6 CLOTHING AND CULTURES

CLOTHING SOCIETY AND CULTURE

DEVELOPING SOCIETIES

The clothes that people wear in any society tell us something about the times in which
they live. In a developing society, clothes tend to be strictly functional and very simple.
The daily task of providing food, shelter, and clothing does not leave much time to
decorate and embellish clothes for everyday wear.

As a society becomes more developed, a greater variety of styles and fabrics are
available. The way that clothes look can become even more important than the
protection that they provide. In some societies, clothing is considered a form of art.

Initially, the type of clothes that a society wears is determined by the climate and the
natural materials that are available. The pre-historic people who lived in northern
Europe, where the climate was dry and cold and the warm weather lasted only two or
three months a year, developed a style of clothing made mostly from animal skins. The
ancient Egyptians lived in a much warmer climate where plants, such as the flax plant,
grew abundantly along the Nile River. Flax was woven into linen and styled into simple
garments suitable to the hot climate of Egypt.

Clothing ideas are frequently shared among cultures. As early societies came in contact
with one another, they began to exchange ideas and information that influenced their
clothing. Sailors and merchants who established trade with other countries brought back
fabrics, yarns, and trimmings. Soldiers who went away to war abroad saw how others
lived and dressed. Missionaries who went to other lands taught the native people about
the European style of clothing.

CLOTHES IN OTHER CULTURES

Every culture throughout history has had something special and unique about its
clothing. The ancient Greeks wore gracefully drape garments that reflected the same
qualities of beauty, harmony, and simplicity that were valued in art and architecture.
French fashion in the 18th century, with its richly embellished fabrics, yards of ribbons
and laces, and elaborate wigs, reflected the complicated manners and life at the court of
Versailles.

In the early American colonies, many goods, such as clothing and furniture, were not
easily available. If the colonists needed new clothes, they had to spin and weave their
own fabrics, as well as sew the garments themselves. As a result their clothes were
plain and practical.
Many cultures developed a unique style of dress or national costume. Most of these
items of clothing had very practical beginnings.

Ancient Celts in the Highlands of Scotland began to weave blankets with special plaid
patterns to identify each clan. In the 16th century, they started wrapping these clan
blankets around the body to for a short, belted-on, all-purpose garment called kilt. The
extra fabric was pulled up over the shoulder from the back and pinned in place.

In Middle Eastern countries, where the desert is very short hot during the day and very
cold at night, the turban became a common item of clothing. It absorbed sweat during
the day and insulated the head at night.

In some parts of the world, such as Africa, China, and India, people still wear distinctive
native costumes as part of their everyday dress. The native costumes are usually worn
only for festive occasions, such as holidays, parades, weddings, and dances.

Influences from the Past

Many of the clothes that you and your classmates wear every day are based on styles
that were developed in Western Europe. Until the 14 th century, European clothes were
loose-fitting and draped. People from different cultures wore similar clothes. Around
1350, people started wearing more fitted styles of clothes. From then on, regional
differences reflected the culture within the various countries.

For example, in countries such as Italy, Spain, and France, the Renaissance movement
encouraged elegant styles, extravagant fabrics, and a great amount of decoration on
clothing. The Reformation movement in Germany, Switzerland, Holland, and England
encouraged dark colors, simple styles, and little decoration.

Throughout history countries with wealth and power have influenced the fashions of
other countries. When Spain and Portugal were exploring the New World, their fashions
influenced styles throughout Europe. In the 17 th century, France under the rule of Louis
XIV became the most powerful country in Europe. French court dress became the
fashionable dress. Since that time, France has been considered a leader in fashion.

In Africa and Asia, societies were not strongly influenced by Western Europe. As a
result, clothing styles in these countries reflect their own unique cultures.

CLOTHES TODAY

The clothes that we wear reflect a blend of many different cultures and our own highly
industrialized society. Take a look around you to see what your classmates and
teachers are wearing. Most of their clothes were probably mass-produced in a factory.
This means that many garments were made at the same time. Those factories were
located in many different cities or countries. Today you cannot always tell where a
garment was made by looking at its style.

Almost all of today’s clothes are made by machine. Few clothes have intricate detailing
and handwork. Hems are usually machine-made. Even buttons can be sewn on by
machine. As a result, garments can be made faster and cheaper than ever before.

In some societies, clothes are indication of a person’s social or economic class. In

China, the farmers and villagers still wear dark cotton trousers and plain jackets, while
many city residents wear clothes that have a Western influence.

In democratic societies such as ours, everyone tends to dress in similar styles. In fact,
people all over the world tend to dress in somewhat similar styles today. The Western
business suit is becoming the accepted standard of dress in major cities. The Russian
businessman and the American businessman wear the same type of suit.

