Chapter 11 (The Directoire and Empire Period)

1. A La Titus (Hairstyle)
A La Titus was a hairstyle that was interchangeable with the “A La Victime” hairstyle.
Both styles were short and choppy, reminiscent of guillotine victims. The hairstyle was
also a nod to roman statues. The distinction between the two styles was not in the style
itself, which is nearly identical, but in the name. The Victime hairstyle was specifically in
reference to guillotine victims, and Titus was a tribute to roman statues. The name
comes from Titus Brutus, a founder of the roman empire. A play called Brutus, by
Voltaire was put on stage in 1729. The actors had their hair cut short to play the roman
characters, and it soon gained popularity
Sources: Survey of Historic Costume p. 317
https://fantasticfacts.net/6683/ 
https://www.amusingplanet.com/2020/04/the-guillotine-haircut.html

2. A La Victime (Hairstyle) - Allie Stoddard

In our textbook, the name of this hairstyle is described as being in reference to the short
hairstyles that they would give to those about to be sent to the guillotine. Further
sources mention the possible existence of bals á la victime. These were rumored
tributes to the dead, in which people would dress as the victim to celebrate their
statement. In reality, it is likely that these celebrations were nothing more than families
and friends coming together to mourn. The hairstyle was likely founded before the
sensational origin story was created.
Sources: https://www.transcriptmag.com/post/coiffure-%C3%A0-la-victime-the-urban-
legend-of-the-guillotine-haircuts and https://timeline.com/french-revolution-haircut-
guillotine-83fa3e370d05 and https://www.amusingplanet.com/2020/04/the-guillotine-
haircut.html 
 3. Bicorne Hat - Lillian Hagey

The Bicorne Hat, a hat that came into military fashion in the 1790s. It is a varient of the
previously popular three corner hat, but now is a two corner hat. It could be worn front to back or
side to side. This hat was adopted into many militaries including, Americans, Englishman, and
the French. Mainly worn by Naval officers. Someone you might recognize famously wears this
hat, Napoleon Bonaparte. 
https://www.canterburymuseum.com/collections/collection-highlights/lightbox/36#:~:text=This
%20hat%20was%20worn%20by,part%20of%20the%20dress%20uniform.

https://philamuseum.org/collection/object/138520

https://hatguide.co.uk/bicorn/ 

4. Bonnet Rouge Hat:Sarah Smith

Also known as the “Liberty cap” or Red Phrygian. They were a soft cone shaped
hat with the top cured forward. Worn by french militants to show their loyalty and
was widely used in propaganda. It became the official symbol of the revolutionary
state. Since it was a symbol of allegiance to the revolution it was adopted by
anyone, including aristocrats, who wished to avoid the guillotine. It has been
resurrected at various moments of tension in French political history, right into
the twentieth century.
 Source: https://www.thoughtco.com/phrygian-cap-bonnet-rouge-1221893
https://ageofrevolution.org/200-object/phrygian-cap/
https://mediakron.bc.edu/fashiondecor/french-revolution-fashion/french-
revolution-fashion/phyrigian-cap
5. Carmagnole-Mads Wilkins

A carmagnole was a short jacket that was hip length at the front and in some
cases, had a full cut at the back. These jackets were usually of darker colors and
were made of wool or cloth. These were worn by men of the working class and
were named after a song and dance entitled, “La Carmagnole”, which was
associated with the working class. Carmagnoles were named after Carmagnola,
which was a town in Italy where these coats were associated with peasants.
French Revolutionary Fashion | Unframed (lacma.org)
'Carmagnole' jacket | Palais Galliera | Musée de la mode de la Ville de Paris
Survey of Historic Costume p.309
6. Chapeau- Emily Prueitt
A chapeau is a hat or a head covering. Chapeau is the french word for hat. Head
coverings transitioned from hats to bonnets from 1790-1820. How they did their hair
was was important for wearing a hat because they may need it a certain way.
Sometimes it was tied back in a net or tied back so they could put a bonnet over their
hair. A hairstyle that became popular during the french revolution was called Haircut a la
victime which derived from how they would cut women's hair off before they were sent
to the guillotine.
Source 1:https://www.pinterest.com/pin/583286589211902481/ 
Source 2: https://www.geriwalton.com/evolution-of-womens-hats-from-1700-to/ 
Source 3: survey of historic costume 

