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SEPARATE SECTION
3 Taxi app plans switch to HK 3 Beijing accelerates US decoupling 3 Tech shares decline
RYAN MCMORROW — BEIJING tradable shares . . . on another interna- the biggest listing by a Chinese company IPO, Chinese regulators signalled that
SUN YU — SHANGHAI
TOM MITCHELL — SINGAPORE
tionally recognised stock exchange.” in the US since Alibaba in 2014. other companies hoping to follow suit
Didi’s shares fell nearly 17 per cent by Days later, regulators ordered Didi’s would be subject to more stringent pro-
Chinese ride-hailing group Didi Chux- midday in New York yesterday. Hong app to be taken off Chinese app stores. It cedures, especially if they managed data
ing is delisting from the New York Stock Kong’s Hang Seng Tech index fell as was also banned from signing new users that was deemed sensitive by Beijing.
Exchange, accelerating China’s decou- much as 2.7 per cent after the news and and subjected to a government investi- Didi’s IPO, which was completed the
pling from US capital markets as Beijing Alibaba by as much as 5.4 per cent. gation into its cyber security practices. Didi Chuxing week before the Chinese Communist
cracks down on the country’s leading “This is the nail in the coffin for The group’s shares have nearly halved launched its party celebrated its centennial, angered
technology groups. decoupling in equity markets between from the June IPO price of $14 to $7.80 at $4.4bn New party and government officials who Festive wines
The company, which has been hit by
increased regulatory scrutiny in China,
the US and China,” said Andrew Collier
at Orient Capital Research in Hong
the New York close on Thursday.
While big Chinese state-owned enter-
York IPO in June
and days later
believed the group had brushed aside
concerns related to national security.
Jancis Robinson’s best whites
yesterday said it would begin delisting Kong. “[Regulators] are being pushed to prises listed in the US have been tar- Beijing ordered “After this high-profile listing turned LIFE & ARTS
and prepare to go public in Hong Kong. do this because Xi Jinping has clearly geted by the Biden and Trump adminis- its removal from out to be a huge mistake, all Chinese
Didi said that its board had authorised taken a very nationalist tone in terms of trations with investment bans, New Chinese app companies will think twice about going
the delisting in New York of its Ameri- capital flows, particularly from the US.” York remained an attractive destination stores to New York,” said Chen Long at Ple-
can depositary shares while ensuring Didi launched its $4.4bn New York for China’s private-sector tech groups. num, a Beijing-based consultancy.
they would be “convertible into freely initial public offering in June, making it In the immediate aftermath of Didi’s Lex and The Long View page 18
Learning curve
Hunt is on for
Omicron data How To Spend It
Pupils line up at the Kgololo Academy
on “Spirit Day” in Johannesburg’s Alex-
Fashion special
andra township this week. The Omicron SEPARATE MAGAZINE
variant of coronavirus, first discovered
in South Africa, has been linked to a
substantial rise in reinfections in the
country compared with previous waves,
according to the first detailed study into
the heavily mutated strain.
Policymakers and the public around
the world are still desperate for more
information about the new variant and
whether vaccines will still work.
Rise in reinfections page 2
Big Read page 6
FT View page 8
South Africa diary Life & Arts
Jerome Delay/AP
INTERNATIONAL
South Africa
WORLD|
Omicron linked to rise in reinfections
WEEK IN REVIEW| Health ministry says The higher reinfections detected were rose to more than 4,800 as of this week, The While either the Beta or Delta waves
“consistent with the timing of the emer- compared with just a few hundred cases were not associated with an elevated
new cases are increasing gence of the Omicron variant in South in mid-November, scientists said yester- findings risk of reinfection, the risk of reinfec-
SARAH WHITE — PARIS try. Relations between France and the ANDREW ENGLAND — LONDON Iran resumed EU-brokered talks in
Europe has become the big target for cross-border
dealmaking, as US companies ride a Trump-fuelled
equity market rally to hunt for bargains across the
HOW DRIVERLESS
OF THE TECHNOLOGY IS
Atlantic.— PAGE 15; CHINA CURBS HIT DEALS, PAGE 17
UAE have strengthened as Macron and Vienna this week with the E3, China and
non-urgent operations and for A&E treatment while
by Brexit surge
some surgical procedures will be scrapped.— PAGE 4 Censors and sensitivity
i Emerging nations in record debt sales Warning: this article may be
FT WEEKEND MAGAZINE
FEBRUARY 4 2017
Credit Suisse
3 Confidence in IT plans ‘has collapsed’ Art of persuasion Mystery deepens
Sheikh Mohammed have been aligned Russia — two other signatories — that
i London tower plans break records
3 Fivefold rise in declarations expected
A survey has revealed that a
record 455 tall buildings are
over disputed painting of Jane Austen How To Spend It
France has secured its biggest overseas The UK, France and Germany have
planned or under construction
engulfed in
JAMES BLITZ — WHITEHALL EDITOR adjust its negotiation position with the in London. Work began on
EU, a Whitehall official said. “If running almost one tower a week
A computer system acquired to collect our own customs system is proving during 2016.— PAGE 4
duties and clear imports into the UK much harder than we anticipated, that
may not be able to handle the huge ought to have an impact on how we i Tillerson fails to ease Turkey tensions
order for its Rafale combat jet with the accused Iran’s hardline government of
United Arab Emirates as President In Libya, the two states have sup- reneging on agreements they reached leads to the US rejoining the deal that
FINANCIAL TIMES Japan: Nikkei Tokyo Newspaper Printing Center, Inc.,
Emmanuel Macron looks to deepen ported Khalifa Haftar, the general who with the Islamic republic to revive the former President Donald Trump unilat-
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Central, Hong Kong Representative; Hiroko Hoshino; ISSN 0915-9460 ties with a core Middle Eastern ally. controls much of the country’s east. 2015 nuclear deal and delivered their erally withdrew from in 2018. A US dele-
South Korea: Maeil Business Newspaper, 30-1, 1-Ga, They both have had challenging rela- starkest warning yet that time is run- gation is in the Austrian capital, but only
Subscriptions and Pil-Dong, Jung-Ku, Seoul, 100-728 On a visit to Dubai ahead of meetings in tions with Turkey and share a deep mis- ning out to save the accord. indirectly involved in the negotiations.
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Saudi Arabia and Qatar, Macron trust and concern about Islamist move- The US Department of State said the
Representative, Anjali Mahindroo cemented the sale in a ceremony with ments such as the Muslim Brotherhood. After Iranian negotiators submitted new Iranian administration “did not
Advertising the UAE de facto leader Abu Dhabi The UAE has also backed France’s new proposals this week at talks come to Vienna with constructive
Tel: (852) 2868 2863 asiaads@ft.com, © Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2021. Crown Prince Sheikh Mohammed bin efforts to combat jihadi groups in the designed to prevent the deal’s total col- proposals”.
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Reproduction of the contents of this newspaper Zayed al-Nahyan. Sahel states of sub-Saharan Africa. lapse, diplomats from the three Euro- This week’s talks were the first since
Letters to the editor in any manner is not permitted without the The €17bn-plus deal involves 80 Macron also called on the UAE to step pean signatories to the accord said President Ebrahim Raisi, a conservative
letters.editor@ft.com publisher’s prior consent. ‘Financial Times’ and Rafale jets and 12 Caracal helicopters up humanitarian efforts in Lebanon. It Tehran was “walking back almost all of cleric and protégé of Ayatollah Ali
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made by France’s Dassault Aviation and had followed Saudi Arabia’s lead in the difficult compromises crafted” at Khamenei, Iran’s supreme leader, won
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Asia Editor: Robin Harding of Practice: www.ft.com/editorialcode
Dassault shares surged up to 9 per cent a Lebanese minister about the Saudi-led that it was “unclear how these new gaps state for the first time in almost a dec-
on news of the deal. intervention in Yemen’s war. can be closed in a realistic timeframe on ade.
Printed by Reprints are available of any FT article with your The contract follows Rafale orders Yesterday, George Kordahi, the Leba- the basis of Iranian drafts”, adding that A member of the Iranian delegation at
Australia: Spotpress Pty Ltd, 24-26 Lillian Fowler company logo or contact details inserted if required from Croatia, Greece and Egypt this nese minister at the heart of the row, “major changes” were demanded. the talks in Vienna denied the Europe-
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15/F BLK A, 18 Ka Yip Street, Ming Pao Industrial available. Naval group in the €56bn submarines requested his resignation to give mitted to a diplomatic way forward,” already-agreed compromises, saying
Centre, Chai Wan; Representative; Angela Mackay; For both services phone +44 20 7873 4816, contract that Canberra scrapped in Sep- Macron’s initiative to improve relations they said in a joint statement. “But time that previous texts were considered by
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tember, according to the defence minis- between Lebanon and the Gulf a chance. is running out.” all sides to be only draft agreements.
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 3
INTERNATIONAL
in attempt to
vilify accusers
Defence approach in sex-traffic case is
not novel but carries risk in MeToo era
JOSHUA CHAFFIN — NEW YORK Lara Pomerantz and Maurene Comey.
The presiding judge is the no-nonsense
There was a moment of seeming levity Alison Nathan, nominated last month
this week in Ghislaine Maxwell’s other- by President Joe Biden to the federal
wise grim trial on sex trafficking appeals court.
charges. It came as her defence lawyer Then there is Maxwell herself.
was recounting all the roles one of Max- The Oxford-educated daughter of the
well’s accusers had played in her career late British press baron and embezzler
as a soap opera actress: car crash victim, Robert Maxwell sliced through the
cancer patient, prostitute and someone Manhattan social scene when she
stalked by a serial killer, among others. arrived in the early 1990s. She became A sketch of Ghislaine Maxwell entering
“I forgot about that one,” quipped the Epstein’s close confidante and the man- court in New York, followed by court
woman, now in her early 40s and identi- ager of his luxury properties. She was marshals, on Thursday. Above, Maxwell
fied pseudonymously as “Jane”. arrested in 2020, a year after he was with Jeffrey Epstein in 2005 — Jane Rosenberg/Reuters
Then the attorney, Laura Menninger, found hanged in a Manhattan prison cell
got to the point: Jane was, she said, awaiting trial on charges that he abused
essentially a trained liar. Her testimony dozens of underage girls.
about the sexual abuse she suffered, Prosecutors claim she was instrumen-
beginning aged 14, had been a perform- tal in Epstein’s scheme because she ena-
ance. “You are an actor who convinc- bled him to win the trust of vulnerable
ingly portrays someone else for a liv- young women such as Jane, who
ing,” the lawyer stated. “You are able to recounted to jurors this week how the
cry on command.” pair struck up a conversation with her
The exchange revealed the ugly con- while she was eating ice cream on a pic-
tours of the Maxwell trial: to prevail, the nic bench at a summer arts camp in
British socialite’s lawyers will have to Michigan in 1994. Her father had died of
destroy the credibility of Jane and three cancer months earlier and the family
other victims, who are expected to also had lost their house, Jane recalled.
testify that Maxwell lured them into Jef- Weeks after that first encounter,
frey Epstein’s clutches and sometimes Epstein sent a chauffeur-driven car to
participated in his sexual abuse of them. bring her and her mother to his Palm
Beach estate for tea.
She began to return by herself about
‘It’s certainly a risky every other week, Jane testified. There
strategy. It’s also was fun by the pool with Ghislaine, who
seemed to her like “an older sister”, and
probably the only strategy trips to the movies and shopping.
Ghislaine Maxwell has’ Then one day Epstein led her into his
pool house and assaulted her, Jane said.
Ghislaine Maxwell has consistently Later, she testified, Maxwell showed her
denied any wrongdoing. how to perform sexualised massages on
Attacking an accuser’s credibility in Epstein that sometimes turned into
such a case is hardly a novel legal strat- orgies.
egy. What may be changing is how it By testifying, Jane said, she was hop-
plays in a MeToo era in which much of ing for closure: “This is something I’ve
society is revising ideas about how to been running from my entire life.”
receive and respond to women’s com- But first she had to endure a cross-
plaints of abuse. examination by Menninger, who spent
“It’s certainly a risky strategy,” said most of a day attacking every part of
Elie Honig, a former prosecutor who has Jane’s story. The witness, she claimed,
handled sexual abuse cases. “It’s also had exaggerated her family’s hardship,
probably the only strategy Ghislaine was motivated by money (she won a
Maxwell has. If the jury credits and $5m financial settlement from an
believes these women, she’s cooked.” Epstein victims fund that apparently
Maxwell is one of two high-profile became $2.9m after lawyers’ fees), and
women on trial this week in a case that should have come forward years earlier.
touches on issues of gender and justice. “You have come up with that memory
In San Jose, California, Elizabeth Hol- in the last two years,” Menninger
mes, the once-vaunted founder of failed demanded at one point, after confront-
blood-testing company Theranos, ing Jane with a document from a 2019
attempted to fend off fraud charges by meeting stating she had “no specific
telling jurors she had, in fact, been memory” of her first sexualised mas-
under the control of a domineering boy- sage with Maxwell.
friend and business partner. To Barry Salzman, a Florida attorney
In Manhattan, another of Maxwell’s who specialises in sexual abuse cases
lawyers, Bobbi Sternheim, also cast her and has represented Epstein victims, it
client as a victim, arguing in a biblical was standard fare.
opening statement that Maxwell was “So many years have passed that the
being made the scapegoat for Epstein’s defence has a lot to play with in terms of
sins. “Ever since Eve was accused of faulty memory,” Salzman said.
tempting Adam with the apple, women More broadly, he observed: “In this
have been blamed for the bad behaviour country, usually — but not always — vic-
of men, and women are often vilified tims of sexual abuse sort of become the
and punished more than men are,” villains in these cases by the defence
Sternheim declared. attorneys.”
To an extraordinary degree, the Max- Salzman does not expect Maxwell’s
well trial is a contest of accomplished lawyers to pull their punches when the
women. other women take the stand. “They’re
The formidable Menninger and going to just throw everything they can
Sternheim are leading the defence at this. She’s facing 70 years [in prison],”
against an equally distinguished prose- he said, asking: “Who would put them-
cution team that features Alison Moe, selves through this?”
Council of Europe
Rights body acts over Turkey jailing
LAURA PITEL — ANKARA diplomats, could result in a suspension
of Turkey’s voting rights at the Council
Europe’s top human rights body has
of Europe, which oversees the ECHR. It
launched disciplinary action against
could even lead to the country’s expul-
Turkey for its refusal to release a jailed
sion from the Strasbourg-based institu-
businessman and philanthropist, strik-
tion that it has been a part of since 1950.
ing a fresh symbolic blow to the coun-
Kavala has been detained for four years
try’s relations with the west.
without any conviction.
The decision caps a difficult week for The decision came as Turkey saw
President Recep Tayyip Erdogan, mounting public discontent over the ris-
marred by the resignation of his finance ing cost of living. Kemal Kilicdaroglu,
minister against the backdrop of a cur- leader of the main opposition party, yes-
rency crisis that has seen the lira lose terday visited the statistical agency as
40 per cent of its value against the dollar official data said inflation rose 21 per
in the past three months. cent in November. The figure was higher
The Council of Europe voted narrowly than analysts’ forecast of 20.7 per cent.
in favour of launching “infringement” But Kilicdaroglu, who was refused a
proceedings against Ankara over the meeting with TurkStat officials, accused
detention of Osman Kavala, who has the agency of manipulating the data.
remained behind bars even after an The lira has suffered its worst plunge
order by the European Court of Human since a 2018 currency crisis after the
Rights for his release. central bank, acting under the orders of
The infringement process, likely to Erdogan, began cutting interest rates in
take at least 18 months, according to September despite rising inflation.
4 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
INTERNATIONAL
Sudan premier defends pact with military Putin might be preparing for an inva-
sion, Milley declined to single out Rus-
sia, but he warned adversaries not to be
complacent and make faulty assump-
tions about US resolve.
“It would be a mistake for any country
Hamdok in defiant mood to draw a broad strategic conclusion
during FT interview as street based on the US withdrawal from
Afghanistan and then take that event
protests mount over accord and automatically apply it to other situ-
ations,” said Milley during a flight from
Seoul to Washington. “The United
ANDRES SCHIPANI — KHARTOUM
States is a difficult country for other
In the early hours of October 25, secu- countries to understand sometimes.”
rity forces showed up at the residence of Milley’s comments came as US-Rus-
Sudanese prime minister Abdalla Ham- sian tensions soar over Ukraine. Antony
dok in the capital Khartoum. Blinken, US secretary of state, held
They said “there is a change, you will tense talks with Sergei Lavrov, his Rus-
be staying under house arrest”, Hamdok sian counterpart, on Thursday, a day
recalled in an interview with the Finan- after he said an invasion would trigger
cial Times about the military coup that “severe” consequences, including “high-
knocked Sudan’s democratic transition impact economic measures”. Russia
off course and caused a global outcry. denies it has plans to invade.
More than a month later, the soft-spo- On Ukraine, Milley declined to spec-
ken economist has been reinstated ify on options the US was considering,
through what he called a “workable but said the “full range of diplomatic,
agreement” with the army to avoid “a economic information and military
catastrophic situation”. Dozens have activities are certainly out there,
been killed in mass protests against the depending on what and if Russia does
military takeover. But far from quelling something”.
anger at the coup, Hamdok’s deal with “It remains to be seen whether that
the generals jeopardises support for the military activity that we’re seeing on the
technocrat. Russian side of the border is going to
Although protests have lost some of turn into something very aggressive,” he
their intensity since the agreement was said. “We don’t know yet. But it is signif-
made, “the streets are saying ‘there’s icant, and it’s real.”
no bargaining, no negotiating, no mili- Concerns about an invasion rose in
tary in government’”, said Duaa Tariq, Street anger: Amjed Farid, a former assistant chief of street in anger at the coup, in an echo of ‘Those who who murdered my son cannot rule my April when the Russia positioned tens of
co-founder of CivicLab, which promotes an anti-coup staff to Hamdok. “It is not possible to the 2019 demonstrations that spurred country,” said Amel Abbas. thousands of troops on Ukraine’s east-
civil and political rights. “Hamdok has protester in build the country, solve its problems, or the military to topple Bashir. At least 43 murdered The loss of popular support is partly ern border and in Crimea, which Mos-
lost the street. He has lost a historic Khartoum move forward through threats and people have been killed, according to a my son because the deal Hamdok signed com- cow annexed in 2014. But Milley said
chance to get the people on his side.” carries a poster intimidation. A country is built on hope, Sudanese doctors’ committee. pels him to form a government of “inde- the build-up, coupled with other devel-
Signed on November 21 by Hamdok bearing the not violence.” Hamdan and Burhan claim neither cannot pendent technocrats” and not politi- opments, suggested that Russia was
and Abdel Fattah Burhan, Sudan’s top portrait of a Two key players behind the deal are the military nor the RSF are responsible rule my cians. Hemeti justifies this by pointing more serious about military action.
general and the coup leader, the pact woman killed in Mohamed Hamdan Dagalo, known as for killing protesters, but, possibly, to the dysfunction of the past two years. “Last time, it turned out to be a series
restored the civilian element of the a crackdown last Hemeti, Sudan’s vice-president and some elements within the police. country’ The economy is in crisis and inflation is of exercises. One of the most noticeable
country’s transitional government, sup- month. Below, commander of the Rapid Support “Armed” people linked to certain politi- running at more than 360 per cent. differences between now and April is
posedly paving the way for elections in Mohamed Forces militia, and his brother, Abdul cal parties may be responsible for some But without a political presence in the the rhetoric,” he said. “The public rheto-
July 2023. The 14-point plan falls short Hamdan Dagalo, Rahim Hamdan Dagalo. While formally the deaths, Burhan said, an allegation government, it is unclear how long it can ric coming out of Russia seems to be a
of the agreement that brought both men right, is greeted deferring to Burhan, Mohamed Ham- that have been dismissed by Sudanese last. Siddiq Mohamed Ismail, deputy little bit more strident than it was
to power during the 2019 revolution as by Abdel Fattah dan has come to the fore as the military politicians. Just 10 people were killed, chair of the Umma party, one of the before.”
part of a hybrid government. Under that al-Burhan has tightened its grip. “I am very happy he said, not dozens, citing a preliminary country’s largest, said that “politicians The Pentagon had prepared for
agreement, the military and civilians AFP/Getty; Sudan Presidential
Palace/Anadolu Agency
indeed, I was part of the agreement investigation by the attorney-general. should be part of the government”. Even numerous contingencies but did not
shared power after the fall of longstand- along with anyone else,” he told the FT. “Peaceful demonstrations are already Hamdok strikes a note of scepticism on provide any details related to Ukraine,
ing dictator Omar al-Bashir. Thousands of protesters took to the protected by law and the constitution, how feasible would it be to form a gov- said Milley, who stressed that diplo-
Under the deal signed by Hamdok, we have no objection, all the security ernment without politicians. “There is a macy was going to be the most impor-
the military has tightened its grip, bar- forces — army, intelligence, police, RSF saying that the Sudanese are either tant channel to resolve the crisis.
ring politicians from Sudan’s cabinet at a — all of them have very strict instruc- poets or politicians and there are very “The issues that are at stake in
time that the $30bn economy is crum- tions to protect the peaceful protesters, few poets,” he said. Ukraine . . . can and should be resolved
bling. The battle for democracy in the civilians,” said Hemeti. For many, the deal quite simply is not diplomatically in a way that doesn’t lead
Sudan — a country that has suffered 17 These words ring hollow to the enough. “All the people here do not to violence or armed conflict.”
coups since it became independent in mother of Mohammed Abdarhamim, a believe in the deal, the deal is not Lloyd Austin, US defence secretary,
1956 — is far from over. 27-year-old computer science student, accepted by the streets,” said Imad who with Milley met their South Korean
Protesters, politicians and activists who she says was shot in the head by Hashim, 40, a mechanic and protester, counterparts in Seoul on Thursday,
are pushing back on the presence of the security forces on the day of the coup. pointing to where a fellow protester was declined to say if the US would threaten
military in the transitional government. “Our son died in the pursuit of civil gov- recently killed. “We won’t listen to military retaliation to deter Moscow.
“Whoever sheds blood is a criminal ernment, and this agreement between Hamdok, Hamdok should fight for the “I don’t care to speculate on potential
who has no legitimacy to rule, and who- Hamdok and Burhan changed nothing, people, not for the military. We are responses. I would just say that we’ll
ever drags the country into violence so unless we have the civil government going to keep protesting until we have a continue to use the best methods to
stands against the slogan of the peaceful that our son died for we are not full civilian government with no mili- address whatever the situation is that
revolution that was once raised,” said acknowledging this agreement — those tary in it. Never again the military.” occurs,” Austin said.
Gaddafi given go-ahead to run for presidency China sells missing entrepreneur’s painting
HEBA SALEH — CAIRO On Thursday, the court in Sebha, south- Muammer Gaddafi, was overthrown TOM MITCHELL — SINGAPORE fied buyer on Thursday night by Beijing viewed as a potential successor to Presi-
ern Libya, accepted Gaddafi’s appeal and later killed. The junior Gaddafi was Poly International Auction, a unit of dent Xi Jinping until he was arrested in
A court in Libya has said Saif al-Islam A famous painting originally owned by
against his exclusion from the race, captured in 2011 by a militia from the state-owned China Poly Group, at a 2017. He was sentenced to life in prison
Gaddafi, a son of Libya’s overthrown a missing Chinese businesswoman has
according to multiple reports citing his north-western town of Zintan and held price far higher than the auctioneer’s for alleged corruption a year later.
dictator, can run for president, adding been sold in Beijing by a state-owned
lawyer. captive there until 2017, when he was initial estimated value of Rmb8m- It has never been confirmed by gov-
to the uncertainty and chaos surround- auction house for Rmb38m ($6m),
The electoral commission had freed. He is still wanted by the Interna- Rmb16m. ernment or party investigators that
ing the forthcoming poll. raising questions about whether her
declared Gaddafi ineligible because he tional Criminal Court for alleged crimes Poly described the seller as an Duan was detained. She resurfaced
assets were being forcibly liquidated.
Last week the electoral commission dis- had been convicted of a crime. He was against humanity during attempts by “important institution” but declined to briefly in September when she phoned
qualified him from the December 24 sentenced to death in 2015 in absentia the former regime to suppress the Nato- Duan Weihong, an entrepreneur also Shum urging him not to publish his
election that western governments by a court in Tripoli for war crimes dur- backed uprising. known as Whitney who was close to the book about their dealings with the Wen
hope will unite a fragmented country. ing the 2011 uprising in which his father, For many years his father’s heir family of former premier Wen Jiabao,
State-owned auctioneer family, Sun and other party elite.
apparent, Gaddafi cultivated the image originally paid $5m for Prayer, a 2012 oil declined to comment on Shum said at the time that he believed
of a moderniser who wanted to bring painting by Chinese artist Zeng Fanzhi, Duan was forced to make the call under
human rights to Libya. But when pro- according to a book recently published
the provenance of the duress and was not free.
tests erupted in 2011, he warned of riv- by her ex-husband. artwork sold for $6m Zeng did not respond to a request for
ers of blood and was filmed brandishing In Red Roulette, Desmond Shum comment.
a machine gun and vowing to crush described Duan as “one of Zeng’s comment further on the provenance of Demand for his works has cooled over
insurgents. patrons” who competed against rival the painting. Shum, who lives in the UK, the past decade. But on Monday the Bei-
The UN and western governments collector François Pinault, the French said he was “very sorry” to learn that jing-based artist was ranked by the
hope the elections will help turn a cor- magnate, for his art. Duan had intended Prayer was up for sale. “It’s a great paint- Hurun Report, which tracks the wealth
ner in a country where militias have to house the painting and other works ing,” he added. of China’s richest entrepreneurs, as the
held sway for most of the past decade by Zeng in a luxury hotel development Duan disappeared in 2017, ostensibly world’s 10th hottest artist, based on
and foreign governments have engaged in Beijing, according to Shum. as part of an investigation into Sun sales of his works in 2020 totalling
in proxy wars by sending arms and mer- “She did not only buy Zeng’s works,” Zhengcai, another senior politician she $39.3m. On Wednesday, another of his
cenaries. Some 98 candidates have reg- said a person close to the artist. “She was had cultivated. Sun, once the youngest works, This Land So Rich in Beauty No 2,
istered for the poll, but the electoral also one of his biggest supporters.” member of the Chinese Communist sold for HK$40m ($5.1m).
commission disqualified 25 last week. The artwork was sold to an unidenti- party’s 25-member politburo, was Additional reporting by Emma Zhou
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 5
6 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
Little over a week after it was first identified, the public and policymakers are desperate for information
about the new variant and whether Covid vaccines will still work. Scientists are scrambling for answers.
By Clive Cookson, Oliver Barnes and John Burn-Murdoch
I
t was goosebumps for me,” says
Sikhulile Moyo, laboratory director
at the Botswana-Harvard Aids
Institute Partnership in Gaborone.
On November 19, Moyo observed
“certain patterns of mutations that
we’ve never seen” in four samples
among 95 Covid-positive swabs ran-
domly selected for genome sequencing.
“We saw something very strange,”
says Moyo. Puzzled by the set of muta-
tions, he double and triple checked the
tests for contamination and to ensure
they had captured more than 95 per
cent of the viral genetic code — the
benchmark of a good sequence.
Scientists in South Africa and Hong
Kong were puzzling over the same per-
plexing constellation of genetic changes
detected in their labs — far more than in
any previous variant of Sars-Cov-2.
After alerting Botswana’s minister of
health on November 23, Moyo uploaded
data about the variant to Gisaid, the glo-
bal repository of viral genomes. “We
really didn’t imagine the impact,” he
says. “We saw the next day that South
Africa had seen the same thing and
Hong Kong too. We chatted and we real-
ised . . . these mutations were in a class
of their own.”
Meanwhile, South African epidemiol-
ogists were becoming alarmed by a
rapid rise in Covid cases in Gauteng
province, including in Johannesburg
and Pretoria. They immediately linked
this sudden surge to the appearance of a
hyper-mutated new variant, which sci-
entists called B.1.1.529 and the World
Health Organization then named Omi-
cron.
Pioneering
ing a block of shares in the typewriter their father’s brokerage firm to run. friends and we shall mourn his passing.” ried Maria Pia. The couple had three
maker Olivetti. As the stake was so large They decided to try and win more exter- In the mid-1980s, as Quantum grew in sons and a daughter.
he worked with a little-known broker in nal clients, such as wealthy investors size, Foglia, who was already sitting on During a time of political turbulence
Quantum fund
one of the hedge fund industry’s most stocks for foreign investors. represent investors and act as a sound- Lugano in Switzerland, where he and his
productive partnerships. Foglia’s encounter with Soros, with ing board for Soros’s investment ideas. brother had set up Banca del Ceresio
Foglia, who has died at the age of 93, is whom he spent the afternoon on the tel- With a high-powered line-up including years earlier.
best known for being the longstanding ephone finding buyers in the US and Nils Taube, an adviser to financier Jacob He was also instrumental in develop-
chair of Soros’s Quantum fund, one of Europe for the huge block of Olivetti Rothschild, and the heads of a number ing the wider hedge fund industry in the
the most famous and successful hedge shares, proved pivotal. Spotting the of Geneva private banks, the board early 1960s and 1970s, when it was still
funds of all time. He was also a very talents of the Hungarian broker, who needed a strong but neutral chair, and in its infancy, and was a backer of rising
early pioneer of hedge fund investing, was at that time years away from Foglia was the obvious fit. stars such as Michael Steinhardt and
Alberto Foglia helping the nascent industry grow in the launching his eponymous hedge fund, Foglia and Soros would speak fre- Julian Robertson. His business, which
Hedge fund manager 1960s and 1970s and attract capital Foglia gave Soros a trading account to quently, often weekly, about invest- ran money for family and clients, was
1928-2021 from European investors. manage. The portfolio yielded returns ments. Ahead of Soros’s most famous eventually merged into Haussmann
Foglia was born in Milan in 1928, into of 50-150 per cent a year — a sign of investment — his bet against the pound Holdings, one of the first funds of hedge
the heart of the Italian financial world. things to come. in 1992 — the pair discussed a similar, Alberto Foglia helped change the funds.
His father, Antonio, a stockbroker, had Foglia went on to become a large seed much smaller trade against the lira. nature of active investing “He did not just develop the hedge
made large profits after visiting the US investor in Soros’s early First Eagle and The trade worked, helping to convince fund industry, he was one of a few select
in the early 1930s during the Depression Double Eagle funds and then the famous Soros to bet against sterling, a trade European bankers who initiated it,” said
and investing in its stock market near its Quantum fund, run by Soros Fund Man- that entered folklore for making $1bn Rick Sopher, chair of LCH Investments.
lows. During the second world war, agement, which launched in 1970. on what became known as Black “He encouraged Soros and a handful
Antonio helped the Italian resistance, Meanwhile the pair became close Wednesday. ‘He was my very first of others to launch hedge funds in the
letting its leaders meet in secret in his
house. After the war he became presi-
friends and would enjoy holidays
together, such as deep powder heli-ski-
As a trusted adviser, Foglia was also
one of the few people to receive break- client and he remained late 1960s and was part of a pioneering
movement that would eventually
dent of the Milan Stockbrokers’ Execu- ing in Canada in the late 1970s. downs of the Quantum fund’s portfolio faithful to me through change the nature of the active investing
tive Committee. “Alberto Foglia was my very first cli- on a weekly basis. He eventually retired industry.”
Antonio’s death in the 1950s left ent and he remained faithful to me as chair in 2003. thick and thin,’ said Soros Laurence Fletcher
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 7
8 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
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idea with legs the free world. The difficulty is that the
present US and free world differences
with China are more akin to those of
(November 27).
He posits that a “Grateful Britain”
thanked her Indian colonial subjects
they could command elsewhere (“The
row over MPs’ second jobs has Johnson
on the run”, Opinion, FT.com, FT
Faisal Sheikh
London W1, UK
religious wars, which Allison’s for their contribution to the first world Weekend, November 20).
Insects are an efficient and environmentally friendly source of protein framework does not address. war by erecting monuments and That would imply that society Correction
Clyde Prestowitz allowing a token “transfer of power” generally rewards the talented with
According to Britain’s Royal Entomo- tising. But that sense is ultimately irra- Former Trade Negotiator with Japan and following the Montagu declaration in high salaries. Tell that to our teachers c The name of artist Kaitlin Martin was
logical Society there are roughly 1.4bn tional. Their aquatic cousins — mol- China for the Reagan Administration 1917. This, writes Fernando, fired the and nurses, musicians and actors. misspelt in an article in the Collecting
insects on earth for every single one of luscs like scallops or crustaceans such President, Economic Strategy Institute starting gun for independence for the Jenny Hoffmann section on November 27. We apologise
its 7bn or so humans. That is testament as lobsters — are already a staple of Potomac, MD, US country. Cirencester, Gloucestershire, UK for the error.
to how successful creepy crawlies are at western diets. French diners rave
converting nutrients into protein. about snails in garlic butter. Cambodi-
Evolving at the same time as plant life, ans who eat fried tarantula report they
long before the dinosaurs, this biologi-
cal class must count among the most
taste just like crab. Most insects might
be smaller, and served still in their car- How kitchen A couple of years ago, I interviewed
Ana Ros, the self-taught chef of the
might think. Chef comes from “chef de
cuisine”, meaning head of the kitchen,
chefs began jostling the men at the top
off the best-of lists — Hélène Darroze,
energy-efficient of animals. Indeed,
compared to more traditional live-
apace, unlike shellfish, but crispy, sour-
spicy chapulines can be every bit as culture is double Michelin-starred restaurant
Hisa Franko in the Slovenian Alps. I
a term that belongs to the grammar of
the restaurant. Women have always
Clare Smyth, Anne-Sophie Pic — the
#MeToo movement effectively put an
stock, it is distinctly environmentally
friendly, producing less carbon and
rewarding as salty, slimy, oysters.
For those who still cannot get over evolving for asked her about the controversy that
sprang up when she was named Best
run eateries: pubs, cafés, diners,
trattorias, taverns. But the restaurant
end to head chefs yelling, leering and
throwing pots about under the cover
using less land than cows and pigs. That
is a decisive reason why the humble
bug should play a greater role in feed-
the “ick” factor, there is another option
to take advantage of insect’s biological
success. Morrisons, a British super-
female chefs Female Chef in the World in 2017.
People complained the award was
discriminatory. Ros pointed out that
is a relatively modern invention,
appearing in Paris at the end of the
18th century.
of machismo camaraderie. The cult of
the male restaurant chef indulged as a
badly behaved rock star has gone the
ing animals — as well as humans. market, is working with an “agritech” society as a whole was discriminatory: Women did not fare well in these way of, well, the cult of the badly
The utilitarian argument is not start-up to replace the predominately male chefs she knew didn’t have to male preserves, but there have always behaved rock star.
enough. Eating insects should not be soya diets of its egg-laying chickens find time to ferry kids to sports games been exceptions. Eugénie Brazier, There is still plenty to do. But post-
seen as a hardship, a selfless act to save with insects. Feed is the most carbon- or endure the condescension of peers known as La Mère Brazier, in 1933 was pandemic labour shortages have
the planet. Rather, it is a chance for intensive part of rearing poultry, esti- saying, “Oh, your food is much better the first chef to be awarded six meant that restaurants are having to
culinary exploration. Billions of people mated at around 85 per cent of the total than I thought it would be”. Maybe the Michelin stars, three each for her two pay attention to workplace culture in
worldwide already happily munch on emissions embedded in a fresh egg, and award was a way of recognising a restaurants — a feat not repeated by a way not seen before. Over the past
bugs. Grasshoppers dressed with a mix soy farming has been linked to defor- particular female struggle, she said. any chef for more than 60 years. five years, the number of female chefs
of chilli and lime and known as estation in Brazil. Chickens would eat Ros’s dilemma described the classic Shut out of male kitchens, women in the UK has risen by a third, but
chapulines, are a popular snack in Mex- insects in the wild anyway, but some feminist conundrum: all chefs being established their own restaurants on they are still under-represented in
ico, while escamol, the pupae of ants, entrepreneurs are looking at farmed equal, women wouldn’t need to be their own terms, launching new senior positions. Women in restaurant
are a delicacy sometimes called “Mexi- insects as an alternative to fishmeal, judged in a separate category. But all is trends in the process. In the 1970s, kitchens are no longer novelties, and
can caviar”. South Korean beondegi, which is often the product of unsus- not equal. Restaurant kitchens are Alice Waters pioneered farm-to-table books, associations and awards are
silkworm pupae, are steamed or boiled tainable overfishing. predominantly male; the percentage at Chez Panisse in California; Ruth growing in number to support
— sometimes candied — and served as a Another option might be to take the of female head chefs in the UK has Rogers and Rose Gray of the River diversity in all kinds of cooking.
street food. Colombian hormigas culo- same path as many parents of fussy been hovering at about the 20 per cent Cafe reimagined Italian food in Crucially, the French idiom of the
nas, fat-bottomed ants, are fried or
toasted to make a seasonal treat.
Consumers in rich, developed coun-
eaters: disguise the offending food.
Earlier this year yellow mealworm
became the first insect judged safe for
Notebook mark for the past decade. And,
according to the Office for National
Statistics, women in the UK still
London in an office canteen; more
recently Asma Khan gained success at
the Darjeeling Express in London,
fine dining experience has given way
to a more informal way of eating out
taken from many different cuisines —
tries, however, are reluctant to join in. human consumption by the EU food by Wendell Steavenson prepare home meals twice as often as employing an all-women team. small plates of tapas, sharing platters
At least, that is, knowingly — the fresh- standard’s agency under a new “novel their male partners do. Despite this, In home kitchens, things have been from Chinese banquets, Mexican
est fruit and vegetables come with the foods” regulatory regime. The snack, however, the cultural and culinary changing for a while. Twenty years street food. The absolutism of the
possibility of a little “bonus” protein. the larval form of a type of beetle, can landscape is changing, and the past ago, Jamie Oliver showed men that it toque has been replaced by a far
That resistance should be overcome. be enjoyed deep fried and, reportedly, few years — with #MeToo, Black Lives wasn’t sissy to cook nice nosh for your greater democracy.
To combat global warming and feed the tastes like peanuts. Alternatively, for Matter, the global pandemic — have family. Trace the trajectory of cookery All this matters, in part, because
ever growing ranks of the world’s those who do not want a bowl of worms accelerated progress. books from the domestic authorities food is the ultimate soft power. It has
human population, the rich world on their dining room table, it can be “Chef” and “cook” evolved as of Mrs Beeton through Julia Child and always been an instrument of cultural
should turn away from pork, beef and dried, powdered and used in baking. gendered terms. One designates work Delia Smith to the present day, where expression and exchange. It has
chicken and embrace scorpions, Insect farmers say that the ground-up outside the home, paid and our weekday dinners are as likely to always broken down barriers. Because
spiders and beetles. worms can replace some of the flour, celebrated; the other carries a be inspired by Yotam Ottolenghi as by food is not just a metaphor — pressure
Squeamishness about bugs is under- adding an extra dose of protein as well domestic connotation. But the a contemporary domestic goddess. cooker, casserole, Dutch oven, tagine,
standable — with multiple legs, eyes as a slight nutty flavour. Let’s enjoy a distinction is more recent than you And as a growing band of female wok, cauldron — it is a melting pot.
and hard shells, they hardly look appe- slice of mealworm cake.
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 9
Opinion
Britain needs to reset relations with France — here’s how
that the Indo-Pacific region is more We need to defuse the war of mega- Lithuania. An enhanced tripartite sity operations, as well as peacekeeping, take joint and co-ordinated action with
David important than Europe to the UK. The phone diplomacy with our neighbours approach by London, Paris and Berlin, disaster relief and humanitarian assist- our European allies when we deal with
Manning integrated review of defence and secu- and try to restore trust. compatible with our respective Nato ance. And there is a case for revisiting crises in Hong Kong, or over the
rity policy published earlier this year First, we must rebuild confidence commitments, would send a strong sig- the 1998 St Malo agreement on Euro- Uyghurs, or Taiwan, or the Sahel or the
argues that Britain should pivot to the with France so that the two European nal of joint intent. pean defence co-operation. This pro- threat to Ukraine. Such a relationship
Indo-Pacific in recognition of China’s nuclear powers, with the strongest mili- There is also scope for further nuclear vides for European autonomy of the would not impinge on our sovereignty
W
emergence as an increasingly dominant tary forces, can work closely together. co-operation. The second of the Lancas- kind that Macron wants, and for the or autonomy. Europe and the UK are
e were promised an great power, and in response to the We should consider a new bilateral ter House Treaties provides for bilateral increased burden sharing that succes- better able to deal with these threats
amicable Brexit. Boris growing importance of Asia economi- treaty as a framework for relations, pull- co-operation on nuclear issues, includ- sive US presidents have been demand- when we are united.
Johnson said that while cally. We should certainly take account ing together existing agreements. ing. It also offers the basis for a new post- Any British government of the past 40
the UK might be leaving of these new realities, but our engage- The two Lancaster House Treaties of Brexit UK-EU security relationship. years would be considering these ideas
the EU, we would still be
a positive part of Europe. Instead we
ment in Asia is not a substitute for
defence co-operation in Europe.
2010 remain in force. The first commits
the UK and France to joint exercises and
Existing mechanisms for Second, the UK should take up the
EU’s offer of a new framework for our
now and developing a plan. But the cur-
rent government appears not to be
risk a series of cross-channel crises Nor does it change geography. China training, to work together on military co-operation between relations on foreign policy and defence, doing so. Instead it is escalating the ten-
turning into permanent confrontation.
But there is a model for better rela-
is 5,000 miles from Britain; France is 20.
The immediate threat to the UK and its
doctrine, to the exchange of military
personnel, access to each other’s
the EU and other states which we turned down during the Brexit
negotiations. The integrated review
sion across the Channel. The UK will be
paying the costs for many years to come.
tions right under our noses. After a dec- European neighbours is from Russia, defence procurement programmes, and would not suit the UK claims we can be more nimble now the So let’s put down the megaphone, pick
ade of strain between France and Italy, which has murdered people on British to the pooling of military resources in UK is no longer in the EU. But the truth up the telephone and start building a
President Emmanuel Macron and soil and seeks to undermine western military operations. ing a 50-year commitment to share the is we are also easier to ignore. new relationship with Europe that can
prime minister Mario Draghi recently cohesion in both Nato and the EU. Some bilateral co-operation contin- same facility to check the safety and Existing mechanisms for co-opera- be the basis of a strong Global Britain. If
signed a new bilateral treaty undertak- If we are serious about making “Glo- ues: France contributes 300 troops to security of our nuclear warheads. As the tion between the EU and other states this government doesn’t do so, the next
ing to co-operate closely on a range of bal Britain” more than an empty slogan, the Nato force in Estonia of which the threat of proliferation grows, there is would not suit us. We need a specially one will have to.
issues. We should sit down with the we cannot pretend that we are an Indo- UK is the framework nation. The crisis more that we can do together. tailored set of arrangements that pro-
French and do the same, while setting Pacific power while ignoring the conti- in Belarus has increased the threat in We should develop the Combined vide for regular meetings at ministerial The writer was UK ambassador to Wash-
up a new systematic structure of consul- nent to which we belong. It is not a ques- the Baltic area and eastern Europe. Lon- Joint Expeditionary Force (CJEF), and official level to co-ordinate policy ington, Nato and Israel. Jonathan Powell,
tation with the EU as a whole. tion of choosing either Asia or Europe; don and Paris could work together with which provides for a joint UK/French and convene emergency meetings when chief of staff to Tony Blair from 1995 to
But first we have to stop pretending we must choose both. Germany, the Nato framework nation in force to deploy rapidly for high-inten- faced by a crisis. We need to be able to 2007, also contributed to this article
T
pricing scheme, designed to set a floor
O
here is nothing that tastes on the price that commodity farmers
ne big question has hov- quite as good on a pancake gain for their output. Apple growers use
ered over Inditex, the or a waffle as maple syrup, patents and trademarks to brand their
world’s largest clothing so this week’s action by produce, such as the Cosmic Crisp pro-
retailer, for at least a dec- Canadian farmers to ensure duced in the US state of Washington,
ade: what happens when their national product keeps flowing and combat the supermarket squeeze.
Amancio Ortega goes? provides seasonal good cheer. Millions Climate change and the volatility of
The 85-year-old founder of Spain’s of pounds of “liquid gold” — half of Que- weather patterns also means that the
biggest and best-respected company bec’s strategic maple syrup reserve — strategic syrup reserve, amusing as it
stepped down as chair 10 years ago, but are on their way. sounds, could become a model for other
comes in every day to its headquarters It is irresistible to laugh at the fact that commodities. Global warming has
on the Atlantic coast and still holds a the province of Quebec not only domi- altered wine harvests, and the price of
majority stake in the €89bn giant, mak- nates the global maple syrup market but huckleberries has doubled in the past
ing him the country’s richest man. operates a cartel that rivals Opec, the two years because of extreme heat in the
Now the question has an answer: the organisation of oil-producing countries, west of the US. If only there were a huck-
Inditex board announced this week in effectiveness and aggression. But if leberry reserve.
that, as of April 1, Ortega’s 37-year-old you make syrup that has fetched up to No, the problem with the syrup con-
daughter Marta will take over as chair of 25 times the price per gallon of oil, it spiracy is that it enforces compliance
the Zara owner. needs careful handling. too rigidly and inflexibly. It is, as an offi-
The contrast is stark with her reclu- Quebec had a poor harvest last spring: cial report pointed out in 2016, “a sys-
sive father, who started work as a shop the temperature was too warm for the tem that encourages deviance, which
assistant at 13, has never given an inter- cycle of night frosts followed by daytime the federation never fails to punish
view, rarely wears his company’s prod- thaws that push sap out of maple trees heavily”. Woe betide the black market
ucts and refused to be photographed to be boiled for syrup. Faced with a fall sugarer who tries to sneak maple syrup
until just before Inditex listed in 2001. in production and a pandemic urge to across the southern border to Vermont
Marta’s appearances at fashion shows, stock up, the Federation of Quebec without approval.
on the French and Italian Rivieras and Maple Syrup Producers is unsealing Storing huge quantities of syrup in big
at society weddings have become a sta- thousands of barrels it keeps in a ware- barrels draws attention to the fact that it
ple of ¡Hola! and other celebrity maga- house for such a day. is fungible — there is no difference
zines. “People of the same trade seldom between one Quebec syrup producer
“She loves fashion, the world of the meet together . . . but the conversation
image and combining them,” says a ends in a conspiracy against the public,
company insider of Ortega, who was
educated at Swiss boarding school and
or in some contrivance to raise prices,”
the economist Adam Smith observed in
In a world of supermarket
Regent’s University in London. “It’s The Wealth of Nations in 1776. The feder- chains and discounters,
something she lives very intensely.”
After working discreetly at the group
ation has managed to contrive gently
rising prices for its 11,300 producers
tree-tappers are hardly the
for 15 years, Ortega announced herself Person in the News | Marta Ortega over the past two decades by controlling most fearsome force
to the public in an interview with the syrup supplies.
Tourist trap Google leaves travel industry Volatile mix New virus variant and jolt from
searching for fair play — ANALYSIS, PAGE 12 the Fed put markets in a spin — ANALYSIS, PAGE 13
3 Deal could ‘stifle’ innovation 3 FTC echoes UK fears 3 Rivals raise objections officials yesterday after the embattled
property developer warned that it may
stock market regulator, also told report-
ers that risks coming from the devel-
not be able to meet its financial obliga- oper were controllable.
tions and that it planned to restructure However, the scale of Evergrande’s
its offshore debt. borrowing — the group has more than
$300bn in liabilities — has already led to
The decision by officials in Guangdong, a sectorwide liquidity crisis that has
the southern province where Ever- swept up rival developers such as Kaisa.
grande is headquartered, came hours Evergrande’s outsized role in China’s
after the property group disclosed that property sector has also left global
it had received a demand relating to a investors tracking its fate.