As our society has become more relaxed and informal, our clothes have, too. At one
time, a proper gentleman or lady never went anywhere without a hat and gloves. Years
ago, in order to be dressed properly for all social occasions, a true gentleman was
supposed to have 16 different outfits. He would not think of wearing the jacket from one
outfit with the trousers from another. Today, we often wear one jacket or sweater with
many different outfits for many different outfits. Sportswear once meant special clothes
worn only for sports activities. Today it means the easy-care, simple-styled separates
that are worn every day.

CLOTHES AS SYMBOLS

HERITAGE

Some styles of clothing are identified with a particular area or country. A sombrero
reminds us of Mexico, a kimono reminds us of Japan, a fur parka reminds of Alaska.
These national costumes are part of a person’s heritage. Heritage is the body of culture
and tradition that has been handed down from one’s ancestors. The term ethnic is used
to identify a particular race or nationality.

Although many different cultures developed garments that were similar in shape, each
one personalized its clothes by adding unique forms of ornamentation. Traditional
Hungarian clothes are decorated with leather. Colorful embroidery designs accent
Scandinavian clothing. Hawaiian dress features various colored feathers, arranged in
special patterns, and sewn to the cloth.

Some fabric designs are identified with a particular culture. Distinctive plaid fabrics
remind us of Scotland. Batik fabric, with its unique designs, is associated with
Indonesia. Guatemalans wear ponchos made from a certain type of woven striped
fabric.

Styles of dress can vary within a country. In the United States, you can sometimes tell
what region people are from by the way they dress. A Texan often wears cowboy boots
with his business suit. People from warm climates, such as Florida and Hawaii, usually
wear brighter colors than do people from Minnesota. People from large cities tend to
wear more formal clothes than people from small towns.

In many societies, it is traditional for males and females to dress quite differently. Until
recently, men always wore trousers and women always wore skirts in our Western
society. Pants are now accepted clothing for everyone. Many styles look the same for
both sexes.

In the 1970s, the unisex look was very popular. Men and women wore the same styles
in the same fabrics and colors. It was fashionable for women to wear pantsuits, styled
like men’s suits, and neckties.

In many other cultures, skirts and robes are worn by men. Arab men wear long, flowing
robes to protect them from the heat of the desert. In Malaysia, both men and women
wear the sarong, a wrapped and draped skirt

OCCUPATION AND STATUS

The clothes that people wear can tell something about their occupation and status, or
rank in a society.

In the Past

Over the centuries, types and quality clothes have been way of distinguishing the
nobility from the common person.

The colors used for the clothing were another way to tell the status of the wearer. At one
time, the only way to get purple dye was to extract it from the glands of a mollusk that
was found on the coast of Asia Minor. Because this dye was rare and difficult to obtain,
it was very expensive. Wearing purple garments became the sign of a very wealthy
person. Soon, only royalty was allowed to wear purple.

During the 13th century in Europe, when a wealthy middle class developed, it became
difficult to identify people who were rich, but common, from those who were rich and
noble. Special laws called sumptuary laws were made to regulate what each class
could wear.
Some of these laws limited peasant clothes to certain colors and certain fabrics. At one
time, peasants who looked like they were trying to imitate the clothing tastes of the
upper class could be fined, imprisoned, or executed.

In late 13th century France, there was a law that specified the number of dresses and
the value of the materials worn by every class of society. Knights and their ladies were
limited to three robes per year.

In the Present

Today, we live in a much more democratic society where people are usually free to
dress as they wish. However, we still have certain standards of dress that are
influenced by our occupation and status. The business suit is out of place on a
construction site. Blue jeans are out place in many offices.

Uniforms are also symbols of occupation and status.

VALUES AND BELIEFS

Clothes can reflect the values and beliefs of a culture or a special group. They can be
used to identify a person as a member of a religious group or to express a society’s
attitude toward a value.

Clothes and Charms

Much primitive dress reflects people’s early belief in magic. When a hunter wrapped
himself in the skin of a lion, he believed that he was transferring the skill and the
strength of that lion to his own body.

A necklace of shark’s teeth was believed to have an effect on the wearer that was
similar to reciting a special prayer or casting a spell. It provided the wearer with all the
qualities a fisherman needed to be successful. Masks and elaborate headdresses were
used to ward off evil spirits.

Folktales are full of stories about things that give the wearer special powers, such as
magic rings or cloaks that make the wearer invisible. Although we may laugh at these
stories and think of them as ancient fairy tales, we sometimes act quite differently.

