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March 2021
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Contents | C&T ®
March 2021 | Volume 136, number 3
6 Editor’s Note
Consumer Predictors
7 Industry Insight
A Turmeric Take on Lip Balm
7 [video] Burt’s Bees Gives

Lip Balm a Turmeric Twist
36
64 Ad Index
Market Intelligence
8 Product Roundup
12 New Ingredients & Technologies
13 [podcast] Textured Hair Repair by

Vegan, Gluten-free Keratin
16 Expert Opinions:
Bright Spots for Beauty
Prestige Prospects, Sustainable, Solid Forms,
‘Clean,’ Customized, Natural and Food-inspired
Regulatory
26 20 EU Regulatory Update:
New Year, New Regulations
46
Brexit and UK Cosmetic Legislation
by E. Meredith, Ph.D.
Research
26 Combinatorial Skin Care
Heredity × Experience = Enhanced
Product Customization
by S. Barton and K. Lee-Thompson
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 3 | March 2021
CT2103_TOC_Masthead_DM.indd 2 2/24/21 11:24 AM

Editor’s note | C&T ®
Contents | C&T ®
48 EDITORIAL
Content Director
Editor in Chief
The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource
Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com

Katie Anderson | 1-630-344-6077/kanderson@allured.com
Managing Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer | 1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Assistant Editor Michele Behrens | 1-630-344-6032/mbehrens@allured.com
News Editor Hannah Fink | 1-630-344-6070/hfink@allured.com
54
ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager Jolly Patel | 1-630-344-6061/jpatel@allured.com
Advertising Production Manager Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito
Customer Service 1-847-559-7558/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
Testing DESIGN
Design Manager Kim Fry
36 Lasting Impression Senior Graphic Designer James Fergus
A Consumer-centric Approach to Production Manager Bryan Crowe
Measure Transfer-proof Lipstick
by C. Messaraa and M. Mangan CORPORATE
Partner & CEO George Fox
37 From the Vault: Two Decades of Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Director of Events Maria Prior
Transfer-resistant Lipstick Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero
46 Glowing Review
Monk Fruit Encourages Epigenetic Well Aging
by A. Roca, Ph.D., et al.
OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
Formulating
Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Face & Body Northern California spa expo and conference
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Face & Body Southeast spa expo and conference
Global Cosmetic Industry magazine Beauty Launchpad
Beauty Accelerate MedEsthetics
48 Formulating Forum: Playful Textures Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
Flavorcon
Dayspa
Nailpro
Developing Interactive Makeup World Perfumery Congress Nailpro San Jose
Skin Inc. magazine Nailpro Pasadena
by N. Lionetti Face & Body Midwest spa expo and conference
54 Fruitful Skin Benefits

For Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/subscribe
Litchi Peel Extract for Natural Brightening For both the US and internationally, telephone: 1-847-559-7558
(8 AM–4:30 PM Central, Monday–Friday) Fax: 1-847-291-4816
by N. Lourith, Ph.D., and M. Kanlayavattanakul, Ph.D. E-mail: customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009
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July/Aug., Sept., Oct. and Nov./Dec. by Allured Business Media.
Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite D, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403.
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Peer-reviewed content, designated by this icon, ensures
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this publication.
Copyright 2021: Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.

Cosmetics & Toiletries and C&T are registered trademarks of Allured Publishing Corporation.
CT2103_TOC_Masthead_DM.indd 4 2/24/21 11:25 AM

Upgrading skin elasticity with
EleVastin™
Free from Gravity
A promoter of skin elasticity

Using cutting-edge 3D models and analytical techniques,
EleVastinTM has proved to efficiently boost the neosynthesis
of functional elastic fibers.
In-house spheroid model

A specific model of 3D scaffold-free microtissue has
been developed in our cell culture laboratory to explore
the biomechanical properties of skin tissues treated with
EleVastinTM (confirmed in vivo).
Control EleVastinTM 0.1%
Elastic fibers
*** p<0.001
density
+125%
***
60
****
50
Apparent stiffness (kPa)
40
3-fold less stiff
30
Tissue stiffness
20
**** p<0.0001
10
0
Control EleVastin™ 0.1%
Claims
Promotes and protects skin elasticity
Reduces the impact of gravity
Limits skin sagging and redesigns facial oval
Reduces deep and vertical wrinkles
https://www.gattefosse.com/personal-care-product-finder/cosmetic-active-ingredients
People make our name

Editor’s Note | C&T ®
Consumer Predictors
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Managing Editor
rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Scientific
Advisory Board
Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
Jean-Christophe Choulot
Caudalíe
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.

Dermatology
Among the “7 Trend Drivers” Mintel has identified as a prediction model for
1
Consulting Services
changing markets in 2021 (and beyond), four—well-being, value, technology and
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
surroundings—are most relevant to cosmetics and personal care. These translate to GlaxoSmithKline
trends and “key takeaways for success in 2021,” outlined by the firm as follows.
Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
Well-being encompasses a “beautiful mind,” wherein cosmetics combat stress TA Evans LLC/TRI Princeton
and anxiety, build confidence and security, and reinforce holistic wellness. Value
S. Peter Foltis
refers to consumers re-evaluating spending (money and time), quality and Independent Consultant
convenience, and trading up and down across categories. Consumers also place
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
new value on the essentials and experiences, the firm reports. Mindy S. Goldstein, Ph.D. Consulting
Technology comprises how consumers discover and purchase products. Here,
John Jiménez
loyalty is built through layers of integrated digital experiences and personalized Belcorp Colombia
touchpoints. These capture lifestyle needs, e.g., authenticity and transparency, in
Karl Laden, Ph.D.
product offerings. Alpa Cosmetics
Finally, surroundings entail what Mintel has dubbed a “beauty eco-lution”—
Howard I. Maibach, M.D.
consumers emerging from quarantine with a new mindset. They place a heavier University of California, San Francisco
focus on risk avoidance, safety and efficacy, and the eco-ethical impact of their
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D.
choices; i.e., buying local, “cleaner” and more deliberately. Allergan/Skinmedica
This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries nicely fits these market predictors. On
Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.
Page 46, monk fruit is described for well aging, positive emotions and a healthy Procter & Gamble
glow in skin. “Formulating Forum” on Page 48 explains how to create playful
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D.
product textures for engaging experiences, and a diagnostic tool is explored on Coty-Lancaster
Page 26 to marry heredity with lifestyle for product customization.
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.
Mask-wearing behaviors have elevated interest in transfer-proof cosmetics, Industrial Consulting Research
described on Page 36. And on Page 54, upcycled litchi peel is shown to brighten
Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D.
skin while also providing protective antioxidant properties. LVMH Recherche
Consumer needs are moving targets, especially during uncertain times. But
Steve Schnittger, Ph.D.
there’s one constant: the human factor. So if all else fails, we can look within. The Estée Lauder Companies
Reference Ron Sharpe

