Cutting 1897

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Ladies Garments
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.
Chap.X- Copyright No
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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

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Superlative System
.OF.,
(utting [odies' Garments

.BASED UPON.,
A SCIENTIFIC, SURE AND SIMPLE METHOD

GIVING THE CORRECT PROPORTIONS FOR EACH TYPE OF FORM OF
EVERY SIZE, WITH VARIATIONS FOR ALL KINDS OF
DISPROPORTIONATE SHAPES AND FORMS
BYl
CHAS. J. STONE
CHICAGO, ILL.
ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES OF FINELY ENGRAVED DIAGRAMS, WITH FULL

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS
STYLES OF LADIES' GARMENTS
PUBLISHED BY
THE CHAS. J. STONECO. CUTTING SCHOOL
CHICAGO
1^
Copyrighted 1897 by Chas. J. Stone C'o ^^
^GO\C
INDEX,
PAGE. PAGE.
Preface, 6 The Melon Sleeve, 59
Introduction, - -
. ;
and 8 S. B. Box Overcoat, by Short Measure 60-61
Proportion Table, 9 Coaching Coat, by Proportions, 62 63
Proportionate Division, 10-13 Capes, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69
Proportion in Practice, 14-15 Bicycle Coat, by Proportions, 70-71
Dress Bodice, by Shoulder Measures, 16-17 Cycling Knickers, 72-73
Dress Bodice, by Short Measure, 18-19 Divided Riding Skirt, 74-75
Basque, by Shoulder Measures, 20-21 Bicycle Skirt, 76
D. B. Frock, 22-23 Divided Bicycle Skirt, 77
Fancy Waist, by Proportions, 24-25 Bicycle Cap, 77
Jacket and Vest, by Proportions, 26-27 Leggins, 78
D. B. Vest, by Proportions, 28-29 Riding Breeches, 7.8-79
Cutaway Frock, by Shoulder Measures, 30-31 Riding Jacket, 80-81
D. B. Cutaway Jacket, by Proportions, 32-33 Riding Skirt, - 82-83
Long Basque and Vest, by Shoulder Measures, 34-35 Riding Skirt, - 84-85, 86-87
Principles of Sleeve Cutting, 36, 37. 38, 39 Variations, 88-89, 90-91
The Foundation Skirt, 40-41 General Information, 92-93
Skirts, 42, 43. 44, 45 Our Cutting School, 94
D. B. Jacket, 46-47 Price List of Patterns, Ladies', -

95
The Balloon Sleeve, 48-49 Works on Cutting, 96
D. B. Jacket, by Shoulder Measure, 50-51 Terms for Instructions, 97
The Leg of Mutton Sleeve, 52-53 Price List of Block Patterns, Gentlemen's, 98
The New Bishop Sleeve, 54-55 Cutters' and Tailors' Supplies, 99
D. B. Coat, by Proportions, 56-57
(V,
PREFACE,
jCTT is a fact which observing tailors will doubtless have noticed, that ladies'
J^ tailoring has of late years grown more and more important to the trade.
This fact is emphasized by the realization of cutters and tailors that there
is marked inability on the part of many to meet the demand for the making of
ladies' garments in the best manner. Many tailors and hundreds of cutters have
experienced this difificulty —a difficulty arising from the absence of any adequate
system of ladies' garment cutting as well as making.
It is to be regretted that works of this nature are lacking. It is true that
there are many works treating of this subject; but are they adequate to the
exacting demands of to-day? Are they founded on true and invariable princi-
ples, which cutters can implicitly rely upon in their daily work in all its range and
sweep? I think not. Even the very best existing works on the cutting of ladies'
garments, which assume to have for basis a fundamental principle, are soon
found to be lacking in one respect or another. In point of fact, too many of
these are based on an inadequate if not a wrong system, the best of them upon a
system only half perceived and now and again abandoned in its application.
I believe that my "Superlative Method of Cutting Ladies' Garments" is a
work which not only makes up for the defects found in others, but in its origi-
nality, exactness and simplicity fills a want long felt by cutters. Like my other
works on cutting it is based on proportions, using for variations both shoulder
measure and short measure methods, and makes an invaluable companion work
to my "Superlative System of Cutting Men's Garments." It is, I believe, the
most comprehensive work extant, covering all points in cutting ladies' garments.
THE AUTHOR.
(VI.)
INTRODUCTION.
§ERHAPS in nr other branch of tailoring can a system based on the pro-

portions of the body be so well applied as in the making of ladies' gar-
ments. Perfect fit and grace is the desideratum; for awkwardness is
quite inexcusable in a woman, and it is the tailor's object to overcome all
defects of form and the many difficulties found in making her garments.
There is no more beautiful garment than a gown gracefully draped over
the form of a woman, and there is no better method of arriving at this end,
so far as the tailor is concerned, than the employment of a system based on

proportions. Women are more exacting and particular in respect to their
clothing than men. They demand not so much utility as beauty. They demand
perfection in their dress in every pose, every condition, without constraint of
limb or muscle, which would detract from grace; in a word, they demand per-
fect ease, free, unincumbered, which is only obtainable with well fitting and
well made garments.
The attainment of all this is rather difficult for the cutter and tailor, but it
is greatly simplified by the employment of the system explained in the pages of
this volume. It allows for all possible variation, originality and skill in the
cutting and making of all parts of ladies' garments, allowing adherence to pre-
vailing styles, to individual wishes, and that certain unity in a tailor made suit
which is demanded and only artistically attained by the system of proportions.

The art of constructing garments according to the variable forms and styles
of costumes is an attainment that can not be reached without deep study and
actual experience. The basis of the system is determinate, but the style and
fashion is always fluctuating, and the cutter must learn the principles embodied
in the system so that he can bring them into a practical application in his every
day practice in cutting garments according to the current fashion.
The fundamental principle upon which this system is based is the propor-
tionate division of the female form, and the study of these proportions will give
the cutter a most comprehensive understanding of the foundation that he is to
build on. The proportionate figures are those that are neither stooped nor
over-erect and when all the different lengths correspond with height, and when
all the different widths correspond with the breast circumference, the figure may
be tall and sliro or short and stout and still be in proportion.
(VII.)
vin. INTRODUCTION.
There will be found in this work two kinds of proportionate drafts, to which
I wish to call the cutter's attention. The proportionate draft on page 17 is drafted
by the strap and shoulder measures. By the comparison of the two measures
as follows we find that the strap length is strictly proportionate; the upper
shoulder 23^^, half of this 11^, one inch makes 10 J^, which corres-
is is less it
ponds to the strap measure taken, and by drawing the line from M to C the
proper length of strap at point N is obtained.
On page 20-21 will be found another draft similar to the draft on page 17,
the only difference being in the depth of scye. At first glance it would seem
that the two drafts had been produced by two different methods, but on closer
observation it will be found that they are both the same in principle, although
a different method has been used in obtaining the same result. The only difference
is that the shoulder seam on the draft on page 21 is higher at point 17 than the
shoulder seam on draft on page 17 at point X. By studying the draft on pages
14 and 15 the different methods of obtaining the depth of scye is seen at a
glance. The distance from A to B is It height, and from B to C 14^ breast, plus
}^ inch, or if the upper shoulder measure is used to obtain depth of scye, A to C

is yi upper shoulder and }^ inch, and C to B ':( breast plus }< inch. The
distance from A to B is in this case regulated by the shoulder measure.
The diagrams on pages 17, 19, 21, 29, 31, ^^, 47, 51 and 71 are all laid out
for a normal strap, and the closing shoulder line is drawn from point M to C,
thus locating shoulder point M below top line of draft as shown on diagram on
page 17.
On pages 15, 25, 57 and 81, the front shoulder point comes up to top line
of draft as explained in diagram of proportions on page 15, where the shoulder
line is drawn from T to Z, thus making the front length of strap fully yi inch
longer than in the other method. It is found that the majority of ladies are on
tlie average }4 inch erect and for the average form it is well to use the method
as laid out in the illustration on [)ages 14 and 15 when cutting by proportions,
but when shoulder measure and strap measure is used for variations then I use
the system as laid out in illustrations on pages 17 and 21, and make changes
according to measures as explained in variations on pages 88 to 91.
The short measure method is fully explained on pages 18-19 ^^^ 60-61.
The table of proportions is not of the ideal form, but of the average. The
circumference measurements are taken from the breast, and the length from the
height, as follows: If the breast is 34, all circumference measurements are found
opposite that breast measure, and if the height is 5 feet 6 inches all the lengths
are found opposite that height scale.

PROPORTIONATE SCALE OF AVERAGE MEASUREMENTS.
HEIGHT
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OV CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
PROPORTIONS.
nv Chas. J. Stone.
THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT. tailor or dressmaker find them, " lacced tight in a
The theory advanced by our most noted sculptors, corset."' The following method is used in dividing
painters, artists and professors of anthrojjology, the height on the 64th unit theory, measure taken
regarding the height of the human body and its from top of head to bottom of heel:
proper division, is that the entire height, from the THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT.
crown of the head end of the big toe contains
to the
From top of head to top of neck, as from A to B
eight faces or heads, and on this theory they divide
is ys or g«i.
the human form into eight faces or heads. The
distance from the bottom of the heel to the end of
Note. — It will be noticed that the face on diagram
is a trifle longer than this division.
the toe is estimated to be 2*2 of the entire height.
From top of neck to top of shoulder, as from B to
They also claim that the proper way measure for
to
C is A'.
height is to have the subject in a lying-down position
From top of shoulder to bottom of scye, as from C
with feet stretched out, or if in a standing position it
to D, is 6%, which only holds good for the bone struc-
must be on tip-toe. This theory is undoubtedly
ture.
correct if
face, but to tailors

we want to find the correct length of the
and dressmakers this is of less
Note. —
This distance must be regulated by the
diameter of the scye, according to flesh develop-
importance. What we want is the division of the
ments, as the distance from N to P is width not
parts of the body that we are required to cover, and
height. (See explanation of wid/hs.)
it matters not if the face of our client is one-sixteenth
B to E is waist length and is ]^ of height.
of an inch longer or shorter, and while the distance
E to F is }i of height.
from the crown of the head to bottom of heel does
A to F is J^ of the entire length of the body.
not contain eight times the length of the face, yet I
D to F is _^ of the height and regulates length of arm.
find in my practice that this distance can be cor-
In fleshy forms the length of sleeve will decrease,
rectlj' divided into eight parts and each of these parts
and in lean forms increase a trifle, according to in-
subdivided into eighths, giving us 64 parts or units
crease or decrease of flesh under the arm at P.
for height.
F to G is 2 units or parts.
The division of the female form nearly the same
is
G to H is 4 units or parts.
as that of the male, with the following exceptions:
H to J is 2 units or parts.
Her shoulders are narrower, her waist smaller and I to J, "the knee," is yi.
hips larger, and her arms and legs are shorter than
J to K, "lower part of calf," is ^.
the male. I consider the average height of the
K to L, "ankle," is 4 parts.
female to be 5 feet 4 inches or 64 inches, so if the
L to M, "bottom of heel," is 4 parts.
height of 64 inches is divided into 64 parts or units
The length of leg will be 2 units or parts less than yi
each unit will be one inch. The accomj)anying of entire height.
diagram is that of a female figure, such as the ladies'
Alpha Paramount Cut 'A" 105.
Copyrighted 1897 by Chas. J. Stone.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
d^ ^ ^ ^ dt
PROPORTIONS.
BY Chas. J. Stone.
fourth of breast, 4>4 inches, added to bust