$260m guarantee, without providing
any further details.
In a series of developments, the local Evergrande chair
Hui Ka Yan is likely
government in Guangdong agreed to to be grilled by
parachute a team of officials into the state officials over
indebted company whose financial the group’s
woes have deepened as Beijing has tight- $300bn debt load
ened restrictions on the country’s once-
booming property sector. Although Evergrande has missed sev-
The provincial government did not eral interest payments on offshore
provide any further information. bonds, it has not formally defaulted
In a Hong Kong stock exchange filing because it has met its obligations before
yesterday, Evergrande said that “there the end of 30-day grace periods.
is no guarantee that the group will have In the Hong Kong filing, the company
sufficient funds to continue to perform said that it “plans to actively engage
its financial obligations”. with offshore creditors to formulate a
Shortly after the filing, the People’s viable restructuring plan of the com-
Bank of China stepped up its criticism of pany’s offshore indebtedness.”
the company, accusing it of “poor man- Advisers to Evergrande’s interna-
agement” and pursuing “blind expan- tional bondholders have complained of
sion”. no “meaningful engagement” from the
The central bank insisted that Ever- company.
CEO. He has spent 10 years rising Meet the new ing leadership to companies in danger of audio chatroom service and Twitter’s the public eye could prove a hindrance
through Twitter’s engineering ranks, bosses: Twitter losing their technical edge. first subscription offering, though nei- for a company that has played an out-
becoming chief technology officer four chief executive His first years at the company ther has been a game-changer. sized role in the cultural zeitgeist, and Nissan announced a $17.7bn
years ago, and is closely associated with Parag Agrawal, involved helping to revamp its technical Doubling down on engineering and which is often at the centre of political
many of the initiatives that have been left, who infrastructure, laying stronger founda- product development, Twitter also this storms over alleged social media bias vehicle electrification plan in a bid
closest to Dorsey’s own heart. replaced Jack tions for the faster pace of product inno- week picked one of Silicon Valley’s top and the spread of misinformation. to ‘democratise’ battery-powered
“He’s part of the building, basically,” Dorsey, below; vation and growth Wall Street was agi- product managers as chair. Though only Dorsey’s personal connections helped
said one former Twitter colleague, who and new chair tating for. He came to Twitter after a just out of his 30s, Bret Taylor’s record to make Twitter a cultural phenome- cars and dominate the industry
warned against expecting any signifi- Bret Taylor PhD at Stanford University, and stints in includes helping to create Google Maps, non, one former employee says. “They
cant changes at the company. FT montage; Ellian Raffoul/
Courtesy of Twitter via AP;
research at Microsoft, Yahoo and AT&T. serving as chief technology officer at were always a little star-struck”, to meet
Another noted that having Dorsey’s Bloomberg That work brought him recognition as Facebook and founding two start-ups. the founder-CEO, this person says, leav-
ear had earned Agrawal a special place Twitter’s first “distinguished engineer”, More recently he has emerged as the ing Agrawal with big shoes to fill.
in the Twitter hierarchy. If you wanted a title with huge status in Silicon Valley’s top product guru at Salesforce, a rise With Wall Street pressing for results,
to feed an idea up to the CEO, the best elite engineering circles, but which sel- capped the day after the shake-up at the new CEO cannot expect much of a 3 Commonwealth Fusion Systems secured nearly
start was often to plant it first with dom paves the way to a CEO position. Twitter by the news that Taylor had also honeymoon. Twitter’s growth targets $2bn in funding from investors that include Tiger
Agrawal, this person said. Since taking on the top technology been appointed co-CEO at the business call for it to raise its number of active Global Management and Bill Gates, as the US nuclear
Yet despite this, Agrawal’s elevation job, Agrawal has also had a hand in try- software company. daily users by half by the end of 2023, energy group looks to develop its promising but
to one of the tech industry’s hottest seats ing to speed up Twitter’s new product Even among the close-knit personal and investors are impatient for its busi- extremely complex nuclear fusion technology.
could be a turning point. Former cycles. The result has been an increase networks of Silicon Valley, this may be a ness to reach a scale that matches its
employees describe a company that in the pace of new product introduc- first. Five years ago, Salesforce founder influence in the social media world. 3 Credit Suisse chair António Horta-Osório vowed
struggled to regain its confidence after tions, including, over the past year, an Marc Benioff tried to buy Twitter, before “This can become a $200bn company to overhaul the bank’s pay policy after a succession of
several product failures, and which lost bowing to pressure from his own share- by leaning into the product road map crises, including a $5.5bn trading loss from the
a hunger for the kind of constant experi- holders and backing off. Now, his new and monetising this huge and growing implosion of Archegos Capital, angered investors.
mentation and product iteration of Sili- co-CEO is inside Twitter’s boardroom. user base,” insists one shareholder.
con Valley’s most successful companies. A pure engineering mindset at the top Recently, however, the valuation has 3 Nissan announced a ¥2tn ($17.7bn) vehicle electri-
Agrawal’s fans claim he is already on the could overcome the indecisiveness that dropped below $35bn. Its stock price fication plan in a bid to “democratise” battery-
way to fixing these problems. crept into Twitter under Dorsey’s lead- has fallen by nearly half from its Febru- powered cars and assert its dominance over rival glo-
Little known outside the halls of Twit- ership, said Alex Roetter, a former head ary high, to roughly where it was at the bal carmakers and newcomers such as Tesla.
ter, his record as an engineer and prod- of engineering. Engineers “tend to look end of Twitter’s first day as a public
uct head have earned him a solid repu- at data and get on with things”, he said, company, eight years ago. 3 SS&C Technologies, a US provider of financial
tation among colleagues and some Twit- adding of Agrawal: “He’s very data- Dorsey quit after failing to convince services software, proposed a £1.2bn offer for British
ter investors. He came to the US in 2005 driven, he can be intense. He has a low investors he could make a real change to robotics software maker Blue Prism, as a bidding war
as a graduate of the Indian Institute of tolerance for things that are suboptimal. Twitter’s growth trajectory. To avoid the with US buyout group Vista Equity Partners steps up.
Technology in Mumbai and much like But he has a way of getting people to same fate, Agrawal will need to come up
the Indian-born CEOs of Microsoft and want to work with him.” with some quick results. 3 KPMG has told its 6,000 UK auditors that they will
IBM, his appointment was also seen as Whatever his technical achieve- Additional reporting by Antoine Gara and be expected in the office or at client sites four days a
an attempt to bring stronger engineer- ments, Agrawal’s lack of experience in Hannah Murphy week after Covid-19 restrictions were eased this year.
Under the hood Online estate agency struggles to cash in on purple patch for property
UK house prices have hit new highs and sales are buoyant, but the upstarts that threatened to disrupt the industry have seen their market share slip back
This has been a blockbuster year for the branch network, Purplebricks spent Share prices have fallen for Purplebricks and Foxtons
UK housing market. Average prices heavily on marketing. Share price (pence)
have smashed through previous highs The Aim-listed group remains the Savills and LSL have more diversified revenue streams, with LSL running
and look set to end 2021 at least 10 per largest standalone agency brand, Both companies rely on a large surveying business and mortgage intermediary network, while
residential property sales Savills has commercial property businesses around the world
cent up from where they started it. accounting for almost one in 20 UK
Total sales will reach 1.5m, according sales last year. Purplebricks Foxtons Savills LSL Property Services
to estimates by property platform But the expansion of Purplebricks 500 100 1400 500
Zoopla, more than in any year since and its online peers has run aground.
2007 when the housing market was From a high point of just over 8 per cent 1200
running hot ahead of the financial crisis. of exchanges in late 2018, online agents 400 80 400
So why has Purplebricks, the biggest have slipped back to less than 7 per 1000
online-only estate agency, not fared cent of the overall share, according to
300 60 800 300
better during this frenzy? Listed in 2015, TwentyCi. Costs have increased too.
the company promised to disrupt the Purplebricks has historically relied on 52-week high
tired world of property sales. With no workers it regards as self-employed — 200 40 600 200
high street presence, it deploys roving local experts who could set their own
“local property experts” to market hours and use the Purplebricks platform 400
homes, for which it charges a flat fee of but who were not eligible for the 100 20 100
Price 200
£999, or £1,499 in and around London. benefits of full-time employment. Now
This is payable even if they do not sell, the company is shifting to a costlier full- 0 0 0 0
distinguishing it from traditional agents employment model. 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
which charge a commission for a sale. That shift is one factor behind a profit Source: Bloomberg
The company is among a crop of warning last month that sent the
online property groups that launched company’s shares tumbling. House sales boomed during the stamp duty holiday Strong demand during the pandemic has reduced supply
midway through the last decade, It comes as hundreds of current and
Number of transactions completed in the UK, by month (’000, seasonally adjusted) Average number of unsold houses on estate agents books (per branch)
confident they could do to traditional former Purplebricks agents prepare to
agencies what Uber did to the black cab. launch a pay claim against the company.
200 90
One competitor, easyProperty, They say that, despite being designated
announced its arrival in 2015 with a as self-employed, they were to all 180 80
mock funeral procession through the intents and purposes treated as full- 160
streets of central London. The company time employees and should therefore 70
hired orange-clad horses, a cart and a have been entitled to holiday pay, 140 60
jazz band to suggest that the death of pension benefits and sick pay. 120
the traditional agent was nigh. The claim will be filed this month and 50
100
Purplebricks, easyProperty and other follows similar, successful actions 40
online agencies did quickly eat up against Deliveroo and Uber by their 80
market share, accounting for almost 8 former workers. 30
60
per cent of all UK property exchanges in But Purplebricks’ recent struggles Increase in 20
2018, from just over 2 per cent in 2016, also owe something to runaway house 40 stamp duty
according to data company TwentyCi. sales. A glut of demand has resulted in a 20 on second Stamp duty 10
Supported by investment from Neil shortage of homes to sell. The company home holiday
0 0
Woodford and German media company said last month it was being instructed
2006 08 10 12 14 16 18 20 2005 10 15 20
Axel Springer and with a flexible on 40 per cent fewer sales than in the
Source: HMRC Transactions with a value of £40,000 or above. Aug 2021 onwards is provisional Source: UK Residential Market Survey (Oct 2021), Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors
workforce and no costly leases for a previous year. George Hammond
12 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
Airlines
Allianz sets
Omicron and monetary policy out measures
fears trigger volatility surge to reverse
slide in shares
IAN SMITH
INSURANCE CORRESPONDENT
A
higher quality, investment grade vaccine trials dominated the narrative. for more hawkish monetary policy and 98
t the end of a bumpy week corporate bonds, run by Ice Data Default rates remain low and are tighter financial conditions.
for low-rated corporate Services has been creeping upwards expected to remain low next year. And The economy added 210,000 new jobs
bonds, it is the US Federal since August on expectations that the for investors looking for higher returns last month, according to the Bureau of
Reserve, not the Omicron Fed would begin to wind down its $120bn with interest rates held low across the Labor Statistics, against 550,000 forecast
coronavirus variant, that per month bond-buying programme, globe, the US junk bond market remains by economists in a Refinitiv poll. 96
remains the biggest concern for sapping liquidity from markets. attractive. Meanwhile, the broader S&P 500 index Nov 2021 Dec
investors in the asset class. High-yield bonds are usually more Nonetheless, a more cautious tone is was down more than 1 per cent. Source: Refinitiv
By now, many debt investors have resilient to changes in Fed policy. The setting in, visible elsewhere on Wall The declines marked a volatile end to a
become used to sharp swings in markets yields on this debt are based more on an Street, too. The gap between short- and fortnight of trading characterised by big
after a flare-up in Covid-19 cases triggers long-dated Treasury yields has swings in asset prices. Mehdi, a strategist at HSBC Asset slowing global growth and the potential
a sell-off. The spread of Omicron is the narrowed to its smallest since January,
latest iteration and the tired response
Some investors warn that signalling slowing expectations for
Traders have been paying particularly
close attention to economic
Management, said that “for the Fed, this
[unemployment rate was] likely to be
for the Omicron coronavirus variant to
derail the economy recovery.
from glassy-eyed portfolio managers the Fed could find itself economic growth. developments after Federal Reserve chair enough evidence that the recovery in Germany has moved to impose social
points to the reflexive expectation that The Russell 2000 stock index of
debt prices will recover from the latest
tightening policy just as smaller, more domestically focused
Jay Powell on Tuesday signalled his
support for a quicker wind-down of the
employment is progressing at a decent
pace and with inflation at elevated levels,
curbs on unvaccinated people and US
president Joe Biden has announced
jolt. They have after every previous the economy begins to cool companies — seen as a barometer for the central bank’s $120bn a month bond- the case for a fast tapering of its asset measures to slow the spread of
Covid setback, after all. broader health of the US economy — fell purchases scheme. purchases remains intact”. coronavirus, including tighter testing
“We see it as a buying opportunity,” more than 10 per cent this week from its The programme has been a crucial In a sign of more investor unease, core requirements for international travellers.
echoed multiple bond managers in assessment of the higher risk of lending recent peak before a rebound on pillar for the rally in equities since the government debt, considered a haven In Europe, the Stoxx 600 index closed
conversations this week. In other words, to lower quality issuers. As such, a lower Thursday. depths of the coronavirus crisis last year. asset, rallied, taking the yield on the down 0.6 per cent, leaving the region-
the “buy the dip” mantra still holds for proportion of the overall yield of high- The Atlanta Fed is still forecasting While the economy added fewer jobs 10-year US Treasury note down 6 basis wide benchmark in the red for the third
many. Unlike previous shocks, though, yield debt represents base interest rates. stellar growth of about 10 per cent in the than forecast last month, the points to 1.38 per cent. consecutive week. London’s FTSE 100
this one has arrived just as crisis support And rising interest rates are offset by US for the fourth quarter but markets are unemployment rate still fell to its lowest Investors have been balancing a more declined 0.1 per cent. Joe Rennison and
measures for markets are beginning to improving corporate fundamentals, always attempting to look further out to level since the pandemic began. Hussain hawkish Fed against emerging signs of Naomi Rovnick
be pulled back. pulling down the risk of lending to low- where the economy is going, not where it
Fed chair Jay Powell said in testimony rated companies. is now.
to Congress this week that it may even be But even before Omicron roiled junk Some investors warn that the Fed Markets update
appropriate to accelerate the rollback of debt just over a week ago, yields had could find itself tightening monetary
these measures in a bid to combat high begun to rise in response to the Fed’s policy to combat inflation just as the
inflation, retiring his use of the word expected tapering of bond purchases. economy begins to cool down. And it is
“transitory” to describe the upward That cracks are emerging in the debt of here that the risk of Omicron — even if US Eurozone Japan UK China Brazil
pressure on prices. lower rated companies is unnerving, not the primary risk investors are Stocks S&P 500 Eurofirst 300 Nikkei 225 FTSE100 Shanghai Comp Bovespa
It constitutes a form of monetary especially given the deluge of lowly concerned about — comes into focus. Level 4509.72 1793.29 28029.57 7122.32 3607.43 105246.70
tightening — not what one would expect rated, triple C borrowers that have come Powell may have to choose whether to % change on day -1.47 -0.55 1.00 -0.10 0.94 0.75
if Omicron was expected to derail the to market this year, and the continued tackle inflation or tackle slowing growth. Currency $ index (DXY) $ per € Yen per $ $ per £ Rmb per $ Real per $
recovery. If it does end up curtailing weakening of lending standards and He may not be able to do both. Level 96.253 1.128 113.225 1.322 6.369 5.669
America’s current economic resurgence, investor protections in deal documents. In such a tug of war environment, % change on day 0.101 -0.353 0.230 -0.676 -0.066 0.659
then low-rated bond investors could face The recent sell-off means that the monetary policy error, as one bond fund Govt. bonds 10-year Treasury 10-year Bund 10-year JGB 10-year Gilt 10-year bond 10-year bond
a double-whammy. yield on an index of triple C rated debt manager put it, is the biggest potential Yield 1.375 -0.392 0.052 0.665 2.904 10.717
Tighter monetary policy pushes up came close to completing a round trip for risk heading into 2022. Basis point change on day -7.950 -2.200 -0.230 -5.900 1.100 -21.000
interest rates, increasing the cost of the year in November, having reached a World index, Commods FTSE All-World Oil - Brent Oil - WTI Gold Silver Metals (LMEX)
borrowing for companies and pushing peak in January of 8.33 per cent, joe.rennison@ft.com
Level 476.14 70.38 66.80 1789.25 22.86 4327.10
% change on day -0.86 -0.07 -0.70 -0.84 -0.02 -0.32
4640 7360
economy on track for a slowdown in mood or the optimistic assumption 1840
the first quarter of next year as that there was one in the first place. 4480 7200
inventories are wound down, reducing But what about all the money that the
1760 7040
new orders. An excess of finished goods public has in bank accounts or high- 4320
might also lead to consequent weak priced securities? According to Sterne,
| | | | | | | | |
pricing, moderating the inflation panic. “the only ones who have the savings 4160 || | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | 1680 || | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | 6880 | | | | | | | | | | |
For once, it seems, a US Federal Reserve are upper income people and they can Oct 2021 Dec Oct 2021 Dec Oct 2021 Dec
forecast — that high inflation was choose not to spend now. Consumer Biggest movers
A
transitory — could have been correct. debt levels are quite high. That is
% US Eurozone UK
s we have all become I have been following the reports of particularly the case for young people
Cooper Companies (the) 3.04 Akzo Nobel 2.54 Kingfisher 2.51
supply chain experts over economist Susan Sterne on the US — there was a substantial increase in
Nucor 2.69 Galp Energia 1.68 Pearson 2.22
the past year, more of us consumer for decades, and I do not borrowing for that age group.”
Ups
have become familiar with think anyone can match her obsessive- There have been headline increases Hewlett Packard Enterprise 2.37 Rwe 1.41 Berkeley Holdings (the) 2.02
the dread “bullwhip compulsive detail on buying trends, in pay for hourly workers such as those Eastman Chemical 2.22 Thales 1.16 Dcc 1.77
effect”, when shortages of goods inventory levels, sentiment indicators in Amazon warehouses or Walmart Dollar General 2.16 Lufthansa 1.10 Abrdn 1.70
unexpectedly turn into surpluses. Well, and labour force dynamics. stores. But the inflation that came with %
it seems the bullwhip has cracked, at Policymakers I know would agree. the recovery has eaten through most of Adobe -9.02 Thyssenkrupp -3.99 Ocado -3.18
least for many US retailers. According to Sterne, at the retail those raises. Dexcom -6.98 Vopak -3.83 Rio Tinto -3.02
Downs
Having spent months making level “this appears to be more a And the extra money flows from Tesla -6.67 Continental -3.67 Anglo American -2.96
excuses about stock shortages, they are shortage of demand than supply, which government payments to middle and Paycom Software -6.48 Safran -3.41 Scottish Mortgage Investment Trust -2.78
now trying to lure consumers back into is consistent with what the consumer lower income people have dried up in Advanced Micro Devices -6.23 Swatch -2.92 Bhp -2.74
Prices taken at 17:00 GMT Based on the constituents of the FTSE Eurofirst 300 Eurozone
the store or on to the website with recent months. Having reached a peak All data provided by Morningstar unless otherwise noted.
promises of sales, discounts and faster of close to $500bn in March, those
deliveries. But it seems the buying
For once, a US Federal were down to just above $200bn by
public are no longer so interested. Reserve forecast, that high October.
So goods such as furniture, Democrats in Congress and the Biden
inflation was transitory,
appliances and building materials, once
impossible to find, are piling up in could have been correct
administration had hoped to include
some fat transfer payment
Wall Street Europe London
warehouses and stores. programmes in the Build Back Better
Some evidence of this came with the says about current buying conditions”. package now straining through The US-listed shares of Didi Global dived Swedish Orphan Biovitrum tumbled An upgrade to its guidance lifted DIY
Chicago ISM, a midwest business Consumers, she says, are in a bad mood Congress. Those are being trimmed on news that the Chinese ride-hailing 24 per cent on news that its suitors were retailer Wickes as it forecast adjusted
barometer often seen as a leading and do not, for the most part, think back in negotiations now. Whatever group was planning to delist from the pulling out of buying the biotech group. pre-tax profit of “no less than £83m” for
indicator of economic activity this is a good time to buy things. comes out might be further cut by a New York Stock Exchange. Sobi announced in September that US the full year, which was above the
nationally. Its inventories index rose This sentiment, Sterne says, is a future Republican Congress. It was a big U-turn for the Chinese private equity firm Advent International £67m-£75m range stated in September.
8.5 points last month to 59.6, which was leading indicator as it is predictive of The public also knows tax increases group, which in June launched an initial and Singapore’s sovereign wealth fund Core sales were lower year on year
the highest since the US autumn in consumer spending. “I keep an eye on are coming and not just for billionaires. public offering that raised $4.4bn. GIC had teamed up through an entity “against tough comparatives”, said the
2018. Order backlogs for sale announcements on line and Payments on government sponsored Days after its US debut, though, China’s called Agnafit Bidco to buy the group for group but it was able to maintain a “better
manufacturers in the area dropped 18.8 arriving in the mail and every sale is student loans, a big burden on young cyber security regulator ordered Didi be SKr69bn ($8bn). than expected margin performance”.
points to 60.8, which is 6 points below being extended. Otherwise the retailers consumers, were deferred at the start taken off domestic app stores. But the bidders said yesterday that AJ Bell was impressed by the update.
the 12-month average. just won’t get the volume,” she says. of the pandemic. That deferral expires Property portal Zillow rallied after “since the acceptance level condition has “The most recent housing figures from
Likewise, the IHS Markit Purchasing If they don’t get that volume, they in February. announcing a share buyback programme not been fulfilled, Agnafit Bidco hereby Nationwide showed the heart of the
Managers Index for the US are going to have a lot of stuff, This suggests it will not take much in of up to $750m. withdraws the offer”. property market is still beating strongly,”
manufacturing sector for November especially durable goods such as the way of interest rate or energy price The group plummeted a month ago Investor AB, which has a 35 per cent said the broker “and, as part of the wider
pointed to increased inventory appliances, still lying around come rises to restrain “animal spirits” among after revealing that it would be winding stake in Sobi, replied: “Our focus is now to circulatory system, Wickes should be well
building. It said this often reflected January. “I think they [retailers and the public. And there will be deep down its home-flipping business. continue to create long-term value for placed to take advantage of this trend”.
concerns over future supplies. wholesalers] overestimated what discounts in stores next month. More than half the homes it expected Sobi’s shareholders.” Wickes’ rival Kingfisher, which runs the
This supply chain un-jamming seems people will rush out to buy,” she says. to re-sell during the wind-down process Swedish gaming group Evolution Screwfix and B&Q brands, also rallied.
to set the world’s largest consumer Nobody wants to spoil the holiday john.dizard@ft.com were under contract to be sold, had jumped on announcing that it would be A ratings upgrade lifted oil major BP
“reached an agreement on disposition returning money to investors. after Deutsche Bank raised its
MARKET DATA
-1.47% -2.72% -0.75% -0.10% -0.55% -0.09% -0.86% -0.353% -0.676% -0.84%
1.00% 0.230% 0.235% 1.74%
Stock Market movements over last 30 days, with the FTSE All-World in the same currency as a comparison
AMERICAS EUROPE ASIA
Nov 04 - - Index All World Nov 04 - Dec 03 Index All World Nov 04 - Dec 03 Index All World Nov 04 - Dec 03 Index All World Nov 04 - Dec 03 Index All World Nov 04 - Dec 03 Index All World
S&P 500 New York S&P/TSX COMP Toronto FTSE 100 London Xetra Dax Frankfurt Nikkei 225 Tokyo Kospi Seoul
4,680.06 16,029.65 29,520.90 2,983.22
21,342.13 7,279.91 2,968.33
4,509.72 7,122.32
20,572.59 15,169.98 28,029.57
Day -1.47% Month -3.21% Year 23.03% Day -0.91% Month -3.26% Year 18.25% Day -0.10% Month -1.91% Year 9.56% Day -0.61% Month -4.70% Year NaN% Day 1.00% Month -5.12% Year 4.51% Day 0.78% Month -1.50% Year 10.93%
Nasdaq Composite New York IPC Mexico City FTSE Eurofirst 300 Europe Ibex 35 Madrid Hang Seng Hong Kong FTSE Straits Times Singapore
15,811.58 51,876.81 1,869.90 9,039.40 25,225.19 3,232.37
50,974.74
14,963.66 1,793.29 8,241.70 23,766.69 3,092.11
Day -2.72% Month -5.33% Year 20.94% Day 0.09% Month -1.74% Year 16.03% Day -0.55% Month -3.95% Year 18.35% Day -0.71% Month -9.49% Year 0.25% Day -0.09% Month -5.51% Year -10.61% Day 0.32% Month -4.03% Year 10.36%
Dow Jones Industrial New York Bovespa São Paulo CAC 40 Paris FTSE MIB Milan Shanghai Composite Shanghai BSE Sensex Mumbai
36,157.58 27,522.05 3,607.43
6,987.79 60,029.06
105,616.88 105,246.70 3,526.87
6,765.52 57,696.46
34,379.93 25,938.52
Day -0.75% Month -4.86% Year 14.79% Day 0.75% Month -0.34% Year -6.26% Day -0.44% Month -2.33% Year 21.18% Day -0.26% Month -4.77% Year 17.85% Day 0.94% Month 2.90% Year 4.58% Day -1.31% Month -3.78% Year 29.46%
Country Index Latest Previous Country Index Latest Previous Country Index Latest Previous Country Index Latest Previous Country Index Latest Previous Country Index Latest Previous
Argentina Merval 85256.40 87451.27 Cyprus
CSE M&P Gen 68.46 68.68 Italy FTSE Italia All-Share 28391.96 28515.74 Philippines Manila Comp 7055.19 7032.54 Taiwan Weighted Pr 17697.14 17724.88 Cross-Border DJ Global Titans ($) 520.13 529.67
Australia All Ordinaries 7543.60 7536.10 Czech Republic
PX 1362.79 1363.22 FTSE Italia Mid Cap 47870.95 48039.64 Poland Wig 67643.95 68203.86 Thailand Bangkok SET 1588.19 1591.84 Euro Stoxx 50 (Eur) 4069.25 4108.02
S&P/ASX 200 7241.20 7225.20 Denmark
OMXC Copenahgen 20 1753.72 1760.71 FTSE MIB 25938.52 26005.40 Portugal PSI 20 5417.41 5423.80 Turkey BIST 100 1910.41 1880.06 Euronext 100 ID 1298.50 1307.80
S&P/ASX 200 Res 4935.30 4907.50 Egypt
EGX 30 11318.35 11420.00 Japan 2nd Section 7375.22 7276.49 PSI General 4081.41 4094.23 UAE Abu Dhabi General Index 8546.52 8478.59 FTSE 4Good Global ($) 11169.13 11297.36
Austria ATX 3697.77 3689.99 Estonia
OMX Tallinn 1987.00 1961.81 Nikkei 225 28029.57 27753.37 Romania BET Index 12379.50 12207.91 UK FT 30 2692.30 2690.30 FTSE All World ($) 476.14 480.26
Belgium BEL 20 4123.99 4158.02 Finland
OMX Helsinki General 12271.96 12404.20 S&P Topix 150 1681.16 1657.03 Russia Micex Index 3913.06 3947.54 FTSE 100 7122.32 7129.21 FTSE E300 1793.29 1803.21
BEL Mid 10122.74 10187.73 France
CAC 40 6765.52 6795.75 Topix 1957.86 1926.37 RTX 1668.26 1690.13 FTSE 4Good UK 6632.94 6643.17 FTSE Eurotop 100 3380.99 3397.76
Brazil IBovespa 105246.70 104466.24 SBF 120 5259.98 5284.54 Jordan Amman SE 2066.29 2071.22 Saudi-Arabia TADAWUL All Share Index 10882.79 10849.96 FTSE All Share 4059.32 4063.89 FTSE Global 100 ($) 2962.70 3002.95
Canada S&P/TSX 60 1247.93 1257.81
Germany M-DAX 33711.12 33774.43 Kenya NSE 20 1866.08 1866.08 Singapore FTSE Straits Times 3101.93 3092.11 FTSE techMARK 100 6603.57 6636.98 FTSE Gold Min ($) 1922.57 1966.52
S&P/TSX Comp 20572.59 20762.03 TecDAX 3759.02 3773.22 Kuwait KSX Market Index 6633.44 6603.51 Slovakia SAX 396.14 398.46 USA DJ Composite 11634.03 11691.81 FTSE Latibex Top (Eur) 4440.00 4432.20
S&P/TSX Div Met & Min 1011.82 994.26 XETRA Dax 15169.98 15263.11 Latvia OMX Riga 1269.58 1268.74 Slovenia SBI TOP - - DJ Industrial 34379.93 34639.79 FTSE Multinationals ($) 3189.24 3178.18
Chile S&P/CLX IGPA Gen 21922.04 21890.20
Greece Athens Gen 879.00 876.89 Lithuania OMX Vilnius 965.47 961.99 South Africa FTSE/JSE All Share 70807.60 71020.76 DJ Transport 15903.49 15949.23 FTSE World ($) 857.67 864.88
China FTSE A200 13094.77 12979.48 FTSE/ASE 20 2111.31 2101.38 Luxembourg LuxX 1559.50 1567.54 FTSE/JSE Res 20 66503.31 67556.80 DJ Utilities 905.95 904.10 FTSEurofirst 100 (Eur) 4553.28 4579.96
FTSE B35 9000.71 8988.96
Hong Kong Hang Seng 23766.69 23788.93 Malaysia FTSE Bursa KLCI 1501.74 1496.93 FTSE/JSE Top 40 64306.68 64555.25 Nasdaq 100 15585.82 15990.76 FTSEurofirst 80 (Eur) 5679.23 5713.72
Shanghai A 3780.96 3745.77 HS China Enterprise 8455.45 8506.36 Mexico IPC 50974.74 50927.38 South Korea Kospi 2968.33 2945.27 Nasdaq Cmp 14963.66 15381.32 MSCI ACWI Fr ($) 730.10 724.65
Shanghai B 285.97 283.06 HSCC Red Chip 3833.50 3805.78 Morocco MASI 13231.41 13170.19 Kospi 200 391.96 389.64 NYSE Comp 16261.71 16475.25 MSCI All World ($) 3111.17 3087.98
Shanghai Comp 3607.43 3573.84
Hungary Bux 50904.91 51420.71 Netherlands AEX 772.22 778.80 Spain IBEX 35 8241.70 8300.80 S&P 500 4509.72 4577.10 MSCI Europe (Eur) 1851.72 1873.46
Shenzhen A 2643.67 2624.91
India BSE Sensex 57696.46 58461.29 AEX All Share 1064.79 1076.47 Sri Lanka CSE All Share 10988.32 11252.30 Wilshire 5000 46041.73 46902.70 MSCI Pacific ($) 3050.46 3064.77
Shenzhen B 1193.47 1181.77 Nifty 500 14856.30 14973.95 New Zealand NZX 50 12676.50 12670.24 Sweden OMX Stockholm 30 2240.83 2263.20 Venezuela IBC 6452.76 6447.72 S&P Euro (Eur) 1901.71 1914.11
Colombia COLCAP 1261.61 1260.21
Indonesia Jakarta Comp 6538.51 6583.82 Nigeria SE All Share 42247.98 42463.16 OMX Stockholm AS 974.90 988.78 Vietnam VNI 1443.32 1482.05 S&P Europe 350 (Eur) 1844.09 1855.10
Croatia CROBEX 2013.05 2011.29
Ireland ISEQ Overall 7859.89 7935.25 Norway Oslo All Share 1017.37 1006.88 Switzerland SMI Index 12175.77 12177.52 S&P Global 1200 ($) 3375.85 3411.86
Israel Tel Aviv 125 1955.89 1980.61 Pakistan KSE 100 43232.83 43234.15 Stoxx 50 (Eur) 3603.89 3626.34
(c) Closed. (u) Unavaliable. † Correction. ♥ Subject to official recalculation. For more index coverage please see www.ft.com/worldindices. A fuller version of this table is available on the ft.com research data archive.
CURRENCIES
DOLLAR EURO POUND DOLLAR EURO POUND DOLLAR EURO POUND DOLLAR EURO POUND
Closing Day's Closing Day's Closing Day's Closing Day's Closing Day's Closing Day's Closing Day's Closing Day's Closing Day's Closing Day's Closing Day's Closing Day's
Dec 3 Currency Mid Change Mid Change Mid Change Dec 3 Currency Mid Change Mid Change Mid Change Dec 3 Currency Mid Change Mid Change Mid Change Dec 3 Currency Mid Change Mid Change Mid Change
Argentina Argentine Peso 101.1582 0.0809 114.1070 -0.2868 133.7310 -0.7767 Indonesia Indonesian Rupiah 14397.5000 20.0000 16240.4892 -31.2091 19033.5161 -99.2712 Poland Polish Zloty 4.0733 0.0096 4.5947 -0.0044 5.3848 -0.0228 ..Three Month 0.7565 0.0050 0.8531 0.0028 - -
Australia Australian Dollar 1.4252 0.0161 1.6076 0.0128 1.8841 0.0089 Israel Israeli Shekel 3.1619 -0.0057 3.5666 -0.0183 4.1800 -0.0352 Romania Romanian Leu 4.3875 0.0133 4.9492 -0.0013 5.8003 -0.0206 ..One Year 0.7562 0.0050 0.8522 0.0028 - -
Bahrain Bahrainin Dinar 0.3769 -0.0002 0.4251 -0.0016 0.4982 -0.0035 Japan Japanese Yen 113.2250 0.2600 127.7185 -0.1293 149.6834 -0.6440 Russia Russian Ruble 73.9100 0.3063 83.3709 0.0701 97.7090 -0.2387 United States United States Dollar - - 1.1280 -0.0037 1.3220 -0.0087
Bolivia Bolivian Boliviano 6.9100 - 7.7945 -0.0258 9.1350 -0.0604 ..One Month 113.2249 0.2599 127.7186 -0.1291 149.6834 -0.6440 Saudi Arabia Saudi Riyal 3.7514 - 4.2316 -0.0140 4.9593 -0.0328 ..One Month - - 1.1279 -0.2027 1.3221 -0.0088
Brazil Brazilian Real 5.6689 0.0371 6.3945 0.0208 7.4942 -0.0002 ..Three Month 113.2249 0.2598 127.7187 -0.1289 149.6833 -0.6442 Singapore Singapore Dollar 1.3722 0.0047 1.5479 0.0001 1.8140 -0.0058 ..Three Month - - 1.1277 -0.2027 1.3221 -0.0088
Canada Canadian Dollar 1.2791 -0.0035 1.4428 -0.0087 1.6909 -0.0158 ..One Year 113.2243 0.2586 127.7190 -0.1283 149.6834 -0.6452 South Africa South African Rand 16.1025 0.2363 18.1637 0.2071 21.2875 0.1736 ..One Year - - 1.1269 -0.2027 1.3218 -0.0087
Chile Chilean Peso 840.9250 2.0250 948.5686 -0.8537 1111.7024 -4.6578 Kenya Kenyan Shilling 112.7000 0.0500 127.1263 -0.3650 148.9893 -0.9188 South Korea South Korean Won 1180.1500 4.2500 1331.2165 0.3956 1560.1578 -4.6628 Vietnam Vietnamese Dong 22840.0000 105.0000 25763.7005 33.4105 30194.5131 -59.9268
China Chinese Yuan 6.3692 -0.0042 7.1845 -0.0286 8.4201 -0.0613 Kuwait Kuwaiti Dinar 0.3025 0.0002 0.3412 -0.0009 0.3998 -0.0024 Sweden Swedish Krona 9.1704 0.1295 10.3442 0.1123 12.1232 0.0922 European Union Euro 0.8865 0.0029 - - 1.1720 -0.0039
Colombia Colombian Peso 3960.0000 9.1100 4466.9060 -4.5020 5235.1197 -22.5011 Malaysia Malaysian Ringgit 4.2310 0.0010 4.7726 -0.0147 5.5934 -0.0357 Switzerland Swiss Franc 0.9202 0.0009 1.0379 -0.0024 1.2164 -0.0068 ..One Month 0.8864 0.0029 - - 1.1719 -0.0039
Costa Rica Costa Rican Colon 630.9650 0.8050 711.7324 -1.4490 834.1354 -4.4456 Mexico Mexican Peso 21.4365 0.1590 24.1805 0.0998 28.3390 0.0242 Taiwan New Taiwan Dollar 27.7135 -0.0310 31.2610 -0.1387 36.6372 -0.2836 ..Three Month 0.8863 0.0029 - - 1.1718 -0.0038
Czech Republic Czech Koruna 22.5297 0.0512 25.4136 -0.0263 29.7842 -0.1289 New Zealand New Zealand Dollar 1.4800 0.0126 1.6694 0.0087 1.9565 0.0038 Thailand Thai Baht 33.8825 0.0125 38.2197 -0.1126 44.7926 -0.2796 ..One Year 0.8854 0.0029 - - 1.1710 -0.0038
Denmark Danish Krone 6.5923 0.0220 7.4362 0.0002 8.7151 -0.0284 Nigeria Nigerian Naira 413.7500 - 466.7125 -1.5476 546.9773 -3.6176 Tunisia Tunisian Dinar 2.8838 0.0037 3.2529 -0.0066 3.8123 -0.0203
Egypt Egyptian Pound 15.7097 0.0310 17.7206 -0.0237 20.7682 -0.0961 Norway Norwegian Krone 9.1792 0.0873 10.3541 0.0644 12.1348 0.0359 Turkey Turkish Lira 13.7350 -0.0610 15.4932 -0.1204 18.1577 -0.2013
Hong Kong Hong Kong Dollar 7.7928 -0.0002 8.7903 -0.0294 10.3021 -0.0684 Pakistan Pakistani Rupee 176.5000 - 199.0931 -0.6602 233.3329 -1.5432 United Arab Emirates UAE Dirham 3.6731 - 4.1433 -0.0137 4.8558 -0.0321
Hungary Hungarian Forint 323.4663 2.2381 364.8720 1.3230 427.6223 0.1501 Peru Peruvian Nuevo Sol 4.0760 0.0005 4.5978 -0.0147 5.3885 -0.0350 United Kingdom Pound Sterling 0.7564 0.0050 0.8533 0.0028 - -
