Chapter 8 (The Renaissance)

1. Aiguillettes- Emily Call Prueitt

Aiguillettes are small jeweled metal points used to fasten panes of decorative fabric to
sleeves. These were usually a metal tip at the end of laces sometimes decorated with
jewels. The word aglet derived from Aiguillettes and means the metal tip at the end of
shoelaces. Sometimes the laces were braided and had metal tips. The metal tips were
usually made of gold or silver. The modern use of Aiguillettes is in shoe laces where the
laces are braided and have a metal tip.

Source 1: Survey of Historic Costume

Source 2: https://military-history.fandom.com/wiki/Aiguillette_(ornament)#:~:text=An
%20aiguillette%2C%20aguillette%20or%20aiglet,16th%20and%20early%2017th
%20centuries. 
Source 3: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aiguillette 

2. Bases- Sabrina Walmer

Skirt type garment made for important military members, mainly the upper class.Mostly
used for show as they were also remarkably embroidered. Acted as a replacement for
hose and breeches in means wear, however sometimes still wore form fitting leg
stockings under as the bases sat on top of the armor. The coloring of the garments
usually was made to alter each panel. They were made with a heavier and stiffer cloth
leading me to believe they had these features for protection.

Source 1: http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-
Culture-16th-Century/Bases.html
Source 2:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bases_(fashion)
Source 3: https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-cloth-worn-at-the-waist-by-medieval-
fantasy-knights-called

3. Bobbin Lace - Celesta Graham 

Bobbin lace, unlike needle lace, is made by using multiple threads to twist or knot in an
intricate pattern, creating the beautiful woven material. Also known as pillow lace, or
bone lace, this handmade material was typically made by using a pillow or cushion to
outline the pattern with pins and drape the threads and bobbins down as the twisting
and knotting was done. During the end of the 16th century, and into the 17th century,
lace was used on many items of clothing, but especially on ruffs and collars, jackets,
gloves, and sashes. 

Sources:
1. Survey of History Costume, fifth edition
2. https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/pillow-bobbin-lace/
3. https://www.laceguild.org/a-brief-history-of-lace

4. Bombast: Sarah Smith

5.

It is the padding used to structure clothing and create fashionable silhouettes in

the 16th and 17th centuries. Tailors may have used whatever materials that they
had on hand in order to stiffen and add bulk to garments given that no one was
going to see it later. It was a form of stuffing made from cotton, wool, horsehair,
or even sawdust. It was used to stuff garments in the shoulders, chest, stomach
as well as the sleeves and legs.
Source: 
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/bombast-bombasted/
 http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-
Culture-16th-Century/Bombast.html
Survey of Historic Costume pg. 213

6. Bum Rolls: Kyla Pratt

Bum rolls were a crescent shaped roll that was padded and placed around the hips with
ribbon. It was worn under the skirt to give the wearer an illusion of a bigger “bum”. A
pleated skirt was normally placed over the top to create a larger and fuller look. It was
also meant to make the waist look dramatically smaller since the hips below looked
fuller. The bum rolls paved the way for the future changes in silhouette that gave us
panniers and bustles.
Sources:
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/bum-roll/ 
https://costumesbyantonia.com/blog/pssst-wanna-get-a-bum-roll/
https://twonerdyhistorygirls.blogspot.com/2013/05/bustles-bum-rolls-cork-rumps-
calvin.html 
7. Canions - Sam Carter & Mads Wilkens
Canions were very tight fitting extensions from the trunk hose that came from the knees
or slightly lower than the knees. They were usually made in the same color of fabric as
the trunk hose or a contrasting color. They joined the stockings to the breeches and
were worn by men as their purpose was to connect both halves of the legs. These were
common in England and were especially popular during Queen Elizabeth’s reign. 
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/canions
http://www.tudorshoppe.com/Merchant2/renaissance_costume_glossary.shtml
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1570-1579/
Survey of Historic Costume p.213

8. Copotain- Karlie Brown and Sabrina Walmer

a.
b. The copotain was a hat that was worn in the Renaissance. It was worn
both by men and women during this time period in the 1950’s. It was a tall
brim hat. Usually it was black and made of a thick felt fabric. It was
sometimes worn with a headband. It is known as the stable hat for the
Puritans, but during this era, it was worn very commonly. 
c. Source 1:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain
d. Source 2: https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-
almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/copotain 
e. Source 3: https://hatguide.co.uk/capotain/ 
 9. Codpiece- Allie Stoddard, Annie Diviney

The codpiece was a padded item that was placed in the front of the breeches.
There is speculation about the purpose of a codpiece, but scholars think it was in place
to prevent from diseases and rashes in that area. As time went on, functionality was
undermined, and codpieces were the height of fashion. They were accessorized,
bejeweled and ornamented to high heaven. Codpieces also gave freedom of
movement, where the tight breeches or stockings of the day did not. 
Sources: Survey of historic costume 
https://www.artofmanliness.com/style/clothing/bringing-back-the-codpiece/ 
https://www.newyorker.com/books/page-turner/a-brief-history-of-the-codpiece-the-
personal-protection-for-renaissance-equipment 
10. Conch - Hope Vander Meiden and Brianne Hear 

The conch, known in French as a conque, was a sheer, gauzelike veil so fine that in
some portraits it can just be barely seen. It was cut the full length of the body from
shoulder to floor and worn capelike over the shoulders. At the back of the neck it was
attached to a winglike construction that stood up like a high collar behind the head. In
England, it was more widely worn as purely decorative element of dress by women,
such as Queen Elizabeth, who were never widowed. 

