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Fitting Body Coats

Started by Sator , Aug 18 2009 12:49 PM

Posted 18 August 2009 - 12:49 PM

Sator

Here is something by Percival Thickett on the subject of issues peculiar to the fitting of body coats. Body coats are
frustratingly sensitive to balance problems - much more so than lounges, which seem rather more forgiving. The coat
must sit into the waist by virtue of perfect balance. If you try to make a body coat sit close to the waist by forcing waist
suppression onto it you only end up upsetting the balance further, so that the original problem is only partly
improved, only to cause a whole host of other problems to surface.

Some of the following discussion relates to specific types of body coat. However, many of the general principles can
also be applied to issues related to semi-body coats (body coat back, lounge-Chester fronts eg paletots/racing coats
and some sports jackets).

One of the most important things is to look at the centre vent of the skirt to ensure it is not gaping or overlapping
excessively. Although this can be due to a problem in the way the skirt has been cut, the first and most important
thing to exclude before altering the skirt, is to ensure the cause is not a balance problem.

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