India Indian Rupee 75.1688 0.1750 84.7908 -0.0831 99.3730 -0.4244 Philippines Philippine Peso 50.3800 -0.0300 56.8289 -0.2224 66.6023 -0.4804 ..One Month 0.7565 0.0050 0.8532 0.0028 - -
Rates are derived from WM Reuters Spot Rates and MorningStar (latest rates at time of production). Some values are rounded. Currency redenominated by 1000. The exchange rates printed in this table are also available at www.FT.com/marketsdata
UK SERIES
FTSE ACTUARIES SHARE INDICES www.ft.com/equities FT 30 INDEX FTSE SECTORS: LEADERS & LAGGARDS FTSE 100 SUMMARY
Produced in conjunction with the Institute and Faculty of Actuaries Dec 03 Dec 02 Dec 01 Nov 30 Nov 29 Yr Ago High Low
Year to date percentage changes Closing Day's Closing Day's
£ Strlg Day's Euro £ Strlg £ Strlg Year Div P/E X/D Total FT 30 2692.30 2690.30 2714.70 2677.00 2699.20 0.00 2870.10
Beverages 2450.90 30.44 FTSE SmallCap Index 16.34 Consumer Services 6.98 FTSE 100 Price Change FTSE 100 Price Change
Dec 03 chge% Index Dec 02 Dec 01 ago yield% Cover ratio adj Return FT 30 Div Yield - - - - - 0.00 3.93
Oil & Gas Producers2.74 29.92 Aerospace & Defense 15.34 Mining 5.94 3I Group PLC 1408.5 8.50 Johnson Matthey PLC 2043 4.00
FTSE 100 (101) 7122.32 -0.10 6499.21 7129.21 7168.68 6490.27 3.46 2.10 13.77 242.54 7047.52 P/E Ratio net - - - - - 0.00 19.44
Support Services 14.26 29.03 Industrial Transport 14.00 Life Insurance 4.31 Abrdn PLC 233.90 3.90 Kingfisher PLC 331.00 8.10
FTSE 250 (250) 22646.08 -0.17 20664.85 22684.84 22912.73 20132.44 1.94 3.46 14.85 427.62 18319.67 FT 30 hourly changes Oil & Gas 28.68 Software & Comp Serv 13.19 Consumer Goods 1.32 Admiral Group PLC 2961 -27.00 Land Securities Group PLC 745.00 3.20
FTSE 250 ex Inv Co (183) 23407.58 -0.24 21359.72 23464.14 23675.20 20639.85 1.89 1.16 45.61 384.67 19301.78 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 High Low Fixed Line Telecomms 25.70 Technology 13.08 Telecommunications 1.32 Anglo American PLC 2717 -83.00 Legal & General Group PLC 285.90 2.40
FTSE 350 (351) 4078.56 -0.11 3721.74 4083.04 4108.89 3700.05 3.20 2.24 13.95 127.85 8019.79 2690.3 2700 2698.3 2692.4 2699.5 2702.3 2704.5 2693 2690.5 2719 2686.1 Real Est Invest & Tr 21.30 Pharmace & Biotech 12.81 Beverages 31.66 Antofagasta PLC 1350.5 -37.50 Lloyds Banking Group PLC 46.48 -0.45
FTSE 350 ex Investment Trusts (282) 3971.60 -0.09 3624.14 3975.30 3997.48 3606.54 3.28 1.92 15.89 98.19 4033.29 FT30 constituents and recent additions/deletions can be found at www.ft.com/ft30 Media 21.07 Food & Drug Retailer 12.55 Household Goods & Ho -1.45 Ashtead Group PLC 6090 -22.00 London Stock Exchange Group PLC 6524 -58.00
FTSE 350 Higher Yield (113) 3224.16 0.12 2942.09 3220.26 3223.67 2937.89 4.77 1.58 13.23 143.89 7064.44 Industrial Eng 20.69 Tech Hardware & Eq 12.12 Financial Services -2.69 Associated British Foods PLC 1930 -9.00 M&G PLC 192.10 2.60
FTSE 350 Lower Yield (238) 4689.67 -0.36 4279.38 4706.50 4762.93 4233.72 1.50 4.49 14.81 82.94 5651.19
FTSE SmallCap (253) 7231.10 -0.19 6598.47 7244.95 7267.57 6064.99 2.54 4.55 8.66 168.97 11773.35 FX: EFFECTIVE INDICES Chemicals
Industrials
20.12
19.89
NON FINANCIALS Index
Health Care
11.45
10.86
Tobacco
Nonlife Insurance
-3.44
-5.08
Astrazeneca PLC 8191 -40.00 Meggitt PLC 739.80 1.20
Auto Trader Group PLC 715.40 3.80 Melrose Industries PLC 144.20 -1.50
FTSE SmallCap ex Inv Co (133) 5992.90 -0.37 5468.60 6015.02 6018.34 4798.45 2.09 1.23 38.87 106.66 10163.52
Dec 02 Dec 01 Mnth Ago Dec 03 Dec 02 Mnth Ago Industrial Metals & 19.83 Electricity 10.72 Travel & Leisure -6.09 Avast PLC 605.00 3.00 Mondi PLC 1785 -14.50
FTSE All-Share (604) 4059.32 -0.11 3704.18 4063.89 4089.19 3672.88 3.18 2.30 13.67 126.16 8061.00 Gas Water & Multi 19.63 FTSE 250 Index 10.53 Food Producers -6.27 Aveva Group PLC 3207 -27.00 National Grid PLC 1002.4 16.60
FTSE All-Share ex Inv Co (415) 3912.33 -0.10 3570.05 3916.17 3937.67 3544.37 3.26 1.91 16.06 96.26 4034.30 UK 81.47 81.37 82.01 Real Est Invest & Se 19.60 FTSE All{HY-}Share Index 10.50 Mobile Telecomms -6.99 Aviva PLC 392.80 1.50 Natwest Group PLC 216.80 -0.50
FTSE All-Share ex Multinationals (533) 1304.00 -0.11 988.25 1305.37 1318.79 1180.83 2.58 3.48 11.14 32.77 2679.80 Source: Bank of England. New Sterling ERI base Jan 2005 = 100. Other indices base average 1990 = 100. Banks 17.90 FTSE 100 Index 10.24 Health Care Eq & Srv -9.02 B&M European Value Retail S.A. 639.00 10.60 Next PLC 7992 -6.00
FTSE Fledgling (84) 13100.65 0.05 11954.51 13093.55 13194.60 10019.82 2.21 7.03 6.43 263.84 27540.26 Index rebased 1/2/95. for further information about ERIs see www.bankofengland.co.uk Construct & Material 17.75 General Retailers 9.93 Personal Goods -9.65 Bae Systems PLC 550.80 -0.80 Ocado Group PLC 1626.5 -53.50
FTSE Fledgling ex Inv Co (35) 17193.59 -0.65 15689.38 17306.16 17566.06 108.90 1.73 -3.04 -18.98 255.01 35152.16 Utilities 17.28 Financials 9.38 Leisure Goods -15.65 Barclays PLC 186.66 -0.58 Pearson PLC 589.00 12.80
FTSE All-Small (337) 5035.31 -0.18 4594.78 5044.26 5061.29 4201.76 2.52 4.67 8.50 116.74 10516.35 Electronic & Elec Eq 16.62 Equity Invest Instr 8.60 Automobiles & Parts -24.05 Barratt Developments PLC 718.80 7.80 Pershing Square Holdings LTD 2930 15.00
FTSE All-Small ex Inv Co (168) 4500.35 -0.38 4106.63 4517.44 4522.38 107.73 2.08 1.10 43.85 79.69 9666.67 Basic Materials 7.83 Oil Equipment & Serv -38.16 Berkeley Group Holdings (The) PLC 4549 90.00 Persimmon PLC 2806 19.00
FTSE AIM All-Share (743) 1182.30 -0.54 1078.87 1188.74 1196.05 1066.21 0.93 1.54 69.83 10.60 1369.53
Bhp Group PLC 2041.5 -57.50 Phoenix Group Holdings PLC 643.20 2.40
FTSE All-Share Technology (22) 2289.99 -0.33 2086.34 2297.61 2330.67 2051.44 1.49 0.85 78.58 21.12 3250.92
FTSE All-Share Telecommunications (7) 1827.06 -0.01 1664.58 1827.22 1832.90 1876.62 4.55 0.31 69.81 81.43 2633.15 FTSE GLOBAL EQUITY INDEX SERIES BP PLC
British American Tobacco PLC
340.85
2583.5
4.25
35.00
Polymetal International PLC
Prudential PLC
1355
1281
-5.00
10.50
FTSE All-Share Health Care (13) 12513.19 -0.39 11400.39 12562.75 12661.42 11648.39 3.22 0.48 64.10 237.40 11276.62 Dec 3 No of US $ Day Mth YTD Total
YTD Gr Div Dec 3 No of US $ Day Mth YTD Total YTD Gr Div British Land Company PLC 517.60 -3.00 Reckitt Benckiser Group PLC 6185 25.00
FTSE All-Share Financials (253) 4773.91 -0.17 4349.37 4781.95 4841.82 4436.53 2.75 5.44 6.67 99.72 5123.13 Regions & countries stocks indices % % % retn
% Yield Sectors stocks indices % % % retn % Yield Bt Group PLC 168.60 -0.40 Relx PLC 2344 -
FTSE All-Share Real Estate (56) 1198.48 -0.52 1142.25 1204.74 1213.16 993.38 2.45 2.07 19.65 21.94 1221.15
FTSE Global All Cap 9368 818.81 0.8 -3.0 12.5
14.5 1284.11
1.8 Oil Equipment & Services 26 230.23 1.6 1.6 21.6 408.55 27.2 4.8 Bunzl PLC 2855 3.00 Rentokil Initial PLC 610.60 -1.00
FTSE All-Share Consumer Discretionary (91) 5231.10 0.05 4765.90 5228.62 5267.65 4942.37 1.54 0.09 712.80 67.45 5418.72
FTSE Global All Cap 9368 818.81 0.8 -3.0 12.5
14.5 1284.11
1.8 Basic Materials 370 640.45 0.2 0.2 5.0 1128.83 8.9 3.9 Burberry Group PLC 1765.5 -2.00 Rightmove PLC 738.00 -6.80
FTSE All-Share Consumer Staples (25)19049.45 0.34 17355.39 18984.83 19003.54 18309.50 3.91 1.23 20.86 565.05 16795.02
FTSE Global Large Cap 1799 734.14 0.6 -2.4 12.7
14.8 1186.50
1.8 Chemicals 172 929.83 0.4 0.4 6.8 1596.95 9.1 2.2 Coca-Cola Hbc AG 2360 -21.00 Rio Tinto PLC 4578.5 -142.50
FTSE All-Share Industrials (88) 7168.97 -0.13 6531.43 7178.51 7221.03 5892.10 1.67 2.74 21.85 101.67 8117.00
FTSE Global Mid Cap 2302 1035.02 1.3 -3.8 12.9
14.8 1526.71
1.8 Forestry & Paper 21 299.13 0.8 0.8 -5.4 584.00 -2.9 2.7 Compass Group PLC 1511.5 -2.00 Rolls-Royce Holdings PLC 124.90 -0.54
FTSE All-Share Basic Materials (25) 7742.57 -1.95 7054.02 7896.26 7971.91 7051.53 6.74 2.41 6.15 367.08 9915.01
FTSE Global Small Cap 5267 1108.12 1.3 -5.6 10.1
11.6 1566.18
1.5 Industrial Metals & Mining 97 522.57 1.5 1.5 11.5 947.20 17.7 5.8 Crh PLC 3678 -2.00 Royal Dutch Shell PLC 1646.6 17.40
FTSE All-Share Energy (14) 6051.01 1.06 5512.89 5987.50 5912.78 4894.87 3.68 1.66 16.34 174.61 7087.62
FTSE All-World 4101 480.26 0.7 -2.7 12.8
14.8 797.45
1.8 Mining 80 874.17 -1.1 -1.1 -0.7 1603.64 4.9 6.0 Croda International PLC 9824 -34.00 Royal Dutch Shell PLC 1651.4 18.20
FTSE All-Share Utilities (10) 8372.19 1.25 7627.66 8268.46 8382.18 6969.92 4.28 1.65 14.20 314.67 12228.98
FTSE World 2663 864.88 0.7 -2.6 14.3
16.4 1927.50
1.8 Industrials 757 576.93 1.2 1.2 10.1 901.90 11.7 1.5 Darktrace PLC 426.80 -7.00 Royal Mail PLC 485.70 2.70
FTSE All-Share Software and Computer Services (20) 2461.49 -0.21 2242.59 2466.75 2502.27 2218.88 1.49 0.85 78.99 22.29 3697.12
FTSE Global All Cap ex UNITED KINGDOM In 9075 867.61 0.8 -2.9 12.7
14.6 1335.27
1.7 Construction & Materials 145 707.15 0.9 0.9 14.8 1164.80 16.9 1.8 Dcc PLC 5742 100.00 Sage Group PLC 775.20 1.60
FTSE All-Share Technology Hardware and Equipment (2) 6463.79 -3.68 5888.97 6710.53 6805.25 4365.73 1.59 0.93 68.07 88.39 8198.35
FTSE Global All Cap ex USA 7545 582.47 -0.4 -4.1 3.35.8 1003.70
2.5 Aerospace & Defense 35 761.17 2.4 2.4 3.8 1170.91 5.2 1.5 Diageo PLC 3846.5 5.00 Sainsbury (J) PLC 278.20 -0.60
FTSE All-Share Telecommunications Equipment (2) 630.00 -0.75 573.97 634.74 641.76 602.72 1.43 2.69 26.03 5.80 881.77
FTSE Global All Cap ex JAPAN 7976 853.72 0.9 -2.9 13.6
15.6 1351.09
1.7 General Industrials 72 268.94 1.2 1.2 6.3 463.73 8.4 2.1 Entain PLC 1639 -24.00 Schroders PLC 3437 -7.00
FTSE All-Share Telecommunications Service Providers (5) 2819.19 0.02 2568.48 2818.58 2826.43 2902.15 4.68 0.29 74.93 130.01 3697.35
FTSE Global All Cap ex Eurozone 8708 865.82 1.0 -2.7 13.0
14.9 1329.22
1.7 Electronic & Electrical Equipment 143 778.31 0.5 0.5 16.3 1100.90 17.7 1.2 Evraz PLC 585.80 -4.40 Scottish Mortgage Investment Trust PLC 1396.5 -40.00
FTSE All-Share Health Care Providers (3) 7981.51 -1.74 7271.71 8122.76 8138.89 6013.29 0.13 53.19 14.48 6.62 7368.50
FTSE Developed 2210 794.40 0.7 -2.7 14.8
16.7 1255.77
1.7 Industrial Engineering 147 1117.55 0.9 0.9 9.0 1740.89 10.7 1.6 Experian PLC 3450 -8.00 Segro PLC 1376.5 -19.00
FTSE All-Share Medical Equipment and Services (2) 5744.07 -0.67 5233.25 5782.95 5794.22 6789.88 2.21 1.07 42.18 126.98 5406.99
FTSE Developed All Cap 5824 829.81 0.8 -3.1 14.3
16.2 1292.65
1.7 Industrial Transportation 126 1050.17 1.5 1.5 14.5 1653.75 16.3 1.6 Ferguson PLC 11615 -40.00 Severn Trent PLC 2846 24.00
FTSE All-Share Pharmaceuticals and Biotechnology (8)17732.69 -0.36 16155.73 17797.53 17945.00 16284.82 3.32 0.44 68.50 335.72 14384.00
FTSE Developed Large Cap 887 746.16 0.6 -2.4 15.1
17.1 1200.63
1.7 Support Services 89 684.22 1.4 1.4 6.4 1004.19 7.4 1.1 Flutter Entertainment PLC 10030 -100.00 Smith & Nephew PLC 1230 -9.50
FTSE All-Share Banks (11) 2909.96 -0.46 2651.18 2923.31 2930.58 2654.27 2.71 5.96 6.19 45.06 2471.43
FTSE Developed Europe Large Cap 237 426.22 -1.3 -5.1 8.5
11.5 818.74
2.6 Consumer Goods 540 665.64 0.2 0.2 8.9 1095.05 10.9 1.9 Fresnillo PLC 883.40 -9.00 Smith (Ds) PLC 372.60 0.50
FTSE All-Share Finance and Credit Services (7) 9409.02 -0.63 8572.28 9468.59 9686.75 12378.23 1.52 1.58 41.52 128.18 12405.82
FTSE Developed Europe Mid Cap 351 737.57 -1.1 -5.4 5.68.0 1233.55
2.3 Automobiles & Parts 128 780.80 -0.3 -0.3 27.5 1241.97 28.9 1.0 Glaxosmithkline PLC 1534.6 0.60 Smiths Group PLC 1468.5 14.00
FTSE All-Share Investment Banking and Brokerage Services (33)10264.65 0.25 9351.82 10238.81 10446.35 9420.49 3.84 2.78 9.36 317.70 13777.71
FTSE Dev Europe Small Cap 721 1056.06 -1.2 -5.9 9.6
11.7 1695.84
1.9 Beverages 68 746.04 0.6 0.6 0.9 1241.85 3.1 2.2 Glencore PLC 351.90 -2.75 Smurfit Kappa Group PLC 3845 -16.00
FTSE All-Share Closed End Investments (189)14013.16 -0.30 12766.97 14055.56 14279.36 12461.90 2.06 10.51 4.62 218.93 8560.24
FTSE North America Large Cap 256 1003.97 1.2 -1.5 20.9
22.5 1485.25
1.3 Food Producers 132 732.80 0.6 0.6 2.1 1234.75 4.4 2.4 Halma PLC 3004 10.00 Spirax-Sarco Engineering PLC 15685 5.00
FTSE All-Share Life Insurance (6) 7641.78 0.70 6962.20 7588.91 7746.45 6991.55 3.50 2.27 12.55 267.54 8970.04
FTSE North America Mid Cap 414 1260.26 2.5 -3.1 18.9
20.4 1720.09
1.4 Household Goods & Home Construction 61 610.46 0.9 0.9 6.0 1002.72 8.5 2.4 Hargreaves Lansdown PLC 1310.5 3.50 Sse PLC 1607.5 23.00
FTSE All-Share Nonlife Insurance (7) 3541.23 -0.40 3226.31 3555.47 3562.24 3722.55 4.03 1.60 15.53 125.32 7256.75
FTSE North America Small Cap 1332 1281.21 2.4 -6.2 12.0
13.1 1681.33
1.2 Leisure Goods 47 309.77 0.0 0.0 -6.1 432.18 -5.1 1.2 Hikma Pharmaceuticals PLC 2197 -6.00 St. James's Place PLC 1561.5 -3.00
FTSE All-Share Real Estate Investment and Services (15) 2987.41 -0.77 2721.74 3010.67 3041.75 2537.96 1.64 2.72 22.45 35.75 8731.81
FTSE North America 670 652.41 1.4 -1.8 20.5
22.1 1.3 Personal Goods
986.31 89 1129.96 0.0 0.0 7.2 1708.67 8.7 1.4 HSBC Holdings PLC 429.70 -1.90 Standard Chartered PLC 425.90 -2.20
FTSE All-Share Real Estate Investment Trusts (41) 2980.26 -0.46 2715.23 2994.06 3012.67 2453.28 2.64 1.98 19.10 57.78 4367.17
FTSE Developed ex North America 1540 303.52 -0.8 -4.7 3.66.1 563.65
2.5 Tobacco 15 904.75 0.9 0.9 -0.4 2409.12 4.3 6.7 Imperial Brands PLC 1559 11.00 Taylor Wimpey PLC 163.00 1.20
FTSE All-Share Automobiles and Parts (2) 3519.89 -1.41 3206.87 3570.32 3770.33 3913.65 1.34 -8.37 -8.88 10.66 3635.27
FTSE Japan Large Cap 172 449.50 -0.4 -3.6 -0.91.1 2.1 Health Care
643.79 338 741.21 -0.1 -0.1 8.0 1161.06 9.8 1.6 Informa PLC 464.40 -4.40 Tesco PLC 280.10 2.25
FTSE All-Share Consumer Services (3) 2507.69 -0.16 2284.69 2511.61 2488.01 2462.36 0.01 110.73 65.31 0.13 3138.70
FTSE Japan Mid Cap 338 605.88 -0.8 -6.9 -6.0
-4.0 823.59
2.4 Health Care Equipment & Services 129 1551.14 0.5 0.5 11.5 1884.11 12.3 0.8 Intercontinental Hotels Group PLC 4544 -11.00 Unilever PLC 3879 7.00
FTSE All-Share Household Goods and Home Construction (13)14326.24 0.99 13052.21 14185.39 14224.27 14013.24 5.19 1.65 11.65 458.95 11978.64
FTSE Global wi JAPAN Small Cap 882 682.49 -0.6 -6.2 -4.3
-2.3 961.47
2.5 Pharmaceuticals & Biotechnology 209 469.02 -0.6 -0.6 5.5 785.78 7.9 2.3 Intermediate Capital Group PLC 2161 21.00 United Utilities Group PLC 1085.5 5.00
FTSE All-Share Leisure Goods (2) 23719.18 -1.31 21609.84 24035.15 24235.51 25420.38 1.54 2.76 23.57 473.92 25380.70
FTSE Japan 510 183.41 -0.5 -4.2 -2.00.0 294.10
2.2 Consumer Services 454 692.66 0.9 0.9 0.4 978.36 1.2 0.9 International Consolidated Airlines Group S.A. 131.70 -0.62 Vodafone Group PLC 110.38 0.32
FTSE All-Share Personal Goods (5) 30023.74 -0.65 27353.74 30221.58 30499.05 26100.36 1.35 2.05 35.98 419.78 23007.12
FTSE Asia Pacific Large Cap ex Japan 957 831.15 0.6 -2.4 -5.0
-3.0 2.3 Food & Drug Retailers
1469.62 69 323.97 1.1 1.1 8.4 503.47 11.1 2.3 Intertek Group PLC 5460 - Whitbread PLC 2883 -5.00
FTSE All-Share Media (11) 9630.44 -0.19 8774.01 9648.93 9721.40 7932.10 1.78 1.05 53.53 177.13 6619.01
FTSE Asia Pacific Mid Cap ex Japan 920 1100.78 -0.1 -2.8 7.29.6 1872.10
2.7 General Retailers 157 1278.53 0.3 0.3 1.0 1732.10 1.6 0.7 Itv PLC 110.45 -0.95 Wpp PLC 1065 7.50
FTSE All-Share Retailers (22) 2764.91 0.83 2519.03 2742.02 2765.32 2256.23 1.30 4.01 19.26 35.28 3506.08
FTSE Asia Pacific Small Cap ex Japan 2041 701.16 -0.7 -1.8 7.9
10.0 2.1 Media
1162.40 84 464.61 1.9 1.9 -1.0 660.18 -0.2 0.8 Jd Sports Fashion PLC 216.60 1.35
FTSE All-Share Travel and Leisure (33) 6955.20 -0.48 6336.67 6988.77 7087.59 7901.09 0.12 -92.86 -9.17 11.71 7147.64
FTSE Asia Pacific Ex Japan 1877 657.28 0.5 -2.5 -3.8
-1.8 2.3 Travel & Leisure
1234.85 144 483.31 1.9 1.9 -3.0 698.03 -2.2 0.9
FTSE All-Share Beverages (5) 29728.72 0.07 27084.95 29707.46 29737.47 22878.69 1.91 1.52 34.43 353.51 23337.85
FTSE Emerging All Cap 3544 878.24 0.5 -2.0 -1.31.1 2.5 Telecommunication
1479.99 89 144.76 0.4 0.4 -6.0 327.98 -2.3 4.4
FTSE All-Share Food Producers (10) 6677.72 -0.02 6083.87 6679.06 6686.84 7110.64 1.76 2.97 19.08 112.37 6307.55
FTSE All-Share Tobacco (2) 27792.92 1.24 25321.30 27452.37 27619.43 28530.19 8.41 1.46 8.11 1715.05 24346.48
FTSE Emerging Large Cap 912 826.04 0.7 -2.1 -3.7
-1.4 2.4 Fixed Line Telecommuniations
1400.22 35 108.62 1.2 1.2 -6.6 279.93 -1.6 6.1 UK STOCK MARKET TRADING DATA
FTSE Emerging Mid Cap 979 1123.24 0.1 -2.2 7.3
10.3 3.1 Mobile Telecommunications
1899.95 54 174.82 0.0 0.0 -5.1 343.12 -2.3 3.4
FTSE All-Share Construction and Materials (15) 8523.66 0.03 7765.65 8520.98 8574.20 7159.87 2.20 0.56 80.81 73.42 10075.71 Dec 03 Dec 02 Dec 01 Nov 30 Nov 29 Yr Ago
FTSE Emerging Small Cap 1653 939.67 -0.5 -0.3 10.2
12.8 2.4 Utilities
1517.20 198 321.66 0.2 0.2 0.3 729.31 3.6 3.4
FTSE All-Share Aerospace and Defense (9) 4401.71 -0.36 4010.26 4417.53 4437.01 4207.48 2.16 8.40 5.51 94.62 5256.80 Order Book Turnover (m) 49.19 248.19 142.56 88.71 85.09 85.09
FTSE Emerging Europe 87 424.97 0.1 -8.4 14.7
20.4 4.8 Electricity
845.60 142 362.36 0.2 0.2 0.4 809.69 3.6 3.3
FTSE All-Share Electronic and Electrical Equipment (10)13716.63 0.15 12496.81 13696.66 13858.46 10849.16 1.26 2.13 37.33 156.05 13343.83 Order Book Bargains 853933.00 1039954.00 1263594.00 1131921.00 1478402.00 1478402.00
FTSE Latin America All Cap 250 688.75 1.9 -2.2 -16.2
-11.3 5.9 Gas Water & Multiutilities
1248.78 56 321.21 0.3 0.3 0.2 752.39 3.6 3.4
FTSE All-Share General Industrials (9) 5444.54 -0.20 4960.36 5455.42 5486.31 5118.97 2.38 1.16 36.14 127.94 6980.08 Order Book Shares Traded (m) 1159.00 1444.00 2417.00 1615.00 2389.00 2389.00
FTSE Middle East and Africa All Cap 332 776.41 -0.1 -2.6 18.9
22.3 2.7 Financials
1380.35 870 290.94 1.6 1.6 15.3 542.54 18.3 2.7
FTSE All-Share Industrial Engineering (5)19800.95 0.38 18040.06 19726.11 19911.84 15802.52 0.97 2.51 41.21 192.50 26163.43 Total Equity Turnover (£m) 4310.42 4004.39 6309.47 5282.09 6736.49 6736.49
FTSE Global wi UNITED KINGDOM All Cap In 293 340.87 -0.6 -4.2 7.5
11.1 3.3 Banks
673.00 268 222.85 1.3 1.3 20.8 459.36 24.9 3.3
FTSE All-Share Industrial Support Services (32)11876.32 -0.18 10820.16 11897.26 11917.87 9628.27 1.38 1.96 36.89 146.87 13403.52 Total Mkt Bargains 1091014.00 1298833.00 1590078.00 1411959.00 1809753.00 1809753.00
FTSE Global wi USA All Cap 1823 1123.50 1.6 -2.2 19.6
21.1 1.3 Nonlife Insurance
1602.74 72 336.65 1.6 1.6 12.5 545.24 16.0 3.0
FTSE All-Share Industrial Transportation (8) 6959.11 -0.30 6340.24 6980.38 7087.96 4050.41 1.20 3.15 26.50 74.78 7151.51 Total Shares Traded (m) 3745.00 4559.00 5778.00 4718.00 6031.00 6031.00
FTSE Europe All Cap 1474 509.83 -1.2 -5.3 8.2
11.1 2.6 Life Insurance
940.62 54 236.97 0.8 0.8 1.9 439.56 5.3 3.5
FTSE All-Share Industrial Materials (1)21654.04 2.61 749.48 21103.94 21579.03 19005.89 1.47 2.64 25.78 318.56 26795.36 † Excluding intra-market and overseas turnover. *UK only total at 6pm. ‡ UK plus intra-market turnover. (u) Unavaliable.
FTSE Eurozone All Cap 660 495.91 -1.7 -6.1 7.09.5 2.3 Financial Services
908.41 215 480.40 2.2 2.2 14.4 717.22 16.0 1.6
FTSE All-Share Industrial Metals and Mining (11) 6379.74 -2.29 5812.39 6529.14 6592.58 5809.56 7.51 2.43 5.48 326.68 9151.77 (c) Market closed.
FTSE EDHEC-Risk Efficient All-World 4101 525.49 1.2 -3.6 11.3
13.5 2.1 Technology
807.38 349 660.58 0.4 0.4 26.9 853.81 27.9 0.7
FTSE All-Share Precious Metals and Mining (6)19142.80 -0.08 17440.43 19157.66 19502.36 25070.78 4.27 1.81 12.92 1039.94 13040.33
FTSE EDHEC-Risk Efficient Developed Europe 588 394.77 -1.2 -5.6 5.78.2 2.4 Software & Computer Services
674.12 188 1057.39 0.9 0.9 25.8 1271.84 26.4 0.4
FTSE All-Share Chemicals (7) 18112.82 -0.11 16502.05 18132.91 18207.16 13925.05 1.80 2.55 21.85 294.26 17738.71
Oil & Gas 136 325.25 1.3 -5.8 26.0
31.7 4.1 Technology Hardware & Equipment
635.36 161 547.97 -0.1 -0.1 28.5 758.73 29.9 1.1
FTSE All-Share Oil. Gas and Coal (14) 5872.44 1.06 5350.21 5810.81 5738.29 4750.42 3.68 1.66 16.34 169.47 7133.52 All data provided by Morningstar unless otherwise noted. All elements listed are indicative and believed
Oil & Gas Producers 95 313.22 1.4 -4.7 29.6
35.8 4.2 Alternative Energy
626.56 15 231.67 -1.6 -1.6 -13.8 331.05 -13.3 0.5
accurate at the time of publication. No offer is made by Morningstar or the FT. The FT does not warrant nor
FTSE Sector Indices Real Estate Investment & Services 160 327.21 0.7 0.7 -8.8 619.71 -6.4 2.9
Non Financials (351) 4883.84 -0.10 4456.57 4888.54 4909.98 90.77 3.30 1.54 19.71 121.31 8535.47 Real Estate Investment Trusts 101 556.79 1.9 1.9 22.5 1259.53 25.6 2.8 guarantee that the information is reliable or complete. The FT does not accept responsibility and will not be
FTSE Global Large Cap 1799 734.14 0.6 0.6 12.7 1186.50 14.8 1.8 liable for any loss arising from the reliance on or use of the listed information.
The FTSE Global Equity Series, launched in 2003, contains the FTSE Global Small Cap Indices and broader FTSE Global All Cap Indices (large/mid/small cap) as well as the enhanced FTSE All-World index Series (large/ For all queries e-mail ft.reader.enquiries@morningstar.com
Hourly movements 8.00 9.00 10.00 11.00 12.00 13.00 14.00 15.00 16.00 High/day Low/day
FTSE 100 7193.80 7141.85 7137.83 7129.35 7152.72 7155.75 7154.78 7123.80 7116.71 7193.80 7105.54 mid cap) - please see https://research.ftserussell.com/Products/indices/Home/indexfiltergeis?indexName=GEISAC¤cy=USD&rtn=CAP&segment=global-developed–emerging. The trade names Fundamental Index®
FTSE 250 22828.94 22783.88 22790.53 22756.30 22792.51 22810.60 22834.54 22693.09 22625.01 22852.08 22598.60 and RAFI® are registered trademarks and the patented and patent-pending proprietary intellectual property of Research Affiliates, LLC (US Patent Nos. 7,620,577; 7,747,502; 7,778,905; 7,792,719; Patent Pending Publ. Data provided by Morningstar | www.morningstar.co.uk
FTSE SmallCap 7258.40 7265.15 7268.43 7259.42 7264.06 7267.01 7268.61 7257.86 7237.49 7275.51 7231.10 Nos. US-2006-0149645-A1, US-2007-0055598-A1, US-2008-0288416-A1, US-2010- 0063942-A1, WO 2005/076812, WO 2007/078399 A2, WO 2008/118372, EPN 1733352, and HK1099110). ”EDHEC™” is a trade mark
FTSE All-Share 4097.87 4073.02 4071.46 4066.40 4078.20 4080.18 4080.50 4061.92 4056.25 4097.87 4051.15 of EDHEC Business School As of January 2nd 2006, FTSE is basing its sector indices on the Industrial Classification Benchmark - please see www.ftse.com/icb. For constituent changes and other information about FTSE,
please see www.ftse.com. © FTSE International Limited. 2013. All Rights reserved. ”FTSE®” is a trade mark of the London Stock Exchange Group companies and is used by FTSE International Limited under licence.
Time of FTSE 100 Day's high:08:03:00 Day's Low16:20:15 FTSE 100 2010/11 High: 7384.18(11/11/2021) Low: 6407.46(29/01/2021)
Time of FTSE All-Share Day's high:08:03:00 Day's Low16:18:00 FTSE 100 2010/11 High: 4212.39(11/11/2021) Low: 3641.93(29/01/2021)
Further information is available on http://www.ftse.com © FTSE International Limited. 2013. All Rights reserved. ”FTSE®” is a trade mark of the
London Stock Exchange Group companies and is used by FTSE International Limited under licence. † Sector P/E ratios greater than 80 are not shown.
For changes to FTSE Fledgling Index constituents please refer to www.ftse.com/indexchanges. ‡ Values are negative.
Figures in £m. Earnings shown basic. Figures in light text are for corresponding period year earlier. §Placing price. *Intoduction. ‡When issued. Annual report/prospectus available at www.ft.com/ir
For more information on dividend payments visit www.ft.com/marketsdata For a full explanation of all the other symbols please refer to London Share Service notes.
16 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
MARKET DATA
FT 500: TOP 20 FT 500: BOTTOM 20 BONDS: HIGH YIELD & EMERGING MARKET BONDS: GLOBAL INVESTMENT GRADE
Close Prev Day Week Month Close Prev Day Week Month Day's Mth's Spread Day's Mth's Spread
price price change change % change change % change % price price change change % change change % change % Red Ratings Bid Bid chge chge vs Red Ratings Bid Bid chge chge vs
Pwr Cons Corp 7.61 6.99 0.62 8.87 0.93 13.9 -2.56 SandsCh 17.50 17.28 0.22 1.27 -3.75 -17.6 -1.24 Dec 03 date Coupon S* M* F* price yield yield yield US Dec 03 date Coupon S* M* F* price yield yield yield US
VertexPharm 205.71 204.45 1.26 0.62 22.12 12.0 9.01 Softbank 5559.00 5599.00 -40.00 -0.71 -1124.00 -16.8 -11.89 High Yield US$ US$
Hew-Pack 38.08 37.64 0.44 1.17 3.50 10.1 21.74 SHOP 1755.77 1853.90 -98.13 -5.29 -248.18 -12.4 -5.20 HCA Inc. 04/24 8.36 BB- Ba2 BB 113.75 4.24 0.00 0.12 - FleetBoston Financial Corp. 01/28 6.88 BBB+ Baa1 A- 129.00 2.54 -0.01 -0.05 -
BT 168.60 169.00 -0.40 -0.24 14.60 9.5 18.61 Nissan Mt 564.50 542.50 22.00 4.06 -74.80 -11.7 -5.28 High Yield Euro The Goldman Sachs Group, Inc. 02/28 5.00 BBB+ A3 A 117.21 2.47 0.00 0.32 -
Hunng Pwr 3.77 3.52 0.25 7.10 0.31 9.0 -5.01 Fuji Hvy Ind 2076.00 2078.50 -2.50 -0.12 -268.00 -11.4 -8.63 Aldesa Financial Services S.A. 04/21 7.25 - - B 71.10 28.23 0.00 0.64 25.98 NationsBank Corp. 03/28 6.80 BBB+ Baa1 A- 127.69 2.72 -0.01 0.06 -
ChShenEgy 18.40 17.12 1.28 7.48 1.50 8.9 11.41 Salesforce 252.20 261.20 -9.00 -3.45 -32.01 -11.3 -16.71 GTE LLC 04/28 6.94 BBB+ Baa2 A- 128.27 2.80 0.00 -0.11 -
Novatek 1761.23 1708.49 52.74 3.09 125.22 7.7 -2.86 Netflix 598.28 616.47 -18.19 -2.95 -67.36 -10.1 -13.00 Emerging US$ United Utilities PLC 08/28 6.88 BBB Baa1 A- 130.43 2.62 -0.07 -0.22 -
BP 340.85 336.60 4.25 1.26 23.20 7.3 1.84 FastRetail 66650.00 67140.00 -490.00 -0.73 -7420.00 -10.0 -15.63 Peru 03/19 7.13 BBB+ A3 BBB+ 104.40 2.60 - - 0.34 Barclays Bank plc 01/29 4.50 A A1 A+ 96.46 5.02 0.00 0.02 -
MTN Grp 166.80 166.00 0.80 0.48 9.77 6.2 21.85 Facebook 300.30 310.39 -10.10 -3.25 -32.83 -9.9 -9.39 Colombia 01/26 4.50 - Baa2 BBB- 109.50 2.33 0.16 0.52 1.28
Brazil 04/26 6.00 - Ba2 BB- 115.15 2.78 -0.01 0.65 1.73 Euro
Firstrand 57.18 57.28 -0.10 -0.17 3.33 6.2 -3.77 LasVegasSd 34.39 35.59 -1.20 -3.37 -3.48 -9.2 -16.14 Electricite de France (EDF) 04/30 4.63 A- A3 A- 137.45 0.82 -0.01 0.10 -
Shrwin-Will 343.28 339.67 3.61 1.06 19.98 6.2 9.36 ShenwanHong 0.07 0.07 0.00 3.08 -0.01 -8.2 -23.86 Poland 04/26 3.25 - A2 A- 111.22 0.98 0.03 0.16 -0.07
Mexico 05/26 11.50 - Baa1 BBB- 149.00 1.61 0.00 -0.12 0.56 The Goldman Sachs Group, Inc. 02/31 3.00 BBB+ A3 A 121.70 0.93 0.00 0.02 -
RylDShlA 1651.40 1633.20 18.20 1.11 95.20 6.1 1.19 SimonProp 148.00 151.86 -3.87 -2.55 -12.49 -7.8 -10.91 The Goldman Sachs Group, Inc. 02/31 3.00 BBB+ A3 A 124.42 0.68 0.00 -0.11 -
Unicred 11.13 11.01 0.12 1.09 0.64 6.1 -1.31 eBay 66.90 67.48 -0.58 -0.86 -5.57 -7.7 -11.28 Turkey 03/27 6.00 - Ba2 BB+ 101.26 5.82 0.00 0.17 3.07
Turkey 03/27 6.00 - B2 BB- 102.88 5.43 0.14 0.83 4.38 Finland 04/31 0.75 AA+ Aa1 AA+ 111.08 -0.27 0.00 -0.05 -0.87
Aviva 392.80 391.30 1.50 0.38 21.90 5.9 -2.03 Adobe 611.28 671.88 -60.60 -9.02 -50.82 -7.7 -6.56
Peru 08/27 4.13 BBB+ A3 BBB+ 103.50 3.66 0.01 -0.02 0.80 Yen
Citic Secs 19.64 19.58 0.06 0.31 1.06 5.7 1.98 Merck 73.10 73.89 -0.79 -1.07 -6.06 -7.7 -17.52
Russia 06/28 12.75 - Baa3 BBB 168.12 2.48 0.07 0.05 - Mexico 06/26 1.09 - Baa1 BBB- 98.73 1.34 -0.02 -0.14 0.27
AmerMvl 19.67 19.47 0.20 1.03 1.06 5.7 6.55 ViacomCBS 30.15 29.56 0.59 2.00 -2.46 -7.5 -19.59
Tata Cons 3640.45 3642.90 -2.45 -0.07 194.55 5.6 4.48 AstellasPh 1782.00 1774.00 8.00 0.45 -142.50 -7.4 -7.61 Brazil 02/47 5.63 - Ba2 BB- 101.48 5.52 0.08 0.80 - £ Sterling
Schneider 159.88 161.14 -1.26 -0.78 8.30 5.5 6.44 Panasonic 1254.50 1239.00 15.50 1.25 -99.50 -7.3 -8.30 Emerging Euro innogy Fin B.V. 06/30 6.25 BBB Baa2 A- 137.45 2.19 -0.03 0.02 -
Cielo 2.19 2.14 0.05 2.34 0.11 5.3 -5.60 Illumina 343.24 357.48 -14.24 -3.98 -26.55 -7.2 -18.20 Brazil 04/21 2.88 BB- Ba2 BB- 103.09 0.05 0.01 -0.09 -1.19 innogy Fin B.V. 06/30 6.25 BBB Baa2 A- 128.68 3.20 0.00 -0.01 0.40
Equinor 231.00 230.20 0.80 0.35 11.10 5.0 5.34 AIA 81.30 82.85 -1.55 -1.87 -6.20 -7.1 -8.05 Mexico 04/23 2.75 BBB+ A3 BBB+ 107.76 0.76 0.00 -0.07 -1.56 Interactive Data Pricing and Reference Data LLC, an ICE Data Services company. US $ denominated bonds NY close; all other London
Mexico 04/23 2.75 - Baa1 BBB- 106.48 -0.26 - - -0.36 close. *S - Standard & Poor’s, M - Moody’s, F - Fitch.
Based on the FT Global 500 companies in local currency Based on the FT Global 500 companies in local currency
Bulgaria 03/28 3.00 BBB- Baa2 BBB 117.04 1.00 0.02 -0.15 -1.42
Interactive Data Pricing and Reference Data LLC, an ICE Data Services company. US $ denominated bonds NY close; all
other London close. *S - Standard & Poor’s, M - Moody’s, F - Fitch.
INTEREST RATES: OFFICIAL BOND INDICES VOLATILITY INDICES GILTS: UK CASH MARKET
Dec 03 Rate Current Since Last Mnth Ago Year Ago Day's Month's Year Return Return Dec 03 Day Chng Prev 52 wk high 52 wk low Red Change in Yield 52 Week Amnt
US Fed Funds 0.00-0.25 15-03-2020 1.00-1.25 1.50-1.75 1.25-1.50 Index change change change 1 month 1 year VIX 31.50 3.55 27.95 37.51 14.10 Dec 03 Price £ Yield Day Week Month Year High Low £m
US Prime 4.75 30-10-2019 5.25 5.25 4.25 Markit IBoxx VXD 28.75 0.94 27.81 45.68 2.67 - - - - - - - - -
US Discount 2.65 30-09-2019 2.75 2.75 1.75 ABF Pan-Asia unhedged 218.03 0.45 0.05 -4.11 -1.54 0.07 VXN 34.30 4.52 29.78 40.53 18.01 Tr 1.75pc '22 101.18 0.18 -10.00 12.50 -25.00 -1000.00 104.44 101.06 29.68
Euro Repo 0.00 16-03-2016 0.00 0.00 0.00 Corporates( £) 393.84 0.27 -0.15 -3.67 -2.48 -0.38 VDAX 28.09 1.05 27.04 93.30 - Tr 0.75pc '23 100.64 0.36 -7.69 9.09 2.86 800.00 101.08 99.96 33.73
UK Repo 0.10 19-03-2020 0.25 0.75 0.25 Corporates($) 337.72 0.30 -0.12 -1.12 -0.12 -1.12 † CBOE. VIX: S&P 500 index Options Volatility, VXD: DJIA Index Options Volatility, VXN: NASDAQ Index Options Volatility. Tr 0.125pc '24 99.23 0.49 -5.77 11.36 2.08 716.67 100.37 98.67 34.12
Japan O'night Call 0.00-0.10 01-02-2016 0.00 0.00--0.10 0.00--0.10 Corporates(€) 242.53 0.22 -0.27 -0.67 -0.79 0.52 ‡ Deutsche Borse. VDAX: DAX Index Options Volatility. Tr 2pc '25 105.55 0.50 -7.41 4.17 -3.85 2400.00 120.52 99.56 38.33
Switzerland Libor Target -1.25-0.25 15-01-2015 -0.75--0.25 -1.25--0.25 -1.25--0.25 Eurozone Sov(€) 256.19 0.37 0.17 -2.77 -0.98 -2.45 Tr 0.125pc '26 98.40 0.52 -5.45 4.00 -7.14 372.73 100.31 97.21 33.89
Gilts( £) 353.31 0.25 0.75 -6.83 -3.27 -6.36 BONDS: BENCHMARK GOVERNMENT Tr 1.25pc '27 103.85 0.55 -5.17 0.00 -15.38 243.75 107.14 102.14 39.34
INTEREST RATES: MARKET Global Inflation-Lkd 321.80 0.95 1.88 2.32 -2.02 6.61 Red Bid Bid Day chg Wk chg Month Year Tr 0.875pc '29 101.72 0.65 -4.41 -2.99 -17.72 109.68 104.87 98.61 41.87
Over Change One Three Six One Markit iBoxx £ Non-Gilts 381.09 0.24 -0.08 -3.50 -2.29 -0.88 Date Coupon Price Yield yield yield chg yld chg yld Tr 4.25pc '32 134.86 0.79 -3.66 -4.82 -18.56 68.09 141.66 130.03 38.71
Dec 03 (Libor: Dec 02) night Day Week Month month month month year Overall ($) 278.94 0.26 -0.08 -2.01 -0.08 -2.01 Australia 04/24 2.75 104.81 0.70 0.03 0.01 0.07 0.58 Tr 4.25pc '36 145.01 0.88 -4.35 -6.38 -19.27 31.34 151.25 137.65 30.41
US$ Libor 0.07763 0.001 0.004 0.001 0.10350 0.18013 0.26775 0.45588 Overall( £) 357.04 0.25 0.52 -5.93 -3.01 -4.89 05/32 1.25 95.59 1.71 -0.05 -0.19 -0.01 0.61 Tr 4.5pc '42 168.47 0.91 -3.19 -7.14 -21.55 7.06 172.18 154.49 27.21
Euro Libor -0.58600 -0.004 0.002 -0.012 -0.60471 -0.60000 -0.55400 -0.49829 Overall(€) 248.14 0.33 0.02 -2.29 -0.94 -1.81 Austria 05/34 2.40 129.55 0.02 -0.04 -0.13 -0.03 0.22 Tr 3.75pc '52 177.56 0.86 -3.37 -6.52 -23.89 -3.37 177.56 155.15 24.10
£ Libor 0.03838 -0.001 0.001 -0.003 0.06550 0.09738 0.29675 0.66300 Treasuries ($) 255.43 0.24 -0.01 -2.64 -0.01 -2.64 02/47 1.50 128.81 0.31 -0.03 -0.17 -0.03 0.22 Tr 4pc '60 208.03 0.74 -2.63 -7.50 -29.52 -13.95 208.15 175.55 24.12
Swiss Fr Libor 0.002 -0.81480 -0.78400 -0.73120 -0.58500 FTSE Belgium 10/23 0.20 101.73 -0.71 0.03 0.05 0.03 -0.04 Gilts benchmarks & non-rump undated stocks. Closing mid-price in pounds per £100 nominal of stock.
Yen Libor 0.012 -0.06567 -0.07367 -0.05017 0.04700 Sterling Corporate (£) - - - - - - Canada - - - - - - -
Euro Euribor
Sterling CDs
0.005
0.000
-0.56800
0.50000
-0.56500
0.63000
-0.54100
0.78500
-0.49800 Euro Corporate (€) 104.47 -0.05 - - 0.54 -1.73 03/24 2.25 102.70 1.03 -0.03 -0.12 -0.03 0.70 GILTS: UK FTSE ACTUARIES INDICES
Euro Emerging Mkts (€) 777.43 -5.06 - - -1.27 22.30 Denmark - - - - - - -
US$ CDs 0.000 0.17000 0.17000 0.29000 Eurozone Govt Bond 110.04 -0.19 - - -0.34 -0.64 11/23 1.50 104.15 -0.61 -0.03 0.01 0.00 0.00 Price Indices Day's Total Return Return
Euro CDs 0.000 -0.55000 -0.59000 -0.53000 Fixed Coupon Dec 03 chg % Return 1 month 1 year Yield
CREDIT INDICES Day's Week's Month's Series Series Finland 04/23 1.50 103.11 -0.78 -0.04 0.04 0.00 -0.07
04/31 0.75 108.25 -0.13 0.02 -0.10 0.02 0.20 1 Up to 5 Years 86.87 0.08 2463.15 0.60 -0.93 0.47
Short 7 Days One Three Six One Index change change change high low 2 5 - 10 Years 178.48 0.20 3720.01 2.13 -2.15 0.65
Dec 03 term notice month month month year Markit iTraxx France 05/23 1.75 103.65 -0.70 0.03 0.06 0.03 -0.03
3 10 - 15 Years 213.14 0.39 4762.20 3.29 -2.26 0.86
Euro -0.65 -0.35 -0.67 -0.37 -0.70 -0.40 -0.74 -0.44 -0.68 -0.38 -0.65 -0.35 Crossover 5Y 287.40 6.83 27.83 25.76 291.37 239.25 05/27 1.00 107.91 -0.43 -0.05 -0.07 0.00 0.10
4 5 - 15 Years 186.45 0.27 3981.22 2.53 -2.01 0.75
Sterling 0.45 0.55 0.58 0.68 0.71 0.86 0.90 1.05 Europe 5Y 57.66 1.55 6.20 7.02 58.00 47.48 Germany - - - - - - -
5 Over 15 Years 387.78 0.59 6507.10 7.33 1.61 0.83
US Dollar 0.11 0.31 0.04 0.24 0.07 0.27 0.07 0.27 0.19 0.39 0.26 0.46 Japan 5Y 50.08 1.58 3.67 2.15 52.84 46.14 08/23 2.00 104.77 -0.78 0.04 0.05 0.04 -0.03
7 All stocks 186.71 0.36 4082.48 4.05 -0.22 0.79
Japanese Yen -0.10 0.00 -0.10 0.00 -0.10 0.10 -0.10 0.10 -0.15 0.15 -0.15 0.15 Senior Financials 5Y 66.91 1.27 6.71 8.78 67.80 54.31 08/27 0.50 106.38 -0.60 -0.04 -0.07 0.00 0.08
Libor rates come from ICE (see www.theice.com) and are fixed at 11am UK time. Other data sources: US $, Euro & CDs: 08/50 0.00 103.01 -0.10 -0.03 -0.16 -0.03 0.00 Day's Month Year's Total Return Return
Markit CDX Greece 02/27 4.30 118.13 0.75 -0.01 -0.12 -0.01 0.04
Tullett Prebon; SDR, US Discount: IMF; EONIA: ECB; Swiss Libor: SNB; EURONIA, RONIA & SONIA: WMBA. Index Linked Dec 03 chg % chg % chg % Return 1 month 1 year
Emerging Markets 5Y 207.63 -5.44 6.00 28.11 221.97 168.20
Ireland - - - - - - - 1 Up to 5 Years 317.93 0.12 1.59 4.47 2657.75 1.84 5.71
Nth Amer High Yld 5Y 324.94 -7.52 18.85 31.97 332.46 287.43
- - - - - - - 2 Over 5 years 941.57 0.33 6.53 13.74 7144.55 6.61 14.14
Nth Amer Inv Grade 5Y 57.43 -1.11 4.36 7.11 58.54 49.43
03/24 3.40 109.27 -0.61 0.06 0.04 0.06 -0.02 3 5-15 years 553.96 0.16 4.39 7.35 4446.49 4.53 8.18
Websites: markit.com, ftse.com. All indices shown are unhedged. Currencies are shown in brackets after the index names.
Italy 05/24 1.85 104.94 -0.16 0.07 0.05 0.07 0.03 4 Over 15 years 1263.40 0.40 7.29 15.95 9320.46 7.35 16.19
08/27 2.05 109.46 0.36 -0.05 -0.04 0.01 0.10 5 All stocks 829.31 0.31 6.02 12.64 6414.04 6.12 13.13
05/31 6.00 147.13 0.79 -0.07 -0.11 -0.02 0.14
COMMODITIES www.ft.com/commodities BONDS: INDEX-LINKED 03/48 3.45 136.57 1.71 -0.04 -0.12 -0.01 0.25 Yield Indices Dec 03 Dec 02 Yr ago Dec 03 Dec 02 Yr ago
Japan 04/23 0.05 99.97 0.08 0.02 0.01 0.02 0.01 5 Yrs 0.52 0.54 0.01 20 Yrs 0.96 0.99 0.86
Energy Price* Change Agricultural & Cattle Futures Price* Change Price Yield Month Value No of
12/27 0.10 101.11 -0.08 0.00 -0.02 0.00 0.02 10 Yrs 0.77 0.81 0.39 45 Yrs 0.63 0.64 0.82
Crude Oil† Dec 68.32 1.17 Corn♦ Dec 581.00 3.75 Nov 16 Nov 16 Prev return stock Market stocks
12/34 1.20 112.77 0.21 0.00 -0.02 0.01 0.02 15 Yrs 0.92 0.96 0.70
Brent Crude Oil‡ 70.38 -0.05 Wheat♦ Dec 807.00 0.00 Can 4.25%' 26 126.56 -0.896 -0.841 1.15 5.25 - -
12/49 0.40 93.34 0.66 0.00 -0.01 0.00 0.03
RBOB Gasoline† Dec 2.00 0.02 Soybeans♦ Jan 1255.50 10.75 Fr 2.10%' 23 107.44 -2.181 -2.082 0.34 18.05 - -
Netherlands 07/23 1.75 104.11 -0.77 0.04 0.06 0.04 -0.07 inflation 0% inflation 5%
Heating Oil† - - Soybeans Meal♦ Dec 358.10 0.00 Swe 1.00%' 25 121.78 -1.952 -1.942 0.76 35.63 - -
07/27 0.75 107.02 -0.48 0.03 -0.05 0.03 0.10 Real yield Dec 03 Dur yrs Previous Yr ago Dec 03 Dur yrs Previous Yr ago
Natural Gas† Dec 4.21 0.10 Cocoa (ICE Liffe)X Dec 1597.00 -6.00 UK 1.875%' 22 107.52 -5.291 -5.369 0.06 15.74 - -
Ethanol♦ - - Cocoa (ICE US)♥ Dec 2320.00 0.00 New Zealand 04/27 4.50 111.55 2.21 -0.01 -0.10 -0.01 1.73 Up to 5 yrs -3.87 2.41 -3.80 -2.80 -4.26 2.42 -4.21 -3.20
UK 2.50%' 24 366.15 -3.718 -3.882 0.56 6.82 - -
Uranium† - - Coffee(Robusta)X Jan 2386.00 47.00 05/31 1.50 92.42 2.40 -0.03 -0.11 -0.03 1.54 Over 5 yrs -2.64 24.22 -2.63 -2.25 -2.66 24.27 -2.65 -2.27
UK 2.00%' 35 312.87 -2.869 -2.961 1.74 9.08 - -
Carbon Emissions‡ - - Coffee (Arabica)♥ Dec 236.65 0.00 05/31 1.50 92.42 2.40 -0.03 -0.11 -0.03 1.54 5-15 yrs -3.22 9.75 -3.20 -2.77 -3.30 9.76 -3.29 -2.87
US 0.625%' 23 105.94 -3.451 -2.873 0.92 47.03 - -
White SugarX 487.00 2.00 Norway - - - - - - - Over 15 yrs -2.57 29.28 -2.56 -2.19 -2.58 29.30 -2.57 -2.20
Diesel† - - US 3.625%' 28 135.22 -1.576 -1.508 1.25 16.78 - -
Sugar 11♥ 18.79 0.14 - - - - - - - All stocks -2.65 22.15 -2.64 -2.26 -2.68 22.21 -2.66 -2.28
Base Metals (♠ LME 3 Months) Representative stocks from each major market Source: Merill Lynch Global Bond Indices † Local currencies. ‡ Total market
Aluminium 2614.00 3.00 Cotton♥ Mar 105.22 1.58 Portugal 10/23 4.95 110.87 -0.73 0.04 0.02 0.04 -0.16 See FTSE website for more details www.ftse.com/products/indices/gilts
value. In line with market convention, for UK Gilts inflation factor is applied to price, for other markets it is applied to par
Aluminium Alloy 2500.00 80.00 Orange Juice♥ Jan 121.75 0.15 04/27 4.13 123.83 -0.29 -0.05 -0.07 0.00 -0.01 ©2018 Tradeweb Markets LLC. All rights reserved. The Tradeweb FTSE
amount.
