Sleevehead S Guide To Sicilian Tailors (2nd Edition)

Buyer: John Glass (jglass785@googlemail.
com)
Transaction ID: j-qau0azc5ff0943e
SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO
Sicilian Tailors Second Edition
A Survey of Sicilian Tailors and

Contemporary Tailoring Strategies
Juhn Maing
Buyer: John Glass (jglass785@googlemail.com)
Sleevehead’s Guide to Sicilian

Tailors
A Survey of Sicilian Tailors and Contemporary

Tailoring Strategies
Second Edition
Juhn Maing
Copyright © 2017, 2011 by Juhn Maing. All rights reserved.
Published by Juhn Maing

Second Edition
ISBN 978-1-64136-627-4 (e-book)
ISBN 978-1-387-02486-5 (paperback)
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in

any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording,
scanning or by an information storage and retrieval system, without the prior written
permission from the copyright owner.
All inquiries should be addressed to Juhn Maing at sleevehead@gmail.com.
Summary: Sleevehead's Guide to Sicilian Tailors is the first and only comprehensive guide
exploring the largely undiscovered world of Sicilian bespoke tailoring. This new expanded
edition is the definitive reference on Sicilian tailoring whose signature is a softly structured
jacket and whose heritage rivals Savile Row and Naples. New to the second edition is a useful
framework comparing Sicilian tailoring to other modern tailoring strategies. The author
covers an expanded list of more than 20 tailors across Sicily including the four largest cities
(Palermo, Catania, Messina and Syracuse) and two smaller towns (Ragusa and Modica) as
well as other artisanal makers of shirts, ties and accessories. Logistical and travel details have
also been updated to plan your own sartorial trip.
Front cover: Sicilian tailoring is based on a sartorial reckoning that appreciates curves but
respects lines.
Back cover: Lines and curves in an interior staircase of the Arab-Norman Palace (Palazzo dei
Normanni) in Palermo.
For spirits like K. and A. who enliven and

enlighten the world
SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS
Contents
Mt. Etna’s volcanic cadence oscillates between relative calm and restless activity
Acknowledgements..................................................................................................................... 2
Preface to Second Edition ........................................................................................................... 3
Introduction ................................................................................................................................. 7
Tailoring Strategies in Context ................................................................................................. 10
A Note on Sicilian Tailors ......................................................................................................... 15
Palermo ....................................................................................................................................... 19
Annex: Palermo Tailors ............................................................................................................. 34
Catania ........................................................................................................................................ 35
Annex: Catania Tailors .............................................................................................................. 51
Messina ....................................................................................................................................... 52
Annex: Messina Tailors ............................................................................................................. 67
Syracuse ...................................................................................................................................... 70
Ragusa ......................................................................................................................................... 73
Modica ........................................................................................................................................ 77
Bespoke Shirts, Ties & Accessories .......................................................................................... 79
Conclusion .................................................................................................................................. 87
Next Steps ................................................................................................................................... 89
Sourcing Your Cloth .................................................................................................................. 93
Planning Your Trip .................................................................................................................... 96
Afterword: To the Tailors ........................................................................................................ 101
Appendix: Tailoring Archive .................................................................................................. 103
References ................................................................................................................................. 108
Page 1
Acknowledgements
Fittingly, the first edition of this guide to Sicilian thank the diligent Sleevehead readers who have
tailors would not have been possible without the contacted me over the years with timely updates
invaluable help of Sicilians. I owe a very special and including: Kamil Kajetanowicz, Ottavio Trigona,
profound thanks to Elisabetta D’Avenia for deploying Daniel Coker, and Federico Rifurgiato.
her formidable translation skills to this project and An additional thanks goes to Media M Archive,
for introducing me, directly or indirectly, to a number Ewan Thomas and Lillo Scarantino for providing
of individuals who supported me during my first set photos and to Fratelli Gorgone and Giovanni
of travels in Sicily in 2011. These include: Paola Cinturrino for allowing me to take extensive photos
D’Avenia, Lorenzo Avola, Dario Veneziano, Viviana of their workshops. All other photos are provided
Sedita and Chloe Fawcett. courtesy of the author.
I also would like to thank Terry A. Teplitz, M.D., I have attempted to verify facts and figures as
and Réginald-Jérôme de Mans for raising a host of much as possible, but any errors or inaccuracies in
perceptive questions and providing very constructive details are of course mine. Quoted prices are current
comments and feedback. as of spring and summer 2017.
Bruce Boyer, Hugo Jacomet and Sven Raphael I also feel obliged to offer a special thanks to
Schneider also deserve my thanks for recognizing the fabric stores around the world selling directly to the
novelty of the first edition. Photographer Yasmine consumer such as Tip Top Fabrics in Brooklyn, Mood
Soiffer was instrumental in saving some of the jackets Fabrics (New York and Los Angeles) and De Pasquale
from certain demise at the hands of the author. (Messina). Without such shops, this guide likely
For this second edition, I would like to express would have remained a wishful and errant thought.
my gratitude to Tim Mureau for his steadfast support The observations and views expressed in this
and unstinting enthusiasm for this update and my guide are based on store visits, interviews and
other project Sicilian Reserve, and again to Dr. Teplitz personal experience as a prospective or actual
who reprised his earlier role by reviewing the draft customer. No gifts, sponsorships or endorsements
and offering perceptive feedback. This update was were made in exchange for inclusion or special
greatly aided by Guido Davi, Claudio Italiano and consideration in this guide.
Lillo Scarantino who were exemplars of Palermitan If you have questions, updates on existing tailors
and Sicilian hospitality. or suggestions for new tailors, please feel free to email
I am indebted to Sleevehead reader Oskar me at sleevehead@gmail.com.
Volkland for allowing me to use photos of his 2017
meeting with Syracuse tailor Nunzio Zocco, which I
have all too cleverly leveraged. I must also collectively
Page 2
Preface to the Second Edition
Interior mosaic of the Arab-Norman Palace (Palazzo dei Normanni) in Palermo - a fusion of diverse arts and crafts
An island not island enough: in this contradiction is and that distinction is impressed upon insiders and
the historical theme of Sicily, its vital substance. outsiders as a matter of course.
- Giuseppe Antonio Borgese, Una Sicilia senza aranci Contrary to this logic Sicily has never been isolated
to that extent and thus never truly developed into a
With the benefit of hindsight and Borgese, I see
fully independent island nation or nation-state. Yet it
now why Sicilian tailoring as a distinct entity has been
still coheres as a cultural entity after 3,000 years of
slow to take root outside of the island.
recorded history.
In the quote above, Borgese highlights a tension in
Sicily’s continuity is paradoxically due to its
Sicily’s history by raising the question of the existential
openness to outside influences, which were plentiful:
meaning of an island culture. Inhabitants of other Phoenician, Greek (both classical and Byzantine),
islands such as England and Japan have tended to view
Roman, Germanic, Norman French, Arab, Spanish
themselves as distinct isolates. That is, they believe
Bourbon, English and Italian.
their cultural continuity is due to a separation and even
By extension, the genius of Sicilian tailoring is best
isolation from external influences.
appreciated by those who are open-minded to its
This lends itself to a kind of comparative immunity.
influences, namely, structured and soft tailoring. As
The idea is a simple but powerful one. As an island
these are often opposing sartorial preferences, such
nation, we are distinct in tangible and intangible ways
individuals are not common but they exist. This guide
Page 3

has them in mind but it knowledge. I have
is by no means limited concluded that the fear
to them. of flying to Sicily and
This second edition departing with a poor
in fact addresses a experience is worrying
wider audience about the wrong type of
compared to the first risk.
edition. My original use There are of course
case centered on the exceptions to the rule
reader with a decided
in any human
preference for bespoke
endeavor. But I have yet
cut-make-trim (CMT),
to personally
who is well-traveled,
and enjoys Italian experience that
bespoke tailoring. exception. At a macro
Since Sicilian level, I contend the
tailors were rather greater risk is missing
unknown to me in out entirely on Sicilian
2011, I felt I needed to tailoring.
conduct due diligence Consequently, the aim
and validate their skill of the second edition
level. Hence I ordered has evolved over time.
suits across a sample of It now is designed as a
tailors in different guide to highlight the
regions. strengths and
I have good news distinguishing
to report. Having characteristics of each
traveled regularly tailor so that you may
across Sicily for my proceed not simply to
bespoke commissions One island: two workshops (Zocco, Macchia), two generations, avoid risk but also to
in the last six years, I two towns (Syracuse, Messina) and two sartorial tendencies experiment.
(more v. less structure) In my view, Sicilian
have yet to come across
an unskilled tailor. tailoring constitutes a
Instead, the skill level is incredibly high, third school of bespoke tailoring distinct from the
especially tailors with decades of experience. They two other well-known options: Savile Row and
embody an enormous wealth of experience and Naples. Savile Row embodies sobriety and discretion
Page 4

in a jacket while Naples embodies exuberance (i.e. and an openness to externalities. It is almost
less structure). As a matter of attitude, Sicilian inconceivable that a monotone orthodoxy, sartorial
tailoring is more reserved than Naples but “smiles” a or otherwise, could flourish in Sicily. Its syncretic,
bit more than London. The result is a subtly different polyglot history proves the point.
shape and silhouette of the Sicilian jacket and pants Hence, the subtle nuances and blending of
compared to their more familiar counterparts. Sicilian tailoring. Every Sicilian tailor I have met is
I also believe that Sicilian tailoring is the last rooted in a specific place yet is also influenced by
school of Western tailoring to have organically something else - usually exposure to other tailors,
coalesced before we enter an age of factory-based, cities and clients. Place grounds and integrates the
automated cutting and tailor and his
sewing. It is also workshop. Openness
arguably the only to the outside alters
school in which tailors them. This
are open to both soft convergence of place,
and structured craft and the outside
tailoring and regularly world has shaped
produce jackets in Sicilian tailoring over
both styles. time.
Historians and Because they are more
writers have noted a localized and less
certain sadness in known, Sicilian tailors
Sicilian culture. I are able to create a
would characterize it rarer product than
more as a sense of London and Naples.
anxiety, an aftereffect The difference is an
of being continuously Mosaic in the Palatine Chapel - a study in curvilinear design order of magnitude or
influenced by other more. A typical Sicilian
actors (both natural and human) in the workshop may produce less than a hundred suits per
Mediterranean basin. Perhaps it is this “anxiety of year as opposed to thousands of suits elsewhere.
influence” that endows a native resistance to In the end, what is Sicilian tailoring? A precise
tailoring orthodoxy such as rigid structure. At the definition may be impossible but it is a craftiness,
same time, Sicily’s climate encourages a less even artfulness, in the pursuit of applied human
structured concept for jackets. geometry. A kind of sartorial reckoning that
The result is a tantalizing melange of structure appreciates (even savors) curves but respects lines.
and softness, an interplay between a sense of place Perhaps it could only come to fruition on an island
Page 5

with 3,000 years of continuous yet disruptive
influences. Such influences repeatedly raise and level
the senses yielding an aesthetic with divergent
tendencies.
One of the pleasures of the first edition has been
connecting with readers also drawn to this blend of
historical restiveness, artisanal rootedness and craft
agility.
To the readers of both editions - thank you for
supporting the Sicilian bespoke tradition and the
tailors who continue to answer the call of this special
craft. Someday you might even have the pleasure of
hearing your Sicilian tailor call it something akin to
an art.
Page 6
Introduction
Teatro Massimo in Palermo

To see Italy without seeing Sicily is not to have seen Much has been written and continues to be written
Italy at all, for Sicily is the key to everything. about Savile Row's history, tailors and traditions.
- Goethe, Italian Journey (1816-17 [1787]) Despite acquisitions and consolidations, the
Englishness of Savile Row continues to this day, intact
In the last five years, menswear has rapidly and resilient.
become a force to reckon with. Somewhat Since the end of World War II, the principal
surprisingly, custom or bespoke tailoring is beginning alternative to Savile Row has been Italy, namely the
to recapture the hearts, minds and wallets of tailoring found in Rome and south of the Eternal
discerning male consumers. Men have once again City. When one thinks of southern Italian tailors
become more interested in dressing well, and have today, the premier city that comes to mind is Naples.
begun to discover and ally themselves with distinct Indeed, the clamor for Neapolitan tailors has
tailoring traditions for their clothing. been growing steadily in the last few years, aided by
These days the great divide of bespoke menswear an explosion in coverage on social media, blogs and
begins and ends with Savile Row and southern Italy. online discussion forums.
Given its founder status in modern men's clothing, The focus of this book is Sicily, which has been
Savile Row needs very little by way of introduction. It the more neglected half of southern Italian tailoring.
has represented and defined the modern Western Recasting Goethe's observation, I would venture to
mode of masculine dressing for nearly two centuries. say that without seeing Sicilian tailoring one cannot
Page 7
Introduction
get a clear idea of the richness and diversity of Italian This new edition should appeal to several types of
tailoring, or indeed Western tailoring as a whole. readers. Perhaps the most self-evident type is the
However, there is very little in print or on the web value-oriented one. This guide uncovers tailors who
about Sicilian tailors. I hope to correct that by can make a largely handmade bespoke jacket using
increasing the exposure of this talented group of tailors customer supplied cloth (CMT) at very competitive
and connecting them to customers enthusiastic for the prices. Sicilian tailoring is superbly positioned for those
kind of tailoring they represent. who have always wanted or needed bespoke but found
Sicilian tailoring is a compelling, hybrid blend of established bespoke houses to be out of reach. For me,
traditional and soft tailoring, what I call “softly Sicilian tailoring’s accessibility allowed me to
structured” tailoring. It readily acknowledges and tips experiment with and expand my wardrobe far more
its hat to Neapolitan tailoring with than I otherwise would have.
its shirt-shoulder construction Another relevant audience is men
(manica camicia) and generous who are looking for something
removal of interior linings and unique in their wardrobe and who
supporting structure. But it does don't mind trying something new
not pursue deconstructed tailoring or traveling abroad. Even if you are
to its logical extreme. a bit of a tailoring old soul, the
Sicilian tailoring lies chances are high that Sicily has not
somewhere between the exuberant hit your radar screen.
deconstructedness of the giacca Cloth aficionados will also find
napoletana (or Neapolitan jacket) Sicily to be an alluring catalyst - a
and the more structured, lined Scylla and Charybdis if you will - to
jacket with a traditional set-in transform their languishing cloth
shoulder. I think it is fair to say inventory into sartorial work in
that Sicilian jackets are lightly progress. This guide just might be
structured, subtly shaped and softly the necessary intervention to clear
constructed, especially in the away years of accumulated fabric
shoulder and chest. overhang.
This guide provides an introductory survey to However, I should note that casual interest in
contemporary tailors in Sicily who work within this Sicilian bespoke may be insufficient to make this a
paradigm. The first edition was the product of several viable, do-it-yourself (DIY) option. If you wish to
visits in the summer of 2011, when I met about a dozen explore Sicily on your own using just this guide, you’ll
tailors in three different cities: Palermo, Catania and need a certain level of commitment.
Messina. During the course of my visits, I ordered As a DIY option, Sicily is off the beaten track for
jackets, suits and trousers from five different tailors in the typical luxury consumer. For the most part, the
those three cities. tailors here toil away in plain and unadorned
Page 8
Introduction
Palermo Street Food festival on Via Roma with the central train station in the distance
workshops, often without air conditioning. Almost tailoring without having to travel abroad. In 2017, I
without exception, they do not speak English. launched Sicilian Reserve to address this particular
Compared to more luxury-oriented tailoring houses, opportunity. Please read the Next Steps chapter for
the hospitality is much more modest in Sicily. The tailor more information on the DIY and Sicilian Reserve
will likely suggest going out for a simple cup of gelato options. Please also support future updates of this book
or espresso instead of ushering you into a private, by joining the Sleevehead Forum and community.
wood-paneled drawing room and offering a single malt Along with this unique opportunity comes a
Scotch and a seat on a Chesterfield sofa. peculiar responsibility. In Sicily we have the option to
The DIY reader of this guide will ideally be an participate in a unique ecosystem of tailors whose
experienced bespoke customer who travels regularly to sustainability deserves enthusiastic customers and
Europe for work or leisure. Temperamentally, he is thoughtful advocacy. Treat these tailors well and you
reasonably adaptive, open-minded and resourceful. will be rewarded many times over.
Materially speaking, he is likely to have a ready I truly hope you are inspired to get up close and
inventory of cloths waiting to be made into jackets or personal with Sicilian tailoring. Looking back at the last
suits. This is a bespoke experience for someone who six years, I have had the great fortune of realizing my
can roll his sleeves up to see his commissions through sartorial interests, curiosities and experiments almost
and adapt to local customs as needed. entirely on this intriguing Mediterranean island. It is
If you’re not able to visit Sicily in a DIY approach, my express hope you will realize yours as well.
I’m am now able to offer a way to experience Sicilian
Page 9
Tailoring Strategies in Context
Figure 1: Overview of modern tailoring strategies
In order to discuss Sicilian tailoring in more depth, which are absent from my wardrobe. I also conducted
it is important to understand how it relates to the full primary and secondary research across a global sample
spectrum of masculine tailoring. To my knowledge, of tailors in North America, Asia and Europe resulting
this exercise has never been done before in a concise in numerous bespoke commissions and visits. This
yet systematic way. Without the proper context, one experience informed the creation and disposition of
might not fully grasp the unique style and value that Figures 1 and 2.
Sicilian tailors offer. Figure 1 maps out the universe of tailoring
Perhaps the most effective way to understand possibilities specified by two parameters: chest
Sicilian tailoring is visual. This means in juxtaposition treatment and shoulder treatment. The choice of these
with its taxonomic cousins in the tailoring world. two variables implies that they are pivotal in
Figure 1 categorizes and situates the majority of determining jacket shape and silhouette but not
tailoring strategies currently employed by Western exhaustive. Frameworks necessarily simplify raw,
tailors. I created and classified these strategies based on observable data and this rigorous streamlining allows
personally commissioning bespoke garments from at useful organizing ideas and principles to emerge.
least one tailor trained in nearly all of the strategies. The organizing idea here is that each bubble or
The exceptions are the Milanese and Continental, ellipse represents the central tendency of each tailoring
Page 10

