BILLY REID

DEVELOPMENT SPEC
Style Name: BARNES SHAWL PULLOVER Fabric/Yarn: Vertical Quilted DATE: 24.August.15
Style #: 104.2731 Delivery: Content: Yarn Mill:
Season: HOLIDAY 15 Factory: Sourcing Partners Sample Size: M

UPDATED FOTO BACK

 BILLY REID
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
Style Name: BARNES SHAWL PULLOVER Fabric/Yarn: DATE: 1/28/2015
Style #: 104.2731 Delivery: Content: UPDATED: 2/5 HG removed sh insert
Season: HOLIDAY 15 Factory: Sourcing Partners Sample Size: MEDIUM UPDATED 3/13 RF added Sh insert

Area on Gmt Stitching CONSTRUCTION

5-Thread/ 3N
COLLAR In self , double layer. Attach w/ 5-Thread/ 3N Coverstitch, clean finish
Coverstitch

COLLAR Raw edged leather loop is sandwiched in between collar and collar facing. Loops around 1 x 28L 4-
CLOSURE hole button.

5-Thread/ 3N
ARMHOLE
Finished w/ 5-Thread/ 3N Coverstitch, clean finish
Coverstitch

SIDE INSERT
SEAMS/
5-Thread/ 3N Single layer self insert cut on the BIAS. Finished w/ 5-Thread/ 3N Coverstitch, clean finish
SHOULDER
INSERT Coverstitch
SEAMS

5-Thread/ 3N
SLEEVE CUFF In 1x1 Rib , double layer. Attach w/ 5-Thread/ 3N Coverstitch, clean finish.
Coverstitch

Rectangular shape, Cut in broken twill, applied to top of sleeve, inner edge is clean finished into
ELBOW
PATCHES
Double Needle sleeve underseam (sideseam insert seam). Turnback other 3 sides of elbow patch and apply two
rows of topstitching 1/4" apart from eachother, starting at elbow patch edge

WELT Welt pockets are in self, cut on the cross grain (vertical quilting).
POCKETS
Single Needle
Single needle edge-stitch on body around exterior edge of welt.

WELT POCKET 3 4Thread 1 pocket bag for garment ( 2 pocket bags total). Cut in jersey, bottom edge is clean finished . other
BAGS overlock edges are 4thread overlocked.

Hem as curved shape, with 3/4" turnback, finishen with blind hem.
HEM Blind hem

Half-moon is cut in cotton sheeting, and applied to interior back of garment with single needle. Top
HALF MOON Single Needle
edge is clean finished under 10mm twill tape at back neck seam.

Stitch around 4 sides. Main Label is at CB, 1/4" below twill tape at back neck seam.
LABEL Single Needle
Applied to half-moon.
 BILLY REID
DEVELOPMENT SPEC
Style Name: BARNES SHAWL PULLOVER Fabric/Yarn: HORIZONTAL QUILTED DATE: 1/28/2015
Style #: 104.2731 Delivery: Content: Yarn Mill:

Season: HOLIDAY 15 Factory: SOURCING PARTNERS Sample Size: MEDIUM

SMS-
** Please start from 104.2693, size Large COUNTER MELANGE FINAL
(Fall 15 sampling Barrett Shawl Pullover) TOLERANCE INITIAL SPEC DIFFERENCE PROTO SPEC NATURAL REQUEST
1/28/2015 DATE 2/26/2015 3/13/2015 5/23/2015 6/23/2015
FRONT BODY LENGTH FROM HPS 3/8" 28 1/4 - 1/4 28 27 28 27