Copper 9403.50 -66.00 Palm Oil♣ - - Spain - - - - - - - Gilt Closing Prices information contained herein is proprietary to
Lead 2198.00 -46.00 Live Cattle♣ Dec 137.58 1.43 BONDS: TEN YEAR GOVT SPREADS 10/23 4.40 109.63 -0.62 -0.02 0.02 0.00 -0.10 Tradeweb; may not be copied or re-distributed; is not warranted to be
Nickel 20015.00 110.00 Feeder Cattle♣ May 134.88 - Sweden 11/23 1.50 103.47 -0.28 -0.02 -0.03 0.00 0.06 accurate, complete or timely; and does not constitute investment advice.
Tin 39300.00 325.00 Lean Hogs♣ Dec 74.73 1.13 Spread Spread Spread Spread 12/27 0.13 124.12 -2.07 0.02 -0.27 0.02 -0.73 Tradeweb is not responsible for any loss or damage that might result from the use of this information.
Zinc 3164.00 8.00 Bid vs vs Bid vs vs 06/30 0.13 123.73 -2.05 0.01 -0.31 0.01 -0.63
% Chg % Chg Yield Bund T-Bonds Yield Bund T-Bonds Switzerland - - - - - - - All data provided by Morningstar unless otherwise noted. All elements listed are indicative and believed accurate
Precious Metals (PM London Fix)
Gold 1789.25 -15.15 Dec 02 Month Year 06/24 1.25 104.84 -0.65 0.01 -0.02 0.01 0.10 at the time of publication. No offer is made by Morningstar, its suppliers, or the FT. Neither the FT, nor
Australia 1.71 - - Netherlands -0.48 - -
Silver (US cents) 2286.00 -0.50 S&P GSCI Spt 528.78 -8.92 36.79 United Kingdom - - - - - - - Morningstar’s suppliers, warrant or guarantee that the information is reliable or complete. Neither the FT nor
Austria 0.02 - - New Zealand 2.40 - -
Platinum 947.00 3.00 DJ UBS Spot 96.17 -6.70 29.91 Canada - - - Norway - - - 07/23 0.75 100.57 0.40 -0.03 -0.08 0.01 0.42 Morningstar’s suppliers accept responsibility and will not be liable for any loss arising from the reliance on the
Palladium 1751.00 -16.00 TR/CC CRB TR 233.37 -8.21 37.78 Denmark - - - Portugal -0.29 - - 07/27 1.25 103.52 0.61 0.03 -0.11 0.03 0.45 use of the listed information. For all queries e-mail ft.reader.enquiries@morningstar.com
Bulk Commodities LEBA EUA Carbon 58.91 -1.98 129.94 Finland -0.13 - - Spain - - - 07/47 1.50 112.44 0.95 -0.02 -0.16 0.01 0.04
Iron Ore 128.50 -8.45 LEBA UK Power 1048.00 -37.43 -39.60 Germany - - - Sweden -2.05 - - United States 03/23 0.50 100.19 0.35 0.04 -0.04 0.04 0.15 Data provided by Morningstar | www.morningstar.co.uk
GlobalCOAL RB Index 232.50 6.00 Ireland - - - Switzerland - - - 03/27 0.63 97.16 1.18 0.01 -0.19 0.01 0.57
Baltic Dry Index 3171.00 56.00 Italy 0.79 - - United Kingdom - - - 04/32 3.38 147.76 - - - - -
Sources: † NYMEX, ‡ ECX/ICE, ♦ CBOT, X ICE Liffe, ♥ ICE Futures, ♣ CME, ♠ LME/London Metal Exchange.* Latest prices, $ Japan 0.21 - - United States - - - 02/50 0.25 122.07 - - - - -
unless otherwise stated. Interactive Data Pricing and Reference Data LLC, an ICE Data Services company. Interactive Data Pricing and Reference Data LLC, an ICE Data Services company.
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 17
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18 ★ 4 December/5 December 2021
Twitter: @FTLex
Didi’s delisting
revi
e ives US-China
Shell:
decoupling risks
tanking Cambo Preloved fashion: the devil wears vintage
Cost of Hermès 35cm Tog
T o Birkin Assorted prices of Hermès Birkin 25
handbag ($’000) on Vestiaire website
Royal a Dutch Shell cannott seem to catch
a break. In its latest retreat, the Anglo-
Dutch oil and gas major is pulling the 12 £13kk
Johnn Plender
plug on its contentious Cambo proje o ct £29k
in Britain’s North Sea. That leavea s the 10 £14kk
£57k Thee Longg View
T
proposed scheme, in which Shell was to £20k
have
a had a 30 perr centt interest, wholly 8
in the hands of private equity-backed he risk that China could cent had no plans to move any produc- China’s model has an extraordinary
Siccar Pointt Energy. 6 £214k £81k decouple from US capital tion out of China in the next three years. degree off integration into the global sys-
The duo applied for approval in June. markets can no longer be So much forr deglobalisation. tem, far greater than the Soviet Union
The UK government, under pressure 4 ignored. That is an impor- As for portfolio flows, US holdings of had. To the extent that there is a war in
from activists, has yet to clear it. That £18k tantt lesson from this week’s Chinese equity and debt securities the capital markets, it is largely con-
is irksome, but hardlyy cause for 2 decision by the Chinese ride-hailing surged ffrom $765bn in 2017 to $1.2tn in fined to the primaryy market in equities.
£13kk £71k
inve
n stors to break into a sweat. £24k group Didi Chuxing, under pressure 2020, helped by the relaxation of rules There is nonetheless a strong likeli-
0
Cambo is small-scale. The developers 1984 2010 2011 2016 2019 2020
from China’s cyber securityy watchdog, on foreign access. hood thatt political pressure will build in
expect it to produce up to 170m barrels to delist from the New York Stock This trend has been accelerated by the US for curbs on investmentt in China.
of oil equivalent over 25 years. Divide Sources: savespendsplurge.com; vestiairecollective.com Exchange and go public in Hong Kong. indexx providers including more Chinese One clearr indication is the latest annual
that pro rata between the two parties The stakes here were not small. Didi’s securities in global and regional indices, report of the US-China Economic and
and Shell’s share equates to roughlyy a Lookingg too cool for school while seller that specialises in resale, has $4.4bn initial publicc offeringg in June was causing passive funds automatically to Security Review Commission, an inde-
fortnight’s production — but spread savingg the planet is fashion nirvana. just shy of 100 Birkin 25 bags on its the biggest listing byy a Chinese company increase theirr exposure to China. pendent US aagency. y
over a quarter of a century. The field
f Enter the flourishingg world of second- site. Vendors in the US, Japan, UK and in New York k since Alibaba in 2014. In effect, the Chinese government It points out that nominal financial
may ultimately yield more and there is hand handbags, which turns status Hong Kong are all lookingg to offload The move came after reports that bond market offers the ultimate happy “opening” in China is in reality a care-
also an expected 53.5bn cubic feet of symbols into badges off sustainability.
t theirr bags fro
f m around £13,000 to China is planning to ban companies hunting ground for searchers after fullyy managed process, designed to rein-
gas included. But its removal hardly Prada is the latestt to see a money- four times that.
t from going public on foreign
f stock mar- yield. Over the past year, 10-year bonds force state control over capital markets
sparks immediate financial concerns. makingg opportunity in this market. Auctions command still higher kets via variable interest entities, the and channel foreign funding towards
Seen another way, a however, thet Justt don’tt expect to bag a bargain. prices, particularly when the
t vendor flimsy legal structures based in tax fulfilling national objectives.
scuppered proje o ctt illustrates Shell’s Hermès’ famed
f Birkin bag, named for is famous: a Birkin-owned Birkin bag have
a ns that havea underpinned the t flota-
f
The desire to have
v Chinese The commissioners further worried
difficulties managingg the energy English actress Jane Birkin, illustrates went under the gavea l for a whisker tions in the
t US of such companies as Ali- companies list closer to that US capital could be helping advance
transition. Cambo would have a added to the vagaries off bag economics. under £119,0
9 00 this year. baba, JD.com and Pinduodo. China’sa military modernisation, facili-
Shell’s carbon baggage, justified byy it Today a brand new w Birkin 35 in China’s
a Gen Z is combining a Beijing’s clear desire to have
a Chinese
home could inflict losses tating human rights abuses or subsidis-
beingg nearer to home and generating Togo leatherr costs £8,890. Butt buying nostalgia for goods enjoyed by companies list closer to home could on western inve
n stors ingg unfair trade practices byy US groups.
cash for greener endeavo a urs. Thatt did one of its predecessors second-hand previous generations with a inflict losses on western investors as Does this means that China is an
nott carry much weight with eco- — or, as itt has been rebranded, thoroughly modern eye attuned to more Chinese companies delist or go have
a offered an income of around 3.5 investment dead end? I would argue
activists, whose complaints probably “preloved” — could costt multiples of the investment potential of statement private. per cent, compared with close to 1.5 per that variable interest entities are a
found more receptive ears with that.
a Depreciation, assuming no pieces. Much portfolio damage has already cent on 10-year US Treasuries. With no-no because they do not offer inves-
watchdogs as the UK hosted COP26. scratches or blemishes, barely As ever, charityy shops continue to been incurred as a result of Beijing’s Chinese inflation running at about 1.5 tors real ownership rights and carry no
Its efforts in otherr arenas have
a also
a features at the top end of this market. parlay used clothes and accessories assault on Big Tech and high-profile per cent, the real yield is positive, in votingg power. For environmental, social
hitt setbacks. The Jackdaw gasfield These bags are available aat a range into cash for worthyy causes. Just don’t entrepreneurs, while the plight of over- contrast to US Treasuries which live and governance funds, China is also
development, also in the North Sea, of shops, online platforms and expect to find a Birkin bag lurking stretched property developers such as under the shadow of an inflation rate in challengingg territory given that it is the
was iced in October when the t UK’s auction houses. Vestiaire, an online round tthe corner. Evergrande has added to the pain. Octoberr of 6.2 per cent. biggest polluter. There are undeniable
Offshore Petroleum Regulatorr for Att the same time, the US Securities That said, the de facto renminbi peg to human rights concerns. And corporate
Environment and Decommissioning and Exchange Commission is set to the dollarr and euro means that Chinese governance falls notoriously short of
refused to sanction it without changes. structures, used byy groups such as Express spun out GBT, as itt is called, force Chinese companies to delist if they sovereign bonds offer little or no diversi- developed world standards. But for the
The greenerr Scottish Acorn carbon Alibaba, Pinduoduo and JD.com. into a joint venture in 2014, retainingg a fail to disclose more information about fication to the official reserve managers rest it is simply a question of whether
capture and storage project, a Shell The US Securities and Exchange 50 per cent stake. audits and government control over who are the main foreign buyers, since risk is being realisticallyy priced.
partnership with Storegga, has also Commission has, for its part, finalised a The deal values GBT at about $5bn, theirr operations. dollars and euros are the mainstays a of Beijing’s common prosperityy agenda,
failed to secure fast-track approval. rule allowing it to delistt foreign stocks includingg debt. Att about 9.5 times 2023 The curious thing is that capital has, their portfolios. And there must be a its penchant forr random political initia-
The decision to restrict the ready-to-go that do nott meet its audit adjusted ebitda, thatt is on par with pre- until now, been blind to political reality.
y question about the durability of the peg. tives and its interventionist behaviour
projectt was an unexpected knock-back. requirements. US-quoted Chinese pandemicc levels. Itt is also abo
a utt the China continues to attract record Given the deep-seated problems in the in markets obviously call forr a discount
Both projects may yet see the light of groups have struggled to complyy with same forward ratio as Expedia — which amounts of foreign direct inven stment. A housing market, China is heavily relative to the US, Europe and Japan.
day,
a albeit
a t in amended form f for American demands forr information has more exposure to the slightly recent survey by the American Cham- dependent on exports to propel growth,w Many investors take the view that the
Jackdaw. w But Shell’s stumbles show the without violating Chinese law. a healthier leisure trave
a l sector. ber of Commerce found that in 2021, which could make it temptingg to aim for
f discountt is adequate. The geopolitical
pitfalls on the road to decarbonisation. Chinese retail inve
n storr appetite for That is nott too shabbyy considering 59.5 per cent off US multinationals a more competitive exchange rate. risks are becoming more daunting, but a
homecomings has withered as business trips fell nearlyy two-thirds last reported increased investment, up 30.9 Whatt emerges from all this is that the capital exodus is not yet on thet cards.
politicians turned up the heat. a Music year, according to GlobalData. GBT’s per cent compared with 2020. Of manu- rivalry between the US and China does
streaming platform Cloud Village fell f transaction value is only a fifth off 2019 facturers producing in China, 72 per not justifyy analogies with the cold war.r john.plender@ft
@ .com
Didi: on its Hong Kong debut on Thursday
even afterr halving the offering.
levels. Pro forma revenue, which
factors in recent acquisitions, is
east, west, home’s safest Didi shares soared then
t slumped in projected to fall 20 per cent this year
pre-market trading. Pundits theorised following a 64 per cent drop last year.
Didi will end its American journey about everythingg from buybacks to a GBT and the
t Apollo Spac believe
soon. The ride-hailingg group will business boostt for partty-pleasing Didi. road warriors will eventually return.
switch its listingg from New York to The more politicised shares become, They expect corporate trave a l spending
Hong Kong. Where tthis $38bn tech the harder theyy are to value on to recover to about 70 per centt of pre-
business goes, others will follow. fundamentals. Welcome to the pandemicc levels byy 2023. The Global
Beijingg is deadly serious in its push for polarised, rumour-driven world of Business Trave
a l Association is not
US-quoted Chinese groups to bring international inve
n sting forecastingg a full recoveryy until 2024 at
theirr listings home. the earliest — and tthat was before
Bolsteringg the status of Chinese Omicron.
exchanges is nott Beijing’s only aim. It GBT’s biggestt advantage will be its
fears groups represented in America Business travel: size. With $39bn of travea l sales pre-
will give tthe US access to sensitive pandemic, itt is the biggest corporate
information. Distrustt is mutual. Big flight or fight trave
a l specialist.
data is now a strategic resource. That said, a projected addressable
More than
t 240 Chinese companies Irrepressible optimism is required to market worth off $1.4tn overall may be
worth more than $2tn are listed in the inve
n st in corporate travea l businesses a stretch. Company bosses such as
US. Since July,y Beijingg has halted nearly these days. Executives were dustingg off Jamie Dimon are eager to resume their t
all offshore flotations byy data-rich theirr suitcases and passports to hit the globe trotting. But many staff lower
Chinese groups. Those that have a roads again. Now w the highly down the management tree would
alreadyy listed are likely to come home. transmissible Omicron variant is happilyy skip overseas trips to avoid
An even biggerr proportion, about threateningg to stall the recovery. nose swabs and quarantine.
three-quarters byy markett value, face American Express Global Business
uncertaintyy due to theirr US listed Trave
a l has therefore chosen an
status as “variable interest entities”. awkward time to announce a listing.
Lex on the web
These Cayman-registered shells The business, which books travea l for For notes on today’s stories
circumve
m ntt Chinese foreign-ownership corporates, is going publicc through a go to www.f
w t.com/lex
rules for
f mainland companies. Beijing blank-c
k heque company backed k by
has stepped up scrutinyy of VIEs private equity group Apollo. American
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Saturday 4 December / Sunday 5 December 2021
Independence day
Government of Ireland Act 1920 as a let unviable and force her into unity
separate parliament with limited auton- with her larger southern neighbour.
omy and a defined land border. The act The picking of Irish delegates rested
had envisaged parliaments north and with de Valera. Dev, ever enigmatic,
south, both answerable to a crown- announced he would not go to London.
appointed viceroy, and nominating Collins, the Dáil’s minister for finance, at
delegates to a “Council of Ireland”. But, 31 already a national hero, pleaded with
by 1921, the south, with its own Dáil, him to change his mind. De Valera was
or parliament, albeit proscribed, adamant. His reasons have been the
wanted nothing to do with such a Brit- subject of extensive analysis from that
Henry Wilson, the intransigent chief of ish-centric proposal. time forward, for within his crucial deci-
A century after the signing of the Anglo-Irish Treaty, novelist Peter Cunningham the British Imperial General Staff. Some hope remained for a united Ire- sion lay the seeds of the tragic outcome
“Unless we crush the [Irish] murder land. Substantial Catholic minorities that would eventually unfold. His clos-
gangs this summer we . . . lose Ireland were “trapped” in Northern Ireland’s est allies, out-and-out republicans such
tells the inside story of the animosities, rivalries and mistrust behind the talks and the empire,” he noted even as border counties. The Irish would be as Cathal Brugha, the incendiary minis-
reprisals by the Black and Tans were given reason to believe that Britain, ter for defence, and Austin Stack, minis-
being greeted with dismay in parts of through a Boundary Commission, could ter for home affairs, were fundamen-
that established a new state — but also planted the seeds for future conflicts the British press and by the clergy. force a redrawing of Northern Ireland’s tally opposed to dialogue on the basis
De Valera had already been in receipt border to bring in these Catholics under offered, and were fully prepared to go
of overtures made on Lloyd George’s a southern parliament. down fighting, which in Brugha’s case
O
behalf by General Jan Smuts, prime In such circumstances, the logic went, would be a destiny fulfilled.
n June 24 1921, the British Above: illustration strongly anti-de Valera, their opinions minister of South Africa. Following fur- the subsequent much-reduced size of
public was presented with by Tim Marrs formed not only by his activities in ther contacts through back channels Northern Ireland would make the state- Continued on page 2
extraordinary news. Prime 1921 but also because my grandfather’s and a conciliatory speech by King
minister David Lloyd Below: people kneeling in livestock exporting business had been George V at the inauguration in Belfast
George had invited Éamon prayer while British and devastated by the tariffs that had arisen of the Northern Parliament in June, a
de Valera, the leader of Sinn Féin, to Irish leaders met in in the 1930s from de Valera’s “economic truce was called. Prominent Sinn Féin
meet him for talks in London with the London on July 21 1921 war” with Britain. Families all over Ire- members, including Arthur Griffith,
object of ending the war in Ireland. Up to George Rinhart/Corbis via Getty Images
land had taken opposing sides from the
then, imminent and overwhelming use time of the treaty. But as I read, I was Negotiating with Éamon
of military force to settle the Irish ques- riveted not only by the many twists and
tion had been widely expected. Now the turns in the drama but by the fascinat- de Valera was, David
leader of rebels in open war with Britain, ing personalities of those involved. Lloyd George complained,
a man described by the chief secretary Lloyd George had in de Valera some-
for Ireland as “[belonging] to a race of one not directly associated in British like trying ‘to pick up
treacherous murderers”, was coming to minds with shooting British officers. mercury with a fork’
parley in Downing Street. As Winston The Irishman, whose death sentence
Churchill later wrote: “No British Gov- for his part in the 1916 Easter Rising had
ernment in modern times has ever been commuted, had subsequently already frail at 50 years of age, were
appeared to make so sudden and com- escaped from Lincoln prison and in released from prisons, and talks began
plete reversal of policy.” May 1919 gone incognito to America in London on July 14.
The events that followed Lloyd where he had remained until the end of Negotiating with de Valera, a man of
George’s invitation would resonate for a 1920. The Liberal prime minister labyrinthine disposition, was, Lloyd
century. A year later Ireland was needed cover to appease the Conserva- George complained, like trying “to pick
plunged into civil war. The partition of tive party on whose support his coali- up mercury with a fork”. (“Why doesn’t
Ireland, consolidated by the Anglo- tion government increasingly relied. De he use a spoon?” de Valera is said to have
Irish Treaty of December 6 1921, cre- Valera, already with the aura of power responded.) Both men irritated each
ated a longing for a united Ireland that about him, provided cover in a way that other. The prime minister, who
contributed to the Troubles and has an infamous figure such as Michael Col- addressed the Irishman as “Mr de Valer-
underpinned Irish republican activism lins could not. era”, was inclined to make asides in
ever since. Today, the border that runs Nor, it seemed, would the English Welsh to his secretary, Tom Jones, to
through Ireland has been disinterred electorate now tolerate an earth-razing which Dev (his name to most of Ireland)
as an external EU frontier, and the spec- campaign of the kind needed to subdue responded by speaking Irish with his
tre of customs posts returning to Ireland, advocated by those like Sir own delegation.
reverse the gains of the Good Friday Although these talks settled nothing,
Agreement haunts the ongoing Brexit they established a platform for going
protocol negotiations. forward in an atmosphere that, for the
I was immersed in the dramatic moment, was a hopeful alternative to
events of 1921 as part of my research for the resumption of war. After a summer
a novel when Ireland went into pan- of false starts and diplomatic hedge-
demic lockdown. Libraries, bookshops hopping, de Valera promptly accepted
and universities shut their doors; my Lloyd George’s September 29 invitation
preferred sources were blocked. Shortly to a conference in London in October to
afterwards, I went to a shelf of books settle the issue. Preparations in Dublin
that had once belonged to my father, a and in London began.
row of venerable spines I had been star- Ireland’s goal was to be recognised by
ing at for decades but never really seen. Britain as a sovereign, independent
Soon I realised that these old memoirs island state, and for Britain to renounce
and biographies, many annotated in the all claims over Ireland. De Valera pro-
1960s and early 1970s, had probably posed a form of external association
been read back then by Dad as the 50th with the British empire. Britain, how-
anniversary of Ireland’s independence ever, was resolved to grant only a lim-
had approached. ited form of home rule to 26 of Ireland’s
Like many of my generation, I had 32 counties, and dominion status within
been brought up with only the bare the empire, but no autonomy when it
bones of modern Irish history, served came to defence or matters fiscal.
with partisan seasoning. My family Overshadowing all was Northern Ire-
from Waterford in the south-east was land, already established under the
2 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
Life
As the December holiday season
FTW editor
Johannesburg, beautiful in bursts of
purple hydrangea and pink
bougainvillea. The mood was lighter.
Winter had been unspeakable as
Johannesburg was gripped by a third
wave of Covid. It was a season of loss:
two uncles succumbed in hospital; a
beloved cousin passed away weeks
later; a well-known journalist
colleague, Karima Brown; a publisher
friend, Nadia Goetham; a chef whose
Twitter timeline was my scroll of
In the helter-skelter world of aspiration, LesDaChef; the national
songbird Sibongile Khumalo — lost, not
journalism, where news breaks to Covid, but she joined the long toll of
and plans can change just like that, the last year.
Now, hope was finally on the horizon.
the first casualty is often the The Covid death burden went down to
innovative idea — even though almost zero as the vaccination drive
picked up. The charts flattened and
that is ultimately what can make even last week, perusing the daily
you stand out. data, Africa felt like the safest place in
With that in mind, we are the world to have a holiday as we
watched the fourth wave pick up in
launching our first international Europe and the US.
FT Weekend Festival, taking place
And then hope was shattered on
in Washington DC on Saturday November 24 at a press conference
7 May. We will be streaming it, of where the leading South African gene
detective, Professor Tulio de Oliveira,
course, and delivering a digital announced that he and his team had
catch-up service; our working title sequenced a new variant of the virus,
Welcome to ‘Wuhannesburg’
B.1.1.529.
is “The Bigger Picture”. I hope to I listened on my car radio as de
see you there. Oliveira joined health minister Joe
It has been a sad week in the Phaahla to tell the country about the
variant, then still of interest, not yet of
land of Life & Arts, with the concern. In the thick Italian accent we
deaths of two titans, Virgil Abloh have come to recognise, de Oliveira ran
through the now well-known history of
and Stephen Sondheim, who have how Omicron had been detected first in the virus’s mutations had been met many South Africans work around the digital anger was deafening. So, we
so inspired our writers and Botswana, then in South Africa and SOUTH with a ban that was more than a little world is that unemployment is so high went to walk at The Wilds, an
then in Hong Kong. An eagle-eyed racist in its assumptions and at home. Growth in gross domestic inner-city gem of a reserve on
readers over the years. Jo Ellison pathologist at Lancet Laboratories had
AFRICA presumptions about Africa’s scientific product is pegged at an optimistic 5 per Johannesburg’s hilly northern slopes.
has written beautifully in her noticed a change in gene mutation and DIARY abilities. The president called on cent for the rest of the year but the The artist James Delaney has dotted
reported it up the public health countries to rescind the ban as news travel bans put a spanner in the works. metal sculptures across the park. As
back-page column on their spirit sentinel system for which our country emerged that the Netherlands, in fact, you walk and climb, you spot a
and force. We also have a moving is well-known in the scientific world. FERIAL had the first cases. My husband and I got married in statuesque pink giraffe, a red monkey
tribute to Sondheim by the actor South Africa’s scientific and political HAFFAJEE While China and a few other December 2019 and our planned in a tree, a purple wildebeest. After
communities have practised radical countries pursue a Covid-zero strategy, honeymoon was to visit China. The the weekend rains, the trees and
and singer Mandy Patinkin on transparency with its people and with most of the world has realised that we identification of the novel coronavirus grass were bright lime green.
page 12, and a review of Tuesday’s the world since coronavirus made have to vaccinate and learn to live with in Wuhan later that month put paid to Raindrops still glistened. The sun had
landfall here in March 2020. The Delta coronavirus until it becomes endemic. it. I was to attend the Perugia come out. The shrubs had drunk
“Virgil was here” show in Miami variant was first sequenced and This is the strategy South Africa is journalism festival in March 2020 and deeply so their flowers were perky and
on page 4. identified here in December that year, pursuing, along with global best yellow, pink and purple. It was a
The other shadow over this
killing our summer vibe and earning practice of alerting and sharing When you’ve had three spectacular display, a showing of
the country kneecapping travel bans. genomic surveillance results quickly nature’s curative qualities.
week is, of course, Omicron. Ferial Not even a year later, the same thing and transparently. The ban has honeymoons crashed by At The Wilds, you climb to its highest
Haffajee, one of the great editors of has happened again. Hours after the provoked national and international corona, you learn to roll point and you can see the cityscape.
press conference, the UK announced a anger for all it says about geopolitical All the markers of Johannesburg’s
post-apartheid South Africa, has travel ban. Family, trade and tourism power and of how a small country with the punches history as the city where gold was
turned her attention to this in the links between South Africa and the UK trying to do its best can be treated like discovered — the buildings, the stately
are significant, so a sigh went up from a pariah in the midst of viral fear. The homes of the “randlords”, the
Diary, from the missteps of the the tip of Africa and stretched to the idea of a global village, where we are skyscrapers. In typical South African
elite to the fallout of the variant on UK as plans for holidays and reunions each other’s carers, lies tattered again. so we thought that was as good a humour, the city earned the moniker
were torn apart by the identification It’s the little heartbreaks that catch replacement celebration as any. The “Wuhannesburg” after the Chinese city
her homeland — and her third of Omicron. me. My niece in Japan can’t travel back virus found a second epicentre in Italy, where the virus was first identified,
(and thwarted) attempt to leave Hour by hour the world closed us out for us to meet her little girl. My so that plan hit the skids too. when our numbers climbed higher and
as news of the variant spread. More WhatsApp is filled with stories like this By December 2020, we had faster than the rest of the country’s.
Johannesburg for a honeymoon. European countries followed suit. Then from friends and family. The tourism moderated our ambitions and decided You can impose travel bans but, in
Having had a ticket to Jo’burg on the United Arab Emirates and Qatar, industry had been looking forward to on Cape Town. When de Oliveira and no time at all, the Delta variant that
where tens of thousands of South visitors, 300,000 from the UK alone. his team sequenced the Delta variant, was sequenced here had become
hold for nearly two years, I am Africans work. Iran announced a travel They had booked tickets, Ramaphosa locked down the country dominant — like Omicron could shortly
revelling in her tales — and am so ban. Then the US. We had been sealed accommodation and visits to wine and imposed internal travel bans. be. We have to learn to live with
happy to find a kindred spirit who off from the world again. farms, and planned to go shark-diving, When you’ve had three honeymoons coronavirus and my “Wuhannesburg”
President Cyril Ramaphosa is a to the beaches and game parks. crashed by corona, you learn to roll felt like it was not a bad place to be
loves that city despite its dire gracious and personable leader, not Above: sculptures by artist Cancellations came in faster than you with the punches. quarantined in by the rest of the world.
reputation. Thank you, as ever, for given to authoritarian table-thumping. James Delaney at The can say Omicron, threatening a sector Last Sunday, I needed a break from
But even he was angry. South Africa’s Wilds, a nature reserve in that could pull South Africa from its my Omicron doom-scrolling. It was too Ferial Haffajee is a South African
reading us. Alec Russell transparency and scientific sharing of Johannesburg — Covid doldrums. Part of the reason so awful to watch and the din of Africa’s editor and writer
Independence day
therefore impetuous and rather excita- Hans Place. Disaster was narrowly for cabinet. Ireland was to be granted no In a final bid, Lloyd George offered fis-
ble; the strongest personality of the averted following the uninvited inter- more than dominion status; Northern cal autonomy but the Irish still
party . . . ’ The dossier concluded: “All vention of Pope Benedict XV, whose Ireland’s established position would demurred. At that point, the prime min-
the delegates will be very nervous and ill message of goodwill for the talks to King remain unchanged; some concessions ister’s tone changed. The British Army
at ease . . . In overcoming their nerv- George V elicited a response from the on defence could be expected. Brugha, garrisoned in Ireland was on high alert,
Continued from page 1 crossed separately some days later.) ousness they may be a bit rude and sovereign which seemed to confirm Ire- combustible to an alarming degree, he said with force. The alternative to
The conference was set to begin in extravagant in speech.” land as a de facto member of the impe- accused Griffith and Collins of betraying agreement that night was “immediate
The Irish team was named. Griffith, Downing Street on Tuesday October 11. At the opening session Lloyd George rial family. the core Irish position. The bitter split in and terrible war”. The chastened Irish
minister for foreign affairs, and Collins The British appointees were seasoned placed the delegates on opposite sides of Now the Conservative party confer- Sinn Féin was now clear. The draft pro- left Downing Street having agreed to
were the backbone. Robert Barton, 40, politicians and unrepentant Unionists the conference table before introducing ence loomed and Lloyd George, closeted posals were rejected and the delegates, return by 10pm with a final decision.
an ascendancy landlord from County whose distaste for Irish rebels could not them. Collins’ ability to quickly sum up with Griffith, pleaded with the Irishman divided among themselves, returned in “I have never,” wrote Churchill of
Wicklow, was a staunch de Valera ally be overstated. Compared to the Irish- men is evident from the notes of his first gloom that night to London. Collins, “seen so much pain and suffer-
and minister for economic affairs. men, without experience in world impressions: he disliked Lloyd George, Seven months later, Ireland On December 4, discussions resumed ing in restraint.”
Another Dev ally, George Gavan Duffy, affairs, the English side had recently distrusted Churchill and loathed and Irish counterproposals were pre- Shortly afterwards, Collins announced
had defended Sir Roger Casement, the concluded the Treaty of Versailles. Greenwood. Of Birkenhead: “Concise. was ravaged by civil war sented. The Irish suggestion of external to his colleagues that he would support
Irish nationalist hero prosecuted in 1916 Austen Chamberlain, leader of the Clearness of ideas . . . A good man.” fought between pro-treaty association with the empire was once Griffith. Duggan indicated likewise. For
for treason. Eamonn Duggan, a veteran house, emphatically opposed any Later, he wrote: “I prefer Birkenhead to again rejected. Again and again Griffith hours Griffith and Collins entreated Bar-
of the 1916 Easter Rising, was appointed autonomy for Ireland. Winston Church- anyone else.” and anti-treaty forces insisted he would accept association ton to sign. Barton eventually agreed;
liaison officer. ill, secretary of state for the colonies, Over the remaining weeks, the Eng- with the crown only on conditions of Gavan Duffy followed Barton’s example.
Two secretaries were nominated: was the dogged son of Lord Randolph lish in essence negotiated with Griffith Irish unity, notwithstanding the con- At 11pm the exhausted delegates
John Chartres, a civil servant who had Churchill, a legendary champion of and Collins as the other Irish delegates not to allow the talks to break down over firmed status of Northern Ireland as a returned to Downing Street where a
Griffith’s confidence, and Erskine Ulster. The secretary of state for Ireland, were pushed out into sub-conferences. Ulster, the core Unionist issue, for fear separate legislative entity. All the sombre British side awaited. The Irish
Childers, an Englishman, who had not. Hamar Greenwood, a shameless apolo- Progress was slow. After work, Collins the Conservatives would bring down his emphasis was on the political with scant announced that they would sign the
Childers, Barton’s first cousin, was a gist for the Black and Tans, was some- usually withdrew to his separate quar- government. The prime minister hinted attention paid to financial or economic treaty creating the Irish Free State.
character fiction could not have out- one Collins had sworn never to shake ters in Cadogan Gardens, provided to at a Boundary Commission; Griffith pri- details. A clause that transferred part of As the Downing Street typewriters
done. Author in 1903 of the bestselling hands with. The Earl of Birkenhead, in him by Lady Hazel Lavery, while Grif- vately promised to forbear. the UK’s national debt to the Irish state- clattered out the final draft, Birkenhead
spy thriller, The Riddle of the Sands, in 1916, as attorney-general had success- fith went to the theatre or played chess On December 3, the Irish delegates in-waiting went undisputed, with eco- would recall how the reserve between
1914, with Molly, his American wife, fully procured the death sentence for Sir in his delegation’s rented quarters in were back in Dublin with a bleak draft nomic implications that would lie unat- the two sides collapsed and how they
they had sailed their yacht into Roger Casement. tended until 1925. “laughed and jested until copies of the
Howth, County Dublin, with a consign- Little was known in London of the On December 5 one last attempt treaty were brought in for signature”.
ment of German rifles destined for the Irishmen, which had led Birkenhead to began. In Ireland, rosary vigils for peace “I may have signed my political death
Irish Volunteers. Regarded by de Valera privately commission résumés. The were being held as two armies faced warrant tonight,” Birkenhead remarked
as a constitutional genius, Childers was resulting dossier summarily relegated each other under an increasingly uneasy to Collins, who replied: “I may have
distrusted by Collins and detested the lesser players: “Duggan (Catholic) truce. Griffith, to the surprise of his signed my actual death warrant.”
by Griffith. . . . completely under the influence of colleagues, was reminded by Lloyd Seven months later, Ireland was rav-
On the insistence of de Valera, who Collins; recognises that he is not one of George of his promise not to break on aged by civil war fought between pro-
had become “a particularist in the nice- the strong men . . . Barton (Protestant) the question of Ulster; Griffith hotly treaty and anti-treaty forces. On August
ties of statecraft”, according to one biog- . . . educated at Rugby and Christch- confirmed his promise, made albeit in a 22 1922, Collins was ambushed and shot
rapher, the Irish delegates were urch; . . . a substantial farmer; has no different context. dead less than 20 miles from his birth-
appointed as plenipotentiaries by the outstanding quality . . . Gavan Duffy Birkenhead’s legal skills were then place in County Cork.
Irish Dáil — but again, Dev’s ambivalent (Catholic) . . . vain and self-sufficient, called on to provide a form of words in Ninety-nine years later, in June 2020,
hand intruded. At a final cabinet meet- likes to hear himself talk.” the oath to the sovereign acceptable to Fine Gael and Fianna Fáil, the political
ing, in a scribbled pencil note to Griffith, Then the two remaining Irishmen: both sides. After much discussion descendants of the respective Irish civil
he instructed that the plenipotentiaries “Arthur Griffith (Catholic) . . . will start on defence, Churchill yielded that the war belligerents, along with the Green
make no decision without prior sanc- somewhere about AD1100 and argue up new Irish state be permitted to con- party, entered government in Ireland
tion of the cabinet, a seeming contradic- to the sovereign independent right of struct naval vessels to protect revenue together for the first time, something
tion of the terms under which the dele- every nation . . . usually silent . . . is and fisheries. my grandfather would never have
gates had just been appointed. more clever than de Valera, but not so Griffith then agreed Ulster be thought possible.
The main Irish delegation to London, attractive; is the real power in Sinn Féin. excluded from further discussion pro-
25 persons including six female secre- Michael Collins (Catholic). “Minister of vided a government-appointed Bound- ‘Freedom is a Land I Cannot See’, a novel by
taries and a cook, sailed in the first week Finance” [sic] . . . full of physical ary Commission be established. The Peter Cunningham, is published by
of October. (Collins and his entourage energy; quick thinker, a Cork man, Michael Collins leaves Downing Street in October 1921— Hulton Archive/Getty Images British agreed. Sandstone Press
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 3
Life
moqueca, a traditional seafood stew with ence can’t be dictated by what we’re
D
— and the question she asks men at all these things, it
iego returns with our main
who want to work for her dishes. DuVernay hands actually makes me sad,
him the plate of prawns that
A
are still locked in their because why am I the first
va DuVernay floats out shells and smiles. “This is this late in the game?’
from her office in a full- too fancy. Can you open this for us? Tell
length emerald dress, her the chef I’m from Compton and I don’t
skirt billowing around her, know how to do it.” He takes them away.
and greets me with a hug, DuVernay can’t emphasise enough gender, to only zero in on the thing that
apologising for making me wait. I’d how much she loves her work. I ask her is not about the dominant culture or
arrived 15 minutes earlier at the head- what she does for fun and she tries to gender. So I’m asked all the black ques-
quarters of Array, the heart of the 49- explain that the work is the fun. tions and black lady questions, and not
year-old filmmaker’s expanding creative “I really love what I do everyday. To about the shot or the performance, or
empire, but DuVernay was recording a the point where people say, ‘you’re not the cinematography or the costume
guest segment for Kelly Clarkson’s day- taking care of yourself, you’re always design. Practically never. It’s working at
time TV show. “I usually don’t wear this working.’ But if you were working on the a deficit because they’re leaving a lot off
much make-up,” she explains, laughing. thing that was your highest dream, at the table.”
A little over 10 years ago DuVernay the level where you got to choose what We’ve been talking now for over an
released her first feature film; since then you wanted to do and you had the hour and I realise that she has barely
she’s become a Hollywood powerhouse, resources, well, that’s the window I’m in. glanced at her phone. She takes a minute
writing, directing, producing and even I’m having a blast.” to turn it over now, and scrolls quickly
distributing movies, her own and others’. Still, I’m curious about the challenges down a seemingly endless slew of new
Her company’s campus sits in the mostly she must face in an industry that messages. I catch Diego’s eye but when
residential enclave of Historic Filipino- remains dominated by white men. I he comes around and offers the dessert
town, not far from downtown LA. take a few spoonfuls of my stew and ask menu, we can’t resist taking a look. We
There’s a 50-seater cinema and court- her flat out: “What’s it like being in an decide on a coconut flan with two
yard walls filled with colourful murals industry as a black woman trying to do spoons, although when it arrives neither
honouring women from the local com- all these things?’ of us can manage more than two bites.
munity; by the gate a wrought iron sign is She hesitates before answering and I pose one last question. “Ultimately,
engraved with a quote from the poet takes a few bites of the fish. I can tell when you think about the work that you
Gwendolyn Brooks: “Art Urges Voyages”. she’s thinking how best to answer me. I do, what do you hope for?”
“We came back to campus in June, also sense from her body language — She leans back away from the table
and it’s 100 per cent fully vaccinated,” she’s not looking at me — that it’s a ques- and places one arm around the rim of
says DuVernay, as we walk across a tion of which she’s not necessarily fond. the chair beside her, the emerald drape
courtyard. “I had to get back to work. I — Ciaran Murphy She puts her fork down. “I think people of her sleeves cascading down. “You
kept everyone on payroll during the dictate their own experience, not dic- know, when you’re promoting a movie
pandemic and we actually grew. There tate how they’ll be treated, but dictate you’re always asked, ‘What do you want
were six or seven new hires.” their own experience.” She lays out people to take from this?’ But I’m not
From the outset, DuVernay has had some options. “You can go into some- thinking of manufacturing an outcome.
bigger ideas than focusing on her own thing like, it’s all against me. Because it I’m just doing the things I’m interested
career. She’s a brilliant, versatile film- is all against you. And choose to be com- in and want to explore, that I think feel
maker, from her Sundance-winning bative. Or you can say, it’s all against me good and am excited to share with oth-
romance Middle of Nowhere to her Mar- but I’m about to break down these walls. ers. I trust there’ll be others who agree,
tin Luther King biopic Selma, nominated Or it’s all against me and I’m just going to or find something in the work that they
for Best Picture at the 2015 Oscars, and go along with the status quo and get are interested in too. The fun part for me
S
the searing documentary 13th, an exam- mine, or it’s all against me but I’m going is watching what people find.”
ination of the links between slavery and he started off shooting docu- herself: she was the first black woman to to turn it around.”
the US prison-industrial complex. Her WO OD S PO ON mentaries and in 2010 wrote win the award for best dramatic director She looks me in the eye. “Our experi- Enuma Okoro is a Life & Arts columnist
Emmy-winning 2019 mini-series When 107 West 9th Street, Los and directed her first feature, I at Sundance, the first black woman to be
They See Us, the story of the eventually Angeles, USA Will Follow, on a tiny $50,000 nominated for a Golden Globe for direc-
exonerated Central Park Five, was a budget. At the same time, she tor, the first black female director to
pacy drama that showed her commit- Yucca fries $6 founded a distribution company to direct a film with a budget of $100m
ment to highlighting historic injustice. Beet salad $13 release her work and that of other (fantasy adventure A Wrinkle in Time).