Amway
1. https://bit.ly/3aTD93s
Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D.
Consultant
David C. Steinberg
Beauty Accelerate Virtual Returns Steinberg & Associates
Beauty Accelerate, a co-production of Cosmetics & Toiletries and Global Cosmetic Industry, will Peter Tsolis
return again in its virtual format on Oct. 19-21, 2021. Presentations, panels and roundtables The Estée Lauder Companies
will headline innovators in cosmetics R&D, ingredients, technology, packaging, manufacturing,
Russel Walters, Ph.D.
retail, marketing and more who are leading beauty’s resurgence. The event platform will feature Johnson & Johnson
an upgraded digital experience with an intuitive dashboard, on-demand viewing options and
enhanced interactivity with presenters. Join our list to be the first to know as new speakers, Claudie Willemin
features and more are added. Independent Consultant
Sign up at: https://bit.ly/3aue941 Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.

Coty, Inc.
6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
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Industry Insight | C&T ®
A Turmeric Take on Lip Balm

Since ancient times, plants have adapted sophisticated
mechanisms to ensure their survival. These functional-
ities have been brought to light under the lens of modern
research technologies.
For example, some plants produce ampholytic
macromolecular polysaccharides to absorb more water
than typical polysaccharides. Extremophiles may produce
secondary metabolites, glycoprotein stress modifiers, and
osmotically active amino acids and sugars to survive their
habitats. Perhaps the most common adaptive chemistries
in plants in general are antioxidants.
We still have much to learn from our botanical neigh-
bors but science is already translating what we know to
benefit human life across sectors, cosmetics among them.
Recent work by Burt’s Bees provides a good example.
Turmeric, known for its anti-inflammatory and
antioxidant effects, was integrated into a healing lip balm,
which was shown to improve the product’s benefits.
Hemali Gunt (HG), Ph.D., head of clinical scientific
affairs for Burt’s Bees, explained in a recent interview.
Following is an adapted excerpt.
C&T: Why use turmeric in a lip balm?

HG: Most lip balms contain moisturizing ingredients and
emollients, which form an occlusive barrier on the lips and
provide hydration; and that’s good—that is what we want
on a regular basis. But when you are treating extremely
severe dry lips, with cracking
and chapping going on, you want
something additional.
So why turmeric? Because when
there is irritation in the lips, that is
a low-grade inflammation. You want
Video
something that is going to soothe that
inflammation. And in general, our
skin is metabolically active, so there
Burt’s Bees Gives Lip Balm a Turmeric Twist
is also free radical generation hap-
pening. With both inflammation and
free radical damage going on, that is
where the antioxidative properties of
turmeric come into play.
That is the reason we chose this
ingredient and added it to the other
moisturizing ingredients—to be able
to heal and repair the lips quickly
and in a natural manner. This was
the rationale behind the addition of
the ingredient.
Vol. 136, No. 3 | March 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® |7
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Product Roundup [Ingredients, Equipment & Services]
Highlighting innovative ingredients, services and products
Natpure Xtra Vitality JD Hydro Boost Silmer QT9-30-CG

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies Jojoba Desert Siltech
sensient-cosmetics.com/product/ jojobadesert.com/product/jd-hydro-boost/ siltech.com/industry-applications/
natpure-xtra-vitality/ JD Jojoba Boost (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Levan (and) personal-care/
Natpure Xtra Vitality (INCI: Rosmarinus Glucose (and) Fructose (and) Sucrose (and) Sodium Silmer QT9-30-CG (INCI: Polymethyl-
Officinalis Leaf Extract) is a botanical Citrate (and) Potassium Citrate (and) Citric Acid) is a silsesquioxane (and) Idododecane) offers
active that is proven through in vivo trials natural polysaccharide functional for anti-aging that the extended wear benefits of a silicone
to protect against oxidative stress from UV enables cross-action performance. It provides a deep Q resin in a convenient carrier absent of
and indoor/outdoor pollution. The ingredi- moisturization effect, skin cell rejuvenation aid and cyclomethicones. It provides a soft, silky
ent is extracted using Sensient's patented wrinkle reduction, and demonstrates “biome-friendly” feel to color cosmetics, lipstick and skin
Phytoclean subcritical water process to qualities. It penetrates the upper epidermal layers of care products, and a barrier for maxi-
eliminate the need for solvents such as the skin to promote the activation of extracellular matrix mum transfer-resistance properties to
hexane, acetone or ethanol. mechanisms and collagen-1 secretion. both water- and oil-based formulations.
Bioyouth-EGT Pro
Bloomage Biotechnology Corp. Ltd.
bloomagebioactive.com/products3-e/typeid/2.
html
Bioyouth-EGT Pro (INCI: Ergothioneine (and) Tricholoma
Matsutake Mycelium Ferment Extract/Tricholoma
Matsutake Extract (and) Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluro-
nate (and) Trehalose) is obtained by multi-fermentation
of Hericium erinaceum and Tricholoma matsutake,
spray-dried together with microHA (MW < 5000 Da)
and trehalose. This ingredient protects the DNA and
mitochondria in skin cells and provides antioxidant,
anti-photoaging, UV, dark spot and crow’s feet reduc-
tion; and increases skin moisture and elasticity.
Cetacene
Campo Malay Herb Extracts Vevy Europe S.p.A.
Campo Research vevy.com
campo-research.com Cetacene (INCI: Acetylated Glycol
Campo Malay herb extracts (INCIs: Vary) Stearate) is of botanical origin and a
are natural raw materials developed spe- safe multifunctional, non-conventional
cifically for cosmetic use. Through a care- wax with plasticizing, homogenizing,
fully controlled regime, complex extraction dispersing and foam-controlling proper-
and decolorization processes, the extracts ties, for a wide range of formulations.
have been developed to ensure the Cetacene can support emulsion stability
highest possible concentration of active to increase vehicle performance and
substances and consistent composition to confer a velvety sensorial touch to
of the specific actives. finished products.
CT2103_Roundup_fcx.indd 8 2/17/21 3:56 PM