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/tag/conch/
https://lowelldesigns.com/the-northern-renaissance/

11. Culots- Karlie Brown

These were pants worn by European upper-class men. They were worn at the knee and
they were attached to a full length hose. They were perfect for the activities they were
engaging in. Some of these activities included horseback riding, tennis, and bicycling.
They were such a staple of wealth that not owning them was a sure sign of poverty. In
the 19th century they made their switch to womens sportswear. And as time went on
they became a bigger fashion staple. 
1. Source 1: https://startupfashion.com/fashion-archives-history-of-culottes/ 
2. Source 2: https://www.bustle.com/articles/104171-the-history-of-culottes-goes-
beyond-those-weird-stretchy-capris-you-wore-in-high-school 
3. Source 3: The textbook 
12. Duckbills: Ruby Alder
Duckbills are wide toed shoes that were very popular during the renaissance. They were first
made popular by Charles VII, who wore these shoes to accommodate an extra toe.Duckbill
shoes replaced the crakow, which was a shoes previously popular but highly impractical due to
an extremely long toe. Duckbills are decorated with slashes, which allowed the lining to be
shown. Laws were put in placed to limit the maximum width to being 5 ½ inches. 

http://toeslayer-historyofshoes.blogspot.com/2009/01/broad-toed-shoes.html
https://philmaffetone.com/shoe-history/
https://historyofeuropeanfashion.wordpress.com/tag/renaissance-clothing/

13. Filet- 
Filet is one of two art forms that is said to have led to lace; it was embroidery patterns
on a sheer or net fabric. Another name for it is Lacis, probably where the name lace
came from. Filet was a decorative technique that was popular during the renaissance.
Lace-making probably started in Europe in the early 16th century. Filet differs from lace
due to filet requiring a backing fabric. 

Filet lace | lace | Britannica. (2023). In Encyclopædia Britannica.

https://www.britannica.com/art/filet-lace
The Century Recap. (2014, October 22). Northern Renaissance History of Dress;

Northern Renaissance History of Dress.

https://northrendigitaldress.wordpress.com/the-century-recap/

Survey of historic costume

14. French Farthingale: Jillian Hohnholz, Sarah Smith, Celesta Graham

Pictures:
Summary: The French farthingale was a shelf of Sorts that was Attached to the waist
area in Order to make the dress poof out at the back. It Was made of steel or cane
apokes fastened to the topmost hoop of a waistband. The circles at the end of the shelf
shape were the same diameter top to bottom. This was popular during the 1575 - 1600
time period.
Sources: 
Survey of historic costume p. 219, https://nationalclothing.org/685-wheel-farthingale-or-
french-farthingale-no-surviving-examples,-so-how-did-it-look-like.html
https://seeingsilhouettes.umwblogs.org/files/2011/02/French-Farthingale-Renaissance-
DressRvsd.pdf , 

15. Lace - Hope Vander Meiden

Lacemaking probably began in Europe just before the beginning of the 16th century.
Lace differs from either cutwork or filet in that it is constructed from threads, dispensing
with any backing fabric. Two types of lace were made: needlepoint and bobbin lace,
which may have originated in the Low Countries. These laces could be made from any
fine thread - linen and silk or cotton. Finally, lace was used in the 16th century to dress
men and women almost universally. 

https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/lace-making/renaissance-lace

https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/txt_l/hd_txt_l.htm

18. Medici Collar: Esther Wambold

The Medici collar is a type of ruff. The collars were made with light materials such as lace or
satin and were supported by wire or starch. They framed the sides and back of women's heads.
Women usually wore the collar with a dress that had a low neckline. Marie de Medici, the queen
of France, in the early 1600s popularized them. Marie was from Italy and imported expensive
laces from her home country despite the sumptuary laws against dealing with Italy. She used
the Medici collar to display them, and the cities of Venice and Florence made fortunes from their
laces.

