Chapter 9 (The 17th Century)

1. Balagny

Circular cape with a wide collar worn over one shoulder. Originally worn by men. Also
worn originally during the first part of the 17th century. The cloak was named after a
military hero. It was convertible basically, it could turn from a cape into a cloak based on
how you wore it. Can easily find it being worn in most 17 century mens pictures. It gave
them a type of flare to their look, sophisticated and eye catching.
Source 
1:https://quizlet.com/121415895/chapter-9-dress-flash-cards/
2: http://www.kipar.org/archive/baroque-costumes/costumes_glossary.html
3: https://o.quizlet.com/3KHxeqcHFja2c3Gl54xLcA.png

2. Basque- Karlie Brown

The basque according to the book is the extension of the bodice down below the
waistline. That extended over the wide skirt. It went down to the hips and below. It was
used as a corset to accentuate a more fashionable figure. It was worn with the neckline
that was horizontal and placed right on the shoulders. It was worn over top of the
undergarments. The basque idea has been seen throughout every decade in fashion
history. Most recently the resurgence of corsets have come about, most of which
resemble the basque in length. 
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/tag/basque-bodice/ 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basque_(clothing) 
The textbook pg. 242

3. Breeches-Emily Prueitt

Breeches were knee length pants or trousers that were worn by men and boys.
Breeches were worn by men through the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries. To some, the
breeching of a 5 or 8 year old boy was considered the end of his childhood. Modern
breeches were inspired by history and are now specially designed for riding horses.
Breeches also replaced trunk hose in the 1620’s and continued to be popular for a long
time.
Source 1.https://kids.kiddle.co/Breeches 
Source 2.https://www.dictionary.com/browse/breeches 
Source 3. https://www.farmhousetack.com/blogs/barn-blog/what-are-breeches-how-to-
choose-the-right-pair 
Source 4.Survey of historic costume 

5. Cravat: Esther Wambold

The cravat is a long strip of cloth wrapped loosely around the neck. It was introduced in
the mid-seventeenth century and replaced the stiff ruffs from the sixteenth and early
seventeenth centuries. The cravat is said to originate from a Croatian army regiment
that was fighting during the Thirty Years’ War when they came into contact with the
French, who adopted the cravat. Early cravats were made from lace but were soon
replaced with linen or muslin for comfort. The cravat continued to be worn until they
were adapted to the modern necktie in the nineteenth century.
Butchart, A. (2020, January 27). The History of Neckwear. Turnbull & Asser; Turnbull &

Asser. https://turnbullandasser.com/blogs/off-the-cuff/off-the-cuff-history-of-

neckwear

Cravats - Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and

Footwear through the Ages. (2023). Fashionencyclopedia.com.

http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-

17th-Century/Cravats.html

Neckcloths, Cravats, Stocks, Solitaires, Jabots & Macaronis. (2011, June 17).

JaneAusten.co.uk; JaneAusten.co.uk. https://janeausten.co.uk/blogs/mens-

fashion/neckcloths-cravats-stocks-solitaires-jabots?currency=usd

9. Draw Loom- Ruby Alder

The drawloom produced elaborate silk fabrics and was thought to originate from China,
however, it became prevalent in Europe during the Late Middle ages. In order to use the loom a
small boy would sit on top of it, manually raising and lowering the yarns to make a pattern. Later
the drawloom was changed so that the boy could sit beside the loom instead of on top. The use
of the drawloom caused silk to be very popular in the 16th century.

Survey of Historical Costume

https://www.britannica.com/technology/drawloom
https://www.cnch.org/cnchnet/winter-2011/damask-and-drawlooms/
 11. Falling Band- Celesta Graham 

In the 17th century, the falling band (falling collar) took the place of ruffs and
standing collars. Although also worn by women, this style was mostly worn by men. This
flat laying collar, made primarily of linen or occasionally silk, rested across the
shoulders, and sat effortlessly across the upper body. Quite different from the previous
collar styles in earlier years, these did not require wire or starching to achieve their
desired design. As lace can be seen as a popular style at this time, most or all falling
bands had bobbin or needle point lace lining the edge.