Hydrogenator
Sophim
sophim.com
Sophim's Hydrogenator allows the
company to increase and refine its
squalane production. Squalane is
obtained by first extracting squalene
from olives, which is subject to
oxidation. As such, this is hydroge-
nated to produce squalane. With its
saturated carbon chain, the resulting
squalane demonstrates improved
stability in cosmetic formulations.
Wisegrade
Lipotrue Inc.
lipotrue.com/es/productos/wisegrade/
Wisegrade (INCI: Glycoproteins) is a plant granulocyte-
macrophage colony-stimulating factor (GM-CSF) that ac-
tivates MITF pathways, inducing endogenous antioxidants
to rebalance redox homeostasis, protecting the stem cell
pool, reactivating the melanosome cycle and reinforcing
melanosome integrity. Wisegrade provides antioxidant
protection, enhances gloss and regulates the amount of
gray hair in a natural, non-damaging way.
SantEnergy Emulium Illustro

Mibelle Biochemistry Gattefossé
mibellebiochemistry.com/ gattefosse.com/personal-care-
santenergytm textures/emulium-illustro
SantEnergy (INCI: Bioflavonoids (and) Emulium Illustro (INCI: Polyglyceryl-6
Pentylene Glycol (and) Alcohol (and) Water Polyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyc-
(Aqua)) is a polyphenol-rich extract that eryl-6 Polyricinoleate) is a natural and
is sustainably obtained by wild harvesting PEG-free w/o emulsifier that is highly
from the aerial parts of the Yerba santa compatible with pigments and able to
plant. It energizes the hair from the root create stable and fluid textures. Char-
through a caffeine-like effect and opti- acterized by its flexibility and perfor-
mally protects the follicles from oxidative mance, it is easy to use and does not
damage. This increases hair growth as need a co-emulsifier. Recommended
well as density. uses include foundations, lipsticks and
water-resistant sunscreens.
Kalinat DNA
Kalichem Srl
Empigen BKC 50 kalichem.it/
Innospec Performance Chemicals Pure sodium DNA with polymeric double helix structure,
innospec.com Kalinat DNA (INCI: Sodium DNA) is obtained through a
GMP standard production method. The DNA promotes a
Empigen BKC 50 (INCI: Benzalkonium lifting effect, anti-wrinkle, skin thickness and elasticity-
Chloride) is an aqueous solution of enhancing actions. Additionally, the ingredient promotes
benzalkonium chloride at ca. 50% skin regeneration through stem cell and fibroblast stimu-
in water. It is a cationic surfactant lation, and UV damage repair by modulating the skin's
and can be used as: an excipient in immune system.
drug formulations, a softening agent in
textiles or laundry, a dye leveling agent;
or an antistatic agent.
Vol. 136, No. 3 | March 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® |9
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Product Roundup
effisin LA natural Biochemical Range

schülke, inc. MilliporeSigma (part of the Merck KGaA,
schulke-us.com/CT321 Darmstadt, Germany family)
effisin LA natural (INCI: Levulinic Acid (and) Water (Aqua)) offers SigmaAldrich.com/biochemicals
effective natural protection against bacterial contamination for Explore our extensive offer of natural plant extracts, carbohydrates,
formulations. Sourced from non-GMO corn, it can be used in a wide detergents, buffers, lipids and fatty acids. We also offer assay kits for
variety of personal care products. It is a multifunctional ingredient the analysis of metabolites and enzymes. Our kits feature convenient,
and suitable for natural cosmetics in either leave-on, rinse-off or wet simple and highly-dependable assays. Reproducibility and high quality
wipe formulations. are at the core of our biochemicals.
SharoSENSE Plus 181-N IBR-Chill

Acme-Hardesty Company LucasMeyer Cosmetics
cosmeticsandtoiletries. by IFF
com/formulating/function/ lucasmeyercosmetics.
preservatives/A-Sense-of- com/en/our-showroom/
Natural-Protection- ibr-chill
571372901.html IBR-Chill (INCI: Glycerin (and)
SharoSENSE Plus 181-N (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Cistus
Maltol (and) Polyquaterni- Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem
um-80) is a natural, water-sol- Extract) is a pink rock-rose
uble preservative solution with extract organically grown in
uncompromised antimicrobial the Mediterranean desert.
efficacy at reduced use levels for personal care products. This preser- The ingredient biomimics
vative solution is based on natural maltol and suits a wide pH range. the effects of meditation to
Additionally, it has a Natural Origin Index ISO 16128 of 99.6%. deliver a cosmetic strategy to fight skin aging from anxiety, to improve
its appearance.
Calmnerv CR Supermol B
Shanghai Greaf Croda Inc.
Biotech Co., Ltd. bit.ly/3tFoMbS
greaf.com/ Supermol B (INCI: Bis-Di-
Calmnerv CR (INCI: glyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) is
Water (Aqua) (and) a 100% non-animal-derived
Butylene Glycol (and) lanolin alternative that
Citrus Reticu- delivers many of the benefits
lata (Tangerine) Fruit of traditional lanolin while
Extract) is a natural allowing formulators to meet
ingredient for anti- a vegan claim. This versatile
nerve hyperactivation, which helps to relieve skin discomforts such as semi-solid emollient can be
stinging, itching and burning, and strengthens skin tolerance. It is ex- used in anhydrous systems
tracted from Citrus reticulata using a patented technology. Additionally, as well as various emulsion types. It contains 92% USDA certified
it inhibits the expression, activation and downstream signals of TRPV1. biobased content.
CT2103_Roundup_fcx.indd 10 2/17/21 11:09 AM

IBR-CHILL™
MEDITATION
D0 D28
IN A BOTTLE
TO FIGHT
ANXI-AGING™ Reduces the appearance of
anxiety-related skin inflammation
D0 D28
IBR-Chill™ is an extract of pink rock-rose organically grown
in the Mediterranean desert developed to capture the
desert chill vibe.
It blocks the CRH-R1 receptor and biomimics the effects

of meditation by preventing NF-kB activation and related
pro-inflammatory cytokine production, to deliver a novel
cosmetic strategy to fight skin Anxi-Aging™ making it the
perfect active ingredient to improve the appearance of Reduces the appearance of
skin affected by stress and aging. stress-induced signs of aging
lucasmeyercosmetics.com

New Ingredients & Technologies
Featuring the latest products, ingredients, technologies, services, data and more
Antaron ECo Gel EchoTherm Model

