Professional Documents
Culture Documents
9 -| 26
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is 9 1 - 1--(t t 9 25
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12 -,< 22 4
13
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16 .18
17
2. Needles
* Style 2020 is used tor general sewing.
. Style 2045 is used for sewing knits,
stretch fabrics and elastic.
5
4. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and ------
stitching corded seams. / h \
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Chapter 2. Getting Ready to Sew
choosing and changing accessories
CHANGING THE NEEDLE B-
* Raise needle to its highest point by turning
the hand wheel toward you Loosen needle
clamp screw A and remove the needle. A
. Insert new needle up into clamp B as far as it
will go, with the flat side of the needle to the
back.
* Tighten needle clamp screw.
<AA
1 Insert the edge of a coin in the slot of the 2. When screw is fully loosened, foot will drop.
presser foot screw A. To loosen, turn screw Remove presser foot by sliding it toward you
away from you.
BJ
3, Centre the new presser foot shank B under 4. Tighten presser foot screw securely with a
the presser foot screw. Lift shank all the way coin.
up.
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A B
2
. . ... ........ - - - - - - - - - - -
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FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE
There are many types of fabric around the world, each manufactured with a specific fibre and
weight. The fabrics below have been classified according to weight to give a small sample of what
is available for purchase.
FIBRE
AND FILMY SHEER LIGHT
CONSTRUCTION
SILK Chiffon, Net, Lace, Ninon Velvet, Crepe de Chine, Shantung, Faille
(Woven) Organza,
Tulle
(Knit) Jersey
(Knit) Cire
(Knit) Jersey
VINYLS
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Refer to this table to determine the weight and type of fabric you will be using in order to select the
correct needle and thread combination.
For correct needle and thread combination for your fabric, refer to the Fabric, Thread and Needle
Table on the following pages.
Velveteen, Corduroy, Velvet, Fleece. Corduroy, Denim, Ticking, Canvas, Denim, Duck,
Velour, Terry, Chintz Linen, Drapery Fabric, Burlap Canvas, Sailcloth,
Upholstery Fabric
Stretch Velours A, Stretch TerryA
A Usually cona.n son, eIsc fire drso
Jacquard, Double Knit, Sweater Knit, Double Knit, Helenca, Fake Furs
Bonded Knit, Tricot, Spandex, Stretch
Terry, Stretch Velour, Deep Pile, Fake
Furs
Patent, imitation-Leathers & Suedes, Buckskin, Calfskin, Suede, Reptile Upholstery Leather
Leather, Suede, Reptile
2020-11
SILK Fine Silk Fine Silk Fine Silk Woven
Fine Mercerized 2020-9 Fine Mercerized 2020-9 Fine Mercerized 2045-11
Knit
2020-11
RAYON Fine Silk Fine Silk Fine Silk Woven
Fine Mercerized 2020-9 Fine Mercerized 2020-9 Fine Mercerized 2045-11
Knit
2020-11
COTTON Fine Cotton Fine Cotton Medium Cotton Woven
Fine Mercerized 2020-9 Fine Mercerized 2020-9 Med. Mercerized 2045-11
Knit
2020-11
WOOL Fine Silk Woven
Fine Mercerized 2045-1 1
Knit
2020-11
Woven
SYNTHETIC Fine Synthetic 2020-9 Fine Synthetic 2020-9 Fine Synthetic
2046-11
Knit
2020-11
SYNTHETIC Woven
BLENDS Fine Synthetic 2020-9 Fine Synthetic
Knit
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Find the fabric you are using in Type of Fabric column at left (silk, rayon, etc.). Then locate the
fabric weight column (filmy, sheer, etc.) for your fabric at top of table. Read across from Type of
Fabric column to correct weight of fabric column. There, the correct thread and needle choice for
your fabric will be found.
Example: If you are sewing a medium weight wool, find wool in Type of Fabric column. Read
across to Medium (weight) column and you will see that a medium silk or mercerized thread and a
size 2020-1 4 needle for woven fabric or size 2045-1 4 needle for knit fabric are to be used.
