Skincare can be hard to keep up with.

It seems like there’s always a new product to try or

ingredient to discover or formulation that’s waiting to blow your mind. Case in point:
mandelic acid—the ingredient that’s been cropping up on skincare labels from brands across
the globe. But should you care? Here’s the question to ask yourself: have you always been
afraid to dip your toes into the world of chemical exfoliants? Or perhaps you’ve tried them
and decided they were too strong for your skin? If you’re on the hunt for a gentle AHA,
mandelic acid could be just what you need.

What is it?
Mandelic acid is an AHA or ‘alpha hydroxy acid’—a group of acids, mostly plant-derived,
that work as chemical exfoliants in skincare. The most common AHAs are glycolic acid
that’s derived from sugarcane and lactic acid that’s sourced from milk, or can even be
synthetically produced. The former is known for being the gold standard, potent exfoliating
acid, whereas the latter held the title (thus far) for being the gentler acid. Enter: mandelic
acid. Derived from almonds, this particular AHA is meant to be the mildest of them all. It has
a higher molecular weight than both glycolic and lactic acid, which means that it penetrates
the epidermis slower than other AHAs.

What can it do for your skin?

All AHAs help shed old skin cells and increase cell turnover. Over time, this can help
diminish hyperpigmentation and leave you with revitalised, radiant skin. They also promote
collagen production, therefore improving the elasticity of skin and making it appear firmer,
with fewer fine lines. Additionally, they help smooth unevenness in skin tone and texture.
Mandelic acid does all this and a little more. As its molecules are larger and heavier, it takes
longer to seep into the skin. This makes it very gentle, even on sensitive skin. The potential
for irritation is lower than with other AHAs. While it is kinder to your skin, its chemical
structure is similar to that of salicylic acid (a powerful beta hydroxy acid that’s known for its
uses in treating spots and clogged pores). This is why it’s oil-soluble, unlike other AHAs that
are water-soluble. What does this mean for your skin? To begin with, it works well on oily
skin. But more specifically, it can dissolve into the oil in your pores and help control sebum
production, which can prevent acne and clogged pores.

How can you incorporate it into your routine?

There are many ways to reap the benefits of mandelic acid. However, if you’re introducing
AHAs into your routine for the first time, it’s best to be cautious and slow. Always start with
a patch test and then use it once a week to begin with, in the form of a toner, serum or
treatment. As acids can sometimes be mildly drying on the skin, it’s a good idea to use it
along with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid. If your skin is irritated or damaged, it’s
best to avoid the ingredient until your skin has healed. As AHAs can increase your skin’s
sensitivity to the sun, make sure you don’t skip sunscreen the day after use.