Some people carry special symbols, such as a rabbit’s foot, to bring them good luck at
an event where success is especially important.

Clothes and Religion

Clothing and jewelry can indicate membership in a particular religious ship. People wear
crosses, stars, or other religious symbols as pins or necklaces.
Special clothes are also associated with certain religious ceremonies. These include
christening gowns for baptisms, veils for weddings, and first communion ceremonies,
and prayer shawls and robes.

Clothes and Modesty

Standards for modesty, or what a society feels is the proper way for clothing to cover
the body, can be very different. Nearly two centuries ago, women in Napoleon’s time
who wore very low-cut dresses in the front would never expose their shoulders.

Women in Victorian times might expose their shoulders, but would never expose their
ankles. Even Victorian pianos had their “legs” covered with heavy, fringed shawls.

SOCIAL CUSTOMS

Social customs deal with traditions and etiquette. Traditions are those customs used to
emphasize various ceremonies or ways of doing things throughout a long period.
Etiquette deals with acts that show consideration for events and people.

Traditions

Every society develops its own set of rules for clothes that are appropriate for certain
occasions. In our culture, the bride traditionally wears white. In China, she wears red. In
our culture a person in mourning wears black. In other cultures, a person in mourning
wears white.

In Western society, men are expected to wear a tuxedo for formal occasions. In the
Philippines, men wear a long-sleeved off-white embroidered shirt, called a barong
tagalog, for formal events.

Although we may think of sportswear as casual clothing, sometimes it is very traditional.

For example, white is the traditional color of tennis outfits. While other colors may be
worn, most players in major tennis tournaments wear white.

Etiquette

In our democratic society, people are free to dress as they wish. However, custom has
dictated that certain styles of dress are more appropriate to some occasions than to
others. If you follow these guidelines, you will be more comfortable even if the occasion
is new to you.

Wearing a gown and a tuxedo to a prom makes it a special event. Wearing dark colors
to a funeral shows respect for the family’s loss. Wearing your good clothes to
someone’s house for dinner shows that you are pleased by the invitation.
EFFECTS OF TECHNOLOGY AND ECONOMIES

TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT

Technology refers to the way a culture uses its scientific knowledge to produce things.
Early people lived in a very simple economy. Their clothing was limited to the skins of
animals they could hunt for on their own.

Then man discovered that he did not need to hunt for food and clothing. He settled
down in one place and raised certain plants and animals that provided him with raw
materials to make fabrics. For many centuries, the only fabrics available were those
made from natural fibers, such as cotton, flax, wool, and silk.

Today, new types of fibers have been developed that look and feel like natural fibers.

The Industrial Revolution of the 1700s and 1800s changed the way that goods were
made. With the invention of power-drawn equipment and the development of factories,
manufacturing was no longer done at home or in workshops. There was a great
increase in the amount of fabrics and the number of finished garments that could be
produced.

Computers are the newest development in technology. They can be programmed to tell
a machine how to weave a fabric. They can analyze a color sample and tell you how to
dye a particular fabric so that it matches your sample. Computers can even keep track
of a store’s inventory and forecast future sales.

ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT

Economics refers to the way that a society produce, distributes, and spends its wealth.
When people learned that they could barter, or trade their goods and skills for someone
else’s goods and talents, they were no longer limited to what was available in their own
back yards. Soon, trade developed between societies. As a result, ideas and technology
were exchanged, along with goods.

For instance, during the 11th to the 13th century, the Crusades opened up trade routes
between Western Europe and the Middle East and the Orient. Those who could pay the
price could have garments made from the finest silks, damasks, and thin cottons. At
first, only the fabrics were imported. Later, the technology was imported so that the
fabrics could be made in Europe.

Trade also helps to balance out any excess of some supplies and scarcity of others
between societies. For example, people might trade leather for cotton, or tools, or even
food. Today, clothes made in many countries are sold all over the world. Your jeans
may have been made in the United States, your shirt may have been made in Hong
Kong, and your shoes may have been made in Spain.

Mass communication has made it possible for people to share ideas quickly. It no longer
takes months for the newest styles to travel across the oceans.

How clothes are sold will tell you something about the development of a society.
Primitive societies tend to sell most of their goods in open market places. More
developed societies have many different ways to sell clothes, such as small shops,
department stores, and mail order catalogues.

SELF CHECK

Answer the following question given below:

1. How do a society and culture differ from, yet interrelate to each other?
2. How do weather and climate influence the type of clothing that a society
develops?
3. Why do many people throughout the world dress in a similar style of clothing
today?
4. Why is clothing a symbol of a society?
5. How technology and economics influenced the development of fabrics and
fashion?