Sources:
 Survey of Historic Costume, fifth edition
 https://www.agecrofthall.org/single-post/statement-pieces-ruffs-and-collars
 https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/falling-band/

      11.Fontange - Annie Diviney

A fontange was a headpiece adorned with ruffles of lace and ribbons. Structure was
supplied by wires, and in some cases, a sort of cage that the lace and ribbons were
secured to. In some case, starched linen was used to create frills. Sometimes a caged
form was placed on the head first, the hair was arranged on top and around the form.
Fake hair was also used. And then a fontange (ruffles, lace, more wire) was placed on
top of the pile of curls. The fontange became higher and higher and made balance
difficult! The style would often slip to one side. 
Sources: Survey of Historic Costume p. 256
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-17th-
Century/Fontange.html 
https://www.britannica.com/topic/fontange 
12. Guardinfante-Kyla Pratt

The Guardinfante was worn by Spanish women that were wealthy and it was adapted
from the French farthingale. It was a style of dress worn with a bodice that extended to
the skirt and usually horizontal. The sleeves were big and slashed and usually fitted at
the wrist. The skirts were padded at the waist and stuck out. They wore chopins with
wooden or cork soles to elongate the figure for the largeness of the width of the skirt.
Sources: 
https://recycleddress.wordpress.com/2014/03/11/guardinfante-aka-the-booty-pop/ 
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/chopines/ 
https://thecolorainbow.wordpress.com/2009/10/31/17-century/ 
14. Jack Boots: Sarah Smith
 High rigid boots, that were over the knee, made of heavy leather were worn for
horseback riding in the latter 1600s. Straps were fitted on the boots to fit spurs
onto it. Later soft boots with baggy creases and full tops became the fashion at
European courts. These boots were originally made with waxed jack leather
coated with pitch or tar for waterproofing. Originally jackboots were designed to
fit over regular shoes so that they could venture outdoors, get dirty, and simply
remove the outer boots upon coming inside. Any valuables could be stored in
small pockets in the boot lining.

Source: Survey of Historic Costume Pg. 250

http://historyofboots.blogspot.com/2009/06/seventeenth-century-boots.html
https://www.beautyanswered.com/what-are-jackboots.htm

15. Love Lock - Michaela Facuri

The love lock was a men of fashion hair style where English and French men grew one
lock of hair over their left shoulder longer than the rest. It was grown on the left side, the
hearts side, to show their devotion to a loved one and a romantic token of a lady’s
affection. The love lock was usually styled into a long ringlet or braid, and tied with a
ribbon at the end. Even though the love lock was considered fashionable and indicative
of being well-groomed since it was as much an element of class distinction as fine
clothing was, it was actually detested by many people and considered extravagant and
unnecessary. 
Sources: 
Survey of Historic Costume by Phyllis G. Tortora & Keith Eubank (p. 246)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lovelock_(hair) 
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/love-lock/ 
https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/
lovelocks 
18. Pantofles - Hope Vander Meiden

Pantofles were heel-less slippers or mules that, though worn throughout the entire
century, became especially fashionable toward the end of the period. The word pantofle
derives from the Greek word pantophellos, which means “cork”. Apparently, the earliest
versions of these backless slippers were made with cork soles. By the 17th century,
they were made with leather soles and worn indoors as well. The shoes were either
knitted by machine or hand. Some stockings had knitted or embroidered decorations. A
majority of these shoes were worn by the wealthy, because they were usually for show,
rather than function. 
http://costumehistorian.blogspot.com/2013/11/pantofles-and-origins-of-slippers-and.html

https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/
pattens-and-pantofles
 24. Petticoat Breeches-Mads Wilkins