You should follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle package for cor-
rect style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabric.
Medium Silk
Medium Mercerized 2020-11
2020-14
Medium Cotton Woven Heavy Cotton Heavy Cotton
Medium Mercerized 2045-14 Heavy Mercerized 2020-16 Heavy Mercerized 2020-18
Knit
2020-14
Medium Silk Woven
Medium Mercerized 2045-14 Heavy Mercerized 2020-16 Heavy Mercerized 2020-16
Knit
2020-14 2020-16
Woven Woven
Medium Synthetic , Heavy Synthetic
2045-14 2045-16
Knit Knit
2020-14 2020-16
Woven Woven
Medium Synthetic . Heavy Synthetic . -
2045-14 2045-16
Knit Knit
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operating the machine
CONNECTING THE MACHINE
* Before plugging in your machine, be sure the . To run the machine and control speed, press
electrical Information on the side of the the speed controller E with your foot. The
machine A, below the hand wheel, agrees harder you press, the faster the machine will
with the range marked on your electrical sew.
meter. CAUTION: Disconnect the power line plug from
* To turn on the machine, connect plug B to the Socket outlet when changing needles, feet or
machine and plug C to your socket outlet. needle plates or when leaving the machine unat-
tended. This eliminates the possibility of starting
-To turn on the sewing light, press or turn the machine by accidentally pressing the speed
switch D as required. See illustration. controller.
-~~~ D
C
IMPORTANT - Machines for Great Britain and some other countries having similar wiring standards are ship-
ped from the factory without a plug for connection to the mains.
The wires in this mains lead are coloured in accordance with the following code:
Blue: Neutral (N)
Brown: Live (L)
As the colours of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings
identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows:
The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter N or
coloured black.
The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter L or
coloured red.
If a 13 amp (BS 1363) plug is used a 3 amp fuse must be fitted, or it any other type of plug is used a 5 amp fuse
must be fitted either in the plug or adaptor or at the distribution board.
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the bobbin thread
Your sewing machine uses two threads to form a stitch. The upper thread comes from the spool
and is threaded through the eye of the needle. The lower thread comes from the bobbin. Wind the
bobbin before threading the machine.
Preparation Steps t j!
1. Raise the presser foot and turn hand wheel
toward you until needle is in highest position. .\
2. Loosen hand wheel knob A by turning it
toward you with the right hand while holding
hand wheel with the left hand. __ _--__-------_---------
3. Place spool pin felts on pins. 3
Winding Steps
--
irl
* Place thread spool on left spool pin with . Hold thread end, as shown, and start the
thread retaining slit B on top. (Break paper at machine. Cut off thread end after a few coils
the end of spool if necessary). have been wound.
.When required amount of thread has been
*Lead thread around bobbin winder tension wound (winding will stop when bobbin is full),
disc C, as illustrated, and through small hole stop the machine and cut connecting thread.
in bobbin from inside out. * Push bobbin to left and remove bobbin from
spindle.
*Snap bobbin onto spindle and push bobbin to * Hold hand wheel and tighten hand wheel
right to engage bobbin winder, knob.
iB
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A~~~
REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE
1 Hold bobbin case and 2. Place bobbin into bobbin 3. Pull thread under ten-
bobbin so that thread case. Pull thread into sion spring D and into
leads off in direction slot C. slotE at end of spring, as
shown above. shown.
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REPLACING THE BOBBIN CASE
4~~~~~~
•Raise the presser toot to release tension *Thread the needle-thread tension 4. Slide
discs and make sure needle is in highest thread over metal plate into tension discs,
position. Lead thread under needle-thread tension and
* Place spool pin felts from accessori es over tension wire by firmly pulling thread up and
spool pins. Then place spool of thread on left over to the right.
spool pin over felt, keeping spool thread re. Pull thread to left behind point 5. guiding
taining slit A on top. thread up toward take-up lever.