THE DIVISION OF WIDTH.
measure, 36.
The width is divided into sixteen equal parts. The entire width across the breast, as from C to 8,
Note these divisions of widths are made from the net ^ breast measure, is divided into eighths, and the
breast measure taken snug above the bust "mam- width of back from C to 3 is 3^. C to 5 is Si. The
millae." Of these parts I give six for the front, six width of back at top of neck is ys.
for the back and two for each side or arm, four for The width of shoulders at top are reduced ^ the
the waist and eight for the hip, the largest part being distance between lines and 3 as per dotted line, so
2
across the pelvis. while the widtli of back from C to 3 is s/g of breast,
The average breast measure of the female form is the width of shoulders is reduced j'j at line B K.
34 inches, and the bust over the mammilla 36 inches. The entire width of body is divided into six-
The proportionate waist will be 10 inches less than teenths of the breast, or eighths on division, and the
breast, or two-thirds of the bust measure. extra bust whatever it may measure is added to the
The hips will measure 40^4 inches, which is one- front as from 8 to 9.
.^ ^ e^ ^ e^ e^
Alpha Paramount Cut "A" 106.
Co)iyris;liled I8SI" liy C'luis. ,1. Stone
14 SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
PROPORTIONS IN PRACTICE.
Fashionable Jacket, by Proportionate Method, Draw a line from T through Z to 12. This line will
from the following measurements: locate top of front shoulder, also lower shoulder
Height, 5 feet 4 inches. Bust, 36 inches. point of back at W.
Breast, 34 inches. Waist, 24 inches. A to X is )^ breast. Draw a line from X through
TO DRAFT.
point W down to 21, add from X to 13, J^ inch,
and shape as represented, the top of back com-
Square lines A B D and ATS. ing i4 inch below point A.
A to B is 3^ inches, being #j of height plus ^ inch.
B to C is j.^ breast plus J^ inch.
It will be seen that the distance from K to is the W
same as K to 21, and the distance from 27 to Y
A to D is 16^ inches, being ^ of height plus ^ is the same as 27 to 21.
inch.
Square down from F to 15, and advance from 15 to
Square lines B C and D.
16 one inch. Then draw a line from 16 to F
C to E is i^ breast, and to F is J^ full bust.
and a line from S to F.
Divide breast into eight equal parts and mark off as
5 to 19 is }4 breast, and 19 to 20 is J^ inch.
per black dots.
F to 18 and 16 to 17 is 2 inches.
C to H is i^, H to I is >^, I to J is >^, J to K is }i,
Shape front as represented.
K to L is )4-
D to 23 IS I inch, and D to 24 is 6 inches.
Square up lines J and L.
D to 1 is I ^ inches.
Points J V and UL will then form the diameter of
scye, but as the scye in a lady's garment is cut
1 to 2 is ^ inch.
2 to 3 is 2i^ inches.
somewhat wider than in a gentleman's, I ad-
3 to 4 is 1 inch.
vance from L one half inch and recede
to 10
from J to 1 one half inch.
1 The arm-scye will
4 to 5 is 2^
inches, thus making the back and side
body and under-arm piece }( of waist measure.
then be nearly a circle, as indicated by dotted
line 27 2 I.
14 to 6 is I ^ inches.
6 to 7 is 2 i^ (same as side and under-arm piecesV
Point G is half way between E and F.
Square up from G to R.
The dotted lines on back and side body indicate the
Divide distance between G
and 10 into three equal
pleats.
parts and locate points O and P, and square up
Finish draft as represented and add seams all over
points O and P.
when cutting the cloth.
Z is halfway between B and V.
«o** -^.g. cross

i6 SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
THE DRESS BODICE.
Strap,
f2)
i8 SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
DRESS BODICE.
HY ACTUAL MEASURES.
The diagram on opposite page is produced by the

following measures:
Strap, 12
BASQUE.
)1V SHOUI.DKR MEASURES.
From the following measurements:
Upper shoulder,
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK.

The body of a double breasted frock is drafted the sweep line X S, and mark off bottom of sidebody
same as an ordinary waist with the exception that the as at 2-3, then place under arm piece in same
waist seams comes from i j to 2 inches below the manner and mark off at 3-4.
waist line in the back as from and the same A to D, Then place forepart so that point B will lay on point
in front as from B to N; in the side it is only about T and mark off as at 5-6, 7 and 4, so whatever
one inch below regular waist line as from C to H. the body comes below waist line we cut off of
The lapel is cut as per dotted outline and is about skirt below sweep line X S T.
i^ inches wide at waist line and 2^ inches at cen- U V is 5 inches below X S.
ter of bust. The skirt is cut on the same principle W to 15 is one inch.
as the regular dress skirt in the following manner: Shape spring of back skirt from 2 through U to 15.
Draw a straight line from O to T. The full length of coat is from 37 to 39 inches.
O to P is I'j waist and T to S is the same. Make length of skirt from 2 to 15, the same as back
P to S is I J waist. skirt from D to Z.
P to Q is yi waist. T to Y is the same as X to W.
Form square P QR S, which is '3 waist measure. Sweep from W to Y by P for length.
Q to X is the same as O to P. For a close it open over the hips as
fitting skirt split
Draw a line from P through X to VV. at and 11, fold skirt over at botton as indi-
10
Sweep from X to S T, using point P as pivot. cated by dotted lines 10, 11, 12 and 13.
X to I is E to D; make a mark at i,
width of back, 5 to 8 is I J^ inches and Y to 9 is 2}4 inches.
and place sidebotly so that waist line will lay on
•w*SSSSiJ^^^S3^^(of }SS*es««<-
l9_ I
FANCY WAIST.
BY PROPORTIONS.
The waist on opposite page is produced from the Square up from J to F.
following measurements: Square up from H to O.
Length of waist, i6 Breast, 33 Waist, 23 A to V is '6 breast.
Bust, 35
D to I is ^ inches.
I
1 to 2 is ^ inch.
TO DRAFT. 2 to 3 is 2}^ inches.
Commence by squaring lines ABC and AON. 3 to 4 is I inch.
A to B is ^ inch. 4 to 5 is 214^ inches.
B to C is X breast and 3^/^ inches. T to X is i}( inches.
B to D is full length of waist. ' i^ of an inch is taken out between back and side
Square lines C and D. body and X.
C to E is ^ breast. K is half way between J and H.
C to F is ^ bust. W is half way between K and X.
Square down from F to Q. R to 6 is 2 inches.
Q to R is I inch. 6 to 7 is I J^ inches.
F to G is yi bust. 7 to 8 is 1 inch.
Square up from G to M. 8 to 9 is 2 inches.
Shape front line from M through P and F to R. 9 to 10 is 2 3/4 inches.
M to N is i^ breast. Shape as represented.
M to P is 2 inches. The cloth is represented by shaded portion, the back
S is half way between B and C. side body and under arm piece is in one and
Draw a line from S to N. shaped so as to fit the lining. The shaded por-
C to H is yi inch less than -3 of breast. tion on front represents the cloth. The front
I is half way between C and H. of waist is finished with fancy silk. Waist at neck
I to J is yi inch. is finished with an ordinary standing collar.
(3)
1
JACKET AND VEST.
On the diagram of a jacket and

opposite page is Draw a line from 13 to 3.
vest. The diagram
produced by proportions from
is 13 to 14 is ys breast.
the following measurements: Shape front from 13 tiirough 8 and 28.
Length of 14 to 34 is '4 breast.

waist, isH Bust, 36
Full length, 21 Waist,
I to 17 is ^ breast, plus '2 inch.
Breast, 16 to 29 is I }/2 inches.

34^2
15 to 30 is the same.
TO DRAFT.
5 to 18 is J4 inch.
Commence by squaring lines i, 3, 5, and i, 17, 18 to 19 is I }^ inches.
to 2 is inch. 19 to 20
'/2 is
J4 inch.
1
2 to 3 is 3 inches. 20 to 21 is 2yi inches.

and ij
3 to 4 is )^ of breast inch. 21 to 22 is T inch.
2 to 5 is waist length, i^^, and to 6 full length, 21. 22 to 23 is 2}i inches.
Square lines 4 and 5. 23 to 24 is 2^ inches.
4 to 10 is }4 inch less than 2^3 breast. 24 to 25 is 3 inches.
1 is halfway between 4 and 10. 25 to 26 is 2^ inches.
9 is halfway between 10 and 11. 26 to 28 is 3 '4^ inches.
4 to 7 is half of breast. In shaping the front dart add 'j inch at 31 over
4 to 8 is half of bust. tlie largest part of bust and hollow the shoulder a
Square up and down from 8. trifle between 30 and 38.
Square up from 10 and 11. The collar for the jacket is indicated by dotted
27 to 28 is I inch. lines which any cutter will readily understand.
Draw a line from 8 to 28. The darts on the vest are indicated by dotted
12 to 13 is ^ bust. lines.
12 13 ^
^ e^ e^ e^ ^
DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST.
On opposite page we give a normal draft of a C to E is ::; of bust measure.

double-breasted ladies' vest. The measures are: E to K is '6 bust on divisions.
Breast, Waist, 26
Square up lines H G and K.
37
Bust, Length of waist, 16
Square down lines F and E.
39
T to 6 is I inch.
Note. —This pattern is drafted without seams ; in
Shape front from L through E and 6.
cutting the goods add for seams and sew in chalk line.
L to M is '8 breast on divisions.
TO DRAFT. A to N is ^
breast plus y^ inch on divisions.
Scjuare lines A D and A L. P to 10 is yi inch.
A to B is 3)4 inches. R to 7 is I inch.
B to C is yi breast.
8 to 9 is I '4 inches, making the width of back part
D is length of waist. at waist yl of the entire waist measure.
Square lines B C and D. R to I is I )^ inches.
C to F is )4 of breast on division. The darts are each i^ inches making the forepart
F to G is bust on divisions. at waist y^ of the entire waist measure.
14
F to H is yi bust on divisions.
?i3» t^ ^^ i^ t^ t^
CUTAWAY FROCK.
Length of Waist,
^w
DOUBLE-BREASTED CUTAWAY JACKET.
t6>-X
(4)
BASQUE AND VEST.

The draft is produced by the following shoidder 6 to 7 is 2].-, inches, making the back and two sitie
measures: bodies 5 ^ inches or ^ of entire waist measure.
Upper shoulder, 22 J^ Front length, 19^ Breast, 32

From 7 to X is 10^ inches or 5 inches more than ^4
Lower shoulder, 2i]4 Natural waist, 16^ waist measure.

Bust, 34
Side length, 8J^ Full length, 36 Waist, 22 Suppress 2^ inches from
7 to 8, and 2 inches from j/4'
Hip, 9 to 10, from g to m center of dart

draw a line
39
and take out %i inch on each side of m.
Vest opening, lo. Full length, 21}^.
Shape front as represented, making the lapel 3 inches
TO DRAFT. wide at the lower end and 2]/^ inches at the
Square lines A. F and A O. notch, and the collar 2 inches,
A to B is )4 upper shoulder. g to w is 3 inches; make entire width of back part
B to C is J^ breast.
at bottom 5 inches.
B to D is y'z inch.
From W on back to spring of first sidebody is i]/:
A to E is "/ inch. inches.

E to F is waist and to (; full length. Apply hip measure 5j^ inches below waist line and
Square lines C, D and F. shape as represented.
D to H is y^ breast. VEST.
D to J is 1^ bust.
The vest is cut same as the basque, the dotted lines
J to K is '6 bust.
representing the vest.
Square up from K to O.
to a is 2 '4 inches.
Square down from J to W. I
W to X is I inch.
a to c is I inch.
Draw line from O to J and from through X for

c to d is 33^ inches, making the distance from i to
J
front center line. a and c to d '4 of waist measure.
D to M is ^2 lower shoulder, less y'^ inch.

