18th Century British and Anglo-Colonial Shirts, Check and Striped Shirts and Furniture Check.

Some examples and resources to aid in the reconstruction of an 18th century English style shirt.

Below is a small collection of links to some eminently useful examples of the period.

There are some very good views of an 18th century shirt here.

http://statenisland.pastperfect-online.com/00039cgi/mweb.exe?request=record;id=440299E2-1BBB-4888-9563-
136031784613;type=101

If the above link does not work, please try,

http://statenisland.pastperfect-online.com/00039cgi/mweb.exe?request=ks

Enter "shirt linen" (without quotation marks).

We can see a good overall picture in a shirt with a provenance to Colonel William Ledyard, killed at Fort
Griswold on September 7 1781.

RWu3d- Col. William Ledyard's linen shirt

http://www.historicalimagebank.com/gallery/main.php/v/album02/album21/album57/RWu3d-
+Col_+William+Ledyard_s+linen+shirt+csl.jpg.html

A pattern from Nora Waugh, "The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600 - 1900."

http://darlingregency.blogspot.com/2010/12/from-inside-out-shirt.html

Also, please see,

"Cutting Instructions for a late 18th Century Shirt."

("Instructions for Cutting Out Apparel for the Poor; Principally intended for the Assistance of the
Patronesses of Sunday Schools, and other Charitable Institutions, but Useful in all Families." J. Walter[?].
London. 1789.)

http://www.scribd.com/doc/195676927/Cutting-Instructions-for-a-late-18th-Century-Shirt

Shirt Details from Period Art and Artifacts.

This group shows details of the collar, shoulder straps and shoulder seam lining.

Below, detail from "The Potter Family". Anonymous artist, ca 1750.

Newport Rhode Island Historical Society.

http://bjws.blogspot.com/2009/01/1733-woman-tale-tea-table_510.html

Below, Nathaniel Smibert, "Samson Occum". Ca. 1751-1756.

Bowdoin College Museum of Art.

http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/full.php?ID=18233

Below, John Singleton Copley, "Paul Revere". Ca 1768-1770.

Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/full.php?ID=15682

Below, Gabriel Bray, "Lieutenant Gabriel Bray RN shaving". March 1775.

Royal Museums Greenwich.

http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/200903.html
Below, George Romney, "Joseph Brant". 1776.

National Gallery of Canada.

http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=53404

1783.

"Run away from the subscriber, last Thursday night, John Fulk, a lad of 16 years of age, well built, thick
set, dark complexion, full faced, and dark hair; had on, when he went away, a light coloured coat,
pewter buttons, jacket of the same, with wooden buttons, a pair of canvas trowsers, a pair of new
buckskin breeches under them, old shoes and silver buckles, with a rose in the middle, a new felt hat,
new French shirt, with broad shoulder straps, and a new silk handkerchief. He is of Dutch descent, but
speaks tolerable good English, born at Shamokin, and last summer followed shalloping in Delaware.
Whoever takes up said servant lad, and secures him in any goal, so that his master may get him again,
shall have Thirty Pounds reward, and reasonable charges, paid by the subscriber, living in Race street,
Philadelphia. John Hide.

N.B. The two fore fingers on one of his hands have the nails remarkably on one side.

[Pennsylvania Gazette, 22 January 1783]"

[Courtesy, Don Hagist's collection, "1700 Runaways".]

Below, Thomas Hardy, "William Augustus Bowles (1763-1805), as a Native American (Creek) Indian
Chief", Upton House, Warwickshire. National Trust.

http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/446698

Below, "The Aristocratical Cook with a Constitutional dinner", published by Bowles and Carver after
Robert Dighton, ca 1790-1799.
British Museum.

http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/search_the_collection_database/search_object_details.aspx?objectid=1641952&part
id=1&searchText=aristocratical+cook&fromADBC=ad&toADBC=ad&numpages=10&images=on&orig=%2fresearch%2fsearch_th
e_collection_database.aspx&currentPage=1
Check Shirts.

Below, James Macardell after Gabriel Mathias, "Captain Andrew Wilkinson". 1755.
National Portrait Gallery.

http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portraitLarge/mw42950/Andrew-Wilkinson

Below, "The Human Passions Delineated..." [Handwritten] “The Sailor trying to get his pay from the
Exchequer.” 1773.
Lewis Walpole Library Digital Collection.

http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/fullzoom.asp?imageid=lwlpr03698

Below, Gabriel Bray, "A Sticker-up of Bills on Tower Hill at the Rendezvous at the King's Arms."
Royal Museums Greenwich.

http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/200760.html

Below, Gabriel Bray, "Seamen relaxing on the Pallas” 1775.

Royal Museums Greenwich.

http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/200902.html

"Bachelor's Fare, or Bread and Cheese with Kisses", Printed by Carington Bowles, 1777. Royal Museums
Greenwich.
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/128181.html

It was not unknown for a check shirt to have white linen sleeves.

"...two check Shirts, one of them pieced at the Sleeves with white Linen..."

"RUN away from Capt. Robert Dudley, of King and Queen County, on the Fourth of this Instant February,
a Servant Man, named Cornelius Maddin; he is an Irishman, of pretily [sic] low Stature, but very well sat,
of a dark Complexion, with short black Hair, but somewhat grey with Age. He carried with him two check
Shirts, one of them pieced at the Sleeves with white Linen, and both patched with white Cotton, a Pair
of old green Breeches, two old dark colour'd double-breasted Kersey Coats, a Wastecoat laced with a
Leather String, one Half thick Wastecoat, with Hooks and Eyes, instead of Buttons, a Pair of Virginia Yarn
Stockings and Shoes..."