strategy in relation to its neighbors while also allowing than proclaims the shoulder line. But you can deviate
for a range of expressive variation. from this strategy if you wish to harness more structure
The size of the bubble suggests the range of or less for a specific bespoke commission.
flexibility in treating the chest or shoulder. Spatial The positioning of these various strategies should
position indicates the primary emphasis of the strategy, be treated as relational and changeable rather than as
whether it aims for softness or structure in the shoulder precise and static. In other words, the framework is a
or shape in the chest. work in progress as more tailors are sampled and
Bigger does not necessarily mean better but bubble tailoring strategies themselves evolve. It is likely that
size does confer individual bubbles
one distinct will be resized or
advantage. It positionally tweaked
indicates the over time.
relative range or A key benefit of this
flexibility of tailors framework is that it
using that allows us to imagine
particular strategy. and conceptualize
With the right men’s tailoring as a
Sicilian tailor(s), related and relative
you potentially are bundle of strategies.
able to play in In turn, I hope this
several sandboxes provides fresh
as shown in the insight and practical
chart rather than application for
just one. Sicilian consumers and
tailoring is the tailors alike.
rare tailoring In other words, I
strategy that has hope this framework
the capability to resets the bespoke
A key pillar in Sicilian tailoring - a softly structured shoulder
play natively or discussion from a
skillfully across several quadrants. two-horse race to a more open-ended and diverse
This ability to play off a dominant strategy offers conversation.
choice and variety for the wearer. For instance, I find There really have been only two standard bearers in
especially appealing the kind of Sicilian tailoring that the world of masculine tailoring, namely, English and
expresses a calm, residual structure, with the barest hint Italian tailoring. In the last few years this has boiled
needed to hold and frame the sleeve and chest. It’s also down specifically to structured Savile Row v.
the kind of structural minimalism that intimates rather deconstructed Naples. This duality has almost become
Page 11
Figure 2: Classification of tailors by tailoring strategies
a cliched opposition but it has nonetheless maintained (Figure 2) populating the bubbles with actual working
a powerful and magnetic hold over many of us. tailors and tailoring houses. Similar to the tailoring
Perhaps this binary pull was inevitable. Unless one strategies in Figure 1, the position of each individual
commands virtually unlimited leisure time, financial tailor in Figure 2 is relational and changeable rather
resources and unwavering neutrality, bespoke tailoring than static and precise.
often defaults to an either/or game of tribal identity. But Since Figure 2 is essentially a rough draft, I
this bipolarity can be played out to the extreme, hesitated to include it here. Nonetheless, I believe it
limiting the imagination. This leads to a loss of would be useful to share this chart and iterate it with
curiosity and experimentation. reader feedback. If you have experience owning and
I also think a binary division of tailoring is not wearing garments from multiple tailors in different
particularly representative of reality. My hope is that tailoring strategies, please contact me. I am
the 2x2 matrix encourages you to experiment and contemplating holding a focus group or workshop to
explore sartorial strategies rather than hunker down in refine the chart.
one corner or the other. Both Figures 1 and 2 will be covered in more detail
The next logical step is to create a follow-on chart in a separate monograph on masculine style whose
Page 12

working title is Sartorial Personae: Understanding common frame of reference and are left to their own
Masculine Style. It will define each tailoring strategy devices.
and possibly include other strategies such as the In menswear, we tend to produce and consume
Florentine and Viennese approaches as well as the very personal, subjective works or largely historical
Ivy League look. The latter’s iconic sack suit with its works of style, many of which are still essential
natural shoulders and undarted chest would sit reading. Yet we see few examples that blend the two
somewhere in the lower left quadrant. and even fewer that offer a coherent framework to
More importantly, this monograph will navigate from one level of exposition and analysis to
introduce an entirely new the other (i.e. micro to macro
framework on masculine or vice versa).
style which I have been With Sartorial Personae I
working on for a few hope to offer a novel
years. The idea is to offer a approach to men’s style
systematic and concise blending social science and
overview of masculine cultural analysis. The aim is
style. threefold: (1) be analytically
The impetus for this insightful (2) historically
new project reflects my informed and (3) practically
specific interests in useful. My aim is to play in
menswear. To my all three and switch
knowledge, no one has coherently from these
really shown much disparate points of view.
interest or paid attention On the one hand, this means
to a particular white going broader in scope and
space, namely, proffering a providing a systematic,
conceptually rigorous yet comprehensive perspective
practical perspective on on what looks to be a woolly,
masculine style. In short, highly subjective and
we are lacking a user- A second pillar in Sicilian tailoring - a soft, clean and unstructured topic. On the
moderate chest
centric yet broadly other hand, this means
applicable framework of style. Tailors have a providing the kind of contextualized, unit-level
common framework in the form of cutting and analysis (i.e. at the individual level) that seems
pattern drafting systems (Thornton, Aloi, etc). lacking in the literature on menswear and masculine
Textile designers and engineers have their own style.
design and technical language. But end users lack a So what do I mean by context? Context is the
connective tissue that takes a subjective statement or
Page 13

claim and sets it up for broader validity and
applicability.
For instance, how do I construct a meaningful
narrative to discuss and compare my style to your
style or compare either of our styles to a group’s style
without devolving into an exchange of mere
opinion? Can such a multithreaded, multilevel
framework even exist? Would it add value and
increase our knowledge about masculine style?
Not surprisingly, my answer is affirmative to
both questions. Developing that affirmative response
is the principal concern of the forthcoming Sartorial
Personae.
Page 14
A Note on Sicilian Tailors
The Infantolino tailoring house. Photo credit: Media M Archive

The best short history of Sicilian tailoring in wearer's requirements under such conditions. But even
English is written by the Italian fashion writer Anna Mediterranean summers eventually end and the island
Battista on her Irenebrination blog. I refer you to her still undergoes a change of seasons. Although
write-up for the history and rich cast of characters that temperatures rarely drop below freezing, the colder
have shaped Sicilian tailoring in the last century. seasons can easily justify a jacket and additional
My own observations about contemporary Sicilian layering.
tailoring starts with the weather. The summer The Sicilian tailor’s vocabulary understands this
Mediterranean heat is a thing to behold and no wonder range of fall/winter and spring/summer seasonality. But
the tailors here are very adept and sensitive to the comparatively speaking Sicily has more in common
Page 15

with a two-season climate that oscillates between I asked for a manica camicia shoulder or at least as soft
warm(er) and mild(er). Thus, largely freed from the a shoulder and chest as possible. All the tailors
obscuring frame of an overcoat, the freestanding jacket delivered on the latter, and nearly all on the former.
becomes the center of attention for both tailor and In preparation, my translator contacted 40 Sicilian
customer. tailors, of whom 23 were still active at that point. Of
I suspect this ability to wear jackets on their own those 23, about 80 percent said they are able to make a
for much of the year has led to a streamlined, manica camicia shoulder. Of those 23 active in 2011,
climactically attuned only a handful are still
jacket shape. There is working in 2017.
perhaps no better place My travels in Sicily have
to develop a mildly exposed me to a range
sculptural (i.e. softly of personalities among
structured) approach to tailors. The first type is
tailored clothes. serious and even gruff,
Sicilian tailoring has rarely flashing a smile,
a distinct bias toward focused on the work of
lightness, movement his profession. A smile
and softness in requires some effort to
construction. Tailors produce. A second type
favor very light to no is garrulous to a fault
padding in the shoulder and generous with
but this is not rigidly sharing his world and
held dogma. Most accomplishments. A
tailors are conversant third type is infectiously
with Neapolitan ebullient about his
tailoring techniques – manica camicia in particular – as work. A final type is cordial and professional in
well as the traditional set-in shoulder. Stylistically, demeanor. Each is different and the reader will need to
trousers are slimmer than in the U.S. or U.K. with lower discover what personality he naturally gravitates
rises. Sleeves are generally trim and/or tapered. It is not toward.
unusual for a tailor to give considerable thought and Regarding communication, very few tailors use
consideration to the lay of the fabric on the skin, its email or messaging apps (or use them regularly). If you
touch and feel for the wearer. wish to communicate, the most reliable method is to
For my first set of commissions in 2011, I let the call or visit them. This obviously implies an ability to
tailors construct the jackets or suits as they normally communicate in written, verbal or visual form.
would but requested one feature from all the tailors to Communication of appointments is essential. For some
provide a basis of comparison. In particular, for jackets, tailors, it is especially important to confirm and
Page 16

reconfirm appointment times to make sure you are on when a native Sicilian speaker contacted tailors on my
good footing with them. behalf for basic information. In some situations, there
In terms of dealing with customer requests, Sicilian also may not be a set price consistently applied to all
tailors reflect a spectrum of flexibility. As a general rule, customers.
most tailors will execute softly structured tailoring as With that in mind, prices in this guide should be
the default but can operate within a flexible range of regarded as perishable until you confirm pricing when
that default. Even so, it would be unwise to initially you step foot into the shop. Please do not brandish this
demand a suit, jacket or guide in front of a tailor and
trousers significantly demand the exact price quoted
different from what a Sicilian therein. A better approach is
tailor would normally make understanding the price range for
for a customer. the tailor’s city and thinking
With that in mind, order about what you are willing to pay.
just one jacket or suit for By reading this guide, you will
your initial commission. understand what a reasonable
This is standard practice for range should look like.
working with any new tailor As a courtesy, I recommend
and of course should be informing the tailor or artisan
followed here. before you publish prices on one
Let’s also talk prices. of the online forums or share on
Quoted tailoring prices are social media. The tailor/artisan
current as of spring and may not be aware of the potential
summer 2017. Jacket and interest you are going to generate.
suit prices refer to cut-make- Zacco jacket (left); Arrigo jacket (right). Photo Consulting beforehand gives the
trim (CMT) in which the credit: Yasmine Soiffer artisan an opportunity to
customer supplies the cloth, consider pricing in future
except where noted. Prices may change over time and demand if he or she chooses.
should be verified with the tailor upon your visit. The rest is a matter of prudence. Please exercise it
I estimate CMT pricing has nearly doubled in the diligently so that the rest of us may be able to continue
last five years to an average of EUR 800 for a jacket. having a productive, working relationship with the
This is still excellent value compared to benchmarks in Sicilian tailors and artisans covered in this guide.
London and Naples. Simultaneously, I also see more For visual reference, I have included a side-by-side
segmentation in pricing with a shrinking lower end and comparison of two jackets from different tailors in
emerging higher end. Palermo and Messina. They illustrate the significant
Although pricing is becoming more transparent, amount of variation and flexibility one can achieve in
you may encounter a certain reluctance in discussing Sicilian tailoring on just a single dimension - shoulder
prices over the phone. Keep in mind this occurred even treatment. The Zacco jacket adds a few millimeters of
Page 17

extension and slightly more structure on each
shoulder while the Arrigo jacket squares up to the
shoulder edge. The visual difference is subtle but
striking.
Having said that, I would not say these single
snapshots rigidly define, or even presuppose the
existence of, a tailor’s “house style”. You may recall
my earlier statement on the Sicilian immunity to
monotone orthodoxy.
At one level, what you see here is indeed
suggestive of what each tailor can produce. But you
may also discover that Sicilian tailors are capable of
surprising flexibility given the right circumstances
with a trusted customer. Success is mostly a matter
of having a clear sense of what you're looking for and
communicating it both visually and verbally.
In short, the takeaway here is self-evident. If you
build a trusted relationship with your tailor, good
things will follow.
Page 18
Palermo
Palermo’s Cathedral (Duomo)
Palermo is the largest city in Sicily and, befitting Greeks (Panormus) and then the Arabs (Ballarme
its historical status and importance, it has ‫)بَ َل ْرم‬. You’ll have ample opportunity to enjoy the
commanded a good number of tailors. Their numbers sights, tastes and sounds of this fascinating city from
have receded over time but the remaining artisans are the smoky grills in the La Vucciria to the remarkable
superb representatives of their craft. Most of the Palatine Chapel and Arab-Norman Palace.
remaining tailors congregate near or around Via della The city has made tremendous strides since being
Libertà and Teatro Politeama. ground zero of intense civil strife just 25 years ago. As
I also noticed that the CMT option seems a touch a result, Palermo has rightfully attracted greater
less common than in Catania or Messina where CMT attention as a leading cultural destination. In early
seems to be the norm. This may be a non-issue, if you 2017, Palermo was named “Italian Capital of Culture”
have not accumulated an inventory of cloth, or a by the government, which would have been
disadvantage otherwise. unthinkable until recently. Last year UNESCO
Regardless of your tailoring preferences, Palermo recommended designating the historical center as a
demands further exploration. Founded in 734 B.C. by World Heritage Site.
the Phoenicians, the city was later renamed by the Palermo’s future looks brighter than ever.
Page 19
Palermo
Accommodations hotel scores four stars on and Giuseppe speaks basic
• B&B AlViavai (Via Emerico TripAdvisor and also offers a flat English.
Amari 65). A fine B&B offering rate car service from the airport Transportation
breakfast and located close to (EUR 50). • Getting to the airport. Taxi
Politeama. My last visit occurred • Palazzo Pantaleo (Via fares vary EUR 50 to 70. If you are
in April 2017 and the planning to take a taxi, I
owner was very helpful would recommend
in arranging for an taking your hotel's fixed
appointment with a price car service if
local tailor. available. The airport bus
• My Way (Corso (Prestia e Comande) is
Vittorio Emanuele 261, EUR 6.30 one-way and
Scala A). I last stayed stops at Teatro
here in July 2017. A Politeama. Buses leave
very convenient every half hour. Buy the
location on the ticket from the driver.
pedestrian-friendly Via • Buses to Messina and
Vittorio Emanuele. The Catania. A new bus ticket
Centro Historic bus office (biglieterra) has
stops right in front of been built in the central
the building. train station on the left as
• Hotel Plaza Opera you enter (follow the
(Via Nicolo Gallo 2). signs on the walkway).
My last visit was in Here you can purchase
2012 but the hotel tickets for regional and
continues to hold a intra-island destinations
four star rating on such as Messina (one-
TripAdvisor. Great Getting ready to eat in La Vucciria way EUR 14), Catania
location just off Teatro and Catania airport
Politeama and Via della Libertà. Ruggero Settimo 74). My last visit (one-way EUR 13.50).
Take advantage of the hotel's was 2012 but this simple but clean
• Navetta Arancione Centro
airport car service (flat rate of B&B run by Mr. Giuseppe Historico bus. This is a free hop-
EUR 50). Scaccianoce has held up over time on/hop-off bus that follows a
• Hotel Il Principe di (five stars on TripAdvisor). A light roughly circular route stopping at
Villafranca (Via G. Turrisi continental style breakfast is key attractions in the historic
Colonna 4). In 2012, I stayed in a included. Rooms start at EUR 100 center of Palermo including Porta
standard single (EUR 100). The
Page 20
Palermo
Felice, Ballaro market, offers lively open-air
Arab-Norman Palace, markets (e.g. Ballaro) and
Palatine Chapel, and small shops on pedestrian-
Teatro Massimo. friendly Via Vittorio
Dining Emanuele and Via
• Ristorante Pizzeria Maqueda.
Margo (Piazza San •Dell’Oglio (Via Ruggiero
Onofrio 3/4). In 2017 I Settimo 26). Men’s and
had an excellent meal women’s apparel store
consisting of a mixed carrying Cucinelli,
shellfish appetizer (clams, Church’s, Herno, Kiton,
oysters), pulcinella (pasta Moncler, Tom Ford and
with pumpkin cream, Woolrich.
Street book vendors on Via Vittorio Emanuele •Perricone (Piazza
pistachio and prawns)
and panna cotta. Sant'Oliva 37). Men’s
and a great place to get a light
• Pasticceria Cappello (Via snack or drink. Most of their apparel and footwear store just
Niccolò Garzilli 19). A well- off of Politeama carrying
pastries are sweet but they have
known Palermitan pasticceria Sebago, Barbour, Allegri and
savory snacks such as arancini
with a newer location near the (try the classic ragu) and the Gallo. The friendly owner
tailors covered in this guide. speaks English.
very tasty sfincione and
Try the classic brioche con sfincionetto. • Carteleria Amoroso (Via
gelato. Archimede 185). A stationary
• Pan X Focaccia (Via
shop selling writing
Isadora la Lumia 74). Great
instruments and accessories
panini sandwiches near the
tailor Zacco. (Mont Blanc, Faber Castell,
Waterman), leather goods.
• Other restaurants
Have a chat with Roberto who
recommended by locals are
Cambusone (near Teatro speaks English.
Massimo) and Lo Scudiero • La Casa del Souvenir (Via
Emerico Amari 54). Well-
(across the Teatro Politeama).
stocked shop with all the
Shopping
souvenirs and tchotchkes you’ll
Via della Libertà, which
Cassata at Cafe Spinnato ever need for family and
continues south as Via Ruggero
friends (T-shirts, ceramics in
• Cafe Spinnato (Via Settimo, is the primary retail
all shapes and sizes from
Principe di Belmonte 115). corridor for mainstream and
Caltagirone, and much more).
Another Palermo institution premium brands. Palermo also
Page 21
Palermo
Sartoria Davi
Via Parisi Enrico 9 • N/A
Tel +39 091 9824969
Cell +39 320 6211146 When I first visited six years ago, Guido’s father was
Email sartoriadaviguido@gmail.com still working in the back, cutting and making suits. His
father passed away in 2015 marking the end of a very
Vitals long and distinguished tailoring career.
• Estimated time for initial jacket: One week Since then, Guido has taken the lead in continuing
• Number of fittings: Two the family business. His brother Francesco works with
• Customer supplied cloth: Please inquire at the shop him and is currently a specialist in trouser making.
• Price (includes tailor’s cloth): Please inquire at the Focusing on trousers as a specialty has earned at least
shop one tailor a considerable global following (see Ambrosi
in Naples). I didn’t get a chance to see a sample of
Pros Francesco’s work but will do so on my next visit.
• Davi speaks English Davi is one of the few Sicilian tailors in recent times
• Can meet clients in London and Palermo to go outside of Sicily and Italy to build his tailoring
• Capable of at least three different shoulders business. In fact, he spent a few years in London
(traditional, manica camicia and manica mappina) running his own tailoring business before taking over
his father’s workshop. So he understands Savile Row
Cons and structured English tailoring quite well.
White tie formal dress

