Fashion draping and dress forms

Introduction:
Fashion draping is the oldest method used since the 18th century. Currently, it is considered to be an
important part in fashion designing. Fashion Draping is the process of positioning and pinning fabric on a
standard size dress form to develop the structure of a garment design. Many types and sizes of dress forms
for women, men and children are made to fulfill the requirement.

A dress can be draped using a design sketch as a basis, or a fashion designer can play with the way fabric
falls to create new designs at the start of the dress design process. After draping, the toile fabric is removed
from the dress form which was used to create the sewing draped pattern for making fashionable dress to suit
an individual. In U.S.A. designers use very light weight fabrics, which is called as 'toile', and U.K. designers
call it as 'muslin' cloth.

The techniques for draping fabric require the knowledge of the fabric's characteristics. Designers/drapers
must have the knowledge to distinguish among different fabrics which will enable them to select the most
appropriate fabric for flow and line of each design. Designers must devote time to collect swatches while
shopping and catalogue them by width content. In this way a personal reference library can also be created
and developed.

Fabrics used for draping:

Fabrics and clothes must relate to our lifestyles and our active lifestyles are made of many different fabrics
such as stretchy knitted fabrics, chiffon, georgette, organza, sheer cottons, voile, and light weight silk fabrics
are most suitable for fashion draping purpose. Drape ability plays an important role in making sophisticated
draped garments. Mostly, very light weight to medium weight fabric is suitable for draped garments.

Garments made of woven goods are usually draped in muslin or an inexpensive fabric where the grain and
cross grain are quite visible .The quality and hand of the muslin should represent the texture and
characteristics of the actual fabric used for the garment design. Soft muslin will simulate the draping quality
of natural or synthetic silk, and knitted cloth.

Medium-weight muslin will simulate the draping quality of wool and medium-weight cottons. Coarse
muslin will simulate the draping quality of heavy weight wool and cottons. Also, canvas muslin will
simulate the draping qualities of heavy weight fabrics such as denim or imitation fur.

Consider the large collection of fabrics available before beginning any draping steps. The fabric selected for
a garment drape greatly influences the finished look. Analyze and understand the structure and
characteristics of the fabric to create the proper ease, hand feel and balance of the garment or pattern drape.
Approach each design with a positive attitude and a clear fashion sense.
Garments made of knitted fabrics should be draped in less expensive knit fabric. However, the sample knit
should have the same stretch value as in the fabric selected for the finished garment. The right side of the
front dress form is used to drape the front basic pattern or garment. This procedure may vary, however, this
is the standard rule when fitting and draping any type of garment. In simple words, draping technique means
the way a fabric hangs in a dress form as well as on the human body.

Dress forms
A dress form is a three-dimensional shape used for designing and displaying clothing. Dressmakers and
designers use dress forms to work with fabric pieces to construct a clothing item of a specific size, while
fashion merchandisers may display finished garments on a dress form

Difference between Mannequin and Dress Forms

Dress forms differ from full-size mannequins in that they don't have a head or limbs. Dress forms model a
female figure from the neck to the top of the thighs and the form is fixed on to a wood or metal stand. While
the mannequins are the complete figures of human being, basically used for displaying purpose, rather than
designing.

Importance of dress forms

1. Dress form is must when designing with draping method.
2. Because of being three dimensional in shape, it provides better understanding and greater
opportunity in designing by draping method, because we can change the draping style many times
before cutting the fabric,.
3. Clothing store owners may prefer having some dress forms rather than all mannequins as they are
easier to dress since there is no head or limbs.
4. Dress forms are also easier for fashion designers and merchandisers to transport than full-size
mannequins for travel to designer shows.
5. Dress forms are usually lightweight and may be made of wire, rattan or foam although most are
made from layered paper materials covered with cloth.
6. People who make their own dress forms often use foam. Foam pads may also accompany
purchased dress forms so that extra sizes can be created.
7. Many, but not all, dress form are adjustable in size.
8. A dress form may be a basic ladies size i.e small, medium, large or extra large and then be
adjustable within those ranges to different sizes. For example, a ladies size small mannequin dress
form may have adjustments for sizes between 0 to 6 or 7. The fashion merchandiser would adjust the
size to the one that most closely fits his or her display outfit and may pin excess fabric at the back of
the form to adjust the fit.
9. The cloth surface of dress forms is designed to hold pins well. Dressmakers sew sections of
garments and then pin them onto the dress form to adjust the fit to the particular garment section
Advantage of draping

 Draping is advantageous because without cutting the fabric one can know the entire effect of a
garment rather than just minute details.
 It is a three dimensional method, the design can be visualized while draping and any necessary
changes can also be made.
 Dress form can be of particular size or of standard measurements.
 This helps the designer to achieve the difficult designs by draping different fabrics. For designs
such as cowls this method alone can offer good results.
In draping we can see the features of garment, and characteristics postures in relation to fabric and time into
which we are going drape it, and immediately we can sense the harmony between draped fabric and wearer.

Principles of paper patterns

To obtain an accurate draft, use a sharp pencil, and a ruler for, drawing straight lines. To get the corners at
right angles, keep scale or set squares ready. Before drafting, it is important to understand the procedures
and instructions clearly, and to have practice in drawing a well balanced pattern with smooth curves and
straight lines. You must understand the following principles before starting to attempt drafting. Patterns
must be made larger than body measurements to allow for freedom of movement, ease of action and comfort
in wearing. Recommended ease allowance for various parts of the body are listed below.

For all the garment the ease allowance must always be left before cutting out the pattern. For symmetric
designs where the right and left sides are alike, paper pattern for half front and half back only need to be
made. For the bodice, start the drafting with the back part. For sleeves, full pattern must be drafted.

It is better to draft the primary or basic pattern blocks - plain bodice, plain sleeve, plain skirt without seam
allowances. When this is done, be sure to leave seam allowances while laying out the pattern on the material
at the time of cutting. If you do not have much experience in cutting, and want to avoid the risk of cutting
without seam allowance you may add seam allowances to your paper pattern itself after completing the
draft.

 The following construction detailed information should be recorded and marked clearly.
 Name of each piece of pattern (bodice front, bodice back, sleeve etc).
 Number of pieces to be cut with each pattern piece. (For example, for a back open  dress, you have
to cut 1 front, 2 backs and sleeves).

 If seam allowances are not included in the draft, this should be mentioned. If seam allowances are included,
seam lines and cutting lines should be clearly shown.  Lengthwise or straight grain line should be drawn
with a red pencil as shown on all pattern pieces. This line indicates that the pattern should be kept on the
cloth in such a way that the line is parallel to the length of the cloth or the selvedges, it is usually drawn
parallel to the centre front and centre back edges of the pattern.
 Provide matching notches or balance marks if necessary along seams to show which seams are to be joined
together.Centre front and centre back line should be marked. It is advantageous to cut outward notches at
centre front and centre back of pattern pieces because at the time of assembling the garment, notches on
collars can be matched to notches on the neck line of garment etc. Fold lines should be clearly shown. Fold
lines appear along centre front or centre back, edges and sometimes along hems to show where the material
is to be folded. Dart markings, pleat markings etc. should be clearly shown.