BACK BODY LENGTH FROM HPS 3/8" 28 1/2 - 1/4 28 1/4 28 29 28

SIDE SEAM LENGTH FROM HPS 3/8" 26 1/4 - 1/4 26 26 26 3/4 26

ACROSS SHOULDER TO SHOULDER 1/4" 18 - 1/2 17 1/2 17 1/2 17 3/4 17 1/2

ACROSS CHEST 5' BELOW HPS 1/4" ADVISE #VALUE! 15 15 15 3/8 15

ACROSS BACK 5" BELOW HPS 1/4" ADVISE #VALUE! 15 3/4 15 3/4 15 5/8 15 3/4

CHEST 1" BELOW ARMHOLE 3/8" 22 0 22 21 1/2 22 21 1/2

BOTTOM OPENING 3/8" 22 1/4 3/8 22 5/8 21 1/2 22 21 1/2

SLEEVE LENGTH FROM CB 3/8" 34 - 3/4 33 1/4 33 1/4 33 7/8 34

ARMHOLE CURVE 1/4" ADVISE #VALUE! 12 12 12 1/2 12

BICEP 1" FROM ARMHOLE 1/4" 8 1/4 1/8 8 3/8 8 3/8 8 3/4 8 1/4

FOREARM 7" FROM SLEEVE OPENING 1/4" ADVISE #VALUE! 5 3/4 5 3/4 6 1/4 6 1/4

SLEEVE WIDTH AT CUFF JOINT FINISHED 1/4" 4 1/2 4 1/2 4 1/2 4 1/2 4 1/2

SLEEVE/CUFF OPENING 1/4" 4 0 4 4 4 4

CUFF HEIGHT 1/8" 3 0 3 3 3 3

COLLAR HEIGHT @ CB 1/4" 5 3/4 1/4 6 6 5 7/8 6

NECK SEAM TO SEAM 1/4" 10 1/4 - 1/8 10 1/8 10 1/8 10 1/8 10 1/8

FRONT NECK DROP 1/4" 5 1/2 - 1/4 5 1/4 5 1/4 5 1/4 5 1/4

BACK NECK DROP 1/4" 3/8 - 1/8 1/4 1/4 3/8 1/4

COLLAR WIDTH / OVERLAP AT CF 1/4" 4 0 4 4 4 4

HEM HEIGHT 1/8" 3/4 0 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4

SINGLE WELT POCKET WIDTH 1/8" 3/4 0 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4

SINGLE WELT POCKET HEIGHT 1/4" 6 0 6 6 6 6

WELT PLACEMENT FROM HPS 1/4" 15 1/2 0 15 1/2 15 1/2 15 3/4 15 1/2

WELT PLACEMENT FROM SIDESEAM INSERT 1/4" 1/2 0 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2

LOOP PLACEMENT (AT BOTTOM EDGE)UP FROM COLLAR CORNER 1/4" 2 3/4 0 2 3/4 2 3/4 2 7/8 2.75 1 3/4"

SHOULDER SEAM INSERT WIDTH 1/4" 2 2 2

SIDE SEAM INSERT WIDTH 1/4" 2 0 2 2 2 2

ELBOW PATCH HEIGHT 1/4" 8 0 8 8 8 8

ELBOW PATCH WIDTH AT TOP EDGE 1/4" 7 0 7 6 1/4 6 1/4 6 1/4

ELBOW PATCH WIDTH AT BOTTOM EDGE 1/4" 5 0 5 4 1/4 4 1/4 4 1/4

ELBOW PATCH PLACEMENT FROM SLV CUFF JOIN 1/4" 4 1/2 - 1/4 4 1/4 4 1/4 4 1/4 4 3/4
 BILLY REID
DEVELOPMENT SPEC
Style Name: BARNES SHAWL PULLOVER Date: 24.August.15 KETTY ADDED GRADING
Style #: 104.2731 Delivery:
Season: HOLIDAY 15 Factory: SOURCING PARTNERS

** Please start from 104.2693, size Large

(Fall 15 sampling Barrett Shawl Pullover) TOLERANCE GRADE S M L XL XXL
6/23/2015
FRONT BODY LENGTH FROM HPS 3/8" 1 26 27 28 29 30