X to h is I
J{;
inches,
N is half way between D and M. h to e is I inch,
L is half way between D and H. e to s is lyi inches,

to y is •^ inches,
A Q
to is y% breast plus '/ inch.
s 1
U to R is inch. y to k is 2 14' inches, making the distance from X to

]/2
Draw line from C to O.

h, e to s and y to k V^ waist measure.
P Shape front of vest y^ inch outside of center line and

<) to is J^ breast.
finish as represented.
S to T is the same as U to R.
P to V is J-4 breast. The basque is cut with a large lapel turned back
From waist line to lower end of roll is 4 inches; re- so as to give it an even roll all the way down in front.
duce the front of coat 1 inch from lower end of The lapels are stiffened with hair cloth and there are
the lapel all the way down. three large buttons on each lapel. There is a hook
F to I is -;8 inch. on forepart on the inside under the lower button,
1 to 2 is I inch. and an eyelet in the vest holding the fronts of the
2 to 3 is }4 inch. basque together. The vest is cut with a regular col-
3 to 4 is 2 inches. lar same as on a gentleman's vest.
4 to 6 is I '- inches.
1 6
THE PRINCIPLE OF SLEEVE CUTTING.

Make width of sleeve from 13 to 14, }4 inch less than
measure, and add from 14 to elbow i inch for
the upper sleeve. The top sleeve from 12 to 17
is^ inch more than half of the width at hand,
and the upper sleeve is ^ inch smaller.
3 to 15 and 12 to 16 is 14^ inch added to the upper sleeve
and like amount is taken off the under sleeve.
THE NEW WRINKLE AND HOW TO PRODUCE IT.
From 14 to double circle below 18 is 3}^ inches.

Split under sleeve from 19 to 18, and swing out top
part of sleeve whatever amount of fullness is
wanted and draw a line from 3 to 21.
23 is half way between 3 and 21.

Draw a line from 19 to 20.
Square up from 23 to 24, and sweep from 21 to 22
as shown in diagram.
Tlie fullness on top sleeve is to be shirred in.
Add seams when cutting the cloth.
THE CLOSE FITTING SLEEVE.
Square lines A D and A H.

A to B is i's breast, and to 2 is 3^ breast.
2 to C is 5'8 inch.
Square lines A B
and C.
2 to 3 is whatever upper part of armscye measures.
2 to 4 is whatever lower part of armscye measures.
Draw line from 2 to 3.
Sleeves are all cut from a regular close fitting
sleeve pattern (see diagram of the regular sleeve draft,

with illustration of how to produce the puff at top.)
The regular sleeve is produced from the measure of
the armscye, which is as follows :
Length of sleeve tii tibiiw, 8 Width at elbow, 9%

Full length of sleeve, i6 Width at hand.
Scye, 1
TO DRAFT.
Commence by squaring out and down.
From I to 2 is I'j scye.
From I to 3 is ^
scye and }( inch.
3 to lo is elbow,and to ii full length of sleeve.
Square across from points 2, 3 and 10.
10 to 13 is I }i inches.
3 to 4 on diagonal line is Ui scye, and yi inch.
5 is half way between 3 and 4.

Square up and down from 5.
Draw a line from 3 to 6, and shape top sleeve as

shown in diagram.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 37
5 is half way between 2 and 3. Point L is 3/| of an inch up and inch back of
Square up and down from 5. point F.
C to D is length of sleeve, i6}4 inches. I to J is I inch.
E is half way between C and 12. Shape under part of sleeve as represented
E to I is 15^ inches.
D to 12 is \y2 inches.
12 to 15 and 2 to 14 is i inch.
Square down from 3 to F.
Make width at hand and elbow according to measure,
and shape as shown in diagram.
THE LEG O' MUTTON SLEEVE.
In the leg o' mutton sleeve the under part remains
the same as in a close-fitting sleeve; and the upper
part is very easily changed from the close-fitting to
the very large by making the following sweeps:
Sweep from 2 to 8 and 9 by 1.
Sweep from 3 to 10 by F.
From 2 to 8 is 2j/^ inches, or whatever fullness is
desired in the upper sleeve.

Sweep from 8 to i ( by 7, and from 11 to 10 by 6.
8 to 9 is \]^ inches.
Draw line from 10 to hand.
ONE SEAM LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE.

Fold paper lengthways and square lines .ABC and
to G.
Square across at A.
A to B is ji{ sleeve length.
A to C is ^ of sleeve length.
C to D is 4 inches or whatever width is desired.
B to E is 5 inches.
.\pply length of sleeve from D through E out to F.
Make a point at F.
A to G is tS inches.
Draw from F to G.
a line
H is way between F and G.
half
Square across at H.
H to K is ^ sleeve length.
Sweep from F to G using K as pivot.
G to M is }4 inch or enough to make an even round-
ing of sleeve head.
Si^SSs*-
ONE SEAM SLEEVE.
A great number of cutters are cracking their brains go up same amount from 6 to 8; line 17, 8, is
about drafting the various styles and kinds of ladies' parallel with line i, 2, 3.
sleeves, never for a moment thinking that it can be Sweep from 7 through 19 to 12 to 13, using 8 as
done otherwise. We will say right here that the only pivot; then go back from 8 to 9, i)4 inches and
ladies' sleeve that can be produced by drafting is a sweep from 14 through 20 to 12. Add from 13
close fitting sleeve, and from this all other sleeves to 18 enough so as to make an even round on
are cut, and the accompanying sleeve is produced in the top of sleeve.
the following manner: Line 19 is the upper sleeve.
Draw a straight line i, 2, 3 and iS. Take an Line 20 is the under sleeve.
ordinary close fitting sleeve and cut it across the When sleeve is finished, points 3 and 4 will come down
elbow at points 10 and 11, pivot at these points shown in
to point 2, giving the extra overlap as
and overlap at 15 and 16 until a straight outside accompanying illustration of thesleeve finished.
seam is obtained, then cut sleeve across at 6; The Y>\n checked portion of the diagram represents
swing sleeve around until it gets on a right angle the close fitting sleeve The black and shaded
as illustrated in the diagram. Measure distance portion represents the fold-over.
from 5 to 7, which in this case is 914 inches; Note. — Add seams in cutting tlie cloth.
^ ^ ^ ^ ^
THE FOUNDATION SKIRT.
In cutting skirts it is not necessary to make a draft from H through Q G, R to J, using point C as
for every size and style, for it is much simpler and pivot.
easier to use a foundation skirt, and from that make If the side of skirt is, say i inch longer than front,
the needed changes. The accompanying diagram lower sweep from point C to double circled
will be found a most simple and correct method in point below C i inch.
skirt cutting. Measure width bottom as from H to J, in
of skirt at
TO DRAFT. this draft 2^^ yards, and draw a line from J to
Waist 24 ; Hip 42 ; Length 40. C. The distance from L to I will then be for
First form a square as .\ P anti A N. fulness in the back and is gathered or pleated in.
A to C is i's waist. H to Q is 12 inches.
C to D and C to F is ^3 waist. Q to G is 27 inches.
Make a sweep from D to and I to 13, using point C G to R is 27 inchesand R to J is 27 inclies.
as pivot. Draw lines from C to Q, G and R.
13 to P is 5 inches. Make a sweep as per dotted 2 to I is 1 inch. Shape front gore from to K. i If
line. a closer fitting skirt is wanted, reduce gores as

F to L is the same as D to 13. from 5 to 6 and 7 to 8.
Draw a line from C through L M to R. The width of the gores must be regulated by the
13 to I, will then measure ^ waist and P to M }^ of width of the materials used, and there it no certain
hip measure. number of gores required. They may be 5, 6 or 7
.\pply length of skirt from 13 to H and make a sweep for the present style of skirt.
^ e^ e^ e^ e^
Q 5
FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLE OF SKIRT CUTTING.
(5)
ANOTHER FOUNDATION SKIRT.
Front length, 41 I Side length

Back length, 41 | Waist,
TO DRAFT.
Draw a straight line A B C.
Square out from A.
A to B is 4 inches.
A to C is front length 41. N is inch back of D.
I
Square out B and C. C to O

is the distance from C to J.
' ,;
B to G is half of hip measure. Cut through from O to N.

Divide B to G into four parts as follows: L to 9 is I J^ inches, shape side gore from 9 to K.
B to D is ^ hip.
THE li.^CK GORES.
D to E is }(.
E to F is ^ and F to G )^ on division. In this skirt there are three back gores, each one
C to H is half of hip and H to J the same. 28 inches wide at the bottom and 5 inches wide at
C to K is I inch. the top.
Fold paper on dotted line so that front lays ABC By reducing side gores i J-^ inches at from L to 9,
on line J K L; point .\ will in this manner locate there will be three inches of space or i inch for each
point L, and C will locate point J. In this case the back gore, which is cut five times as wide at the top
front, side and back lengths are all the same, so by and gathered in making up.
simply folding the paper and cutting it off even at How back gores; Take a piece of paper
to cut the
top and bottom, the correct length is gained; but in 5 inches wide at the top and 28 at the bottom, fold
case the side and back length be longer or shorter lengthwise four times and cut across top and bottom
than the front the difference must be added or taken and the correct angle is gained.
off at the top, at waist and not at the bottom of the —
Note. The number of gores shall be regulated
skirt. according to the width of the goods as follows: First,
Apply waist measure from A to L and find out how cut the skirt pattern independent of any seams then
much be taken out of the darts and take out yj:
is to measure width of goods and divide the gores accord-
the amount between 5 and 6 and 73 the amount over ingly. Add seam when cutting the cloth.
the hips between 7 and 8.
SKIRT.
The measures are: Têt short arm of square rest at A and long arm at H,
Waist, 25 Full side length, 40^ and square across to get point J.
Hip, 40 Length in front, 40 A to R is }( waist.
Side length to hip, 6 Length in back, 40 '/J S to T is one inch.
Apply side length measure from R to H and M.
TO DRAFr. Square across from to W. M
Draw line from A to C. M to W is the same as C to M.
A to B is 5 inch less than measure taken.
inches, or i Draw line from W
through N F to K.
Square out lines B and C. Place short arm of square at J and long arm at F
B to G is half of hip measure. and square back from J for point K.
D E F is ^8 of hip measure or J/( on division. K to N is back length measures.
C to V is ^
of entire hip measure. Square out from N.
From E to H and V to M is one inch. N to O is 14 hip measure.
Draw line from M through H to J. K to P is 3^ the distance from N to O.
FOUR GORED DRESS SKIRT.
The diagram on opposite page of a dress waist measure then fold paper over so that point L
skirt is cut with four gores and is five yards at the and E on points M and (T, thus wherever
will fall
bottom. The following measures are used in drafting: point E will fall on the sweep at point Q will be the
length at bottom and wherever point L will fold on
Waist, 25 Side length, 40^^
Hip, 40 Back length, 40^^
point M will be the top.
Front length, 40 Width at bottom, 5 yards THE BACK GORE.
TO DRAFT. Draw a straight line from O to P.
ABC P to Q is 2 2)-^ inches.

Draw lines and st|uare across at C.
C to A is 40 inches, front length.