"Virginia Gazette" February 2 to February 9, 1738 [1739].

http://www2.vcdh.virginia.edu/gos/search/relatedAd.php?adFile=rg39.xml&adId=v1739020023
Below, John Singleton Copley, "Watson and the Shark," 1778.

National Gallery of Art.

http://www.googleartproject.com/collection/national-gallery-of-art-washington-dc/artwork/watson-and-the-shark-john-
singleton-copley/717635/

Below, Printed for R. Sayer and J. Bennett “A Scene at Vauxhall Stairs.” 1779.
Lewis Walpole Library Digital Collection.

http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/fullzoom.asp?imageid=lwlpr04416

Below, Published by Carington Bowles after John Collet. "Paul Jones shooting a Sailor who had
attempted to strike his Colours in an Engagement." Ca. 1779.
British Museum.

http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1449225&partId=1

Below, Published by Carington Bowles after John Collet. "Paul Jones shooting a Sailor who had
attempted to strike his Colours in an Engagement." Ca. 1779.
British Museum.

http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=3356783&partId=1&searc
hText=Paul+Jones+shooting+a+sailor+who+had+attempted+to+strike+his+colours+in+an+engagement&page=1

Below, John Collet, "The Embarkation". Ca 1775-1785.

National Maritime Museum.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/the-embarkation-173310

Below, "The Sailor's Return, or Valour Rewarded". 1783.

"The Many-Headed Hydra: Sailors, Slaves, Commoners and the Hidden History of the Revolutionary
Atlantic." By Peter Linebaugh and Marcus Rediker (Verso, 2000) p. 164.

http://www.eco-action.org/dod/no10/books_hydra_sailors.jpg

Below, "General Carleton of Whitby", sank 1785.

"The color on the checked shirt sleeve fragment (W-32/633/96 has completely faded, but it is possible
to discern the check weave of the fabrick (Fig. 11). The checks are each 3/16 in. (5mm) square. The
sleeve is very finely gathered to the cuff. The most interesting feature is that the cuff fastened with
sleeve buttons (cuff links). There is a 5/8 in. (1.59 cm) long buttonhole on each side of the cuff to accept
the buttons." p. 184.

Babits, Lawrence and Brenckle, Matthew; "Sailor Clothing." p. 167. In Ossowski, Waldemar, ed.; "The
General Carleton Shipwreck, 1785." Archaeological Research of the Polish Maritime Museum. Vol. 1.
Maritime Museum in Gdansk. Gdansk, Poland. 2008.

http://www.academia.edu/2323059/The_Shipwreck_General_Carleton_1785_Wrak_statku_General_Carleton_1785_Badania_
Archeologiczne_Centralnego_Muzeum_Morskiego_t._I_Gdansk_editor_2008

Swatches of Checks.

A file of links to the swatches in the 1771 Bower swatch book.

"In 1771 this sample book was an innovative marketing tool that traveled from Liverpool to New York
City with Captain Nicholson on the brigantine Havannah. Its five hundred swatches, made by the
Manchester manufacturing firm of Benjamin and John Bower..."
http://www.scribd.com/doc/208365533/A-1771-Textile-Sample-Book-Metropolitan-Museum-of-Art

Striped Shirts.

Below, Benjamin West, "Death of Wolfe". 1770.

National Gallery of Canada.

http://faculty.umf.maine.edu/walter.sargent/public.www/web%20230/Unit%209%20Wars%20of%20Empire.html

Below, John Singleton Copley, "Watson and the Shark," 1778.

National Gallery of Art.

http://www.googleartproject.com/collection/national-gallery-of-art-washington-dc/artwork/watson-and-the-shark-john-
singleton-copley/717635/

Below, John Raphael Smith after B. Vandergucht, "A Student of the Stable". London, 1783.
British Museum.

http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1615368&partId=1&peopl
e=107167&peoA=107167-2-70&page=1

Below, "General Carleton of Whitby", sank 1785.

"Despite heavy damage, enough remains of the blue and white striped linen shirt fragment (W-
32/588/96) to show that it was finely constructed (Fig. 10). Made of moderately fine linen with 1/16 in
(1.5 mm) wide blue stripes, the shirt's pieces were joined using a fine and even backstitch (11 per inch, 6
per cm). The sleeve was pieced together from two 9 1/4 in. (23.50 cm) wide lengths of fabric. The
underside of the arm is sewn with a typical felled seam, but on the top of the arm, the pieces were
butted and joined by an over-hand stitch. Pattern and construction techniques are typical of the period,
and display the usual care taken to preserve the valuable textile." p. 184.

Babits, Lawrence and Brenckle, Matthew; "Sailor Clothing." p. 167. In Ossowski, Waldemar, ed.; "The
General Carleton Shipwreck, 1785." Archaeological Research of the Polish Maritime Museum. Vol. 1.
Maritime Museum in Gdansk. Gdansk, Poland. 2008.

http://www.academia.edu/2323059/The_Shipwreck_General_Carleton_1785_Wrak_statku_General_Carleton_1785_Badania_
Archeologiczne_Centralnego_Muzeum_Morskiego_t._I_Gdansk_editor_2008

Appendix A. Furniture Checks.