* Keep right hand on spool of thread to hold * Thread take-up lever 6, as illustrated, Then
firmly in place while threading machine, pass thread back down through point 5.
* Place thread through thread guide 1, as * Continue to guide thread through points, 7
shown. and 8, as shown.
• int
Sna thred
thred guie 2.* Thread needle from front to back and draw
* Snapthread into thread guide 2. about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through eye
* Pass thread through pointS3, of needle.
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RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD
Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the needle, raise the bobbin thread
through the hole in the needle plate.
1. Hold needle thread lightly with left hand I2. Continue turning hand wheel and holding
and turn hand wheel slowly toward you so needle thread until needle rises and
that needle enters needle plate. I brings up bobbin thread in a loop,
, ~ ~~~~~~I
,r \
3. Undo the loop with your fingers. 4. Place both needle and bobbin threads
under the foot and draw them to back of
machine,
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Chapter 3. Straight Stitching
adjusting machine stitch to suit your fabric
SETTING SELECTORS
. Pattern Selector
r i Stitch Wldth: ¢
@~~~~~~~~ :JJ
* Stitch Length: 1.5-4 to suit fabric
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sewing a seam
I/ * Pattern Selector:
. Stitch Width: g I
2
V\
lr1
I>N;^t
.Raise presser foot. Pull thread back under
presser foot leaving at least 1 Ocm (4 inches)
of thread.
..k
- -- -- --- -- -- - -- --- - --.-- --
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applications
ZIPPER INSERTION
How the zipper is inserted will depend on the
type of garment and the location of the zipper.
With the adjustable zipper foot, you will find it
easy to sew an even line of stitching close to
the zipper.
The zipper foot can be used either to the left or .
right of the needle, depending on where the
bulk of the garment is placed.
Adjusting the Zipper Foot
. Set machine for straight stitching.
. Attach the zipper foot as instructed on page 4.
When the zipper is to the right of the needle:
. Loosen the thumb screw at the back of the
foot, and slide the foot to the left of the nee-
dle.
* Cheek the position of the foot by turning the
hand wheel to lower the needle into the side
notch of the foot, making sure it clears the
foot.
* Lock the foot into position by tightening the
thumb screw.
* Lower presser bar. Make sure the needle
clears the foot on all sides of the notch.
When the zipper is to the Jolt of the needle, ad-
just the foot to the right of the needle in the
same way.
. Pattern Selector:
* Stitch Width t i
. No Presser Foot
.Snap-in Feed Cover 9l|
.Embroidery Hoop Designed for Machine Use
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Chapter 4. Basic Zig-Zag Stitching
setting selectors
PATTERN SELECTOR
Before turning selector, make sure needle is out
of the fabric
For plain zig-zag stitching:
.Turn pattern selector to aligning symbol
under * mark.
* Pattern Selector:
. Stitch Width:
j 0 3 \~~~C . Slhtch Length: 1 ^4 to suit fabric
09 o 0 Ft Et 1] 1 1 1ll 8 ~ General Purpose Needle Plate
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ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD
TENSION Too Little Tension
Zig-zag stitching requires less needle-thread
tension than straight stitching.
Make a test sample with the fabric and thread
you plan to use so that you can adjust the ten- e ion
sion properly. The stitches should lie flat
against the fabric without causing the fabric to
pucker.
If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is
puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by
turning the dial to a lower number. / QN
Too Much Tension
4 3 2 1 0-1
Stitch Length Setting
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* Pattern Selector:
. Stitch Width: |
* *. Stitch Length: 0 to 1
* General Purpose Needle Plate
. General Purpose Foot
Incorrect
ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD
TENSION
Satin stitching requires less tension than
straight stitching or open zig-zag stitching.
Furthermore, the wider the stitch, the lighter the
tension on the thread must be. Notice the
stitching on your sample. If the fabric is
puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by
turning the tension dial to a lower number.
Corre2
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applications
APPLIQUE
Applique adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens. You can create your own
design, trace a simple outline from a colouring book, or use a motif cut from a printed fabric.