Ashland CO50 Program-
Antaron ECo gel (INCI: mable HPLC Column
Ethylcellulose) is designed Chiller/Heater
to easily impart nature- Torrey Pines
derived water resistance Scientific, Inc.
to sunscreens and offer a This technology is ideal
lighter feel that is ideal for for chiral and biomedi-
gel, lotion, milk or spray cal chromatography in
formulas. In addition to which temperatures
sun care formulas, Antaron below ambient help
ECo gel can be applied in to preserve bioactivity. It can be used for stabilizing column
daily moisturizers, primers, temperatures from day-to-day at or near room temperatures for
foundations, BB/CC creams, repeatable results.
lipsticks and eye products.
Eyelight BH
CR&D
Eyelight BH (INCI: Adan-
sonia Digitata Seed Oil
(and) Helianthus Annuus
(Sunflower) Seed Oil (and)
Helichrysum Angustifolium
Flower Extract (and) Brassica
Liponate Jojoba 20
Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Vantage Specialty Chemicals
Sprout Extract) is capable Liponate Jojoba 20 (INCI: Jojoba Esters) is an oil-free,
of optimizing the blood flow jojoba-derived emollient for vegan formulations. It changes
around the eyes, reducing the sensorial profile of formulations to add softness,
swelling and hyperpigmentation. It acts against oxidative and inflamma- spreadability and a subtle thickness, resulting in a melting
tory processes, thereby helping to correct the redox balance of iron ions sensation upon application.
within the blood.
Kalama Sodium Benzoate Liquid Alpin Heilmoor Extract

Emerald Kalama Chemical Premium Organic
Kalama Sodium Benzoate Liquid (INCI: Sodium Benzoate) is a preserva- Alpin Heilmoor Extract (AHE) (INCI: Peat Extract) is a 100%
tive that incorporates Emerald’s Kalama Sodium Benzoate NF/FCC (INCI: natural, patented bioactive ingredient designed to address
Sodium Benzoate) into a solution-in-water form. All forms of the ingredi- sensitive skin concerns. This active is reportedly an alternative
ent are used as preservatives to inhibit the growth of bacteria, yeasts to charcoal, clay and iron oxide.
and molds in products up to a pH level of 7.
CT2103_New_Ingred_Tech_fcx.indd 12 2/17/21 1:16 PM

Jeecide Cap-7
Jeen International Corp.
Jeecide Cap-7 (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol (and) Glyceryl
Laurate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate) helps to maintain
product stability and shelf life naturally. It contrib-
utes antimicrobial activity against Gram-positive and
Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold in cosmetic
formulations while also offering emollient and skin
conditioning properties.
Kuleana CBD Collection
Kuleana
Kuleana CBD collection is blended with
antioxidant-rich macadamia or sunflower oils,
offered in Full Spectrum Hemp Extract with
Hawaiian Macadamia Oil; and Full Spectrum
Hemp Extract with Maui Sunflower Oil.
PPG Natural Malachite Extract

ColaTeric CAHS
Positive Products Group
Colonial Chemical
PPG Natural Malachite Extract (INCI:
Malachite Extract) is a liquid extract from ColaTeric CAHS (INCI: Sodium Cocoam-
malachite stone. It reportedly promotes phohydroxypropylsulfonate) is a mild,
healthy skin thanks to its bioavailable cop- biodegradable amphoteric surfactant
per. It also offers antioxidant protection to suitable for foaming cleansers. This
guard skin against environmental oxidative product lowers overall irritation when
used in formulations with commonly Powder-based Cannabis Emulsions
stress and fight damage to cells caused by Vertosa
free radicals. used primary surfactants.
These emulsions are available in two different
types: CBD Isolate and CBD Broad Spectrum,
Rainforest Blue both of which are THC-free and packed in a
Native Extracts nitrogen atmosphere to ensure long shelf life.
Rainforest Blue (INCI: Not With powder emulsions, product makers can
Provided), also known as develop cannabis products across a broader
rosewood or Dysoxylum range of categories.
fraserianum, contains a
fresh forest fragrance
profile as an eco-
conscious and natural
essential oil. It joins the
blue oil group with less
than ten species, including more commonly known Ger- PODCAST
man chamomile and blue tansy essential oils.
Waterin Plus
Clariant
Waterin Plus (INCI:
Saccharide Isomer-
ate (and) Water
(Aqua) Glycerin (and)
Sodium Levulinate
(and) p-Anisic Acid)
is an eco-friendly
moisturizer based on
a sugarcane-derived
carbohydrate complex
that reportedly mimics the water-holding carbohydrate
composition naturally found in skin’s stratum corneum.
Vol. 136, No. 3 | March 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 13
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New Ingredients & Technologies
PeptAIde 4.0 YSL Rouge Sur Mesure Powered FD&C Red 40 Lake and Altered Aqua
BASF Care Creations by Perso Koel Colours
PeptAIde 4.0 (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) L’Oréal FD&C Red 40 Lake (INCI: CI 16035) is one
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein) offers a safe and YSL Rouge Sur Mesure Powered by Perso is of several pigments launched by Koel in
nature-based remedy for hair and skin a beta launch from L’Oréal. This personal lip two collections: one for eye makeup, the
damage caused by “silent” inflammation. color device allows users to “print” their own other (Altered Aqua) for soap dispersions.
The ingredient has been clinically proven custom shades. This red lake applies to eye shadows; oth-
to counteract the negative effects of inflam- ers are offered for mascara and eyeliner.
mation to maintain skin and hair health.
Soft Focus Powders and Pearls Line Parsol ZX

Sandream Impact DSM
The line of Soft Focus Powders and Pearls (INCIs: Vary) is Parsol ZX (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane) is an inorganic UV
comprised of six mica-based, multilayered interference filter with a broad UVA-UVB absorption curve that also correlates with the
pearl (SD Soft) powders and pigments that have been blue light spectrum. With its balanced blend of nano and non-nano particles,
alternately coated with silica and titanium dioxide. this ingredient offers good transparency against tested benchmarks.
Rosewood Essential Oil Erisium

Praan Naturals Silab
Rosewood essential oil (INCI: Aniba Rosaeodora Erisium (INCI: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract) is an anti-aging active that
(Rosewood) Oil) is primarily comprised of linalool, a maintains cellular proteostasis. It achieves this by reactivating the
monoterpenol that reportedly makes the oil well-suited unfolded protein response (UPR) pathway, thereby reducing endoplasmic
for inclusion in formulations intended to support physical reticulum (ER) stress, limiting the inflammaging process and restoring
wellness and emotional balance. matrix dynamics—ultimately, providing an anti-aging response.
CT2103_New_Ingred_Tech_fcx.indd 14 2/17/21 1:16 PM

