging?
Culinary Medicine – Cooking Up New
Relationships Between Chefs and Physicians
How do chefs play a role to increase the
health and well-being of their communities?
Culinary Medicine is the hot new area of
culinary training. A partnership between Chefs,
Dietitians and Physicians teaching medical
students the application of food as medicine.
Learn about why this is an important addition
to the training of medical providers and the
benefits for the public at large. Enjoy a tasting
of some of the recipes that are taught to
medical students.
For more information about the convention
visit: https://www.acfchefs.org/
Photo Credit: Courtesy of American Culinary Federation
Pastry Arts 125
 Thank you to all who supported
For the Love of Chocolate Foundation’s 14th Annual Gala!
Rebel, from Rockabilly to Rock & Roll!

Linda
Avery

Right Mind
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TIMM & GARFINKEL, LLC

________________________________

Attorneys at law

For the Love of Chocolate Foundation

Making a difference in the lives of pastry students all across the Midwest!
Support us in supporting them. Join our long list of sponsors in funding pastry education.
Franco Pacini - Board Chairman franco@ftloc.org 773-972-1927 www.ftloc.org