BACK BODY LENGTH FROM HPS 3/8" 1 27 28 29 30 31

SIDE SEAM LENGTH FROM HPS 3/8" 1 25 26 27 28 29

ACROSS SHOULDER TO SHOULDER 1/4" 1 16 1/2 17 1/2 18 1/2 19 1/2 20 1/2

ACROSS CHEST 5' BELOW HPS 1/4" 1 14 15 16 17 18

ACROSS BACK 5" BELOW HPS 1/4" 1 14 3/4 15 3/4 16 3/4 17 3/4 18 3/4

CHEST 1" BELOW ARMHOLE 3/8" 1 20 1/2 21 1/2 22 1/2 23 1/2 24 1/2

BOTTOM OPENING 3/8" 1 20 1/2 21 1/2 22 1/2 23 1/2 24 1/2

SLEEVE LENGTH FROM CB 3/8" 1 33 34 35 36 37

ARMHOLE CURVE 1/4" 1/2 11 1/2 12 12 1/2 13 13 1/2

BICEP 1" FROM ARMHOLE 1/4" 1/2 7 3/4 8 1/4 8 3/4 9 1/4 9 3/4

FOREARM 7" FROM SLEEVE OPENING 1/4" 1/4 6 6 1/4 6 1/2 6 3/4 7

SLEEVE WIDTH AT CUFF JOINT FINISHED 1/4" 1/4 4 1/4 4 1/2 4 3/4 5 5 1/4

SLEEVE/CUFF OPENING 1/4" 1/4 3 3/4 4 4 1/4 4 1/2 4 3/4

CUFF HEIGHT 1/8" 0 3 3 3 3 3

COLLAR HEIGHT @ CB 1/4" 0 6 6 6 6 6

NECK SEAM TO SEAM 1/4" 1/4 9 7/8 10 1/8 10 3/8 10 5/8 10 7/8

FRONT NECK DROP 1/4" 1/4 5 5 1/4 5 1/2 5 3/4 6

BACK NECK DROP 1/4" 0 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4

COLLAR WIDTH / OVERLAP AT CF 1/4" 0 4 4 4 4 4

HEM HEIGHT 1/8" 0 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4

SINGLE WELT POCKET WIDTH 1/8" 0 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4

SINGLE WELT POCKET HEIGHT 1/4" 1/4 6 6 6 6 1/4 6 1/4

WELT PLACEMENT FROM HPS 1/4" 1 14 1/2 15 1/2 16 1/2 17 1/2 18 1/2

WELT PLACEMENT FROM SIDESEAM INSERT 1/4" 1/4 1/2 1/2 3/4 3/4 1

LOOP PLACEMENT (AT BOTTOM EDGE)UP FROM COLLAR CORNER 1/4" 0 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 3/4

SHOULDER SEAM INSERT WIDTH 1/4" 0 2 2 2 2 2

SIDE SEAM INSERT WIDTH 1/4" 0 2 2 2 2 2

ELBOW PATCH HEIGHT 1/4" 0 8 8 8 8 8

ELBOW PATCH WIDTH AT TOP EDGE 1/4" 1/4 6 6 1/4 6 1/2 6 3/4 7

ELBOW PATCH WIDTH AT BOTTOM EDGE 1/4" 1/4 4 4 1/4 4 1/2 4 3/4 5

ELBOW PATCH PLACEMENT FROM SLV CUFF JOIN 1/4" 1/4 4 3/4 4 3/4 5 5 5 1/4

HALF MOON HEIGHT 1/4" 0 3 3/4 3 3/4 3 3/4 3 3/4 3 3/4

HALF MOON WIDTH 1/4" 1/4 7 1/4 7 1/2 7 3/4 8 8 1/4

REF. GRADING 104.2642 SP15

BILLY REID
FABRIC/TRIM/COLOR PAGE
CONFIDENTIAL

STYLE: 104.2731 DATE: 1/28/2015

DIVISION: MEN'S DATE MODIFIED: 2/2 UB update fabric + interior color

8/14 UB Re-instate color: Natural

SEASON: HOLIDAY 15 DATE MODIFIED: 2/4 HG updated colorways

DESCRIPTION: BARNES SHAWL PULLOVER DATE MODIFIED: 2/4 RF - updated trim colors - removed melange