The following are provided as a comparison of choice of size for shirts, with those used for furnishings.

Below, Sir Joshua Reynolds, "Samuel Johnson", 1756-1757.

National Portrait Gallery.

http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw03491/Samuel-Johnson?LinkID=mp02446&role=sit&rNo=0

Below, John Hamilton Mortimer, "Self Portrait". Ca. 1760.

Mallett, London and New York.

http://www.antiquesandfineart.com/articles/article.cfm?request=857

Below, Benjamin Wilson, "Conversation Piece", ca 1770-1775.

Leeds Museums and Art Galleries.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/conversation-piece-38209

http://www.oceansbridge.com/oil-paintings/product/72536/conversationpiece

Below, Attributed to Henry Walton, "A Gentleman at Breakfast", 1775-1780.

Toledo Museum of Art.

http://www.toledomuseum.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/1956_77.jpg

Benjamin and John Bower, Manchester. 1771.

Metropolitan Museum of Art.

http://www.antiquesandfineart.com/articles/article.cfm?request=857

Appendix B. Descriptions of Shirts.

Descriptions of runaway servants, deserters and other sources provide some useful notes.

Wristbands made for "Sleeve Buttons" or Buttons.

A search of the Virginia Runaways database has five results for "sleeve buttons" and one that can be
presumed.

3 are stolen (one is a duplicate ad)

1 is for goods he would offer for sale

2 as part of his clothing.

"RUN away from the Subscriber, in New Kent, the 7th Instant (July) THOMAS SMITH, an indented
Servant, born in England, a House Carpenter by Trade, and an excellent Workman. He is Middle sized,
wears his own brown Hair, which he is fond of dressing, has a fair Skin, ruddy Complexion, large blue
Eyes, a protuberant [sic] Mouth and Nose, one of his Fingers has been wounded, which makes it appear,
and I believe is, shorter than the others. He has also a small Scar on his Jaw, as well as I can recollect,
and is fond of spirituous [sic] Liquors. His Dress was a Virginia Nankin Coat and Breeches, a Damask
Waistcoat, a good Hat, new Country made Shoes, Silver Buckles, Stone Sleeve Buttons, White Stockings,
and a black Silk Handkerchief: But as he is an arful Fellow it is probable he may change his Dress, and not
unlikely that he may forge a Pass, which he is very capable of doing. I will give 5 l. if taken within 50
Miles, 7 l. 10 s. for a greater Distance, and if out of the Colony 10 l. and all reasonable expenses, to any
Person who shall deliver him to me

J. ARMISTEAD."

"Virginia Gazette", July 29, 1776.

http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/ot2www-
costa?specfile=/web/data/users/costa/costa.o2w&act=surround&offset=3060512&tag=Runaway+Serva
nt:+Virginia+Gazette+(Dixon+&+Hunter),+Williamsburg,+July+29,+1776.++&query=sleeve+button

These are presumed to be "sleeve buttons".

"RUN away from the subscriber, ROBERT ROBINSON, a valuable joiner and carpenter, about 28 years of
age, 5 feet 6 inches high, makes a good appearance both in person and in dress, wears his own dark
coloured hair cut short before and behind, has a clean skin, and is of a thin make; had on, a fashionable
good beaver hat, a fine cloth coat, of a parson's gray colour, with hair buttons, white Russia drill
breeches, and a double breasted waistcoat of corded light jeans or fustian, light blue worsted stockings,
single channel pumps not much wore, and wears in his sleeves either a pair of black or a pair of oval
purple buttons set in yellow metal. He was born in the south of Scotland, worked long in the city of
Edinburgh, and in the town of Kelso upon Tweed, and also undertook and built a church at Inverness, in
the north of Scotland. The said servant was purchased three weeks ago at Monday point, on Potowmack,
from on board the Friendship, Capt. Park, from Glasgow. He speaks broad, writes a good hand, and may
probably make himself out a pass. All masters of vessels are cautioned against receiving him, and I will
give 3 l. to any person that will deliver him to me, in Lancaster county, besides what the law allows.
MUNGO HARVEY."

"Virginia Gazette", June 23, 1775.

http://www2.vcdh.virginia.edu/gos/search/relatedAd.php?adFile=sg75.xml&adId=v1775062015

Don Hagist's collection "1700 Runaways", has 3 results among stolen goods; one worn by a robber.
"One Hundred Pounds Reward.

On the 26th of July, 1782, was robbed from John Johnston (a waggoner) on the great road between
Lancaster and Philadelphia, near the 38 mile stone, the following goods, viz. one piece of brown camblet,
one piece black durant, one half piece fine linen, 7 pieces yard wide Britannia, half pound black sewing
silk, half pound cloth coloured ditto, one bag brown mohair buttons, two and three quarter pounds
Scotch thread, 6 pieces narrow Britannias, 8 cambrick handkerchiefs, one piece of green moreen, one
piece of double black mode, two pieces of cambrick, one piece striped muslins, eleven kenting
handkerchiefs, three pieces and a remnant of three yards and 7-8ths of dark calicoe, two pieces of fine
lawn, 9 dozen knives and forks, one dozen table spoons, one dozen ivory combs, half dozen of razors,
two pieces spotted bandanoe handkerchiefs, 2300 Chapple needles, 12 yards black sattin, 5 yards and 1-
8th white narrow mode, 9 silk romals, two pieces narrow black ribbon, two pieces blue stampt pocket
handkerchiefs, 20 dozen coloured and black Barcelona ditto, 22 and half yards fine holland, 3 yards
white, yard wide mode, 3 pieces nankeen, half dozen double Barcelona handkerchiefs, two pieces
striped lawn, one piece of plain kenting, 7 and half yards spotted lawn, one piece black ell wide persian,
18 and half yards of red spotte calicoe, two dozen broad tape, one dozen narrow ditto, 16 pieces
nonsopretties, 7 pieces black and coloured ribbons. Whoever takes up the robbers and secures them, so
that they be brought to justice, and the owner may get his goods again, shall have the above reward, or
an equal part for any of the goods, paid by John Hay.