7. Cossacks-Kyla Pratt & Sabrina Walmer

 a. A group of people from the Caspian & Black seas, Northern
Hinterlands.People who didn’t fit in with society and were under a non
form of government. Didn’t have specific uniform but their outfits were
made to protect, adapted from military fits. It seems like the majority were
Russians, Khazars, Ukrainians, Tatars. They wore sheepskin hats, boots,
circassian caftan, short coat, and baggy trousers. Known for rebelling
against Russia’s government, helped create Russian empire model.
b. Source 1:https://www.britannica.com/topic/Cossack 
c. Source 2: https://www.kronoskaf.com/syw/index.php?
title=Russian_Cossacks_Uniforms#:~:text=Cossacks%20did%20not%20wear
%20uniform,coat%2C%20baggy%20trousers%20and%20boots.
d. Source 3: http://www.encyclopediaofukraine.com/display.asp?linkpath=pages
%5CC%5CO%5CCossacks.htm 
8. Cravat-Kyla Pratt
Cravats are a neck cloth like lace or linen that is usually found below the neck in-
between the suit and it was worn by tying the fabric around the neck. The fabric then
just hung down over top of the shirt. It came from the French word for croat and was
derived from the neck-high lace collars of Charles I. There were many different kinds of
cravats that were created like ones with ribbons, embroidery, lace, tassels, etc. Open
dress coats even became popular eventually to show off one’s cravat.
Sources:
https://janeausten.co.uk/blogs/mens-fashion/neckcloths-cravats-stocks-solitaires-
jabots?currency=usd 
https://turnbullandasser.com/blogs/off-the-cuff/off-the-cuff-history-of-neckwear 
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/tuxedo-black-tie-guide/black-tie-tuxedo-history/
regency-evolution-tailcoat-cravat/ 

9. Dandy: Jillian Hohnholz

Summary: A “Dandy” was a man considered to be fashionable, well dressed, stayed
within the best circles of society, and was “always ready with a witty comment”(p.314).
Someone considered to be a dandy was primarily preoccupied with fashion. One well
known man that was considered to be a dandy was Beau Brummel. George “Beau”
Brummel was the Prince Regent of the time in England and may have been the trend
setter for this new style or type of person. 
Sources: Survey of Historic Costume p. 314,
https://andrewsolomon.com/articles/dandyism/ ,
http://www.dandyism.net/2012/12/02/gq-on-beau-brummell-it-just-doesnt-suit/ 
10. Day Cap- Karlie Brown and Ruby 

Small lace caps or muslin worn by mature women indoors.The day caps were used for
decency as well as for the lower class women to cover their hair that wasn’t done as
elegantly as wealthy women. Some of the caps covered the whole head tightly while
others sat on top of the head secured with a ribbon. This hat can be seen in movies like
Pride and Prejudice. The caps were worn basically everywhere except for things like the
opera or balls. 
Sources:
1. Survey of Historic Costume, fifth edition, page 317
2. eng18th century caps.html 
3. 18hauben.shtml 

11. Gypsy Hat - Hope Vander Meiden, Celesta Graham, Allie Stoddard 
The gypsy hat had a low crown and a wide brim, frequently made of straw and
decorated with ribbons. During this time period, hats were used not only for outdoor
use, but for more semi-formal occasions such as “theaters or balls”.(317)

Sources: candicehern.com

https://aubreyshuga.wordpress.com/the-directoire-and-empire-period/
Survey of Historic Costume, fifth edition, page 317

12. Habit Shirt: Jillian Hohnholz, Larissa Crandall 

 
Summary: this habit shirt was open in the front with frills down the center front. It had
square gussets in the armpits and triangular gussets at the corners of the neck opening.
The wrists had wide ruffles as well. The men's version of this habit shirt had a tie in the
back to prevent the shirt getting in the way of their coat tails. The women's habit shirt
often had wide collars on them. 
Sources:A Lady's Habit Shirt
JP Ryan 18th Century Riding Habit Shirt
 Habit Shirts

13. High Stomacher (Apron) Dress - Annie Diviney

The apron dress was a high waistline dress that adjusted and fastened at the front and
had a closure in the front or sometimes the sides. The dress seems like it had several
different variations, but the common thread is that the skirt was sewn to the bodice only
at the back. The side seams were left open several inches below the waist and the front
tie often was attached to the front skirt and brought around back to tie in the back like
an apron!