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EXPERT
OPINIONS
Bright Spots
for Beauty
Prestige Prospects,
Sustainable, Solid Forms,
‘Clean,’ Customized,
Natural and Food-inspired
Contributors:
TIM PULLEYN, STEPHENSON
MARIE ARZEL, SOLVAY
LEE REUVENI, JOJOBA DESERT LTD.
LISA CARROLL, NATIVE EXTRACTS
KIM KERN, SANDREAM IMPACT
C onsumers are investing in self-care and
small luxuries, according to a report by
NPD,1 and while overall, prestige beauty
took a huge hit in 2020 (-19% to $16.1
billion), e-commerce sales were on fire
(+46%). This reflects an unprecedented
shift in buyer behavior amid lockdowns and general pandemic fears.
So where are the bright spots for beauty growth? Global Cosmetic
Vol. 136, No. 3 | March 2021
CT2103_Expert_Opinions_DM.indd 16 2/24/21 11:57 AM

Industry provided the details dropped the least; by just 8%. No doubt, store
per NPD data, adapted in closures hurt fragrance sales. A key driver for the
the following report.2 In fragrance category is candles, which reflects the
addition, Cosmetics & Toi- home-centric lives consumers have been living
letries interviewed industry since the start of the pandemic. The at-home factor
experts to gain insights on also boosted the overall home scents sector.
trending forms, functions Parfum sales, meanwhile, grew in the double
and philosophies, following digits for 2020, highlighting a demand for longer-
the report. lasting scents despite their higher price tag. These
price points certainly helped boost fragrance
2020 U.S. category dollar volumes.
Prestige Beauty Hair care grows strong: Hair care had a strong
2020, growing 7% year-over-year. This growth was
Breakdown led by hair treatments and masks.
Skin care down: Prestige Overall recovery: “As was the case for many
skin care fell 11% between other industries, prestige beauty faced several
2019 to 2020, with the challenges in 2020 from temporary store closures
biggest drops in face cream, to reduced demand,” said Larissa Jensen, NPD’s
face serum and eye treat- beauty industry advisor. “Although we cannot deny
ment sales. Growth areas the numbers, we also cannot overlook the fact that
included face exfoliators, our industry is still holding its ground and, in some
body creams/lotions, cleans- cases, flourishing.”
ers, serums, devices and oils. She continued, “While online sales penetration
The firm noted microderm- grew across all categories as brick-and-mortar
abrasion and body sculpting drove declines, the latter still remains beauty’s larg-
products benefited from the est sales channel and a key factor in its recovery.
closure of clinics and pauses Leveraging the strength of each channel, recog-
on elective surgeries. nizing the opportunities of the changed beauty
Makeup drops: U.S. consumer, and owning this transformation are
prestige makeup sales were important action items for retailers, brands and
down 34% in 2020, and manufacturers as we enter the recovery phase.”
while by far, it lost the most What do industry insiders see as additional
ground in the U.S. prestige opportunities for beauty? Eco-conscious, sustain-
sector, makeup remained able and “cleaner” products still rise to the top,
the largest beauty category with a further focus on customized care, effective
based on dollar sales. Sev- and transformative naturals, ethical and circular
eral growth areas emerged sourcing, and food as a source of inspiration,
in this challenged sector among others. Following are specific insights.
but nails were certainly the
big story, particularly amid Eco-friendly, Sustainable and
salon closures and health concerns.
That said, face makeup remained the largest
Solid Formats
segment in color cosmetics, although its sales also “Sustainability and environmental issues are
declined faster than others. According to NPD, the at the forefront of everyone’s minds,” wrote Tim
advent of mask-wearing led to lip products posting Pulleyn, digital marketing manager at Stephenson.
the category’s “steepest declines.” Products that “Consumers are now actively thinking about ways
increased market share in 2020 included setting in which they can lower their carbon footprint.
spray/powder, tinted moisturizer, bronzer and Water and plastic consumption [are] key topics
concealer. NPD also reported that eye makeup driving trends this year.”
gained market share. He added that brands are now thinking about
Fragrance falters: Of the three beauty catego- solid-form products such as bars to lower their
ries that lost sales in 2020, fragrance surprisingly plastic and water consumption. “There’s a huge

Expert Opinions
Growth areas in prestige beauty included face exfoliators, body creams/lotions, cleansers, serums, devices and oils.
potential for brands to take advantage of this care as the ticket to today’s consumer. “Consum-
and move their key products to solid format. ers continue clamoring for customized products
Garnier’s new solid shampoo is a prime exam- that fit their own unique needs. This trend is
ple of this,” Pulleyn noted. a huge opportunity [for] a multitude of new
In relation, Pulleyn believes brands are products…” she wrote. “Brands strive to convey
becoming increasingly aware that consumers the notion that consumers [have] the freedom
want sustainable options. “Given the high to pick and choose from lines of specialized
volume of water used to make liquid products, products to select routines and regimens that
alongside single-use plastic packaging, it’s no cater to their individual wants and desires,” she
wonder why consumers are looking for alter- added. “[This provides] them with an oppor-
natives,” he explained. “Refillable aluminum tunity to express themselves through products
containers are one option, with refill stations designed ‘just for me.’”
based at supermarkets; or solid format products Other trends have emerged from the “clean”
[that provide consumers with] the same benefits beauty wave, which according to Arzel, refers to
as a liquid body wash or shampoo without the products typically formulated with ingredients
carbon footprint.” that are sustainably and ethically sourced and
To enable this future direction, Pulleyn produced with personal and environmental
points to Stephenson’s syndet offerings. “We health in mind. The sustainable aspect of
believe syndet bases create the shift enabling “clean” beauty is growing quickly, she empha-
brands to move to more sustainable solid sized, pushed by cosmetic regulations. “In the
format products,” he wrote. “Sydnets are ultra next … five years, beauty brands and suppliers
mild, with a low pH level of 5.5-6.5 and can be will have new challenges to solve. Indeed,
adapted for body bars, shampoos or condition- consumers want not only products that make
ing bars. Our own syndet base, Syndopal, is them look and feel good by delivering visible
also made using sustainable RSPO-MB palm results in terms of performance, but they also
oil,” he added. want products with a strong sustainable story,”
she wrote.
Customized, ‘Clean’ and This story, according to Arzel, is more than
Sustainable a reduction in packaging waste, and includes
Marie Arzel, business development manager circular beauty, water reduction/savings and
for personal care at Solvay, sees personalized carbon footprint impact—all along the supply
DM1 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 3 | March 2021