But she’s also an industry disrupter, Mixed appetisers $12 women and creatives of colour. Affrm “The idea of being the first at all these
determined to put a spotlight on the cre- (African American Film Releasing things, it actually makes me sad, because
Grilled prawns $14
ative work of women and people of col- Movement Now) was rebranded in 2015 why am I the first this late in the game?”
our, to champion them as filmmakers Grelhas fish $17 as Array, and today the company com- says DuVernay. “I don’t put it in my bio,
and across the industry. This is about far Moqueca $27 bines film and TV production, independ- and I don’t let people use it to introduce
more than diverse casting: DuVernay Plantains $6 ent filmmaker support and releases, me at events if I have a say. Because when
has played an outsized role in moving to public and educational programming I get picked as the first, I don’t think,
Pastel Portuguese $9
the centre the stories and experiences of and a platform to support under-repre- ‘ooh, I’m the first!’ I think, ‘wow, there
those we’re used to seeing at the margins. Coconut flan $7 sented professionals in the industry. were a lot of people that got ignored,
As we drive into downtown LA, head- Glass Windstream The company started with DuVernay overlooked, underused and underseen
ing for a Brazilian place called Wood- Chardonnay $13 and two others; today, she tells me, in the path to my being the first acknowl-
spoon, I mention one of her recent Total (incl tax & 22% tip) there are some 40 staff, 90 per cent of edged.’ I know those other talented peo-
projects — the re-release on Netflix of $163.09
them women. “We do have five men. ple are there. So it means some institu-
Sankofa, a 1993 film by the Ethiopian One of our interview questions is, ‘have tion or studio, or awards saw fit that I was
filmmaker Haile Gerima. Feted at the you ever reported to a woman, and that going to be the first one they let in. I’m
Berlin Film Festival, the movie was orig- woman reported to a woman at a com- not happy about that reality.”
inally ignored by US distributors and pany that the woman owned? And if so, She pauses and sips her water. Then
only found an audience because Gerima then have you ever had a black woman shakes her head slowly and adds: “And
fought to release it independently. DuV- boss?’ I just ask them straight out. You yet I’m not disparaging it. I know there’s
ernay, who calls Gerima one of her artis- have to.” value to winning Sundance and being
tic heroes, masterminded the restora- We pull up to a little hole-in-the-wall the first black person to do all that stuff.
tion of the film. “It does get into a ques- place sandwiched between nondescript I’m just saying I’m not internalising it.
tion of authenticated work,” says DuV- storefronts. Inside, it feels like I’ve I’m using it but it’s not a badge of honour
ernay. “You could have a successful, walked into a friend’s apartment, fur- for me.”
robust career serving black peo- nished with things she’s nabbed from We are meeting on the five-year anni-
ple . . . You could be a star in your com- her grandmother’s house. versary of one of those firsts. Her 2016
munity but not within the authenti- We’re led to our little table with no documentary 13th, a film about race,
cated spaces. He’s 75 years old and the fanfare by a friendly but harried server. justice, and the American incarceration
Academy is just looking his way.” He slips us paper menus, tells us he’s system, was the first film by a black
DuVernay’s own success may seem manning the busy lunch hour alone, filmmaker to open the New York Film
meteoric, but she’s been in the film busi- then rattles off the day’s specials. It usu- Festival, and the first documentary. She
ness for more than 20 years. After ally takes me forever to decide at a res- smiles when I mention it.
receiving her degree in African Ameri- taurant. DuVernay gives the menu a “What happened with 13th was
can Studies and English from UCLA in once-over and asks our waiter his name. extraordinary and meaningful, but one
the mid-1990s, she worked in entertain- He says Diego. She then orders appetis- of the most significant things for me
ment PR, setting up her own agency in ers for the table: a sample of the small about that was just the number of
1999. Watching filmmakers at work, plates, a mix of Brazilian street food, an young people who watched it. Netflix
and knowing there were stories she order of yucca fries, some grilled prawns shows you the data. I mean we’re talking
wanted to tell from a different perspec- and a beet salad. She tells him we’ll be 16, 17, 21-year-olds worldwide, 190
tive, DuVernay started to think about ready to order the main dishes by the countries, watching and telling their
writing and directing herself. time he brings the appetisers. parents and teachers. To be able to feel
“I have always loved film, but I never I ask DuVernay if she comes here that swell of youth enthusiasm around
thought I could do it,” she says. “But often. She admits that she hasn’t been something so important was fascinating
when I started working in publicity and able to get away for lunch in a while, but and powerful.”
being on set, I was like ‘They’re doing she chose it because it’s a nice place and Diego returns with a trayful of appe-
this? I can do this.’ . . . It was really it’s owned by a black woman. It’s no sur- tisers, filling the table with mismatched
observing directors, white men who prise that even in picking a restaurant, plates of potato and cod croquettes,
were directing, and thinking, ‘I’m she is intentional about highlighting the kibe, plantains, coconut shrimp dump-
interested in what he’s doing, and I can work and creativity of other black lings and grilled prawns. We put in our
do it too.’” women. DuVernay has blazed a trail order for the main course. I order the
4 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
Style
the logo
indication of unrealised potential. By Charlie Porter product uniqueness and good timing,
with a bit of help from Atlanta-based
V
Chinese blogger Savi of @savislook,
irgil Abloh was all who independently started to wear the
about possibilities. brand in 2017, exposing it to her 4m
This is clear from the Weibo followers.
tributes paid since the “We do well in that territory because
American designer’s our products look so different from
death on Sunday, aged 41, from a other brands and that gives us an edge,”
rare and aggressive heart cancer. says Yousefi. Similarly, Beste Manastir,
For a new generation of black crea- co-founder of Turkish leather goods
tives, especially those working in Womenswear | Younger brand Manu Atelier, says Chinese con-
fashion, Abloh was both encour- sumers were attracted by the unusual
ager and enabler. design and bright colours of her Pristine
His design work has been about Chinese are swapping big handbags. The label launched in 2014
possibilities too, both at his own and quickly gained a following in the
label Off-White, and since 2018, as country, despite not having a direct
men’s artistic director of Louis
labels for independent presence in the market at that time (the
Vuitton. On Tuesday in Miami, brand is now sold on Tmall and JD.com,
Louis Vuitton staged “Virgil Was designers, write Annachiara as well as six offline retailers). China
Here”, an outdoor showing of its now represents 34 per cent of Manu
spring/summer 2022 collection, Atelier’s wholesale sales and is head to
held with the blessing of Abloh’s Biondi and Sherry Fei Ju head with the US as its largest market.
family. Streamed live, it gave the To have a shot with China’s new savvy
opportunity to consider Abloh’s A statue of Abloh at the show fashion consumers, uniqueness of
role in expanding what is permis- design is paramount, but Ding of DFO
I
sible in men’s clothing. Showroom stresses that it needs to be
Much of this is big-picture stuff, provocations. A leather parka hate looking like a million dollars. I combined with good fit, price point,
like the elevation of casual dress- embossed with the LV monogram want to look independent and brand awareness and availability. Pascal
ing, the dominance of the sneaker was sprayed an ombré from green smart — like I’m different, but not Conte-Jodra, managing director of
and the recalibration of the tai- to blue. A violet and black track- too different.” Keira Kong, a millen- Mugler, seems to have followed this for-
lored suit from formality to a gar- suit was trimmed across the body nial Shanghai-based agent for mula when he approached the Chinese
ment of pleasure. But Abloh was and around the leg with the house South Korean music artists, is trying to market three and a half years ago as part
also interested in how it feels to Damier check. explain her newfound love for French of the larger relaunch of the brand
wear clothes. This was to do with Alongside his work in design, brand Coperni. Since designers Arnaud
sizing, with a well-cut roominess
that allowed more body shapes to
Abloh was a DJ, still playing at par-
ties weeks before his death. There
Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer
relaunched the label in 2019, Kong has
‘It’s an exciting time for
fit the pieces. It was also to do with was cross-pollination in his prac- built a small wardrobe of Coperni sta- a lot of smaller brands to
play, and approaching middle age
but still believing in fun.
tice, a realisation that for those
who enjoy fashion, music and art,
ples, including two dresses, two tops,
three jackets and a pair of trousers. She
get in and start building
The show opened with a voiceo- they are all in the same world. commends the brand’s tailoring, its sig- reputable businesses’
ver from Abloh. “I’ve been on this In recent seasons, Abloh had nature asymmetric cuts and its prices
focus in terms of my art and crea- favoured a covered-up look. (T-shirts sell for about Rmb839 on
tivity,” he said, “of getting adults to Barely any skin was revealed, save farfetch.cn, or $130). under creative director Casey Cadwal-
behave like children again, that for legs in some looks with shorts. “The fabrics are never going to be at lader. The brand partnered with six
they go back into this sense of Most models wore hats and balacl- Chanel’s level but their cut, their con- stockists in key locations and focused on
wonderment. They start to stop avas. The layered-up outfits were cept and the way they see women is building relationships with local talents,
using their mind, and they start desexualised, creating an never too girly,” continues Kong. “They such as creative consultant Leaf
using their imagination.” like strong, independent women and Greener and singers Jike Junyi, Bibi
As his words played out, a model Abloh wasn’t scared that’s who I am trying to be.” Zhou and Cai Xukun.
walked out in a roomy black suit Like Kong, a growing number of Chi- “More than in other countries, in
that was belted at the waist like a of messing up if the nese consumers, often part of the Gen Z China is about taking the time to build
safari jacket. Over it was worn a experiment was worth and millennial cohorts, are using cloth- relationships with local insiders to
black waistcoat, under it a black ing and luxury purchases to differenti- really become that indie fashion brand
shirt and black tie. The trousers the risk ate themselves from their peers. Pur- that everyone talks about on a very per-
were sharply cut but loose, overly chases are less motivated by the older sonal level,” says Conte-Jodra.
long and slashed open to above the generation’s paradigm of “status” and Jamie Freed, global vice-president,
ankle, revealing the black sneak- approachability to the pieces. more influenced by elements private client, at Farfetch, says the
ers beneath. This slashed pant was Abloh’s interest in possibilities such as “identity state- ecommerce site’s highest-spending cus-
a detail from Abloh’s very first allowed for a release from perfec- ment”, says Federica tomers, who spend at least Rmb100,000
design for the house: the suit he tion. Many luxury fashion shows Levato, partner at Bain & ($15,000) a year, have been particularly
wore to the 2018 Met Gala. get stuck in the assumption that Company in Milan. This interested in niche South Korean and
This opening look was finished flawlessness is the goal. The result shift has opened the way tastemakers. “They want to be the selec- western brands since the pandemic.
with a crushed black top hat and can often be emptiness. Abloh for lesser-known and edg- tor of what’s cool, rather than being led “They are starting to abandon what was
supersized black ice hockey wasn’t scared of messing up if the ier brands to provide a by very large brands,” she says. the hot genre of fashion pre-pandemic
gloves. The suit, belt and waistcoat experiment was worth the risk. point of difference from Niche foreign labels have been gain- — luxury streetwear — and we are seeing
were held by pin hooks the colour It was more interesting than the big luxury labels now ing traction in the country for at least more of a diversification of the fashion
of a green highlighter. His point: that, and more heartbreaking. It ubiquitous in the country. the past five years, but recently their portfolio, shifting towards typically
the continued relevancy of tailor- offered a glimpse of how Abloh’s It’s a trend that hasn’t appeal has accelerated. The arrival of feminine brands like Alessandra Rich
ing depends on ingenuity and play. work would have evolved, like the gone unnoticed by Wenyan foreign ecommerce platforms hosting and subdued minimalistic brands like
There was no labouring of a sin- playful wearability of a fleece Jiao, director of Shanghai a variety of smaller labels have made Rick Owens and The Row.”
gle catwalk point of view but more zip-up worn on the catwalk by his and Wuxi-based multi- these brands more accessible across These changes in consumer behav-
a multitude of suggestions and friend Kid Cudi. The jacket had a brand boutique Mushion, the country. Farfetch opened a digital iour are most evident across first and
green pattern like an action figure, which stocks brands such as storefront on Chinese ecommerce second-tier cities, where luxury con-
its zipper-pull in the shape of a Cult Gaia, By Far and platform JD.com in 2019, and is now sumption has already matured, but
rave running man. There was still Nanushka. “[Young con- also available on Tmall, and Ssense Danni Liu, managing director of iBlue
so much for Abloh to do. sumers] in first-tier cities launched its Mandarin site in 2018. Communications and a former media
In a speech before the show, such as Beijing, Shanghai and But a larger shift in consumer cul- strategist at Chanel, says social media
Michael Burke, chair of Louis Vuit- Guangzhou are showing ture is also under way, says Adam are breaking down barriers between
ton, noted Abloh was the same age increasingly personal charac- Knight, co-founder of China-focused city tiers, with trends seeping through
as his oldest child. “Virgil’s passing teristics in their fashion marketing agency Tong Digital. He more easily. “It’s not only sophisticated
remains inconceivable to me,” said styles,” she says. “The previ- points to how more nuanced ways of groups, it’s a wider trend,” she says.
Burke. “I considered him like a ous generations may not have defining success are emerging in the “I definitely think that there has been
son.” such a high level of acceptance country, beyond how much money a very strong trend going into this direc-
He had last spoken with Abloh when it comes to trying things one makes or what luxury brands tion down to everyday consumers,”
Saturday evening. “He was dis- outside of their comfort zone.” one owns, and sees countercultural adds DFO’s Ding, noticing how posts
traught not to be here to share it Independent multi-brand movements such as “lying flat”, about niche brands on Xiaohongshu, a
with us in person,” Burke said. boutiques, which have been with young people pushing back popular social commerce platform with
At the show’s climax, before fire- expanding in the country since against overwork and the country’s gru- more than 300m users, are on the rise.
works and a light show over the late 2000s, have contributed to this Top: a guest at Shanghai elling “996” culture (working from 9am Similarly, Knight says that rather
Miami, Abloh had one final com- shift. Their owners, such as Jiao, often Fashion Week 2019 wears to 9pm, six days a week), as a sign of than trickling down from well-off, fash-
ment played out to the crowd. studied abroad and are particularly a Heliot Emil outfit with changing priorities and values. “Young ionable shoppers to a wider set of con-
“There’s no limit,” he said. “Life is attuned to international influences. black boots consumers are looking for more mean- sumers, these changes are a genera-
so short that you can’t waste even a Meimei Ding, chief executive of show- ingful forms of creating self-identity tional shift across the board. Brands
day subscribing to what someone room DFO International, describes a Above: digital influencer through luxury purchases,” he says. “It’s that rest on their laurels are set to suffer,
thinks you can do versus knowing new generation of buyers that are less Yoyo Cao wears a Mugler an exciting time for a lot of smaller he says. “It’s this generation and these
what you can do.” Such was his attached to institutional logos and lux- jacket and jeans — Matthew brands to get in and start building repu- consumers who are going to power all
Kid Kudi modelling SS22 impetus: keep going, do more. ury brands and more interested in being Sperzel/Getty Images; Kirstin Sinclair
table businesses from the ground up.” consumption for the next decade.”
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 5
Style
Net-a-Porter’s bestsellers was a pair of
Dress for
four-inch, crystal embellished heels by
Amina Muaddi (£850, net-a-porter.
com, though they’re now sold out).
The Outnet has a great selection of
party shoes. Magda Butrym’s red velvet
mules fall somewhere between Frago-
nard’s “The Swing” and Mother Christ-
excess
mas (were £708, now £354, theout-
net.com).
But there are those who are seizing the
opportunity to go all out after so long
spent wearing athleisure, and who feel
confident enough to dress to the nines
whether the dress code demands it or
not. Liane Wiggins, head of womens-
wear at Matches Fashion, says: “Cus-
tomers have been focusing on getting
back to celebrating and dressing up
again, and the market really responded
Eveningwear | Workwear may be ever more casual to this too, so the offer was even wider
than normal.”
but the office party is an occasion to make an Renting makes sense for those who
are after an overstated, fabulously frivo-
lous one-night-only outfit. “After
effort. Charlie Gowans-Eglinton explains how Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve,
office Christmas parties rank as the
third most popular reason to rent,” says
Victoria Prew, chief executive and co-
W
founder of fashion rental platform
e are asked to Hurr. “We are expecting all-time high
wear ‘festive’ demand across sequin dresses, state-
a n d t h e re i s ment clutch bags, feathers and lace.”
always a wonder- Prew will be wearing a printed silk
ful display of dis- dress by The Vampire’s Wife with a pair
gusting Christmas jumpers, which of low-heeled mules to host her com-
I avoid wearing if I can.” So says pany’s party this week, cocktails and
Lydia Yadi, 30, a senior commis- canapés in their concept store on Chel-
sioning editor at a leading publish- sea’s King’s Road (£1395 new, but rent
ing conglomerate, of her office from £95, hurrcollective.com). Velvet is
Christmas party. a top-performing category, and the pick
In the new age of hybrid working, of the bunch is Saloni’s black velvet midi
corporate dress codes have blurred, dress finished with oversized beaded
making the nuances of what to wear bows (£600 new, rentals from £60).
to the office party even harder to To buy, I found the beautifully cut
navigate. Yadi’s solution this year is wide-leg Montana jumpsuit in plush
a new crimson velvet suit with a
camisole underneath, or her old ’It’s not about a casual party
“go-to”, a green velvet mini-dress
with a high neckline that feels appro- look but about choosing the
priate for a big party with everyone at right pieces, which can
the publisher invited.
But more of us will be treading new elevate casual items’
ground — or perhaps thin ice — as
many company events take on differ-
ent forms in the Covid era. Anna Ber- floral jacquard with long fringing that burgundy or black viscose mix velvet at
keley is a former buyer for Prada and moves beautifully, is impactful enough Jane (£880, janeatelier.com). Frame’s
Selfridges who now styles private cli- on its own — wear with a white shirt or a sharp red velvet suit could be worn as
ents. Several have recently sought her which were the right side of kitsch, fine-knit black jumper. Totême’s wool separates long past Santa season (£617
help dressing for newly shrunk parties unlike a polyester elf jumper. She also and silk mix black blazer (£590, net-a- and £362 for the blazer and trousers
that are desk or department-wide, with has a few vintage Givenchy gold chain porter.com) is an evening-friendly iter- respectively, frame-store. com). Mother
unspecified dress codes. necklaces (£350 each) that would look ation of that tailoring staple with a of Pearl has a beautiful black dress with
“Men are being really casual now, not brilliant with a simple black dress, and a slight sheen to the fabric and a sash faux pearl buttoned sleeves for embel-
in suits, maybe a shirt with a jumper, pair of black beaded chandelier earrings belt to bring in the waist, and could lishment that’s still subtle (£325, moth-
and I think a lot of women have floun- by Marni (£140) that could be worn be worn with the matching trousers erofpearl.co.uk). Up a few notches from
dered with that,” says Berkeley. “It’s so with anything from a party dress to as a suit, over a pair of jeans, or a silk that is anything feather-trimmed:
much easier to be smart, and harder your everyday tailoring. slip dress — my favourites are by 16Arlington’s minidresses are show-
to do smart/casual. You don’t want to Corporate lawyer Natasha Ong, 34, Bias Editions (£215, biasedi- stoppers, and just a bit showgirl (£705,
be too casual, because it strikes the is expecting “more smart casual than tions.com). net-a-porter.com).
wrong note.” full-out glam” at her team’s seated din- “This season we have made a con- Some of us will miss the grand, thou-
She suggests upping the ante on ner followed by drinks, “as I think scious effort to provide party pieces sands-strong office parties; I suspect
accessories as a simple way to transition Christmas parties are still a little scaled with more versatility,” says Libby Page, just as many will not. There was cer-
from day to evening. “Change your back this year”. However, she still Net-a-Porter’s senior market editor, tainly no networking happening at my
make-up, adding more mascara or lip- plans to wear “something “such as a Lurex knit for evening that most recent party, where anyone at
stick, and add huge jewellery, big ear- s p a r k ly ”, n a m e ly a can also be pared back with jeans or a director level left within 10 minutes.
rings or a big necklace. It’s low key, but sequinned skirt with a sim- velvet dress that can be worn in the day But the sequins are worth saving, the
it’s doing something to show there’s an ple shirt and heels — to her, with flat boots. It’s certainly not about a dress codes worth dusting off. I, for one,
effort there.” at least, the latter are still casual party look but rather about feel nostalgic for the buzz in the
For the best jewellery edit in London, a big part of her working choosing the right pieces, which can women’s bathrooms before the party,
visit Felt on Chelsea Green (feltlon- wardrobe. elevate casual items.” where a fine mist of deodorant and hair-
don.com). Founder Eliza Poklewski That solution to the Clockwise from main: Home working has hit heel wearing spray thickened the air, and a few
Koziell’s stock is a mixture of remarka- smart/casual problem Net-a-Porter; Saloni hard, but perhaps the office Christmas sequins still lingered come Monday
ble second-hand finds and new jewel- is a good one: choose dress, £60 to rent, party will change that. Last week, one of morning.
lery from a range of small designers, just one standout hurrcollective.com;
plus designs of her own. You can sell piece to mix in with velvet jacket/trousers,
your own jewellery there for credit in more neutral £617/£362, frame-store.
the store, and she also offers rental. clothes. Taller com; Marni earrings,
I visited last weekend, and Poklewski Marmo’s El Pareo £140, feltlondon.com;
Koziell showed me a brilliant box full of midi skirt (£670, matches- Totême blazer, £590,
Christmas tree brooches (from £25), fashion. com), red and black net-a-porter.com
T
here was an inevitably going to Kim Jones of Dior Homme and
sombre note to the 2021 Fendi for Designer of the Year, pre-
Fashion Awards, which sented by Demi Moore and Olympian
returned to physical form at Tom Daley, Nensi Dojaka, as the BFC
the Royal Albert Hall on Foundation Award-winner and Simone
Monday evening in spite of increased Rocha for Independent British Brand,
restrictions introduced in response to while Tommy Hilfiger received the Out-
the detection of the Omicron variant of standing Achievement Award.
coronavirus in the UK. Special awards were also given in rec-
Guests, outfitted in jewel-toned velvet ognition of Leaders of Change in three
tuxedos and strapless, sequinned and categories: Environment, People and
feathered floor-length dresses with little Creativity — a mark of the greater role
heed to the freezing temperatures, activism is now playing in the fashion
seemed unperturbed. Proof of vaccina- industry. Many of the recipients in these
tion was required for entry but few categories were people of colour, who
guests donned masks once inside. until a few years ago were rarely recog-
At the orchestra level, at tables spon- nised at industry ceremonies (the black
sored by brands, in the galleries filled stylist Ib Kamara also picked up the Isa-
with reporters and students and on bella Blow Award for Fashion Creator).
stage, Virgil Abloh — the 41-year-old There was another new award for
Louis Vuitton menswear designer who Metaverse Design — presumably cre-
died on Sunday after a private two-year ated not because digital designs are in
battle with cancer — was the main, need of recognition but because of the
mournful topic of discussion. Above: among the Leaders but struggled to lift the room. He money put up by Roblox, the gaming
“Last night I spent a lot of the evening of Change award winners entered in a dramatic black and cham- company that sponsored it.
in tears,” said actor Idris Elba in an were Edward Enninful, pagne sequin dress with spiked shoul- The event is, after all, a fundraiser for
opening address, reading the poem Harris Reed, Priyanka ders — “Richard Quinn bespoke, the BFC Foundation, which provides
“When Great Trees Fall” by Maya Ange- Chopra, Gabriela Hearst, bitches,” he quipped — and platform scholarships and grants to students and
lou. It was the first of at least a dozen Kim Jones, Priya boots in black patent leather, changing young designers.
tributes to Abloh, which also came from Ahluwalia, Bethany later into a dress by London-based Ser- A worthy cause, as Abloh himself
British Vogue editor Edward Enninful, Williams, Phoebe English bian designer Roksanda Ilincic. Quinn reminded the audience in a short speech
designer Kim Jones, Kris Jenner and a and Kenya Hunt did much of the night’s celebrity dress- he had pre-recorded to receive one of
teary-eyed Tommy Hilfiger. “I lost a ing, also outfitting Kylie Minogue and the five Leaders of Change awards for
friend . . . the fashion industry, we lost her back-up dancers and Priyanka Cho- Creativity. “Part of my practice,” he
an icon,” he said. pra in bespoke bodysuits. said, “is to keep these doors open for
American actor Billy Porter, the The awards are British fashion’s future generations that I’ve been able to
event’s host, was funny and charming answer to the Baftas, with top honours open for myself.”
6 ★ † FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
Travel
T
he first one passed me as I subsequent rebuilds and gap-plugging
was barely off the motor- making a mish-mash of the walls:
way from Bologna. The stones, bricks and boulders all piled
next, as the mountains higgledy-piggledy, ruddier and warmer
came in sight. There I was, than the more austere buildings of Flor-
trying to keep one eye on the jack- ence. Alleyways tunnelled beneath first
knifing road, the other on the paint floors, threading one street to the next; a
chart of green to gold unfurling along last remaining medieval city gate sagged
the abyss, and they were all around me: tipsily towards the fields beyond. The
one, two, three, 20 motorcyclists, all rid- most modern thing in town was from
ing out to see the autumn foliage. the 1920s: the dolls’ house-sized thea-
And why not? Autumn is the best tre, its single column and two fiercely
time to visit Tuscany: the summer arched windows making a strike for art
crowds have gone, the temperatures deco in the middle of the renaissance
have yet to drop to truly biting, and if surroundings.
the sun’s out, it bathes everything in a Spooling out beyond, whichever way
gold that’s straight out of a painting you looked, were the hills, their colour
from the Sienese School. broken up only by plumes of what
And then there are the trees. Today, looked like smoke but turned out to be
the best-known parts of Tuscany are steam rising up from the magma, seven
thoroughly manicured — those perfect kilometres below ground, now drilled
fields of wheat delineated by avenues of and piped to make clean energy. A line
cypress — but originally, those famous of surprisingly beautiful power stations
rolling hills were largely forested. This, puffed away across the hills. Dante took
the Foreste Casentinesi National Park, inspiration from this land of fumaroles
Tuscany’s
straddling the border with Emilia for his Hell; Galgano Guidotti would dis-
Romagna in the north-east of the region, agree. Born in 1148 to a wealthy family
in Chiusdino, 20 minutes south of Radi-
I TA LY EMILIA-
ROMAGNA
condoli, he became a hermit on the hill
of Montesiepi in the valley below. After
forests in
San Godenzo Foreste his canonisation, a Cistercian abbey was
Casentinesi built at the foot of the hill, before being
Florence
abandoned, its roof caving in 1786.
Castagno
d’Andrea Today, tourists come from all over
Italy to see the gothic (in both senses)
TUSCANY
the fall
Arezzo Abbazia di San Galgano. Its rose window
UMBRIA was blown out and its cloister mostly
Radicondoli
Siena collapsed, and it is home to birds instead
of monks, but its walls and columns still
Chiusdino stand proud.
20 km I was staying at the Terre di San
©Mapcreator.io/©HERE Galgano agriturismo, only a field away,
so I walked around before breakfast —
just me and the birds, mist drifting
through the mountains in the distance.
is perhaps the most magnificent stretch it is laced with chilli. But this year, after tourist honeypots. For one thing, that The vines on the slope of Montesiepi
left. It’s not as big as it once was — Ren- Italy | The wooded mountains of the region’s far San Godenzo, I set off in search of more piazza is the town’s main car park. For were yellowing, but there were grapes at
aissance Florentines hacked away at it autumn colour. another, the only shop catering to tour- the abbey: bunches of them, carved on
to build coffered ceilings for their grand I found it in Radicondoli, 50 minutes ists on the two main streets is a self- to the tops of columns, along with other
new palazzos and the struts for the north and the rippling hills of the Val di Merse are west of Siena in the Val di Merse, where styled “exhibition of Radicondoli hob- florid leaves and plants. Amid the ruins,
world’s most famous cathedral dome. the golden woods were broken up by byists”: scarves, jewellery and mini it’s an eternal spring.
But today, its 142 square miles of beech, green fields and silvery olive groves. models of farm machinery. Sure, visi- Topping a hill overlooking the valley,
holm oak and chestnut trees put on a at their best in autumn, writes Julia Buckley Wild deer skittered across the fields in tors love it in summer, and there’s a Chiusdino is as pretty as Radicondoli —
display of some of Italy’s greatest col- front of me as I ate breakfast at Albergo gourmet pizza restaurant where a Mar- possibly more so, as it seems oblivious to
ours every autumn. Giogliano, a farmhouse just below the gherita costs €17 — but come November, it. Grass sprouts between medieval cob-
I was here for one colour in particular: hilltop town. it’s just you and the crotchety old men in bles; streets spiral around the hilltop.
the rich russet brown of the marroni that join them. This time, Noemi Innocenti, From Radicondoli’s Piazza San Giro- the only bar left open. Alleys lead to nowhere; staircases finish
fall to the ground in October each year. San Godenzo’s 26-year-old librarian lamo, the views of rippling hills extend And yet this is every bit as beautiful as at houses, or collapse into the tiniest of
Although in English they translate as with a doctorate in Renaissance printed as far as Volterra and San Gimignano, San Gimignano and its ilk. I walked past squares. The dinky church houses the
“chestnuts” and, to our untrained eyes, books and an encyclopedic knowledge but this is a world away from Tuscany’s houses dating back to the 13th century, saint’s skull, staring out of a modern rel-
they might look the same, locals will of marroni, introduced me to bruciati iquary shaped like the rock in which
swiftly put you straight. Compared with ’briachi (“roasted drunks”): chestnuts Galgano is said to have embedded his
regular castagne, marroni are bigger, dusted in sugar, doused in rum and set A villa fit for royalty . . . and the Roys sword, renouncing his former life (the
rounder, glossier and sweeter. on fire to create the world’s best roasted circular church on Montesiepi is built
And while chestnuts used to signify nuts. Then she took me to the forest. After a series largely stuck in “scala santa” or “sacred staircase”, around a mysterious sword hilt plunged
the poverty of mountain dwellers (the The hills around Castagno d’Andrea corporate offices and convention climbing steeply to an abandoned into the rock).
chestnut tree was nicknamed the are full of chestnut groves but higher up centres, the hit HBO series Succession, hermitage. A grove of ilex and oak As one of Tuscany’s best-known
“bread tree”, supporting those who the mountainside endless beech trees finally hits the road this weekend. In trees flanks the villa’s boundary. In the saints, Galgano’s original reliquary was
couldn’t grow grains due to the altitude) mark the entry to the national park. the penultimate episode (to be late 1600s, Siena’s famous Palio took fittingly grand: an octagonal 13th-cen-
today, a re-evaluation of marroni, Dante mentions Monte Falterona, the screened on Sunday in the US and place in these “Holy Woods”, the tury creation, gold-plated, sitting a full
including protected IGP (indicazione mountain brooding behind San Monday worldwide), the feuding Roy forest’s shadowy passages studded metre high on lions’ paws and embossed
geografica protetta) status for this area’s Godenzo, in Purgatory but in autumn it family will decamp to Italy for a with statues — Greek demi-gods, with 16 miniature scenes from his life. It
“marrone del Mugello”, is turning them is paradise. Wisps of mist wrap around glamorous wedding in a Tuscan villa. saints, mystical beasts — and is so precious that Siena nabbed it until
into cult ingredients. trunks. Leaves glow acid yellow on the And though it might look like frescoed chapels. This is where you 2015, when Chiusdino opened its own
I had come for the annual marroni branches, ochre underfoot. something from a fairytale, the villa is feel the true spirit of Cetinale, in the museum. And that isn’t even the top
celebrations in San Godenzo, a tiny We staggered up a steep path — used in fact, real — and available to rent. way mythology and nature converge draw, here: a bas-relief of a fluffy-haired
town wedged into a mountain cleft an by wartime partisans to come for sup- Villa Cetinale is old world Italy at its in a fantastical dream, vibrating Galgano thrusting his sword into the
hour north-east of Florence. Tiny it plies in Castagno d’Andrea, said Noemi most alluring, a 17th-century country with an abundance of story, danger rock by Urbano da Cortona, a student of
might be, but it packs a punch when it — to find moss-drenched boulders and home set among rolling hills seven and pleasure. Donatello, is even better. He stands, the
comes to marroni — chestnut flour from even more spectacular trees, the colour miles from Siena. It is a monument to Sophy Roberts folds of his cloak straining around the
here regularly tops the podium for seeming brighter as the light faded, the Baroque grandeur, boldly embossed button as he grips the sword, his perfect
Italy’s finest, and for the past 50 years, only sound the crunch of leaves. with the coat of arms of its creator Villa Cetinale sleeps up to 25 and costs hair shielded from the elements by a
the sangodenzini, as they call them- The next day I woke up in Castagneto, Cardinal Flavio Chigi and stuffed from €25K per week, and is available pergola of exuberantly bushy trees.
selves, have been celebrating the end of a hamlet high on the other side of San with heirlooms — a baldachin bed, via Daunt Travel (daunt-travel.com) Those Tuscan trees, again: marrone-
the harvest with an autumn blowout. Godenzo, to see sheets of mist weaving silver ornaments, a bas-relief growing, biker-attracting and, it seems,
In Castagno d’Andrea — a mountain through the valley. As the hamlet’s commemorating a visit by Grand Duke saint-protecting.
village a few miles away, and named name suggests, Castagneto’s few houses Cosimo III de’ Medici. It is now owned
after the fruit — the main street was From top: the — along with Tenuta Mazzini, the stone- by Ned Lambton, son of Antony
rammed with stalls selling raw marroni, Foreste walled converted farmhouse where I Lambton, a former Tory politician
marble-sized for roasting, almost golf Casentinesi; stayed — nestle amid chestnut groves. who resigned in 1973 after being i / D E TA I L S
ball-sized for boiling. There was mar- chestnut stalls The roads are carpeted with conker photographed in bed smoking
Julia Buckley was a guest of the San Godenzo
rone jam, marrone cakes and marrone in Castagno mush, and chestnuts cleave to the steep marijuana with two prostitutes; town council at Tenuta Mazzini
flour, the latter from fruits that are d’Andrea; hillsides, branches flailing in the wind he bought Cetinale and moved (tenutamazzini.it), which has one-bed
roasted for three months over smoking sheep graze like characters from Tolkien. here four years later. apartments from €80. Albergo Giogliano at
chestnut wood before milling. beneath The secret garden is where the Radicondoli has doubles from €70 including
People are so friendly here that on my Radicondoli; Normally at this time of year, I go to parties happen, on long tables set breakfast (no website; book via booking.com or
last visit, two locals paid for my lunch in the Abbey of the Val d’Orcia, Tuscany’s most famous among the striped shadows of cypress email hotelgiogliano@gmail.com);
Castagno d’Andrea’s sole restaurant out San Galgano landscape, for thick ribollita soup and trees. The mile-long avenue leads to a Villa Cetinale in Tuscany - Manuel Zublena Agriturismo Terre di San Galgano has doubles
from €86 including breakfast (sangalgano.it).
of shame that they hadn’t invited me to Alamy; Julia Buckley; Getty
olive oil so fresh that it tastes as though
T
Matthew Cook
here can be few more much admired by an American officer “These last two years have been like
POSTCARD perfect settings for they had invited to their home for a rollercoaster ride for the town,” says
Christmas shopping than Christmas, that Wilhelm sourced more Robert Nehr, a spokesman for the local
FROM . . . Rothenburg ob der Tauber, for the officer’s colleagues. From their tourist board. A third of the town’s
a small Franconian town response, he realised that he’d income comes from tourism but so far
BAVARIA about 85 miles south-east of Frankfurt. stumbled across a big potential market, only one hotel has gone into insolvency
When the lights twinkle on the half- and Käthe Wohlfahrt was born. and residents are striving to stay
timbered houses, good cheer echoes Thereafter the business grew upbeat. The town is decorated with fir
across the medieval cobbles of Market steadily, adding shops and trees and Christmas lights, restaurants
Square and snow dusts the red-tiled participating in more Christmas and hotels remain open, and the tourist
towers above the city gates, it is hard markets. There were blips, of course, board is pitching the idea that, rather
not to believe that all is well with the with the 9/11 attacks and the Gulf war, than focusing on the Market Square,
world. Even the migratory storks which kept international visitors away, visitors will come to relish the festive
resting on the roof ridges seem to peer but nothing has been as bad as Covid. atmosphere throughout what they are
shortsightedly down at the revellers Careful restructuring, the closure of billing as the Weihnachtsstadt, the
with a kind of benevolence, before some of the German shops and “Christmas city”.
shuffling off for warmer climes. shedding 20 staff has brought the The authorities have organised a
This year, though, there are clouds company back from the brink of “fairy tale stroll”, a sort of treasure
on the horizon. The pandemic has led just one other couple wandering nutcrackers, those highly painted bankruptcy, says spokeswoman hunt through the old town, there are
to the cancellation of the 500-year-old around the glittery, labyrinthine military-style men with levers between Felicitas Höptner. Reducing stock, organ recitals in the church of St Jakob,
Christmas market for the second year Christmas village hidden inside. Crying their shoulder blades. It has typical limiting advertising and concentrating while mulled wine, punch, hot buttered
in a row. Moreover, Rothenburg is the out for our attention are a mesmerising smokeys — incense-burning figurines on online sales has restored some waffles and bratwurst in buns are being
headquarters of a business that 25,000 product lines, with a giant — and Schwibbogen lighting arches, financial stability. But online sales are served on the terraces and inner
promotes Christmas around the world, Christmas tree in a roofed courtyard which appear in many a window at still only 8-10 per cent of turnover, so it courtyards of cafés and restaurants.
all year round, and two years of between conjoined houses. Alongside Christmas time. is footfall to Christmas markets, and “Nothing in the world, not even the
diminished festivities — not to mention all the usual baubles and reindeer there Most of these pieces originate from the return of travellers, that will finally fourth resurgence of the Covid-19
no Chinese, Japanese or American are quantities of ornaments with a the mining and woodcarving right the ship. virus, can wipe out the Christmas spirit
tourists in town — have brought more tangential Christmas connection: communities of the Erzgebirge Accordingly, the cancellation of that reigns 365 days a year in
difficult times to their front door. a pair of sparkly stilettos and some mountains, south of Dresden, in the Rothenburg’s Christmas market, Rothenburg ob der Tauber,” the tourist
That business is Käthe Wohlfahrt, dangly doughnuts; a baby monkey former East Germany. This was also announced as the festive booths were board says. So there’s hope and
one of the world’s largest Christmas fashioned from lurid glass, and a whole the original home of the founding already being set up, was a significant defiance mixed in with the aromas of
i / DETAILS retailers, with some 360 staff, shops shelf full of “rabbit friends”. couple, Wilhelm and Käthe Wohlfahrt, blow. But some of the German markets finely seasoned gingerbread and hot
across Germany and outposts in the The company has a special place for who fled to West Germany in the 1950s, outside Bavaria, and those elsewhere in spiced wine this year, hope that
Andrew Eames was a guest of Bavaria Tourism US, Belgium, Spain, France and the UK. its more iconic pieces. Its Christmas bringing with them a wooden music Europe, are keeping the faith, and Christmas — and the Christmas city —
(bavaria.by). For more on visiting Rothenburg When I push open the front door of Museum, above the shop, has a box made by Erzgebirge craftsmen. Käthe Wohlfahrt will also be present at can be saved.
see rothenburg-tourismus.de
the flagship store on Herrngasse, I find collection of typical wooden angels and One year, that music box was so seven in the US and three in Japan. Andrew Eames
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 7
Travel
Islands of my past
wrote. We see what a tiny place we cast-iron stove, fireside armchairs, a
occupy in the world. On these islands, comfy bed beneath the eaves, a view of
they have learnt that modesty without the ocean and mountains of the main-
leaving home. The islanders are land through the half door. When dusk
dwarfed by the elements. It has given came, I ate dinner outside overlooking
them the gift of humility. the channel beneath a tall sky of stars as
constellations sank towards the ocean.
At Dunquin on Slea Head, at the On the beach below, where the men of
western end of the Dingle Peninsula, a the island used to play hurling, running
small boat slipped into a narrow cleft in in and out of the sea after the ball, was a
the rocks. Timing my stride between the colony of grey seals. They made a sound
Ireland | On the windswept isles of the Atlantic coast, Stanley Stewart swells, I skipped aboard. This precari- like low keening that drifted up to the
ous little harbour, impossible in any- house from the shore below. With the
thing but calm weather, is the Blasket waves, this mournful calling was the
finds stark beauty, a sense of ‘wild clarity’ and echoes of earlier times Islands’ only link to the outside world. only sound on the empty island. By can-
A hundred years ago, a stream of dlelight, I read Tomas O’Crohan’s
nervous linguists climbed into currachs account of life here. “I have done my
I
in this harbour to brave the crossing. best to set down the character of the
n an old family album, repositories of identity, some The isolation of the Blaskets — only a people about me”, he wrote, “ . . . so
there is photograph of my essence of uncontaminated Irish- couple of miles offshore — meant that that some record of us might live after
father and me, standing ness. The opening of Yeats’ the Irish spoken here was pure and us, for the like of us will never be again.”
by a donkey loaded with famous poem captures this uncontaminated by English. This influx
peat. I must have been six. notion of an island paradise — “I of linguists created the strange impres- Though I had not been back to
I was in short trousers. It was a will arise and go now, and go to sion among the islanders that the whole Valentia for almost 40 years, it had the
family holiday on a rare trip Innisfree.” A host of writers and of the outside world was obsessed with comforting familiarity of home, which is
home to Ireland. My father is intellectuals arose and went to the learning of their language. how I thought of it. The old Royal Hotel
smiling. I can see how happy he the Aran Islands — Lady Gre- The largest of the six islands, the still presided over the waterfront in
is. On the back of the photo- gory, Patrick Pearse, Eoin Mac- Great Blasket was inhabited by a couple Knightstown, a grand dame unashamed
graph, in fading pencil, is writ- Neil, Frederick Burton, William of hundred islanders for over three cen- of her old-fashioned manners. Other
ten “Valentia Island”. Wilde, Oscar’s father, and most turies. They lived on fishing, they grew than an added espresso machine, the
When I was a child, growing notably, JM Synge, who went to potatoes, they grazed their sheep and pub at the top of the town seemed
up in Canada, Ireland was the Inis Meáin at Yeats’s urging. cattle on the rich island grass. Often
absence in our lives. Tales of the Brooding among waves, Inis they were cut off from the mainland for
sisters at Glen Farm and the Meáin is a stark elemental weeks at a time. It was not uncommon Galway
shop at the top of the hill, of the place armoured with rock. for islanders to succumb to illness due to
Ballygowan Halt, the manse in Winds whistle and moan the difficulty of getting a doctor across Inis Meáin
Ahoghill, and the wet summers through the dry stone walls the channel. The islanders’ own trage-
at Portstewart were the stories of enclosing fields of limestone dies at sea in their small currachs were a ATLANTIC Limerick
the dinner table. Every fort- where sheep graze among recurring theme, as were falls from the OCEAN
night, the Irish papers arrived, wildflowers and boulders. A relentless spectacular cliffs when children tried to
dispatched by my grandparents, and sea batters the shores. There are barely gather the eggs of sea birds. IRELAND
my parents would sit reading about the From top: the ruins of a a hundred houses scattered along the With little other entertainment, the Dunquin
news of the agricultural show in Donegal village on Great Blasket; narrow lanes of the island, served by Blasket islanders had a strong oral tradi-
or the construction works on the a photograph of Stanley one pub, one shop and one church. The tion, and the literary visitors persuaded Great Blasket Island Cork
Malone Road, as if they still lived there. Stewart as a boy with his island is ruled by its temperamental Above: a donkey takes shelter in one some of the islanders to write their Valentia Island
And in many senses, they did. father on Valentia Island weather, sweeping off the Atlantic, a of Great Blasket’s deserted cottages; memoirs, to record their lives on the 20 km
I was young when we left Ireland to constant drama, veering from tempest the winding path leading to Dunquin island. Thus began an extraordinary ©Mapcreator.io/©HERE
emigrate and my own memories of Below: Inis Meáin to benign beauty in a moment. Harbour, on the Dingle Peninsula canon of Gaelic books from the Blaskets.
home were illusive. Sometimes I won- Restaurant and Suites I was happy in the turning weather. I The memoirs of Tomas O’Crohan, Mau-
dered if I remembered Ireland at all or if Alamy
walked the island lanes. Cattle lifted Below: the Atlantic batters the cliffs rice O’Sullivan, and Peig Sayers are still unchanged. The lighthouse still stood
I merely invented it. I spent hours with their heads to watch me pass, peering on Inis Meáin; Irish music in a pub in print, still much loved, and still cen- over a tumult of crashing waves with
the old photograph albums, peering at over their stone walls. Upturned boats, on the island; sunset on Inis Meáin — tral to any study of Gaelic literature. long views across to the Dingle Penin-
landscapes more intimate, more beauti- or currachs, lay in the fields near the Alamy
Robin Flower, who translated some of sula and deep into the mountains of
ful, and far more romantic than those of shore, waiting for summer, their black these works, said of Peig Sayers, “her Kerry. Far out on the horizon stood the
southwestern Ontario. Ireland had shiny backs like hibernating beetles. On words could be written down as they reassuring pyramid silhouette of Skellig
become my lost world. I absorbed my the empty beach that runs round Ceann leave her lips, and they would have the Michel where, 1,500 years ago, Christian
parents’ nostalgia as less fortunate chil- Gainimh there were no footprints other effect of literature”. The irony of the monks read Cicero and Virgil.
dren might absorb parental anxiety or than my own, just the cuneiform mark- remote Blaskets, inhabited by a couple On the north side of Valentia, a nar-
anger. Homesickness is an Irish disease. ings of sandpipers’ feet, making their of hundred people with little schooling rowing road leads down to a small bay.
I caught it from my parents. way from the dunes to the lap of the among them, is that books became their The sheltered topography and the kind-
And so when I was 20, I set off to get waves. From the clifftops at Aill an greatest export. ness of the Gulf Stream have created a
my own Ireland. I came to Valentia, the Fhéir, I listened to the sea booming far Today the Blaskets are empty. From strange microclimate here. There are
island of the photograph, the island I did below. Troops of gannets were diving the quay I followed a grass lane through palms and bamboo and giant ferns. The
not remember. I rented a cottage. For six into the black waves and lighthouses the abandoned village. By 1953, emigra- old trees are clad with lichens and moss.
months, I walked and cycled the length winked in the gathering dusk on the tion had shrunk the population to only From the depths of the undergrowth
and breadth of this little world. I clam- coast of Galway. 22 people, and the government offered comes the sound of unseen streams.
bered over the rocks beneath the light- One evening, I fell in with a man out them houses on the mainland. In a At the end of the lane are the gates to
house where the waves threatened to for an evening stroll. In the falling light, stormy November of that year, they Glanleam House, built by the Knights of
engulf me. I went to sea with the fisher- his face was indistinct, a strange spec- climbed into their boats and left the Kerry in the 18th century. I remem-
men and drank with them in the eve- tral effect. We talked of the weather of island forever. Today Great Blasket is an bered an evening party here in the gar-
nings in the island pub. I wrote short sto- course, and then of the modern world, island of ghosts. dens, trays of drinks, voices trailing
ries, mercifully unpublished, from a i / DETA IL S and how recently it had arrived here. He Most of the old cottages have fallen among the trees, the slow descent of an
desk by a window in my little cottage, remembered the first car to come to the into ruin but three have been main- Irish twilight. A German girl had
Stanley Stewart was a guest
overlooking the channel, watching the of Tourism Ireland island, in 1962. It broke down and no tained and are available to visitors to appeared, coming up over the rocks
cloud shadows sail across the mainland (tourismireland.com). On Inis one knew how to fix it. Unimpressed stay the night, provided they bring their from the beach below the house, her
mountains towards Doulus Head. I Meáin, Inis Meáin Restaurant and with the internal combustion engine, it own food. My little house, at the top of hair wet and tangled. She was looking
could not have been happier. At the end Suites (inismeain.com) is a stylish was another seven years before anyone the ruined village, was the kind of for a light for a cigarette. In her stilted
of my stay, in the dying days of that dis- creation by one of Ireland’s leading risked investing in another. whitewashed cottage that appears on English, she asked, “Have you fire?” It
tant autumn, I was heartbroken to architects with a fine kitchen At our backs was the ancient world. Irish postcards, the kind of house I had turned out I did. The affair lasted a week
creating menus of local ingredients;
leave, for London and for real life. The silhouette of the great ringfort of dreamt of as a boy — rough flagstones, a before she set off for Dingle, but it has
doubles from €1,350 for two nights,
I have carried those memories of Val- including transfers and some meals. Dún Conor rose against the night sky. lingered, like the island itself, a lifetime.
entia with me as my parents carried The ferry to Inis Meáin takes 50 Thought to date back to the Bronze or On my last morning, the whole island
memories of the Antrim Coast and the minutes and departs from Iron Age, though no one is really sure, it glistened with dew, like a newborn
villages of County Down. And now, dec- Rossaveal (aranislandferries.com). is one of the grandest buildings in the world. A westerly had blown through in
ades on, I wanted to return, to redis- On Great Blasket, there are three west of Ireland, its curving dry stone the night. Whitecaps scudded towards
cover not just the island I had loved, but houses to rent for overnight stays, walls 20ft thick in places. The islanders Beginish, shadows raced one another
all those western islands. All travel is a from €180 per night for two people; traditionally believed it was inhabited across the mountains of Dingle, and
kind of quest, though what you are look- see greatblasketisland.net. The by a cavalcade of spirits, by sprites and small birds flew up from the heather
ing for and what you find rarely coin- same company can arrange the banshees and fairies, who fly about the and tumbled away in the wind.
boat from Dunquin, which takes 20
cide. I probably hoped, travelling to Val- island to unsettle the plans of humans. I “We were imbued with the sound of
minutes, and day trips from Dingle.
entia in October, that I might glimpse would say there are a few that are still the wind . . . ”, O’Crohan wrote, “beat-
my young self coming round a bend in On Valentia, the Royal Hotel believing that, the man laughed. ing in our ears every morning, clearing
(royalvalentia.ie) is a grand old
the Glanleam road. But in the end, it was On the way back to my lodgings, I our brains and rinsing the dust from
establishment at the heart of
really Ireland itself that I was chasing Knightstown; doubles from about stopped in at the pub, which hummed our skulls.”
across Kerry and Galway. €110. Valentia is linked by bridge to with the sibilant susurrus of Gaelic. A This is why I had come. I wanted the
The seas off the west coast of Ireland the mainland town of Portmagee, or man sang a traditional air so beautiful it wind, I wanted that tumultuous hum-
are scattered with islands whose there is a car ferry between left me tearful. Afterwards the room bling weather, I wanted to rinse the dust
remoteness lends them both romance Knightstown and Reenard Point, was silent but for the wind banging at from my brain, so that I could savour
and a curious authority. For generations which takes about 10 minutes (see the door. again the strange wild clarity of these
valentiaisland.ie for details).
of Irish writers and artists, they became Travel makes one modest, Flaubert islands, and of my time there.