Page 22
Sartoria Davi
Jacket in Vitale Barberis Canonico hopsack commissioned by Sleevehead reader (left); my translator Lorenzo wearing a
cotton try-on jacket (right)
I also believe he may be the first new luxury As we chatted, he agreed with a point made in the
bespoke tailor to have emerged from Sicily in the last first edition of the guide about the defining
ten years. I distinguish him from Caponetto in Catania characteristics of Sicilian tailoring - weather and
who has had an international reputation for far longer fabrics. For him, the difference is all in the fabric. For
as he comes from an earlier generation. Given Davi's me, this is a likely reason why Sicilian tailors, unlike
success abroad, I imagine he will inspire a new breed of most tailors, are conversant with two very different
entrepreneurial tailors in Sicily. cutting and tailoring styles, classic and Neapolitan, and
On the commercial side, the business has grown are able to realize variations in between.
almost entirely through word of mouth. This appeals to In Guido’s case, he described making a jacket from
Guido since he prefers discretion and dislikes a 125g Super 150s jacketing from Scabal (less than five
advertising. Most of the clientele are international ounces!) for one particular client as well as a 150g
rather than local. fabric. This is an extraordinarily delicate fabric and the
Page 23
Sartoria Davi
lightest weight that I’ve heard a tailor work on. Not of shoulders: manica camicia (shirt-sleeve shoulder
surprisingly, he found the fabric fussy around the with seams closed and folded under toward the
seams as it tended to bubble slightly even after shoulder), manica mappina (manica camicia
repeated pressing. shoulder plus shirred
Given the sensitivity sleevehead, also called
of the yarn and fiber, it spallina scivolata) and the
takes extra skill and traditional set-in
patience to coax jackets shoulder.
out of ultra-lightweight Interestingly, he said it's
fabrics. It also tells you easier to make the
the kind of tailor Davi is mappina style since it
to take on such a requires less work to
request from a finish. Even so, the style
demanding client. remains quite popular
During my first visit because of its pleasing
in 2011, I learned that shape around the
the elder Davi trained in shoulder.
Palermo and got his All things considered,
training diploma in Davi is the natural, vetted
1953. He was part of the choice for the busy, well-
generation that arrived traveled client residing in
at the peak of bespoke Palermo, London or
demand in Sicily. Guido elsewhere. I sense he
noted that his father had works frequently with
15 tailors in the 1980s successful clients based
and made 25 suits per across Europe seeking
week. Times have discretion.
certainly changed. Of course, with that
The workshop is discretion, you also
located behind the inherit the assurance of a
sitting room for highly skilled bench tailor
customers. Each jacket Basted, try-on jacket capable of shaping and
requires 70 or 80 hours making the right jacket
of work. His workshop can make at least three types attuned to you and your lifestyle.
Page 24
Palermo
Sartoria Italiano
Via Parisi Enrico 38 • Friendly father and English-speaking son and
Tel +39 091 507 3091 multigenerational workshop
Website www.sartoriaitaliano.com • Can execute Milanese, Roman and Neapolitan cuts
Email italiano.sartoria@libero.it • Only sartoria in Palermo to offer Milanese
Hours Monday-Friday 8:30am-1:30pm, 3-6pm; buttonholes
Saturday 8:30am-1:30pm
Cons
Vitals • N/A
• Estimated time for initial jacket: Four days
• Number of fittings: Three The Italiano workshop occupies the former space of
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes Giuseppe Ferina who has retired and is profiled in the
• Price (CMT): Jacket EUR 900, pants EUR 300 appendix. The Italianos have inherited the comfortable
and accommodating interior space as well as the cloth
Pros inventory and patterns apparently.
• Accepts customer cloth
Street entrance to the sartoria
Page 25
Sartoria Italiano
I scheduled my meeting with Claudio and his Roman, Milanese and Neapolitan - housed in one
father a couple of months in advance via email. I workshop. Practically speaking, this means they are
reached out to them because a Sleevehead reader had familiar with three different jacket styles - Neapolitan,
contacted me and mentioned that a new tailor had Milanese and Roman. As with many Sicilian tailors, the
taken up the premises of Ferina’s old workshop. This two can cut and make a Neapolitan style jacket with the
reader described stopping by the shop and having a waterfall effect (scivolata), which is extra cloth gathered
very positive meeting. Given that initial report, I and shirred on the top of the sleeve.
naturally placed them on my list of tailors to visit. Keep in mind that many, if not most, tailors around
It turns out that Claudio’s father was a colleague of the world are trained in one cutting and tailoring style.
Ferina who worked together in Ferina’s old workshop. Sicilians normally can do a softly structured jacket
The elder Italiano studied pattern making and tailoring (classico) and a softer Neapolitan style but Claudio
in Milan while his son Claudio studied in Rome with adds another strategy to the overall toolbox.
the tailor Gallo. The father is 76 years old and started I pressed Claudio a bit for his opinion of the
sewing at the age of six. different cuts - Milanese, Roman and Neapolitan.
By teaming up they are able to offer an unusually When we met, he himself was wearing a terrific
comprehensive combination of cutting schools - Milanese style jacket - clean chest, lean sleeves, no
An array of women’s and men’s jackets
Page 26
Sartoria Italiano
shoulder padding and soft minimal interlining. In the
right hands, the Milanese style can yield a beautifully
cut and shaped jacket. Claudio prefers the Milanese
over the Roman which is a bit of a straighter silhouette
and less shaped. As a side benefit, our conversation
provided useful input into my framework of tailoring
strategies discussed earlier.
The Italianos mix hand-padding (chest canvas) and
machine-padding (collar canvas) of the internal
interlining. The benefit of hand-padding is arguably
marginal in the case of the collar. In turn, the Italianos
focus their efforts on producing a pleasing jacket shape
and offering distinctive finishing details.
Regarding the last point on details, the workshop is
able to sew Milanese style buttonholes. Enthusiasts will
find this detail among Italian and French tailors but it is
Author trying a customer’s nearly finished jacket close to my own size (top right); father and son cutting trousers (bottom)
Page 27
Sartoria Italiano
unique among Palermitan tailors and

quite likely among all Sicilian tailors.
The buttonhole I examined was
beautifully executed.
I thoroughly enjoyed my visit and,
of course, am very tempted to try this
sartoria in the near future (probably
their take on the Milanese cut or Basted jacket stage (left); Milanese buttonhole (top right); Claudio and his
perhaps even collaborate and create a father (bottom right)
Palermo cut).
Page 28
Palermo
Giuseppe Zacco
Via Daita Gaetano 51 • Customer supplied cloth: No
Tel +39 091 328471 • Price: Please inquire at the shop
Hours: Monday to Sunday 8am-1pm, 3pm-8pm; and
by appointment Pros
• Amiable, easy-going personality
Vitals • Convenient, central location
• Estimated time for initial jacket: One week • Offers a well-proportioned, trimmed down version
• Number of fittings: One to three (depends on of the Anderson & Sheppard look but can also
customer) produce a slimmer, leaner shape
Customer’s jacket at fitting stage
Page 29
Giuseppe Zacco
Cons
• Does not work with customer's cloth
• Does not speak English
Zacco is a rare find, the all-in-one tailor. In other

words, he cuts, makes and finishes each jacket and
pants. Like other tailors in the city, Zacco has lived
and trained outside of Sicily. He trained principally in
Milan and entered the Italian national tailoring
academy in 1986.
During a 2017 visit, he pulled out an old issue of
Vestire from the 1960s to show a couple of “golden
age” tailors he knew and/or trained with: Pietro and
Gaetano Traina and Giovanni La Parola.
Their influence has rubbed off on him. Zacco
spends much time and eye on the shape and
proportion of a jacket, what he calls the harmony and
geometry of the jacket and the body. He mentioned
that he draws sketches of the customer's body shape
when making a jacket. In my case, he noted my
relatively wide shoulders and my preference for Zacco wearing a terrific straw colored linen-silk jacket
slightly shorter sleeves.
I suppose every tailor deals with a range of body shop to show. In particular, I remember a Drapers
types but I know that Zacco is used to extreme Blazon Super 140s cloth with a fantastic hand and his
proportions. I saw a pair of trousers he was making for four new Carnet books including a book of lightweight
a client with a waist that must have been in excess of 50 210g cloths in hemp, silk and wool. His clients, he says,
inches. I also saw examples of a half-lined cotton jacket are demanding lighter and lighter cloths. His favorite
and a linen/silk jacket. Stylistically, Zacco seems to like cloth is actually cotton and I saw a heavier ridged
making 3 roll 2 button jackets. cotton he was making in a smart-looking jacket.
He does not offer CMT but the fabrics he carries Having worked in Milan, Zacco is well aware of the
are very good and top notch in the case of Drapers. prices up north, and he noted that a suit would cost at
Clearly, this is for clients who don't mind working only least EUR 3,000 in Milan. Not surprisingly he has
with tailor's cloth (or ordering from books). He carries clients who turn to him after receiving sticker shock
Drapers, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Dormeuil and when they visit Brioni and Battistoni in Rome.
Carnet, and has plenty of nice Drapers cloth bolts in his
Page 30
Giuseppe Zacco
During my initial visit in 2011, I decided to order a wrapping in a damp cloth to set it, and indicated he was
lightweight medium blue blazer in a Drapers high twist going to do the same for my Drapers cloth.
Super 130s. Since he emphasized the softness of his I ended up having two fittings within a week (the
construction, I let him decide the kind of shoulder to first fitting occurred the day after my initial visit) and
make. It turned out to be a traditional set-in shoulder picked up the jacket on the third visit in a separate trip.
but made very soft and pliable. In my first fitting with Zacco, the basted jacket came
As part of the measurement process I tried on a with one sleeve attached. The length looked good and I
customer's coat in a similar size. Zacco took just a felt there was good ease in the arms. I didn't feel there
handful of measurements (literally just four or five) were any major adjustments to make. Interestingly, he
including arm length and chest. He also showed me a had also prepared shoulder pads which he put
length of cloth he was sponging or more accurately underneath after I had slipped on the basted jacket. But
Front and shoulder views of author’s blazer commissioned in 2011
Page 31
Giuseppe Zacco
we both agreed to keep things as soft and natural as Sheppard. It has a couple of features similar to the A&S
possible. suit jacket but in greater moderation.
During my second fitting, I thought the try-on The jacket shoulder is just a touch extended and
jacket looked great, in particular the shape, but also the less extended than my A&S. There is also extra fullness
length and sleeve pitch. He also made an adjustment at the back of the sleeve, where the sleeve seam meets
with the shoulder and collar. the armscye. This faint gathering of the cloth in the
This has become one of my favorite jackets, striking back is pronounced on my A&S but moderated on my
the right balance between ease of movement and visual Zacco jacket.
appeal. I've worn the blazer many times and the jacket As a whole, the jacket sleeves are cut fuller than my
reminds me of a trimmer, cleaner Anderson & other Sicilian-made jackets. If they are tapered, they
taper just slightly.
Zacco preparing jacket for the first fitting (la prima prova)
Page 32
Giuseppe Zacco
The other interesting detail is that the hem of the
jacket between the double vents extends slightly
(about one centimeter) below the rest of the jacket
similar to the back hem of a polo shirt. This lends the
jacket a sportier look when the wearer is in motion.
And I have to say that it has grown on me.
As a tailor’s tailor, Zacco certainly merits a serious
look if you are in Palermo. Even more so if you prefer
dealing with a single artisan who is responsible for
each jacket from the first sketch and measurement to
the last stitch.
Basted jacket for a customer (lower left); hand-padding a

chest canvas (upper right)
Page 33
Annex: Palermo Tailors

Sartoria Crimi Sartoria Francesco Cafarelli
Via Benedetto Civiletti 11 Via Vittorio Emanuele 360
Tel +39 091323308 Tel +39 091 329284
Email sartoriacrimi@virgilio.it
Web www.sartoriacrimi.com
Based on social media presence and overall

coverage, Crimi is probably the most well-known
Sicilian tailor today. The only other contender would be
Caponetto in Catania whose reputation has long been
established in Italy and overseas.
From the photos I’ve seen, Crimi shows that
characteristic flexibility of Sicilian tailors, blending
structure with softness, and enhanced by an excellent
level of finishing. The result is a subtly shaped jacket
with a touch of personality in the secondary lines of a
jacket, namely, the shape of the lapel and lapel notch.
The workshop has developed an international
following, especially in Japan, and has been covered in
Western and Asian media such as Gentleman and
Men’s Ex. Given limited time in my travel itinerary, I
unfortunately was not able to add a full profile of them
in this edition.
However, it would be an oversight not to mention Situated on the busy pedestrian zoned street of Via
them and at least include a brief write-up. For more Vittorio Emanuele, this sartoria makes civilian and
information, you can visit their website or the write-up military clothes. I did not have time for a proper visit
by the Bespoke Dudes. but am including it for future reference.
In the meantime, Crimi is certainly on my radar
and I plan to stop by on my next trip to Palermo.
Page 34
Catania
Piazza Duomo
This Sicilian city owes its origins to a Greek youthful demographic and homegrown designers like
colony named Κατάνη (or 'Katánē). Katane in Marella Ferrera. You'll find both near or on Via Etnea,
Sicilian has a number of sharp meanings including the main retail street in the city, as well as Corso
flaying knife or sharp stones. Italia. You’ll also find a lively open-air street market at
The city is well-named as there is a certain edge Piazza Carlo Alberto, which is easily accessible from
and toughness to the city. Perhaps in honorific Via Etnea.
deference to Mt. Etna, the streets here are paved in In the world of men's clothing, the city can also
volcanic lava, providing a startling contrast to the stake a claim in Sicily's sartorial legacy. Arguably, the
ornate richness of the Baroque architecture erected most storied name in modern Sicilian tailoring –
above the streets. This effect is magnified even more Giuseppe Risicato – set up shop here in Catania. His
during rainfall or shortly thereafter. impact lingers on today as his successors make their
Perhaps this sense of being always on edge has mark on Catanese tailoring. Amazingly, his
helped Catania to emerge as a fulcrum for fashion contemporary Caponetto is still active as of summer
and the arts within Sicily. For one thing, the city can 2017.
claim noted opera composer Vincenzo Bellini as one Catania regularly records some of the hottest
of its own. And Catania continues today to have a summer temperatures in Sicily. So dress and pack
reputation for fashion, perhaps owing to a mix of a appropriately if you’re visiting in July or August!
Page 35
Catania
Hotels front desk. The smaller standard • Radio Taxi Catania (Tel +39
• NH Catania Centro (Via rooms may not have a bathtub. 095 330966). Flat rate of EUR 20
Guglielmo Oberdan 143). Very The suites are roomy and a good from the city to the airport. Call
good hotel with a tasty American value. and ask for the flat rate.
and Continental breakfast. Five • B&B Cianciana (Via Giuseppe • Freelance drivers at train
minute walk to Palmisciano. di Stefano 7). Danilo is the very station. Negotiate the fare before
• UNA Palace Hotel (Via Etnea hospitable and friendly owner of getting into their car. For the
218). Excellent hotel and certainly this B&B located near the SAIS airport you can use the flat rate
in the top tier of hotels in the city. bus and train stations. Great taxi fee of EUR 20 as a
Rooms come with a bathtub not breakfast. benchmark.
just a shower stall. Very good Transportation and logistics • Alibus airport shuttle (EUR
breakfast buffet. Optional • SAIS bus from Catania to: 4). Spotty service. They
translator service – EUR 100 for Messina (one way EUR 8.40) and supposedly run every 20 minutes
the first 90 min, EUR 50 for each Palermo (one way EUR 13.50) but I waited 30 minutes once and
additional hour. • SAIS bus from Catania airport ended up taking a freelance driver
• Hotel Il Principe (Via Alessi to Messina (one way EUR 9.30) to catch a flight.
24). Very friendly and helpful
Dining al fresco at Cafe Spinella on Via Etnea
Page 36
Catania
Dining • Calabro (Via Umberto

• Pasticceria Spinella (Via I 115 and Corso Italia
Etnea 292/298). Popular and 134). Two menswear
central spot for a quick snack locations. Via Umberto is
or drink; also popular is Savia the larger store and carries
next door. RTW sportswear and
• American Bar and tailored clothing
Restaurant. This is the rooftop (Peuterey, Armani,
bar and restaurant in the UNA Hetrego).
Palace Hotel. Great views of • Giuseppe Battiato (Via
Mt. Etna and the restaurant has Penninello 9, tel +39 347
Accordion player at Piazza Duomo (top);
an excellent dinner menu and 478053). I found this
Battiato women’s bespoke shoes (bottom)
happy hour. bespoke shoemaker of
• Fud Off (Via Santa environment on two main women’s shoes while
Filomena 28). Trendy spot for streets, Via Etnea and Corso searching for men’s. Prices
Sicilian-style tapas. Italia. Via Etnea has more start at EUR 100-130.
mainstream brands while Corso Turnaround time is 20
Shopping
Italia favors smaller boutiques. days.
Catania offers a lively retail
Page 37
Catania
Sebastiano (“Nello”) Caponetto
Corso Sicilia 71 Pros
Tel +39 095 322 565 • Distinct bespoke cut and product compared to his
peers – a Sicilian take on pre-1990s Anderson &
Vitals Sheppard
• Estimated time for initial jacket: One week • Friendly and welcoming
• Number of fittings: Two • Has taken on a new apprentice
• Customer supplied cloth: No
• Price (includes tailor’s cloth): Please inquire at the Cons
shop • Does not speak English
Sample jackets - note the lack of chest darts, the healthy lapel roll and “kissing” sleeve buttons
Page 38
Sebastiano Caponetto
Caponetto at his work table
During my summer 2017 visit to Sicily, I was Caponetto worked and trained in Milan for 20
unable to schedule an appointment at the workshop. years and, similar to several other tailors I met, he
However, I learned from other tailors that Caponetto is makes both men and women's clothing. He mentioned
still active. Furthermore, I gleaned through the that his team of tailors in the shop have worked with
tailoring grapevine that Caponetto has taken on a him for quite awhile, in some cases more than 25 years.
young Japanese apprentice. His continued activity is Given his extensive work experience in Milan, his
remarkable given his advanced age (90 years). sartorial inspirations are perhaps more far-flung than
Apparently he even travels to Taormina to meet clients his compatriots. He loves English fabrics and thinks
for measurements and fittings. they're the best, which might make him a bit of a black
Caponetto is unquestionably the elder statesman of sheep (so to speak) among his peers. Like many tailors
Sicilian tailoring today. He also has the most expansive in Sicily, he can make both the traditional shoulder
and well-furnished shop in Catania and probably in (classico) and manica camicia.
Sicily. Given his experience, I was not surprised to learn Unusually, Caponetto said his tailoring approach
he is a consummate raconteur and what he has to share was inspired by Savile Row and English tailoring. He is
is naturally interesting. different in that he does not add chest darts (or pince)
Page 39
Sebastiano Caponetto
An array of cloths in the workshop where English fabrics are favored
to his jackets which most tailors add. I examined his continental Europe and the U.S., which may also help
sample jackets sitting on the tailor forms and confirmed to explain the different levels of his pricing.
his claim – no chest darts. And the samples did look I found the Anglo-Sicilian fusion in his tailoring to
superb. Perhaps his calling card is that he is the be fascinating. At the time, he did not accept
Anderson & Sheppard of Catanese tailoring. customer's cloth, which was my personal focus. If you
Caponetto took me on a quick tour of the cutting visit, it’s worth checking if this has changed recently.
room and the details of his workmanship – the lack of If budget is not an issue, plan a visit and enjoy the
chest darts, the welted edges with pick stitching pleasure of commissioning an irreplaceable piece of
(puntino), horn buttons and blunted lapel edges. Given Sicilian sartorial history. Along with Nunzio Zocco in
what I saw, I think he could make a superb Ivy League Syracuse, Caponetto is the last of the “golden age” of
sack suit. Sicilian tailors still working today.
He enjoys a fairly substantial foreign clientele from
Page 40
Catania
Vittorio Palmisciano
Via Giuseppe Aurelio Costanzo 26 can’t think of a higher compliment in a trade full of
Cell +39 347 972 1489 hard-working artisans.
In terms of pure value, I believe he is an exceptional
Vitals option in Sicily. His value has remained consistent
• Estimated time for initial jacket: Ten days along with his prices. In keeping with his personality,
• Number of fittings: Two he is reluctant to significantly raise prices. Frankly, as a
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes commercial matter, I think he would be more than
• Price (CMT): Jacket EUR 550 and pants EUR 150 justified in raising them.
• Hours: Call to make an appointment. For each Palmisciano hails from central Sicily near Enna but
fitting, be sure to call one week in advance to confirm has set up shop in Catania. He also takes his work very
the time and again one day before the appointment. seriously. Indeed, I suspect that he is the type who
A simple “Hello, this is [your name] from [your
country]. I will see you again on [month, date] at
[time]. For example: “Buon giorno. Sono
l’americano John Smith. Ci vediamo il 26 luglio alle
due”.
Pros
• Superb, consistent fit and finish
• Good instincts in filling in the appropriate details
needed to complete a commission
Cons
• Requires two confirmation calls (one week and one
day before) for each appointment or fitting
Whenever I’m in Catania, I drop by Signor

