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CUTTING BREAST-PADDED
BODICE
Using the various methods of Princess seams

Quincy Kanayo
THEQEFFECTZ
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CUTTING BREAST-PADDED BODICE

(Pattern-drafting)

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COPYRIGHT©TheQEffectz
Please note that the copyright Law of Nigeria Section 15(1) forbids the reproduction,
reduplication and sale of this downloadable and when defaulted is punishable by law. So
please be kind not to infringe this copyright.

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Table of Contents
Copyright .............................................................................................................................. 3
Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 5
What is a breast padded bodice ......................................................................................... 5
Methods of Drafting breast-padded bodice ....................................................................... 5
“Via Armhole” ............................................................................................................ 7
“Via Shoulder ......................................................................................................... 16
“Via Neckline” .......................................................................................................... 24
Conclusion ......................................................................................................................... 33

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Introduction
Hi there,
My name is Quincy. I’ll be taking you on this tutorial. Thank you for viewing/downloading this
tutorial. This tutorial is both Beginner and Intermediate friendly.
In Nigeria and most African countries, breast-padded bodice (also called ‘Saree’ in India) are
the most currently made bodices/blouses for women. These designs are known to enhance
the feminine structure of women especially at the bust region and have been known to provide
more comfort and ease. By attaching breast pads or already-made breast cups to these
outfits, the wearer does not need to wear a bra or any bust support.
It is one of the most prominent bodice/ blouses in Nigeria and as a sewist, to be taken
seriously, it is important you know how to make such outfits.
So in this tutorial, I will not only show you how to draft a breast padded bodice using the
various princess seams, I’ll also show you when to apply these methods to achieve a desired
result and which is ideal for various bust sizes.
See other extended breast padded tutorials like
HOW TO MAKE A NET PADDED PEPLUM BLOUSE PATTERN,
HOW TO MAKE A NET-PADDED PLEATED BLOUSE PATTERN,
HOW TO MAKE A PADDED LACE EMBROIDERED BLOUSE (WITH A SIDE PEPLUM)
HOW TO MAKE A BREAST PADDED OFF SHOULDER SIX PIECES DRESS (WITH FISH
TAIL)
HOW TO MAKE A BREAST PADDED OFF-SHOULDER SIX PIECES DRESS (WITH PUFF
SLEEVES)
HOW TO MAKE A BREAST PADDED BLOUSE USING ALREADY-MADE BREAST CUPS
HOW TO MAKE A BREAST-PADDED SIX PIECES BLOUSE

What Is A Breast-Padded Bodice?

A breast padded bodice as already mentioned in the introduction, is a bodice that is

demarcated/slashed in such a way to include artificial breast pads or cups. This way, the
bodice is shaped and completely enhanced at the bust region, thus the wearer of the bodice
does not have to wear bra straps to use the bodice.

Methods of Drafting Breast Padded Bodice

The pattern-drafting technique used to achieve a breast-padded bodice is called the Slash
and Reduce method of pattern-making a.k.a Princess seam/Dart.
Princess seam/dart is a slash and reduce method of patternmaking that involves demarcating
or slashing the bodice in an effort to add more shape to the bodice. There are several ways
of inserting a princess seam/dart and these include
• Via armhole
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• Via shoulder
• Via neckline
Even though these methods can be applied interchangeably, they can be used to achieve
various and diverse results.
For instance, the “Via armhole” and “Via shoulder” methods are mostly used to add fittings to
the blouses, jackets, shirts and literally anything with a shoulder and armhole while the “Via
neckline” method is used mostly for corset/ bustier outfits or blouses popularly known as “tube”
blouses. It ensures that the blouses stay firmly on the wearer’s body without the help of
shoulders or armholes.

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“VIA
ARMHOLE”

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This method of princess seam or dart ensures that the slashing of the bodice begins from the
armhole. One-eight of the wearer’s bust measurement is measured at the armscye and
inserted at the armhole. This way, the bodice is able to be shaped to the wearer’s features
from the armhole.

This method is used mostly when the shoulders of the bodice is not to be altered in anyway
and the idea of design is probably to add a contrast color or design to the sides of the bodice.

This method of princess seam/dart is the most common as it allows the bodice to be fitted to
literally all size of busts and it is mostly used to add shape to shirts, blouses, jackets etc.

Requirements
To insert a princess seam, you will need the following

1. Basic bodice block:

A basic bodice block is a template from which other designs or styles of bodice are
constructed. It is the lowest and most basic style of bodice that consists of a front and
back piece already constructed using a defined body measurement.

Don’t know how to make a basic bodice? please visit here.

2. New pattern paper: These could be newspaper, brown paper, cardboard paper, scrap
fabric etc
3. Pen/Pencil/Marker/Eraser
4. Rulers (Straight and French curves)
5. Measuring tape
6. Measuring table
7. Body statistics: The required body measurement needed to adjust your basic bodice
to a armhole princess seam are as follows.

• Under bust measurement: Place your measuring tape on your client’s bust
point (nipple point) and measure the distance between the nipple point and
under the bust.
Using me as an example, my under-bust measurement is 3.5 inches.

• Bust measurement: Place your measuring tape around your client’s bust and
measure the circumference.
Using me as an example, my bust measurement is 38 inches.

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Procedures
Step 1: Place your basic bodice block on your measuring table.

Step 2: Mark out the required body levels: Bust and under-bust level. In this case, the
under-bust level is 3.5 inches from the bust level (see requirement)

Step 3: At the bust level, from the folded side, measure 1/8 of your bust measurement or
that of a client’s at both the front and back piece and mark.

Using me as an example, my bust measurement is 38 inches.

38 inches ÷ 8 = 4.75inches

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Step 4: Then from the bottom of the armscye, also measure 1/8 of your bust measurement
or that of your client’s at both the front and back piece and mark.

Step 5: Extend the mark made at your bust level to the bottom of your bodice.

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Step 6: At the under-bust level, measure 1 inch at both sides of the mark, at both the front
and back piece.

Then extend the marks made to the bottom of the bodice as shown.

Step 7: Then at the mark made at the armscye, measure 0.5inch at both sides of the mark
at the front and back piece

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Conclusion
I hope the tutorial was easy enough to understand and well-explained. See here, to download
other pattern-making tutorials and sewing tutorials and also to get sewing machines,
sewing tools and supplies and E-patterns. If however, you have questions, kindly send us
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