Automotive Servicing

NC I
UC1 Performing Periodic
Maintenance of Automotive Engine
Engine Oil

INTRODUCTION

Engine oil has a major effect on the proper operation and life of any engine. Engine oil
provides the following functions in every engine.

 Lubricates moving parts

 Helps cool engine parts
 Helps seal piston rings
 Helps to neutralize acids created by the by-products of combustion
 Reduces friction in the engine
 Helps to prevent rust and corrosion

SAE RATING

Engine oils are sold with a Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) grade number, which
indicates the viscosity range into which the oil fits. Oils tested at 212°F (100°C) have a
number with no letter following. For example, SAE 30 indicates that the oil has only been
checked at 212°F (100°C). This oil’s viscosity falls within the SAE 30 grade number range
when the oil is hot. Oils tested at 0°F (18°C) are rated with a number and the letter W,
which means winter and indicates that the viscosity was tested at 0°F, such as SAE 20W.

MULTIGRADE ENGINE OIL

An SAE 5W-30 multigrade oil meets the SAE 5W viscosity specification when cooled to
0°F (18°C), and meets the SAE 30 viscosity specification when tested at 212°F (100°C).
Most vehicle manufacturers recommend the following multiviscosity engine oils.

 SAE 5W-30
 SAE 10W-30

Oil with a high viscosity has a higher resistance to flow and is thicker than lower viscosity
oil. Thick oil is not necessarily good oil and thin oil is not necessarily bad oil. Generally, the
following items can be considered in the selection of engine oil within the recommended
viscosity range.

Thinner oil
1. Improved cold engine starting
2. Improved fuel economy
Thicker oil
1. Improved protection at higher temperatures
2. Reduced fuel economy

API RATING
The American Petroleum Institute (API), working with the engine manufacturers and oil
companies, has established an engine oil performance classification. Oils are tested and
rated in production automotive engines. The oil container is printed with the API
classification of the oil.

GASOLINE ENGINE RATINGS In gasoline engine ratings, the letter S means service, but
can also indicate spark ignition engines. The rating system is open ended so that newer,
improved ratings can be readily added as necessary (the letter I is skipped to avoid
confusion with the number one).
SA Straight mineral oil (no additives), not suitable for use in any engine
SB Nondetergent oil with additives to control wear and oil oxidation
SC Obsolete (1964)
SD Obsolete (1968)
SE Obsolete (1972)
SF Obsolete (1980) SG Obsolete (1988)
SH Obsolete (1993–1997)
SJ Obsolete (1997–2001) SL 2001–2003
SM 2004–2010
SN 2011
DIESEL ENGINE RATINGS Diesel classifications begin with the letter C, which stands
for commercial, but can also indicate compression ignition or diesel engines.
CA Obsolete
CB Obsolete
CC Obsolete
CD Minimum rating for use in a diesel engine service
CE Designed for certain turbocharged or supercharged heavy-duty diesel engine service
CF For off-road indirect injected diesel engine service
CF-2 Two-stroke diesel engine service
CF-4 High-speed four-stroke cycle diesel engine service
CG-4 Severe-duty high-speed four-stroke diesel engine service
CI-4 Severe-duty high-speed four-stroke diesel engine service
CJ-4 Required for use in all 2007 and newer diesels using ultra-low-sulfur diesel (ULSD)
fuel
Schedule of change oil
Gasoline engine

 10 thousand kilometers

Diesel engine

 5 thousand kilometer
Inspecting Engine Oil Level

The motor oil in your vehicle’s engine serves a whole slew of functions: it
lubricates the moving parts, helps act as a sealant against debris, cools the engine,
reduces wear and tear, and helps prevent engine corrosion. Keeping it clean is vital
for good engine health.

Check your engine oil weekly when the car is warm and on level ground. Stop
the engine and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle. Pull the dipstick out from
the engine and wipe any oil off from its end. Then insert the dipstick back into its
tube and push it all the way back in. The dipstick shows the oil is low and needs to
be topped off. Pull it back out, and this time look at both sides of the dipstick to
see where the oil is on the end.The oil should be between the two marks.

Here's how:

1. Find your engine dipstick and twist to pull it out.

2. Using a clean rag, wipe off the engine oil.
3. Reinsert the dipstick.
4. Pull out once more and look for the color and amount of oil.
5. And “Add” line means you should add more oil as the level is low.
6. The color should resemble honey and have no noticeable debris.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKidzEnildc&t=291s
Oil and Fluid Leak Inspection

Inspect the lower part of the engine for leaks.

Raise the vehicle and secure it on jack stands. Conduct a thorough inspection of
the lower half and underside of the engine. Using the flashlight, look closely for
any especially wet or shiny spots that could indicate the origin of the oil leak.
Engine oil is usually very black. Transmission fluid will have a reddish hue.
Brighter colors and less oily fluids will indicate coolant, washer fluid, or brake
fluid leaks. If the color of the fluid is black, this is a sign engine oil is leaking out
of your vehicle.