Palmisciano during business hours and he is without
fail in his workshop working on the latest commission.
Having been a customer for more than six years, I have
found him very consistent in attitude and delivery.
Simply put, he will strive to do his very best to deliver. I Author’s silk-linen jacket
Page 41
doesn't suffer fools gladly. So probably not the type who two features. I left a length of Breanish Tweed Shetland
would welcome a foreign customer micro-managing jacketing at his workshop. He was quite busy the week I
him or his workshop. visited and was not able to squeeze in a first fitting later
However, the good news is that he does not need that week.
micro-managing. In particular, he is well-versed with In the end, I had two fittings with Palmisciano. At
the Neapolitan style, which he takes as the inspiration the first fitting, I tried on just the basted jacket body
for his cutting style. He can execute the hallmarks of without any of the sleeves. At the second and final
that school – the spallina scivolata (waterfall effect) and fitting, the jacket was complete except for the manica
manica camicia. In fact, my initial order included those camicia with scivolata. I was pleased to see that he
Palmisciano standing next to author’s finished silk-linen jacket
Page 42
added the welted edge around the lapel and patch
pockets. The welting is subtle due to the weight and
loft of the Shetland wool.
When I picked up my Breanish Shetland jacket, I
was very pleased. Regardless of the price, it is
beautiful work and fit superbly. Having said that, I
should note that the comparison is perhaps a bit
unfair since the other tailors worked with lighter,
more delicate cloth. The heavier Shetland tweed is
probably more forgiving to work with.
On the spectrum of “sculptedness” (or closeness of

the jacket to the body), Palmisciano lies in between
Arrigo (very sculpted) and Zacco (less sculpted).
As I reflect on my other experiences, I think I
probably communicated the least with Palmisciano of
all the tailors I worked with in Sicily. I mean this in a
good way. Essentially, I handed over the Breanish
cloth and made three simple requests: patch pockets,
manica camicia and scivolata. That was pretty much
the extent of it. It was a straightforward process with a
straightforward fellow, which I liked.
I believe he works best with a certain type of
clientele, namely, clients who appreciate what he does
and leave him space to do what he does best. As he
told me himself, this is his life's work and passion.
A final note. Be sure again to confirm each
appointment you have with him. There is a very good
reason for this. Since he doesn't live in Catania, he
needs to commute daily from a small town nearby.
Customer’s nearly completed jacket (left); author’s birdseye
suit in superb Halstead cloth (right)
Page 43
Catania
Sebastiano Savoca
Via Eugenio Barsanti 18 • Transparent pricing
Cell +39 36 790197 • Exceptional value assuming his more structured
approach, jacket details and style are an agreeable
Vitals starting point
• Estimated time for initial jacket: Up to two weeks • More familiar construction and styling to American
(depends on workload) and overseas customers
• Number of fittings: Two
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes Cons
• Price (CMT): Please inquire at the shop. Pricing • Does not speak English
indicated in the photo dates from 2011.
Fact-checking and proofreading are a normal part
Pros of the writing process. It was during the last week of
Savoca with sample customer jacket (left); author’s jacket at first fitting (right)
Page 44
Sebastiano Savoca
that process for this second edition that a serious error contrast to the other tailors, Savoca appears to do a
was averted. Since I had been unable to reach Signor traditional straight (or dritta) shoulder with padding.
Savoca on his updated phone number, I assumed he For cloth, he carries Vitale Barberis Canonico,
was retired and was planning to relegate the profile to Caccioppoli and Loro Piana.
the Appendix. With Savoca, it boils down to liking his style and
That would have been entirely premature. The good construction. Given his price point, I think the proper
news is Savoca is still active and working. With the very response is to appreciate Savoca for what he does,
timely help of a Sleevehead reader who spoke with him which is to make a no-nonsense suit or jacket perfectly
in August 2017, I can confirm his new address and at home in any business setting. If you are particular
phone number listed in the about the shape of the lapel and
profile. I suspect his cell phone open jacket fronts (which has a
service blocks or does not bit of a cult following on the
accept international phone forums), you should examine
calls, which is something to be the photos and visit to see if
mindful of when contacting you like what he makes. If you
him. decide to go with Savoca, it's
When I visited in 2011, important to know that he likes
Savoca offered the lowest to make his jackets in certain
bespoke pricing I encountered ways, which I detail below.
in Sicily. My guess is that his Savoca's styling is well-suited
prices continue to be affordable for conservative business dress,
but of course it is best to as he largely tones down any
inquire at the shop. In his old Neapolitan influences. For
location, the prices for CMT instance, the gorge on the suit
and alterations were posted on jacket Savoca made for me was
the wall. He was the only tailor a bit lower than on my other
I met in Sicily who did this and Price list from July 2011 Sicilian jackets. However,
I wouldn’t be surprised if he similar to other Sicilian
continues this admirable practice. If transparent and trousers I have seen and have had made, his trousers
consistent pricing is paramount, Savoca is worth a visit. were fairly narrow and featured a fairly low rise, lower
Originally from Enna, in the interior of Sicily, than the Savile Row or American MTM and bespoke
Savoca moved to Catania and learned the craft here. trousers I have.
When we talked about his training, he mentioned that For my initial order, I decided to do a three-piece
the first tailor he worked for ended up moving to the suit made of a Scabal glenplaid suiting from the Vivaldi
U.S. He also added that he thinks the best tailors are Four Seasons book. Similar to other tailors, I had two
from the south, meaning Rome, Naples and Sicily. In fittings. In my initial meeting, I originally requested a 3
Page 45
Sebastiano Savoca
Front and shoulder views of author’s suit jacket (left, right)

roll 2 button closure but Savoca doesn't like making At the second fitting, the jacket was essentially
those so I went with a conventional two button closure. finished and I had my try-on of the trousers which
I also requested a Daks trouser waistband rather than were low rise and close fitting. Apart from the usual
conventional belt loops, which he was fine with. adjustments in length, I asked for more room in the
At the first fitting, I left a EUR 150 deposit as seat.
requested. The basted jacket had one attached sleeve When I picked up the suit, I was pleased with this
and looked fine to my eye. It was a bit less waisted and sporty glenplaid suit. At the first try-on, I had asked for
shaped than my other Sicilian jackets. Also unlike my a soft shoulder and he did remove much of the
other jackets, there was a healthy bit of shoulder padding. However, I noticed the buttonholes were not
padding. For the final jacket, I requested the least cut through and made into working buttonholes, and
amount of padding as possible and left it up to Savoca the waterfall sleevehead was absent because of the
to determine how much to take out. I also requested a traditional shoulder construction.
spallina scivolata if possible. I learned afterwards that working buttonholes (or
Page 46
Sebastiano Savoca
con asole aperti) are an optional feature that can be
requested for an extra fee. So you'll need to remember
to ask for them upfront if you place an order.
Additional views of author’s suit
Page 47
Catania
Sartoria Scavone
Viale XX Settembre 51-51/a
Tel +39 095 447284 Cons
Mobile +39 340 8222134 • Does not speak English
Vitals Thankfully the sartorial gods were smiling when I

• Estimated time for initial suit: One week rang the bell one day just before shops close for the
• Number of fittings: Two to three early afternoon. I had only recently learned about
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes Scavone through a contact and did not have time to
• Price (CMT): Suit EUR 1,000 schedule an appointment.
• Hours: Monday-Saturday 7am-6:30pm The curtains were drawn but Signor Scavone
answered the door. I quickly explained in
Pros grammatically challenged Italian that I was interested
• Highly experienced tailor in learning more about his workshop and mentioned
• Superb finishing details (i.e. pick stitching) my book. He let me into his sartoria and I began to
explain my
interest in Sicilian
tailoring and the
resulting odyssey
that led to the
publication of a
guidebook.
We were standing
in a comfortably
furnished sitting
room and I felt
immediately at
ease. I later
learned that
Scavone has been
operating in this
location
continuously for
nearly 55 years -
Awning over the entrance of the workshop (left); basted jacket under construction (right)
Page 48
Sartoria Scavone
an astonishing run. was 11 years old and looks fit

As he browsed through the and healthy at 72 years. In terms
book, he stopped at the photo of training, he learned the
showing the Infantolino Ruggieri cutting system
tailoring family (p. 15). He was (Milanese) and if I understood
actually the first tailor I met who correctly he is mostly self-
recognized the name. He also taught. A quick glance around
knows the brother of retired showed a Drapers book on the
tailor Giuseppe Ferina featured table and in-stock cloths and
in the first edition as well as one cloths from Caccioppoli.
of the currently featured Messina Like his compatriots, he makes a
tailors. My takeaway is that he softly structured jacket. I also
knows his tailoring history and saw a number of basted jackets
his contemporaries across Sicily. in queue for production. Neither
He started sewing when he observation is especially
Sewing a tunic collar to the body (top);
jacket placed on a form (bottom)
Page 49
Sartoria Scavone
surprising. He looks to have a healthy base of

local clientele which I suspect will expand to
include overseas clients once the word spreads.
I later saw one nearly finished jacket up
close. The jacket I saw had extremely clean and
neat pick stitching (puntino) along the lapels
and pocket edges - among the best I’ve seen in
Sicily.
While I was there, he offered to baste
together the tunic collar of a mandarin or Nehru
style jacket as a demonstration, which I captured
in a short clip.
One last detail. When he told me his
working hours and his early start, it was obvious
his work is central to him. Had I enough time,
cloth and funds, I would be happy to drop off a
length of cloth with Scavone and start thinking Row of customer jackets in production (top); very fine pick
stitching along the patch pocket and lapel (bottom)
about the kind of jacket he could make for me.
Page 50
Annex: Catania Tailors

Sartoria Randazzo
Via Santa Filomena 4/6/8
Tel +39 095 312221
Estimated time for initial jacket: Ten days
Fittings (CMT): One to two fittings
Bespoke (CMT): Please inquire at the shop
Hours: Monday-Friday 9am-1pm, 4pm-8pm;
Saturday 4pm-8pm
I chanced upon Randazzo on a random stroll

through Catania. The workshop is located in a
pedestrian-friendly part of Catania on a lively side
street running parallel to Via Etnea. Before or after
your visit to this sartoria, you’ll have plenty of
opportunity to sit down nearby for a snack, espresso or
a leisurely meal.
The workshop is run by the father Salvatore with
his son Vito and was originally opened by Salvatore’s
father in 1926. The family hails from a town near
Palermo. Salvatore is the head tailor who takes care of
Entrance of the workshop (left); sample jacket (right)
the pattern making while his son sews and makes

jackets but does not draft patterns. I also observed an
older coworker in the workshop who helps with jacket
construction.
Video game designers often embed what are called
“Easter eggs” in their games. These are hidden
bonuses, puzzles or rewards for enthusiasts to discover
in the storyline of a game. Hint: treat this as one of the
guide’s Easter eggs.
Page 51
Messina
Messina’s Duomo and Bell Tower (left); Opera house Teatro

Vittorio Emanuele (right)
people live and go about their lives. Some of this, I

speculate, has rubbed off on the tailors.
In other words, don’t let the apparent quietness of
Messina deceive you since it is brimming with sartorial
talent. As I was criss-crossing Sicily, I was impressed by
Messina’s relative abundance of tailors even though it is
Messina is a city on a quieter and smaller scale than smaller than the other two cities covered so far. I also
Palermo and Catania and is typically overlooked by found the Messinean tailors to be friendly and
tourists and cruise passengers hurrying to Taormina easygoing as a whole and there are probably very good
and other parts of Sicily. The city is perhaps most well- reasons for that.
known for its commercial port and being the gateway Nearly all the Sicilian tailors I met were welcoming
to southern Italy. when I visited. Yet as a group I have to say I found the
Like Catania, it was founded by Greek colonists and Messinean tailors to possess an especially appealing
subsequently named Messene. Its ancient history may combination of approachability, friendliness, skill and
not be immediately obvious because the modern era value. When one is the third wheel compared to
has not been kind. The city has been devastated by Palermo or Catania, the proper response I suppose is
multiple earthquakes, most recently in 1908, then razed simple – work harder.
by Allied bombing in World War II and rebuilt in the Finally, Messina is unique in offering an ecosystem
postwar years. of tailors and their cloth and trimmings suppliers
I feel the history of the city lives on, depositing an conveniently located within a few blocks of each other
air of quietness to the city that is not found in Catania (see Sourcing Your Cloth).
for instance. And a kind of humility in the way the
Page 52
Messina
Hotels Taormina, which offers the best your left. One-way tickets on the
• Garibaldi R&B (Via Giuseppe hotels in Sicily (with matching Messina-Catania route cost EUR
Garibaldi 108). I stayed here in prices of course), and drive or 8.40; Messina-Palermo (EUR 14)
April 2017. Clean, modern rooms take a bus/taxi to Messina for and Messina-Catania airport
with a terrific breakfast in a room fittings. This option scores high (EUR 9.30).
overlooking the Strait of Messina. on the wife/girlfriend acceptance • Radio Taxi Messina (tel +39
Near the tram stop Palazzo Reale factor if your significant other is 090 6505). Smartphone app also
and train station. available.
• Cairoli Guest • Messina tram. Buy
House (Via a one-way ticket
XXVII Luglio (EUR 1.20) at any
34). My most tabacchi. Easiest
recent stay was way to reach
July 2017. Clean, Macchia from
modern downtown. There
accommodations are three
just steps away downtown stops
from the Piazza along Viale San
Cairoli tram stop Marino at Piazza
and most of the Cairoli, San Marino
tailors and Camiciotti and San
shopping scene. Marino Trieste.
Alice and Messina street style •Bus 79. This goes
Francesca are the all the way to Torre
taking part in the trip.
very helpful and hospitable Faro, the easternmost tip of Sicily.
owners. Great option if you’re on a Transportation and logistics You can catch the bus on the
• Deposito bagagli (luggage
budget. corner of Via I September and Via
storage) at the train station and
• Messina 41 Guest House Paolo Savoca, a short walk away
the SAIS office. This is a useful
(Viale Boccetta 41/A). I stayed from the train station.
option if you're just passing
here a few nights in April 2017. Dining
through for your fittings. The
This is a nice, clean option if you There are numerous casual
train station office is closed
don’t mind a 15 minute walk from gelateria and pasticceria near the
weekends and early on weekdays
most of the tailors. Also near the main retail corridor on Viale San
at 6pm.
tram stop Boccetta. Martino, and more formal
• SAIS bus stop and ticketing
• Taormina hotels. Another restaurants within easy walking
office. As you exit the train
option is to stay in nearby scenic distance.
station, the bus stop/office is on
Page 53
Messina
• Pasticceria Manara (Via stores (Coin), jewelry stores and • Anna Dieli (Via Nicola
Centonze 159 at Via Luciano men's retail on the side streets. Fabrizi 56). Men’s and women’s
Manara). They serve up a terrific • Jannello (Piazza Cairoli apparel (Fay outerwear).
granita, which is • Chirico Uomo (Via dei
similar to sorbet with Mille 68-70).
freshly sliced fruit, Contemporary men’s
and freshly squeezed sportswear and streetwear,
juices (spremute). women’s shop down the
Perfect for a hot street.
summer day. Close to •Bottega Sicula (Via dei
Arrigo. Mille 184). Excellent
• Pasticceria artisanal ceramics shop
Ragusa (Via E.L. with pieces from three
Pellegrino 90). Tasty different regions of Sicily.
Sicilian sweets and Translation
pastries. Pick up a If you need a translator, I
tray of their terrific can recommend Mary, a
marrone glace university student
(glazed chestnuts). studying modern
• Pasticceria del languages. She returns to
Duomo (Via I Messina every summer,
Settembre 154). Christmas and Easter. Her
Excellent dolci di rate is EUR 7 per hour and
mandorla (almond can be reached at
paste cookies) and maryfound96@gmail.com.
cannoli near the Shipping services
Duomo. •Sicilia Post (Via XXIV
• Trattoria Al Maggio 35/A, tel +39 090
Padrino (Via Santa Church of the Santissima Annunziata dei Catalani 9146035, email
Cecilia 54-56). This (foreground); Church of Santa Maria di Montalto (left); Bell
info@siciliapost.it). Offers
Tower next to the Duomo (right)
casual trattoria is Raccomandata shipping.
near the tailor Cinturrino. 19/20). Men’s store carrying • Postaexpress (Via XXVII
Shopping Church's shoes, Herno outerwear Luglio 118, tel +39 090 6017255).
The main retail corridor is Viale and Marinella ties. Also offers Also offers Raccomandata
San Martino with many women's made-to-measure suits (Eidos), shipping.
clothing boutiques, department shirts (Charly, Delsiena) and ties
(Calabrese Napoli).
Page 54
Messina
Giuseppe (“Pippo”) Arrigo
Via Centonze 135 • Cuts a wonderfully shaped, contemporary-looking
Tel +39 090 718 147 jacket (think a sports coat that pairs well with fitted
Hours: Monday to Saturday 9am-1pm, 4pm-8pm jeans)
• Stylish details and aesthetic touches such as the
Vitals shape and curve of the collar, angle of the peak
• Estimated time for initial jacket: One week lapels, and shape of the barca breast pocket
• Number of fittings: One to three
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes Cons
• Price (CMT): Jacket EUR 800, pants EUR 300, three • Does not speak English
piece suit with vest EUR 1,400
Arrigo was the first tailor I met in Messina and I
Pros immediately liked what I saw in his workshop, namely,
a lineup of beautifully shaped jackets either finished or
3 roll 2 button jacket (left); Arrigo at his worktable (right)
Page 55
Giuseppe Arrigo
in progress. “Great tailors are made by having great to make a 3 roll 2 button sports coat with manica
customers," Arrigo said to me on one of my subsequent camicia shoulder. The jacket is fully lined and features a
visits. It's an insightful quote and reflective of the kind boat-shaped (or barca) breast pocket. Arrigo took
of tailor he is. seven measurements and
With the help of my wrote them down in his
translator, I found out that notebook.
he trained on the Rocco Aloi At my first fitting, I tried on
cutting system and that it the basted jacket which had
only took him six months to one attached sleeve. It
learn the system. Until looked very good overall.
recently, he worked with a Arrigo suggested shortening
fellow tailor (Arena) of the the length by two
Risicato and Caponetto centimeters, which I agreed.
generation. Another very He checked the shoulder and
good sign – Arrigo began noted the high armholes. He
sewing at the age of seven. also showed my paper
If credentials matter, pattern which he charmingly
then you should know he asked me to sign.
won the Forbici d'Oro During my second and final
(Golden Shears) in 2008, fitting, I tried on a basted,
which tests a tailor’s ability nearly completed jacket with
to cut and make men’s and both sleeves attached. The
women’s clothing. In shoulder was very soft with a
addition to the standard fare thin layer of interlining. I
of business suits and sports also bent one of my own
jackets, he showed me a rules and immediately
photo of a wonderful ordered a three piece suit
Astrakhan collar 6x2 double- with peak lapels (or lancia)
breasted overcoat he made. to be made from a dry, H.
He meets the standard of the Lesser-like English
most capable tailors here and Author’s whipcord topcoat windowpane suiting.
can make a variety of When I visited a fourth time
shoulders – classico (traditional), manica camicia, to pick up the my Carnet windowpane jacket, the three
manica attacca (see below) and spallina scivolata. piece windowpane suit was also ready though some
For my initial order, I handed over a Carnet Milano additional tweaking was needed across the right
windowpane summerweight jacketing and asked him shoulder. I loved the shape, styling and accents of his
Page 56
Giuseppe Arrigo
jackets. Interestingly, he constructed two different types movement is important, then request this upfront.
of shoulders - manica camicia on the sports coat and Otherwise check out tailors who cut a more giving
manica attacca (probably short for 'attaccato' or jacket like Gorgone in Messina, Zacco in Palermo or
attached) on the suit jacket. perhaps Caponetto in Catania.
Compared to other jackets, Arrigo's looks and feels As with the other Sicilian tailors, the trousers
more sculpted and trim around the shoulders and Arrigo made for me are slim, narrow and belted.
waist. This sculpted look carries over in ease of Arrigo's are the slimmest by a small margin. The vest or
movement to some extent. For example, when holding waistcoat featured a rear fastening buckle and
the arms in front and crossing them over, there is traditional vest pockets. The vest was cut a bit a shorter
perhaps 5 to 10 percent less forward ease with Arrigo's than my Savile Row and American waistcoats so
jacket. It's certainly not uncomfortable but it is slightly worthy of discussion if you prefer longer vests.
more restrictive in the forward plane. If ease of
Author’s suit with manica attaca shoulder from 2011 (left) largely retaining its Sicilian lines
despite the author’s expanded measurements in 2016 (right)
Page 57
Messina
Giovanni Cinturrino
Via Industriale 65 Cinturrino seemed very open to accommodating
Tel +39 090 293 9545 client schedules and can do a two-day turnaround for
Hours: Monday-Friday 8am-1pm, 2pm-7pm; Saturday suits. He is aided by computerized pattern storage and
1-2pm printing which is unlike the other tailors I visited.
Similar to a few other tailors like Macchia and Arrigo,
Vitals Cinturrino also makes women's clothes.
• Estimated time for initial jacket: Three days When I asked him about his influences, he said he
• Number of fittings: Two was most influenced by Rubinacci of Naples. Most
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes interesting, but certainly consistent with the outsized
• Price (CMT): Jacket EUR 500 influence of the Neapolitans on Sicilian tailoring. Even
so, Cinturrino makes classic, softly structured jackets in
Pros
• Modern computerized pattern storage for
consistency
• Quick turnaround time
• Professional, courteous demeanor
Cons
After my initial meeting back in 2011, I have