O to M is 5 inches. Fold paper over so that point
A B P will fall on point Q and point O will fall on

to is 5 inches, being js of entire length.
point N.
A to H is J4^ waist.
The side and back length of skirt being jj inch
Sweep up from H to I.
more than front length, raise the skirt at waist line
B to F is 10 inches or 1^' of hip measure.
this amount as per dotted line from I K L M N O
Sweep up from F to G. ;
it will be noted that if the front line C B A and side

C to D is '8 width at bottom, 22'/ inches.
Sweep from D to E by C.
line E G is we could then
extended up to point R
ABC on sweep from A to L by R and from C
for waist line,
Fold pattern over so that line will lay
to E by R for run of bottom of skirt. The same
points E and G and where line C strikes on
in side piece. If line E J and line Q M would
sweep E will be side length at bottom and
extend up to S we could then sweep from L to M for
wherever point A lays on L will be the side
top of waist, and from E to Q for bottom of skirt,
length at top.
using S as pivot. The same method may be used
Apply measure from A to J and whatever it ismore
for back gore.
than '4' of the waist take out Y^ extra amount
As the front and back gores are cut on the fold the
between L and K and the remainder in the
goods on both the side and back gore will run on the
front darts.
bias from M to Q, therefore it is well to shorten the
. THE SIDE GORE. skirt a trifle at point Q as it will stretch down in
Draw a straight line from E through L to S, making. The opening of the skirt is made on the
measure out width at bottom, 45 inches from E to Q left side at M N and fastens inside with a French fly
and make a sweep. Make width from L to M yl as indicated by dotted lines.
«^ ^ e^ ft^ e^
*»*5iJS*Sf 5$«s*Si$ee«*
DOUBLE BREASTED LONG JACKET.
By Proportions. Height, 5 Feet 4 Inches.
From the following measurements; D to I is i"^ inches.

Length of waist, 16 Breast, 34 1 to 2 is ^ inch.
Full length, 32 Bust, 35 2 to 3 is 2^ inches.
Square lines A B D and A R Q. 3 to 4 is I inch.
A to B is '/^ breast and 4 inches always. 4 to 5 is 2 J4 inches.
B to C is half the distance from A to B. B to H is J^ breast on division.
A to J is 'yh inch. Draw a line from H to I.
D waist length, to E length. I to 6 is 2i/( inches.

J to is full
Square lines D, C and B. L to V is

J^ inch.
A to K is ^ breast, plus }/> inch. U is half way between V and H.
B to F is 7 J breast. I to Z is 4 inches.
B to G is y'i breast and '4^ inch. Draw lines for spring as shown in diagram.
B to N is yi bust.
From J through i for width of back.
Square up and down from N. From V through 2 and from K through 3 for back
O to P is I inch. and side body.
Q to R is
J-6
breast. From H through 4 and from U through 5 for second
Draw a line from R to N and from N througli P. side body.
Draw a line from R to C. From F through Z for forepart.
R to S is '8 breast. N to 7 and P to 8 is 4^/ inches.
R to X is }{ breast. Sweep from E to 9 by S for front length and shape

X to Y is I inch. as represented. Add seams when cutting the
E to W is 3 inches. goods.
oais ee ee
«^ 5^ «^ i^ e^
THE BALLOON SLEEVE.
SIX IMECES.
Take an ordinary close fitting sleeve and lay it Draw a line from A through E up to P.
together at hand and elbow as illustrated in diagram. Locate points 6, 7, 8, 9 and draw a line from i
Draw a line from A B K. through 6 to (J.
A is elbow. From 2 through 7 to R.
Draw a line from H to G. From 3 through 8 to O.

Draw a line from I through A to J.
From 4 through 9 to N.
F to G is ij4 inches. S is 2^ inches above N.
Sweep from C to E by A. T is ^ of an inch forward from S.
Point E is located by getting center from G D. Shape as represented.

Pivot by E and sweep G D Y. Sweep from W
to X by R, and from U to Y by S.
Divide parts as shown on diagram i, 2, 3 and 4. There should be no fullness on the top of the sleeve,
Y to P is 4 inches. but from X to G and B to D the sleeve is to be
Make sweep N O P QR using E for pivot. gathered in.
e^ e^ 9^ t^ ^ t^
(6)
6
5° SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
DOUBLE BREASTED JACKET.
Waist, 1
LADIES' D B JACKET.
t^ t^ «^» %^ t^
THE LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE.
Take an ordinary close-fitting sleeve pattern and to make sleeve-top an even run. Fill in from 4 to 5
place it in position as shown in diagram, laying the as shown in diagram. Point 6 is on an even line
outside seams together with the elbow down to the with points B D. Points 4-4 go together and points
hand, then draw a straight line from hand through 6 and 7 go together with three pleats on upper sleeve
elbow. between 5 and 6.

Sweep from B to C by A. There are 7 to 8 pleats laid between points 6 and
D is half way between B and C. G, and 6 to 7 pleats between points i and G, letting
Sweep from E through 6 and FF, using point D for the pleats run down each way from G. The cuff is
pivot. left open on the outside to correspond with the col-
I same distance as D to E.
to 2 is the lar. Width at hand is usually 9 inches.
Use point 2 as pivot and sweep from i through G G. Note. — .\11 ladies' garments are cut without seams.
Where the two sweeps meet at 3F fill in enough so as
t^ t^' ^^^ *^* *i^

-•^dSSi^^di^l
THE NEW BISHOP SLEEVE.
Take an ordinary close fitting sleeve pattern, cut Square up line from R Z Y.
to
half and half as by dotted lines, reduce
illustrated R to Z is the same as KL on under-sleeve, and Z
to
the under sleeve as shown by solid lines as follows: to Y is 3 inches and this amount is to be pleated
A to C is 14 inch, and B to D is inch; add same i to the under sleeve.
amount to top sleeve from B to E i inch, and A H to F is the same distance as G to C on under-
to F i^ inch, and M to K is 2i<( inches; add sleeve, and F to J is 3 inches; this extra length
same amount from M
to N 2^ inches, and O to is to be pleated on to under-sleeve.
Q i}^ inches; split upper sleeve through center Draw a straight line across from J to Y.
from hand to elbow as from P to K, and cut X is half way between J and Y.
across at elbow as from to M. W Sweep from Y to J by X.
K to S is 8 inches, or three times the distance from Hollow out inch at 3, and
j!'2 3/j^ inch at 4, and add
W to K and S to V. ^2 inch at J.
Take piece cut out of upper-sleeve and place it over This way of cutting the Bishop sleeve
will produce
so that K P lays on points R T, and draw a line a very close from elbow down, and an overflowing
fit
across from R to W
and V, coming down 2^ wide sleeve above the elbow; the fullness may be
inches in center below N. either pleated or shirred in.
The extra goods between W and V is pleated in and The sleeve is finished with a vent, with blind or
a strap ^ inch wide is stitched on over the real button-holes and buttons all the way up to the
seam. elbow, as from P to K.
o^^SS-SS&f*
6
DOUBLE BREASTED COAT.
On opposite page is the diagram of a double- Square down from H to V.

breasted coat. The back is cut on the fold of the E to I is I inch.
goods and the two back and side seams on each side 1 to 2 is 3^ inch.
from the top down are finished with box plaits; the 2 to 3 is 2 '/( inches.
collar is a high Queen Anne and the sleeves the 3 to 4 is [ inch.
melon style, the pockets are placed in the front gore 4 to 5 is 2 '4 inches.
seam as shown In diagram. On next page we present N to O is I inch.
a cut of the coat as it appears finished. Draw line from J through O to 15.
The draft is produced from proportions by the Shape front from J to up W to P.
following measures: Q to W is I4 breast.
Waist, 1 Breast, 34
Make width of back from G to 9, yj^ inches.
To large part of hip, 24 Bust, 36 F to X is I inch.
Full length, 56 Waist, = 4

Draw a line from 2 through X to 10.
Hip, 40 10 to II is 15 inches.
Draw line from 4 to 12 parallel with line to 10.
10 DR.^FT.
1 2 to 13 is 15 inches.
Commence by squaring lines .\ E and .\ M. Y to 6 is 2 '4' inches.
A to B is y^ inch. 6 to 7 is 3 incl-.es.
B to C is 34^ breast. 7 to 8 is I 3/(^ inches.
C to D is 3X2 inches. Make width of lapel from 15 to 16 half the distance
B to E waist length to F, prominent part of hip and
there is from 13 to 15.
to G full length of coat.
Make width of lapel at waist length at 17 half the
Square lines D E F.
width of forepart from 8 to o.
D to I is >4 breast. Lapel at top from 18 to 19 is 2% inches.
D to J is >4 bust.
Square up and down from J. THE COLLAR.
M to P is yi bust.
P to Q is ^ breast. Place corner of square at P, letting short arm rest
A to R is ^8 breast, plus >^ inch. on W.
D to L is Yi breast.
Square down from P to U.
D to K is y'l bieast. Square up and down from LI.
Square up from L and K. U to V is 1 inch.
Draw line from C to (^. Add ^ of an inch spring in back at T.
D to H is 54 breast on division. Shape as represented.
CVOC) -^S.
':°J^?^|^S$iSi*
(7)
1
THE MELON SLEEVE.
Length of sleeve to elbow, 8 Width of sleeve at tlliow, 1 Draw a line from C through A to B.
Full length, i6 Width at hand, 9 A to B is i ^ inches.
Take an ordinary close fitting sleeve, cut or tear D is half way between B and C.
pattern off about 2)^ inches above the elbows as Sweep from B through 2, 3, 4 and 5 to C, for top of
shown by the shaded pattern on diagram. sleeve.
6o SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
SINGLE BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT.
This garment is finished the same as a genlleman's

box overcoat. It is silk lined throughout, silk faced
to the front edge and has a soft roll, the seams are
strapped and the edges double stitched }< to 3/; inch
wide; there are outside, side and ticket pockets with
flaps to go in or out, the sleeves are made medium
size, leg of mutton, finishedband with a small
at the
vent 1)4 inches long. The whole garment presents a

very stylish appearance. The draft is produced from
the following short measures:
Strap,
COACHING COAT.
The front is cut with a separate piece 8}4 inches wide Draw a straight line up and down from F to L and F to
set in. The back is finished with a strap 3^4 inches G. G to H is width at hartd. D to K is 18 inches.
wide. The seams and edges may be double stitched or L is half way between E and K.
strapped 3/^ inch wide. There are two outside pockets Square a line from L to M.
with flaps to go in and out. There are also two outside Sweep from E through P, N, to K, using point as a M
pockets on the breast in the front piece as indicated by pivot. C to Q is 5 inches. Draw line from Q to K.
dotted lines. The sleeves are close fitting from the This extra amount from C to Q is added for a double
elbow down. The top part of sleeve is finished with a box pleat to be laid on the top of upper sleeve.
double box pleat and the top of sleeve heads are fin- P to O is 1 3/^ inches. Lay line Q K on the fold of the
ished witli double box pleats. The draft is produced by goods when cutting the cloth. Shape as repre-
proportions from breast and bust measures as follows: sented, and add seams in cutting the cloth.
To waist,
dt dt dt dt ^ dt
HALF CIRCLE CAPE.
The half circle cape is cut in the following manner. Make distance from T to S the same as distance
(See Diagram A). from I to 2.
Square up and down from A. H to 3 is one inch, draw a line from L through 3 for
A to B is 4 inches and A to U is y^ breast.

front.
B to C is ^ inch. V to 7 is ^ inch and VV to 8 the same.
C to V is length of waist and to X full length. Apply length desired from C to X and sweep from X
Square lines B A U and V. to Y using point R as pivot. Add enough at
A to D is ys, D to E is >^ and E to F points X and Y to make it an even run at
is }a breast.
F G bottom.
to is }i breast.
Square out from G through K THE FULL CIRCLE CAPE
J to 3.
K K H Is cut in the following manner. (See Diagram B).
G to is %, to J is '4, J to I is >^ and I to is
y^ breast. Square up and down from A. This line represents