N.B. One of the robbers was a light made well proportioned man, with brown hair, cut short, had on a
French cocked hat, a dyed fustian olive coloured coat or frock, with outside pockets, corduroy velvet
breeches of nearly the same colour, had a plain pair of silver buttons in his sleeves, of an oval form, a
small silver broach in his bosom, cut in diamonds, is of a ruddy complexion, has a thin nose and thin lips,
and rather of a four countenance. The other of them was a tall well set man, dressed in a linen coat,
jacket and overalls, which were tied round the small of his leg, had brown hair, tied behind, of a pale
complexion, with an aquiline nose; one of his teeth before stood out further than the others, and a little
across them.

[Pennsylvania Gazette, 7 August 1782]"

[Courtesy, Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways".]

"Ran away from the subscriber, living at Oldman's Creek, West New-Jersey, on the night of the 15th
instant, an English servant lad named James Havard, about five feet, five or six inches high: Had on, and
took with him, a blue surtout coat, much worn, a blue lapelled hunting coat, bound with binding lighter
than the coat, three shirts, one white, the others check, one of which is mended with a piece of check
different from the shirt, two pair of oznabrig trowsers, one pair of shoes, much worn, and steel buckles,
a good broach in his shirt, and a pair of silver buttons in his sleeves. Whoever takes up said servant, and
secures him in any of his Majesty's gaols, or delivers him to his master, shall receive Forty Shillings
reward, and all reasonable charges paid, by
Thomas Taylor.

N. B. He is of a light complexion, wears his own short hair, and has one leg sore." p. 453.

"The Pennsylvania Chronicle", June 12-19, 1769.

Below, Wristband made for sleeve buttons.

John Collier ("Tim Bobbin") "The Human Passions Delineated", Ca 1773.

Lewis Walpole Library Digital Collection.

http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/oneitem.asp?imageId=lwlpr03688

Sleeve Buttons.

Below, John Singleton Copley, "Joseph Mann", 1754.

Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/joseph-mann-32889

Below, Joseph Wright of Derby, "Fleetwood Hesketh", 1769.

Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool.

http://www.google.com/culturalinstitute/asset-viewer/fleetwood-hesketh/OQFyaebDPR-dIA?projectId=art-
project

Buttons on the Wristbands.

Below, John Collier, (1708 - 1786) aka "Tim Bobbin", "Human Passions (Two Figures, a Lord and a
Moneylender)" 1770's.
Rochdale Arts & Heritage Service.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/human-passions-two-figures-a-lord-and-a-moneylender-89950

"RAN away from the Subscriber, living in Prince William County, on the 7th Day of June last, a likely
looking Irish Servant Man, named Michael Gramley, about 25 Years of Age, of a middle Size, and dark
Complection; had on when he went away a Fustian Coat, a Purple Coloured Jacket, and a Cotton Jacket
strip'd with yellow Silk, brownish coloured Breeches, a very remarkable strip'd Shirt, with large flat
Buttons set on the contrary Side of the Sleeves; and his Head is shaved. Whoever secures and conveys
him to me, shall have Seven Pistoles Reward, paid by

Thomas Williams."

"Virginia Gazette", July 18, 1751.

http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/ot2www-
costa?specfile=/web/data/users/costa/costa.o2w&act=surround&offset=399509&tag=Runaway+Servan
t:+Virginia+Gazette+(Hunter),+Williamsburg,+July+18,+1751.+&query=shirt+with

"Four Hundred Dollars Reward.

Run away from the subscriber, living bear the Head of Elk, in Cecil county, Maryland, a Negroe Man,
named Cato, a strong made fellow, about five feet seven or eight inches high, a native of New England,
speaks bad English, somewhat on the Dutch dialect, is an impudent, sour, down looking fellow. His
clothing is doubtful, as he took none from home, save a coarse dirty tow shirt and trowsers, an old
jacket without sleeves, and a half worn wool hat; but it is supposed he has taken with him from the
neighbourhood, a new shirt, with wrought thread buttons at the wristbands, also a red cloth jacket and
double lapelled drab coloured jacket, the body much worn, but the sleeves are nearly new cloth, the
buttons opposite the lapels on the breast are some of them pewter, some old mohair, and those
underneath are apple tree; he also took a two bushel bag, marked with the letter A. Whoever takes up
said fellow, and secures him in any goal or otherwise, so as his master may have him again, shall have
the above reward, paid by Abraham Mitchell.

"Pennsylvania Gazette", 11 October 1780]"

[Courtesy, Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways".]

Strings as a Neck Closure.