8 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
A
n insurance worker “workism”, a kind of new religion deify-
recently described to me ing our professional identity to the det-
his lockdown epiphany: he riment of everything else.
loved spending time with Whether the past can tell us anything
his two young children dur- about the future of the office is an issue
ing the working week. So he adjusted his that Dutch social historian Jan Lucassen
hours; now, he starts early so that he can tackles in his weighty tome, The Story of
pick them up from nursery, make din- Work. It puts our current evaluation of
ner and put them to bed. “As bad as the white-collar work in context: 700,000
pandemic has been,” he said, “it’s forced years of it. This is a huge book, spanning
us to think of life in different ways.” every continent and subjects as wide-
He is far from being the only one re- ranging as hunter-gatherers, slavery
evaluating work. In China, there are and Zoom workers.
flickers of a social movement called the Under Lucassen’s scrutiny comes “all
tang ping, or “lying flat”, in which young human pursuits apart from free time or
professionals denounce being cogs in leisure”. He quotes the work of Ameri-
the engine of the economy, rejecting can sociologists Charles and Chris Tilly
high-stress work for a slower life. to point out that “prior to the 20th cen-
In the US, the “Great Resignation” tury, a vast majority of the world’s work-
describes the phenomenon of employ- ers performed the bulk of their work in
ees quitting jobs for better pay or better other settings than salaried jobs as we
conditions — or leaving the labour mar- know them today.” It means that Lucas-
ket entirely, to retire — a trend observed sen pays attention to unpaid domestic
elsewhere too. After months of upheav- work, including, in the 20th century, the
als and clinging on to jobs because any housewife. The history of work, he
work was better than unemployment, argues, is not just about competition but
people are voting with their feet. collaboration — even solitary “Robinson
These are challenging times for Crusoe found his Friday”, he writes.
employers. Some are scrambling to From 1800 onwards, the story
recruit workers to plug labour shortages becomes more familiar as the working
in industries such as driving heavy world is driven towards greater homo-
goods vehicles. Others are resorting to a geneity, propelled by the industrial rev-
mixture of coercion and perks to get
workers vaccinated — testing the
boundaries between public health and
The book will chime with
private intrusion — to return to the readers who feel we are
office, or deciding to scrap it entirely in
favour of remote-first policies.
suffering from ‘workism’,
Several companies — Netflix, for a kind of religion deifying
example — are also trying to contain
employee social and political activism
our professional identity
agitating for changes to corporate cul- to the detriment of all else
ture. Black Lives Matter protests have
forced chief executives to pledge to
improve diversity. olution, and the increasing numbers of
The pandemic has illuminated prob- Essay | Presenteeism, the ‘Big Resignation’ and the shift to WFH — one novel and two searching wage labourers — which, in turn,
lems in the workforce and — for better prompt a rise in management science.
or worse — has accelerated changes in Surveying the past two centuries, Lucas-
working practices. A McKinsey non-fiction books shine a spotlight on dramatic changes in working culture. By Emma Jacobs sen writes: “Never before have so many
report last year found two-thirds of sen- people arranged their work in a similar
Work, in progress
ior executives surveyed “saying they way. Never before have they attempted
were stepping up investment in auto- to such a degree to improve their labour
mation and AI [artificial intelligence] relations and labour circumstances col-
either somewhat or significantly”, lectively as well as individually.”
meaning that workers are liberated History warns us against neat trium-
from the dreariest or most hazardous phalism when it comes to working
tasks to focus on quality jobs, or alterna- trends. Unfree labour declined sharply
tively, made unemployed. in the 19th century, shepherded by the
After so much upheaval in the past 20 end of slavery (Britain’s Abolition Act of
months, organisations have an opportu- 1833, and the US’s 13th Amendment in
nity to create a new work environment 1865), as well as the emancipation of
and patterns. Three new books show the Cara Phillips of Common- by Charlie Warzel and Anne Helen ising to improve your sex life). It will had seen no changes to email patterns Russian serfs in 1861. It then reappeared
horrors and joys of work in the past, as Bond in the company’s Petersen. The term “LARPing your job” also allow the headspace, they argue, to since the law came in 2017. It has not under Stalin, Hitler, Mao and Pol Pot —
well as present — and what this might Manhattan office last was coined in 2015 by writer John Her- give people — counter-intuitively — the stopped Portugal from recently setting “and let us not forget the Kim dynasty in
mean for the future. month with her dog, man, following Slack’s popularity as a means to “increase worker solidarity”. out a similar policy. North Korea today”. There are also
Modern work culture in all its idiocy is Pepper, adopted during replacement for email in the tech and They know of what they speak: the The authors want greater attention “fluctuations in the extent to which the
laid bare in Several People Are Typing, a the pandemic media industries. LARPing describes a authors — a couple — left office jobs paid to management and also an end to ideal of the welfare state is embraced”;
debut novel by Calvin Kasulke. It tells Jeenah Moon/New York Times/ Redux / Eyevine
kind of digital performative working, (Warzel at The New York Times and the fetishisation of start-up culture, recent furlough payments by the UK
the story of Gerald, a New York PR exec- done to demonstrate a worker’s com- Petersen at BuzzFeed) to work from which emphasises long hours, disrup- and stimulus cheques in the US prior to
utive, whose thoughts merge overnight mitment to the job. “Slack is where peo- their home in Montana. They touch on tion and inattention to human the pandemic would have previously
with the company’s internal Slack chan- ple make jokes and register their pres- some fascinating studies, including resources processes. On informal work- “seemed absolutely unthinkable”.
nel, while his comatose body lays prone ence . . . as much for self-justification as work by Intel technologist Melissa ing cultures, they cite comedian Kevin Like Warzel and Petersen, Lucassen
on the sofa at home. (Literally, lying for the completion of actual goals,” the Gregg on the proliferation of self- Farzad’s quip that “if an employer ever believes we now have an opportunity to
flat.) His co-workers think he can’t be authors write. optimisation advice, notably in business says, ‘we’re like family here’ what they shape our working lives, and that “our
bothered to make it into the office but The old “nine-to-five” model of books, during downturns. They also ref- mean is they’re going to ruin you psy- long past” should show us we have the
his manager is unfazed — in fact, he is organising white-collar work in offices erence examples of companies experi- chologically”. capacity to find “meaning, co-operation
thrilled. Stuck inside the software with (and beyond) is now clearly redundant. menting with shorter working weeks It’s a sentiment mirrored in Kasulke’s [and] fairness” from our work — though
no distractions, Gerald’s performance This book argues that we must “liberate (Buffer), asynchronous workforces novel, where one worker likens the he offers few practical solutions.
has never been better. ourselves from the most toxic, alienat- (GitLab) and transparency, including organisation to a cult with a pay cheque. Such a broad sweep of history is hum-
This novel, written as a series of Slack ing and frustrating aspects of office making minutes from all meetings “We’re not employees, we’re a ‘team’. bling. It is also a reminder at moments
messages, skewers corporate language Out of Office: work. Not just by shifting the location including leaders’ fully accessible That’s only two notches away from just when work feels all-consuming that
and provides a snapshot of working lives The Big Problem and where the work is completed but also (Ultranauts). Trust, the pair argue, calling us ‘acolytes’ . . . And the stuff we there is a world outside the factory or
mediated by technology, moving Bigger Promise of by rethinking the work we do and the allows employees to do their actual job supposedly devote ourselves to, like office that deserves attention, as the
between home and the office. There’s Working from Home time we allot to it. Work . . . should rather than wasting it on LARPing. ‘innovation’ or ‘influence’ or ‘engage- insurance worker who wanted to spend
also a menacing hint of the future when by Charlie Warzel cease to be the primary organising fac- Warzel and Petersen are clear, how- ment’ . . . how is that any different from more time with his kids realised.
the AI Slackbot comes to life and tries to and Anne Helen Petersen tor within [our lives]: the primary ever, that homeworking is not a pana- telling everyone you’re a Prophet of the I kept returning to the wistful thought
make sense of the physical world. Knopf $27/Scribe £14.99, 272 pages source of friendship, or personal worth, cea; such policies should be drawn up in Coming Storm?” articulated by Kasulke in Several People
Pleased by the position of its desk, it or community.” consultation with employees rather Warzel and Petersen offer good and Are Typing that despite our best efforts
remarks, “it’s right next to the window! The Story of Work: A New This is an impassioned plea for than leaving it to an individual to set sensible advice. Both are authors of to justify our jobs, a great deal of white-
Which is where we keep the sunsets!” In History of Humankind remote working — though Warzel and boundaries that only a “privileged” few widely read newsletters and have a collar work turns out to be ephemeral,
another, it wrestles with feelings: “I by Jan Lucassen Petersen concede that it will often be will be able to implement. They cite the knack for snappy phrases. With so noting that “so much goes missing
don’t understand those emoticons!” Yale University Press £25, 544 pages mixed with a component of office time French rules on banning emails out of much experimentation and workplaces online”: without tangible proof “maybe
The jobs in this story could be as part of a hybrid working pattern. It office hours, which could prove coun- in flux, this reads very much as a work- the email you thought you read . . .
described as LARPing — Live Action Several People Are Typing will not only make you happier and terproductive for those employees who in-process guide. As with Petersen’s pre- wasn’t real”.
Role Playing — a phenomenon high- by Calvin Kasulke healthier, but a better friend, member favour flexibility. In any case, one sur- vious book on burnout, Out of Office
lighted in Out of Office: The Big Problem Doubleday $24/ of your local community and more vey they cite — using an admittedly caters to readers who have bought into Emma Jacobs is the FT’s
and Bigger Promise of Working From Home Hodder £12.99, 256 pages equal partner (they stop short of prom- small sample — found that 97 per cent the idea that we are suffering from work & careers columnist
F
Cambridge university, tasks himself Just like a real rainbow, though, an
ew colours have associations with unravelling. abundance of colour masks something
more natural to us than green: “Most of us know what red and blue of a lack of substance. The overarching
the mere thought of the hue looks like, just as we know what a narratives of each chapter — purple as a
calls to mind plants, gardens, minute or an hour feels like,” he marker for the “Age of Revolution”, the
the environment and even life writes. “But we are much less confi- Our perceptions of the colour have flawed association of whiteness and
itself. Ancient Egyptians would leave dent about explaining them.” His book been similarly split: Cicero mocked the purity — end up overshadowed by diver-
green amulets in the tombs of loved ones splits itself across seven differently statesman Publius Vatinius for daring to sions and insufficiently explored, while
in the hope of offering them vitality, shaded chapters, each of which traces wear a dark toga pulla to a funeral feast, specific reflections (“Black is the black
while a young David Nash had misgivings an intriguing if meandering arc while Japan’s affinity for the shade was sheep of colour”) can be unconvincing.
about painting a colour so organic that it through the history, philosophy and such that on its introduction in the Halfway through The World According
“just doesn’t look right on a canvas”. science of a different colour. 1960s, colour television had to be to Colour, the art historian asks: “How
But as James Fox points out early on Black, for example, is “no less beauti- named “natural television”, as viewers many meanings can a colour have
in The World According to Colour, there is ful, and no less varied, than any other already interpreted the monochrome before it ceases to have meaning?” It is
a fraud at the heart of our most basic colour”, in Fox’s opinion. Though as he images as a kind of colour. not an unfair question, given the kalei-
observations. Leaves are only “green” reveals, it is not so much a colour as an Fox’s fondness for this sort of miscel- doscopic complexity of a phenomenon
because it is the one part of light that absence of one, visible to us by virtue of lany leads down some wonderful rabbit that we often take for granted. But in a
they reflect, not absorb. Colour is inher- the light surrounding it. Just as a hole is holes — from the prevalence of colours book itself inclined towards the multi-
ently deceptive, since we define an defined by the material around it, black, across Shakespeare’s collected works plicity of our interpretations of colour, it
object’s colour not by the wavelengths too, is the result of contrast. (green appears three times as often as is perhaps a dangerous one to pose.
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 9
Books
Lowland voices
Two celebrated Dutch authors grapple in different
ways with the future of Europe. By Boyd Tonkin
D
that beach “the child was too
uring the terrible heavy for Europe. Europe does not
“hunger winter” of exist, so it could not lift that child.”
1944-45, famine Does the redemptive Europe
killed thousands in imagined by war-scarred states-
the German-occupied men and authors really exist?
Netherlands. Cees Nooteboom Chatty, lively, informative, Mak
remembers his father “on a seagull gives his high-minded but keen-
hunt”, trying to catch birds for eyed pundit’s answer: a cautious
food. His father died in a British “yes”, as he swings between
bombing raid. Nooteboom also breathless digests of events, fla-
recalls “a dead English pilot hang- voursome first-person reportage
ing from his parachute”: strange, and interview transcripts. He talks
unforgettable fruit. “I am still a to farmers, bankers, shopkeepers,
child of the war, and after that the seafarers and artists from Reykja-
cold war,” the eminent novelist vik to Wigan, Gdansk to his home
and travel writer — now 88 — village in Friesland.
reflects in 533: A Book of Days. Despite austerity, the euro deba-
Henry Kissinger in talks with Egypt’s President Anwar Sadat, vice-president Hosni Mubarak and foreign minister Ismail Fahmi in August 1975 — Getty Images Born in the first full year of cle, the migrant emergency and
peace, his compatriot Geert Mak the rise of populism with its “army
A
kind”. This, along with Nixon’s anti- ries of suffering entrenched a they threw it all away’
s the Israeli-Arab Yom Kip- Master of the struggle with such action over four Semitism, obliged Kissinger “to disguise European idealism that persists.
pur war unfolded in 1973, an Game: Henry years. All this happened in three weeks. his support for Israel because he was These newly translated works by
Australian student nerv- Kissinger and Indyk’s book covers the eight-year under suspicion from the very begin- two of the country’s leading post- the “European” and “democrat” in
ously observed the conflict the Art of span of Kissinger’s Middle East engage- ning”, writes Indyk. Kissinger even war writers belong to very differ- his head “quarrelling, repeatedly”.
from a kibbutz near Gaza. Middle East ment. It is both a painstaking history of fooled the Israelis. At one point, he was ent genres. Somehow, they talk to But the disaster of Brexit con-
Every night, he listened to BBC and Voice Diplomacy a period in which the US supplanted the greeted by protesters in Tel Aviv with each other about the fragile vision firms the dead-end of nativist pop-
of America broadcasts about the frantic by Martin Indyk USSR as the region’s chief outside power, banners saying, “Hitler spared you to of a shared European home that ulism. The British had a golden
shuttling of Henry Kissinger, America’s Knopf $30/£38 and a deeper reflection on Kissinger’s finish the job”, “court Jew” and “Kapo”. seems (in Nooteboom’s words) deal, a Brussels informant says,
leading diplomat, from Moscow to Cairo 672 pages diplomatic philosophy. Compared with today’s heavily law- “broken before it was truly whole”. “and they threw it all away”. Still,
and Jerusalem and back again in his At an abstract level, Kissinger’s yered protocols, Kissinger’s style and Nooteboom’s is a lyrical, medi- Mak flays the smug elites, hears
quest to broker a ceasefire. approach meant applying the statecraft methods seem outlandish. When the tative “book of days” inspired by the quiet fury of the left-behind
That young Australian, Martin Indyk, of Klemens von Metternich and Lord situation dictated, he perfected the art the house and garden he has lov- and warns that, even back in his
went on to become a US citizen who All of which left the geopolitical field Castlereagh, architects of the 1815 Con- of creating the illusion of action — ingly tended over decades on the village, the mood has darkened.
later served as a Middle East adviser to wide open to Kissinger, who was both gress of Vienna, which created a Euro- “motion without movement”, as he island of Menorca, with excursions Then, at the last gasp, the EU’s
Bill Clinton, America’s ambassador to Nixon’s secretary of state and national pean “equilibrium”, or balance of power, called it. He would cajole Israel’s Golda to the snowbound German village belated Covid recovery package
Israel, and Barack Obama’s Israel-Pales- security adviser and thus already some- upheld by great power “legitimacy” that Meir to acquiesce to one thing and where he spends winter. Mak’s is a arrives to prove the bloc “tougher
tinian envoy — a Sisyphean career that thing of a plenipotentiary. Egypt’s Sadat to something else and bulky travelogue that crosses than anyone expected”.
left him sceptical of whether outsiders
could impose grand bargains on the
The battle between the Israeli and
Egyptian armies in the Sinai desert was
Kissinger’s versatility made present each as authentic initiatives to
the other. “Policy may be based on
Europe — from Arctic Norway, on
Putin’s doorstep, to refugee-
Instinctively cosmopolitan, Mak
sweeps over his home continent in
Middle East. no mere sideshow: it was the hottest him inherently conniving. knowledge,” wrote Kissinger in his crowded Samos — to discover what a colourful, convivial sprawl well
Along the way, Indyk grew to appreci-
ate the more gradualist — though far
flashpoint in the US-Soviet cold war. In
that same period, Kissinger negotiated a
By today’s standards, his memoirs, “but its conduct is an art”.
Though Indyk is an admirer, he
became of that dream of peace and
unity since 2000.
captured in Liz Waters’ pacy trans-
lation. Nooteboom gazes hard at
showier — approach practised by Kiss- ceasefire outline with Soviet leader Leo- methods were outlandish explores flaws in Kissinger’s approach. Mak writes as a roving reporter- his small patch of earth in a bejew-
inger in the 1970s. The result is this mag- nid Brezhnev, talking in the Kremlin Among these is a tendency, in his quest historian (this book revisits the elled prose mosaic of plants, crea-
isterial 570-page account of one of the until the small hours, returned to the US for order through hierarchy, to miss the format of his 2004 bestseller In tures, books and memories, ele-
most gripping diplomatic annals in the next day with a UN resolution that lasted a century. It meant avoiding the potency of non-state actors such as the Europe); Nooteboom as a close-up gantly rendered by Laura Watkin-
modern history. was passed that same night, and failed pitfalls of US president Woodrow Wil- Palestinian Liberation Organisation. philosophical observer who wants son. This Mediterranean refuge,
Indyk’s title, Master of the Game, to persuade Saudi Arabia’s King Faisal to son, whose Treaty of Versailles 104 Kissinger’s incrementalism also to contemplate mortality, and cel- and the open borders that let him
should not necessarily be seen as a pane- hold off on an Arab oil embargo. years later sowed the seeds of the 20th meant that he missed opportunities. It ebrate cacti, tortoises and donkeys enjoy it, help cleanse a European
gyric to Kissinger. At key moments dur- In the midst of all this, Kissinger was century’s next horrific war. was President Jimmy Carter, and his but finds that “my garden is in the life “smeared with the filth of war”
ing the crisis, that description was controversially awarded the Nobel To Kissinger, peace literally meant own Kissinger-style national security world, whether I like it or not”. while “surrounded by ghosts”
almost literally correct. In the midst of Peace Prize jointly with Le Duc Tho, for “absence of war”. To his more idealistic adviser, Zbigniew Brzezinski, who Europe’s fate through the years from the past. Perhaps by messen-
Kissinger’s shuttle diplomacy, Richard the deal they had struck to end the Viet- US successors — many of whom secured the Camp David agreement after 9/11 — financial meltdowns, gers from the future too, as Noote-
Nixon, the US’s besieged president, lost nam war. The moment of peak drama employed Indyk — peace meant striving between Egypt and Israel. Given Kiss- migrant influxes, climate crises, boom sweats through “the hottest
his vice-president Spiro Agnew to cor- was when Kissinger put US forces on for grand bargains that have so far inger’s cold war notoriety — the bomb- populist eruptions, Brexit and (in summer I have ever experienced”.
ruption charges, fired Watergate special Defcon 3 — the highest state of peace- failed. Kissinger’s goal was not to reach a ing of Cambodia, for example, or the a coda) Covid — occupies Mak’s For his part, Mak registers that,
prosecutor Archibald Cox, as well as the time nuclear alert — after the Soviets dramatic breakthrough, but to wear CIA-backed coup in Chile — the virtuosi- centre stage. With Nooteboom, it in Utrecht “the temperature
US attorney-general and his deputy in had threatened to send ground forces to Israel’s Arab neighbours down until ties laid out in Master of the Game risk creeps in slyly from the wings. reached 40 degrees”. “How far did
the infamous “Saturday night massa- the Middle East as the ceasefire wob- they accepted its existence. This being discounted. That would be a pity. Similar hopes and fears surface. human solidarity stretch?” Mak
cre”, and retreated for long spells to his bled. Indyk’s research reveals that involved seemingly contradictory As we enter what threatens to be a tur- Both books take the 2015 photo- asks. Today, he shows, it scarcely
upstairs White House quarters. Within Nixon was almost certainly not con- moves. At one point, Kissinger organ- bulent decade, the lessons of the 1970s graph of the drowned three-year- reaches Europe’s outer edges.
10 days, the US Congress launched the sulted before this late evening escala- ised a massive airlift of US arms supplies seem pressingly relevant. old Syrian refugee Alan Kurdi as a Tomorrow, it may need to span the
impeachment that would culminate in tion. He was upstairs and possibly in his to Israel; once the battle had turned, symbol of the EU’s failure to rise, whole roasting globe.
Nixon’s resignation in August 1974. cups. Most US secretaries of state would Kissinger did everything possible to pre- Edward Luce is the FT’s US national editor
P
912 pages
pavement). composer, lyricist, instrumentalist and Americanisms by singing “yes, yes, recur in his work, alongside the roman-
aul McCartney is one of the But the book doesn’t back up the opti- singer. There’s a wonderful photo of yes,” is a far more telling snapshot of tic sunniness that Lennon mocked dur-
most successful songwriters mistic resemblances made in the intro- them as teenage doppelgängers the song’s creation. He and Lennon ing post-Beatles hostilities. McCartney
ever — but is he a good lyri- duction by its editor, the poet Paul Mul- hunched over guitars in the front room used to write songs in about three riposted by writing a song called “Silly
cist? “Distractions/Like but- doon, to WB Yeats, Lord Byron and of McCartney’s Liverpool terraced Love Songs”.
terflies are buzzing/Round McCartney’s “fellow lyricist” William non’s philosophy in the early days of The home in 1962 writing “I Saw Her Stand- He is unrevealing about his vocal style
my head,” from his solo song “Distrac- Wordsworth. Beatles. How lyrics are heard sets their ing There”. A left-handed guitarist to (“I’ve never really thought much about
tions”, is a distractingly bad description Next to these purported literary fore- meaning. The way “love” is stretched the right-handed Lennon, McCartney my voice”), although he shares hit-
that makes butterflies buzz for no better bears, McCartney’s couplet in “Here out in McCartney’s vocal for “Can’t Buy likens their pairing to mirror images. maker tips (“A shout is always a good
reason than alliteration. Today” about John Lennon’s murder — Me Love”, while “money” is uttered at As shown by Peter Jackson’s new Get song opener”). The closest he comes to
“Women scream and run around/To “I still remember how it was before/And pace, neatly illustrates the song’s mes- Back documentary, their telepathic self-analysis is linking his songs’ positiv-
dance upon the battleground/Like wild I am holding back the tears no more” — sage. It was written in 1964 in the George closeness persisted until the very end of ity and sentiment to his mother’s death
demented horses,” are lines from is doggerel. It forcibly glues together a V luxury hotel in Paris, a city to which The Beatles. from cancer when he was 14, just before
another solo outing, “House of Wax”. constant memory (“I still remember”) McCartney and Lennon had hitchhiked True to the one-upmanship that also he wrote “I Lost My Little Girl”. The last
“The song itself gets quite dramatic,” with a contradictory rush of feeling (“I only a few years previously. What shaped their partnership, McCartney song in the book is “Your Mother Should
McCartney notes with understatement am holding back the tears no more”). money could buy was at the forefront of presents himself as the bookish one, an Know”, while the final photo shows
in The Lyrics. But “Here Today” shouldn’t be judged their minds. avid reader and theatregoer armed with McCartney as a parent, holding the
This two-volume doorstopper with a as literature. Verses that read mala- The Lyrics abounds in contextual an English A-level (“John never had hand of a daughter when she was a child.
hefty price tag collects lyrics from 154 droitly on the page are transformed into detail such as that. Each of the 154 songs anything like my interest in litera- Despite its implausible literary preten-
songs spanning McCartney’s career. a moving tribute to Lennon when McCa- is accompanied by breezy passages of ture”). Strenuous efforts are made to sions, The Lyrics is a rewarding portrait
They range from his earliest, “I Lost My rtney sings “Here Today”. reminiscence, based on conversations crowbar literary influences into place. of an exceptional songwriter.
Little Girl”, written when he was 14, to “Nobody listens to the words. It’s just with Muldoon. The text is accompanied LP Hartley’s novel The Go-Between,
last year’s album McCartney III, released the sound of the song,” was his and Len- by beautifully reproduced illustrations, which McCartney isn’t sure he had Paul McCartney in Liverpool, 1963 Ludovic Hunter-Tilney is the FT’s pop critic
10 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
Books
The consequences
of an idle passion
This story of a late Victorian Manchester family sings with
period detail but is perhaps too elegant. By Catherine Taylor
B
through her work for the poor with a
y 1901 the population of Man- charitable mission which leads to her
chester had swollen to about support for the Suffragette cause; Eloise
700,000 people: the Indus- at art school.
trial Revolution and the enor- After Tabitha is arrested at a sponta-
Tom Straw
mous growth of the cotton neous demonstration, Eloise finds an
W A messianic marvel
industry throughout the 19th century outlet for her vocation in Paris and
ith a title like The Books transformed this once market town into America, eventually becoming part of a
of Jacob, Olga Tokarc- England’s second city. Workers were scandalous and vaguely recognisable
zuk’s latest offering needed to make the mill and factory Bohemian set, the target of much joyous
could easily be taken for owners wealthy, and the darker side of rib-tickling from O’Riordan. An outré
a work of modern-day expansion was the rapid increase in weekend house party in Cornwall is
apocrypha. So outlandish and outra- urban poverty and squalid housing. described in delicious detail:
geously implausible is the story Tokarc- Writers from Elizabeth Gaskell to “‘Mr Stock here is another of Miss
zuk tells that the novel strains at the Polish Nobel-winner Olga Tokarczuk’s magnum opus is a dazzling Sarah Moss have written about Man- Montana’s protégés,’ said Eloise. Valen-
limits of credibility. Yet while it deals in chester’s Victorian working class, and tin Stock gave a shallow bow, turning
myriad legends and parables, in hearsay new middle class, in books such as Mary the mallet upside down, using it to rest
and heresy, the strange and scandalous achievement, aided by a deft English translation, finds Bryan Karetnyk Barton and Bodies of Light. Now Adam his weight on, suddenly dandyish. ‘Mr
story of the eponymous “messiah” Jacob O’Riordan, in his first novel, The Falling
Frank — however bizarre it may seem — Thread, examines the fortunes of one The most poignant parts of
is one of astonishing historical fact. Manchester family from 1890 until the
Written over six years and spanning turns, now denounced by his detractors personality but are brought face to face start of the first world war, as it shapes the novel are its prologue
more than 900 pages, The Books of Jacob as a heretic, now revered by his acolytes with their desperate need for transcend- or seeks to ignore its part in the chang- and epilogue, transmissions
is Tokarczuk’s ninth book and, in terms as the Messiah. He makes it his mission ence and with all the ennoblement and ing social strata.
of both scope and scale, her most ambi- to manifest his heterodox beliefs and to violence engendered by faith. O’Riordan is an award-winning poet from the trenches
tious work to date. Published in Polish upend conventional notions of good and For all its forbidding weight, the writ- who in 2017 published an acclaimed
in 2014, it was this dense, sprawling evil, entreating the increasingly fervent ing remains fluid and engaging, often short fiction collection titled The Burn-
novel, now brought into English by throngs of his disciples to strange acts, poetic. None of this, it must be said, ing Ground. Those stories, with settings Stock began life as a Futurist but is now
International Booker-winning transla- commanding their iniquity so as to could have been possible without the ranging from the sprawling metropolis an avowed Neoprimitive.’ ‘I’m not sure
tor Jennifer Croft, that the Nobel Prize flood the world with sin and thereby to Herculean efforts of Tokarczuk’s of Los Angeles to the surrounding what either of those are,’ said Tabitha,
committee dubbed her “magnum hasten the end of time. Shrouded in dis- translator. A text as thorny and arcane desert landscape, flare with the bright ‘but it sounds a definite improvement.’”
opus”. And, by Tokarczuk’s own admis- repute, his is truly a “religion of the end as this could easily become overwrought light of California. Charles, whose marriage is purely one
sion, this “morose but unintentionally The Books of Jacob of days, all three religions [ . . . ] braided and leaden in translation; anglophone With his new novel, O’Riordan, who of necessity, humiliates himself with an
absurd comedy” has been a lifetime in by Olga Tokarczuk, into one”. readers ought to be especially grateful was born in Manchester in 1982, has infatuation with a married woman more
the making. translated by Jennifer Croft Charismatic and with more than a to Croft, who handles Tokarczuk’s moved closer to home, albeit the city of practised than he at deception. The faint
Marrying a vast array of historical Fitzcarraldo Editions £20 dash of psychopathy, Frank is an end- writing with the deft touch of an expert, more than a century ago: “The hosts of noise of approaching war chimes with
sources with modern scholarship and 928 pages lessly fascinating character study, and it and pulls off the almost miraculous feat clerks and cashiers, wire workers, wood the coming of age of Charles’s only child,
daring literary invention, The Books of is easy to see why he is deserving of such of recreating a text in which, amid the carvers, spinners of worsted yarns. All Claude; the most poignant parts of the
Jacob is an amalgam of vignettes and generous novelistic treatment. “He’s a English, words of Polish, Hebrew, Latin living now in the smoke-racked city, novel are its prologue and epilogue,
voices, histories and fragments, maps trickster,” Tokarczuk has said of him, “a and Turkish jostle against one another lives indivisible from their labour; direct transmissions from the trenches.
and illustrations. It charts the fantastic- charmer and a fraud.” But he is also an naturally. scraping, cutting, scratching, hammer- O’Riordan’s prose is exquisite, and his
sounding journey of the real-life figure abiding mystery, a man of such phe- Is The Books of Jacob a work of apocry- ing their meagre or immodest livings, tone cool and ironic, while subtly draw-
of Frank, a merchant who claimed to be nomenal, disturbing ambivalence that pha? Like Frank himself, it is ultimately for it seems only to allow the two.” ing attention to the barriers of class,
a reincarnation of the 17th-century he confounds neat description. all things to all men — and women. The The Falling Thread begins with a seduc- gender and sexuality. His chiming of
Kabbalist Sabbatai Tzvi, and his entou- Throughout the book, we are never per- book is at once apocryphal, heretical, tion during the hot, languid summer of nature with period detail is exact: “New
rage of “true believers” across 18th-cen- mitted to enter his thoughts, viewing fictional, historical and, in the most pro- 1890. Charles Wright, only son of a tex- leaves, the colour of absinthe, cast a
tury Europe, from the borderlands him only through the eyes and souls of found sense, true. As Tokarczuk herself tile factory owner, and amateur natural- faint green light through the room.”
between present-day Poland and those who encounter him. writes in the book’s hypertrophied sub- ist — his sole real interest — is bored, The novel’s main impression is one of
Ukraine to the hearts of the Ottoman While Tokarczuk’s recreation of a title (playfully echoing that of the true- enduring the “long vac” from Cam- stultifying disappointment and the
and Habsburg empires. (At the height of Europe grappling with the Enlighten- to-life Father Chmielowski’s 18th-cen- bridge university. When his plans to character of Hettie, so carefully drawn
his influence, Frank, “cloaked in the ment is perhaps the work’s most imme- tury encyclopedia New Athens) it is a gift travel to the Swiss Alps are scuppered, at the beginning, becomes quickly
aura of a Jewish mystic”, inveigled his diately dazzling achievement, what offered up “that the wise might have it he engineers a pursuit of his younger sis- effaced. Likewise, pompous Charles is
way into the good graces of no less than equals this, as one immersive page gives for a record, that my compatriots ters’ new governess, Hettie. The conse- not so much obnoxious as a man thrust
Emperor Joseph II.) way to the next, is the verisimilitude reflect, laypersons gain some under- quences of this idle passion will set the into a position he did not wish to under-
The five or so decades that transpire and depth of her characters — rabbis, standing and melancholy souls obtain mood for the rest of the book. take; and while the growing sense of
between the covers of this capacious bishops, peasants, rulers, even an old some slight enjoyment”. The Books of O’Riordan moves the narrative along doom is, from a position of hindsight,
novel take in the rise and fall of Frank. woman trapped between this life and Jacob is a remarkable undertaking on in five or 10-year periods, up to 1913. inevitable, this well-executed family
Visited by ecstatic visions, he professes the hereafter. Through them, we not the grandest of scales; it is also one that The Wright parents — solid unap- portrait is, overall, almost too elegant,
Islam, Judaism and Christianity by only witness Frank’s burgeoning cult of lives up to its billing. proachable father, fussy mother with an too bloodless.
T
£16.99, 368
Thursday Murder Club and The Man fact that Adam LeBor is the FT’s Floyd novel, and it takes on a vari- pages tic edge that the German one —
Who Died Twice, jointly accruing thriller critic precluded a review ety of challenging issues, but he outline of Sasa Sta- Herkunft, meaning “origin” —
£3.36m to date) has had the coun- of his own book — particularly Connelly has never shied away nisic’s third novel, doesn’t. Add a few words before
terintuitive effect of driving inter- GENRE ROUND-UP when Dohany Street (Head of from such things, always dealing Where You Come “Where You Come From” and it
est in the entire genre. Nielsen Zeus, £18.99) is such a sure- with them in a nuanced and bal- From, is as follows: a becomes a xenophobic slur.
BookScan UK figures from March CRIME FICTION footed piece. anced fashion. family from Viseg- on March 7 1978,” writes Stanisic. But what happens to your sense
to October this year indicated We are once again in the com- Finally, three snapshots dem- rad, Bosnia, is displaced by the “It seemed like nothing had hap- of home when it’s no longer there?
that the crime/thriller category pany of LeBor’s sharp-witted onstrating how varied is the cur- Yugoslav war. In episodic frag- pened since then, like my biogra- “I was born in a country that
was up 18 per cent in volume and By Barry Forshaw detective Balthazar Kovacs in an rent crime genre. Fans of the ments that jump back and forth phy had simply been washed doesn’t exist any more,” he writes
16 per cent in value compared exuberantly realised Budapest. A French TV series Spiral (with its in time, the narrator — whose away by the Drina.” The river about Yugoslavia, at a time when
with 2019. young Israeli historian, Elad, has unvarnished vision of urban biography closely resembles Sta- Drina is where hundreds of Bos- “Socialism was tired, nationalism
There are those of us, of course, soon on the trail of a missing bio- vanished while working in the crime) will find Olivier Norek’s nisic’s own — describes fleeing his niak Muslims were thrown after was wide-awake”.
who are perfectly happy with technical engineer. city’s Jewish Museum. He had Turf Wars (MacLehose, £16.99, hometown with his parents dur- being slaughtered by Serb mili- This is movingly rendered
both sanitised crime and the The real innovation here, how- been researching what happened translated by Nick Caistor) a ing the 1992 massacre and migrat- tary forces in 1992; invoking it through the narrator’s grand-
more gruesome variety. And the ever, is that Scarpetta is remotely powerful addition to his Ban- ing to Heidelberg, Germany. here, Stanisic illustrates how the mother. She’s back in Visegrad,
title of Patricia Cornwell’s new investigating her first crime in Cornwell is adept at lieues Trilogy. Norek was a police- Plot as a reliable tool to describe political penetrates our most pri- but it’s not her Visegrad, not in
novel, Autopsy (HarperCollins, space: a clandestine extraterres- man in the Seine-Saint-Denis area events, however, is frequently vate spheres. any recognisable way. “Every
£20), gives a hint as to which cat- trial laboratory at which scien- super-ingenious killers, of Paris, and book two is as brac- undermined in this autobio- Stanisic’s fragmented style [memory] comes with a post-
egory it falls into. tists are dying. Cornwell is and she furnishes a ingly authentic as its predecessor. graphical novel. For Where You effectively mirrors the book’s script, a footnote, of perpetrators
After her remarkable debut always adept at super-ingenious Psychotherapist Maxine Mei- Come From — which won the 2019 subject matter. Knowledge is and victims and atrocities that
Postmortem in 1990, Cornwell’s killers, and she furnishes a prime prime example here Fung Chung’s quirky debut The German Book Prize — is really gained piecemeal, drip-fed took place there,” writes Stanisic.
mining of the forensic crime example here. Eighth Girl (Pushkin Vertigo, about the splintering of a single through Stanisic’s kaleidoscopic A final act of multiple endings
idiom has proved to be fertile over Luke McCallin made a consid- £8.99) has a heroine suffering family and the troubled search for prose. He recounts anecdotes, affirms that our lives can never be
the years — although fans were erable mark with The Man from to the assets of Hungarian Jews from dissociative identity disor- restitution through narrative. memories and biographical neatly packaged: reality’s edges
nonplussed by her digression into Berlin, which featured humane who died in the Holocaust — and der drawn into crime. The novel “Literature is weak glue,” writes details in simple, matter-of-fact are too frayed. A more structur-
“Ripperology” (she has written German intelligence officer Gre- it’s apparent that one of the city’s makes up in energy what it lacks Stanisic. Writing about their sentences. Sometimes he resorts ally straightforward finale might
contentious books expounding gor Reinhardt operating under key companies was not happy in verisimilitude. shared trauma won’t put his fam- to lists, WhatsApp conversations, have offered something more; the
her theory that the most famous duress in a broken Berlin. The with this. LeBor’s non-fiction And Psychopaths Anonymous ily back together. But it also won’t passing observations in the way book already does enough to
of all serial killers was, in fact, the new Reinhardt, Where God Does books demonstrate a panoramic (Orenda, £8.99) is another blow stop him trying. that memory, too, unfolds in dis- imply that futures are slippery
painter Walter Sickert). Not Walk (No Exit Press, £18.99) grasp of geopolitical issues, so it’s to the solar plexus from the acer- Where You Come From, trans- connected images and incom- and contingent, more influenced
Cornwell’s new book — her 25th is — if anything — even more irre- no surprise that such underpin- bic Will Carver, his anti-heroine, lated by Damion Searls, is an Eng- plete narratives. Stanisic is a ver- by immigration officers than per-
featuring forensic pathologist Kay sistible. Set in the trenches of the nings are so adroitly drawn here the alcoholic Maeve, torn lish version of a German-lan- satile writer and moments of sonal agency. Where Stanisic suc-
Scarpetta — is one of the most Battle of Amiens in 1918 and the — but never at the expense of nar- between indulging her two obses- guage book about a Yugoslav acerbic wit — which recall the ceeds is in inviting us to honour
accomplished entries, even if the poisonous political world of Ber- rative bravura. sions: indiscriminate sex and childhood. This cultural polyph- razor-sharp commentary of fel- what Roland Barthes called the
pacing is notably unhurried. A lin, here Reinhardt puts his life on How the hell does he do it? How bloody murder. ony is fitting for a novel about low Yugoslav-born author “what has been”, the uncanny evi-
murder victim whose hands have the line when attempting to has Michael Connelly maintained how stories come to be written, Dubravka Ugresic — are inter- dence of our past; there, we might
been severed is found on an island expose a conspiracy at the heart his nonpareil standards over so Barry Forshaw is the author of transmitted and often distorted, spersed with poignant descrip- be able to save our stories from
in the Potomac, and Scarpetta is of the German army. many books? The Dark Hours ‘Crime Fiction: A Reader’s Guide’ forgotten or erased. “I was born tions of unbelonging in Germany. being swept away by the current.
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 11
12 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
I
Clockwise from above: n Isaac Julien’s film Paradise Omeros,
‘Fashion Shoot, Brixton a handsome young waiter called
Market’ (1973) by Armet Achille moves between parasols on
Francis; ‘Maracas III’ (2004) the beach in St Lucia and a brutalist
by Hurvin Anderson; housing estate in London. He paces
‘Remain, Thriving’ (2018) by the sand, parties to The Paragons’ “The
Njideka Akunyili Crosby; Tide is High”, hides behind a column
‘Self-portrait’ (1979) by Paul like a shadow in a dark concrete laby-
Dash; ‘Black Panther school rinth, drifts on waves in blinding light.
bags’ (1970) by Neil Kenlock The source is Homer, via Derek Wal-
Richard Ivey/DACS/Artimage; Art on the Underground;
Anna Arca; Tate/Eric and Louise Franck Collection;
cott’s “Omeros”: “I sang of quiet Achille,
Armet Francis Afolabe’s son/who never ascended an
elevator/who had no passport, since the
horizon needs none/never begged or
borrowed, was nobody’s waiter”. In the
film, as in the poem, the ocean ebbs and
flows, like identity — hybrid, fraught,
dreamy, elusive.
Colourful
Achille is the everyman of Tate Brit-
ain’s new multimedia show Life Between Francis realised “there was no history paper). Dash recalled how few black
Islands. The subtitle is Caribbean-British of black photographers in England. portraits he knew then; Gauguin was his
Art 1950s-Now, and the declared I decided to do black images, to capture guide for modelling in umbers, ochres
themes, beginning with the “role of cul- how black people perform in a certain and reds that “caressed” the black body.
ture in decolonisation” and the “socio- vernacular.” His direct, incisive por- Twenty years later, Chris Ofili became
expressions
political struggles that Caribbean- traits, and those of his colleagues — Neil the first black Turner Prize winner.
British people face”, sound earnest, like Kenlock, chronicling the Black Panther Beauty is ravishing in Ofili, often inten-
a sociology text book. Happily, much of movement; Charlie Phillips’ crystalline sified by a threatening undertow, as in
the art is brighter, buzzier and some- close-ups of mixed race couples in Not- the fugitive harlequin “Blue Riders” and
times funnier than that. ting Hill; Horace Ové, at protest meet- “Blue Devils”, derived from Caribbean
Denzil Forrester’s painting “Jah ings in Camden — form a superb show carnival tradition. On display alongside
of dislocation
Shaka”, depicting a crowd animated by a within a show. They document routine the exhibition, in Tate’s permanent col-
charismatic DJ, pulsates like a dub racism — Kenlock’s elegant black lection, is Ofili’s masterpiece, “No
reggae nightclub. Steve McQueen’s woman at a Balham front door daubed Woman, No Cry” (1998), incorporating
“Exodus”, a one-minute, silent, grainy “Keep Britain White” — and resistance, glitter and elephant dung, titled after
video following two smartly dressed and celebrate photography as an equal- the Bob Marley song and representing
Caribbean men negotiating a pair of iser. “Black people never had any per- Doreen Lawrence, her tears collaged
large potted palms through the streets sonality, any strength, always looking from photographs of her murdered
of Shoreditch, east London, is an down,” says Kenlock. “That’s not what I son Stephen. This marked a break-
affecting comedy of dislocation. wanted my subjects to look like.” through in independent language and
“Johanaan” is a stylised elm figure with Painting followed the same trajectory
a mysterious, enormous head and
Tate Britain | A buzzy show of Caribbean-British in more complex, nuanced ways; for me ‘Black people [in art] never
exquisitely swirled wood grain surfaces this is the most compelling line thread-
by Ronald Moody, a Jamaican dentist ing through the exhibition. It begins had any personality . . .
who became a sculptor, self-taught and art tracks how the Windrush generation and others with Aubrey Williams, who arrived in That’s not what I wanted
original, after visiting the British London in 1952; his abstractions share
Museum’s Egyptian antiquities. the mostly muted palette and abstract/ my subjects to look like’
This is a big, baggy, rowdy mess of an responded to life in the UK. By Jackie Wullschläger figurative tension in British postwar
exhibition, as diverse and sometimes painting. But Williams’ recurring form,
confused as multicultural identity itself, for example in “Tribal Mark II” and confidence in black painting — an iconic
full of competing voices. It’s hard to read “Sun and Earth II”, is particular: a black Weeping Woman.
in linear fashion, the captions are heavy- flood of tropical colour and warmth 1960s-1970s McMillan grew up in such a bonelike claw, an element in Warao Collage — a fusion form — is potent as
going and you really have to find your pulls you in. room, based on the Victorian parlour, Amerindian imagery that the artist a layering of collective memory in paint-
own trail, but there is plenty that is In “Kaieteurtoo”, Frank Bowling which he says “caused me much aes- knew from the Guyana rainforest. Wil- ings concerned with identity and
immersive and engrossing. And on pours and drips amber and rose, lime thetic distress” but attested to the liams called it “a strange, very tense, belonging. Transfer imagery from
these short London winter days, the and orange, wet into wet, down a two- Windrush arrivals’ striving for respect- slightly violent shape” — it evokes birds, newspaper and magazine shots of
metre canvas; the painting, evoking ability, the complicated construction predators, migration. black men and women build the walls
light catching the rush of a torrent, is of diaspora identity. Bowling was meanwhile adapting col- and furnishings.
named after a waterfall in Guyana. A It was the children of this generation our field abstraction to include blurred In Njideka Akunyili Crosby’s fictional
purple sea shifts from luminous to who challenged in art the harsh reality maps of Africa or, in “Who’s Afraid of interior — displayed at monumental
opaque in Peter Doig’s stormy that as immigrants they “walked into Barney Newman”, reinterpreting Bar- scale in 2018 at Brixton Underground
“Moruga”. Streaks of lush green serious racism . . . into a frozen urban nett Newman’s “zip” compositions as Station — imagining family and friends,
surround a pool of deep blue sea, jungle”, as photographer Armet Francis the African flag. And, aged 18, Paul relaxed, assured, in a bright modern liv-
palm-fringed, in Hurvin Anderson’s describes it. Dash, another Windrush artist, painted ing room. History and current injustice
“Maracas III”. He changed from “a smiling little black dancers, a flow of arms and legs in is not erased — on the television screen,
Colour shrieks from floor to ceiling in boy” in Jamaica to a bullied south Lon- sprinkled hues beneath a domed ceil- news of the Windrush deportations
Sonia Boyce’s crimson vinyl print don schoolchild. Later he got a job in a ing, in the lovely, Sickert-ish “Dance at unfolds — but the group’s attention is
“Shaggy Bear”, lining a gallery centre commercial photography studio and in Reading Town Hall” (1964). with the future: the lively toddler at the
stage, and in Michael McMillan’s 1973 took the dynamic, upbeat picture “Figurative art is dead” he was repri- composition’s centre. The point is the
intimate walk-in installation “The that is Tate’s catalogue cover: beneath manded at Chelsea College. Dash did not comfortable ordinariness. This painting
Front Room” — a garish glory of gold an umbrella, a black model in mauve dare return to it until 1979 with the concludes the exhibition; it is called
wallpaper, over-patterned carpet, cro- flared trousers and sequins lights up the arresting “Self-portrait”, tonally dark “Remain, Thriving”.
cheted doilies, velour scrolls, plastic grey wet street in “Fashion Shoot, Brix- but sparked into life by a gold fez (actu-
flowers, nostalgic photographs. In the ton Market”. ally an improvised roll of yellow December 1 to April 3 2022, tate.org.uk
O
ne of the first times I met I learnt from him, seeing him develop well documented — she wrote him a the things that you never have to look at Miranda’s Hamilton, there was a drought But then the Brits started embracing
Stephen Sondheim was the show, how a true genius behaves. note before she went into surgery which twice. You know them at “hello”. in musical theatre after Steve finished Sondheim in ways that America didn’t,
when I auditioned for Sun- They say: “What do you think? What are said: “My only regret in life was giving Steve’s shows have had a wonderful his run of Sunday, Into the Woods (1987) with passion and fervour, and they gave
day in the Park with George, you going through? I’d love to talk to you birth to you.” This was devastating for revival in the past 20 years — a reimag- and Passion (1994). It was more like, him the respect that I certainly felt he
his show inspired by the about it. Do you have any thoughts after him and a very painful experience. One ined Sweeney Todd, the gender-switched turn every Disney movie into a musical, deserved. They woke up America to a
life of the painter Georges Seurat, which I’ve written it?” He was always open and of the amazing things about Steve is how Company, which is now on Broadway. I turn The Beatles into a musical. I think greater appreciation of Stephen Sond-
opened on Broadway in 1984 and went generous. It was very clear when he he took that pain and set about, for the think they are popular again because, people were starving to death — they heim! In the US his shows sometimes
on to win the Pulitzer Prize for Drama. rest of his life, using the piano, music, with the exception of Lin-Manuel had no food for their souls. didn’t make a lot of money, they got
The first problem was that I was a nerv- ‘Steve took that pain and the word as the battlefield for his exist- mixed receptions at times, but Steve
ous wreck, a terrible auditioner. I had ence, to turn that darkness into light. Mandy Patinkin, was undaunted. He embodied and hon-
just won a Tony award for Evita, where I set about, for the rest of That darkness, that trouble, was in the Bernadette oured his devotion to craft, and I think
played Che, and I asked whether you his life . . . to turn that end a phenomenal gift to him. Peters and people needed that sustenance.
had to audition after you win a Tony. And it was a lesson to me for my life Stephen Long before his passing, theatregoers
Steve said: “Listen, Mandy: I audition darkness into light’ too, that the difficult moments in life are Sondheim in in America woke up to his limitless gifts.
everyone except Angela [Lansbury].” not the tragedies, they’re the gifts. He 1983 — Bettmann/Getty And I guarantee you, his work is going to
The next problem was that Steve, who changed my life, he defined my life, he be done more often and in different
died late last month, and James Lapine, didn’t like something but he could be gave me the words to speak and to sing ways than we’ve ever seen in our
who wrote the show’s book, had written funny about it too. for the rest of my life. lifetimes, and it will be there forever.
the music for all the characters except During the rehearsals, he was writing I’m always stunned when people say: There’s not going to be another Steve
mine. To play an artist, I took drawing a song called “Beautiful” for George and “Aren’t his music and lyrics complicated Sondheim. There’s just one Shakespeare
classes and would sit in rehearsals draw- his mother to sing, and he said he’d love and difficult to sing?” No! It’s the clear- and one Sondheim and we’re lucky that
ing eight, nine, 10 hours a day, while all to talk to me, could he give me a call? We est, simplest music to sing in the world we have them forever. The fact that I got
the other characters sang. That was had this conversation which lasted for at because it’s so emotionally clear. You to work and be a friend and be in the
quite a challenge, day after day waiting least an hour and it was one of the most never have to struggle to learn the words room with one of those guys? I can’t get
for Steve to write the musical part for beautiful conversations I ever had. because they make such profound over it.