DATE MODIFIED: 2/5 AP - removed clrwy ver #4 (chocolate)

DATE MODIFIED: 6.19.2015 (KT) : Fabric , threads and labels infromation was updated

APPRVD Y/N DESCRIPTION SUPPLIER LOCATION SIZE QUANTITY VER #1 VER #2 VER #3 COMMENTS

1. BODY FABRIC
(RF) SOURCING PARTNERS TO
2. SHAWL COLLAR (QUILTING
Vertically Quilted Double face--30/1 SOURCE FABRIC BASED ON
DIRECTION FOLLOWS COLLAR
RRL INPUT GARMENT -
melange + 30/1 cotton + fill, 76% SEAM) BRICK RED MELANGE - TRUE NAVY MELANGE - NATURAL MELANGE -
SOURCING PARTNERS HORIZONTALLY QUILTED
Cotton + 24% poly, fabric Dye, panel 3. SHAWL COLLAR FACING interior: Brick Red 19-1320 TCX interior: True Navy interior: Natural
(RF) AS DISCUSSED IN EMAIL
wash, 340 gsm 4. SIDE SEAM INSERT (BIAS)
2/2 FABRIC WILL BE
5. WELTS
VERTICALLY QUILTED
6.SHOULDER PIECING(BIAS)

FABRIC # : 1X1 RIB, ~ 500 gsm FACTORY SOURCE DTM BRICK RED MELANGE DTM TRUE NAVY MELANGE DTM NATURAL MELANGE
SLEEVE CUFFS

FABRIC # : COTTON SHEETING FACTORY SOURCE HALF MOON @ BACK NECK DTM BRICK RED DTM TRUE NAVY DTM NATURAL

FABRIC # : BROKEN TWILL,

70507005/303371
40/2 X 24/2 DOBBY
Creditex ELBOW PATCHES DTM BRICK RED DTM TRUE NAVY DTM NATURAL
100% COTTON
(AS PER FALL 15 302.2405 ASHLAND 5
POCKET)

FABRIC # : Jersey FACTORY SOURCE POCKET BAGS DTM BRICK RED DTM TRUE NAVY DTM NATURAL

TRIM: HERRINGBONE TWILL TAPE FACTORY SOURCE BACK NECK SEAM 10MM DTM TRUE NAVY
DTM BRICK RED DTM NATURAL

BUTTON LOOP (SHAWL COLLAR

TRIM: LEATHER AS PER 104.2642 FACTORY SOURCE 1" X 1/4" 1 DK BROWN DK BROWN DK BROWN
CLOSURE) @ 2.75" ABOVE LOWER
LEFT CORNER OF COLLAR SEAM

TRIM: BUTTON (4-HOLE) TIGER SHAWL COLLAR CLOSURE 28L 1 HORN HORN HORN

TRIM: THREAD 1. CONSTRUCTION

TREN TEX 27 (40/2) 11 - 12 SPI DTM BODY DTM BODY DTM BODY
100% POLYESTER 2. BLIND BOTTOM HEM

TRIM: THREAD
TREN BUTTON ATTACHMENT THREAD TEX 27 DTM TO THE BUTTON DTM TO THE BUTTON DTM TO THE BUTTON
100% POLYESTER

TRIM: THREAD Ecru for side label / DTM for Ecru for side label / DTM for Ecru for side label / DTM for
TREN MAIN LABEL TEX 27 11 - 12 SPI
100% POLYESTER the body the body the body

MKTG: MAIN LABEL/SIZE/

PERU TRADER CB NECK @ 1/4" BELOW NECK SEAM 1 NATURAL NATURAL NATURAL
CODE: EF 1735AE50

MKTG: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN Inserted at the neck seam, 2" from

PERU TRADER 1 NATURAL NATURAL NATURAL
CODE: EF1736AE14 the CB (wearer's left side)

MKTG: CARE AND CONTENT

(Satin Label)
Inserted 5" above the hem at
PERU TRADER 1
EF1114SCR25 wearer's left side