Fabric of similar or different textures combine equally well.
A closely spaced plain zig-zag stitch, commonly referred to as a satin stitch, is used for applique
work. Although you may vary stitch width to accommodate fabric weave and texture, never allow
the stitch to be too wide.
Make a test sample to help you decide which of the following methods is best for your fabric and
design.
. Pattern Selector:
. Stitch Width: To suit fabric
* Stitch Length: Between 0 and i
* General Purpose Needle Plate
. General Purpose Foot
Preparation I 01
. Baste applique design to fabric and outline
the design with a short, straight stitch.
. Remove basting and press.
Method 1
Method 1 - Trimming after Stitching - - - - - - - -
. Set machine as code recommends.
* Outline the entire design with satin stitching. p
. Cut away the fabric or the outer edges of the
stitching with embroidery scissors. / \
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Chapter 5. Machine Stitch Patterns
setting selectors
-~~~~~ii-
In addition to straight stitch and zig-zag stitch, your machine can produce a variety of stitch pat-
terns, There are two types of stitch patterns built into your machine:
* decorative stitch patterns, illustrated above, are produced by side-to-side movement of the
needle.
* stretch stitch patterns, illustrated above, are produced by both the side-to-side movement of
the needle and the back-and-forth movement of the feed.
Refer to chart on page 27 for further information on machine settings and applications for the
stitch patterns on your machine,
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SELECTING A PATTERN
Before moving pattem selector, make sure nee-
die is above fabric.
When you turn the pattern selector, one of
seven stitch patterns is available to you.
Turn stitch width selector to , then rotate the
pattern selector as required, until the desired
stitch pattern symbol is positioned under the
* symbol above the selector.
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adjusting stitches to suit stretch fabric
B
ADJUSTING PRESSURE WHEN SEWING
KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC
'I, ~
Some knit and stretch fabric, because of their
require either more or less than nor-
~~~~~~~~structure,
mal presser bar pressure to feed smoothly and
Vtc ~~~~~~~~evenly.
* For nylon tricot, cird and similar hard surface
synthetic knits, increase pressure by press-
ing down on pressure regulator C until
desired pressure is reached.
D
* To release pressure regulator, press down on
round base D.
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STITCH PATTERN CHART
The table below will help you to select the correct pattern for your fabric and sewing job.
Stitch Pattern PaPa tternn
Sel.catorn Sch Stitch Where to use
LenthtSic
elector
LengthWidth
Used for general purpose stretch sewing,
N/W ~ , 5-4 |_ _ _ _ | bar tacks, finishing seams, embroidery
Zig-Zag and applique.
Zig-Zag
For finishing hems and making ladder
1 - 25 __ _ seams.
Blindatitch
Lets you mend, join and reinforce without
Multi-Stitch
Multi-Stitch I
-~~
1 bulk. Ideal for bar tacking.
Zig-Zag
>
/\5 -/1
.5-1
.5 - 1
i. iMakes well formed scallops for edgings
~~~~~and
tucks,
Crescent
Ideal for plain seams that stretch and for
_3 _- 4 g g g } | EW repairing and reinforcing seams.
Straight Stretch A only
Sweater and swimsuit construction.
Sa
FPFFFFF/
Overedge aFFZ
~~~~: 3-4 Overcast seams in bulky knits and
stretch terry cloth.
Slant Overedge A
_____________
---- , 1- 4 g Used for general purpose sewing and
1-4 topstitching.
Straight Stitch
(Coloured ___- Used for making buttonholes.
Buttonholes I e Bar)
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applications
tV V ~~~V-- - - v -- -- v ------ X
BLINDSTITCH
The blindstitch has many practical and functional uses. Its most common use provides a
durable hem finish. However, the creative ways that one might apply this stitch are
unending.