George. Once in a while, every week or We were talking about our mothers, sense. When it’s written from the gut
so, another piece would come in. and Steve’s life with his mother has been and it’s truthful and generous, those are As told to Josh Spero
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 13
Arts
for instance, is nada. It’s three, four
‘I don’t want
Stellan Skarsgard | The actor lines. But it was a challenge to create [a
character] that has such a presence that
you feel him throughout the film even
on mixing commercial and when he isn’t on screen.”
Dune is just the latest big studio movie
the audience
in which Skarsgard has appeared, fol-
arthouse cinema and why lowing roles in Thor and The Avengers,
two Pirates of the Caribbean films,
Mamma Mia! and its sequel. However, he
you can never tell which role has also decried the decline of auteur
cinema. Is this not a double standard?
to feel safe’
he’ll play next. By Dan Einav “No,” he says. “The problem is not the
franchise films. The problem is in the
Ponzi-scheme financial system we have
that’s based on consuming more and
S
producing more. It’s depriving every
tellan Skarsgard is distressed sector of any nuance, of anything that
whenever he is cast in any- stands out. In film, all the small distrib-
thing. It seems a curious reac- utors, all the character-driven, medi-
tion for an actor, not least one um-budget films that were about some-
with more than 150 credits thing, and that were the core of Holly-
spanning half a century. “Every time I wood in the 1970s, are disappearing. It’s
say yes to something I regret it,” he says like when you see the same exact shops
on Zoom. “I immediately get very tense in every fucking mall in the world.”
in the neck and I start to hyperventilate. As a frequent collaborator of the con-
I’m really scared until I’ve been [on set] troversial Lars Von Trier, and an actor
for a couple of days and then I feel at
home. But the fear is always there.” ‘When you’ve done some
This anxiety is hard to reconcile with
the array of commanding performances obscure, dark films on a low
the 70-year-old Swede has given in films budget, it’s really nice to do
such as Good Will Hunting, Nymphoma-
niac and The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo a big fluffy Hollywood film’
and the TV series Chernobyl, for which
he won a Golden Globe last year. But it’s
easier to see why he may have had some Above: Swedish actor Skarsgard has made five features. How “We have much fewer taboos than the Perhaps Skarsgard’s greatest asset is who has relished taking on provocative
misgivings about his latest film, Hope. Stellan Skarsgard did he feel about immersing himself in Anglo-Saxons,” Skarsgard says. “In that he fits into whatever he’s cast in, be projects, does he see this homogenisa-
Not only does the Norwegian drama the private lives of these close friends? America they [debate] what age you it quiet human dramas, outré arthouse tion of cinema as part of an aversion to
deal with terminal illness, it tells the Below: with Andrea Braein “I felt pressure when she asked me if I should start talking to the kids about pieces, macabre thrillers or sunny musi- anything that might cause offence?
semi-autobiographical story of its writ- in the new Norwegian wanted to be in it, and I was worried sex, about death. We talk about it as cals. I wonder if he chooses such incon- “The fear of the Twitterstorm gives a
er-director, Maria Sodahl, who defied drama ‘Hope’ — Riccardo Ghilardi/ whether she had enough distance from soon as they start asking. The film is gruous parts to stave off complacency. disproportionate power to very few peo-
her diagnosis. Furthermore, Skarsgard’s Contour by Getty Images; Manuel Claro
it to not be self-indulgent,” he tells me. Scandinavian in its straightforwardness “It’s very conscious. When you’ve ple, but it definitely affects what’s writ-
character, Tomas, is a fictionalised ver- “I thought: ‘Do we need another fucking when it comes to big questions. It’s very done some obscure and very dark films ten in the papers,” Skarsgard says. “I
sion of Sodahl’s film-maker husband, cancer movie?’ But then she sent me two pragmatic.” on a very low budget, it’s really nice to go think it’s an artist’s duty to be offen-
Hans Petter Moland, with whom pages and it was also obviously a love That said, Hope also contains emotive and do a big fluffy Hollywood film, and sive . . . We cannot censor ourselves.
story . . . It’s about all the years before scenes, most notably those that inter- vice versa,” he says. “I don’t want the Art is not a commodity that should con-
the cancer came. It’s about what hap- lace the dread of the illness with the audience to feel safe when they see me. I firm the society we live in — it’s some-
pens in a family and a relationship when malaise at the heart of Anja and Tomas’s want them to feel like they shouldn’t thing that should challenge it.”
people stop paying attention.” relationship, and their attempts to com- know what’s coming.” Despite his gloomy views on contem-
Hope rises above maudlin sentimen- municate more candidly and tenderly For all the variety of his work, Skars- porary cinema, Skarsgard shows no
tality; films about dying rarely feel so than ever before. gard is perhaps most readily associated signs of slowing down. While he tells me
alive. It does not treat the imminent I ask Skarsgard how he and Hovig, with playing intense, unnerving and he’s already dreading donning his fat
death of Anja (Sodahl’s alter-ego, played strangers before the film, were able to monstrous figures, as seen most suit for the Dune sequel, he’s currently
by Andrea Braein Hovig) as a poetic, recreate a complex dynamic driven by recently in Dune, in which he plays the enjoying himself on location in Finland
abstract concept that beatifies the sick 20 years of unarticulated love and dis- glabrous and obese Baron Harkonnen. on the set of a film co-written by his
person and their family. Instead, it satisfaction. Why is he so often cast as a villain? wife, Megan Everett, and starring his
approaches it as unmistakably human. “If you work with good actors, you “American xenophobia has a lot to do son Gustaf (one of his eight children).
Thus Sodahl joins the Scandinavian tra- know how to instantly create a relation- with it. When I started out in Holly- “It’s called What Remains,” he says, a
dition, from Kierkegaard to Knausgaard, ship,” he says. “And we’ve both been wood, anyone who had an accent that smile crossing his face. “Let’s see if it’s
of broaching death with openness and married for years so we know what a wasn’t American was immediately what remains of cinema.”
worldliness. Why is this region so skilled marriage is, which helped. You can say I defined as evil,” he says. “But playing
at dealing with the subject in its art? prepared for several decades.” the bad guy can be fun. The role in Dune, ‘Hope’ is in UK cinemas from December 10
14 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
Arts
chronological boundaries are arbitrary,r
but here they are especially frustrating.
Humphreville is making a narrow w his-
torical argument — that women belong
in the origin storyy of American abstrac-
tion — and she has neither the space nor
the scope to reach into the drama’sa sec-
ond and third acts. The show cuts off
just as several tributaries converged
into Abstract Expressionism, a market-
ing phenomenon pumped up byy swag-
ger, misogyny and booze. The women
(mostly) drank less and lived longer,
maturing across decades that the exhi-
bition doesn’t cover.
And so we get a single 1937 lithograph
by Esphyr Slobodkina, in which she
riffs,
f with modest success, on Picassoid
synthetic cubism. In 1940, she fulfilled
her male colleagues’ most snobbish
expectations and published a children’s
Compact
book. Many generations and 2m copies
later, Caps for Sale, about an itinerant
peddler and a passel of monkeys,
remains in print. But the Whitney might
have
a put both those achievements in
context by including one of her later
abstract
and more original works, a 1952 oil
paintingg with sturdyy forms suspended,
mobile-like, against a peach-and-sea
green backdrop.
Alice Trumbull Mason, who was,
along with Slobodkina, a co-founder of
the American Abstract Artists Group, is
H
in the 1930s. “Maybey you think intellec-
tual life is not the real thing,” she wrote
ooray! A major museum is hole view into a vaster world. This one to her sister in 1934. “But dammit — just
arguing thatt women con- makes do, mostly trotting out a token caring for babies isn’tt either. I am chaf-
tributed immeasurably painting or printt each (not always a the ing to get back to painting.”
more to the history of best) byy 27 artists, a ffew of them canoni- She finally did, and the Whitney cele-
abstract art in the mid- cal but most virtually unknown. Almost brates her return with a trio of pictures,
20th-century than is generally acknowl- all the works live in the Whitney’s none as interesting as the later works
edged. Butt wait! The museum is making vaults, which could have a ffurnished a far that stayed in storage. “Labyrinth of
that case with a grudging, tiny, mislead- meatier treatment of the same topic. Closed Forms”, a vaguely Surrealist
ing exhibition thatt will leave
a viewers The museum’s stash off 10 Krasners is etching of amoeboid blobs from 1945,
concluding the opposite. Even as Jasper represented byy a single, spectacular oil appears to havea been included chiefly f
Johns manspreads across multiple from 1938, a quasi still-life of mouthwa- because it supplied the
t exhibition’s title.
floors off New York’s Whitneyy Museum, tering mauves and buttery yellows, But Mason didn’t come into her own
Labyrinth off Forms: Women and Abstrac- unfurling against greatt seas of white. until the 1950s, when herr bold graphic
tion, 1930-1950 is stuffed into a leftover Hans Hofmann, the teacher who geometries sprang off white surfaces.
wedge of real estate between the audito- tempted Krasner away ffrom realism, Each of these women deserves a spot-
rium and the education centre. It should was so bowled over that he bestowed the light of her own — especially, perhaps,
really have
a been called Pantry off Forms. ultimate superlative: her work, he said, Dorr Bothwell, who followed an idiosyn-
The disjunction between intent and was “so good you’d never know it was cratic path out of San Francisco. In 1928,
aspiration is almost comically stark. A done byy a woman”. (It did not, however, r Clockwise from There’s some irony to the sense of she went alone to Samoa, managing to
catalogue essay byy curator Sarah Hum- dislodge him from his belief thatt “only main: Untitled claustrophobia, because abstraction get herself adopted byy a village chief and
phreville, titled “Boldness Knew No men had the wings for art”.) (c1942) by promised to liberate women from the accepted as full Samoan. Even her later
Limits”, enumerates the obstacles that Krasner is the megastar whose glow w is Charmion von tyranny of suitable subjects. Instead of Mediterranean sojourns were distinc-
women artists faced and the weapons expected to illuminate the cluster of Wiegand; grappling with what Fine called “the tive; instead of joining the fashionable
they adopted. obscurities. It might have helped, ‘Sub-Marine’ oppressive particularities of realism”, crowd on the Côte d’Azur, she made for
The usual doses of indifference, con- though, to include both the paintings by (1948) by Perle abstractionists could fly into inner land- Corsica. That rough island provided the
descension and critical hostility were all disqualified from serious attention by Perle Fine that the Whitney owns, Fine; Untitled scapes, soaring as they pleased. The title and inspiration for a screenprint
increased for female applicants to the virtue of their names. Now,
w the Whitney instead of just one. “Sub-Marine” (c1947) by Elaine Whitney’s second Fine, “The Tolling Bothwell made in 1950, in which an
avant-garde boys’ club. And so they honours that resourcefulness in the (1948), a pellucid blue expanse framed de Kooning; Bell”, a scything form and a black ham- earth-toned patch — a continent? a face?
banded together to battle prejudice and same way MoMA did in 2017, with Mak- by an orange rectangle, resembles a ‘Figures in a mer-like shape on a background like a feeling? — hovers between pale and
carve out room to manoeuvre. ing Space: Women
W Artists and Postwar window on to infinity from the confines Yellow Room’ by beaten gold, hints at that freedom but azure zones. This is where Labyrinth
They also veiled themselves behind a Abstraction, by not making nearly of a cabin. Lines dissolve and re-form in Anne Ryan (1946) remains demurely locked k aawaay. winds up: on a picture that feels less like
Estate of Charmion von Wiegand/
useful public androgyny: Lenore Kras- enough space. the aquatic field, suggesting limitless Michael Rosenfeld Gallery;
It’s true that “Tolling Bell” dates from a conclusion than an exciting, ambigu-
ner wentt by Lee, Irene Rice Pereiraa by A different show, conceived in anger combinations. But we are inside looking Whitney Museum of American 1954, outside the allotted time span, but ous opener.
the initial I. Doris Bothwell called her- ratherr than resignation, might have
a lev- out, tethered to home and distanced Art; Elaine de Kooning Trust;
estate of Anne Ryan
so does Dorothy Dehner’s spiky “Noc-
self Dorr. All of them hoped not to be eraged tthose limitations, offering a key- from the open vista. turne”,” which does make the cut. All To M
March 2022, whitney.
e org
version predated Brel’s release), who brought Brel’s work to the New
THE LIFE and French-language covers were York stage in the revue Jacques Brel is
OF A SONG commonplace through the 1960s.
Nina Simone sang it in 1965, her voice
Alive and Well and Living in Paris, are
regarded as better translations, but it
grand and disappointed, wintry in its was McKuen who redefined “Ne me
NE ME distress, her despair like an ocean quitte pas” as “If You Go Away”. A
QUITTE PAS trench of sadness.
Brel’s sensibility — dissolute, faintly
McKuen released his version of the
song in 1966 and it crossed
nihilistic, contemptuous of bourgeois immediately into the mainstream.
J
sensibilities — was in tune with that of Shirley Bassey tackled it in 1967,
the rock scene of the late 1960s, even if stretching the syllables at the end of
acques Brel’s “Ne me quitte his music had nothing in common with each verse disconcertingly. Sandie
pas” has proved to have
a most of the bands of that era. Two Shaw,a meanwhile, clung to the French
universal power. There’s not different songwriters in the US, Rod lyrics. Dusty Springfield split the
just an English translation for McKuen and Mort Shuman, set about difference, and recorded a wonderful
this song. You can be translating his work. The versions by bilingual version.
heartbroken in Hebrew, Afrikaans, Shuman, a rock’n’roll-era songwriter Frank Sinatra took on the song for
Arabic, Finnish, West Frisian and mostt his 19969 album Myy Wayy and it suited
languages in between. For who, at som me him p perfectly
t y — at the very bottom of
point in their life, has not been so his raange, a slight wave a ring around
inconsolably, unbearably heartbroken some of the notes emphasising his
that they are willing to lose all dignity vulnerability. Scott Walker, a
and echo Brel’s plea: “Don’tt leave
a me”?? meanwhile, was using Brel to ease his
Brel recorded “Ne me quitte pas” on passage from heart-throb to a
pa
September 11 1959 for his fourth walking, talking existential crisis,
w
album La Valse à Mille Temps, and an nd his first three solo records
drew from his own misery for what were littered with so many Brel
w
he called “aa hymn to the cowardice of soongs they would later be compiled
men”. It was written after the singer on an album (Scott Walker Sings
and actress Zizou ended their Ja ques Brel). His “If You Go Away”
Jacq A
relationship. She had become pregnantt was lush and opulent but given
and Brel — already a married father — conteext byy the other covers. “If You Go
refused to acknowledge the child, Awayy”, on its own, was a sad love song;
leading her to have
a an abortion. At placed d alongside “Next”, “The Girls
which point Brel wrote his song, aannd the Dogs” and “Amsterdam”,
ostensibly ridiculing men for their itt gains meaning as just one part
willingness to debase themselves oof a dissolute life.
before women, though it’s hard not The versions never stopped
to view the narrator as the victim: no ccoming. Young artists will continue
mention of unacknowledged to add to that legacy. And so Lauryn
children or abortions here, just Hill recorded “Ne me quitte pas” on
H
doomed passion. a tribute album to Nina Simone;
The song transcended its origins, Marc Almond, like Walker,
M a took to
though: Brel’s melodyy was for the eexploring the Brel songbook early —
ages, and there is a delicious his first stab at “If You Go A
h Away”, a
contrast between the sombre dramatic and brittle piano version,
d
verses and the choruses, where the was recorded in 1982, with Almond
w
music swirls into life in a melody ggloriously overwrought.
borrowed from Liszt. “Ne me quitte pas”? This is a song
Simone Langlois recorded the thhat will never go away.
first cover version, also in 1959 (the Jacques Brel in concert ert in Michael Hann
chronology is unclear; some believe her Paris, 1959 — Corbis via Getty Images Moree on the series at ft.com/life-of-a-song
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 15
Arts
F
airy-tales have come in for a van; the music in the castle is more
makeover in recent years. The dirge-like and medieval.”
conventional wish list — pal- For him, the National has a responsi-
ace, prince, posh dress — bility towards musicals. As an organisa-
doesn’t quite cut it for a gener- tion in receipt of public subsidy, it can
ation raised on girl power, and choosing both foster new work and stage existing
a life-partner based on shoe size or the shows that may be too challenging or
fact that he happened to wake you up costly for commercial theatre to risk.
scarcely sets a good example. Mean- “It’s important that a place like this
while defining villains by size, looks or has a commitment to evolving new
age is questionable at best. musicals: we’ve now got a pipeline of
So we’ve had Shrek (challenging work coming through. If we’re going to
beauty norms), Frozen (championing do [an existing musical] it should prob-
sisterhood) and, most recently, Andrew ably be one that you wouldn’t get the
Lloyd Webber’s Cinderella, in which our chance to see elsewhere. So Threepenny
heroine is a rebellious goth who hangs Opera and Follies [both recently staged]
out in the woods and the dashing prince are two obvious examples of that.”
isn’t quite what he seems. But what of Hex fuses that drive for new work with
Sleeping Beauty? On the surface, it’s not a recent NT tradition of high-profile
promising. The very title of the story shows for children. There has been criti-
pigeonholes its protagonist, plus she cism, however. For his 2002 Beauty,
spends most of the story asleep and is Norris himself wrote the script. For this
married off as soon as she wakes. Even version he is working with a playwright,
the villain lacks serious credentials: a Tanya Ronder, who is also his wife,
fairy so profoundly peeved at being left which has brought accusations of nepo-
off a guest list that she slaps a hex on a tism. Norris argues that Ronder has
newborn. Hardly adequate motivation. been close to the project since its earlier
It’s not marvellous material for iteration: “Tanya was my primary
drama, admits Rufus Norris, director of working partner before I got this job, she
London’s National Theatre: “The prin- had a long relationship with the
cess is cursed when she’s a tiny baby; she National Theatre — she did three shows
can’t stop it happening; she falls asleep; here, none of which were commissioned
Collecting
Miami sales
The mega-gallery Gagosian is ramping
up its presence in China with the
appointment of Christina You as its
representative in the country. She was
previously director of development
and creative strategy at the influential
UCCA Center for Contemporary Art
in Beijing.
Her appointment coincides with an
“unbelievable surge in demand [for
The Art Market | Buyers in spending mood at Art art] in the region”, says Nick
Simunovic, who has run the gallery’s
Basel Miami Beach; Gagosian adds new China rep; activities in Asia since 2007. He says he
has never seen such an appetite — or
sales figures — for western
Old Masters auctions in London. By Melanie Gerlis contemporary art. The pace of
technology and thirst for knowledge
mean that his audience are now
extremely well informed, he says. “I’ve
Visitors to this week’s Art Basel Miami African-American artist Umar Rashid had collectors here tell me about shows
Beach arrived in the mood to buy, ($25,000-$65,000). The fair’s aisles that are happening on [New York’s]
happy to snap up work at America’s were not as crowded as in pre- Lower East Side.”
biggest art fair for the first time in two pandemic times, due to a now-familiar Gagosian opened a gallery in Hong
years. There was a sense too of “last timed entry system, with gallerists Kong’s Pedder Building in 2011 but “is
hurrah” purchases as news of the well-adjusted to the new normal. not looking for real estate elsewhere
emerging Omicron coronavirus variant “Even if there are more lockdowns, [in Asia]”, Simunovic says. “It’s easy
stoked fears that the international systems are now in place to continue to open a gallery but to programme
market window could soon shut again. promoting and selling the works of it constantly is a big endeavour.”
Sales were swiftly sealed, many in our artists,” said Adam Sheffer, Gagosian’s Hong Kong space has
the pipeline ahead of the fair’s VIP senior director at Lisson Gallery. already sold out its solo show by
opening on November 30 and Jonas Wood, which opened last week,
confirmed on the day. Early sales Spirits were also high at Untitled, an he says.
reported to the Financial Times from established satellite fair of Art Basel on
just six big galleries (from a total of the beach by Ocean Drive, with 145 London shows and sells some juicy Old
253) added up to $40m. exhibitors. “My clients love this Masters works next week, spanning
New work proved particularly fair. There is a degree of discovery, Roman sculpture to 19th-century
popular with buyers, including accessibility and spontaneity paintings. Generating the most
the Texas couples Howard and enabled by the availability and excitement is a rediscovered pen and
Cindy Rachofsky and John and [lower] price points of the ink drawing by Albrecht Dürer, “Virgin
Jennifer Eagle, who together works,” said the New York- and Child” (1503), on view at Agnews
bought a vast ceramic based art adviser Rachel Cole. gallery and part of London Art Week
installation of autumnal Gallerists were enthusiastic (December 3-10). In 2016, the work
leaves by Rebecca Manson too, including those in a new, whose mixed booth platform’s second “Veza”, the Zulu was bought as a presumed copy from a
from Josh Lilley gallery subsidised section for more included work by Sara word she has used for its online auction house sale in Boston for just $30. Since
($350,000). Miami’s ICA fledgling businesses. “We are Berman (up to $26,800). run on behalf of its 56 members. This its discovery by the gallery and
museum bought Christina so grateful for the ability to Meanwhile, across the time the Veza, to run in March 2022, subsequent endorsements, it is now
Quarles’s “Ascent” (2021) experiment at a fair. Not all bay at Art Miami, a will be dedicated to video and other said to be worth $50m.
($325,000) and Rashid gallerists are trust-fund Banksy image of the digital art, “probably with a non- At Sotheby’s, a 1st-2nd century AD
Johnson’s three-metre wide kids,” said Carolina Peanuts cartoon character fungible token element”, Essers says. Roman statue of Aphrodite, which
“Bruise Painting ‘Ask Me Now’” Wheat, co-founder of Charlie Brown was This week, the technology platform stood in the palace of Scotland’s dukes
(2021) ($975,000), both from the non-profit Elijah reported to have sold for Niio announced a partnership with of Hamilton between 1776 and 1919, is
Hauser & Wirth. Trustees from Wheat, which had $4m (Maddox Gallery). South South. offered for between £2m and £3m.
the same museum bought work made early sales by the Physical shows are in the pipeline for Aphrodite’s other illustrious owners
by Dominic Chambers at New York artist Azikiwe Activity continues at 2022, she says, while this week in include the publishing magnate
Lehmann Maupin. Mohammed (priced up South South, a platform Miami marks the news of its inaugural William Randolph Hearst.
Galleries with work at the lower to $10,000). launched mid-pandemic residency — running in person and Highlights at Christie’s include a full-
end of the price scale also Strong trade was also to prioritise the virtually — sponsored by the city’s scale oil sketch of Salisbury cathedral
reported healthy sales, reported by Ghana’s Clockwise from main: ‘Tupac y historically sidelined Global South collector and philanthropist Jorge by John Constable, who has a
particularly with more Gallery 1957, which sold Tupac, Time lords of the Andes. Or, a regions of Africa, Latin America and Pérez, through his El Espacio 23 coinciding show at London’s Royal
politically charged pieces. out its booth of Serge failed Fitzcarraldo’ by Umar Rashid; Asia. The future formula of the nascent museum. Academy (to February 13 2022). The
Tiwani Contemporary Attukwei Clottey ‘Bruise Painting “Ask Me Now”’ by enterprise is likely more “hybrid”, says A work by South Africa’s superstar painting was made in 1823 for the
sold out its booth of 10 ($45,000-$90,000), Rashid Johnson; statue of Aphrodite Liza Essers, founder of Goodman artist William Kentridge stands outside British artist’s major patron, the Bishop
works based on an and by Norway’s Tiwani Contemporary; Stephanie Powell/Hauser & Wirth; Patricio
Pueyrredon
Gallery and the driving force behind the museum this week as an extension of Salisbury, and is also estimated at
imagined empire by the Kristin Hjellegjerde, South South. She is planning the of Goodman Gallery’s pop-up show in between £2m and £3m.
Diversions
CHESS LEONARD BARDEN BRIDGE PAUL MENDELSON
Dealer: West N/S Game running it when West
8
Magnus Carlsen and Ian appearance was in 1993 and Kasparov in their It is the first hand of a A Q 10 9 followed low. A second
AJ 7 5 North East South West
Nepomniachtchi, champion when Garry Kasparov 7 timeless match of 1984-85. Duplicate Pairs final, and 4 — — — 1D finesse and then A♠ drew
and challenger, have drawn defeated Nigel Short. Carlsen 6 Where to watch? Hobbyists the opposition apply AJ 6 5 Dbl 5D NB NB West’s K♠, leaving no
Dbl NB ?
the first five of their $2m 14- defended better than Short, 5
and newcomers should try maximum pressure. Would K7 5
N
3 2
trumps anywhere. Pinning
game world title match in but still stood worse in England’s David Howell and you make the same K3 2 W E Q 10 9 8 4 East-West play a Weak NT, everything on his read of the
Dubai after computer Wednesday’s fifth game. 4
Jovanka Houska on Chess24. decisions as South? AQ J 5 K 10 8 7 3 so since East should hold 5- auction, declarer led 5♣ to
preparation and their This weekend’s three The site also has coverage Should South bid 5S or 6C, Q8 7 4 card support and good K♣ in hand and then, with
3 S
accurate memory banks games are significant. The 2
for experts from the all-time or should he pass and try for J 864 shape, West must have 15pts some trepidation, spurned
dominated the early play. Norwegian, 31, has two No1 woman Judit Polgar and a penalty? To bid at the 5- 6 or more. The bidding also the drop and finessed West
9 6 2
Carlsen’s hopes of a fast Whites and is under pressure 1
A B C D E F G H
from top 10 GM Anish Giri. level in competition usually K 10 9 3 2 suggested that East held at for Q♣. When that
start were dashed as the to break the deadlock. If he 2447 requires ten trumps or a least one shortage, most succeeded, 11 tricks were
Russian revived the Anti- fails, the Muscovite will cease Karjakin in 2016, all 12 Mark Hebden v Chris double fit. Here, South will between +300 and +800. likely in clubs. West there. A less exhausting way
Marshall 1 e4 e5 2 Nf3 Nc6 3 to be a long-odds outsider. against Fabiano Caruana in Baker, British championship, assume an 8-card spade fit But, at Pairs, +300 or +500 continued with Q♦ and to +800 would have been to
Bb5 a6 4 Ba4 Nf6 5 0-0 Be7 Carlsen’s current series of 19 2018, and now the first five Eastbourne 1991. Can you and a 9-card club fit. At scores very badly if 5S is South trumped in dummy. defend 5D doubled, but
6 Re1 b5 7 Bb3 0-0 8 a4!? — successive draws — his last in Dubai — broke the record find White’s winning move? Teams, to pass looks clear- making. At the table, South He cashed A♥ and ruffed 5♥ +650 proved a good start to
its last championship two games against Sergey of 17 set by Anatoly Karpov Solution, back page cut: surely you will gain opted to bid 5S. West led A♦. in hand, before leading J♠, the event.
Jotter pad
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ 17
The myth of
the man-child
Janan Ganesh
Citizen of nowhere
A
friend treats me to an friends who have remained single what keeps people single. More often,
insider’s tour of LA’s well into their thirties, it is a less and it is the promise of maximum control
Atwater Village. As with less credible trope. What stands out over their lives (including, as often as
eye contact across a bar, about them is not their frivolity so not, the option of solitude). I know
it is possible to see a much as the austere opposite. with some precision the list of cities in
neighbourhood for a brief moment and The most adult conversations I have which I want to pass the rest of this
just know. Craftsman bungalows, are with the childless. They read more, decade, and in what sequence. No one
omakase chefs of unsmiling excellence, attend more, travel more and (through with dependants could be so mobile or
a Santiago-like backcloth of mountains: lack of mental distraction, I stress, not so cavalierly strategic. Whatever part
within hours, I arrange a month-long higher intellect) notice more. If you of the self is being exercised here, it is
Airbnb here. I will see which enclave of tend to enjoy this column, consider not the id. Indeed, it should only take
Southern California I fancy after that. that half the ideas come from these a moment’s reflection to see that lots of
There is a magazine subscription to supposed gadabouts. The notion that bachelors have already performed an
An-My Lê was born amid the chaos of her major series, with images reroute, some bags to lug, but no spouse we high-five each other and trade lewd act of discipline. There is no greater
SNAPSHOT of the Vietnam war. Evacuated to the
US with her family in 1975, Lê didn’t
ranging from monochrome
explorations of Lê’s homeland to
or child to inform, much less square.
It is not for everyone, this untethered
tales in front of Leeds vs Arsenal is a
Nick Hornby slander.
feat of self-control than walking away
from a happy romance because it
return until 20 years later, this time American historical re-enactors’ life, or even for a large minority. hampers other callings in life.
‘Rescue’ bearing a large-format camera.
Ever since, Lê has dedicated herself
meticulously researched recreations
of Vietnam war battles, as seen
Yes, family men tend to sidle up and
inquire as to the going on the path not
The received view of The charge of self-regard is fairer.
If anything, those who make it don’t
(1999-2002) to the artistic exploration of war: above. Here fantasy and memory taken. But let us put that down to bachelorhood cannot see know how true it is, or why. If you
its human toll, its rituals and its meet, merging to form something curiosity, shall we, not regret. A clue that it is often a bid for a seldom have to do anything that
by An-My Lê landscapes. Her award-winning
images don’t simply document
else entirely.
Miles Ellingham
to the public’s real thoughts on
bachelorhood is the absence of it from more, not a less serious life
doesn’t reflect your exact desires in the
moment — no school run, no cooking —
conflict, as a photojournalist might, elected office. Of late, the jockeying of you become ever less tolerant of such
but rather examine the spaces ‘On Contested Terrain’ is at the Pete Buttigieg and Kamala Harris has claims on your time. And so, inverting
around it. Milwaukee Art Museum until revived the question of whether the In fact, in manners and the usual order of things, I am more
On Contested Terrain showcases five March 27, 2022 US would ever wear a gay or female comportment, bachelors often have selfish at 39 than I was at 24. By 50,
president. I wager that we’ll see at least more in common with the cliché of I will resent even the decennial census
one of each before the next unmarried the spinster. Theirs is a decorum, as an imposition.
one. 1970s Britain elected Ted Heath, almost a formality, born of aversion But self-regard is not the same as
true, but on the tacit understanding to the smells, stains and general silliness. Egoism is not the same as
that he wasn’t doing much with all that boisterousness of a kid-filled home. immaturity. The received view of
Jo Ellison
Trending
O
f the many quotes that unearthed among his fans. Sondheim, by new challenges and learning:
have circulated since the it seems, was a prolific letter writer Sondheim talked often of only wanting
death of Stephen and although he didn’t always answer to try things he had never done before.
Sondheim, the one that their specific questions regarding Similarly, Abloh, speaking to the FT
sticks for me finds the motive or clarification, he would only weeks before his passing, talked
composer, lyricist and cryptic- cheerily offer some opinion, of looking for the “leap forward” and
crossword-setter describing the encouragement and hope. discovering “the unexpected twist”.
influence of Oscar Hammerstein II. Likewise, Virgil Abloh, the fashion Both remind us of the value of the
“If he’d been a geologist,” he said, designer who last weekend died from mentor. In a world in which the
“I would have been a geologist.” cancer; a true disrupter in the business business of advising can seem quite
Hammerstein, who knew Sondheim’s who was only 41 years old. Another corporate and stale, where nurturing
mother, was something of a surrogate prodigious talent who conjured a young employees has become more
father to Sondheim following his multidisciplinary career that wove a professional duty than a personal
parents’ separation. He was the young dozen skills and interests, Abloh was obligation (how many of you are
composer’s first and harshest critic, equally mindful that he should pass the currently signed up on mentor
dismissing the 15-year-old’s efforts at a lessons on. “When you’re lucky enough programmes?), it can sometimes feel
musical as “terrible”, but then offering to get a ride to the penthouse,” he once as though the sharing of our insights
to go through it line by line to show told a reporter of his obligation to the or experience can feel a little false.
him what was wrong. Sondheim would next generation, “it’s your duty to send Are our lives that interesting? Does
later say that the hour or so that the elevator back down.” anybody care? Worse, will we be
Hammerstein spent on that post Abloh did not send typewritten accused of mansplaining? The current
mortem taught him more than most schisms that exist between the
artists glean in a career. Hammerstein dismissed generations are enough to make
The Oklahoma! and Sound of Music anyone think twice before volunteering
lyricist played a huge part in the young Sondheim’s efforts as their advice. Yet having a great mentor
shaping of Sondheim’s early career: it ‘terrible’ — but then offered can be totally transformational. I’m
was he that advised Sondheim that hugely indebted to so many people
yes, he should work on West Side Story. to go through it line by line who have spent time with me through
He also told him that it was also worth my career. The editor who, on my
sacrificing his burgeoning ambitions in having completely ballsed a test to
composition to work on Gypsy, as it letters, but he sent WhatsApp texts and sub-edit on his paper, spared me 20
would be a good experience for him messages by the bajillion. He filled his minutes to help repoint me in the right
to work with Ethel Merman, a real fashion shows with graduates and direction. The chief executive in Paris
star. In the traditional sense of a students, and encouraged a truly who offers me a slot to shoot the breeze
professional mentorship, Sondheim inclusive forum for design. Even about the markets and share his
got the golden ticket. He learnt from though he liked to simultaneously business theories. The revered
the best. And although he arguably steer several dozen projects, he found colleague who occasionally drops you
eclipsed Hammerstein in his own the time to answer fans with great an unexpected line of praise.
eventual dominance of the medium, clusters of heart emojis and “Children will listen”, goes the
Sondheim never forgot the debt of motivation. He was always unfailingly Sondheim lyric. Although today, they
gratitude he owed. generous with his time. mostly won’t. Adults will listen even
It was a courtesy he extended Sondheim and Abloh were both less. And for sure the world is full of
towards others also. Though brusque, exceptional — in personality and in boring warble. And we may not live
and often scornful of some actors and achievement. Two giants of their next door to a Pulitzer Prize-winning
his many stage interpreters, Sondheim respective industries, they could be legend of the theatre. But, as Abloh and
was unfailingly generous in helping expansive and generous with their Sondheim remind us, it’s all about the
others out. The most touching tribute minds. They didn’t guard their talent upcoming generation, and genius is
to the composer that has been with small protective jealousies, they even greater when it’s shared.
discovered in his passing is the volume had the confidence of genius and got on
of correspondence that has been with their lives. Both were stimulated Email Jo at jo.ellison@ft.com
Chess solution 2447 1 c8=N+! Rxc8 2 bxc8=N+! followed by 3 Rxg1 and White wins with his extra rook.
18 ★ 4 December/5 December 2021
Saturday 4 December / Sunday 5 December 2021
I
t sounds completely improbable,
but he wasn’t pretentious in any
way,” says designer Marc Newson of
Karl Lagerfeld. “And he was one
of the funniest people I knew —
he could be humorous in multiple
languages. He was ridiculously opinion-
ated, but coming from him it all
made sense.”
Indeed, Lagerfeld was as famous for
the grand fashion put-down — that
sweatpants were a sign of defeat; or that
trendy was the stage before tacky — as
for his pompadoured white ponytail,
high-collared shirts and the dark glasses
clamped to his face.
The pair met in Paris as Newson’s
career was taking off in the late 1980s,
with Lagerfeld seeking out the young
Australian and going on to acquire
many pieces of his work, as well as
taking his portrait for magazine of the
moment Visionaire. “If you did some-
thing in a really straightforward, honest
way, it seemed to appeal to him,”
says Newson.
A man possessed
ished aluminium — are up for sale, in a
series of auctions at Sotheby’s in
Monaco and Paris containing nearly
1,000 lots from the Lagerfeld estate.
“It is an enormous event,” says Pierre
Mothes, vice-president of Sotheby’s,
France, who is running the sale. “He was
a world icon. I’ve been in taxis in China
with a Tokidoki Karl hanging from the
rear-view mirror.” (There is also one of
the PVC figures in the sale, though in
this case it belonged to Karl himself, is
25cm high and encrusted in rhine- replacing home dressmaking, and dose of irreverence — reinvented it be his close friend and art adviser for and pink bars designed by the Japanese
stones.) “And he was a compulsive Lagerfeld — ever one to sniff the zeit- for the times. His Chanel — with its 25 years, as well as the creative director Masanori Umeda.
buyer,” adds Mothes. geist — leapt upon its vast potential. outsized double-C logos and bouclé of Vogue magazine — when Hourcade “It was a palace for a child,” said
(From top) Karl Newson agrees. “It’s safe to say, he was By the mid-1960s, he’d been invited to biker caps, a real-life elaboration first visited the stage-set home, as he Putman later. “Just another sophisti-
Lagerfeld at his quite extravagant.” One of the lots, how- apply his forward- thinking to the house of his theory that a sense of recounts in his book Karl: No Regrets. cation for Karl.” In 1991, he sold the
home in the ever, is an Atmos clock that Newson of Fendi, turning the dowdy Roman humour and a little lack of “But now I want to go on to something whole lot at auction.
Hôtel Pozzo designed in 2008 for Jaeger-LeCoultre, furrier into a fun, fashion-led label. respect is required to make a else.” It turned out he had bought a Bre- By the later 1980s, he had moved to
di Borgo, and gave to Lagerfeld as a gift that year. At Chloé, he played with legend survive — became his ton manor house, and together the pair the Hôtel Pozzo di Borgo, built in 1707 in
Paris, 1990; a “It felt like time to give something historical styles to cre- greatest success. made it into a dazzling château filled the Rue de l’Université. He filled its
ceramic work back,” he says. ate one of the first high- Early on, he demonstrated a with 18th-century artefacts. nearly 11,000 sq ft with valuable tapes-
by Joana Lagerfeld’s life story is well known. quality, easy-access keen passion for houses and fur- In the 1980s, he bought himself an tries, panelling from the Tuileries Pal-
Vasconcelos in As a 17-year-old, in 1950, he left Ham- prêt-a-porter brands. niture too. He decorated an apart- apartment in Monaco and, with the help ace and bronzes created for Catherine
homage to burg for Paris, where he quickly But it was at Chanel, ment in Place Saint-Sulpice in Paris of the interior designer du jour, Andrée the Great. “That really was a fuck-off
Lagerfeld’s cat received recognition for his skills as a which he joined in 1983 as an homage to the 1924 Marcel Putman, filled it with Memphis design. place,” says Newson. “It was eclectic,
Choupette, one fashion designer. Learning on the job in (while remaining at Fendi L’Herbier film L’Inhumaine, with its The Italian movement, led by Ettore but what really struck me was the
of the items the rarefied workshops of Pierre and starting his own Karl sets designed by Robert Mallet-Stevens Sottsass, was a fantasy of surface deco- number of books he had.”
from his estate Balmain and Jean Patou, he soon aban- Lagerfeld label the following and Fernand Léger, furniture by Pierre ration, candy colours and crazy geomet- But by 2000, it had all gone on sale
on sale at doned the increasingly stuffy world year), that he made his full impact. He Chareau and costumes by Poiret. ric shapes, and Lagerfeld consumed it again, the contents taking three full
Sotheby’s of couture for ready-to-wear; the prêt- took its heritage of tweed, fringing, “I made an Art Deco plan here,” he whole. The seating area in the living
Fotex/REX/Shutterstock;
©Sothebys/ArtDigital Studio a-porter sector was gathering speed, camellias and pearls and — with a large told Patrick Hourcade — who went on to room was a boxing ring with baby blue Continued on page 2
2 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
House Home
How to choose I am looking for gifts for friends
who love interiors and collecting
Old books make excellent
presents. Turn to online dealers
Jackson and former buyer Daniel Crow,
have aimed to create a destination
an utterly
objects for their own homes. such as Hampshire’s Beaux website on which everything one might
Any thoughts? Books for a brilliantly diverse need for a home can be found in one
selection of rare tomes on art, place, along the way considering
theatrical phenomenon David Garrick, footpads and Johnson was one who live, breathe and constantly change. adviser to prime minister Boris
50 OBJECTS and one horse between them. They advocated not just keeping to its safer Take one of the 42,773 words in his Johnson, has been pictured with one
hailed from Lichfield in the English streets and squares. dictionary, “slubberdegullion”. Now outside his north London home.
FROM AROUND Midlands and their arrangement was He particularly loved the bustle and archaic, in Johnson’s day it stood for Users of such accessories may
that each completed half of the intensity of markets; a short walk to “a paltry, dirty, sorry wretch”. feel they signal age, implicit of
THE WORLD 165-mile journey on foot. the west, for example, was that of The walking stick is probably wisdom, and give a Moses-in-the-
The wonder of weeds This walking stick on show at Covent Garden, with its associated ceremonial. It’s one of many he had desert feel. Johnson (Samuel) had
Even in Oxford university’s well- #8: Dr Johnson’s Johnson’s house, now a museum at 17 tavern and theatre life. but, made of birch, it shows little sign such qualities. He was a strong
ordered gardens, they have a place Gough Square, just off Fleet Street in In such places he realised that his of wear and tear. He was taught a believer in the equality of peoples and
Page 14
walking stick central London, was given to him and first ambitions for his dictionary were lesson when one of his favourites, a an ardent anti-slaver before it was
Dr Samuel Johnson — best known to inscribed by Garrick in 1755. Topped in at best naive and at worst hopeless. large oak article, was lost, assumed fashionable to be so. He’d have surely
the world for his Dictionary of the gold leaf, it’s tempting to imagine He aimed to fix and standardise the stolen, on the Isle of Mull. waved his walking stick at anyone
House & Home Unlocked English Language (1755) — was an Johnson flourishing it as he set out on English language, only to learn that Today, walking sticks are making a who disagreed.
inveterate walker. He came to London his walks around the capital. But out he’d have to modify his assumptions comeback among men of a certain Peter Chapman
FT subscribers can sign up for our weekly
in 1737 with his friend, the future there was a city of tosspots and given that language was bound to vintage. Dominic Cummings, former drjohnsonshouse.org
email newsletter containing guides to the
global property market, distinctive
architecture, interior design and gardens.
Go to ft.com/newsletters
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 3
House Home
UK property | A village-like
LONDON
lifestyle, central location Ravenscourt Park
Kensington
Olympia
and good schools are luring BRACKENBURY
homebuyers to the London Ravenscourt
Park VILLAGE
BROOK
area. By Liz Rowlinson GREEN
A
St Peter’s Hammersmith
Square
self-declared west London River T
ha Barons
girl, Tara Guinness has Court Queen’s
me
bought her first home in Club
s
Hammersmith this year.
The daughter of fashion 250 m
©Mapcreator.io/©HERE
designer Lulu, she had grown up
in bohemian Notting Hill, but had
been working and renting in Brixton,
south London. Photogenic pastel-coloured houses in
Yet after moving in with her fiancé Wingate Road sell for over £2m, and
James during lockdown, the couple larger houses can also be found in the
gravitated towards the independent north-east corner — on Iffley, Hebron
eateries and community feel of Brack- and Marco Roads — where three/four-
enbury Village to buy a flat. “Com- storey Victorian houses sell for £1.7m-
pletely priced out of Notting Hill, a lot of plus. One-bedroom flats on the east side
our friends are moving here too,” says of the village, which has a more tran-
the chef who set up Tara Cookery to run sient feel, cost £450,000-£550,000;
courses. “It’s so central and well placed two-bedroom flats cost from £600,000.
to get out of London quickly on the A4.”
Superb Underground connections Brook Green/Kensington
and relative affordability are the two Olympia
Hammersmith heads-up
key drivers for child-free couples mov- Proximity to Holland Park, the schools
ing to Hammersmith, while great state and the weekend Brook Green Farmers’
and private schools have long attracted Market draws families to the area’s free-
families, including three of the capital’s hold Victorian terrace houses, says Greg
best independent day schools, Godol- Boxer of agent Marsh & Parsons. “When
phin and Latymer, St Paul’s Girls’ School we get approached by new buyers we
and Latymer Upper School. don’t ask if they have children, just how
many they have,” he says.
‘This area feels pleasantly (Above) A pretty pastel- Such new arrivals have helped sus- of £683,345, below that of 2019’s Brackenbury Village Among them are French and Italian
coloured terrace in Wingate tain property prices, although in £694,632, according to LonRes, which Tukendorf puts Brackenbury Village at families who attend the Ecole Française
more diverse than chichi Road; (below) the ‘village’ keeping with other areas of central tracks the prime London market. the top of most requested locations. A de Londres Jacques Prévert primary
Fulham and offers the of Ravenscourt Park, London since the pandemic, houses In contrast, the average house sale is pocket of quiet roads of Victorian ter- school, which has rising waiting lists,
popular for its garden have done better than flats. Flats up from £1,542,685 two years ago to raced houses, it has Underground sta- according to the head, Sylvie Wanin.
best of both worlds’ centre and tennis courts made up 68 per cent of sales in £1,915,575, with the average length of tions at three of its four corners and its “Despite Brexit and the pandemic,
Charlie Bibby for the FT
the year to date, with an average price time taken for a house to sell 162 days in highlights include the gastropubs The our school remains very popular
the year to date. That is the lowest in five Anglesea Arms and Andover Arms, with the French moving to London
“Currently the area is very much years, and less than the prime fringe John Stenton family butchers and the but also a growing number of interna-
defined by people in their late twenties London average — including areas such Brackenbury Wine Rooms. tional families with no specific
moving from areas such as Clapham, as Clapham, Fulham and Battersea — of Good state schools, including the West French background,” she says. “This
Brixton and Fulham in search of a cooler 196 days. House prices per square foot London Free School (secondary) and the year 30 different nationalities
west London atmosphere with village- are up 8.5 per cent, year on year; flats Ofsted-ranked-Outstanding Bracken- have enrolled.”
style living,” says Plum Fenton of Har- are down 1.8 per cent. bury Primary and John Betts Primary, The average house sold in 2021 cost
ingtons, a buyer’s agent. Lettings are back to where they were attract families to the west side, with £1,974,995, considerably more than the
Central Hammersmith, a business two years ago. “Tenants left London in Cardross and Nasmyth Streets popular average in Brackenbury Village at
and transport hub, might not have the March 2020, prices dropped by up to 15 for being in the catchment area of the lat- £1,501,667, according to LonRes. Boxer
cachet of neighbouring Chiswick or per cent but people have been returning ter, says Phil Coombes, sales manager at says that roads off Brook Green, with its
Kensington but, as Harry Thompson, and we are even seeing sealed bids,” says Horton and Garton. tennis courts and playground, are in
a copywriter who moved into a flat in Agatha Tukendorf, lettings manager at “Two-bed terraced houses, many demand, especially Sterndale and
Ravenscourt Park in February, says: local agent Horton and Garton. In Q3 extending into the roof for a third bed- Dewhurst Roads, Luxemburg and Bute
“Once you get over first impressions this year, they were at £34.41 per sq ft room, at £1.3m-£1.5m, are favoured by Gardens. A five-bedroom house on
of the flyover and addled urban per annum, compared with £34.45 in buyers in their early thirties.” An Edith Road sold for over the
planning around the station, five Q3 2019. But as ever, residential unmodernised railway worker’s cottage asking price in September at £2.72m.
minutes away it’s a completely differ- enclaves in the W6/W14 postcodes all on Perrers Road listed at £1.05m in
ent proposition.” have their own micro markets. March sold for £1.26m after 28 bids. Continued on page 4
4 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
House Home
House Home
N
in on years of price gains with a move Baasalt Campus at Willits, a non-profit per- town to private schools in Aspen.
down n valley to a cheaper or largerr home. Mountain forming arts centre in Basalt, says
a that Dan Kiely, 48, a bartender in Aspen
ew Yorker Richie Lin had Butt rising prices and the demand ffor hol- Carbon
on growing numbers of permanent and who bought a home in Willits in 2014,
been skiing with his hus- iday rentals means thatt housingg is beco- second-home owners are showing up says the range and quality of Basalt’s
band in Aspen for 20 years. mingg unaffordable fforr manyr
y esidents. at performances. Between the closure of nightlife has improved in recent years.