MKTG: HANGTAG
PERU TRADER 1
CODE: 560 TN 50
AT THE COUNTRY OF ORIGING LABEL

PAPPER TISUE FACTORY SOURCE 1

STICKERS FACTORY SOURCE

2" X 1" At the back of the Hang Tag 2
and at the polybag

POLYBAG FACTORY SOURCE 1

 COMMENTS & REVISIONS HISTORY

BILLY REID
BARNES SHAWL
HOLIDAY 15
MEN'S

**PLEASE DATE AND INITIAL ALL COMMENTS; NOTE ANY RELEVANT ATTACHMENTS, ILLUSTRATIONS, or PACKAGES
SAMPLE IN QUESTDATE INITIALS COMMENT/REVISION VENDOR REPLY ATTACHMENTS

1 PROTO 3/13/2015 RF DECREASE FRONT LENGTH TO BE 27", AND BACK LENGTH TO BE 28"
Pt. 6

2 PROTO 3/13/2015 RF DECREASE CHEST ON FLAT BY 1/2" TO BE 21 1/2"

3 PROTO 3/13/2015 RF DECREASE BOTTOM OPENING ON FLAT TO BE 21 1/2"

DECREASE ELBOW PATCH WIDTH AT TOP EDGE TO BE 6 1/4", DECREASE PATCH WIDTH AT
4 PROTO 3/13/2015 RF BOTTOM EDGE TO BE 4 1/4"

ADD 2" INSERT AT SHOULDER. CUT INSERT ON BIAS, AS PER SS INSERT . BACK OF INSERT
5 PROTO 3/13/2015 RF SHOULD FALL 3/4" FROM HPS, WHILE FRONT OF INSERT FALLS 1 1/4" BELOW HPS

ADJUST POCKET BAG SHAPE AS PER PHOTO, CREATE ONE POCKET BAG WITH ENTRIES AT
BOTH SIDES, AND CATCH BOTTOM EDGE OF POCKET BAG INTO BOTTOM HEM TURNBACK.
6 PROTO 3/13/2015 RF TOP EDGE OF POCKET BAG SHOUL DBE CLEAN FINISHED

7 PROTO 3/13/2015 RF CORRECT AND PROCEED TO SMS

3/4" 1 1/4"

SH
SEAM
COMMENTS & REVISIONS HISTORY

BILLY REID
BARNES SHAWL
HOLIDAY 15
MEN'S

**PLEASE DATE AND INITIAL ALL COMMENTS; NOTE ANY RELEVANT ATTACHMENTS, ILLUSTRATIONS, or PACKAGES
SAMPLE IN QUESTDATE INITIALS COMMENT/REVISION BR NOTE ATTACHMENTS
SALE SAMPLE 6.9.2015 Ketty Terrel
(SP)
CUFF: In the 1st. proto the coverstitch is over sleeve, but in the sale 2
sample to improve the appeareance, the factory placed the
coverstitch straddle between sleeve and cuff. Please confirm how to
proceed for Production
KS- MAINTAIN CONSTRUCTION AS
THE SMS SAMPLE FOR BULK.

SIDE SEAM PIECING: In the 1st. proto the coverstitch is over teh
body, but in the sales sample the factory placed the coverstitch over
SIDE SEAM PIECING to keep ½” between Welt pocket placement
and Side seam insert. Please confirm how to proceed in Production.

KS- MAINTAIN CONSTRUCTION AS

THE SMS SAMPLE FOR BULK.
LOOKS MUCH CLEANER.

CARE LABEL POSITION: Take note that the care label position had
to change, because Coverstitch changed direction and this label is
inserted inside seam. Please see image below with the difference.
Please comments if this new position and side of Care label is
correct for the customer.