visited Cinturrino a couple of times, most recently in
2017. He has always been very cordial, welcoming and
open to chatting each time.
Cinturrino, like the other tailors in Messina, is
located within walking distance of the train station and
bus station. He trained in Turin and has served as the
president of the Messina tailoring association. As such,
he said he knows all the local tailors and undoubtedly
the reverse is true as well. In the recent past, he said
there were once 67 tailors working in Messina but that
has dwindled to only a handful left. The good news is
that this guide covers the majority of those remaining
Note the elegantly tapered sleeve on Cinturrino’s jacket
tailors.
Page 58
Giovanni Cinturrino
the Sicilian way. As usual, the Japanese sartorial customer is at the head
As he reiterated a couple of times, he is always of the adoption curve for high-end men's clothing.
ready to work. I did not order anything during my In the meantime, if you’re looking for a soft classico
initial visit but nonetheless he very graciously invited shoulder perfectly at home in any business setting and
me and my translator for are pressed for time, Cinturrino
coffee and gelato. During looks like an excellent tailor for
our coffee break, your needs. All things
Cinturrino mentioned that considered, he offers exceptional
he heard a Japanese group value in light of the significant
had toured Sicily recently to upward trend in pricing.
visit the different tailors
(including Crimi I believe).
Cinturrino standing next to overcoat (top) and sample jackets (bottom)
Page 59
Messina
Fratelli Gorgone
Via Ettore Lombardo Pellegrino 132
Tel +39 090 675 663 Pros
Hours: Monday to Saturday 8am-1pm, 3:30pm-8pm • Friendly pair of brothers offering classic Sicilian soft
tailoring
Vitals • Advantage of two tailors working in tandem instead
• Estimated time for initial jacket: 50 working hours of one
• Number of fittings: Two to three • Excellent trouser maker
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes
• Price (CMT): Please inquire at the shop Cons
My most recent visit occurred in spring 2017. The

brothers instantly recognized me even after a hiatus of a
few years and several commissions later.
In particular, one pair of commissions enjoys a
special status in my wardrobe. They initially made me
linen trousers a few years ago. This was followed by
winter trousers in heavyweight Bedford cord of at least
30oz in weight. Both are among my favorite pants.
Despite being a relatively simpler garment
compared to a jacket, nicely fitting pants can be elusive
to find. For me, the issue has been balancing fit and
ease around the seat while maintaining a sense of
horizontal and vertical proportion. But this sartoria
nailed it on the first try.
Giuseppe and Sebastiano’s approach is
distinguished by their dedication to the traditional
workshop. Nearly everything is done by hand except
the long straight seams (center and side seams of a
jacket). Like other tailors, they are capable of making a
variety of shoulders including the classico and manica
camicia. I learned that most of their customers order
Suit jacket in progress the classico shoulder, and liked what I saw on the tailor
Page 60
Fratelli Gorgone
form – double-breasted jackets and single breasted
jackets with peak and notch lapels.
I dealt mostly with Giuseppe (or Joseph as he
jokingly calls himself in mock fluent English). He is
the more gregarious of the two and knows bits of
English. Both brothers were trained in Messina and
make all the jackets. They work as a team which can
offer some benefits compared to the single tailor
model. They have a very talented trouser maker who
makes the pantaloni.
My initial order was a pair of straw-colored linen
pants from the Caccioppoli Irish linen book (200g). I
requested a buttoned fly and one reverse pleat. When I
tried on the pants, I initially thought they were similar
to other Sicilian pants. But they offer a touch more
ease through the seat and thigh while still looking
trim. Consequently, they are one of my favorites.
The brothers also made me a fine evening suit of
Halstead wool/mohair cloth. When I presented the
cloth, there was an immediate discussion of whether

lining was needed, as well as the features for my suit. I
requested a peak lapel (lancia), one button, besom
pockets and double vents. I got the first and last of my
requests. They suggested two button and flapped
pockets instead so I agreed to go with those features.
Given the cloth, this jacket is more classically
constructed and conservatively cut, again showing the
versatility of Sicilian tailors.
My takeaway is simple. The brothers are always a
delight to chat with about life, work and current
events. They almost make you forget that they are
Author’s Caccioppoli linen pants (left); customer jacket
(right) superb tailors in a city full of talented tailors.
Page 61
Fratelli Gorgone
The brothers working on basted jackets (top); Sebastiano chalking directly to cloth from measurements (bottom)
Page 62
Messina
Santi Macchia
Viale San Martino 449 the workshop. From the Piazza Cairoli stop, the trip
Tel +39 090 2930061 takes about 20 minutes.
Website www.santimacchia.com
Hours: Monday to Saturday 8am-1pm, 3:30pm-8pm Pros
• Highly accomplished and experienced tailor who
Vitals augments his experience with a high degree of
• Estimated time for initial jacket: Two weeks, quicker flexibility
turnaround is possible if scheduled in advance • Multigenerational workshop with English speaker on
• Number of fittings: One to two staff
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes • Offers both men’s and women’s bespoke clothing
• Price (CMT): Jacket EUR 900, pants EUR 300. This is
made to the workshop’s highest standard (e.g. hand Cons
padded interlinings and hand-sewn buttonholes, • N/A
pick stitching and linings).
• Location: The easiest way to reach the sartoria is I had the pleasure of meeting Santi Macchia
taking the local tram to the Provinciale stop (first through a referral by a retired tailor in Messina whose
stop after the Villa Dante park) which lies in front of recommendation to see Santi was advice well-taken.
Store entrance facing the tram stop Provinciale (left); Macchia at a worktable with his pattern drafting books (right)
Page 63
Santi Macchia
My one regret is not having met in time for the first
edition of this guide.
After much research and evaluation, I went with
Santi and his workshop to launch my Sicilian
Reserve project. Even if I hadn’t chosen to partner
with him for the launch the observations that follow
would have remained the same.
Above all, Santi is a highly experienced
practitioner of his craft and has worked in the trade
for decades. He has won national awards (Forbici
d’Oro or Golden Shears) in competition with other
leading tailors across Italy. Unlike many tailors, he is
fluent in several different pattern drafting and
cutting systems (including one dating back to 1928)
and has learned over the years to apply the optimal
system and techniques depending on the specific
application.
Thanks to his experience, he is one of the few
tailors who can produce a first jacket for a new client
based on just one fitting. This was the case for the
sample jacket and pants shown here. Even so, his
workshop has extremely limited production - about
100 suits per year.
Stylistically, his workshop is supremely at ease in
creating soft Neapolitan-style tailoring and more
classic, structured garments for both men and women.
Author’s soft manica camicia jacket and pants made with
One interesting detail: of all the Sicilian jackets I have
just one fitting (left, right)
Page 64
Santi Macchia
commissioned, this jacket has
the most Neapolitan-like sleeve
in terms of shape and fullness.
The Sicilian touch comes in the
form of a cleaner overall line and
shape.
In my mind, Santi
exemplifies the true versatility of
Sicilian tailoring whose sweet
spot is softly structured jackets.
But he can pivot on a dime and
cut and make more robustly
structured or completely
unstructured jackets as needed.
In a good sign for the future,
the workshop includes a younger
generation learning, cutting and

designing for both male and
female clients. Unlike many of
his compatriots, Santi has the
desire and capacity to continue
the business after he retires.
Getting interesting
commissions is key to keeping
and training talent. Besides
civilian attire, Santi and his
workshop have created
theatrical costumes for a
number of productions at the
Messina opera house Teatro
Vittorio Emanuele including
Verdi’s Rigoletto and Mozart’s
Cosi fan tutti. He has also
Macchia both manages his workshop and also joins his team in making jackets
(top); clean manica camicia shoulder (bottom) taught theatrical costume
Page 65
Santi Macchia
Sample herringbone tweed jacket with vest
design and tailoring classes in Sicily. During a conversation while walking from the
Perhaps because of this diverse range of clients, I storefront to the workshop, Santi shared an
have found Santi very easy to work with. I think this interesting tidbit from his past. He was once invited
stems from his healthy sense of pragmatism. When I to be a tailor and cutter at Rubinacci in Naples but
asked what he gleaned from his teachers, he said, “I had to turn it down for personal reasons.
took from each of my teachers their best and most Obviously, this would have been a terrific career
useful insights. Each teacher has a strength usually opportunity and experience. But in the end I’m glad
in one particular area. This is how I learned he decided to stay in Sicily. The result is an equally
tailoring.” terrific sartoria bearing his name.
And the most important part about tailoring?
“Cutting is the most important thing about tailoring.
It is the basis of everything.”
Page 66
Annex: Messina Tailors

Antonino Briguglio
Via XXVII Luglio 102
Tel +39 090 674520
the chest and shoulder. He makes a clean, softly

structured jacket - very Sicilian to my eye - with
minimal interlining in the chest and shoulder.
After exchanging a few pleasantries in basic Italian,
I indicated I was interested in meeting the tailor. After
his wife finished attaching the lining, she kindly
fetched him from their apartment around the corner.
Since my knowledge of Italian is basic, I may have
miscommunicated my intent. Nonetheless Briguglio
Store entrance (left) and customer jacket on form (right) did not seem interested in being interviewed or having
a more in-depth discussion. I thought perhaps he was
I am including Signor Briguglio in the form of an nearing retirement and asked him directly but he gave
introductory note rather than a detailed profile. When I an unclear response - not yes but also not quite no. He
walked by his workshop by chance, I found his wife could be very busy and not interested in taking on
sitting on the sofa hand sewing the lining around the more clients.
armhole of a bright Yves Klein blue jacket. Regardless of the reason, I was not able to collect
I saw a nearly finished jacket on the tailor's form in additional information. If you feel adventurous, stop by
the store (see photo). The handwork and finishing for a chat. I think it likely you’ll find his subtly
looked neat with classic proportions and structure in structured approach to tailoring appealing but you
Page 67

might need a little luck and perseverance to become
a new client.
Store entrance (left) and navy cashmere overcoat (right)
Epifanio Coco
Via Ettore Lombardo Pellegrino 108
Tel +39 090 718010
I discovered this sartoria while wandering about

in Messina and dropped by a couple of times over
obligingly pulled out a couple of jackets in progress
the years for casual conversation. My first visit was a made out of solaro and a silk-linen blend. Certainly
few years ago when I saw a magnificent navy blue worth a look if you are visiting Messina. His
cashmere overcoat on the tailor’s form (see photo on
daughter could also act as an English-speaking proxy
right). when you plan your visit.
I visited again in spring of 2017 with a translator
to get a fuller picture of the tailor. Similar to Zacco in
Lorenzo di Pane
Palermo, Coco is a one-person workshop. He said he Cell +39 346 3002908
needs at least two to three months to complete a suit
since he cuts and sews by himself.
In the summer of 2017, I attempted to schedule
Interestingly enough, he currently has an a meeting with di Pane but we were not able to find a
American client as well as an Italian ambassador. He good time to meet during my visit. He actually lives
Page 68

outside of the city of Messina and works from home month. For jackets, they focus on classic, traditional
rather than a dedicated workshop or store. jackets rather than manica camicia style jackets.
If you’re interested to meet him, you’ll need to
contact him and arrange for a time and place to Sartoria Ragusa
meet. He’s open to meeting in Messina which I plan Via Nino Bixio 74
to do in the future. Naturally, I’m curious to see a Tel +39 090 2925771
sample jacket and pants in progress or close to Email info@sartoriaragusa.it
completion. Website www.sartoriaragusa.eu
Hours: Monday-Saturday 9:30am-1pm,
Placido Giacoppo 4:30pm-8pm
Via Nino Bixio 132
Tel +39 090 716008 I first visited this sartoria in late 2011 and am
including them since I liked what I saw, which was
I’ve dropped by a couple of times, once in 2011 squarely in the Sicilian mold of softly structured
and more recently in 2017. Their primary business jackets. They also make bridal gowns and
seems to be making uniforms for government, matrimonial wear. Their sister shop is Camiceria
musical groups and other businesses. Flavia which makes bespoke shirts on a CMT basis
On my latest visit, I was quoted a CMT price of or with their own fabric.
EUR 400 for a jacket and turnaround time of one Additionally, during my 2011 visit, I discovered
their workshop can make bespoke ties for formal
occasions (see Bespoke Shirts, Ties and Accessories).
In terms of style, Ragusa is capable of both
manica camicia and classico construction. A jacket
takes up to a month with three fittings. When I
visited in 2011, CMT pricing was a bit higher than
other local tailors so I imagine that’s still the case in
2017. Men’s bespoke is handled by appointment and
an English speaker is available.
Store entrance of Sartoria Ragusa
Page 69
Syracuse (Siracusa)
The island of Ortigia, the older, walled part of Syracuse, is cinematically situated on the Ionian Sea
This now, the very latest of my toils, most beautiful of all.”