Victor Perez Maldonado. (2018). Medici collar | Fashion History Timeline. Fitnyc.edu.
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/medici-collar/
Sminkey, A., Sokolovskya, A., & Wells, R. (n.d.). The Making of an Elizabethan Medici
Lace Collar by Professors. https://www.easternct.edu/create/2022/_documents/sminkey-
art-art-history-anya-sokolovskaya-rebecca-wells.pdf
admin. (2022). Medici collar. Bloshka.info. http://bloshka.info/2022/09/14/medici-collar/
20. Needlepoint Lace - Lillian Hagey
First brought into the fashion world in the late 15th century, widely believed to have first
developed in Italy, but it could be from Flanders. It was and still is the epitome of elegance and
luxury. Only people of wealth could afford it. It flooded every court costume and was often used
for fancy ruffs, cuffs, and collars. When being made it is a single-thread technique and is put
together using various embroidery techniques.

https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/lace-making/needlepoint-lace

http://www.marlamallett.com/l-needle.htm

https://www.britannica.com/art/needle-lace

22. Pair of Bodys-Larissa 

 A pair of bodies or stays were the supportive garments that predated corsets.
These pieces first became popular during the sixteenth-century, they reached the
zenith of their popularity during the Victorian era. The word Stays, was the term
used for laces bodices that were fully boned and worn under clothes from the late
16th up into the 18th century. These boned garments were what they originally
called a ‘pair of bodies’–for each side of the stays.
Terminology: What's the difference between stays, jumps & a corset - The
Dreamstress.
History of corsets - Wikipedia.

25. Petticoat-Mads Wilkins

 What a petticoat was was an underskirt that was worn under a dress. It was
meant to be worn under the skirt, but part of the style was to have it visible from
the front of the skirt. Petticoats helped give fullness to a dress and keep the
wearer warm. This was originally a term used to describe undershirts worn by
men but was later used as an underskirt worn by women. 
https://ccrenfaire.com/how-did-people-dress-in-renaissance-england/
https://www.businessoffashion.com/education/fashion-az/petticoats
Survey of Historic Costume p.216-217
Pictures:
https://beautelicate.com/products/petticoat-42
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petticoat
28. Stays: Sam Carter

Summary: Often thought of as a corset, the stays of the 16th century were rather
different than that of their more well known Victorian counterparts. While corsets were
eventually used as primarily a shapewear garment, the stays were used to create a flat,
cylindrical torso along with flattening and raising the bust. To achieve this look, the
stays, also known as a pair of bodies or body, were stiffened and outfitted with strips of
whalebone, wood, metal, or other rigid materials, called the busks or boning. Modern
myth deems both garments rather uncomfortable to wear but really only gains credence
with the tight laced corset of the 19th century. Stays, and corsets if done correctly, were
meant to be worn comfortably and throughout the day of any woman of the time. They
were specifically fitted to the lady who wore them and not laced so tight as to restrict
breathing and movement. 
Sources: Page 215, Survey of Historic Costume, Phyllis G. Tortora, Keith Eubank
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/corsets/history.html 
https://silhouettescostumes.com/the-eras-we-build/stays-corsets-introduction-overview/ 
31. Stomacher - Michaela Facuri
The stomacher is a decorative garment worn at the front of the body that is a triangular
shape from the 15 to the 18 century. It was worn by both men and women. Men wore
th th

the stomacher as a decorative front piece in the V-shaped opening of their jackets.
Women filled in the laced over open bodice with stomachers in their gowns. The
stomacher was essential to gowns during this time, and were typically found in the
shape of a ‘V’ or ‘U’. The main purposes it had was for decoration and to provide
structure to the garment. The designs of stomachers varied between being
embroidered, jeweled, or decorating in bows.

Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stomacher 
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/stomacher/ 
https://www.britannica.com/topic/stomacher 
32. Supportasse: Brianne Heer

As ruffs got bigger they needed to be supported. The support from these ruffs is called a
supportasse. The supportasse also had other names such as underpropper, pickadil or
rebato. They were made with wire and then fashioned in a design. The most common
were loops and scallops. They were then covered with silk, gold, or thread. Other
materials could be used as a base such as whalebone or cardboard.
Supportasse | Unknown | V&A Explore The Collections (vam.ac.uk)
Supportasse - Wikipedia
Page 220, Survey of Historic Costume, Phyllis G. Tortora, Keith Eubank

33. Trunk Hose: Jillian Hohnholz

Summary: Upper hose and nether hose through time became more of a combined item;
a “large padded breech”. These could have been worn with a cod piece, however the
cod piece did go out of style after the mid point of the century. These Trunk hose looked
like very poofy pants or shorts, and could be slashed like other popular clothing of the
time. Trunk hose could be made out of many different materials, in the picture on the
right is a pair of Trunk Hose from the Met Gala which are made of silk and velvet
fabrics. Trunk Hose became popular around the Elizabethan period, after King Henry
VII started the trend of the breeches silhouette.
Sources: Survey of Historic Costume pg 211-212,
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/26925 , https://lowelldesigns.com/the-
northern-renaissance/ 
34. Verdugale - Annie Diviney

The Verdugale, interchangeable with Farthingale, was essentially an early version of a

hoopskirt. It was a hooped petticoat worn under the clothing to provide structure and the
desired silhouette. In the Verdugale, which was a precursor to the farthingale, the hoops
were visible, or at least the structure of the hoops, was visible in the outer garment. This
was a part of the style. THe hoops were covered by velvet or another decorative trim or
material. This style originated in spain and was adopted and expanded upon by most of
northern europe throughout the 16th century. 
Sources: 
Pg 217, Survey of Historic Costume, Phyllis G. Tortora, Keith Eubank
farthingale: meaning, synonyms - WordSense
History of the Spanish Farthingale (elizabethancostume.net)