POCKET BAG: The factory followed the new shape for pocket bag
only in combo NATURAL MELANGE. The combos BRICK RED
MELANGE & TRUE NAVY were not worked with this correction.
They must correct in the next sample. See image for your reference.
KS- PLEASE SEE OUR NOTE
ABOUT POCKET BAG SHAPE.
ELBOW PATCH: The factory worked with the reverse face of the
fabric .Please advise how to proceed for Production.
 COMMENTS & REVISIONS HISTORY

BILLY REID
BARNES SHAWL
HOLIDAY 15
MEN'S

**PLEASE DATE AND INITIAL ALL COMMENTS; NOTE ANY RELEVANT ATTACHMENTS, ILLUSTRATIONS, or PACKAGES
SAMPLE IN QUESTION DATE INITIALS COMMENT/REVISION VENDOR REPLY ATTACHMENTS

1 SMS (104.2731) 6/23/2015 KS LOWER THE NECKLINE BUTTON AND LOOP BY 1". SEE PICTURE 1

2 SMS (104.2731) 6/23/2015 KS RAISE SLEEVE PATCH BY 1/2". SEE PICTURE 2.

UPDATE THE POCKET BAG AS PER PICTURE 3. CHANGE BOTTOM EDGE OF POCKET EDGE
3 SMS (104.2731) 6/23/2015 KS TO BE STRAIGHT. Updated 7-22-15-NO TACKING POCKET BAG TO SELF.

4 SMS (104.2731) 6/23/2015 KS INCREASE SLEEVE CAP HEIGHT BY 1/4"

5 SMS (104.2731) 6/23/2015 KS DECREASE THE SLEEVE INSEAM LENGTH BY 1/2"

6 SMS (104.2731) 6/23/2015 KS AFTER ABOVE TWO CORRECTIONS, PLEASE ENSURE SLEEVE LENGTH MEASURES 34"

7 SMS (104.2731) 6/23/2015 KS MEET SPEC OF 8 1/4" FOR BICEP

8 SMS (104.2731) 6/23/2015 KS INCREASE FOREARM TO MEET SPEC OF 6 1/4".

9 SMS (104.2731) 6/23/2015 KS COMMENTS FROM AUDIT REPORT ARE ADDRESSED IN SXS COMMENTS TAB.

CORRECT THE ABOVE. PLEASE SUBMIT A MOCKUP OF THE BODY WHICH SHOWS THE
10 SMS (104.2731) 6/23/2015 KS UPDATED POCKET CONSTRUCTION. AFTER APPROVAL OF MOCKUP, PROCEED TO BULK.

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2 PICTURE 3
 COMMENTS & REVISIONS HISTORY

BILLY REID
NES SHAWL
HOLIDAY 15
MEN'S
**PLEASE DATE AND INITIAL ALL COMMENTS; NOTE ANY RELEVANT ATTACHMENTS, ILLUSTRATIONS, or PACKAGES
SAMPLE
DATE INITIAL COMMENT/REVISION VENDOR REPLY ATTACHMENTS
SOURCING PARTNERS LIMA COMMENTS PPSAMPLE LOCAL APPROVAL

PPSample is approved for the production.

PPS 11.August.15 KT MATERIALS

1.-Quality is correct for the main fabric / 1X1 Rib / Cotton sheeting / Broken twill / Jersey. But
they used sale sample fabric in color Natural melange, instead bulk fabric

1.-Quality is correct for the Broken tw. But they used sale sample fabric in color Natural melange,
instead bulk fabric.
Elbow patch : Please take nota PPS is approved with face of the fabric.

2.-TRIM: Herringbone twill tape 10MM /Leather/Buttons / Thread / Main label -country of origin
Used in this garment is correct.

3.- TRIM: Care and Conten

Quality is correct, but the content is available.

PPS 11.August.15 KT CONTRUCTION

4.-Is according to spec.
PPS 11.August.15 KT MEASUREMENT
5.-Body Length +1/2", tolerance is 3/8"
6.-Side seam length from HPS +1/2", tolerance is 3/8"
7.-Sleeve Length from cb -1/2" , tolerance is 3/8"
8.-Loop placement : Must be 1 3/4 instead of 2 3/4" PPS is approved with 1 3/4"

Please see attached the measure audit report in the following page

PPS 11.August.15 KT SEE PHOTO PPSAMPLE LOCAL APPROVAL