But in 2019, when he was A big partt of the appeal of Basalt is the en// TACAW’A s previous temporary building “There was a time that all good servers
looking to buy a ski home, discount it offers on Aspen, whose pop- in April 2019 and the recent opening off a went up to Aspen. Now you’re getting
he knew thatt the Colorado resort’s high ularity with America’s super-rich has COLO new permanent venue in September betterr service down here.”
prices placed it well beyond his budget. pushed prices beyond the budgets of this year, the average age of its audi- A popular neighbourhood among
Instead, he bought a home in Basalt, a most buyers. According to the Aspen ences fell significantly: “Fifty-plus had buyers is Missouri Heights, on the open
As
20-minute drive down the mountain, Board of Realtors, the median price of a Snnoowmasss
Snowmass been our core audience. More and more plains between Carbo
r ndale and Basalt, a
where homes are a fraction off the price. detached home sold in Aspen in the year Mountain we’re seeing younger people who are short drive fro
f m the arterial Highwayy 82
“We were priced out of Aspen, so we to October was $9.6m, compared with calling this place home and we’re start- thatt connects the two towns before pro-
looked
k to buyy in the next town over. It’s a $1.43m in Basalt. ©M
Map
apcreator..io/© ingg to programme fforr them.” ceeding up to Aspen. Here, a budget of
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 7
House Home
House Home
Straw poll
Architecture | The vote is in
— straw is highly insulating,
enduring and carbon
negative, writes Paul Miles
H
umanity has reached a 2040. Most of this manufactured mass (Clockwise minimise embodied carbon in new pub- has one of the lowest embodied carbon homes in the world, making use of the
milestone. There is now is concrete. from main) lic buildings and roads. In the UK, an levels of any building material. While byproduct of a variety of local crops.
more weight of man-made The construction industry is responsi- Watershed amendment to building regulations has one cubic metre of concrete is responsi- “We have designed and built homes of
stuff on the planet than ble for nearly 40 per cent of global car- Straw Bale been drafted by architects and mem- ble for 246kg of carbon dioxide emis- rice straw in California, oat straw in
the total mass of all living bon emissions, according to the Interna- Residence, bers of the construction industry. “Part sions, the same volume of straw, suita- Alaska, rye straw in Oregon and wheat
organisms, from plankton to whales, tional Energy Agency. There has rightly Sonoma County, Z” would limit the embodied carbon of ble for use in construction, has locked straw in Colorado,” says Anni Tilt of
estimated by scientists at Israel’s been a lot of attention directed at reduc- California, by major building projects. The proposal up 129kg of the gas. California-based Arkin Tilt Architects,
Weizmann Institute of Science to be ing operational emissions of a building, Arkin Tilt has widespread industry support. Straw is also long-lasting. A building which specialises in straw bale and
1.1tn tonnes. If we keep on at this rate, by lowering the use of fossil fuels Architects; On a smaller, homely scale, what can that is believed to be the world’s oldest rammed earth construction.
the weight of things such as infrastruc- through rigorous ultra-low energy Pas- interior detail; we do? Instead of constructing houses surviving straw bale home was built in Over more than 20 years the practice
ture, houses, phones and plastic bottles sivhaus standards, for example. Yet one of the with bricks — the manufacture of four 1903 in the US. Today, the US has some has built nearly 50 homes. Rather than
will be triple the biomass on earth by there has arguably been less attention rooms under pallets of which results in about one of the largest contemporary straw bale quirky hobbit structures that many
paid to embodied carbon: the emissions construction; tonne of carbon emissions (even more if associate with straw bale construction,
produced in the mining, manufacture, straw and the bricks are imported long distances, some of the sprawling properties
transport and assembly of the likes of timber unit for example to the UK from Asia, as an designed by Arkin Tilt are sleek,
concrete, glass and steel. But there are built by Agile estimated 25m are annually) — we expensive-looking homes.
many building materials that don’t need Homes using could build with materials that pull car- “There’s renewed interest in straw
mining; they grow naturally. Modcell panels bon out of the air. Plants are one of the building due to the potential for carbon
Governments worldwide are begin- Edward Caldwell
oldest building materials in the world — storing inherent in rapidly renewable
ning to legislate on embodied carbon. straw, a byproduct of food production — bio-based building materials,” says Tilt.
The Netherlands has been a pioneer “The building of structures can be part
since 2013 with mandatory “lifecycle ‘The building of structures of the climate solution rather than part
assessments” that address environmen- of the problem.”
tal impacts — including embodied car- can be part of the climate There are three main types of con-
bon — of proposed developments over solution rather than part struction with straw, says Barbara Jones,
100 square metres. In July this year, a veteran straw bale builder and director
Colorado passed a bill intended to of the problem’ of the School of Natural Building.
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 9
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House Home
Hot property
Australia’s east coast
K House, Gold Coast, long. Other offerings include a
Queensland, A$3.95m ($2.8m) home cinema, wine cellar and
double-height ceilings in the foyer.
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Italy
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England Ireland
France
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A naturalistic nirvana
F
or a man who hates gardening, He started preparing for their move (Above from the woods, cut back the worst under-
James Golden is not doing too by reading books on garden design. Piet left) James growth, then selected a range of strongly
badly. His New Jersey garden Oudolf quickly became a favourite. Golden at competitive plant species and plonked
— Federal Twist — is described “I felt an explosion of emotion when I Federal Twist, them into the mass of weeds.
by the UK gardening guru read Piet’s books. I loved his style his New Jersey The aim was to experiment and dis-
Monty Don as “one of the best I have because his gardens appeared naturalis- garden; plants cover what could hold its own. It was the
ever visited anywhere in the world” and tic and rather wild with not much struc- that have wait-and-see approach of UK landscape
has featured in several books, including ture in them,” he says. “I wanted a Piet thrived in the designer Dan Pearson, says Golden.
Don’s own American Gardens (2020), Oudolf-style garden.” inhospitable “What I’ve got from Dan is to try to use a
Christopher Woods’ Gardenlust (2018) This fantasy lasted until the moment terrain are a mix light hand and see what the land and
and Dreamscapes by Claire Takacs Golden and Saperia came up against of natives and landscape are asking to be.”
(2018). Golden has just published his Federal Twist’s weed-infested, sodden foreign imports The plants that have survived are a
own book, The View From Federal Twist. clay. “We fell in love with the house, but including (left, mix of natives and foreign imports. Mis-
Golden, 76, modestly bats away the then I looked out of the window and from top) canthus and Filipendula rubra Venusta
praise. But he admits that when he and thought, ‘This is a very bad place to Rudbeckia have thrived, as have very tall, flowering
his husband Phillip Saperia make a garden,’ ” says Golden. maxima, Inula perennials including Silphium lacinia-
bought their home in New But he de cide d to racemosa tum; Hemerocallis altissima and Rud-
Jersey 16 years ago, its 1.5 embrace the challenge. Sonnenspeer, beckia maxima.
acres were not promis- “I’d worked all my life Callicarpa While delighted to have found plants
ing. A gloomy morass in a job I didn’t really dichotoma Issai; tough enough to cope, Golden was dis-
of rampant weeds enjoy because liv- (insets, from mayed that so many of them had yellow
and unchecked ing in New York left) Acer flowers. “I didn’t want any yellow in my
woodland, its per- was expensive and japonicum and garden because I considered it brash and
manently water- the lifestyle had to Filipendula I wanted to create something more sub-
logged clay was be paid for. Now I rubra Venusta tle. But now I have a garden full of yellow
described by a land- looked beyond Katherine Wolkoff for the FT;
NomisH/Alamy; Martin
so I’ve had to make my peace with it.”
‘To me, a garden is about mystery and beauty, scape architect as the work and saw some- Hughes-Jones/Alamy Golden has written a book about the
life and death. It is a spiritual experience. worst he had ever thing I really wanted garden to encourage other beginners
A garden reminds us to have humility,’ encountered. The gar- to do, to create a garden.” faced with similar challenges. He
says Golden den takes the name of the Nor was he deterred by advises to first assess how you view a
road, thought to come from the the fact that the challenge garden in relation to yourself and to
tobacco chewed by immigrant Irish looked like being his alone. “Phillip’s nature, and then to let the design follow.
labourers who worked on canals by the supportive but not interested in gar- “I wrote it to present a garden as a
Delaware River. dens. If he remembers the name of a source of emotion, like a poem or work
It was a daunting prospect for Golden, plant he feels very proud of himself.” of art, pretentious as that sounds. I
whose experience of gardening at that Golden realised that an Oudolf-style wanted to make it a way of living.
time was virtually zilch. Saperia, who garden was a non-runner because such Perhaps we need to think less about
worked in the mental health sector, plants would not survive there. He knew what a garden can be and more about
knew even less. Before their move to not to waste his energy trying to turn a what it can do. Can a garden do some-
New Jersey the couple lived for years in a difficult spot into something alien to its thing to change us?”
16.5ft-wide house in Brooklyn, New wild character. It would have to be a nat- For Golden, the change has been of a
York, with a “small vest pocket garden” uralistic and ecological garden by spiritual nature. He agrees with a visi-
of decking and paving. default because of its severe limitations. tor’s description of Federal Twist as a
Golden’s conversion came in 2005 Casting around for how to start, he “good for nothing” garden in the utili-
when the couple’s property in Brook- found the answer in The New Perennial tarian sense, but says that while it
lyn’s Forte Green rocketed in value after Garden by Noel Kingsbury. Following does not offer a pool or outdoor din-
the area became fashionable. “When we Kingsbury’s advice, Golden did not ing to satisfy the physical appe-
first moved to Fort Greene its reputation attempt to clear the whole site and tite, maybe it can still nourish
was so bad that if we had a night out in improve the soil but instead chopped the soul.
Manhattan no taxi driver would take us down 70 junipers to create a clearing in “To me, a garden is about
home,” he says. mystery and beauty, life and
The couple decided to sell up and look ‘Think less about what a death. It is a spiritual experi-
for a house in the country. Golden was ence. A garden reminds us to
close to retiring from his technical writ- garden can be and more have humility. Each morning I
ing job at an engineering firm and about what it can do. Can it make a double espresso and
decided that for the first time in his life watch the sunrise through the trees.
he wanted a proper garden. do something to change us?’ I’m living in my garden emotionally.”
Not that employing a light touch is
easy, he warns. Maintaining control
entails a constant vigil and physical
Rousham gardens: a lifestyle rather than just a garden exertion of the sort Golden so dislikes.
“I enjoy reading books about gardens
For James Golden, Rousham gardens (1685-1748) that is virtually unchanged. remaining in the same family, with modern equipment. But Starling and but I hate the labour of gardening. Some
in Oxfordshire, designed by William Its naturalistic style incorporates the current owners Charles and Angela her team still do most of their work by people get immense pleasure from
Kent, perfectly encapsulates the landscape beyond as part of the visual Cottrell-Dormer determined to preserve hand, including pruning laurel hedges weeding and digging holes but I don’t.”
emotionally immersive experience he experience. Kent did this by building a their inheritance. “They fight all their with secateurs to avoid the damage He leaves all the dirty work to his gar-
has sought to create at Federal Twist. sham ruin — known as the Eyecatcher — own battles on this,” she says. hedge-cutters inflict. dener Milton, and between the two of
“It’s my favourite garden in England on the skyline across the River Cherwell, “Battles” have included planting trees Preserving Kent’s legacy means them they keep on top of what could
because it’s so full of mystery,” he says. which runs alongside the garden. to blot out modern incursions such as avoiding — as at Federal Twist — any otherwise very easily run out of control.
He cites its “simple informality, its A seamlessness Golden sought to road traffic and a railway line. But cutting commercialisation or bossiness that To Monty Don, Federal Twist
subtle entrance via a dark hole in the emulate at Federal Twist: “I recognised back existing trees and shrubs to would detract from the “unspoilt “expresses one man’s love and passion
shrubbery into shaded, wandering that the landscape had a characterful prevent them from blocking Kent’s views peace and quiet” visitors come for, and a very personal relationship with
pathways. Its dramatic use of dark and identity and atmosphere and any garden take up a far greater share of the says Starling. This means no signs, this space”.
light, the way in which borders can I made would have to work with that. I workload of Starling, 60, and her team of bins, designated picnic areas or shops. The downside to such an accolade is
dissolve and give the illusion of wanted to anchor the garden in the three gardeners. The team is responsible Extra income is derived from events one of continuity, says Golden. “Federal
distance, the pathways leading to landscape, with no visible boundary.” for Kent’s 22-acre garden and also for the including weddings and shooting films, Twist exists only because I create it from
classical buildings and statues, and an Ann Starling, head gardener at 5-acre, 17th-century walled gardens of vetted by the Cottrell-Dormers. day to day. When I die Federal Twist will
extraordinary rill of water flowing into Rousham, says that Kent created a sense fruit and vegetables, both of which are As with Federal Twist, Starling says cease to exist. If someone comes along
a cold bath, like a magical pool.” of romance and mystery by designing the open to the public 365 days a year. They Rousham is a lifestyle rather than just and buys the house and wants to keep
Rousham is one of England’s most garden so visitors would round a corner also tend private gardens on the a garden. Rousham also shares the garden, that’s good, but it’ll become
important examples of the early and see something different each time. 1,800-acre estate. In Kent’s time, another link with Golden and Federal a different garden.”
English Landscape style and is She says that the gardens have remained Rousham employed 18 full-time Twist: it is Monty Don’s favourite
thought to be the only one by Kent virtually unaltered due to the estate gardeners, not having the luxury of garden in England. SS “The View From Federal Twist” by James
Golden, Filbert Press, £40
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 13
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A
bellflower, greater celandine, creeping
year into reshaping an though chunkier silhouette next comfrey and red campion.
established and rather Trinity term. Wild marjoram jostles Rees-Warren commends me for an
overgrown garden, I have with ox-eye daisies. The border “open mind” when it comes to the
an important decision to planting encroaches halfway across garden. “Those species listed are
make. How much do a hoggin path and the exuberance stunning indigenous wild flowers that
I want to control the flora within it? would no doubt be repeated on the are routinely ‘weeded’ out at the
Thanks to my partner being the southern side of the walkway if it were juvenile stage with little thought to the
subdean of Christ Church College, I live not mown and kept as a lawn for beauty and pleasure they will bring —
within the grounds of perhaps the entertaining, tutorials and many a let alone the benefit to wildlife.”
Wild flower
grandest Oxford college, where the summer croquet match. I feel heartened. My changing
more public garden areas are expertly The far side of the lawn is kept uncut attitude towards our indigenous plant
managed by head gardener John James. for the first half of each year to allow flora has coincided with a desire to
I regularly enjoy a stroll around the the buttercups and cow parsley to create a more naturalistic feel. Rather
Masters’ Garden, a rectilinear space flower in summer. It merges into a than large blocks flowering in relay, I
— or weed?
with a large monoculture of grass wild-flower border where, among have been lifting whole clumps of over-
surrounded by four borders. poppies, evening primrose
The path between lawn and feverfew, a clump of ‘Stunning indigenous wild
and bed offers a crisp rosebay willow herb
boundary and walking stands proud. Leake flowers are “weeded” out
it is a masterclass in admits he perennially with little thought to the
combining garden checks its vegetative
plants for different spread by digging pleasure they will bring’
aspects with scarcely a some of the rhizomes
weed to be found. out. It proliferates by
Nip up some steps and fluffy windblown seed (Above) The Corpus Christi College My visit to the free-spirited Corpus exuberant herbaceous plants such as
through a gateway atop too, around 80,000 per garden, Oxford, managed by gardens left me feeling that Leake, at goldenrod, asters and hardy
the south-facing boundary plant. The last few are David Leake (left), with its border 75, and 42 years into his deployment, geraniums, dividing them into pieces,
wall and you find yourself in a parachuting down on to the that is ‘a study in calculated neglect’; was ahead of his time. I begin to replanting a proportion to form a
different world. This is Corpus Christi ordered beds of Christ Church and (right) purple toadflax question whether the term “weed” is haphazard tapestry and composting
College, where the gardens are I feel conflicted. Harry Lawlor for the FT
helpful and turned to a copy of a new the rest.
managed by David Leake, who cuts It is fairly customary for the book, The Ecological Gardener by Matt This is my take on matrix planting,
Mother Nature considerably more peripheral areas of gardens to have a Rees-Warren. The author laments that which blurs the line between wild and
slack. I had trouble tracking him down. looser, wilder feel but I was expecting weeding has “become a byword for cultivated. Relaxing my attitude to
“He doesn’t do email or have a Leake’s laissez-faire attitude to have neatness and order when it should be wild flowers will only enhance this
mobile,” I am told several times. been reined in by college officials in the about selectiveness and restraint”. effect. Rees-Warren agrees: “If you look
I finally find him sat on a bench, on a main quadrangle at Corpus. Not a bit! He goes on to argue that “all at a hedgerow or meadow, you don’t
mild November day, about to tuck into The Front Quad is a paved area with indigenous plants are wild flowers and see blocks or Jekyll drifts but random
a fine college lunch, and sporting his borders of exotics such as Salvia all non-native invasive introductions I have removed wheelbarrows full of it freckles of species.”
trademark long grey hair and beard. involucrata Bethellii and Euphorbia are weeds”. He notes that traditionally with as much of the deep chunky roots Gareth Richards also offers useful
He is keen to show me around the mellifera, cosy in the microclimate the non-native lady’s mantle as I could excavate. I also spent advice in his book RHS Weeds: The
largest space within this compact within the college buildings. (Alchemilla mollis) has been readily considerable time dismantling a Beauty and Uses of 50 Vagabond Plants.
institution, the College Garden. At ground level, every crack and planted and encouraged by gardeners rockery and digging out a huge tangle “Often the only crime a plant has
The early 18th-century neoclassical crevice has been inhabited. I spot whereas our indigenous daisy (Bellis of hedge bindweed roots before making committed is growing too well,” he
Fellows’ Building overlooks the space teasel, feverfew, verbascums, common perennis) has been viewed as an a new gravel garden. remarks. “Weeds are much more a
and it is flanked by a long border that is mallow, greater celandine and valerian. invasive weed and removed. I confess to Rees-Warren via email. perception than a definition.” In the
a study in calculated neglect. Under The footfall of students acts as a natural I reflect on what I have already “Attacking green alkanet, as an ongoing dialogue with my garden, I am
wall-trained specimens of bottlebrush, control, much as grazing animals would removed from the sub-deanery garden. introduced species, makes sense as it becoming less dictatorial. I want it to
strawberry tree, winter jasmine and a in a wild ecosystem. During last year’s The cousin of forget-me-not, green will outcompete native varieties,” he be busy and full of surprises. There is
sprawling wisteria is a host of purple lockdown, when life at the college had Jim Cable alkanet has been in my sights since we explains. “Bindweed is the hardest of ample room for a few vagabonds.
toadflax. They still display their slim slowed to near standstill, the interstitial moved in. It attempted to win me over all wild flowers for gardeners to love,
spikes of little “snapdragons”. community of plants flourished giving with its beguiling blue flowers back in but I like to give it a place away from Follow Jim on Instagram @hortijamie
Alongside them are low rosettes of the effect of a meadow from the On gardens May but its frightening vigour and perennial borders rather than
foxglove plants that will form a similar overlooking library and hall. coarse hispid leaves failed to impress. eradicating it completely.” Rees- Robin Lane Fox returns next week
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ † FTWeekend 1
‘I do like to
pick things
for the table’
Nancy Silverton | The LA-based
restaurateur loves to bring elegance
to her friends’ dining tables and
hunt flea markets for a perfect piece
T
he circle of those who I buy
gifts for is much larger than
when I was buying gifts for
just my family. I give gifts to
upper management at my
restaurants to give them extra thanks
for a great year. And that has gone from
six people to upwards of 35 people.
That’s a lot of people to shop for!
It’s really important for it to be per-
sonal, and that doesn’t mean a different
thing for each person, sometimes one
thing will be right for four people. But it Whenever I go, it’s like here’s one for you
has to mean something. That can mean
Gifts for entertaining at home and one for me. Oh, and if you need a lit-
so many trips to the store. That first trip tle hostess gift, I think it’s great to show
is all about assessing what’s out there I Nancy Silverton up with some nice chocolates. I like this
and then you go back. What really helps Bakeware set, £201, place called Valerie’s in Echo Park.
is to have those half-a-dozen places that madeincookware.com I love going to the flea markets in Italy
have a taste that’s similar to yours. (I have a little house in Umbria) and
For example, here in LA there’s this there are two very large ones, I think
beautiful store for clothing [and acces- they’re on the first Sunday of the month
sories] called Noodle Stories that takes — one in a town called Arezzo and
all the pain and angst out of shopping. K Lisa Corti another in Pissignano. To be able to
Heath [Ceramics] is a great store to find Corolla Frida shop at those flea markets and really
something for someone who loves any- tablecloth, find a one-of-a-kind gift for somebody is
thing to do with the table, whether it be £142, nickey the most special of all. The problem is
kehoe.com that that could be a whole day’s worth of
‘If you need a little looking for one gift. Going into a store is
a lot easier. But you feel like a champion
hostess gift, I think it’s when you get that gift that’s like wow,
this is the most perfect gift.
great to show up with I’ve always thought that a holiday gift
some nice chocolates’ B John Jelfs B Milton Brook should never be an obligation. It should
Medium jug, £95, Pestle and mortar, £36, be something you want to do to show
davidmellordesign.com davidmellordesign.com appreciation.
a bowl, a wooden spoon, or a great vase. My parents were both Jewish but I
Everything they have is beautiful wasn’t raised with religion. The holiday
shapes, tasteful colours. K Nancy Silverton I celebrated with my kids was Christmas
A lot of the cooks in my kitchens are Bakeware set, because there’s just that thrill of waking
obviously going to appreciate anything £201, madein up in the morning, there’s something so
for the table. But there’s a whole slew of cookware.com special about that ritual. I used to buy
people that don’t have anything to do them stockings and fill them up — not
with the kitchen that also are going to with, like, plastic harmonicas, but a
appreciate beautiful napkins or a table- whole set of small gifts. I always made
cloth or glasses. I do like to pick things sure everything was wrapped properly,
for the table, because it makes sense, even though they just got ripped up.
instead of me giving, like, a garden hose. As told to Max Berlinger
Another place I love is called Nickey
Kehoe. There’s such a range of gifts to Nancy Silverton founded the celebrated
buy people — I just bought a bunch of Italian eatery Campanile and La Brea Bak-
beautiful English pitchers that are in ery. A James Beard Award winner, she co-
animal shapes and are just gorgeous. owns the Mozza family of restaurants and
They have wonderful tablecloths, place- B Quail Hare jug, £28, B Valerie Confections Durango Chi Spacca in Los Angeles. Most recently,
mats and these handblown glasses, it’s B Heath Ceramics Shallow salad bowl, £116, heathceramics.com libertylondon.com Bark, £15, valerieconfections.com she opened steakhouse The Barish at the
really hard to restrain yourself in there. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel.
N
Australian boot brand RM com bbr.com Handcrafted in Scotland from The latest innovation from the
ow that I’m in my mid-30s, I’ve finally Williams is that the in-house The ultimate I was given one of these responsibly sourced Japanese house of
reached the age when the pleasure of aftercare team will repair and mid-layer boxes of delicious cashmere, and finished Issey Miyake is an
giving gifts far outstrips the joy of restore any and all pairs of for an Italian reds from St with hand-harvested ultra-insulating
receiving them. I think it has much to boots, old or new. Which unpredictable James’s best wine Italian teasels, Begg x Co’s pleated tweed that
do with the fact that once one accrues a means you British winter, merchant, Berry Bros & scarves are not only has been cleverly
certain number of years, the accumulation of too can wear Connolly’s ultra- Rudd, by a generous stupidly soft, they transformed into
much stuff starts to feel a bit spiritually null and them for the insulating driving friend of mine during also come in these tracksuit
void. Shoes are great and all, but one can’t build a length of your vests are made in lockdown part two, and it uncommonly rich shades bottoms-cum-
home out of Gucci loafers (trust me, I’ve tried). life. These Vibram- the UK. Perfect for only lasted the best part — the best are in formal trousers.
So I’m making a concerted effort to remember soled beauties are throwing over a sweater of a week. The reason? midnight blue and teal. Elegant and
this as we descend into the festive shopping season. top of my list. when its mild and zipping Each and every bottle You can get your scarf comfortable,
This year, I’m determined to buy meaningful gifts up under one of the (the Barolo, in monogrammed for an wear them to
that will either last the test of time — or be con- brand’s cashmere particular) is absolutely extra £20, which is a lunch, and slob
sumed before the new year rolls around (I’m look- overcoats when it’s bitter. delicious. bargain if you ask me. around after.
ing at you Berry Bros & Rudd Italian reds gift box).
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ † FTWeekend 3
I
have always loved Christmas and Left: Marilyn day like any other, but early December,
the magical anticipation that runs Monroe with when the first decorations start appear-
through the month of December. Jack Benny ing across city streets and peeking from
As a kid, I would impatiently wait (left) and Eddie windows, remains one of my favourite
for December 8, a holiday day in Anderson, c1953 times of the year. Light is what makes
Italy that was traditionally spent deco- — Eyevine
Christmas magical — the artificial one
rating our Christmas tree with multiple transforming any street in a spectacle of
strings of lights and baubles collected sparkles, but also the warm one of the
throughout the years. It was hard work, fire burning on Christmas Eve.
involving at least three hours helping I love to give gifts that have meaning
my mum and sister working on precari- and, I hope, will be kept for a long time.
ous ladders, but it always filled me with Jewellery is not always an easy gift to
satisfaction. Once done, we would sit on give, but I’ve found that it can encapsu-
the sofa with the lights off, just admiring late the charm, fascination and signifi-
our creation. cance that Christmas has for me and
Now that I live in London, the 8th is a pass it on to the ones I love.
Bold baubles
I
surprise me this year!
n my family, Christmas has always bubas, sokotos and agbadas. I’m going to One of the most treasured gifts I have
been about celebrating and sharing revive this ritual this year — dressing received is a photograph a friend gave
food with lots of people. When I was up gives such a good feeling and these me of her newly born baby with a hand-
growing up we spent the holidays in memories have formed the foundation written note. As my friends start getting
Lagos. On December 24 my mother of my brand. married and having kids it feels so spe-
would buy a ram from the market and Since establishing Kenneth Ize, I have cial to be invited to be part of these
the butcher would come over to her given my close friends scarves made moments.
house, which was always covered in from handwoven aso oke textiles — As you can probably tell, I like gifts
multicoloured lights both inside and something I hope they will wear for a with a human touch, which is something
out. She spent the whole night cooking Emily Bode does so well. We were final-
the meat, preparing mine and my ists in the 2019 LVMH Prize together. I
brother’s favourite dishes of egusi and ‘Our closest friends were particularly love Bode’s corduroy
banga soup. Muslim so we went to the designs featuring custom illustrations,
On Christmas Day we hosted as many which are based on a tradition started
as 30 friends and family at any given mosque with them, they by Purdue University seniors in 1904, as
time. I never saw a distinction between
Christianity and Islam; our closest
would join us at church’ well as her crochet work.
I am sending a lot of my friends who
friends were Muslim so we would go to are stuck for what gifts to buy to Bev-
the mosque with them and they would erly’s in New York. Because we are still
join us at church; it was especially beau- in a time where people around the world
tiful to share the festive period with are experiencing different lockdown
them eating around one table together. restrictions, I suggest buying beautiful
Although I was born in Lagos, I lived homewares that will bring a sense of
on and off in Austria from the age of calm — Egyptian cotton towels or linen
seven. During my years studying at the bed sheets, for instance.
University of Applied Arts Vienna, we Or maybe it is about introducing
spent a few Christmases in the city. In something to your loved ones’ routine:
Europe, I think the holidays are a quiet encourage a flair for cooking by buying
time that people spend with their own them a baking set, or how about a tea
families, whereas in Nigeria it is much ceremony set? Sparking new interests is
more open, and I have to say I prefer it the greatest gift you can give because
that way. they live beyond Christmas.
Christmas planning would begin in As told to Liam Freeman
November, when my mother started
thinking about our outfits. She bought LVMH Prize-winning Nigerian designer
west African textiles such as floral lace, Kenneth Ize is known for bright,
tie-and-dye and adire, and had them elegantly tailored clothes that
tailored into traditional outfits — champion African craft Kenneth Ize, photographed in Lagos — Joshua Woods
M Alighieri
Zodiac
necklace, £195,
alighieri.com
K Adire African
Textiles
Vintage eagle
Fante Asafo flag,
£750,
adireafrican
textiles.com
I Bianca
Saunders
Remember
Me scarf,
£150, bianca
saunders.com
W
gentle, like Sunday Cologne, which
e usually celebrate the
holidays in the Baha-
mas and are hoping to ‘We have always done
be there this year. Our
house was damaged
stockings for the dogs
during the hurricane, so we might be because we figure the
camping out in it, but I would rather be
there with a cooler next to my bed than
dogs aren’t Jewish’
not at all. I celebrate with my posse.
which is growing. There’s my three sons,
my nephews, and now they all have girl- is very citrusy and not so polarising.
friends and wives. I usually decorate my For stocking fillers everything little is
home in New Jersey but when I get to the cute: I love little teeny nips of vodka or
Bahamas, even though we are celebrat- tequila, mini Himalayan salt or mini
ing the holidays, I like it very minimal. I olive oil. I have been using Brightland
breathe. I look at that blue sea. olive oil, which is crisp and delicious.
In our family the Jewish holidays are The best gift I ever got arrived from a
in September, then it’s Halloween, we homeware company and there was a
have 30 people for Thanksgiving, my fork and something for the blender,
husband’s birthday is at the start of something for the turkey. I thought it
December, then it’s the holidays. It’s a was the weirdest gift, but then I realised
K Augustinus
Bader
The Cream,
from £65
for 15ml,
augustinus
bader.com
I Sam
McKnight
Lazy Girl dry
shampoo,
£19, sam
mcknight.
com
I Comme Si
Cashmere
sock selection,
£161,
commesi.com
M Merci
Linen sheets,
£109, merci-
merci.com
I Soho Home
Women’s silk
pyjamas, £310,
sohohome.com
B Jones Road
Beauty The
Mascara, £24,
jonesroad
beauty.com
K Anya
Hindmarch
In-flight case,
£225, anya
hindmarch.
com
6 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
‘I’m kind of
a gift
hoarder’
Simone Rocha | The London-based
designer loves to engage the intellect
as well as the heart with practical
tokens and reminders of home
I
t has always been very important
for me to break at Christmas and
step away from my London studio. I
usually spend a little less than two
weeks in Ireland, visiting family
and friends. There is a pub in Dublin
called Grogan’s that I go to pretty much
every Christmas Eve, as does half of
Dublin. We also spend some time in the
countryside, either in County Cork or in
Kerry, but always in the west of Ireland,
looking out to the Atlantic Ocean.
I personally love this time of year. I
think it’s a real reset. I feel the season
changing, that shift to the end of the
year with the anticipation of the year to
come. I always try to swim in the sea on
New Year’s Day as a cleanse.
This year my family is a little bigger as
I had a second daughter, so we will be
splitting Christmas between Ireland and
London for the first time. I live in De
Beauvoir, in east London, and I’m look-
M Frédéric Malle
Carnal Flower by
Dominique Ropion, £172, M Nobuyoshi Araki
B Choosing Keeping fredericmalle.co.uk
Christmas ornament, £95, ‘There’s a Camera Between
choosingkeeping.com B Astier de Villatte Man and Woman’, £80, B Kojaque
Regence large deep plate, climaxbooks.com Black hoodie, £35,
£78, astierdevillatte.com kojaque.pias.com
K ’Machine
Learning
Irish Poetry’
Book, £10, I Apple I Unison 36
passage iPad Mini, standard
tomb.com £479, pastels, £114,
johnlewis.com cornelissen.
com
I Daunt Books
Paperback subscription,
£180, dauntbooks.co.uk
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 7
to buy new’
tures of my sister and I when we were
kids and put it in a nice frame. You also
don’t have to buy new, you can add a
DIY touch.
For secondhand finds, Portobello
Market is great, but go on a Friday, Sat-
urday can be very busy. You could pick
up a British military parka coat, a shear-
ling, a bit of a vintage tee. JoJo’s General
Nicholas Daley | When not crafting clothes to Store is a good vintage dealer, based in
Sheffield, I’ve bought things for myself
there and I like to support a northern
gift to mum and dad, the menswear designer vintage dealer.
When it comes to actually going to
shops I generally go to Soho for records
heads to Portobello Market, Soho and Sheffield at Rough Trade, Sounds of the Universe
and Phonica, and the Japan Centre near
Leicester Square have a great selection
F
of teas and Japanese snacks — the
or Christmas this year I will be and dad’s parsnips, potatoes and brussel matcha bread loaf is my favourite.
going home to where I grew up sprouts. With my mum being from Dun- I also love New Beacon Books in
in Leicester, getting together dee in Scotland she makes a lot of jams
with family, relaxing, and lis-
tening to music: we have this
and chutneys and my sister and I get
involved as she tries to pass on the tradi-
‘If I want to feel festive and
album of really bad reggae covers of tion. Our take on the traditional Christ- in touch with my Celtic
Christmas songs. Normally the Christ- mas dinner has influences from both
mas period is cut a bit short for me by sides of the family, as my dad is from roots I might wear my kilt
men’s fashion week in January but now Jamaica. My mum might make jerk hose from Lochcarron’
it’s moved and merged with the lamb with some Caribbean spices, my
women’s so I’m hoping to spend a day or dad might make rice and peas, or maybe
two longer with family. Last Christmas turkey, with vegetarian stuffing — I’m Stroud Green, who have specialised in
was challenging with plans being vegetarian. There’s always a bit of Scot- African and Caribbean literature since
changed, or not being able to meet up. tish shortbread kicking about. 1966. It has one of the richest selection
My mum and dad have an allotment If I want to feel a bit festive and in of books exploring the black diaspora
and have been growing a lot of vegeta- touch with my Celtic roots I might wear from cultural theorist Stuart Hall to
bles so the year before last we had mum my kilt hose from Lochcarron of Scot- Ghanaian photographer James Barnor.
land. They come up For me it’s important to support other
past the calf, a bit like black-owned businesses or businesses
football socks. I nor- started by people from minority back-
mally just wear them grounds. We are currently collaborating
with my trousers with an incense brand called Cremate,
because I am saving the started by Junior Adesanya who
kilt for my wedding day interned with me. He creates some
in August. But they amazing notes into room sprays and
aren’t something that I incense. I work with incense burning
bust out on a regular and music playing in the studio so hav-
basis, it’s nostalgia. ing the right environment is important.
We do try to keep a As told to Carola Long
limit on the presents,
and I always like to Nicholas Daley launched his eponymous
make gifts. I have made label in 2015. Of Scottish and Jamaican
my mum bespoke tar- heritage, he explores the idea of multi-
tan dresses and jackets culturalism within the British identity. He
from leftover fabric, works with international artisans to create
my dad always gets bespoke textiles and fabrics for every
something from the collection, such as the Japanese wax resist
range. I also like a pattern in his spring/summer 2020
present to have a func- Nicholas Daley, photographed in London — Lydia Goldblatt collection Blue Quilt.
M Haeckels Bacilli
gift set, £120,
haeckels.co.uk
M Cremate Incense
range, Middle Way tin,
B Fortnum & Mason Traditional Dundee £20, cremate.london
cake, £19, fortnumandmason.com
K Prick
Cereus candle
and cactus
combo, £30,
prickldn.com
K Nicholas M Benjamin
Daley Zephaniah ‘The Life
Forgotten Fury and Rhymes of
scarf, £40, Benjamin
nicholasdaley. Zephaniah’, £10,
net benjamin
zephaniah.com
K Gilles
Peterson
‘Lockdown
FM:
Broadcasting
in a
Pandemic’,
£40,
worldwidefm.
ochre.store
8 ★ FTWeekend 4 December/5 December 2021
‘I like to
M Moro Dabron M Mikaela Lyons
Herbarium Lioness double coin
candle, £135, pendant, £195,
moro-dabron.com mikaelalyons.com
give vintage
things’ B Claudia Rankin
Swan sculpture, £620,
wsjgallery.com
K Beata Heuman
‘Every Room Should Sing’,
signed copy, £45,
shoppa.beataheuman.com
there at 6am with headlights on. There Beata Heuman, cial, so you can get something really per-
Beata Heuman | For the Swedish interior designer, are also auctions which you can find
online on The Saleroom.
photographed at
home in London
sonalised.
For me, I really want this intaglio case
For the person who has everything, — Chris Gloag
from Pentreath & Hall. And sunglasses.
London’s markets and antique shops are the place the trick is to find that something they Also a jacket from Loretta Caponi in
wouldn’t be able to find themselves. If Italy, they have most beautiful fashion
it’s vintage or antique or there’s only one shop [in Florence]. It’s sold on Matches-
to find one-of-a-kind gifts for a classic Christmas of them, that’s a good place to look, or Fashion, but I prefer what they have in
something personalised. [Artist] Alma the shop, all tailored in Italy, very old- M London Velvet The
Berrow she does these little ceramic fashioned. I saw this incredible robe
I
Oversized Corduroy Tote,
pieces you can commission, that’s a nice when I was there last week - there are £235, londonvelvet.co.uk
grew up on a farm in the south of of the 24th, which is the day we cele- way of doing something personal that’s beautiful smock dresses too. My hus- B Beata Heuman
Sweden, which is where I’ve spent brate [Christmas] in Sweden. We’re unique. Or Suermondt. She buys old band got me something from there last Florentine coasters, £216,
most Christmases in my life. Nor- quite strict, we watch each person secondhand [knits], unravels them and year. shoppa.beataheuman.com
mally we stay with my parents but unwrap each present. makes them into [cardigans, hats and The best gift I ever received was this
we just got a house there. There’s a I have several times a year a recurring jumpers]. There are a lot of people on amazing prawn earring from my hus-
small village with a little church, which nightmare where’s it’s time to give Instagram now doing things really spe- band, from a Parisian jewellery designer
we go to with my three siblings. presents and I realise I’ve forgotten to called Yvonne Léon. I wear it almost all
[Between us] we have eight little chil- get them. It haunts me, not being organ- of the time, it’s just quite special, you
dren ages two to seven, it’s a bit stressful ised. The best thing is to buy nice things don’t see what it is til you look quite
at times, but also really sweet. I’ve lived as you see them throughout the year, or closely, it’s a nice bit of jewellery but
in London for about 17 years and don’t at least jot down ideas on your phone quite fine in a way, also feels kind of
go back to Sweden a huge amount, but relaxed. And I like that there’s only one,
Christmas is always one of those times I
go home and embrace the family tradi-
‘The best thing is to it’s a bit more cool.
Last year I completely failed with my
M Loretta Caponi Guido
double-breasted jacket,
tions. buy nice things as you children’s gifts. I had really beautiful
£1,361, shop.lorettacaponi.it
It’s a lot about food. For lunch we do a dresses and nice books, things I really
smorgasbord — cold ham, herring, see them throughout like, but they loved things they could B Campbell-Rey Cosima
bread, schnapps, and some warmer the year’ play with. Murano coupes, £630
things like meatballs, potato gratin with This year I bought this ice cream shop, for six, 1stdibs.com
anchovies in it. My [English] husband all made out of wood, you can scoop ice
doesn’t like it at all. On the 23rd, the day you can look at later. cream out and hand out menus, I really
before our big celebration on Christmas I do really like giving vintage things. recommend it for anyone with toddlers.
Eve, we always cook the ham — and then At markets or antique shops you can get As told to Lauren Indvik
we do mashed potatoes, green cabbage, something unique and it doesn’t cost
all these things I’ve eaten all my life and that much. Beata Heuman is an interior designer
really love. There’s mulled wine, ginger- In London, Portobello Road Market is celebrated for her elegant, imaginative
bread and ginger snaps. When decorat- quite good for little trinkets, also a shop spaces informed by her Swedish heritage
ing for the holidays, I like to keep things in Chiswick called The Old Cinema has and early tutelage under the outré British
simple and classic, with a Christmas tree good things for home. There’s a market designer Nicky Haslam. This year she B DR Harris & Co. Lavender
and white candles. at Kempton [held the second and last published her first book with Rizzoli, bath soap, £33, drharris.co.uk
We exchange presents in the evening Tuesday every month], I literally go ‘Every Room Should Sing’
G
two about sturdy soles. shorts feature a better time for a crampons — and what to do
rowing up in a tiny village Its Mountain 600 is a an elasticated neck warmer that if there’s an avalanche.
on the wild, western coast boot-sneaker hybrid, waist that not only protects B Reebok Beatnik
of Cumbria, Christmastime softer and lighter than most boots, allows for extra movement. It against biting winds, but shoes, £90, K Pro Cycling Trumps Climbs
for me is as much about the and they need no breaking-in. also offers pleat-front trouser also double ups as a face reebok .co.uk edition, £9.99, etsy.com
outdoors as it is about versions that are chic even out of covering. This cozy version from RoToTo, With padded water-resistant Inspire wanderlust with a
gifting, family gatherings and gorging I Parks Project socks (two-pack), context. purveyor of the best Japanese socks, is uppers and a velcro back, these mountain version of Top Trumps
on miniature chocolates while watching £15, parksproject.us not itchy and won’t slip down. mules keep feet dry from dewy that’s as fun played at home as
Arnold Schwarzenegger in Jingle All Outdoorsy clobber with give-back I Taion V-neck button grass when padding across to in a tent during a storm.
The Way — arguably one of the best initiatives to protect America’s down gilet, £61, I Girls of Dust alpaca wool the bathroom. Wet socks in a
festive films ever made. National parks; so far it has workingclassheroes.co.uk vest, £200, tent are no fun. M Story MFG Growing Peace T-
On the morning of December 25, to contributed $2m. Sales proceeds The higher you ascend, the eatdustclothing.com shirt, £96, storymfg.com
shake off the after-effects of Christmas help fund trips for America’s hotter you get; a sleeveless, A sleeveless chunky I Black+Blum This baggy unisex
Eve in the tinsel-festooned pubs, we underprivileged. slimline puffer is a key part of knit is my go-to food flask, £25, tee by sustainable
wrap up and stroll to the beachfront to any mountain arsenal, thanks after a walk — in black-blum.com British brand Story
get wind-whipped by the Irish Sea, I Object Beauty soap bars to its easy layering under my non-expert Nothing warms MFG is screen-
before the day’s multi-household kit £40, objectbeauty.com waterproofs. Keeps you opinion, it helps the cockles up printed using
socialising begins. When hand sanitiser just toasty when the body temperature the top of a fell planet-friendly,
Now living in London, I look forward won’t cut it, these zero- outerwear has to come off. reacclimatise. This boxy vest is like a hot and water-based
to the festive hikes even more than the plastic, natural soaps are as easily worn with roll necks hearty lunch. Neat ink.
festivities; getting above the clouds and ideal for a backpack — and I Millican duffle bag £195, and jeans as it is over PJs in a tent. in design, this flask keeps food hot
feeling the earth underfoot is a cleanse it comes with a nifty tin too. homeofmillican.com for six hours, or cool for eight. Also good
from a life spent surrounded by This overnight bag from Lake I Snow Peak field for those office days when you can’t
concrete. And, having enjoyed an entire I Arc’teryx Beta jacket, £350, District brand Millican barista, £64, face a store-bought sandwich.
summer schlepping up some sort of workingclassheroes.co.uk makes packing easy. snowpeak.co.uk
mountain, I’ve perfected the kit that Arc’teryx’s boxy designs are With a 28-litre capacity, Snow Peak’s field I One-day winter skills
works well up a mountain peak and sleek enough for the city. Shy it opens like a holdall barista set packs course, £95,
looks good in a South London pub, in away from navy or black and for easy access and flat for handy lakelandmountain-
order to satisfy my dual lifestyle — and opt for an Instagrammable comes with three transportation, so guides.co.uk
minimal closet space. (Top tip: Uniqlo’s colourway that would make waterproof packing it saves on A winter skills course is sure
Heattech roll necks, £15, are the you more visible (in a worst-case cubes to keep kit and cupboard space to be an unforgettable gift.
ultimate foundational layer.) Stay scenario) to Mountain Rescue. clothing separate. at home too. Hikers will ascend snowy fells
toasty out there.
4 December/5 December 2021 ★ FTWeekend 9
Magic potions
made without husband is a convert
aluminium, parabens or too, despite thinking
sulphates, in mousse is a pudding
compostable packagaing. and not an ’80s styling
My favourite scent is product having a
fresh cotton and sea salt, welcome upgrade.
but there are more exciting
ones such as sandalwood K Tim Lake beaker,
and patchouli. £25, toa.st
Beauty | If you know someone well, make-up is a M Dior Backstage face
Created by Wales-based
potter Tim Lake, this
M Westman Atelier Le Box, £106, brush, £38, dior.com stoneware beaker is just
risky but rewarding present — just don’t stray westman-atelier.com While this little brush the thing for holding
Make-up artist Gucci Westman’s clean might not have the toothbrushes and
beauty range is a fashion insider elegance of a long-handled toothpaste, and would
too far from their colour palette, says Carola Long favourite, and the Lip Suede palette is a version, it makes applying give a crafty, artisanal
real beauty bag multitasker, offering foundation or tinted touch to any
four flattering, customisable colours, moisturiser a breeze and bathroom.
I
including poppy red and a deep gives a flawless finish. A
’ve always appreciated getting Not that I’m averse to practical prod- aubergine. complexion game changer. K Verden
“lotions and potions” for Christ- ucts, as long as they are lovely to use. If D’Orangerie
mas, as my mum would describe someone had introduced me to Wild’s M Lumene Arctic Hydra hand and
them. And as any lover of beauty refillable deodorant for example, Care Moisture and Relief body wash,
products knows, there’s more to before I discovered it myself, I would Rich Night Balm, £27, £35,
indulgent unguents than meets the eye - have been chuffed. Prioritising lookfantastic.com verden.world
or the nose. A jar of aromatic bath salts things that can be refilled and My go-to moisturiser in winter, this Meaning ‘the
is an invitation to relax, decadently, and recycled is important too. world’ or ‘the
a message to the recipient to take time Lastly, the big question in Earth’ in
for themselves. An ornate make-up pal- beauty gifting: to-go gift set or indi- Danish, Verdun
ette or luxurious red lipstick, given to a vidual products? I’d go with a smaller is a new range
good friend, signals you know that they set of say two products that will def- of bath and
know how to have fun. initely get used, rather than a body products
Bath and shower products are the saf- random assortment in too from founders of cult skincare brand
est bet; make-up is more risky. But if much packaging. Or select a Votary. Using fresh natural fragrances
you know someone really well, and dis- few things that can be individ- (D’Orangerie is invigorating and
cuss products regularly, then choosing ually wrapped - perhaps in citrusy), products are formulated to
the right shades to suit them can be a some of Pentreath and Hall’s match skin pH to prevent drying.
sign that you understand their taste. chic malachite or marble paper. Packaging is recycled and recyclable.
Just look closely at the shades they wear What’s not to like about unwrap-
and don’t stray far from that palette. ping several treats?