"Deserted the 20th Ult. from Capt. Smith's Company, in Col. Jacob's Regiment, one Joseph Green, about
18 years of age, 5 feet 8 inches high, had on a light brown Coat, long Trousers, a pair of silver plated
Buckels in his Shoes, the collar of his Shirt tied with 2 pieces Strings, somewhat Pock-broken. He stole a
Horse, Saddle and Bridle, when he went off. Whoever will take up said Deserter, and convey him to any
of the Officers belonging to his Regiment, or confine him in any of the Goals, shall have Fifty Dollars
Reward. Nathan Smith, Capt.

[Independent Ledger, 20 September 1779]"

[Courtesy of Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways".]

String as a Wrist or Collar Closure.

Below, John Collet, "The Hurdy Gurdy Player" 1760's - 1770's

Bonhams sale 19777, Lot 120. March 6 2012.

http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/19777/lot/120/

Collars.

Below. John Singleton Copley, "Joseph Green", 1767.

Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/joseph-green-32169

Below. Linen Shirt, England, 1700-1720. Buttons are thread worked over moulds.

Victoria and Albert Museum.

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O364847/shirt-unknown/
Small Turnover.

Collar with a small turnover worn with a stock. Shirt with a small ruffle at the bosom.

Below, John Singleton Copley, "Portrait of Gulian Verplanck", 1771.

Metropolitan Museum of Art.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:John_Singleton_Copley_-_Portrait_of_Gulian_Verplanck.jpg

Below, Francis Cotes, "Charles Collyer as a Boy, with a Cricket Bat". 1766.
Yale Center for British Art.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Francis_Cotes_-_Charles_Collyer_as_a_Boy,_with_a_Cricket_Bat_-
_Google_Art_Project.jpg

No Buttons on Collar.

"Run-away from the underscriber hereof, a certain William Foy, an Irish servant man, born in Dublin, a
weaver by trade, about 18 or 19 years of age, 5 feet, 6 or 7 inches high, wears black hair, a down look, a
light coloured jacket, a new brown shirt without buttons on the collar, a pair of half worn shoes with
square steel buckles, dark coloured stockings, a pair of long ragged trowsers, an old felt hat with white
loops and bound with ferreting; the forefinger of his left hand crooked, being formerly cut. Whoever
takes up said servant, and brings him to the subscriber hereof, shall have Three Dollars reward, and
reasonable charges, paid by Cornelius Carheart, in Bethlehem, Hunterdon county, West Jersey.

N. B. All persons are forbid to harbour said servant.

Trenton, October 4, 1769. The Members of the Medical Society of New-Jersey, are desired to take notice
that their, next general meeting is held at New Brunswick the first Tuesday in November next. Isaac
Smith, Sec." p. 535-36.

"The Pennsylvania Journal", October 19, 1769.

Nelson, William, ed.; "Documents relating to the Colonial History of the State of New Jersey" Volume
XXVI. "Extracts from American Newspapers, relating to New Jersey." Volume VII. 1768-1769. The Call
Printing and Publishing Company. Paterson, New Jersey. 1904. Google Books.
The Bosom Slit.

Below, Joseph Wright of Derby, "The Blacksmith's Shop", 1771.

Yale Center for British Art.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Joseph_Wright_of_Derby_-_The_Blacksmith's_Shop_-
_Google_Art_Project.jpg

Below, John Singleton Copley, "Portrait of Paul Revere", ca 1768–70.

Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Revere

Below, Joseph Wright of Derby, "Sir William FitzHerbert as a Boy" Ca 1770's.

Private collection.

http://www.wikiart.org/en/joseph-wright/sir-william-fitzherbert-as-a-boy

A Heart on the Bosom.

"Leacock township, Lancaster county, June 27, 1771.

THREE POUNDS Reward.

RUN away last night, from the subscriber, an Irish servant man, named THOMAS McCULLY, about 23
years of age, about 5 feet 5 inches high, of a dark complexion, black curled hair, tied, somewhat
pockmarked; had on, and took with him, a good fur hat, two striped sleeveless damascus jackets, of
white and yellow stripes, one entirely new, a fine holland shirt, with a heart wrought on the bosom,
one check ditto, a pair of check trowsers, 1 pair of new chocolate coloured knit breeches, worsted
stockings, black grained pumps, brass buckles, 2 silk handkerchiefs, &c. The said servant was bought of
one Anthony Miller, a well set likely fellow, of a fair complexion, did purpose going off for Ireland
immediately, but is strongly suspected of being concerned in assisting said servant in getting off, and it is
very likely they may be together, and divide the purchase money, as it was but a few days after the
assignment, that the servant went off. Any person that will apprehend the said servant went off. Any
person that will apprehend the said servant, and secure him, so as his master may get him again, shall
have the above reward, with reasonable charges, paid by WILLIAM SKILES."

"The Pennsylvania Gazette", July 4, 1771.

http://www.irelandoldnews.com/History/runaways2.htm

In one of the three cutting instructions for shirts in "Cloathing for Boys", there was a small surplus of
linen.

"This half overplus being a quarter of a yard in length, serves to cut out hearts for the bosoms." p. 49.

"Instructions for Cutting Out Apparel for the Poor; Principally intended for the Assistance of the
Patronesses of Sunday Schools, and other Charitable Institutions, but Useful in all Families." J. Walter[?].
London. 1789.

Shirts Made with Mixed Materials.

Use of finer materials where it showed, reducing cost. Although it may not have been common it does
appear to been practiced among the lower ranks of society.