chain. To support these trends, Solvay offers a Sustainable, ‘Cleaner’ and
broad range of solutions. Mackaderm LIA MB Effective Naturals
(INCI: Isoamyl Laurate), for example, offers According to Lee Reuveni, CEO of Jojoba
a circular alternative to non-volatile silicones. Desert, for a long time, the leading trends in
This 100% plant-based ingredient was designed personal care have been sustainability and
based on Circular Economy principles. “clean” beauty. “But recently, with the pandemic
“Mackaderm LIA MB … delivers condition- in the world, we have seen these trends develop
ing performance comparable to non-volatile and consumers are asking for ‘clean’ beauty
silicones with a light and natural hair touch,” with effects—‘clean-ical’ beauty products,”
Arzel explained. Reuveni wrote. Consumers today are much
Polycare Split Therapy (INCI name: more highly aware of the importance and value
Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium of sustainability and naturalness but at the
Chloride), is said to be the answer to consumers same time, they are not willing to give up on
dreaming of long and healthy hair. “Trimming anti-aging effects. “More and more cosmetic
is no longer the only fix for damaged hair,” companies are looking for unique ingredients
Arzel wrote. The ingredient is designed to seal that will [accurately respond] to these trends
split ends in a manner with lasting perfor- and allow their products to stand out on the
mance, with more than 90% of hair reportedly shelf [to] gain an advantage over everything
repaired after the first use. “Thanks to Polycare else.”
Split Therapy, formulators can create a holistic In the foreseeable future, Reuveni believes
split end-repair routine and develop attractive we can expect to see companies continuing to
consumer claims to go a step further in the incorporate natural actives into products and
personalization trend,” she wrote. focusing on “cleaner” and more sustainable
In the foreseeable future, we can expect to see companies continuing to incorporate natural actives into products.
Vol. 136, No. 3 | March 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DM2

Expert Opinions
product lines. “We see huge potential in the per- resulted in closer collaborations with ingredient
sonal hygiene market,” Reuveni noted. “Using manufacturers for the next new hero species.
more natural products that are microbiome “Increasingly, brands seek ethical and
friendly is even more important in products sustainable partners, suppliers and ingredient
that are used frequently.” manufacturers with an aligning ethos to walk
In relation, Jojoba Desert has launched the ‘plastic-free, waterless, upcycled, low waste,
an active ingredient to meets these trending carbon-neutral, plant-based, circular, inclusive
consumer demands: JD Hydro Boost (INCI: and local’ walk,” she writes. “New online experi-
Water (Aqua) (and) Levan (and) Glucose (and ences and communication platforms (AI, VR,
Fructose (and) Sucrose (and) Sodium Citrate video, podcasts, online communities, real-time
(and) Potassium Citrate (and) Citric Acid). discussions, new cloud marketplaces and apps)
Reuveni described the ingredient as a natu- about the brand, ingredients, growers, ancient
ral polysaccharide characterized by unique cultures and communities—every step of the
functional features for anti-aging activities and supply chain will become transparent, creating
cross action performance. “JD Hydro Boost pro- greater opportunities for environmental and
vides a deep moisturization effect, aiding in the cultural change, gender and age inclusion,” she
rejuvenation of skin cells, reduction of wrinkles adds. “… 2021 is about brands ‘coming clean
and demonstrating ‘biome-friendly’ qualities.” and being conscious’ with the three t’s: truth,
traceability and transparency.”
Transformative Naturals and Carroll sees the future direction as natural
the Three T’s and circular. She underlined new botanical
From a similar perspective, Lisa Carroll, sources of water-soluble vitamin C, resvera-
director and innovator for Native Extracts trol, quercetin and fatty acid profiles, and
Pty. Ltd., sees naturals trending in a new way. new essential oils from untapped ecosystems
“This is the era of transformative purpose,” she such as the company’s Rainforest Blue, also
writes. Natural ingredients are no longer just known as rosewood or Dysoxylum fraserianum.
about the why, but also the how—which has “New technologies and the R&D of traditional
“Clean” and conscious beauty incorporates the desire for naturality with sustainability, biodegradability, and health and wellness.

There is untapped potential in the utilization of food and nutraceutical ingredients to deliver topical benefits across skin care,
makeup and body products.
botanicals and ancient native species will reveal in the utilization of food and nutraceutical
new uses and applications,” she wrote, adding ingredients to deliver topical benefits across
that cosmetics and nutraceuticals will continue skin care, makeup and body products.
to come together for on-the-go novelties such as What technologies will support this path
micro-dosed beauty shots, supplement pouches forward? Kern believes solutions combining
and active anti-pollution and collagen mists. powerful aesthetics while imparting skin health
benefits. “Ingredients such as plant-derived nat-
Food, Nutraceuticals and ural colorants can deliver both a beautiful tint
‘Clean’ as a Cross-over while also providing antioxidant, anti-inflam-
matory or anti-aging properties,” she explained.
Finally, Kim Kern, director of R&D at
“Additionally, with the ban on microplastic
Sandream Impact, highlighted how “clean” and
beads, consumers are looking for environmen-
conscious beauty incorporates the consumer
tally friendly exfoliators such as seed, shell or
desire for naturality with sustainability, bio-
other natural particles. Furthermore, biological
degradability, and health and wellness. “This
processes stemming from the food industry are
is driving the need for beauty products that
[giving rise to] fermented personal care ingredi-
are naturally derived, have a minimal environ-
ents, such as biofermented minerals and plant
mental impact and offer claims such as vegan
extracts, which enable the delivery of nutrients
and cruelty-free,” she wrote. “Such claims have
into the skin more effectively.”
created cross-over trends among the cosmet-
ics and personal care, food and nutraceuticals
industries.” References
She added that the consumer’s scrutinizing 1. NPD Group (2021, Feb 4). U.S. prestige beauty sees
pockets of growth amidst the industry’s 19% sales
eye will shape the path forward. “Consumers
decline in 2020, reports NPD. https://www.npd.
are reading product labels more frequently, com/wps/portal/npd/us/news/press-releases/2021/
and they are looking for ingredients that sound us-prestige-beauty-sees-pockets-of-growth-amidst-the-
industrys-19-percent-sales-decline-in-2020-reports-npd/
natural, safe and recognizable. Additionally,
2. Global Cosmetic Industry (2021, Feb 5). 2020 U.S. prestige
they are seeking shorter ingredient lists while
beauty sales breakdown: NPD. https://www.gcimagazine.
maintaining product effectiveness, which favors com/marketstrends/regions/northamerica/NPD-US-pres-
the use of multifunctional ingredients.” She tige-beauty-2020-573731411.html
underlined there also is untapped potential