Sources:
Survey of Historic Costume by Phyllis G. Tortora & Keith Eubank (p. 316)
https://edutube.hccs.edu/media/Fashion+History++
+The+Directoire+and+the+Empire+Period+++1790-1820/0_i5aaj1bi 
https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/fashion-revolution-during-regency-period/

14. Incroyables - Michaela Facuri

The Incroyables, or “incredibles”, were the male members of an aristocratic youth

movement in Paris during the French Revolution. They were the extremists in fashion.
These political young men made their statement by dressing in outlandish fashions.
This was done to mock and over exaggerate the lavish styles worn in the court of King
Louis XVI. Though many scorned them and called them immoral, their styles reminded
people of the time before the revolution where extravagant and outrageous fashions
were worn seriously. They wore waistcoats that were loose at the shoulders, very tight
breeches, cravats or neckties, and collars that covered up to their chins. In addition,
they wore bicorne hats and carried knobbled bludgeons or canes, which they called
their “executive power”. They also had their hair shaggy and unkempt. 
Sources:
Survey of Historic Costume by Phyllis G. Tortora & Keith Eubank (p. 310)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Incroyables_and_merveilleuses 
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-18th-
Century/Incroyables-and-Merveilleuses.html 

15. Merveilleuses- Celesta Graham 

Merveilleuses, meaning, “the marvelous ones” was a term used hand in hand with
Incroyables, to indicate fashion hardliners after the Reign of Terror. This term, specifically used
for women, indicated those in a sort of “fashionable aristocratic subculture”. These women
were well known for the sheer fabrics, low necklines, and trains that they wore. They
had major influence on boisterous fashion trends and were often well known, not only
for their style, but for their lack of pronouncing “R”s as a way to further distinguish
themselves from lower classes.

Sources:
 Survey of Historic Costume, fifth edition, page 310
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Incroyables_and_merveilleuses
 https://www.parisology.net/incroyables-et-merveilleuses
 16. Pantalettes - Hope Vander Meiden

Pantalettes originated in France in the early 19th century. They are a form of leggings or
long drawers. They could be one piece or two pieces. A majority of them are made from
white linen fabric and could be decorated with lace or other decorative designs. Ankle
length pantalettes for women were worn under hoop skirts to ensure the legs were
covered up. Interestly, until the 19th century, boys wore dresses until they were about
two. Because of this style, they would wear children's length pantalettes as well. 

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/pantalettes/

http://www.katetattersall.com/early-victorian-undergarments-part-4-pantelettes-
pantalettes/

17. Pantaloons- Karlie Brown

Pantaloons were mostly worn by men, they were a tight fitting pant with buttons on the
waist and thighs. “Men's tight-fitting trousers, esp those fastening under the instep worn
in the late 18th and early 19th centuries”. The fabric was usually a knit and cut on the
bias so it would be fitted on the leg. They were often paired with Hessian boots. Women
were also wearing pantaloons during this time. The style was worn for activities like
hunting, riding horses, and swimming. 
https://janeaustensworld.com/2013/06/21/regency-fashion-mens-breeches-pantaloons-
and-trousers/ 
http://www.katetattersall.com/victorian-women-in-trousers-pants-pantaloons/ 
https://www.dictionary.com/browse/pantaloons 
18. Pelisse- Emily Prueitt
A pelisse is a women’s long coat with long sleeves and is open in the front. It was worn
during the 19th century. It could also refer to a man’s military jacket. Women’s Pelisse
were usually full length. They came in colors like navy blue, beige, grey and white. The
Pelisse gained popularity during the last quarter of the 18th century. The pelisse was
made of cotton or silk. The puffed sleeve seemed to be popular on the pelisse.
Source 1:https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82141#:~:text=The
%20fashionable%20female%20silhouette%20changed,prevailing%20influence%20was
%20classical%20antiquity. 
Source 2: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/pelisse/#:~:text=A%20woman's%20long
%20coat%20with,jackets%20and%20women's%20sleeved%20mantles. 
Source 3:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pelisse 
19. Quizzing Glasses: Ruby Alder
Magnifying glasses with a handle worn around the neck. It was held up to the eye so the wearer
could view objects better. Both men and women used quizzing glasses, as they were a major
fad of the time. It is said that dandies would have their optic nerve surgically loosened to justify
using quizzing glasses, however, this is exaggerated to show the popularity of the glasses. It is
not to be confused with a monocle which is similar but meant to fit into the eyesocket so hands
did not need to be used. 
Sources:
1. https://candicehern.com/regencyworld/quizzing-glasses/#:~:text=A
%20%E2%80%9Cquizzing%20glass%E2%80%9D%20was%20a,rather%20than%20a
%20simple%20magnifier. 
2. https://thecozydrawingroom.com/2013/04/24/the-power-of-the-quizzing-glass/ 
3. Survey of Historic Costume, fifth edition