Samuel Dewees, of his indentured service prior to the American Revolution.

"I was nearly five years old when my father bound me to one Richard Lewis, a Tory Quaker who lived in
what was then (and suppose is yet) called Poplar Neck in Berks County, Pa... My clothing was of the
coarsest cast. I recollect that when linen collars and wristbands were put upon my coarse tow-linen
shirts, I was very proud indeed." p. 38.

Hanna, John Smith; "A History of the Life and Services of Captain Samuel Dewees, a Native of
Pennsylvania, and Soldier of the Revolutionary and Last Wars." Robert Neilson, Baltimore, Maryland.
1844. Google Books.

"RUN away from Capt. Robert Dudley, of King and Queen County, on the Fourth of this Instant February,
a Servant Man, named Cornelius Maddin; he is an Irishman, of pretily [sic] low Stature, but very well sat,
of a dark Complexion, with short black Hair, but somewhat grey with Age. He carried with him two
check Shirts, one of them pieced at the Sleeves with white Linen, and both patched with white Cotton,
a Pair of old green Breeches, two old dark colour'd double-breasted Kersey Coats, a Wastecoat laced
with a Leather String, one Half thick Wastecoat, with Hooks and Eyes, instead of Buttons, a Pair of
Virginia Yarn Stockings and Shoes..."

"Virginia Gazette" February 2 to February 9, 1738 [1739].

http://www2.vcdh.virginia.edu/gos/search/relatedAd.php?adFile=rg39.xml&adId=v1739020023

"Run Away on Sunday last, the 29th of May, from the subscriber, living at Hardiston, Sussex County, East
NewJersey, a straight spare Irish indented servant man. named James Quin; about 19 or 20 years of age.
5 feet nine inches high, black straight hair, remarkable large broad black eye brows, which are joined
together; light eyes, clear complexion, somewhat pale, down look, having lived in a Dutch family has but
little of the Irish accent in his speech, and can read and write very well; he had on when he went away
an oznabrug shirt with a white linen collar, a pair of old leather breeches, with check'd trowsers over
them; a new homespun waistcoat of mixt blue and black, with a white stripe, without buttons; a redish
brown linsey wolsey homespun upper jacket somewhat worn, with pewter buttons; a pair of grey
worsted stockings, a pair of good double soaled shoes, with large round copper buckles; and a large
wool hat, two months worn; has been employed in America, only in farming business, is a civil well
behaved young man. Whoever takes up and returns said runaway, or secures him in any goal, shall
receive Five Pounds proclamation money reward, besides all reasonable charges. Benjamin Northup.

N. B. All masters of vessels and others are hereby warned not to harbour, conceal or carry him off, as
they will answer it at their peril." p. 194.

"The Pennsylvania Journal", June 16, 1768.

Nelson, William, ed.; "Documents relating to the Colonial History of the State of New Jersey" Volume
XXVI. "Extracts from American Newspapers, relating to New Jersey." Volume VII. 1768-1769. The Call
Printing and Publishing Company. Paterson, New Jersey. 1904. Google Books.

"RUN away from the Subscriber, on Sunday, the 16th of July last, two indented servants, viz.

JAMES SAMUEL GORDON, by trade a jeweller, was born in Scotland, but went to England with his
parents when a child, so that he retains nothing of the Scots dialect; he has been long in France, the
language of which country he speaks well; he said he is about 24 years old; he is a small neat man; about
5 feet 1 inch high, small lively black eyes, smooth face and fresh coloured; had on, and took, with him, a
good coat, jacket and breeches, of superfine laylock coloured cloth, besides a striped damascus jacket,
lapelled; the coat is rather large for him than otherwise, and is trimmed with 4 buttons on each pocket
flap, 4 on each hip, and 4 on each sleeve, wears a half worn castor hat, lately dressed and cocked smart,
wears his own short black hair, but sometimes a false tail, which he has now taken with him, a white
shirt, the sleeves finer than the body, a white cravat, brown thread stockings, a pair of halfworn turned
pumps, with plain Pinchbeck buckles."
"The Pennsylvania Gazette", August 3, 1769."

http://www.irelandoldnews.com/History/runaways2.htm

"RUN away from his bail, in the township of Salisbury, Lancaster County, in the province of Pennsylvania,
A man named James Douglass, between 30 and 40 years of age, of middle stature, pale complexion: Had
on when he went away, An old felt hat, worsted cap, an old brown coat, piecin several places, two blue
jackets, one of a lighter blue than the other, two check shirts, the neck and sleeves of one of the shirts
is different from the body, sheepskin breeches, flower about the button holes, sky blue stockings,
pretty good shoes, without buckles; has a wart under his left ear; and is a great snuff taker: He took a
pocket pistol with him. He came from Ireland last year, and has a receipt that he got from Mr. Knox, in
Londonderry, when he paid his passage; and supposed he will pass by it. Whoever takes up and secures
the said James Douglass, so as the subscriber may have him again, shall have Three Pounds as a reward,
paid by me WILLIAM McCANANT."