Square up and down from H. the center of cape.
A to L and H to L is the same as A to G. Square across at A.
M is yi inch below C. Sweep from M to N by L. A to B is '6 A to C is it neck and A to D is J4^

neck,
Draw a line from L to G. neck. Apply length from C to E F G or I or
B to O is ya breast. whatever length desired, and make a sweep using
Sweep from O to Q by G, locating points T R S, and point B for pivot and lengthen front and back
where sweeps cross at Q is the front shoulder so as to get an even run.
point. C is the back, B the side and D the front of neck.
Draw a line from O to G and from Q to G. The collar on either of these capes may be a
Sweep from F to K by G, locating points i and 2. standing, turn down or a high standing collar.
e^ e^ ^ e^ e^
(8)
CAPE.
The diagram of three-quarter circle cape on B to H is >^ bust.

opposite page consists of one large and one Square down from H and draw dotted line from A
small cape. The larger cape is cut with a to H.
V in the shoulder; it has regular pocket with Place corner of square at A with short arm resting on
flaps to go out and in, same as a man's over- H, and square line from A through F J P and V.
coat. The front is finished with a fly and but- A to E is ^ breast on division.
tons up to the neck with five buttons on the front. A to F is ^ breast, on division.
An armhole in the shape of an opening of 8 inches A G is
to J^ breast, on division.
in each side of the cape is made so that the lady can G to K is Vi inch.
pass her arms through and get into the pockets. Apply length of cape from E to S and D, and sweep
The collar is 2 inches standing and 2]/^ inches turn from D to M by A foi^ front length.
down and closes in front with two hooks and eyes. Add from P Q to V R breast and shape as shown ]/(,
The small or top cape is made plain. It has a 2)^ in diagram.

inch standing collar made with a fly, with button H to O and M to N is 2 inehes for lap in front.
holes and buttons on to the larger cape. The draft The large cape is cut with a V in the shoulder and
is produced by the proportions of the breast and
the following simple method is used in obtaining it:
bust measures, as follows;
F to J is y'i breast.
Breast measure, 34 inches, taken snug. Split pattern through from A F j and P V and pivot
Bust measure, 36 inches, taken easy. at J, letting points P V lay over to Q R, letting it
Full length of cape, 34 inches. overlap so that point 8 on back will be 2 inches
Full length of small cape, 22 inches. from shoulder point F, and paste or pin pattern
Neck, over dress collar, 17 inches. together from J to P and V R. Q
On the small or top cape there is no V taken out in
TO DRAFT.
the shoulders.
Draw straight line A B. .The collar is very easily understood, as it is simply a
Square cross line ECHO. straight piece of cloth shaped a trifle in making,
B to A is J^ breast, on division. so that the top edge will be a trifle shorter when
B to C is i/S bust. finished. K to 2 and i to 3 is the stand, 2
Place corner of square at A, letting short arm rest at inches high; 2 to 4 and 3 to 5 is the turn down,
C, and square A C and .\ S D. 2 yi inches.
COMBINATION CAPE METHOD.
On opposite page will be found a combination THE PRUSSIAN COLLAR.

method of drafting capes. From this method may
The collar is drafted by drawing a line from i to 2.
be drafted the i/^ circle military cape or the regular
Square down from i to 3.
shoulder cape with a seam in the center of shoulder.
1 to 3 is 2 inches.
The accompanying draft is for a normal figure.
Shape from 2 to 3 as illustrated in diagram.
TO DRAFT. 2 to 5 is I
J^ inches for stand.
Draw a straight line from A down to R. 5 to 6 is 3 inches.
Make a point at A. I to 4 is 2 inches.
A to B is J^ breast. Lay corner of square at 3, letting arm rest on point

A to C is i^ breast. 4 and square down from 3 to 7 for front of
Square back from C to D. collar.
C to D is >^ breast.
VARIATIONS.
Lay corner of square at point A, letting short arm
rest at point D and draw back center line from For a lady with a long neck add from C to M
A to E. whatever extra height in neck is desired, square back
A to F is }i breast. from N to J and lay corner of square at point A,
A to G is ^ breast. draw back center line from A to K as indicated by
F to S is i/^ breast. dotted line.
Square up from S to T. For a short neck figure go up from C to L what-

Square lines from G through P to O, and from B ever extra amount neck is shorter than proportion.
through P to N. Sfluare out to point H and draw back center line
Draw line from A through point P to "leopard spot." from A to I as indicated by dot and dash line. For
Apply length desired from F to E. stooped or erect figures slide point A up or down on
Sweep from E through N* O to R using point T as back center line according to whatever stoop or
pivot. erect is wanted.
C to U is 2^ inches.
For a down from A to 2,
inch stooped form go
J/2
Square down from U to V. half an inch, and for a j'2 inch erect form go back
Draw line from A through W to U.
from A to 3, half inch, then change the neck gorge
Add from W to X and U to Y, 2 inches, or whatever
to conform to the new center point, /. e., for a
desired for lap in front.
is
stooped figure 2 to F should be and 2 ^
to B _^
The full size of the draft will make a three-fourths
breast, and in an erect figure 3 to F is }'i and 3 to B
circle cape,and by splitting it through on the shoulder The cape is usually made fly-front and has a
M^.
from T to P and plaiting N over to O as per dotted Prussian collar.
line 8, 9, P O, we have a 3^ circle with a V taken out
in the shoulder. By cutting pattern as illustrated by —
Note. This method of cutting capes will hold
the shaded portions the regular cape is obtained. good for both ladies and gentlemen.
*«*««$€' I'^^lâ S:^$»

x\\
7° SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
BICYCLE SUIT.
THE COAT. Y to Z 2 inches, making the distance

inches and
Square lines A N and A B D. from D to V J4^ of waist measure.
A to C is 3}4 inches. Apply measure from V to U and find out how much
C to B is ^ breast and Y-z inch. more it measures than ){ waist and divide the
A to a is ^ inch. difference into three parts and take out y'l each
a to D is waist length, to F full length desired. between i and 2, 3 and 4, and 5 to 6. Let
D to E is ^ of the waist length. spring of sidebody run through point E. Side-
Square lines B C D E. body and underarm piece overlap i}4 inches
B to J is y'l breast. from 7 to 8 and i y^ inches overlap from 9 to
B to K is ^3 breast. 10 and y-2 inch is taken out between 11 and 12.
B to G is
J^ breast. U to I is 1^ inches.
B to H is >4 bust. Draw line from C to N.
I is half way between G and H. N to O is i^ breast.
I to M is ]i bust. A to Q is y% breast plus VX inch.

B to L is half breast on division. O to P is ^4; bust.
Square up J K M and square down from L to V and O to S is the same as Q to R.
H to T. R to 14 is 1)4 inches.
T to U is I inch. 14 to 15 is Yi inch.
The waist suppression is regulated as follows; D to
Shape as represented in diagram.
W is I >,{. inches and W to X y, inch; X to Y 3

CYCLING KNICKERS.
The cycling knickers on opposite page is produced THE HACK PART.

from the following measures:
F to M is '6 of seat.
10 to P is '6 of seat.
Rise, lo I
Waist, 24 Band at knee, 14
Outside length 23 '4 Seat,
I
G to T is ' of seat.
to knee, 40
O is half way between 10 and P.
Note. — The rise is taken from the hip to seat of B to S is 2 inches.
chair. Lady sitting. X to Y is 3/| inch.

W to Z is
J4^
inch.
TO DRAFT. Apply waist measure from N to O deducting darts
and from Q to R making it î waist and 4 inches.
Square lines A O N and A B C.
Take out 2 darts each i -'4 inches at 6 to 7 and 8 to 9.
A to B is rise, lo; .'\ to C is outside length to
A two-inch band put all round the waist with open-
knee, 23 'j-
ings in the side 5 '_• inches down from O to 11.
C to D is 4 inches and D to E is 4 inches.
This opening is made with a fly and has two small
Scjuare lines B C D E.
buttons.
B to F ^2 seat on division.
Pockets may also be placed in the fly.
F to G Is of seat measure on division.
A hook and eye is band at the side.
placeil at the waist
Square up from F to N and down from G to L.
The back part is cut straight across at the bottom
H is halfways between B and G.
and has no darts taken out.
I is half way between C and J.
The bottom is gathered in and sewed on to the band
Draw a line tlirough center I H 10.
one inch and a half wide.
N to O is y^ of waist measure and 2 inches.
An opening is made in the side about 4 inches up, as
Take out i inch darts at 4 and 5 as shown in dia- from W to 12. This opening is also made with
gram. a fly and has one small button.
L to V is 2^ inches.
When on E and L will come up to
the lady points
E to W is 2j4 inches.
line and C
button close around the leg just
J
J to U is ^ inch.
below the knee allowing the extra length to
C to X is 1}^ inches.
overlap; the full length will then be as to line
Shape forepart as shown in diagram taking out three D K. The distance from C to D may be
darts at the bottom at i, 2 and 3.
according style or fancy, but find in my
to I
Lengthen forepart at 2 -'4 inch. practice that 4 inches is just about right.
«^ t^ f^ ^^ i^
(9)
DIVIDED RIDING SKIRT.
The divided skirt on opposite page is produced in

the following manner from the following measures:
Outside length, 40)/^
[llAl.kAM A.
BICYCLE SKIRT.
The diagram represents the full circle divided into Start at center — to F is '3 of waist measure; line H
eight equal parts. The parts that are shaded pin is to prominent part of hip; letters F, F, is
checked represent the skirt, the plain parts with front; S, S, sides; B, B, back. The pleats may
dotted lines represent the pleats, and the diagonal be cut in a separate piece of cloth. The reverse
portion is cut out of the circle. double box pleat is laid in front and both sides.
The back is a triple fold box pleat.
TO PRODUCE THE DRAFT. The bottom of skirt is finished with a mohair braid,
Draw a straight line as from i to 2, square crossways laid on flat.
as from 7 to 8; then take half the distance from The skirts may be made with or without lining, but
I to 7, 7 to 2, 2 to 8, and draw across

8 to I, should have an extra lining from the waist down
lines 3 to 4, and 5 to 6. This may be done by to the hips, and the pleats fasten down to the
taking a square piece of paper and folding it lining at the hip. The opening may be made in
four times. the back or in the sides. Add seams.
BICYCLE SUIT.
DIVIDED SKIRT. Draw a line from D through 6 to it.
D to 7 is iS seat.
R to 9 and H to 10 is j^ seat.
Shape as represented.
3 to 4 and to 6 are sewed together.
1 1
Lines 8 9 go in with the pleat in the back and lines
I 2 go into the pleat in front.
Finish as represented. Add seams.

THE CAP.
To more fully illustrate the method of cutting the

cap all six pieces are shown, but when once under-
stood only one piece is required in drafting. The
DIAGRAM B.
Diagram B represents a divided skirt and is drafted

on the same principles as the bicycle skirt.
Square lines A, C, F and A, D, E.
B is halfway between C and D.
Draw a line from A through B.
A to B is y'i waist measure.
B to G is length of skirt, 34 inches.
Sweep from C to D by A and from I through G to H
by A.
Add for pleats as shown in diagram. first point to consider is the size of the cap; say it is
The crossed lines represent the parts that makes size 7 (21 inches), 7 inches being the diameter of cap
the divided skirt. wanted we take half of seven 354 inches, and make
C to I and I to 2 is 2)4 inches. a circle using point B as a pivot then divide the circle
F to 4 is ^ of seat measure.
I
by }i making each piece ^}i inches the total of
Draw a line from C through 4 to 3. which is 21 inches or size 7. Now it is not neces-
3 is 2 inches above J. sary to go to all this trouble in drafting a cap as the
7 to 8 and 10 to 9 is 2}^ inches. same principle may be applied in cutting the pattern
E to 5 is i"? seat. out of one piece.