Blindstitch Hems
2 * Pattern Selector:i
* Stitch Width: |
. Stitch Length: 1 to 2.5
* General Purpose Needle Plate
* General Purpose Foot
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MULTI-STITCH ZIG-ZAG
The multi-stitch zig-zag is an extremely versatile stitch. Use it to mend, join or reinforce '.
without bulk. With this stitch you may attach elastic and stretch lace, construct lingerie
and swimsuits and finish seams. There are many other useful applications for the multi-
stitch zig-zag.
Bar Tacks
. Pattern Selector:
. Stitch Width: |
. Stitch Length: 0
. General Purpose Needle Plate
. General Purpose Foot 1 2
Mending a Tear
* Trim ragged edges.
. Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for
reinforcement, Hand baste underlay in place.
* Stitch on the right side, using a stitch length
between 1 and 2, bringing the edges of the
tear together. Shorten stitch length at ends
and corners to give extra strength.
* Trim underlay.
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SLANT OVEREDGE STITCH
Although the slant overedge stitch may be used creatively, it is primarily applied in finish-
| ing seams, hems and facing edges. Use it to overedge seams that require stretch such as i-
. crotch seams. It is particularly helpful in ski suit, snowsuit and swimsuit construction.
Overedged Seams
. Pattern Selector:
Stitch Width: ¢
..S *l Stitch Length: 3-4
.A
7 J * General Purpose Needle Plate
/-tC
/ / * General Purpose Foot
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Chapter 6. Buttonholes
Your new machine comes complete with a built-in four-step buttonhole system, Before sewing on
your garment, always make a test buttonhole duplicating the number of thicknesses of fabric and
interfacing, if appropriate.
BUTTONHOLE POSITION
_B
I
-,~ 4- C 3mr (1/8 inch) - -
Accurate guidelines are essential to keep buttonholes at a uniform distance from the
edge of the garment, evenly spaced and on the grain of the fabric.
1. Mark the centre line of the garment using hand basting or tailor's chalk.
. Be sure that the space from the centre line A to the finished edge B ot the garment
is at least equal to three-quarters the diameter of the button C. With this spacing,
the button will not extend beyond the edge when the garment is buttoned.
* Make sure that the centre line marking follows a lengthwise fabric thread.
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2. Mark a position guideline for each but-
tonhole.
* Horizontal buttonholes A are placed to ex-
tend 3mm (1/8 inch) beyond the centre
line of the garment C, so that the buttons
will be in the centre of the figure when the
garment is fastened.
.Horizontal buttonhole guidelines should
follow a crosswise fabric thread and be
longer than the finished length of the but-
tonhole.
j :. Mark ends of each buttonhole vertically.
c . V S-C-
Vertical buttonholes B are placed so that
the centre line C of the garment is in the
centre of the buttonhole, as shown.
* Mark the ends of each buttonhole horizon-
tally across the centre line basting and use
the centre line marking as the buttonhole
guide when stitching.
BUTTONHOLE LENGTH
. The buttonhole length should be just long
enough to allow the button to slip through the
opening without stretching it.
.Buttonhole length is not automatically
A *1 |w1 1 1 gauged with the buttonhole foot. It is neces-
sary to estimate the length by measuring the
U 1 \ width
\ plus thickness of the button.
1K it*~6/1 . To make sure the measurement is correct,
cut a slit in a scrap of fabric equal to the
E
11 lll L tF diameter of the button you intend to use.
* Increase length of opening until button slips
through easily.
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FOUR-STEP BUTTONHOLING A
Preparation B
B \'
. Attach buttonhole foot to the machine. Refer
to page 4 for additional information on chang-
ing Presser Feet.
1 Raise presser foot lifter. Hold upper thread
lightly with left hand and turn hand wheel
slowly toward you until needle enters the
plate. BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DO NOT
RUN THE MACHINE DURING THIS PRO-
CEDURE. Continue turning hand wheel and
holding upper thread until needle rises.
Tighten your hold on upper thread and bring
up lower thread in a loop. Release upper C
thread. Slide scissors between foot A and D
plate B and draw both upper and lower
threads diagonally toward the back of the
foot. leaving approximately 10cm (4 inches)
of thread.
