Different stitch and seam used in

knitwear apparel in Bangladesh

Stitch & Seam
Stitch is a single turn or loop of thread, or yarn. Loops or loops of one or more
threads when bound with each other, either by interlacing, interloping or
intralooping or combination of those when sewing fabric and each unit of such
configuration is considered as stitch.

Seam is a line where two pieces of fabric are sewn together in a garment or
other article.
Terminology related to Stitch
 Interlacing: During stitching when one loop of one
thread passes over another loop of another tread is
called interlacing.

 Interlooping: During stitching when loop of one thread

passes through the loop of another thread is called
interloping.

 Intralooping: When a loop one thread passes through

the loop of same tread during sewing is called
intralooping.
Types Of Stitch Used In
Garments
 Class-100 (Chain Stitch)
 Class-200 (Hand Stitch)
 Class-300 (Lock Stitch)
 Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch)
 Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch)
 Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch)
Class-100 (Chain Stitch)
 One loop passing through the another loop of same thread
 It can produce easily and high speed using one needle
 Stitches are formed by intralooping.
 It is also used blind stitch purpose.

Sub-division of Class-100 (Chain Stitch)

 Stitch type 101- Single thread chain stitch is used normally when easy withdrawal of the thread is
required (e.g. basting). Application: Basting, Button Sewing, Bar Tacking, Bag Closing, Button Hole &
Decorative Stitching.
 Stitch type 103- This stitch formation is commonly known as a single thread blind hemming or felling
stitch. Application: hemming, belt loops, padding operations and felling.
 Stitch type 104- This stitch formation is widely used for attaching buttons, snap fasteners, trouser
cuff tacks, etc.
Formation of Class 100 stitch
Class-200 (Hand Stitch)
 Originally made by hand, now can be formed by machine
 This stitch is formed by special type of needle & sewing m/c.
 Needle is double pointed with Centre eyed.
 Lapel of jacket, coat and expensive clothes
 Hand stitching is used at the expensive end of garment production because the consumer expects it at
that price. In some cases, machines have been developed to stimulate hand stitching, the best
example being stitch type 209 which is used around the outer edges of tailored jackets. This is
referred to as pick stitching.
Formation of Class 200 stitch
Class-300 (Lock Stitch)
 At least two threads to form a stitch, Thread feed from Top & Bobbin.
 Needle threads are passed through the fabric & are interlaced by the bobbin threads.
 Appearance of the lock stitch is similar in both sides of the fabric; it is a special feature.
 Joining of facing, collar, pocket & other parts.

 Sub-division of Class-300 (Lock Stitch)

 Stitch Type 301 -Commonly referred to as straight lockstitch or Single Needle Lockstitch (SNLS);
 Stitch Type 304 - Is commonly used for attaching trimmings such as lace and elastic where a broad
row of stitching is needed. It is commonly used to provide a secure but stretchy stitch for the edges of
stretch bras and other corsetry.
 Stitch Type 306- Two Thread Lockstitch blind-stitch using one needle thread and one bobbin thread.
This is more secure than the traditional 103 stitch type. It finds application in hemming and seaming
lining to shell fabric. 
Class-300 (Lock Stitch)
 Stitch type 309 - Is a combination of lockstitch on the top side and zigzag stitch on the bottom side,
due to the fact that there two needle but just one bobbin supplying thread to form the stitch. Not
much in use, as the bobbin needs to be frequently changed owing to the fact that it supplies thread to
both the needles.
 Stitch Type 315 - Two thread three-Step zigzag lockstitch using one needle thread and one bobbin
thread. Typical uses: seaming, topstitching, cover-stitching, knits or woven’s where wide coverage or
greater stretch is required. Typically used in foundation garments.
 Stitch Type 316 – Commonly known as Double Needle Lockstitch (DNLS). Here the top and bottom
view of the seam is same. It has two lines of lockstitch being produced parallel to each other and
simultaneously by 2 needles, which are supplied by the under-threads from their respective bobbins.
Formation of Class 300 stitch
Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch)
 Multi-thread chain stitch requires one or more needle
 Threads are bound tighter by interlacing & interlooping.
 It looks lock stitch at the top side & double chain at the underside.
 Used for long length sewing, heavy fabric sewing such as denim, attaching lace, elastic.