5 to 6 is Vs seat. Draw line ABC.
BICYCLE SUIT.
THE CAP. (continued.)
Draw line A B.
Square across EA E.
A to J is 2 '4 inches or any height required.
A to B is the length, 16 inches.
B )4 of the size or % of circumference of cap.

A to D is 4 inches.
J to is
B to C is 4 inches.
Sweep from each way to D D.
A to E is ^
J
each way making each piece from E to
Square lines and D. ABC
Line H is half way between L and G.
E i-^, or if only 4 pieces y:^ and if a 5-piece cap
is and so on.
wantefl
C to K is ^4 inch.
J
Square up from E to i and E to 6.

lines
A to E is ^ of leg measure.
Square across from i to 6 and draw lines from i to

D to F is
J4 of calf measure.
B and 6 to B thus forming a triangle i 6 B.

K to G is ^ of ankle measure.
This triangle will only come in a six piece cap.

K to L is ^ of instep measure.
In shaping the crown add 3/^ of an inch round at 7

L to M is )^ of width at bottom.
Shape as shown in diagram.
7 so as to make
crown stand out, and if a snug
the
The buttons are placed in the center of the leggin
cap is wanted reduce or round off a trifle at D D.
THE VISOR.
and edge. N O is % inch from outer end of
button-holes. A is added one-inch button stand
Visor from F to F and F is half way of the cap.
from the center on the under part.
Width of the visor from F to G or H is way
from I }4 to 7 inches, according to style
all the
and fancy.
—
Note. Add seams when cutting the cloth as no
seam is allowed in pattern.
Draw a line BAG.
B to F is I'j of circumference of head or the size of
RIDING BREECHES.
cap 7. Sweep F F F by B.
To enable the cutter to produce a close fitting pair
THE LEGGINS.
of riding breeches it becomes necessary for him or
her to have a close measure, and no lady will object
to be measured in the proper manner, the same as
we would measure a man for the same kind of gar-
ment. However, the following rule may be used to
advantage: If the outside length is 42 the inside will
be 31 and the rise 11. Take the outside length,
divide it by 4, and take }( plus ^4 inch for the rise.
The remainder, ^ less yi inch, will be the leg.
The knee is two inches above one-half of inside

length; the ankle is two and one-half inches above
full length of leg. The accompanying diagram is
produced from the following measures:
Outside,
6
RIDING BREECHES. (CONTINUED.) To top is finished with a regular waist band. The
opening may be made in the sides, or quite
Square up from F to T.
made with a regular
often they are fly front.
F to G is ^ seat. Seams are included in this draft.
F to I is jî seat.
Draw a line from I to G.
(^
S is half way between I and G. u 71 ,'8^
S to Y is ^ inch.
Draw a line from I to J and K.
J to
H is
K
half
is I inch.
way between B and G.
E to N is the same as B to H.
'firT^
Draw center line from N through M, H to L and U.
Apply one-fourth knee measure from M to R and M
Q. to
.\pply one-fourth of ankle measure from N to O and
N to P, and apply the calf measure in like manner
at i6.
T to I is inch.
1 to 2 is 2^2 inches.
2 to 3 is y^ inch.
3 to 4 is 2 J^ inches.
4 to 5 is J^ inch.
5 to 6 is 2j^ inches.
Shape forepart as represented.
THE BACKPART.
E.xtend lines at waist, seat, knee and bottom.

G to X is t'j seat.
L to U is 3 inches.
Draw a line from I to U.
K to W is 2j^ inches.
R to II is ^ inch.
Q to 12 is yi inch.
1 is 4 inches below knee.
N to 17 and N to 18 is i inch.
17 to 13 and iS to 14 one-fourth ankle measure
is
and j4 inch. Apply the measure over the calf

at 16.
Add a button stand as indicated by broken line at 15.
Take out a half inch V at M as indicated by dotted
lines.
U to 7 is 2j4 inches.
7 to 8 is I inch.
8 to g is 2^ inches.
9 to 10 is 13^ inches. ^^
10 to V is 2^ inches. 'A'-htnri I-
Shape as represented.
8o SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
RIDING JACKET.
By proportions from the following measurements: Draw a line from T through Z to 12. This line wi/
locate top of front shoulder, also lower shoulder
Height, 5 feet 4 inches. Bust, 36 inches.
point of back at W.
Breast, 34 inches. Waist, 24 inches.
A to X is ys breast. Draw a 4ine from X through
TO DR.^FT. point W down to 21, add from X to 13, yi inch,
Square lines A B D and ATS. and shape as represented.
A B A to 22 is j4 inch.
to is 3j^ inches, being /< of height plus 'i inch.
B to C is }i( breast plus }4 inch.

It will be seen that the distance from K to W is the
A to D is i6)4 inches, being of height plus }4

same as K to 21, and the distance from 27 to Y
}(
inch.
is the same as 27 to 21.
Square lines B C and D. Square down from F to 15, and advance from 15 to
C E and F 16 one inch. Then draw a line from 16 to F
to is j4 breast, to is yi full bust.
Divide breast into eight equal parts. and a line from S to F.
C to H is ^, H to I is i.^, I to J is '^, J to K is li,
S to 19 is yi breast, and 19 to 20 is ^ inch.
K to L is _!-§.
F to 21 and 16 to 18 is i '<( inches.
Square up lines and L.

Shape front as represented.
J
Points J V and U L will then form the diameter of D to 23 is 1 inch, and D to 24 is 6 inches.
scye, but as the scye in a lady's garment is D to I is I ^'2 inches.
somewhat wider than in a gentleman's, I advance 1 to 2 is yi inch.

2 to 3 is 2^4^ inches.
from L to 10 one-half inch and recede from
3 to 4 is I inch.
J to 1 one-half inch.
1 The arm scye will then
4 to 5 is 2\( inches, thus making the back and side
be nearly a circle, as indicated by dotted line
27-21.
body and underarm piece j^ of waist measure.
15 to 17 inch.
Point G is half way between E and F.
is •'s
17 to 9 is inches.
Square up from G to R.
I 5^6
Divide distance between G and 10 into three equal 9 to 8 is ^ inch.

8 to 7 is 2'/S inches.
parts and locate points O and P, and square up
14 to 6 is Jj4 inches.
points O and P.
Z is halfway between B and V. Shape as represented.
"vK
(10 )
RIDING SKIRT.
niagram on opposite page. The measures used THE BACK PART.

in drafting are as follows:
F to R is 20 inches being the same as the length of
Full length of skirt 40 inches. Waist, 24.
the skirt.
From waist to right knee, in a sitting position,
T is half way between F and R.
18^ inches. The width of skirt is regulated by the
Square up from T to U and draw a line from U to E
length, the width of the skirt being twice its length.
for top of back.
TO DRAFT THE FOREPART. G to J is 4 inches.
Square lines A X and A C. Shape left side from J to through I to F.
A to B is 4 inches. Apply waist measure from C to 5 and D. Place this
B to C is ' .? waist. amount at I and measure up to U, and what-
Sweep from C through 5 to D using B as pivot. ever amount is over the full waist measure is to
A to E is 14 waist. be taken out in two darts as from i to 2 and
G is half way between A and E. 3 to 4-
E to ¥ is >'8 length of skirt. R to S is 2 inches.
E to X is full length of skirt, 40 inches. Draw line from U through S and 7.
F to L is 40 inches or same as length of skirt. Draw a parallel line from T through 12 to 11.
L to M is yd the distance from F to L. Lay corner of square at S letting long arm rest at U
Square up from M to O. and square down to 12.
Draw a line from O to C, and add above line i^ R to V is 5 inches.
inches as shown in diagram. Square down from V to W.
Lay corner of square at O, letting arm rest at point 12 to R is I !-'2 inches longer than 12 to S.
L and draw a line down from O througli PL to Q. II to 7 is 1 -)-4 inches longer than 11 to 8.
Apply measure iS'j inches from 5 to 6, and take AV of )i( inches is taken out between 7 and 8.
I
out a slash of i inch in the center running out to Measure back part from U to S, R to 7 and 8 to \V
nothing at 5 and 6. The lower part should be cut and make forepart the same length from C to
J^ of an inch shorter than the top and stretched out O, P to Q.

so as make tiiis part hollow and fit in close in the There is a 5 to 6-inch turn-up or hem at the
lap when in a sitting position. bottom of skirt and the top of the skirt must be lined.
Point 10 is half way between point 6 and line M The opening is made on the left side as illustrated
O. The dart at O is 1 j-^ inches and the dart at P is on the pattern, also a pocket is either put lengthwise
I inch. in the side seam or crossways as indicated on
Shape left side from H down to F as shown in diagram. .\n elastic strap is sewed on the forepart
diagram. for the foot to hold the skirt down.
«Si5$$!S$:S5 iS^SSSSSs*
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OK CUT TING LADIES' GARMENTS.
^ ^ ^ ^ ^
RIDING SKIRT.
This riding skirt is more form fitting than the H to J is one-eighth of hip (<( on division).
preceding one. It is drafted from the proportions of F to N is ij^ inches.
the size of waist, hip and length of skirt as follows: L to M is j/^ hip on division.
Waist, 26 Hip, Length of skirt,

.V to I is one inch.
42 | 40
V
I
Take out a as between 2 and 3 so as to make

THE FOREPART (sEE DIAGRAM A).
distance from i to 2, 3 to M, one two inches
Draw a straight line A B C. less than half of waist measure.
Square across from A to L. Draw a line from M to N.
A to B is '/a of k-ngth and to D full length of skirt' Sweep from M to K by N.
and if extra length is desired add from one to N to 4 is ]'} hip on division.
two inches extra.
4 to 5 is 2 inches.
D to C is ]/(, of length. K to 7 is I inch and K to 6 is i inch.
Square lines B C and D. Draw straight line from 7 to N.
B to E is one-eighth of hip (14^ on division). 8 to 9 is one inch.
E to F is one-fourth of length. (See back part Diagram B on page 87.)
F to G is one-eighth of hip {]^ on division).
A^ «^ A^ A^ A^
86 SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADiES' GARMENTS.
«««««««»
RIDING SKIRT.
THE liACKPART (DIAGRAM li). A to D is length, the same as A to D on the fore-

Square line A B D. part.
Square across at A. VV to X is 3 inches.
A to B is }i length.
X to Y is ^ of hip (3^ on division).
A to C is )i( length. Reduce waist one inch at A and one inch in a V

Square lines B and C. between A and R.
C to E is one-eighth hip ( ^4 on division). M to I is I )^ inches and i to 3 is 6 inches.
E to F is ys length and F to G is i-s length. 3 to 5 is 4 inches.