Petticoat breeches are breeches that were a divided skirt that was cut so wide
that they looked like a skirt. They were thought to have originated in Germany
because they were also called rhinegraves. They were fastened above the knee
and decorated with ribbons and it was Charles II who made the popular in 1660.
These were usually made of either silk or muslin and were decorated with hand
sewn embellishments.
Pictures:
(95) Pinterest
(95) Pinterest
Sources:
Rhinegraves | clothing | Britannica
Rhinegraves | General History | Stronghold Nation (stronghold-nation.com)
Survey of Historic Costume p.247-248
25. Pinafore: Sam Carter

Summary: Similar to an apron, the pinafore was to be worn over the clothes to protect
the garments underneath it from getting ruined. While mainly made and worn by
children, it was also worn by women of all ages. It gained its name from mashing the
words pin and afore, also meaning front, and the practice of pinning it to the front of the
wearer’s dress. At first it was used as a practical garment but later became a
fashionable piece of the outfit with lace and frills decorating it. Pinafores were made of a
variety of materials like silk or cotton.
Sources: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/pinafore/ 
https://fidmmuseum.org/2011/07/pinafore-dress-early-1940s.html 
https://pyneandsmith.com/blogs/news/love-letter-to-pinafores#:~:text=The%20pinafore
%20was%20traditionally%20created,could%20be%20washed%20more%20frequently. 
26. Plumper - Allie Stoddard

One of the beauty standards that is different from today is that having a little
more fat on the face was considered very beautiful. A round face, with dimples and a
small double chin, was the ideal. Therefore, many people that were unsatisfied with
their appearance would look for ways to create the illusion of a more full face. One of
these techniques was using small balls of wax or cork to put in your cheeks, like a
chipmunk. One source claimed that this caused a distinctive way of talking, and even
the style of speaking became fashionable to mimic, as the plumper was so popular.
http://madameisistoilette.blogspot.com/2013/10/a-beautiful-visage-17th-century-
female.html
Textbook
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-18th-
Century/Eighteenth-Century-Body-Decorations.html

31. Slap Soles - Lillian Hagey

The Slape Sole Shoes were invented in the early 1600’s as a way to prevent the shoe
from sinking into the ground. The shoe is a heeled shoe with a sole on the bottom of the
foot, it was attached to the sole of the foot and not the heel so it would make a clacking
sound, hence the name Slap Sole Shoes. The sole also made it easier to walk in. These
were shoes worn by both men and woman. And were a sign of wealth and
sophistication.
https://allthatsinteresting.com/historys-fascinating-footwear/2

https://astepintothebatashoemuseum.blogspot.com/2020/11/the-height-of-fashion-conservation-
of.html

https://twonerdyhistorygirls.blogspot.com/2010/08/noisy-height-of-fashion-slap-sole-shoes.html

32. Tricorne: Brianne Heer

 A tricorne is a hat that is turned up and has three points. There is also bicorne
that has two points. The name Tricorne did not appear until the 19th century.
Before then they were called cocked hats. This hat was worn by all classes and
was used in military uniforms. Tricornes were mostly used by men, but a woman
could wear them. They were decorated with trim of braid, lace, or feathers.
tricorne hat | Fashion History Timeline (fitnyc.edu)
Tricorne - Wikipedia
Text book page 250,276
35. Virago Sleeve: Jillian Hohnholz

Summary: Virago Sleeves were stylish sleeves. They were “paned and tied into a series
of puffs” (Costume p.253). The Virago sleeves were often paned with strips of fabric
from the shoulder to the elbow or wrist, just like a lot of other slashed clothing around
this time period. The slashes in the sleeves allowed the fabric underneath to show
through. This meant the sleeves could be fashioned in many different styles according
to how the slashes were cut as well as the fabrics that could show through from
underneath the sleeves. The ends of the paned outer fabric on the sleeves were tied at
the elbows with materials such as ribbon.
Sources: Survey of Historic Costume p. 253,
http://costumehistorian.blogspot.com/2014/04/a-1620s-fashion-virago-sleeves-and-
over.html , https://steel-mastery.com/french-dress-with-virago-sleeves-early-xviith-
century.html