"The Pennsylvania Gazette", February 6, 1753.

http://www.irelandoldnews.com/History/runaways2.htm

"Absented himself from his Master an Indentured Servant, Named James Bayley, about 17 Years of Age,
five Feet five Inches high, flat Nose, large Mouth and Lips, short black Hair, Walks Lazy and heavy, and is
very artful in making Keys to open and pick Locks; Stole and took with him when he went away a Brick
coloured Ratteen Coat, a striped red and white Waistcoat, white Linnen Breeches, blue Yarn Stockings, a
Pair of thin Pumps, a white Cotton Shirt, with Linnen Sleeves, one Tow Shirt, and a Beaver-rit Hat.
Whoever will take up said Run-away and secure him, and give Information to the Subscriber, so that he
may have him again, shall have a handsome Reward and necessary Charges paid by John Black.

[Boston Gazette, 3 August 1774]"

[Courtesy of Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways".]

"Philadelphia county, Jan 27.

Eight Dollars Reward.

Ran Away from the subscriber, living near Shoemaker's mills, in Cheltenham township, the 14th instant,
at night, a Dutch servant Man, named George Phillip Grubber, about 19 years of age, 5 feet 8 or 9 inches
high, swarthy complection, round visage, speaks broken English, talks very quick, has a scar on the back
of one of his hands, light coloured straight hair: Had on and took away with him, a new dark cloth
coloured coattee, with brass gilt buttons, dark grey surtout, with basket buttons, three jackets without
sleeves, one a new white flannel double breasted, with cloth coloured cloth buttons, old striped linsey
ditto, with cloth buttons, single breasted, pale blue worsted ditto, with flowers in it, much worn, pewter
buttons, a dirty old patched cloth jacket, with sleeves, lined with tow linen, new blue duffil trowsers,
two new brown tow linen shirts, the collars are of white linen, one old check ditto, two pair of coarse
yarn stockings, one pair of pale blue, the other pair dark brown old shoes new soled, square steel
buckles, a red silk handkerchief, felt hat bound with black worsted binding, a small blue coat made
Dutch fashion, brass buttons on the sleeves, lined with tow linen, old pair of light blue yarn mittens, and
a short rifle with a broken lock. Whoever takes up and secures said servant, so that his master may get
him again, shall receive the above reward, and reasonable charges paid by Jacob Leech.

[Pennsylvania Ledger, 10 February 1776]"

[Courtesy of Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways."]

"Eight Dollars Reward.

Run away, the 3d of this instant March, from the subscriber, living in Sadsbury township, Chester county,
an Irish servant lad, named Andrew Rankin, about 18 years of age, about 5 feet 4 inches high, with
blackish bushy hair; had on when he went away, a new wool hat, lined with red, an old light coloured
cloth coat, with the button holes pretty much broke, an old cloth waistcoat, patched with cloth of
several other colours, a shirt, the body made of tow, the sleeves made of good hemp linen about an
eight hundred, leather breeches about half worn, with buckles at the knees, blue stockings, lately
footed with lighter coloured yarn than the legs, a pair of shoes, with strings, lately half soaled. Whoever
takes up and secures said servant, so that his master may have him again, shall receive the above
reward, and reasonable charges, paid by Samuel Martin.

[Pennsylvania Gazette, 13 March 1776]

[Courtesy of Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways."]

"Run away from the subscriber, last night, an indented servant man, named Daniel Sullivan, about 35
years of age, about 5 feet 8 inches high, black hair, considerably mixed with white; took with him a fine
half-worn hat, two pair of tow linen trowsers, one pair of blue and white ticken ditto, two tow cloth
shirts, the collar and wristbands of one of them were Russia sheeting, the other shirt all Russia linen, a
blue kersey jacket, a good deal wore, one other jacket, the fore parts black and white drugget, the back
parts all white, two pair of home made yarn stockings. Whoever takes up said servant, and brings him to
his master, shall have Forty Shillings reward, if taken in the province, if out of the province Three Pounds,
and reasonable charges, paid by Thomas Batten.

[Pennsylvania Gazette, 19 June 1776]

[Courtesy of Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways."]

"Four Dollars Reward.

Run away from the subscriber, living in Bristol township, Philadelphia county, a Dutch servant lad,
named George Silcknitter, about 14 years of age, short and thick, of a swarthy complexion, black hair;
had on a tow shirt, the sleeves and collar flax linen, striped tow trowsers, an old felt hat, no shoes; has
cut the palm of his hand a reaping. Whoever secures the said servant in any goal, so that I may have him
again, shall have the above reward, and reasonable charges, if brought home, paid by Conrad Wagner."

[Pennsylvania Gazette, 23 July 1777]

[Courtesy of Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways".]

Piecing to use smaller pieces of leftover material.

"Six Dollars Reward.

Run away from the subscriber, living in Paradise township, York county, an Irish servant man, named
Neal McGonnagle, about 5 feet 4 or 5 inches high, about 25 years of age, well set, has a bold impudent
look, stutters in his talk, especially when he is in liquor, which he is very fond of; had on, when he went
away, a brown cloth coat, lined with green shaloon, a flowered flannel jacket, has been tore up the back,
a pair of brown sulled lincey breeches, broke between the legs, blue yarn stockings, old shoes, and
copper buckles; his shirt that he has on is much too big for him, and is pieced in the back part of the
collar, and he has an old castor bat. Whoever takes up and secures the said runaway, so that his master
may get him again, shall have the above reward, and reasonable charges, if brought home, paid by
Joseph Jeffries.

N. B. He has an old indenture or discharge with him, which may serve as a pass. It is very like that he will
change his name.

[Pennsylvania Gazette, 3 May 1775]

[Courtesy of Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways."]