Set machine according to above code,
2. Place fabric with buttonhole marking lines
under toot. Align bar tack marking line C G
with notches on the solid white section of
foot D.
3. Then slide metal section of foot E until bar
tack marking line F is aligned with last red
line on left of foot G.
E F
-_-._------- ........ ._ -- - _ _-------
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FOUR-STEP BUTTONHOLING PROCEDURE
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Chapter 7. Twin-Needle Stitching
The twin-needle simultaneously produces two Procedure
parallel, closely spaced lines of pattern stitch-
ing. You can stitch with either one or two col- * Insert twin-needle.
ours of thread. * Thread as for single-needle stitching, except
Twin-needles No. 2011 must be purchased pass thread between centre and back tension
separately at your local Sewing Centre. discs A and through left eye of needle.
.Place second spool of thread on right spool
* Pattern Selector: Stitch desired pin and felt.
* Stitch Width: nt
rntitchwfdth:
f| oniYb011W~ *Thread machine in usual way, except pass
.lig
thread from second spool between centre and
. Stitch Length: .5 - 4 to suit fabric front tension discs B, as shown.
* General Purpose Needle Plate * Thread through remaining points, making
certain to omit the thread guide above the nlee-
* General Purpose Foot dle and pass thread through right eye of nee-
dle.
A CAUTION: Do not use a stitch width greater then what is recommended, A wider stitch Will result in rissolie breakage 3
Thread Breaks
Make sure
* Machine is properly threaded 14
* Needle-thread tension is not too tight 17 21 22
* Thread is unwinding freely from spool ... . 11 14
* Bobbin case area is Iree of lint and loose thread ends 37
Skipped Stitches
Make sure
* Needle is correct style for machine and size for thread 8- 9
* Machine is correctly threaded. 14
* Needle is securely fastened to needle bar 4
Fabric Puckers
Make sure,
* Needle-thread tension is not too tight ......... . 17, 21 22
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Chapter 9. Caring for Your Machine
CLEANING AND OILING YOUR
MACHINE
CAUTION: Before cleaning your machine, dis- B
connect power fine plug from your socket outlet.
Periodically, depending on usage, clean and oil
your machine as follows, using one drop of oil
on areas indicated:
. Top Interior Areas & <k'
To clean and oil top of machine, remove top <'
cover. Using a large screwdriver, remove a
screws A and B. Periodically, apply a drop of /
oil only to areas indicated, after cleaning.
To replace top cover, align it over screwholes
A and 9. Using a large screwdriver. replace Top Interior Area
screws A and B.
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. Bobbin and Feed Areas
To clean bobbin and feed areas, remove nee-
dle plate, as instructed on page 5. Using soft
cloth or brush. clean area as illustrated.
Replace needle plate, as instructed on page 5.
XExterior Areas
If necessary, a mild solution of soap and
water may be used on exterior areas to
remove stubborn stains. No other cleaning
liquid or powder should be used.
\S 0 To Unlock \ To Lock
. Swing open face plate to left. . Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pins en-
. Do not attempt to unscrew the bulb, tering slot of socket.
. Turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in
. Press it up into the socket and at the same position,
time turn bulb over in direction shown to p
unlock the bulb pin and guide out of socket. Swing face plate back to right and snap it
closed.
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your personal measurements
This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements. You will need the assistance of
someone to help you to take the measurements carefully with an accurate tape measure.
The illustrations show where tape measure should be placed when taking each measurement.
As a starting point, use a ribbon firmly but comfortably tied at the waist before taking measure-
ments.
cm (inches)
1. Bust -Fullest part -slightly higher in back
2. Waist - Around natural waistline . .
3. Hip--.....- cm (inches) below natural waistline (fullest part) .... _..
4 i r. j , )I.
10 ft, . '
i4 V' S 18 :1v '-
.vif1'!
..... ~~~ .~ ..
14
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Index