Vouchsafe me, Arethusa! As you explore this city, you may hear echoes of
- Virgil, The Eclogues X scientific discovery (birthplace of Archimedes), ancient
Syracuse is a must-see destination and dates back and medieval conflicts (Sicilian Expedition, Castello
to at least the eighth century B.C., earning it Maniace) and mythopoetic figures (Fountain of
designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Arethusa, Temple of Apollo).
oldest part, the island of Ortigia, features a waterfront I originally visited in November 2011 and actually
promenade that exudes historical presence at every met two tailors including Nunzio Zocco. Regrettably, I
step. decided not to include Syracuse in the first edition
because of limited time and space. That mistake has
No stranger to great cities, Cicero once described
been corrected here.
Syracuse as the “greatest of the Greek cities, and the
Page 70
Siracusa
Nunzio Zocco
Via Landolino Saverio 12 Pros
Tel +39 0931 61508 • A wealth of experience in making classic, more
Hours: Monday-Saturday 9am-1pm, 4pm-7:30pm structured suits and jackets
Vitals Cons
• Estimated time for initial suit: Two weeks (CMT) • Does not speak English
• Number of fittings: Two
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes Back in late 2011, I visited Syracuse for a couple of
• Price (CMT): Suit EUR 1,300, jacket EUR 1,000 days and found Nunzio Zocco near the Piazza Duomo
in Ortigia. Zocco’s demeanor was quite gentlemanly
and cordial. During our pleasant chat, he said that he
learned his craft in Syracuse and Verona if my memory
serves me. When we spoke about jacket construction,
he said he makes a classic shoulder only but it is a
mostly handmade garment.
Conveniently, Sleevehead reader Oskar Volkland
visited the tailor in early 2017. At 82 years, Zocco is
probably the most experienced tailor still working in
Syracuse.
According to Zocco, there were approximately 200
tailors in Syracuse in the 1960s. This has dwindled to
just himself and possibly another tailor I met in a
different neighborhood in 2011. Unfortunately, he
doesn’t have a successor to take over the sartoria. But if
Caponetto at 90 can take on a young apprentice, I say
there is still time.
In the past I have received inquiries from young
people interested in becoming a tailor. If this describes
you, consider giving Zocco a call. Stranger things have
happened in life.
There is one other thing he shared with Oskar I
found fascinating. He said investors from Shanghai
Chest and shoulder of Zacco jacket. offered to buy his brand a few years ago but he
Photo credit: Oskar Volkland declined the offer. Some may regard this as a wasted
Page 71
Nunzio Zocco
opportunity. But for me, it suggests the right The other tailor I
opportunity could still present itself given sufficient visited in 2011 was Alberto
interest and persistence. Pisana (Via Santa Maria di
In the meantime, even if you’re not interested in Gesù 17) offering both
buying Zocco’s workshop consider dropping off a alterations and su misura.
length of cloth for a classic business suit or sports CMT was available albeit
jacket. Your commission will certainly stand out in without a manica camicia
your wardrobe as being cut and made by most likely option. As of June 2015,
the last remaining tailor in Syracuse, and certainly the Google Maps suggests he Photo credit: Google Maps
most experienced. was still active.
Zocco standing next to nearly finished jacket. Photo credit: Oskar Volkland
Page 72
Ragusa
Ragusa Ibla
A considerable benefit of visiting Ragusa is the generation ago. But repeated calls to a phone number
town itself, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a listed in his name were left unanswered.
stunning Sicilian baroque town and well worth a visit I ended up having a chance encounter which you
on its own. Ragusa is divided into Ragusa Ibla and can read below. Ragusa was not on my radar during my
Superiore. The latter is the newer part of the town initial exploration of Sicily and I certainly regret not
constructed after the devastating earthquake of 1693. spending time here earlier.
My initial intent in visiting Ragusa was to meet But as the saying goes, better late than never. The
Giuseppe Schembari whom I understood to be one of clock may be ticking but there is still time to discover
Sicilian tailoring’s elder statesmen, part of the golden Ragusan tailoring…
age of tailors who started working more than a
Page 73
Ragusa
Hotels • London Bar (Via G. Carducci 137). After
• B&B Mare e Terra (Via Federico di Svevia 19). walking back and forth Ragusa one morning, I
A clean, affordable B&B just a five minute walk had an excellent chocolate croissant or cornetto
from the bus terminal on Via Zama and a 15 (EUR 1) to refill the tank.
minute walk to the central shopping area of Shopping
Ragusa Superiore. • Colori del Sole (Corso XXV Aprile 61). Latest
Transportation and logistics outpost of this Sicilian apparel, artwork, ceramics
• Etna intercity bus. The Catania-Ragusa trip and home furnishings brand featuring local
takes about one hour (one-way EUR 7.90). artisans in the heart of historic Ragusa Ibla.
• Line 1 bus. Buy an all-day pass (EUR 2) or a Nearby
single ticket (EUR 1.20) at any tabacchi, and take • Modica. A charming baroque town only 20
the #1 bus for the 15 minute ride from Ragusa minutes away covered in the following chapter.
Superiore to Ibla. • Noto. Another baroque jewel of a town
• Radio Taxi (tel +39 0932 1832). Fixed rates nearby. Take the AST bus or taxi for a day trip
from Ragusa to: Ragusa Ibla (EUR 10), Comiso from Ragusa.
airport (EUR 35) and Catania airport (EUR 110). • Corrado Arezzo de Spuches di Donnafugata.
Dining A fashion collection in the nearby town of
• La Ciotola (Via Archimede 23). Donnafugata called “Three centuries of fashion”.
Recommended by B&B Mare e Terra.
A view of Ragusa Ibla from Ragusa Superiore
Page 74
Ragusa
Giovanni Licitra
Via Sant’Anna 178 As I was walking along Corso Italia, a major retail
Tel +39 0932 228183 corridor, I stepped into a sewing supplies store and
asked the staff if they knew of any bespoke tailors. They
Vitals pointed me in the direction of Via Roma and ultimately
• Estimated time for initial suit: One to two weeks to an alteration tailor Sartoria Sprint.
• Number of fittings: Three Although the guidance to the alteration tailor was
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes slightly off target, I ended up walking onto a side street
• Price (CMT): Suit EUR 800 of Via Roma which turned out to be the right location. I
immediately spotted the red sign for Sartoria Laterra.
Pros He was the second tailor on my list to find.
• One of the last representatives of the Ragusa tailoring Unfortunately, the store looked to have been closed for
community some time. Schembari’s old store was also on Via Roma
• Conversant in both classic and soft tailoring but I did not see any obvious signage.
Fortunately, I walked by Joy di Giuseppe Licitra, a
Cons clothing shop a few yards down the street, and asked
• Does not speak English the proprietor who was standing out front whether
Laterra was still working. He answered in the negative.
I then asked whether he knew of any tailors in Ragusa
and he brightened up and said there was one working
in his own store in the back.
It turned out that Giuseppe, the proprietor of the
store I spoke with, is the son of Giovanni, the tailor
who works in the back of the store. The tailor has his
own workspace with a sewing machine.
Licitra senior was born in Ragusa and trained in
Torino in 1969 on the Rocco Aloi cutting system (same
as Arrigo in Messina). He can make both classic and
manica camicia jackets. Astonishingly, he started
sewing at the age of five, which is the earliest among
tailors I have met.
In the 1950s, Ragusa had 90 tailors. Today more
than 60 years later the city is down to two active tailors
- Licitra and another tailor. After our chat, he kindly
Storefront with the tailor’s workshop in the back walked me to the address of his compatriot whom I
Page 75
Ragusa
Giovanni Licitra
hope to meet on a Given his age, Licitra

future visit. does not need to
In terms of fabrics, work. But he said it
he mentioned working is his passion and
with Loro Piana, Zegna Tailor at his workspace (top left); location of the other working considers it an “art
and Vitale Barberis tailor in Ragusa (top right); Laterra’s old shop (center) not a
Canonico fabrics but system” (“un’arte,
can probably can order from any of the Italian mills. non un sistema”). He then generously invited me to
A simple referral to De Pasquale should suffice to attend a tailor’s social circle that meets regularly
order cloth through the tailor. (weekly I believe). There are five tailors who meet,
As with many Sicilian tailors, he learned the including Laterra (and possibly Schembari if I
Neapolitan cut locally. When I asked him for his understood correctly).
opinion of the Neapolitan style, he paused and said Unfortunately, I was not able to join the group
the style is not suited for everyone. I think his but plan to visit again. I am looking forward to
assessment hits the mark fairly without diminishing having a jacket or suit made by one of the last
the ingenious innovation of the Neapolitan cut. remaining tailors of Ragusa.
Page 76
Modica
The steps leading up to the Church of San Giorgio
Along with Ragusa, Modica was leveled by the Umberto I. Take the quick 20 minute AST bus ride
massive 1693 earthquake. What resulted from the ruins from Ragusa to
was the creation of one of the gems of Sicilian baroque Modica (EUR 4.20).
architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. • Taxi to Ragusa
In his novel Blind Argus, Sicilian author Gesualdo (around EUR 25)
Bufalino writes that Modica is “like a pomegranate split Dining and shopping
in two, close to the sea, yet pastoral.” It’s a metaphoric • Antica Dolcerie
description that comes to life when you visit and walk Bonajuto (Corso
along its main street Corso Umberto I. Umberto I 159).
This street follows the course of the river that once Tasty cold-pressed
flowed at the bottom of the valley. The baroque chocolate with
outcroppings on either side of this valley play their part samples at the front
as the exposed fruit of the pomegranate yielding counter.
Modica Alta and Modica Bassa. • Ottavia Failla
Transportation and logistics (Corso Umberto I 181). One of two well-known local
• Bus station. Located at the bottom of Corso designers; showroom in Milan.
Page 77
Modica
Sartoria Concetto Modica
Viale Medaglie d'Oro 6 which is quite understandable. Concetto can make both
(Seconda Traversa Viale Medaglie d'Oro 6) classic and Neapolitan-style jackets and also described
Website: www.sartoriamodica.com making what he calls a travel jacket without any lining
(“solo tessuto”).
Concetto, the head tailor of this sartoria, is Consistent with true bespoke tailors, he has limited
effectively a one-man operation, though possibly production every year. For the time being, he has more
enlisting some help on the finishing details such as demand than he can meet from his largely international
buttonholes. We had a cordial chat when I walked in clientele. Hence he maintains a waiting list. This is also
without an appointment with my translator. He was the why he declined a more detailed profile in the book.
only person there. As of mid-July 2017 he was not accepting new
We saw him behind his table working on customers until the end of this year or beginning of the
constructing one of the chest pieces for a jacket. new year. CMT pricing is roughly in line with other
Interestingly, the chest lining featured both hand tailors. But, as might be expected, the waiting list both
padding and machine padding of the horsehair and giveth and taketh. If the timing works, Concetto is
camel hair chest canvas. I would estimate the machine open to taking on new customers. You can try your
v. hand padding of the chest canvas to be about a 70-30 luck contacting him directly or feel free to contact me
split. I attribute this to being a one-man operation, for more information.
Page 78
Bespoke Shirts, Ties & Accessories

In my travels, I have focused on tailors but along
the way I have come across bespoke makers of shirts
and, most recently, neckwear and caps.
Let’s start with shirts. On the whole, bespoke
shirts tend to be mostly machine-sewn. For a higher
price, you will find tell-tale, hand-sewn elements for
those who prefer such finishing (see Medea). But I
have yet to find shirtmakers here who can compete
with the Neapolitans in handwork both in sewing and
finishing details. Thus, my advice is to stick with
Naples for Neapolitan shirts.
Instead, Sicilian dress shirts offer tremendous
value and practicality for everyday wear. If you need
to build a large rotation of dress shirts, Sicily presents
a very attractive option.
I have encountered a few different types of
shirtmakers . The first is a small, home-based and
usually one-person operation. The optimist in me
thinks there are likely hidden one-person gems but
my search continues. The other is a RTW store with
bespoke operations. Lastly there is the rare, mostly
bespoke operation. For now, the last two are the most
convenient options for bespoke shirts with three
examples described below.
I’m also pleased to profile a trio of Palermitan
artisans: a tie maker, cap maker and shoemaker.
Camiceria Flavia
Via dei Mille 205
Messina
Tel +39 090 2935038
Website www.sartoriaragusa.eu
Customer supplied cloth: Yes
Estimated delivery time: Five business days
Bespoke price (CMT and non-CMT): EUR 79 Flavia storefront (top); author’s shirts (bottom)
Page 79

Payment: Credit card or cash than 25 different collar styles in two collar heights
Hours: Monday - Saturday 9am-1pm, 4pm-8pm and seven cuff styles.
When I first tried them several years ago, their
It is easy to overlook this shirtmaker, especially CMT price was considerably lower. But even at
for those seeking handwork and finishing details. Of current pricing, Flavia has remained my preferred
course, without proper fit, any level of hand finishing option for shirts. This is especially relevant for the
becomes a wasted decoration. working professional who needs a large rotation of
If your foremost consideration is fit rather than dress shirts.
handwork, then Flavia offers excellent value for a Back in 2011, I learned that Flavia’s sister shop
machine-sewn shirt (either RTW or bespoke). For Sartoria Ragusa offers bespoke ties (minimum order
initial orders, there is no try-on shirt. Based on my of three) up to seven-fold construction. However,
experience they produced an excellent fitting shirt the tie silk selection is limited to formal woven silks
which did not need any subsequent adjustments designed for matrimonial occasions. At the time
after the first shirt. You are able to choose from more they did not offer CMT but it’s worth a follow-up
inquiry if you are on the hunt for bespoke ties.
Via Maqueda Camicie

Via Maqueda 310
Palermo
Tel +39 091 581526
Estimated delivery time: Two weeks
Bespoke price (non-CMT): Starting at EUR 90
I spotted this RTW shirt shop in the spring of

2017 and thought I would stop by and take a look. I
was pleasantly surprised to learn that they have a
separate workshop in Palermo that makes their
bespoke shirts.
However, as I learned on my second visit, the
workshop closes every summer from July to the end
of August. The workshop starts again in September.
As a result, I was unfortunately not able to try them.
They also do not accept customer-supplied cloth for
Via Maqueda storefront
Page 80
bespoke orders. Nonetheless, I look forward to Medea was started in 2011 by two brothers Lillo
dropping in again when the opportunity arises. and Michele Scarantino whose parents helped them
get started in the shirtmaking business. Lillo and
Camiceria Medea Michele split their responsibilities by running the
Via Val d’Aosta 5/7
Caltanissetta
Tel +39 0934 594600
Email info@camiceriamedea.it
Website www.camiceriamedea.it
Customer supplied cloth: Possible but prefers to use
own suppliers
Bespoke price (non-CMT): Starts at EUR 130
Estimated delivery time: Two to three weeks
Minimum order: One shirt
Hours: By appointment at client’s home, office or
local tailor. The Caltinessetta store is open Monday
to Saturday, 9am-1pm and 4pm- 7pm.
Display shirts by Medea.
Photo credit (top and bottom): Lillo Scarantino
Page 81

sales and production aspects of the business buttonholes or the sleeve attachment (i.e. armhole). I
respectively. would note that the extra handwork will probably
Unlike the other two camicerie profiled here, add to the price. There is no minimum order or try-
Medea focuses on bespoke shirts and could very well on shirt. CMT is possible but they prefer to use their
be the most active bespoke shirtmaking workshop in own cloth suppliers such as Cotonificio Albini,
Sicily. Medea makes bespoke shirts for a few of the Thomas Mason, Grandi & Rubinelli, Testa and
Sicilian tailors featured in this guidebook. Tessitura Monti.
Lillo emphasized to me the importance of This camiceria has a distinct view on bespoke
meeting with and understanding the client before shirts. On the one hand, su misura means that “the
discussing the more technical and aesthetic issues shirt should be like a feather which lies on the
such as fabric selection and the shape of the collar. shoulders without any constraint because every seam
For him, fabric and collar shape are very important follows the shape of the body” (“la camicia deve
to which I agree. Their view is that fabrics can be essere come una piuma…”).
lightweight or full-bodied but never heavy. Furthermore, Lillo believes the most important
Their bespoke shirts are machine-sewn but hand component of a shirt is the collar shape. I tend to
finishing can be requested in certain areas such as agree as there is a very strong argument for the
Interior of Medea’s Caltanissetta showroom and workshop in the back. Photo credit: Lillo Scarantino
Page 82
Roberta in front of her shop. Photo credit: Ewan Thomas
centrality of the collar from an aesthetic and

construction standpoint. Uno Antica Cravatteria
Moreover, as Lillo described to me, he and his Discesa dei Giudici 14 (corner of Via Roma)
brother favor an ethos and aesthetic of discretion, Palermo
even a kind of anonymity. In particular, he is not a Tel: +39 091 6160922
fan of shirts with highly contrasting inserts in the Hours: Monday-Saturday 9:30-7:30pm, Sunday
cuff or collar that are flashy and call for attention. 10-1pm
I thoroughly enjoyed my lengthy discussion with Estimated delivery time: 2-3 days
Lillo in Palermo and subsequent correspondence, Bespoke tie price (CMT): EUR 35 (with deposit)
and look forward to continuing our conversation in RTW tie price : EUR 35-120
the future. Payment: Either cash or credit card
Page 83

In 2017 I unexpectedly met my first Sicilian
bespoke tiemaker open to cut-make-trim while
wandering around Palermo. Since I had nearly given
up looking for bespoke ties, I was very pleasantly
surprised when I found myself one day standing in
front of a store dedicated to neckties.
The current owner Roberta took over the
business from her aunt who founded it in 1954. In
addition to bespoke ties, they make and sell RTW
ties and accessories such as ascots and scarves. The
silk is exclusively sourced from suppliers in Como.
The RTW and bespoke ties are standard three-
fold construction. I inquired about five-fold and
Antica’s window display (left); RTW ties (right)
seven-fold ties but the workshop is capable only of

three-fold ties for now. Over time I’m hopeful this
will change as more customers ask for different
construction methods. Roberta said I was the first
person to ask about seven-fold ties.
Bespoke neckwear can be done on a CMT basis
where you bring your own length of tie silk and
specify the length and width of the tie. Under ideal
circumstances, they can make a tie from a square
piece of silk measuring 80cm x 80cm.
Since there is a wide range of possible tie widths
and lengths, your best bet is to bring one yard or
meter per tie (or contact them beforehand based on
Page 84
Store owner with extensive cap selection at Il Cappellaio Matto
your desired length and width). They can make a finished ties and perhaps getting the process started
matching necktie and bowtie with 1 1/4 meters for their tie maker to consider making five-fold and
though 1 1/2 meters is safer given the different seven-fold ties. The other potential opportunity is
variables at work. offering a bespoke option on a selection of the Como
Regarding tie silk, I ended up going to two fabric silks the store normally sets aside for their RTW ties.
suppliers in New York City: Mood Fabrics (turn left Roberta speaks a little English but be prepared to
after the main entrance on level three) and Tip Top converse in Italian. If you’re lucky you may find her
(in the main room under the center table). Mood has English-speaking friend Ewan at the store who can
several small shelves of tie silks all priced at $25 per help with translation.
yard.
Alternatively, I imagine cotton or linen-cotton Il Cappellaio Matto (The Mad Hatter)
blends (either lightweight jacketing or heavier Via Vittorio Emanuele 171
shirting cloth) can be made into ties for the spring Palermo
and summer. Cell +39 338 4770864
On my second visit to the store, I dropped off Price: EUR 15 (cotton caps) to EUR 40 (wool)
two silk lengths and left a deposit to start the work. I
look forward to returning in late 2017 to pick up the The Sicilian cap (coppola) can be traced back to
Page 85

the hunting caps worn by the English gamekeepers
who attended to the royal hunts of King Ferdinand I.
More than 200 years later, a version of this cap lives
on in this shop.
The owner of the store handles everything
related to RTW and bespoke cap making including
sewing and cutting. He makes a machine sewn cap.
Each cap takes about 30 minutes to make from start
to finish. You can choose from a variety of in-stock
fabrics including cotton, linen and wool. I neglected
to ask about customers supplying their own fabric
and intend to ask the next time.
The cap maker also showed me a cap for EUR
150 featuring a clever bias cut, patchwork crown.
The individual patch pieces are sewn together and
aligned on the bias which allows the fabric to stretch
comfortably from front to back.
Rizzo Manufacture Studio