 Sub-division of Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch)

 Stitch Type 401-This stitch type uses one needle thread and one looper thread. It is often used in
combination with an over-edge stitch for economy of seam joining and neatening in bulk production.
The stitch produces very strong seams with extensibility.
 Stitch Type 404 – Used for decorative purposes. It is the zigzag version of 401 stitch type.
Class-400 (Multi Thread
Stitch)
 Stitch Type 402 – Uses two needle threads and one looper thread and one blind looper. The
appearance is similar to 406, however, narrower than 406. It is used where cord effect is required or a
permanent crease, e.g. athletes shorts, tennis shoes, cricket gloves etc.
 Stitch Type 406 - This is one of the commonest of the multi-thread chain stitches constructions, used
principally in sportswear, leisure wear, and interlock garments where a high degree of strength and
extensibility is required. It is commonly referred to as “two needle bottom cover-stitch.” It involves
two needle threads which are interlooped with one looper thread. Threads with good loop forming
properties are essential for reliable continuous performance. 
 Stitch Type 407 – Uses three needle threads and one looper thread. The effect is similar to 406
except that top side has three rows of stitch. Stitch type 406 and 407 are called flat lock stitches.
Stitch type 407 is used for elastic attachment on briefs and panties.
Formation of Class 400 stitch
Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch)
 Stitches are formed by two or more group of threads.
 Formed from one or two needle threads with looper thread
 Width of the fabric may vary from 3-5 mm.
 Widely used for knit fabric, decorative purpose, side seam of shirt.

 Sub-division of Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch)

 Stitch Type 503 – Two thread Overlock (overedge Chain stitch) formed with one needle thread and only one
looper thread. 
 Stitch Type 504 – Referred to as three thread Overlock, formed from one needle thread and two looper threads.
The needle thread interloops with both the looper threads which interloop with each other at the fabric edge. It is
used for neatening edges and in knitted fabrics for joining seams.
Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch)
 Stitch Type 512 – This stitch type uses two needle and two looper threads making a total of four
threads, hence called four thread Overlock stitch. These are used on light and medium weight fabrics
such as lingerie and shirts
 Stitch Type 516 – Is the five thread true safety stitch, using two needle and three looper threads.
With one operation two rows of stitches are produced, one row of chain stitch and one row of three
thread overlock.
Formation of Class 500 stitch
Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch)
 Stitches are generally formed with three groups of threads.
 One thread is needle thread, other is the looper thread & another is the top cover threads.
 Covering chain stitches are often called flat lock or flat seam stitches.
 Mainly used for knitted apparels, 602 used for Attaching lace, elastic, and 606 used for Decorative
purpose in apparels.
Types of Seams in RMG
They are classified into following types :
 Seam class-1: Super imposed seam
 Seam class-2: Lapped seam
 Seam class-3: Bound seam
 Seam class-4: Flat seam
 Seam class-5: Decorative seam
 Seam class-6: Edge Finishing
Seam class-1: Super imposed seam
 Seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of
fabric sewing together.
 Most commonly used.
 The fabric ends are in same direction.
 The most basic superimposed seam is SSa.
 It has over 50 variations.
 This class seam can be sewn a variety of machine.
E.g: Lock stitch or overlock m/c.

 Uses: Mostly used inside seam like as shirt and

pants.
Picture of Super Imposed Seam
Seam class-2: Lapped seam
 This type of seam is achieved with two or more
pieces of fabric over lapping each other.
 Two sewn ends of the fabric are in opposite direction.
 Mostly two needle chain stitch machine is used.
 Seam under this class is very strong.

 Uses: Inside seam of jeans and dress shirts etc.

Picture of Lapped Seam

 https://youtu.be/JPpW3UAs06A
Seam class-3: Bound seam
 A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the
raw edge of another piece of fabric.
 The purpose of bound seam is to finish an edge of
garment.
 Some time used as decorative purpose.
 There are 18 variation of bound seam.

 Uses: Neckline of a t-shirt, Yoke joint in the shirt waist

band, under wire.
Picture of Bound Seam
Seam class-4: Flat seam
 Flat seam are constructed by having two
pieces of fabric meet precisely of their
edges.
 Seam thickness is comparatively less.
 Zig-zag stitch may be produced.
 Edge should be cleaned before sewing to
avoid trying.

 Uses: Intensively used in under garments in

knit wear.
Picture of Flat Seam
Seam class-5: Decorative seam

 This type of seam is made by making one or

more adjacent stitch lines in one or more layer
of fabric.
 Multi needle sewing machine is used.
 Seam under this class are produced only for
decorative purpose.
 Uses: Used in pant or other dresses.
Picture of Decorative Seam
 Seam class-6: Edge Finishing
 Seam under this class are produced in such a way so
that the fabric ends from out area can not come out
during use.
 It can be used extensively.
 It can be made by over lock machine.

 Uses: Mostly used knitted garments and Hemmings.