Palm Beach Atlantic University 1

Introductory Earth Science Laboratory

ESC 1041-0XL
Laboratory #6: Currents and Waves
PURPOSE:
 Learn about the parts of an ocean gyre.
 Answer questions about the currents that make up the different gyres.
 Learn to use a tide chart and how to plot tidal height.
 See the impacts of wind blowing continuously on a body of water over time.
 See the impacts of displacement on a body of water.

INTRODUCTION: Currents move water from one place to another. Surface currents are driven
by winds whereas deep-water currents are driven by density differences. In this lab, we will
focus on surface currents. Specifically we will talk about ocean gyres and tides.

Waves are generally caused by wind blowing across the ocean’s surface. Waves do not cause
water to move from place to place. Instead they allow energy to move from place to place.
This energy can cause things like erosion along a beach.

CURRENTS:

An ocean gyre is a large system of rotating surface currents. Five exist; they are the North
Atlantic Gyre, South Atlantic Gyre, North Pacific Gyre, South Pacific Gyre, and Indian Gyre.
In the Northern Hemisphere they flow clockwise and in the Southern Hemisphere they flow
counterclockwise. Gyres are the main surface currents of the ocean, and they are responsible
for one-third of the heat transfer from the Equator to the Poles. In the figure below, draw
arrows indicating the direction that each current is flowing. Then, in each blank, write either
“warm” if the current is warm or “cool” if the current is cool.
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Western boundary currents are found on the west side of an ocean. Western boundary
currents are warm and fast. Indicate which currents above are western boundary currents.
Eastern boundary currents are found on the east side of an ocean. Eastern boundary currents
are cool and slow. Indicate which currents above are eastern boundary currents.

On your lab table is a map showing the boundary currents. Pretend that the above figure
represents the Atlantic Ocean. Write the names of the two gyres in the center of their
respective gyre and label each current.

Now, answer a few questions regarding the map showing all of the boundary currents.
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1. Is the Kuroshio Current a western or eastern boundary current?

2. Is the West Australian Current a warm or cool current?

3. The Peru Current is part of what gyre?

4. How many South Equatorial Currents are there?

5. The West Wind Drift is the only current that travels all of the way around the globe
unobstructed. What oceans does it pass through?

Tides are a type of current that occurs in coastal areas. It is caused by the gravitational
attraction of the Sun and the Moon on the Earth. Three main types of tides exist: diurnal,
semidiurnal, and mixed tides. Diurnal tides have one high tide and one low tide every 24
hours. Semidiurnal tides have two high tides and two low tides of similar height every 24
hours. Mixed tides have two high tides and two low tides of unequal height every 24 hours.

A handout is on your lab table with three tidal charts. One is for West Palm Beach; one is for
Turkey Point; and the last one is for Dauphin Island. Label each one as having either diurnal,
semidiurnal, or mixed tides.

Tidal range changes depending on the amount of attraction from the Sun and the Moon. The
period when the tidal range is at its maximum is called a spring tide. Spring tides occur
during the New Moon and Full Moon. The period when the tidal range is at its minimum is
called a neap tide. Neap tides occur during the First Quarter and the Third Quarter moons.
Answer the question below:

1. What is the largest tidal range present on the tide chart?

2. What do we call the tide with the largest tidal range?

3. Does the largest tidal range correspond to any particular timing of the moon? If so,
which one(s)?

4. What is the smallest tidal range present on the tide chart?

5. What do we call the tide with the smallest tidal range?

6. Does the smallest tidal range correspond to any particular timing of the moon? If so,
which one(s)?
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7. Does it appear that the moon has any influence on the tides in this area? Explain.

Now, get two handouts from the front desk. One will have the anticipated tidal heights for
West Palm Beach for the end of the month. The other handout will be graph paper. Label the
X-axis “Date.” Label the Y-axis “Water level.” Now, plot out the tides so that the finished
product looks similar to the tidal charts that you used earlier.

WAVES

Obtain from the front desk:

A calculator
A stopwatch
A tank
A ruler

Measure the distance (in centimeters) the length of the tank. Multiply that number by two and
record it under (L) in the chart below. Add 1 centimeter of water to the tank. Raise one of the
short ends of the tank approximately 5 centimeters and lower it quickly. A shallow water wave
will cross the tank and be reflected. Using the stop watch, measure the time (in seconds) it
takes for the wave to travel two lengths of the tank (i.e., return to where it originated). Record
the time below under “A”. Repeat two more times, and record each time below under “B” and
“C.” Then, calculate the average time that it took to travel two lengths of the tank. Now,
divide L by the average time and record it under “L/T.” Lastly, calculate the theoretical
velocity (𝑉𝑠ℎ𝑎𝑙𝑙𝑜𝑤 = √𝑔ℎ, where g=gravitational attraction (980 cm/sec2) and h=the depth of
the water).

Repeat the steps above for 2 cm deep water, 3 cm deep water, and 4 cm deep water.

Time (seconds) Calculated Theoretical

Water Velocity Velocity
Depth A B C Average L (L/T) (𝑉𝑠ℎ𝑎𝑙𝑙𝑜𝑤 = √𝑔ℎ)

1 cm

2 cm

3 cm

4 cm
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Graph your results on graph paper at the front desk. Make the x-axis the water depth and the
y-axis the velocity. Plot out both the calculated velocity and the theoretical velocity.

Compare your results. If they are different, explain the difference.

Are there any depths where the differences were most noticeable? Why do you think that
might be?

This portion is done as a teacher demonstration. A cup of sand will be added to one side of a
container, and then water will added. The sand will represent a beach. In the space below,
draw what it looks like in profile (see example on board).

The teacher will then turn the fan on high for the remainder of class. When you finish your lab
for the day, draw what the beach looks like in profile noting any changes that you see.

How did it change?

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That is all for the day. Make sure that you have Dr. Sedlacek check your work before leaving
and then sign out once you are cleared. Clean your area before you leave!

Next week we will go on a field trip, so be sure to bring sunscreen!

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What you need to know for the quiz next week:

 Be able to distinguish the different types of tidal patterns.

 Be able to identify or predict a spring or neap tide and the conditions necessary for their
occurrence.
 Be able to plot a simple tide chart.
 Be able to explain concepts learned in the waves section.