Via Ruggero Settimo 74/d Rizzo’s storefront
Palermo shoe side of the business comes from Fabrizio Rizzo,
Tel +39 347 8741235 whose family spans three generations of shoemakers.
Email info@rizzoms.it Their manufacturing website Scius Italia
Website rizzoms.it/ indicates that the family continues to own a small
Estimated delivery: Please inquire at the shop shoe factory in Palermo which makes their own
Price: Please inquire at the shop shoes and for other brands including A. Testoni.
Based on the photos from the Rizzo and Scius
Since the store was closed both times I stopped websites, the shoes are most likely Blake-stitched, a
by in the early afternoon, I have not had the chance popular welting method among Italian and Spanish
of a proper visit. However, I’m including it since it is makes.
potentially the only men’s made-to-measure or Incidentally, the store is located in the same
made-to-order shoemaker I have encountered in courtyard as one of the B&Bs described in the
Sicily (the only other one being the women’s Palermo accommodations page (Palazzo Pantaleo).
shoemaker Battiato in Catania).
This is actually a concept store combining two
interests of the owners: vinyl records and shoes. The
Page 86
Conclusion
This book could not have been written even as merchants or mills like William Halstead, Smiths,
recently as the 1990s or early 2000s. In 1992, Sicily Harrisons or Holland & Sherry but this is changing.
was under siege in a bloody state of civil war between Another common theme: soft (or morbida)
the mafia and government reformers. But concerted construction. Almost all of the tailors describe their
judicial prosecution and law enforcement have jackets this way when asked about their construction
weakened the roots of this hidden network, allowing methods.
growth and normalization of Sicilian civic society. A final note on the various photos featured in this
Culturally, the timing is right for a newfound guide. The photos should be taken simply as
appreciation of Sicily by tourists and certainly the preliminary visual indicators of whether you might
traveling cognoscenti. be interested in a specific tailor. Two-dimensional
Yet proper photos of a three-
recognition of dimensional jacket
Sicilian tailoring is is no substitute for
still overdue and viewing the tailor,
this guide is meant his shop and
to correct that sample work in
oversight by person.
highlighting the Ultimately, you
distinguishing should stand in
characteristics of the tailor’s shop
Sicilian tailoring and let your own
and specific tailors eye be the judge of
in that tradition. It whether you like
is my hope that “Golden age” tailors Caponetto, Risicato and Schembari on the 1986 Forbici what you see. This
the reader can now d’Oro jury selection for Sicily. Photo credit: Giovanni Cinturrino guide should be
fully appreciate simply what the
Sicilian tailoring and the artisans who continue to word means - a guide - not a substitute for your
represent that tradition. personal taste, judgment and imagination.
Despite certain differences, I would say the tailors In the first edition, I wrote that “tailors lamented
share a number of common characteristics. Fabrics the fact that the younger generation has no interest in
used are generally lighter weight, rarely above 11-12 such labor intensive work…[and] Sicily will likely
ounces. The tailors carry mostly Italian fabrics, which face a shortfall in younger talent in the coming years.”
is important if you have a decided preference for This is stating an obvious fact. Sicilian tailoring
English fabrics. In that case, you'll need to bring your has seen a massive generational shift, a passing of the
own cloths and work with a tailor who can guard among tailors, and an equally enormous shift
accommodate CMT. Few carry high quality English in the consumer base that once supported a healthy
Page 87
Conclusion
critical mass of tailors. This golden age lasted until
the 1980s. What can be called the “golden decline”
started shortly thereafter and accelerated at the
beginning of the early 2000s.
I discovered Sicilian tailoring at the tail end of
the golden decline when a few of the old guard were
still working such as Caponetto, Zocco and Ferina.
Despite the steep drop-off in numbers, the sheer
quality that remained was shocking enough to
compel me to write the first edition of this book.
As a reader of this guide, you play a pivotal role
in staunching the decline and perhaps even
reversing it. Included with the purchase of this book
is a complimentary membership to the Sleevehead
Forum, an online community for Sicilian tailors,
artisans and their supporters. By logging in and
participating in this community, you can support
future editions as well as the tailors.
In the process, you might even find your sense of
style begin to evolve after the first, I hope, of many
journeys to Sicily. I encourage you to visit the island
and try more than one tailor. If you have a
reasonably sized budget and time, there is really no
excuse not to be open and experimental.
There is also no excuse not to recommend your
tailor or tailors to your family, friends and
colleagues.
Finally, if you enjoyed the guide, please consider
ordering more copies, and spreading the word on
your favorite social media platform using the
hashtags #SGST and #sleevehead.
Page 88
Next Steps
My hope is that you have been informed and even thumb, plan on spending at least a week to finish your
inspired by what you have read. Now the question is first jacket or suit including time for fittings.
what next? If you are interested in pursuing Sicilian Although the chances are high that the tailor will
tailoring, you have two broad options. The first is lock in your pattern on the first jacket, this may not
visiting the island and meeting the tailors directly. I happen. Again, the best way to address this is showing
believe this is the best way to experience and enjoy up in person at the tailor.
Sicilian tailoring. The second variable required for success is bespoke
But if you’re not able to travel, then Sicilian Reserve experience. Sicilian tailors are very talented but I would
may be the next best option. Six years after my first trip not recommend the DIY option to a complete bespoke
to Sicily and many jackets and suits later, I launched novice for what I hope are obvious reasons.
Sicilian Reserve to help connect more customers to A third factor is a clear understanding and
Sicilian appreciation of
tailoring. I the Sicilian
will discuss approach to
this tailoring. In
opportunity turn, this
in more presupposes
detail later in experience
this chapter. with and
Otherwise, understanding
the main of Neapolitan
option is a tailoring
do-it- (including
yourself shirt-shoulder
(DIY) The Sicilian baroque Church of San Pietro in Modica construction or
approach manica
using this guidebook as your primary resource. You camicia). If you do not understand or care for softly
should also read the next two sections, Sourcing Your structured shoulders and soft tailoring, then it doesn't
Cloth and Planning Your Trip. make much sense to fly thousands of miles to a place
If you’ve decided on the DIY option, let me offer a where it is prevalent.
quick checklist of success factors. Let's also add ability to communicate with the
The most important variable to success is your tailors. With just a couple of exceptions, very few tailors
ability to travel to Sicily to get measured and fitted for spoke English (or any other foreign language for that
your first jacket or suit. Prior to this, you’ll need to matter). There are ways to deal with this, which I detail
schedule an appointment well in advance. As a rule of in the guide, but you must at least be able to pick up a
Page 89
Next Steps
few phrases in basic conversational Italian for this to As a general rule, the best option is still the old
work comfortably and relatively smoothly for all fashioned method of traveling periodically to drop
parties involved. off cloth, confirming fit with a basted, try-on jacket
Even if you hire a translator, do not expect full and then either picking up or shipping your finished
fluency in translating specific tailoring terms. commissions back home. One of the benefits is that
Ultimately, you will need to rely on your own it puts you essentially on roughly equal footing with
judgment, experience and knowledge of bespoke to local clients in case the workshop becomes very
make this work. busy.
I also believe that you will benefit most if you More importantly, it helps to ensure consistency
have a stock of cloth ready to be made into clothes of fit because the process of periodic fittings and the
on a CMT basis. CMT offers the best value for socializing that goes with it conforms to how the
overseas customers tailor normally
who have plentiful works with clients.
cloth but lack local The traditional
tailors. If you skip bespoke process is
the CMT option, small-batch,
then you will be repetitive and
dependent on the serial in nature.
tailor’s cloth, Obviously this
which can requires the ability
lengthen delivery to travel to Sicily
times. The tailors on a regular basis,
tend to source which may not be
their cloth mostly feasible for
from the well- everyone.
known Italian For experienced
mills rather than and knowledgeable
English ones. bespoke readers, you have more degrees of freedom
Longer term, the other important consideration to relax this travel constraint by leveraging your
is deciding how to handle subsequent orders. There bespoke experience. In effect, you can pursue what
are several ways to handle this and success might be called a “big bang” approach.
ultimately depends on your bespoke experience and Here’s what a travel-efficient strategy looks like
ability to travel to Sicily. for the experienced reader: (1) Choose a tailor from
My recommendations below are segmented this guide (2) Schedule a visit and order an initial
largely on these two factors. jacket or suit (3) Lock in the fit for your initial order
Page 90
Next Steps
and (4) Immediately place a large follow-on order or All things considered, this is a decent strategy
shortly thereafter. I’m hearing this is how a growing for all parties. You, the reader, are able to minimize
number of customers are working with a few of the travel in your busy schedule. For the tailor, the
tailors profiled in this guide. Anecdotally, I’ve heard critical elements from a cut-and-make perspective
of one client ordering 10-15 jackets at a time. are fresh in his mind: your recently drafted pattern,
This approach is surely predicated on a few any fit adjustments to the pattern and your
assumptions. As an experienced bespoke customer, figuration to ensure sleeve pitch and overall jacket
you probably have a large inventory of fabric ready balance.
to be made into clothing. You know what to look for Last but not least, an order of ten or more jackets
during the fitting process and what should come out could very well be the largest your Sicilian tailor has
of it. There is no uncertainty or fuzziness on your ever undertaken for a single client. This means you
Tailor’s shears and your pattern are necessary but not sufficient for a remote, long-term tailoring relationship
part. Even if there are minor issues with fit in a are certainly top of mind, even a point of pride for
subsequent order, you are able to travel or send the him and hence highly motivating.
jacket to Sicily to correct it. Furthermore, you have For readers with moderate experience with
worked out an arrangement with your tailor in bespoke, I’m afraid there are no shortcuts, at least for
advance to address such issues. now. The old-fashioned approach of traveling
In my mind, this means you confirm that your periodically to meet the tailor still remains the most
tailor has a process to ensure the fit of subsequent effective one to ensure consistency of fit. Deviating
garments and you agree on a financial structure to from this approach will increase the risk of
address follow-on alterations or adjustments that inconsistency in subsequent orders.
may arise.
Page 91
Next Steps
In particular, I want to address the admittedly customers regarding customer service, English
alluring idea of traveling just once to Sicily for an language communication and related support.
initial jacket or suit and then managing all Sicilian Reserve takes on these core
subsequent orders remotely. This might be called a responsibilities and acts as your relationship and
“fire-and-forget” approach to tailoring. It might process advocate to the tailor. Since you are unable
sound similar to the big bang approach but it is not. to travel and communicate with the tailor, we take
In the big bang approach, the customer has the care of that for you. The same goes for the due
resources to travel back to Sicily to continue to build diligence needed to select tailors who are the most
the relationship with his tailor and resolve any ready and capable of working with overseas
potential issues with his commissions. For example, customers.
this might include a change in his measurements due Perhaps most importantly, Sicilian Reserve has
to a recent exercise regimen or a slight adjustment developed a specific process and protocol with the
needed in a jacket or pants. By visiting the tailor only tailor to ensure consistency of fit. For more
when needed and making each visit count in a information, please visit the website or feel free to
commercial and social sense, such a client maintains reach me at contact@sicilianreserve.com.
a certain leverage and respect with the tailor. For the DIY option, I look forward to offering
The fire-and-forget approach is a different kind ongoing advice and consultation. During the
of animal. At the moment I am not able to planning phase and after you complete your trip, feel
recommend this strategy since the majority of free to contact me (sleevehead@gmail.com) with
Sicilian tailors are not positioned and set up to questions or updates, and even suggest new tailors
handle this approach. Over time, this may change. for the third (!) edition. Even better, post questions
If you do attempt the fire-and-forget approach, and share your thoughts on Sleevehead Forum.
please keep me apprised of your efforts which I may In the end, I am confident any issues you may
discuss further in a future edition or separate encounter will be minor and temporary, especially if
newsletter. I suspect more than a few readers will be you have the ability to meet your tailor directly on an
tempted to try it even though the risks should be ongoing basis or indirectly through Sicilian Reserve.
self-evident. With the help of this guide, you will be able to
Last but not least, there is a large contingent of focus on developing a long-term relationship with
readers who are new to bespoke and/or unable to your tailor(s) and experiencing Sicilian tailoring at
travel to Sicily. I developed Sicilian Reserve as a its finest and most refined.
reliable and consistent conduit to Sicilian tailoring.
As mentioned earlier, the challenge is that most
workshops are not set up yet for managing overseas
Page 92
Sourcing Your Cloth

Sourcing cloth as a consumer was a key enabler
in writing the first edition of this guide. This has only
gotten easier in recent years thanks to growing
availability of cut-length cloth.
Brick-and-mortar fabric stores are the focus of
this chapter because they are still the best way to
shop for fabric. But the number of online sellers of
high-quality cloth has also grown since the first
edition appeared. I maintain an updated list of these
online merchants on the Sicilian Reserve blog.
Vintage 1960s E. Thomas fresco

After my first visit to this cloth merchant in 2011, I
returned again in 2017 for a follow-up. I stopped by
first thing in the morning and had a nice chat with the
owner Domenico. This is a family owned business
opened by his grandfather and managed to survive the
great 1908 earthquake. The business has been housed
in a couple of different locations since its opening.
The store is an authorized seller of Zegna, Loro
Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Holland & Sherry,
Scabal, Cerruti and Guabello. It no longer carries
Dormeuil which appears to have changed or perhaps
De Pasquale Drapperie discontinued distribution in Sicily. You could
Via Maddalena 62 conceivably research and pinpoint a specific swatch
Messina before your trip and then order it here through the
Tel: +39 090 718485 store without having to bring the cloth with you.
Hours: Monday 4pm-8pm, Tuesday-Saturday Domenico notes that mills today often weave
9am-1pm, 4pm-8pm. Also opened the Sunday of fabrics in Super 150 or higher fibers. The store also
Christmas. keeps and maintains a stock of fabrics which have
accumulated over the years. The owner showed me
Page 93
Sourcing Your Cloth

linens and flannels from twenty years ago: Reid & There is a very good case for the role of a
Taylor (Silver Gander, Sportex) and Salisbury. De drapperia. It is about seeing and feeling the fabric at
Pasquale carries two types of in-stock flannel, a large scale, going from a swatch book offering a few
lighter 300-340g (H&S) and a heavier 400g weight. inches to a full bolt of fabric. He says touching,
When I visited a few years ago, I saw a very nice feeling and seeing the fabric in full width makes for a
summerweight hopsack world of difference for the
(EUR 85 per meter) and tailors and obviously for
various Drapers customers as well. I agree!
jacketings (EUR 110 per
meter). Raffi Foderami
Out of curiosity I Via E.L. Pellegrino 70
asked about their oldest Messina
vintage fabric and Linings, trimmings and
Domenico walked to the specialty fabrics.
back room and pulled
out a 50 year old fresco Dany
from E. Thomas, an Via dei Mille 89
Italian mill founded in Messina
1922. Buttons for men and women’s
He said that 220 clothing and accessories.
tailors were working in
Messina in the 1960s. Francesco Scoglio
The area also had 15 Via dei Mille 154
apparel factories at the Messina
time. Now there are only Source for non-traditional
ten tailors and one linings and specialty fabrics.
drapperia left.
So what is a Salvo Tessuti
drapperia? In Italy, a Viale Libertà 168
drapperia sells only fabric for men’s clothing as Catania
opposed to a laneria which is for women’s textiles. A source for Caccioppoli shirting priced from
The owner knows of perhaps only three remaining EUR 40-60. The store also sells novelty silks (Ruffo
drapperie in Italy and his shop in Messina is one of Coli Tessuto) which could be used for jacket linings.
them.
Page 94
Sourcing Your Cloth

In Catania, you can also find fabric and G. Benevento
trimmings shops on via Alessandro Mazzoni near Via Strada Nova 3991
the Piazza Duomo. Venice
Tel +39 041 5220901
Pietro Zio The store primarily sells textiles for home
Via Sant’Agostino 91 furnishings but also a selection of apparel fabrics.
Palermo
Carries a range of woven and printed silks which Tip Top Fabrics
could be used as novelty jacket lining but not tie silks 232 Calyer St
unfortunately. Brooklyn
In Palermo, two streets - Via Sant’Agostino and Tel +1 (718) 609-1506
Via Bandiera - are home to a number of textiles Tip Top is my primary source for men’s
shops such as Ardizzone Tessuti that sell silks and jacketing, suiting and shirting cloths - the drapperia
probably linings and shirting cloth as well. of NYC if you will. A hidden gem in the true sense of
the word. Not well known to the general public but
Giorgio Roccasalva well known to those in the trade and knowledgeable
Via Fosso Tantillo 20 consumers.
Modica Tip Top offers a constantly refreshed inventory
Recommended by the Licitra family in Ragusa. of cashmere, worsted wools and woolens, natural
This is a fabric shop located near the historic center blends (silk/linen/wool), cotton shirtings, tie silks,
of Modica. linings and more from leading mills, merchants and
brands in England and Italy.
Il Vecchio Drappiere
Via Meravigli 16
Milan
Tel +39 02 866634
Website: www.ilvecchiodrappiere.it/
The rare drapperia selling cloth for men’s suits,
jackets, trousers and outerwear.
Page 95
Planning Your Trip

Language hotel. Expect to pay “tourist” rates For instance, in May 2017,
With rare exceptions, very few of EUR 50 per hour or more. Norwegian Air started service
tailors speak English or have an Airlines and flights between New York and Rome and
English-speaking person on Readers living in Europe enjoy will start flights between Los
premise. I hired translators to help the most options. In this age of Angeles and Rome in November
me in my various field trips in airline deregulation, a number of 2017. Alitalia is adding year-round
Palermo, Catania and Messina. direct, low-cost options exist to take service to LAX as well. From Rome
However, it may not be necessary to you to Sicily from almost anywhere you can take an easyJet or Alitalia
hire a translator, since a good deal of in Europe. flight to Sicily.
the heavy lifting and due diligence is Otherwise, you will need to take
captured in a long haul
this guide. flight to
But you Europe and
should be then connect
prepared to do to Palermo or
a few things. Catania, the
This includes two largest
bringing an airports. This
example or too is
wearing what becoming an
you'd like to attractive
have made (or option thanks
showing to low cost
photos), and carriers
using a entering the
translation app transatlantic
as described A delightfully simple, fresh antipasto in Syracuse market.
below. Primera Air
Also, be a sensible tourist and For those living outside of announced low-cost service from
invest some time learning basic Europe, only a handful of direct EWR or BOS to London,
conversational Italian (including international flights into Sicily exist. Birmingham and Paris starting
numbers for pricing and greetings For example, Meridiana flies a April 2018.
for breaking the ice). seasonal route from JFK to Palermo. There are two more
If you wish to hire a translator, But more low-cost airlines are international airports in Sicily. The
check with the front desk of your starting to enter the transatlantic third largest airport is in western
market to Italy and enabling you to Sicily, Trapani-Birgi, which is
take a connecting flight to Sicily.
Page 96
Planning Your Trip