Repairs.

Edward Burd to Col. J. Burd.

"Philadelphia, 8th May, 1771. Dear and Honoured Sir...

I likewise begged that a few Shirts might be made for me. My Homespun Clothes were so ill dyed that
that Dye Stuff came off on my Shirts and painted them of the same Colour which occasioned so much
Rubbing by the Washerwoman to get them clean that they wore out my Shirts for me. The Risbands,
Collars &c, are quite ragged." p. 53.
Walker, Lewis Burd; "Selections from Letters written by Edward Burd. 1763-1828." Privately printed.
1899.

Israel Pemberton, a Pennsylvania Quaker interned in Virginia.

"Winchester, first Month 26th, 1778...

Thy letter was sent by R. P. I have received the saddle-bags with the things thou hast kindly sent me. I
have hitherto been supplied with tea, yet this is very acceptable, but I do not expect I shall want the
other things. In my letter which E. E. lost, which was a long one, I mentioned some other things,
particularly some linen, some of my shirts want new wrist-bands and mending near shoulder-straps, as
no linen is to be had here I think of having one cut up to mend the rest; my coat and jacket are thin
and shabby, but I intend they shall serve me..."

Israel Pemberton" p. 91.

"The Friend. A Religious and Literary Journal". Volume LXVIII. Wm. H. Pile's Sons. Philadelphia. 1895.
Google Books.

Repaired with Different Linen.

Most descriptions that mention repairs do not differentiate the material used for patches.

"Six Dollars Reward.

Run away from the subscriber, an indented Welsh servant man, named Ellis Jones, about 23 years of age,
about 5 feet 11 inches high, pretty long visage, large eyebrows, shirt black curled hair, and stoops in the
shoulders, hanging down his head when he speaks, middling long nose, and his teeth standing close
together and bending in, speaks slow, on the Welsh dialect, writes a middling good hand, but spells bad,
pretends to be a grocer by trade, and much addicted to get drunk; had on, when he went away, an old
beaver hat, the brim cut small and less one way than the other, and a felt hat a good deal wore, Russia
shirt, mended with check linen, Welsh cloth coat, mixed colour red and white, much faded, looks brown,
with a turn down small cape and hair buttons, a green cloth jacket and breeches, but not of the same
piece, brown stockings, mended on the heels with buckskin, old shoes, lately soaled, and Pinchbeck
buckles; took with him a single white linen neckcloth, and old leather breeches; he arrived last summer
from London with Captain Stephen Jones. Whoever takes up the said servant, and brings him to his
master, or secures him in any goal, so that he may get him again, shall have the above reward, paid by
Nathan Evans.

N.B. He talked of listing in the English army, and probably he may try to make his way towards Boston.

[Pennsylvania Gazette, 1 February 1775]"

[Courtesy of Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways".]

"Run from the subscriber, living in Lower Alloway's Creek township, Salem county, New-Jersey, on the
first of September inst. a servant lad, named Charles Hollingsworth, about 15 years of age, of low size,
but middling thick; had on, and took with him, a blue duffil jacket without sleeves, a tow shirt and
trowsers the shirt patched on the shoulders with brown tow cloth; had an old wool hat on, light brown
hair, pale complexion, with freckled skin; Whoever takes up and secures said servant, so that his master
may get him again, shall have Six Dollars reward, and reasonable charges, paid by William Drake.

[Pennsylvania Gazette, 18 September 1776]"

[Courtesy of Don Hagist, "1700 Runaways".]

A "French" Shirt.

French shirts were made according to a distinctly different pattern compared to English styles. This
unfortunately requires time-consuming translation in a separate article.

1783.

"Run away from the subscriber, last Thursday night, John Fulk, a lad of 16 years of age, well built, thick
set, dark complexion, full faced, and dark hair; had on, when he went away, a light coloured coat,
pewter buttons, jacket of the same, with wooden buttons, a pair of canvas trowsers, a pair of new
buckskin breeches under them, old shoes and silver buckles, with a rose in the middle, a new felt hat,
new French shirt, with broad shoulder straps, and a new silk handkerchief. He is of Dutch descent, but
speaks tolerable good English, born at Shamokin, and last summer followed shalloping in Delaware.
Whoever takes up said servant lad, and secures him in any goal, so that his master may get him again,
shall have Thirty Pounds reward, and reasonable charges, paid by the subscriber, living in Race street,
Philadelphia. John Hide.

N.B. The two fore fingers on one of his hands have the nails remarkably on one side.

[Pennsylvania Gazette, 22 January 1783]"

[Courtesy, Don Hagist's collection, "1700 Runaways".]

---

Shirt Buttons.
Order Book of Thomas Rasberry, Savannah, Georgia.

[Undated circa late July to early August 1758.]

"...12 groce horn mold thread shirt Buttons at 1 8d. per groce

6 gro wired do..." p. 7.

[Savannah Georgia June 29th. 1759]

"...6 groce shirt mold Buttons at 18d or 19d per groce

4 groce flatt do. for linnen Waistcoats about 21d. per gro

4 groce do smaller..." p. 65.

Hawes, Lilla Mills; "The Letter Book of Thomas Rasberry, 1758-1761". In "The Letter Book of Thomas
Rasberry 1758-1761". In "Collections of the Georgia Historical Society", Volume XIII. The Georgia
Historical Society. Savannah, Georgia. 1959.