Below are the four most common areas of engine leakage.

1. Cylinder head cover gasket

2. Cylinder head gasket
3. Oil pan gasket
4. Crankshaft rear oil seal

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sk6QV0uAKsg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-szT9qVF4U
Replacing Engine Oil and Oil Filter
How To Change Your Oil
More than anything, the basic oil change is a great way to connect with your
vehicle and take some control over its maintenance. The time you spend under the
hood and under the car affords you an excellent opportunity to look around and see
if anything else needs attention. If the oil isn't changed, your vehicle's engine will
start to have a lot of problems. The most common issue is that the parts
in your engine will become too hot. This can cause the engine to run less efficiently,
and as time goes on, it can cause the engine components to warp and wear out.
Tools Required:
 Wrench to remove drain plug (box
end or socket)
 Oil filter wrench
 Oil drain pan
 Funnel
 Latex gloves
 Jack and jack stands or ramps
(optional, depends on ground
clearance)
Materials Required:
• Oil
• Oil filter
• Replacement drain plug washer (depending on application)
Steps/Procedure for changing your oil:
1. Check the type and amount of oil needed
2. Get together your filter, wrenches, and other supplies
3. Prepare your vehicle
4. Locate the oil filter and drain plug
5. Drain the oil
6. Tighten the drain plug
7. Change the oil filter
8. Add the new oil
9. Check the oil level
 10. Run the engine & check for oil leak

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFaVVpGjSyY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzyLUoRb-9E
Analyzing Abnornal Engine Noises

Diagnosing engine noise is often one of the most difficult tasks you can deal
with. Most of the noises that come from the engine can be described by such
words as: ticking, tapping, knocking, hissing and popping.
The type of sound doesn't in itself tell you where it came from. Many different
parts in and around the engine can produce these types of sounds. For example, a
bad:

 alternator
 power steering pump
 vacuum line
 Drive belt
 water pump
 timing chain
 internal engine component
Parts that move at high speed, like accessory pulleys, valve train components,
crankshafts, and pistons, can make it hard to pinpoint the source of a new engine
noise.

Checking engine noise

Steps/Procedure:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Pop the hood open.
3. Set the transmission to Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic).
4. Start the engine and pay close attention to the noise.
5. Gradually increase engine speed and see whether the noise increases with
engine speed.
6. If the noise doesn't increase with engine speed, it's probably not an engine
noise.
7. If the noise increases with engine speed, most likely the noise is coming
from the engine, though if you have an automatic transmission it might come
from the torque converter.
Now that you've determined that the noise is coming from the engine, you need to
eliminate the belt(s), pulleys and accessories as the source.
If you know the noise isn't coming from the belt or one of the accessories, you can
skip this test and go on to the next section.

Most worn-out or loose belts produce a squealing sound. If this is the type of noise
you hear.
Inspecting Air Cleaner Elements

Car maintenance: Engine air filter

Think of your air filter as your car’s lungs. If it’s clogged up with dust, it will be
letting dirty air into your engine, reducing its performance. Some air filters are
easy to reach and change yourself while others are less accessible, in which case
you might get the local auto shop to do it for you. Your owner’s manual will tell you
how often it needs changing.
Generally, the more stop-start driving you do and the dustier the roads you drive
on, the more often it’ll need a change.

Checking Your Air FilterTo inspect the air filter, open the air filter housing
(which is held shut with clips or fasteners), remove the filter and hold it up to a
bright light. If the filter is very dark and transmits little light, it is dirty and
needs to be replaced.

An example of a dirty air filter that needs to be replaced.

You might extend the life of an air filter a bit by tapping
the filter against a hard surface to knock dust loose, or by
vacuuming the side that stops the incoming dust. This will
knock loose some of the surface dirt, but it cannot remove
the dirt that is embedded in the fibers in the filter media.
Do NOT attempt to wash a dry paper filter element as this
may damage the filter.
Replacing Air Filter

Air Filter Replacement

The paper air cleaner element should be replaced at specified intervals. Between
replacement periods, it may be cleaned by directing a stream of compressed air
through the element in a direction opposite to regular air flow.

You need a new air filter for your car every 12 months or 12,000 miles or 20,000
kilometers, whichever comes first. You can pay a mechanic and give up your car
for a day, or you can replace your air filter at home in about ten minutes.

Steps/Procedure:
1. First, find your filter under the hood of your car. It’s in a black
rectangular box with metal clips on the side. Check your owner’s manual if
you don’t see it as soon as you pop the hood.

2. Open up the casing, and check out how the air filter fits inside it. Make a
note of which way the filter faces.

3. Remove the old air filter, and insert the new one exactly how the old one
sat.

4. Remember to close the metal clips when you’re done. That’s it. For extra
savings in the long run, you can extend the life of your new air filter by
hitting it with some compressed air to clear out any debris.
Answer the following:

1. Common areas of engine oil leakage.

Causes of oil leakage
2. Explain the procedure in conducting engine change oil.