Ryanair’s major hub on the island. • Palermo - Messina: 233 km Trains tend to be less
In the southeastern province of (138 miles) dependable and generally slower for
Ragusa, Comiso airport opened in • Palermo - Catania: 207 km the longer distances. But they are
2013, serviced year round by (129 miles) fine for shorter distances like
Ryanair and seasonally by Alitalia • Messina - Catania: 97 km (60 Messina to Catania.
and others. miles) For longer distances, taxis are
Connecting to Sicily • Messina - Taormina: 52 km an expensive, but convenient option
• London Gatwick to Palermo: (32 miles) (e.g. Catania to Taormina one way is
easyJet • Catania - Taormina: 54 km about EUR 80). Some taxi drivers
• Milan Malpensa to Catania: (34 miles) have a fare book listing fixed fares
easyJet, Ryanair between cities, which you can ask to
• Milan Malpensa to see.
Palermo: easyJet Renting a car is another
• Rome to Palermo: option although I avoided
Alitalia, Ryanair, Vueling this due to the hassle of
• Rome to Catania: parking and dealing with
Alitalia, Ryanair, Vueling urban traffic, especially in
Palermo and Catania.
Websites
• booking.com. The Intercity buses
most comprehensive • SAIS. The bus routes of
inventory for booking Palermo-Messina and
hotels and B&Bs globally Palermo-Catania take
and offers very good about two hours 45
selection in Sicily. In the minutes one way. Catania-
last few years I have Messina is 90 minutes one
managed all my No trip to Sicily is complete without trying an arancino way.
accommodations on • Interbus. Catania-
Intercity travel (buses, taxes, car Taormina takes about 70 minutes
booking.com.
rentals)
• Vayama. Good source of one way due to local stops.
I relied mostly on the reliable,
inexpensive flights from Italy to Car rentals
air-conditioned intercity buses
Sicily for roughly $200-300 round • AutoEuropa
(SAIS for Palermo-Messina-
trip. Trip duration & timing
Catania, Interbus for Catania-
• easyJet. Connections to Plan your initial trip to last
Taormina-Messina) and AST
Palermo and Catania via London, seven to ten days if you wish to pick
(Ragusa-Modica).
Milan and other European cities. up a completed initial jacket or suit
Travel distances before you leave. This is the ideal
Page 97
Planning Your Trip

scenario and assumes a CMT these seasonal sales offering Fay, Peuterey and Barbour in sizes
situation where the cloth is ready to significant discounts from 30 to 70 that are not sold in the U.S. markets.
be dropped off on your initial visit. percent. If you want to maximize overall
However, a second trip may be The advantage of shopping in value for money, perhaps the best
necessary. For instance, if the tailor Italy is that brands like Fay and time to visit is off-season during the
is particularly busy or if no Herno that are more difficult to find winter. Not only will you benefit
appointment or contact was made in the U.S. (and probably outside from winter sales, you can take
prior to your visit, a advantage of lower hotel
separate trip may be rates and airfares.
required to complete the Shipping
initial order. If the tailor In the first edition, I
needs to order cloth, recommended against
delivery of the initial shipping garments from
order may take longer Sicily due to a perceived
than ten days. In short, risk of lost packages
be prepared to schedule and/or custom duties.
a follow-up visit to Sicily However, I believe it is
as circumstances now feasible to find and
require. use reliable, cost-
Also keep in mind effective shipping
that many workshops services from Sicily to
close for one to two your home country.
weeks in August for the In fact, your tailor
summer holiday. should be able to ship a
Tasty strawberry granita with whipped cream at Caffe
Lastly, if you are package back home for a
L’Incontro in Modica
planning to do a reasonable fee. For
significant amount of RTW the E.U.) will go on sale and with
example, I used a shipping specialist
shopping, you should consider potentially better availability in
in Messina to send a package using
timing your trip with the two certain size ranges.
Posta Raccomandata, a shipping
biggest sales (saldi) periods in Italy For example, I saw sales of 40 to
service operated by Poste Italiane.
which occur every winter and 70 percent off in the first weekend of
My suit was shipped from
summer. In Sicily, these usually run January. During a summer trip, I Messina to New York in three
from early January to March and saw sales of 30 percent off in the last
business days for about EUR 50
from early July to September. Most weekend of August. Over the years, including customs and insurance
apparel stores from department I have picked up discounted
covering the price of the suit.
stores to boutiques participate in accessories (e.g. lightweight scarves)
and excellent outerwear pieces from Weather and air quality
Page 98
Planning Your Trip

If you're planning to visit in July in full upon delivery with some which uses the lowest daily real
or August, equip yourself exceptions for deposits (Zacco). exchange rate and minimizes any
appropriately for the Mediterranean For U.S. residents, be sure to additional fees. TransferWise covers
sun and heat. Sunglasses, sunscreen confirm any daily withdrawal limits a growing number of supported
and a hat, if you usually wear one, with your bank before you leave, as countries in North America, Europe
are a must. well as notify your credit card and Asia. Revolut offers a similar
If you and your travel providers about your overseas service.
companions have allergy and air travel. Smartphones and tablets
pollution sensitivities, you may find Once you have established a If you don’t speak Italian,
it useful to download the Air working relationship with a traveling with your smartphone and
Matters app (see below). preferred tailor or group of tailors, an translation app is required.
Luggage and packing you may decide to pay subsequent Generally speaking, you’ll have the
If you plan to most flexibility if you
travel between cities equip your
by bus, you can pack smartphone and/or
a 21-22 inch rolling tablet with a SIM card
carry-on suitcase and and voice/data plan
a carry-on shoulder from a European or
bag. The intercity Italian carrier.
buses have self- If you reside in the
service storage U.S. and have a
compartments facing qualifying T-Mobile
curbside for storing or Sprint plan, you
large bags. may have unlimited
Alternatively, you can pack two orders remotely. In this 2G/3G data roaming in the E.U.
arrangement, you’ll need to send
smaller, carry-on tote-sized bags which could be enough to suit your
payments electronically (i.e. bank
that can fit in the overhead shelves purposes. Check with your provider.
inside the bus. Interior storage in wire or transfer). International wire
E.U. voice/data plans
transfers can incur significant
buses is limited to an overhead shelf Effective June 15, 2017, the
surcharges due to hidden currency
which has a narrow clearance of European Union has banned most
around six inches. conversion and handling fees.
roaming fees and charges. This
However, this can be avoided by
Banking, cash and credit cards means you can pick up a SIM card
linking your bank account to
Very few tailors, if any, accept in one E.U. member state and use it
emerging payment providers.
credit cards. Until recently, I have across Europe without incurring
I have used and can recommend
paid all of my orders in cash, usually additional roaming charges.
TransferWise (app and website)
Page 99
Planning Your Trip

In my case, I use a daily pre- Smartphone and iPad apps smartphones. Download and
paid plan from Orange Spain • Google Translate. An update offline maps of
(Mundo SIM with Go Europe indispensable app to translate Palermo, Catania, Messina and
option). Daily plans offer the into Italian via voice or text. other towns before visiting
most flexibility for short visits Normally needs a data plan to Sicily. This cuts down on data
since you are only billed for the use all features but you can also usage as map data is stored
days you use your plan. With the download specific language locally on the phone.
Orange Mundo SIM, topping up pair dictionaries for text-only • Apple Maps. Not quite as
can be done online accurate as Google
and the SIM is Maps in Sicily but it
valid as long as it is integrated into
has been used or the Apple iOS
topped up in the ecosystem.
last year. I used the •Air Matters. A free
excellent Wikia global air quality
website to choose monitoring app
this particular plan. which recently
But remember added data feeds to
to turn off data monitoring stations
roaming in the in Sicily. Useful if
cellular settings as a you and your travel
precaution. companion have
If you’re allergies or
planning to buy sensitivities to air
your SIM in Sicily Superb panna cotta at Ristorante Pizzeria Margo in Palermo quality.
or Italy, the three translation. • PDF readers. This e-
main providers are Vodafone, • Apple Siri Translate. book is formatted as a PDF file
TIM and Wind Tre. I have Arriving in autumn 2017 with and is optimized for the iPad.
previously used Vodafone, which iOS 11, Siri will be updated to However, you can use any
has excellent connectivity in all provide voice translation into mobile device with a PDF
the cities I visited and on the multiple language pairs viewer/reader such as
highways. including English/Italian. Will GoodReader ($4.99),
Be sure to check out the most likely require a data plan. Notability ($9.99) and Adobe
useful Wikia resource page for • Google Maps. Free and Acrobat (free).
Italy before choosing your Italy often pre-installed on
SIM card.
Page 100
Afterword: To the Tailors

For over twenty-five centuries we’ve been bearing often a willing and eager participant and consumer
the weight of superb and heterogeneous of this packaged artifice.
civilizations, all from outside, none made by For the bespoke artisan, the key is not to blindly
ourselves, none that we could call our own…
chase and cater to logo-driven luxury consumers.
- Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, The Leopard
They are at best useful vectors to your real customer.
Your primary ally is a different type of person or
It could be said that Instagram and social media
persons. The most obvious is the connoisseur, a
saved the menswear industry by enabling the
more discerning and knowledgeable consumer who
hashtag #menswear. Visual consumption is now
almost a necessary pre-condition for commercial appreciates the origin of things, their relationship to
places and the story behind the product or service.
success for apparel brands.
As Sicilian tailors shift
This is even becoming
relevant to tailored, away from local clientele
and start looking outward,
bespoke clothing. Yet
the connoisseur and
traditional bespoke
tailoring is still facing related customers will
help drive a new phase of
economic and
growth for your business.
demographic pressure.
The challenges are This shift is a matter of
survival. At the moment it
considerable. As has been
is critical to attract foreign
pointed out before, the
economics of bespoke is customers. Already a few
tailors - Caponetto, Crimi,
directly limited by its lack
Davi and Sartoria
of “scalability”. For
entrepreneurs and Concetto Modica - have
“crossed the chasm” and
investors, this means the
reoriented their business to
lack of a clear path to reaping the kind of margins
found in successful luxury brands that produce attract foreigners. This can be done very effectively
through recommendation-based word of mouth
thousands or millions of ready-to-wear goods in
among high net worth (HNW) individuals. It’s also a
modern factories yet still convey an image of
low-risk strategy since word-of-mouth
desirability, artisanality and exclusivity to
recommendation is the gold standard in certain
consumers. In the end, luxury does not necessarily
social circles. HNW individuals value discretion,
imply bespoke and in many cases they do not
service and uniqueness. In other words, you
overlap.
In certain contexts, this sleight of hand might be recommend only someone you trust to peers and
friends.
called a bait and switch. But the luxury consumer is
Page 101
Afterword: To the Tailors

Other tailors are beginning to transition to this Find a way to offer English language capability.
model and are rebalancing their customer mix with The logic is quite simple. High net-worth clients
more foreign clients. I would put Arrigo and are much more likely to speak English than Italian.
Palmisciano in this category. • Find and engage the younger generation to
Then there are tailors who still primarily serve ensure business continuity and impart confidence
local clientele but whose skills and talent really to customers
deserve a broader market (i.e. virtually all the • Continue cultivating intergenerational
remaining tailors profiled). They may provide knowledge transfer among tailors (e.g. Forbici
extraordinary value for money but are less well d’Oro)
known or require more effort to pull off. • Rebuild and cultivate local, regional and
Given the exceptional talent and experience of national clientele
Sicilian tailors, I believe the
it may be last two points
tempting to are the next
think they will major
endure despite challenges for
it all. But in an Sicilian tailors
age of who wish to
automation thrive in the
there is long run.
certainly no In the end, a
guarantee. Sicilian tailor
So what should never
should Sicilian lose that
tailors do? It is connection to
said that dispensing free advice is perhaps worse other Sicilians and Italians - customers, teachers,
than giving no advice at all. That, I trust, is not the friends, colleagues and other tailors - who helped
case here. grow their business and define what Sicilian tailoring
As a catalyst to engaging tailors on this topic, I looks and feels like today.
offer a few preliminary thoughts: Sicilian tailoring has earned a special place and
• Grow organically with your customers meaning in the tradition of Western tailoring that no
through word-of-mouth other school of tailoring can claim. As long as the
• Engage in but don’t overdo digital marketing tailors on this unique island recognize and value this
and social media heritage as their own, any talk of a golden age
• Develop greater consistency and service to receding permanently into the past is still,
retain your most valuable customers. Example: thankfully, premature.
Page 102
Appendix: Tailoring Archive
The tailors featured here are no longer working, In fact, the archive could be expanded even
having either retired or passed away. Rather than further as it omits tailors I met or spoke with but did
removing their entries for the new edition, I decided not include in the first or second edition.
to keep them as a historical reference and personal I will leave that to a future project.
aide-memoire of my past journeys.
Page 103
Palermo
Giuseppe Ferina
Via Parisi Enrico 38 better access to the rest of Italy. Ferina is one of them.
Tel +39 091 332 007 He trained north in San Remo near Genoa and also
worked with Caraceni and the designer Fontana sisters
Vitals in Rome. One of the framed certificates on the wall
• Estimated time for initial jacket: Four days indicates he won his first Forbici d'Oro in 1968 in
• Number of fittings: Three Milan.
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes Ferina had several finished and try-on examples on
• Price (CMT): Did not ask but most likely EUR display when I visited including a “tight” (or morning
500-1,000 for a jacket using customer supplied cloth coat in English) and a cashmere tweed jacket. I think I
saw the Caraceni influence on the 3 button cashmere
Pros tweed jacket. Clean lines but relaxed. On the try-on
• Accepts customer cloth
• Known tailoring pedigree (i.e. Caraceni)
• Can make traditional and softer shoulders
• Friendly and gregarious
Cons
Based on my visits, it seems the tailors in Palermo

tend to have trained outside of Sicily, perhaps owing to
Ferina’s in-stock cloth (left); Ferina and author standing outside the workshop (right)
Page 104
Giuseppe Ferina
jackets, I noticed the padding of the
lapels was very neat and regular. He
then pulled out quite a few photos
and old magazines which showed
black and white photos of different
tailors and their sample jackets from
all over Italy.
Signore Ferina is quite the raconteur.
In less than 30 minutes, we talked
via a translator about the old ways of
the Sicilian nobility, the lamentable
state of higher education, Enrico
Fermi, and a few other sundry topics
of a historical and/or political
nature. He has an international
clientele including a couple of
Americans living in San Francisco
and some of the diplomatic corps
stationed in Palermo. He also seems
to have developed a reputation
outside of Italy, evidenced by a letter
he pulled out from a Japanese
customer inquiring about his
tailoring. To top things off, he
graciously offered us a coffee nearby.
In a future trip, I hope to try Ferina
since what I saw looked quite
promising.
Morning coat or “tight” in progress
Page 105
Catania
Salvatore Giuffrida
Via Giovanni Lavaggi 43 My sense is that he meant the styling choices of a jacket
Tel +39 095 715 8207 rather than the construction and cutting method,
which, similar to his peers, is mostly handmade and
Vitals handsewn. His sample jackets were mostly three button
• Estimated time for initial jacket: One week jackets that looked very much at home in a
• Number of fittings: Two (if necessary, can do just one conservative business setting.
fitting) Although Giuffrida didn't quite understand why I
• Customer supplied cloth: Yes was visiting, whether it was placing an order or
• Price (CMT): Jacket EUR 600, suit EUR 800 (see learning more about his shop, he was very courteous
commentary below) throughout my visit. In addition, the logistics of setting
up an appointment through my translator went very
Pros
• Well-recognized, established tailor
• Works with at least one partner (a coatmaker) on
premise
Cons
• Not located centrally in the city
• Variable pricing but within an acceptable range
Giuffrida is a friend and contemporary of Nello

Caponetto, and, from what I gleaned with the help of
my interpreters, the pair considers themselves the most
historically significant tailors in the city of Catania.
Giuffrida also made a point of noting that there are
only four tailors in Catania who are members of the
Italian national tailoring academy and he is one of
them.
Similar to Caponetto, Giuffrida gave me a quick
tour of the cutting room in the back where I met his
colleague, a coatmaker who was working on a jacket.
He emphasized that he cuts a more modern style
although it was not clear what he meant by modern. Sample three button jacket
Page 106
Salvatore Giuffrida
More customer jackets in progress
smoothly. If you intend to visit, I would recommend

that you visit with the clear intention of ordering.
Finally, pricing was somewhat variable, which
echoed my experience with Caponetto. By the end of
my visit, Giuffrida quoted me EUR 600 for a jacket and
EUR 800 for a suit (both CMT).
If you don't mind the somewhat fluid pricing and
find his style appealing, I believe the variability in
pricing is pretty benign, all things considered. Among
Catanese tailors, EUR 600 is definitely within the
ballpark of reasonability for a CMT jacket.
Page 107
References
Battista, Anna. The Sicilian Tailoring School. http:// Norwich, John Julius. Sicily: An Island at the
irenebrination.typepad.com/ Crossroads of History. Random House, 2015.
irenebrination_notes_on_a/2010/05/tailoring-
sicilian-school.html, May 7, 2010. Virgil, The Eclogues. Internet Classics Archive,
classics.mit.edu/Virgil/eclogue.html.
Benjamin, Sandra. Sicily: Three Thousand Years of
Human History. Steerforth Press, 2006.
Borgese, Giuseppe Antonio. Una Sicilia senza

aranci. Avagliano Editore, 2005.
Bufalino, Gesualdo (trans. Patrick Creagh). Blind

Argus or the Fables of the Memory. HarperCollins,
1993.
Cicero, Marcus Tullius (ed. C.D. Yonge). Against

Verres. George Bell & Sons, 1903,
www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?
doc=Perseus:text:
1999.02.0018:text=Ver.:actio=2:book=4:section=117
Farrell, Joseph. Sicily: A Cultural History. Interlink

Books, 2014.
Gallo, Antonella. The Coppola Returns. http://

www.bestofsicily.com/mag/art116.htm, 2004.
von Goethe, Johann Wolfgang. Italienische Reise.

http://www.gutenberg.net/etext/2404, 1816-17.
di Lampedusa, Giuseppe Tomasi (trans. Archibald

Colquhuon). The Leopard. Pantheon, 2013 [1960].
Page 108
About the Author

Juhn Maing is an author, entrepreneur and
consultant. He is the founder of Sicilian Reserve, a
new lean bespoke concept channeling the last secret
left in masculine tailoring (hint: the subject of this
guide).
With experience in technology, consulting and
luxury goods, Juhn has co-founded a software
startup, consulted for Global 250 companies and
advised clients on business and technology issues. He
recently spent a yearlong sabbatical in Paris studying
and consulting for luxury brands, including the Swiss
luxury watchmaker Audemars Piguet on their
Greater China strategy.
He currently resides in New York City and is an
alumnus of Stanford University, the University of
Chicago and ESSEC Business School.
For the latest on Sicilian Reserve, follow
@sicilianreserve on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook
and learn more at www.sicilianreserve.com.
For general inquiries, the author can be reached
at sleevehead@gmail.com.
To order additional copies in PDF, paperback or
hardcover, visit www.sleevehead.org/sgst2.
To connect to SGST readers and artisans, visit
Sleevehead Forum.
To support Sicilian tailors and artisans, visit us at
www.sleevehead.org/support.
Page 109
Lines and curves in an interior staircase of the Arab-Norman Palace (Palazzo dei Normanni) in Palermo.
Sicilian tailoring is based on a sartorial reckoning that appreciates curves but respects lines.
Praise for the First Edition

"Very impressive, well written and balanced advice. All in all, this is the definitive
guide to the subject, all the information any man will need."
- Bruce Boyer
"An extremely serious and thorough guide, the first of its kind to report on bespoke
Sicilian tailors, offering not only well-documented descriptions of each house, but
also all you need to know to plan your trip."
- Hugo Jacomet, Parisian Gentleman

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A Survey of Sicilian Tailors and Contemporary

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SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Preface to the Second Edition

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Preface to the Second Edition

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Preface to the Second Edition

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Preface to the Second Edition

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Teatro Massimo in Palermo

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Tailoring Strategies in Context

Figure 1: Overview of modern tailoring strategies

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Tailoring Strategies in Context

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Tailoring Strategies in Context

Figure 2: Classification of tailors by tailoring strategies

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Tailoring Strategies in Context

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Tailoring Strategies in Context

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

A Note on Sicilian Tailors

The Infantolino tailoring house. Photo credit: Media M Archive

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

A Note on Sicilian Tailors

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

A Note on Sicilian Tailors

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

A Note on Sicilian Tailors

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Palermo’s Cathedral (Duomo)

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

White tie formal dress

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Street entrance to the sartoria

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

An array of women’s and men’s jackets

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

unique among Palermitan tailors and

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS

Customer’s jacket at fitting stage

SLEEVEHEAD’S GUIDE TO SICILIAN TAILORS