20. Reticule Brianne Heer:

The reticule was a purse that women used during the 19th century. It was used to carry
everyday items that a woman could need such as a handkerchief, coin purse, and
notebook. Women would stuff the bags so full it became a joke to call them a ridicule.  
21. Round Gown: Sarah Smith & Michaela Facuri
The round gown of the 1790s stands just before the complete renunciation of
three-dimension shaping and color in the First Empire, more or less imitating
Greek sculpture bereft of polychromy. The piece fully anticipates the Empire style
 but retains one last vestige of rococo ornament and incident. A round gown is a
dress with a full (’round’) skirt, of which the front is not attached to the bodice. In
the 18th century, most dresses were actually open in front, and had a petticoat
underneath which shows in the front. The round gown is an exception to this
‘rule’. A round gown is different from most ‘later’ styles of dresses, in that the
bodice is attached only to the back of the skirt, while the front of the skirt has ties
and is attached underneath the front bodice with ties. The sides of the skirts have
slits to allow for getting into the skirt .

Source: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80580 
https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2018/02/02/round-gown-inspiration/ 
http://www.larsdatter.com/18c/round-gowns.html 
22. Spencer: Esther Wambold

A Spencer is a short jacket that is said to have been named after the 2nd Earl Spencer. He was
said to have once stood too close to the fire and burned his coattails. After that, he
commissioned a tail-less coat that wouldn’t catch on fire. The men’s version was cropped at the
waist, while the women’s version fell just under the chest because of the high-waisted silhouette
of their gowns. Spencers were worn outdoors and indoors and were made with many fabrics
and usually contrasted the rest of the outfit.

Student, F. (2018). spencer jacket | Fashion History Timeline. Fitnyc.edu.

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/spencer-jacket/

Joanna. (2018, May 5). Historical Costume 1800-1820: a spencer for a skimpy gown? -

Liberta Books. Liberta Books. https://libertabooks.com/costume/historical-

costume-1800-1820-spencer/
Directoire style fashion of women in 1795–1800 – HiSoUR – Hi So You Are. (2023).

Hisour.com. https://www.hisour.com/western-fashion-of-women-in-1795-1800-

32569/

24. Tricolor Ribbon Cockade: Sabrina W

a. These were decorative pieces meant to be worn on the hat or lapels as a sybol
/badge or patriotism. The symbolism is partly in the colors, white represents the
monarchy, while blue and red represent the colours of the city of Paris, which
according to the mayor, are signs of “the noble and eternal alliance between the
monarch and the people”. The tricolour cockade thus became a symbol of
patriotism.They have been worn over the centuries to display social or political
stances, and in modern times to communicate high quality in products
b. Source 1: https://www.elysee.fr/en/french-presidency/the-french-
flag#:~:text=White%20represents%20the%20monarchy%2C%20while,began
%20to%20appear%20on%20lapels.
c. Source 2:
https://www.indianamuseum.org/blog-post/how-to-create-a-cockade/#:~:text=Coc
kades%20are%20pleated%20or%20knotted,communicate%20high%20quality
%20in%20products.
d. Source 3:
https://www.amazon.com/Tri-color-Ribbon-Cockade-White-Brooch/dp/B075WH4
CKQ