G to H is one-eighth hip {y^ on division). N to 2 is I ^ inches.
K ways between F and L.

is lialf 2 to 4 is 3 inches.
Draw from K through P and R forming point

a line 4 to 6 is 10 inches.
Q, and sweep from a to R by Q. L to 7 one inch.

is
Sweep from R to S by K. Shape as represented and add seam when cutting the
S to T is 2 inches. cloth.
G to I is I ^ inches. The opening is in the left side as from A to B, which

Sweep from T to U by I.
is finished with a fly.
O to V is I }( inches.
The skirt must be lined over the knee as indicated
V to U is 1
3^ inches.
by dotted lines.
WSSSSS^ô ^S€e«s«»*
VARIATIONS.
THE CORPULENT FIGURE. one-fourth waist from E to T. Never take out more
(Diagram B). than Yi inch between back and side body at waist,
but take the extra suppression out between side-body
A to B is 4 inches (normal height 5 feet 4 inches).
and underarm piece, and in the side between under-
B to C ^ breast.
arm piece and point T.
C to F is half breast and C to G half bust.
H is halfways between breast and bust. LONG AND SHORT NECK.
H to J is ^ up to K.
bust; square
(Diagram A).
N is halfways between B and 6.
The depth of scye, the dorsal length, as from A
Draw a line from N to K.
to D contains two different quantities. A to B being
K to L is ^ breast.
the shortest distance is obtained from the height and
I is halfways between C and F; square down to E.
is minor dorsal length, the distance from
called the
Square down from H to R and advance from R to S
B to D being the longer distance is called the major
one inch.
dorsal length, and is obtained from the breast or size
Shape front center from K through X, G to S, as
of arm. If we have a short figure to cut for the
illustrated by crossed line. The crossed lines
minor dorsal length will become shorter as illustrated
represent the normal draft.
by point r, and if a longer figure the minor dorsal
To change from the normal to the corpulent I take
length becomes longer as indicated by point 2. The
as a standard that the normal waist should be ten
minor dorsal length is three sixty-fourths of entire
inches less than the breast measure. The accom-
panying draft Diagram B is 34 breast, 36 bust, and
height. M L N is the regular shoulder, i i N is the
short neck and 2 2 N is the long necked figure. V
24 waist. Now if we want to change this to 30 waist
to L is the normal front length of shoulder. V to i
we have six inches of extra fat, as we are cutting or
is the short neck and V to 2 the long necked figure.
drafting only half of the body we only use 3 inches,
These variations are obtained by either a shoulder
half of the extra fat, and add from S to U, 2 inches,
measure or short measures, depth of scye and strap
being Yi of the extra fat and from E to T we add the
length.
remainder i inch or one-third of the extra fat. I
Points 3, 4, 5 and 6 represent the diameter of the
then suppress between D
enough so as to
and T
scye. 7 is halfways between I and 4. N is half-
make it one-fourth of the waist, and takeout enough
ways between 6 and 8 plus one-quarter the difference
in the darts and side to make it measure one-fourth
between breast and bust measure.
waist from from T to U. Sweep from S to V by G
for front length, recede from K to 14^ inch for W Y is halfways between 4 and 5 and X halfways be-
tween 3 and 4; the distance from Y to P O and X
every inch the front has been advanced from S to U,
must be the same as Y 8 N to X.
then draw a line from W
to N and go back from W
to
The major dorsal length from B to C is ^ breast
I
J^ breast.
on division and C to D is J4 inch.
P to 2 is the same as L to i and X to 3 is the same
It will be noticed that the front shoulder points
as L to I.
also the center of neck as at K i and 2 remains on
For smaller waist than normal I suppress in darts
the same perpendicular line in all cases, also points
and side so as to make forepart measure one-fourth
waist as from T to"S (see Diagram A), and the back
M I and 2 on the back.
)< w
r^
^ ^-<^,
^g
2 4 7 if
DIAQ-A-
-<$)£:
SK T
(i I)
VARIATIONS.
The easiest way of finding whether our client I go back from D to E i^ bust; then from E to
stands normal, erect, or stooped, undoubtedly is by F }i breast; and draw up line from F to top line,
a comparison of the upper shoulder measure and and allow front shoulder point to come up to top
length of strap in the following manner: lineas in Diagram A. This will make the normal
In a normal figure the strap will measure one inch pattern ]{, inch erect, or in all }4 inch erect, if the
less than half of the upper shoulder as follows: back is not lowered, but if the back is lowered yi
inch then we will make the pattern one inch erect.
Strap, II
I
Upper shoulder, 24
(See Diagram A.) LARGE AND SMALL BLADE.
A to C is one-third upper shoulder plus )4 inch, and In a normal pattern the blade from C to I is ^3
C to B is ^ breast (on division) plus •^ inch. of breast, and G to H is ^ bust. The normal blade
M is always half-way between B and L. will measure ^^ inch less than half of the lower
D is half-way between half of breast and half of bust shoulder measure.
measures.' If two-thirds of breast, as from C to I, measures
D to E is 14 bust (this is the only point that I use say 111/2 and half of the lower shoulder is 12, then
the division of bust for). we have a normal blade, but if half of the lower
Square up from E to K. shoulder is only iiyi, then we have a ],^ inch smaller
In a normal figure point K is on the same line with A. blade than normal, and we recede J^ inch, as from I
Draw a line from K to M. to I, and J to i.

K to N is ^ breast. Whenever blade is smaller than normal and point
The solid lines represent the normal pattern, and I moved back say J/o inch, point H must recede ]^
is
the broken lines the erect, which is produced from inch as from H to i, N to i and Q to i. The small
the following measures: Strap, 11 J4; upper shoulder, blade is indicated by broken lines marked i, i, i,
24; half of strap is 12, one inch less makes it 11, and the large blade by dash and dot lines marked 2,
which is the normal strap to a 24 upper shoulder. and whatever front of scye is moved forward or
By comparing the normal strap, 11, to our measure, back the shoulder must be changed one-half ti e
which is yi, we find that our client is j/3 inch erect,
1 1 amount forward or back.
so I lower the back y^ inch as from A to i, and raise Diagram D represents an ordinary standing collar.
the front ]/2 inch as from K to i, and draw a line A to B is J^ the neck.
from M to i, which is yi inch above K. Points i, B to C is ij^ inches, or to style and fancy.
1, I indicate the pattern for the ereet form on Dia- A to I is inch and D to 2 is ^ inch.
J/^'
gram A. Diagram E represents a standing turn-down col-

The stooping form is illustrated on Diagram B. lar.
The solid lines represent the normal figure, the broken A to B is half neck.
lines 2, 2, 2, are for the stooped figure from the A to D and B to C is i^ inches.
following measures: Strap, 10 J^; upper shoulder, 24; D to F and C to E is 2 inches.
half of upper shoulder is 12, one inch less is 11 A to I is one inch and D to 2 is the same.
By comparing this amount with the strap measure, F to 3 and 3 to 4 is i inch.

which is }4 inch less, we find that our client is yi Diagram F is a straight standing collar and is
inch stooped. Raise the back )4 inch, as from A to sometimes used in connection with a frill top collar,
2. Lower front same amount as from K to 2. Draw as illustrated in Diagram G.
a line from M to 3^ inch below K, as at 2. Make a circle as indicated by line i
— 3; make a
Nora.— -I find in practice that very few ladies are larger circle as per line 2 — 4.
stooped, the most of them being erect, therefore a I to 3 is Yi of smaller circle; shape from 3 to 2 as
number of diagrams in this work are drafted erect in shown in diagram. Inside edge i, 3, 4, is sewed on
the following manner: to the neck, or to band. Diagram F.
r -*:^,
V u
GENERAL INFORMATION.
HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES. FOR BREECHES.
To insure a perfect fitting garment for all shapes Measure from waist to knee and to ankle for length.
and forms it is necessary to take particular pains The rise may be taken from waist to seat of the
when taking the measure. It matters not whether chair, lady being in a sitting position.
these measures be what is termed the short actual
measures or the long shoulder measures; either can
THE SHORT MEASURES.
be applied on this system. Before taking the meas- If the short instead of the shoulder measures are
ure it is well to remove all bows and other trimmings wanted, take the regular strap from bottom of scye
that may be on our client's dress bodice at neck and in front of arm up to neck at back, then hold tape
waist, for it is impossible to get a correct measure in front of arm and measure over shoulder to mark
with these obstructions in our way; it takes but a in center of back opposite bottom of scye; this
few minutes to sew them on. measure is called first over shoulder. Then measure
Place a square under the arm and make a mark from front of scye over shoulder to bottom of scye
with chalk at bottom of scye in front and back of close up to arm in back; this measure is called second
arm, thenmake a mark in center of back opposite over-shoulder, or closing measure. Then take depth
mark made near arm; then proceed to measure. of scye from top of neck to point marked in center
Place measure at top of back at neck (socket bone) of back on a level or horizontal line with bottom of
and measure to front of arm to chalk-mark; this arm-scye; this measure is called the depth of scye.
measure is called strap. Then continue the measure These are the regular measures used. The cutter
under the arm and up to top of neck; this measure may take any other measure that he can apply in
is the upper shoulder. Then place end of tape in practice.
the center of back, between and opposite the arm or CUTTING THE CLOTH.
on an average of 4)2 inches down from top of neck;
All patterns according to this method of drafting
let tape lay over top of shoulder under the arm and
are without seams, and I hold that this is the only
up to starting point; this is the lower shoulder
correct way of drafting the various styles of ladies'
measure. Then take measure from top of neck at
garments, for, unlike the gentlemen's garments, they
back to front of neck; then continue down to lower number
vary a great deal in the amount or of seams,
part of bust for top of dart, then down to full length
for we have basques and waists with one, two and
of waist in front. Ne.xt measure side length from
three side bodies, also one to two darts; sleeves with
under part of arm to top of hip; then length of back
one or two seams; skirts with four to eleven gores;
from top of neck to waist, and full length of garment
so the easiest as well as the most correct method is
desired. Place square under arm and measure down
to cut ladies' garments without seams and add seams
to elbow and to hand for length of sleeve. Next
and outlets when cutting tHe cloth.
measure around arm at shoulder for scye, then width
In laying the pattern on the goods the forepart
at elbow and hand. The breast measure is taken
should lay so that the front seam of the first dart will
moderately close above the bust; then lower tape in
run with the tread or lengthwise with the material,
front, letting it remain in regular position in back,
the back of first dart will then be on the bias;
seam
and measure easy over the largest part of bust. The
and the front seam of second dart on the length of
waist measure is taken snug over the band of the
goods and the back seam of second dart will be on
skirt; for a longer garment it is necessary to take the
the bias. The center seam of the back should lay
hip measure.
with edge of goods at top and in from the edge at
FOR SKIRTS. waist about two inches. Lay the side body so that
Measure the front, side and back length, waist and it matches the back, and under-armpiece to match
hip. Also, make a note of what size around the the side body.
bottom. The center of sleeve should run lengthwise. The
front of skirt is usually cut on the fold and all bias are sewed up separate and put together the same as
edges of the gores go to the back and the straight in gentlemen's garments.
edges to the front unless there be an extra back gore, It is well to have a little extra size across the chest.
when the bias edges of the back gores meet the bias A little too large over the bust is far better than
edges of the side gores. snug, and unless the lady has a large bust it will be
well to allow a little extra size over the bust and fill
MAKING TO TRY ON.
it up with stiffening and wadding.
In silk waist or when other thin material is used Large sized sleeves should be interlined with
for the waist, the lining is cut and fitted, then the fibre chamois or scrim; also the skirt should be
lining is placed on a form or dummy and the outside interlined with same material.
goods is fitted to the lining. In cloth or woollen A French canvas, cut on the bias, 8 to lo
strip of
goods it is best to cut the cloth for the try-on. In inches wide, should be put in the bottom of the skirt.
basting up the waist for try on the back, side-body The bottom of skirt is finished with a corduroy or
and underarm pieces should be sewed together, as it velvet binding.
is found that the basting will not hold the waist The dress reform skirt should reach 2 to 3 inches
together close enough; if basted, it must be done above the natural waist and button on to a waist, so
very carefully or the seams will pull apart. The side that the skirt will hang on the shoulders instead of
seams, also the darts, should be basted with the the hips. On the tailor-made gown, suit or wrap
seams and the darts should not be cut
to the outside there should be no braiding or trimming of any kind,
out until after the garment is tried on. The sleeves for in order to give it the stricdy tailor-made effect
and collar should be basted into try-on, and in deli- all fancy trimmings must be left off.
cate shades or light weight goods the skirt lining may Seams and edges may be stitched or strapped, and
be cut out and fitted and the outside goods cut from all ornamentations must be strictly tailor-made. A
the lining. In silk and other light weight materials great number of first class tailors will insist on the
the goods and linings are basted together and sewed left forepart overlapping the right forepart in front,
together in the seams; the seams are pressed open the backtack being laid to the right the same as on a
and bound. In woollen goods, the goods and lining gentleman's coat.
^ ^ «^ «^ «^
CHAS. J. STONE
«î* e^"* t3^ Ci?^ <5^ President and General Manager
The Designing, Cutting and /Vlal(ing of
Isadies' and Gentlemen's G arments ^

of all Kinds Taught ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Instructions given daily (except Sunday) Evening Classes when necessary. Tuition
from 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. must be paid in advance in all cases.
<^*' (^^ t^^ t£^ t2^
INCREASING popularity of the Art of Ladies' Garment Cutting, as taught by School,

THEdemonstrated manner in a entirely satisfactory to us, and should be sufficient to
this
impress upon those

is
who are seeking the best system that we are prepared to impart information and thorough instruc-
tion not equalled in this country.
Our facilities are unequalled, and we aim to make our work so complete that when we have instructed
a pupil, and indorsed him as competent, he is fully prepared to take a position in any first-class establish-
ment, and fill it with acceptability to his employer and credit to us as his instructor.
We find each session a greater demand than we are capable of accommodating. This we attribute to
the acknowledged superiority of our Systems, and is an acceptable tribute to our proficiency as instructors.
The Systems taught by us have received universal endorsement from the Cutting Fraternity as correct in
theory and reliable in practice.
Our charge for a thorough course of instruction is One Hundred Dollars paid in advance.
The time usually occupied by students in perfecting themselves is about four weeks, although some
few require more time, but we have no limit as to time for instruction, as it is our desire that no one shall
leave our school until we are satisfied of their perfection. We cannot afford to have pupils leave us with
but an indifferent knowledge of the theory of garment cutting; they must be perfect before we will furnish
them with a certificate. Under no circumstances will we issue diplomas unless convinced of the ability
of the pupils to satisfactorily use the Systems taught them.

...
.
RELIABLE MODEL PATTERNS

~><FORNr=C_
LADIES' BARMENTS
SIZE EACH FULL SET SIZE EACH
Basque, bust 28-40 . . g i 00 S i o 00 Riding Breeches, waist
. . . .
20-32
Jackets, any style, bust 28-40.. i . 00 . . 10.00 Leggins
D. B. Reefer, bust 28-40.. i.oo.. 10.00 Caps 6- 7
Cutaway Coats, bust 28-40.. i.oo.. 10.00 Bicycle Coats, bust 28-40
D. B. Frock, bust 28-40 . 1.25 12 .00 Bicycle Skirts, waist 20-32
D. B. Ulster, bust 28-40 . 1.25 1 2 .00 Golf Capes, bust 28-40
D. B. Vest, bust 28-40 5.00
.
.50 Double Capes, bust 28-40
Costume Skirt, waist 20-32 .75 7-5° Three Decker Cape, bust.
.
. ..28-40
Riding Skirt, waist 20-32 i .50 10 .00 Single Sleeves
. .
28-40
Divided Riding Skirt, waist . . 20-32 . 1.50 10 .00
Works on ruttingf
FOR SALE AT OL'R OFFICE.
•8e;®c'
^^^ . - - — -.
*•*.
Stone's New Superlative System of

• Designing and Cutting ^
*
Ladies' and Gentlemen's
Garments ^ ^ ^ ^
System
TheanAuthor of this has spent twenty years at the cutting board; he has taken
active part in advancing the custom cutter, and organized cutters' societies. He has
always been a leader in practical work, always ready to exchange ideas with leading
men in our profession, and after all these twenty years of hard study, he has now the satis-
faction of having hundreds of pupils using his methods of cutting, and we refer you to our
students who have carried off medals and prizes at conventions held by the National Custom
Cutters' Association of America.
Stone's Superlative SvJstem of Cutting laadies' Garments, $10.00

Stone's Superlative Coat and Vest System (new), = 5.00
Stone's Superlative Trouser Sjjstcm (new), = = = 5.00
Stone's Paramount Coat, Vest and Trouser System, = 5.00
Stone's Superlative Shirt and Drawer SvJstem, - = 3.00
The above works on Cutting is what we teach in our School, and will be sent prepaid by
mail on receipt of price.
Send Chicago Exchange or Postoffice Order and the book will be sent by mail. No book
will be sent C. O. D.
Correspondence must, in all cases, be addressed to the house.
Address all orders to THE CHAS. J. STONE CO.
194 and 196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO, ILL
All communications will receive prompt attention.

>
THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. ——

CUTTING SCHOOL-
194-196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO
Terms for Instruction— to be paid in advance
For a complete course of Instruction (to Practical Tailors) in Gentlemen's Garment Cutting (time unlimited) $100 00
Coat System, alone 50 GO
Vest System, alone 25 00
Trouser System, alor.e , 35 00
Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters 50 00
Gra
rading. 50 00
Boys and Children 100 00
LADIES' CUTTING
For complete course of Ladies' Garments $100 00
Ladies' Basques, Jackets and all Over Garments 50 OO
Ladies' Basque, Bodice, Sleeves and Skirts 25 00
PRACTICAL CUTTERS
Desiring to change their Systems, limited to twelve days, Coats, Vests and Trousers $ 50 00
Price to Cutters for Coat System, alone 30 00
" " Trouser System, alone 15 00
" •'
Vest System, alone 15 00
** " Fancy Garments, Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Over Gaiters 25 00
PRACTICAL CUTTERS
Eor special and private instruction In measuring, drafting, or explaining points in Coats, Vests, Trousers or Grading,
Cutting by Block Patterns, or Ladies' Cutting, occupying from one hour to one day $5.00 to $25.00
I^°This is a Special Feature.
Address, CHAS. J. STONE, Priuate Office,
The Chas. J. Stone Co. Cutting School, CHICAGO, ILL.
( 12 )
-^STQNE•S RELIABLE BLOCK PAÊRNS•^
'
PRICES OF PATTERNS IN SETS.
Men's Overcoats, from 33 to 42 breast measure - • - . $12 00

" Undercoats, 33 to 42 " " - . . . - 10 00
" Trousers, 29 to 42 waist " - - - - 10 00
Vest,
Ladies' Jackets,
32 to 42 breast
32 to 42 bust
'*
"
-
.... - - . - 6 00
10 00
"
Ulsters,
Undercoats,
Dolmans,
Boys' Overcoats, from 10 to 18 years
etc.,
10 to 18
32 1042 bust measure
"
-.-.-. - -
-
-
-
-
-
- .
• 12
6 00
00
00
" Trousers, 10 to 18 " • - - - - - 6 00

" Vests, 10 to 18 " 00
5
A discount of 15 per cent, will be allowed on all orders over $25. 00.
whether Cut to Measure given

Prices of Single Patterns, or Regular Blocks.
Undercoats, any style

Trousers and Vest, each
Overcoats, any style or size
----..-.
-
....-.- -2
- - - - - $100
jô
y^
Cape, or other Fancy Overcoats - - - - - - 00
rÔr special nâ-tternS the following measures are necessary:
The Breast Measure for Overcoats, which should be given as taken over the vest, and
unless it is especially stated that it is taken over the coat, it will be so used.
The measures necessary for all Undercoats to order are: Length of coat, length of sleeve
breast, waist, hip and seat measures (the hip measure to be taken around the form where the
waist seam is located). This measure is of vast importance for all skirt coats. Get height of
customer, and, if possible, a concise description of the figure for whom it is intended.
For Vests and Trousers the usual measures. The form of customer should be briefly
described.
All orders for Patterns must be accompanied by a cash Remittance of at least 50 percent.
of the amount ordered, to receive attention.
Address all orders to THE CHAS. J. STONE CO.

194 and 196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO, ILL
CUTTERS' AND TAILORS' SUPPLIES.
A Selected Assortment of Tailors' Implements of every description.
The Best in the Market, and the Tools most generally used,
at reasonable prices.
3
3K
4
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

Cutting 1897

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_^,

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

(utting [odies' Garments

A SCIENTIFIC, SURE AND SIMPLE METHOD

ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES OF FINELY ENGRAVED DIAGRAMS, WITH FULL

Copyrighted 1897 by Chas. J. Stone C'o ^^

Preface, 6 The Melon Sleeve, 59

Proportion Table, 9 Coaching Coat, by Proportions, 62 63

Proportionate Division, 10-13 Capes, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69

Proportion in Practice, 14-15 Bicycle Coat, by Proportions, 70-71

Dress Bodice, by Shoulder Measures, 16-17 Cycling Knickers, 72-73

Dress Bodice, by Short Measure, 18-19 Divided Riding Skirt, 74-75

Basque, by Shoulder Measures, 20-21 Bicycle Skirt, 76

D. B. Frock, 22-23 Divided Bicycle Skirt, 77

Fancy Waist, by Proportions, 24-25 Bicycle Cap, 77

Jacket and Vest, by Proportions, 26-27 Leggins, 78

D. B. Vest, by Proportions, 28-29 Riding Breeches, 7.8-79

Cutaway Frock, by Shoulder Measures, 30-31 Riding Jacket, 80-81

D. B. Cutaway Jacket, by Proportions, 32-33 Riding Skirt, - 82-83

Principles of Sleeve Cutting, 36, 37. 38, 39 Variations, 88-89, 90-91

The Foundation Skirt, 40-41 General Information, 92-93

Skirts, 42, 43. 44, 45 Our Cutting School, 94

D. B. Jacket, 46-47 Price List of Patterns, Ladies', -

The Balloon Sleeve, 48-49 Works on Cutting, 96

D. B. Jacket, by Shoulder Measure, 50-51 Terms for Instructions, 97

The New Bishop Sleeve, 54-55 Cutters' and Tailors' Supplies, 99

D. B. Coat, by Proportions, 56-57

§ERHAPS in nr other branch of tailoring can a system based on the pro-

quite inexcusable in a woman, and it is the tailor's object to overcome all

so far as the tailor is concerned, than the employment of a system based on

is greatly simplified by the employment of the system explained in the pages of

which is demanded and only artistically attained by the system of proportions.

the cutter a most comprehensive understanding of the foundation that he is to

}^ inch, or if the upper shoulder measure is used to obtain depth of scye, A to C

are found opposite that height scale.

face, but to tailors

fourth of breast, 4>4 inches, added to bust

«o** -^.g. cross

THE DRESS BODICE.

The diagram on opposite page is produced by the

From the following measurements:

DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK.

The waist on opposite page is produced from the Square up from J to F.

following measurements: Square up from H to O.

Length of waist, i6 Breast, 33 Waist, 23 A to V is '6 breast.

26 SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

JACKET AND VEST.

On the diagram of a jacket and

Length of 14 to 34 is '4 breast.

Breast, 16 to 29 is I }/2 inches.

2 to 3 is 3 inches. 20 to 21 is 2yi inches.

On opposite page we give a normal draft of a C to E is ::; of bust measure.

Scjuare lines A D and A L. P to 10 is yi inch.

A to B is 3)4 inches. R to 7 is I inch.

DOUBLE-BREASTED CUTAWAY JACKET.

BASQUE AND VEST.

Upper shoulder, 22 J^ Front length, 19^ Breast, 32

Lower shoulder, 2i]4 Natural waist, 16^ waist measure.

Hip, 9 to 10, from g to m center of dart

A to E is "/ inch. inches.

Draw line from O to J and from through X for

D to M is ^2 lower shoulder, less y'^ inch.

N is half way between D and M. h to e is I inch,

L is half way between D and H. e to s is lyi inches,

t^ t^' ^^^ ^ *i^