Regulatory | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• When Jan. 1, 2021 arrived, it was the start
of updated and revised regulations in the
European Union (EU); specifically, in the
United Kingdom (UK).
• Herein, the author delves into UK regulatory
updates, which include Responsible
Person(s), labeling and more.
EU Regulatory Update
New Year,
New Regulations
I
Brexit and UK Cosmetic Legislation
am writing this column at the end of 2020. What a year! I had anticipated
Emma Meredith, Ph.D. the CTPA would spend much of its time focusing on the discussion out-
Cosmetic, Toiletry and come between the United Kingdom (UK) and the European Union (EU),
Perfumery Association and preparing the members and industry for Brexit. Of course, none
(CTPA), London of us could have anticipated the effects that COVID-19 would have on
the industry and the world. Even today, people are still reeling from the
impact on a business level, and how lives and livelihoods have been affected.
The cosmetic industry demonstrated how it could contribute positively
in response to the pandemic, with increased production of hand sanitizer
and other essential hygiene products. Some companies who traditionally did
Reproduction in English or any other language of

20 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 3 | March 2021
© 2021 Allured Business Media.
CT2103_Regulatory_Meredith_fcx.indd 20 2/17/21 12:00 PM

There are UK-specific requirements, which
means that there will be some duplication for
cosmetic products destined for both the UK and
EU markets.
not have such products in their portfolios even rate note, with COVID-19 still prevalent, I wish
dedicated manufacturing to supply hand sanitizer Cosmetics & Toiletries and its readers a healthy
and donate those products to health institutions. and successful 2021.
During the initial months of the health emer-
gency in the UK, as in other parts of the world, Brexit and New Rules
the increased demand for hand sanitizer created a On Dec. 31, 2020, the Transition Period ended
shortage of ethanol and other critical ingredients. and on Jan. 1, 2021, the UK became a third
To help with this, CTPA set up its COVID Emer- country to the EU. The UK left the EU on Jan.
gency Response Exchange (CERE) to match those 31, 2020, but with the Withdrawal Agreement
in need with those who could provide ingredients, (deal), this would mean a Transition Period was
packaging and manufacturing capabilities. CERE in place where the EU law remained applicable
was based on an initiative launched by the Cana- in the UK until the end of 2020. During the
dian association, Cosmetics Alliance Canada, Transition Period, the UK government and EU
which kindly shared the model with CTPA to be commission discussed their future relationship
replicated for the UK. CERE has made more than to agree with a Free Trade Agreement (FTA).
170 matches between manufacturers and suppliers Without an FTA, from Jan. 1, 2021, the UK would
of critical products, ingredients and components,
resulting in 185 products being produced. While
activity on CERE has abated, the Exchange will By the end of 2019, the the UK was one of
remain open for as long as is needed. the top three leading cosmetics consumers in
In addition to the health crisis the world is Europe, behind Germany and France.
experiencing, Brexit has happened, confounding
the rules and regulations for business between the
UK, EU and the world. The present column serves Source: Statista
as an update for where things stand. On a sepa-

or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them,

changing their appearance, protecting them,
keeping them in good condition or correcting
body odors.”1
There are, however, UK-specific require-
ments, which means that there will be some
duplication for cosmetic products destined for
both the UK and EU markets. Aspects of the UK
Cosmetics Regulation that still need to be clari-
fied include how ingredients will be managed
going forward, and how cosmetovigilance and
Each cosmetic product and its labeling must meet certain criteria in
order to be placed on the UK market. the reporting of serious undesirable effects will
be achieved. CTPA is in discussion with the UK
authorities on these important issues.
have to trade with the EU under WTO (World Trade
Organization) rules. The FTA was agreed upon on Responsible Person
Dec. 24, 2020.
Another requirement is for a UK-based
While the details still need to be scrutinized, the
Responsible Person (RP), who must assure com-
UK and the FTA allow both quota and tariff-free
pliance. The manufacturer is considered to be
trade. In order for companies outside of the UK
the RP while the importer is considered to be the
to sell cosmetics in this market, it is important to
RP for imported cosmetic products. As with the
know and prepare for the new legislative frame-
CPR, an importer or manufacturer established
works for cosmetics and chemicals applicable at the
in the UK may, by written mandate, designate a
start of 2021.
person established in the UK as the RP. The name
and address of the UK Responsible Person must
UK Cosmetic Regulation be labeled on product packaging (both primary
Following the EU Referendum in 2016, the UK and secondary).
government prepared a whole raft of UK legislation
to replace all of the EU laws in place. In March Notification
2019, the UK Cosmetics Regulation Statutory
The UK Cosmetics Regulation is based on
Instrument (SI), which is part of the Product Safety
post-market surveillance and, therefore, no regis-
and Metrology etc. (Amendment etc.) (EU Exit)
tration or pre-approval is needed before placing
Regulations 2019, was passed in UK Parliament.
a cosmetic product on the UK market. The RP
The SI would have come into force on exit day in
must ensure compliance with UK law, as with the
the event of a “no deal” Brexit. Having left with a
CPR, product notification is required for the UK.
deal during the Transition Period, the UK Cosmetics
Before placing a cosmetic product on the UK
Regulation SI went through several amendments
market, the RP must submit a notification via the
and would take full effect starting Jan. 1, 2021.
UK notification database; i.e., Submit Cosmetic
The UK Cosmetics Regulation reflects the
Product Notifications (SCPN). The UK SCPN
principles of the EU Cosmetic Products Regula-
went live on Jan. 1, 2021.
tion (1223/2009) (CPR). It is risk-based and has
consumer safety at its core, with safety being The following information must be provided
assured through an assessment documented in the for notification:
Product Information File. The animal testing bans
• the category of cosmetic product and its name or
of the CPR are maintained under UK Cosmetics names, enabling its specific identification;
Regulation for both finished cosmetic products and
cosmetic ingredients. • the name and address of the UK RP;
The definition of a cosmetic product is the • details of a contact person to contact in the case of
same as for the CPR: “Cosmetic product means emergency;
any substance or mixture intended to be placed in • where applicable, the following information: the
contact with the external parts of the human body presence of substances in the form of nanomateri-
(epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external als; the identification including the chemical
genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous name (IUPAC) and other descriptors as specified
membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively in point 2 of the Preamble to Annexes 2 to 6 to

this Regulation; and the reasonably foreseeable • The UK RP name and address (highlighted if more
exposure conditions; than one UK address is present on the pack)—
• the name and the CAS or EC number of sub- transitional provisions apply;
stances classified as CMR substances of category • country of origin for imported products;
1A or 1B under Regulation (EC) No. 1272/2008;
• nominal content (except on packages
• the Frame Formulation allowing for prompt and less than 5 mL/g, free samples and single
appropriate medical treatment in the event of application products);
difficulties; and
• "best before end" date (BBE) or "period after open-
• the original labeling and, where reasonably legible, ing" (PAO)—the same principles as CPR;
a photograph of the corresponding packaging.
• warnings and precautions for use;
UK RPs will need to open an account on • batch number;
the UK notification database. Existing product • the function of the product, unless it is clear from
notifications from the EU Cosmetic Product its presentation; and
Notification Portal (CPNP) must be notified within
• ingredient list preceded by the term "ingredient"—
90 days from Jan. 1, 2021. For new cosmetic
the same principles as CPR.
products, an updated notification is required on
the UK notification database as of Jan. 1, 2021.
Cosmetic products already on the UK market
that have an EU RP address but no UK address
Market Labeling on the package can be made available on the UK
The following information must be labeled on market for 24 months after the end of the transi-
cosmetic products placed on the UK market, tion period (Jan. 1, 2021). Article 41 of the EU
in English:

Withdrawal Agreement states that goods placed The UK chemicals framework follows the
on the EU27 or UK markets before the end of the same principles and standards as EU REACH,
transition period may be made further available in particular: no data, no market, and registra-
and circulate between the two markets until they tion obligations for chemicals manufactured or
reach the end consumer. Proof of when the goods imported into GB >1 tonne/year per legal entity. It
were placed on the market will be required and also does not apply to finished cosmetic products
must meet the requirements shown in Table 1.1 but applies to cosmetic ingredients. Transitional
provisions apply to substances already registered
UK REACH under EU REACH. The UK REACH Statutory
As well as adopting UK cosmetics legislation Instrument additionally provides provision for
that mirrors the EU CPR, the UK Government substances not currently registered under EU
has introduced a chemical legislation that is REACH or imported outside of the UK. The UK
based on the EU Registration, Evaluation and Health and Safety Executive (HSE) takes on the
Authorization of Chemicals (REACH) Regulation. role of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA).
UK REACH becomes effective on Jan. 1, 2021, Further guidance on UK REACH obligations,
and applies to Great Britain (England, Scotland depending on the company’s role and on whether
and Wales). Northern Ireland will follow EU the substance is already registered under EU
Regulations according to the Northern Ireland REACH or not, is available on the HSE website.
Protocol of the Withdrawal Agreement under As mentioned, the UK Government published
which the UK left the EU. the Northern Ireland (NI) Protocol to address the
Table 1. 'Selling to the UK Market' Checklist
Selling to the UK Market Actions

Set up a UK RP: open a UK-based office, contract a UK third party RP service
UK Responsible Person
provider or appoint one of your UK importers as the RP.
Update the product label with the UK RP name and address plus country of
Labeling
origin if the product is made outside of the UK; 2-yr grace period applies.
Download the XML files of notifications in EU CPNP.
90 days from Jan. 1, 2021, to notify products already on the market, with the
Notification database
preliminary notification (XML files).
Products launching after Jan. 1, 2021, must be notified prior to launch.
Product Information File Must be translated into English.
Safety assessor If the safety assessor qualifications were obtained outside of the UK, check that
qualification they are valid or recognized as equivalent by UK authorities.
Distributors becoming
The importer shall mandate the brand’s UK RP.
importers
Table 2. Applicable Legislation to UK Sales
Products sold in… Applicable Legislation

Northern Ireland EU Cosmetic Products Regulation, EU REACH
Northern Ireland and
EU Cosmetic Products Regulation, EU REACH
Republic of Ireland
Northern Ireland and EU Cosmetic Products Regulation, EU REACH, UK Cosmetics Regulation, UK
Great Britain REACH à Double compliance
Great Britain UK Cosmetics Regulation, UK REACH

significant and unique challenges that Brexit
poses to the island of Ireland. Consequently,
several EU regulations will continue to apply to
NI. The implications for cosmetic products are
summarized in Table 2. 2
It is important to note that compliance with
the regulations is also required for products
sold online. This is valid for goods sold to both
the EU and the UK.
Summary
At the start of 2020, the UK left the EU but Product safety is assured through an assessment documented
with the Withdrawal Agreement, this meant in the Product Information File.
there was a transition period in place where EU
law was applicable until the end of 2020. Now access the members’ website for more detailed
in 2021, there have been changes in cosmetic information, wherever they are based around
regulations. As stated, for companies outside of the world.
the UK that are looking to place products in the
UK market, it is important to know and prepare References
for the new legislative laws.
1. Cosmetic product definition. The Cosmetic, Toiletry and
The CTPA public website has in-depth Brexit Perfumery Association (CTPA). Available at: https://www.
advice. Employees of CTPA members also can ctpa.org.uk/definition-ofa-cosmetic

Research | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Current approaches to skin care
customization focus on the individual’s
skin type with little attention to the impact
of their heritage.
• Described here is a diagnostic tool

combining intrinsic, i.e., population-driven
research in the literature, with extrinsic
factors collected through self-assessment.
Combinatorial
Skin Care Heredity × Experience
= Enhanced Product
Customization
facebook.com/CandTmagazine
Cosmetics & Toiletries
@cosmeticsandtoiletries Reproduction in English or any other language of

CT2103_Research_Barton_fcx.indd 26 2/17/21 1:33 PM

T he last decade has wit-
nessed an acceleration of
attempts to personalize
or customize recommen-
dations for skin care
products. The evolution
of this goes back a century to Helena Ruben-
stein, or even longer. Advances in skin biology
supported phenotypic descriptors in skin care
range into the late 20th century; for example,
the Prescriptives brand, which perhaps took a
lead from Fitzpatrick’s skin types1—building on
even earlier work on skin color.2
Twentieth century wisdom describing skin
as oily, dry, normal and combination arose still
later. However, the role of extrinsic factors
beyond UV alone has also been recognized
for some time.3 Perhaps the first 21st century
advance describing conventional skin catego-
ries came with Leslie Baumann, M.D., whose
16 Skin Types4 used four dichotomies: dry
to oily; sensitive to resistant; pigmented to
non-pigmented; and wrinkled to unwrinkled.
This defined a greater range of consumer needs
more consistently.
Stephen Barton
Continuing research has highlighted the
Skin Thinking Ltd., Nottingham, UK
complexities of relationships between skin
Karen Lee-Thompson genotype, the environment and phenotype,
Beauty Consociare Ltd., Nottingham, UK recently summarized as the exposome.5 The
challenge, however, remains the same—distill-
ing the complex science of these relationships
in a way that is understandable, relevant and
translatable to consumers’ experiences.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2021 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 27

Combinatorial Skin Care
Personalization refers to a formulation

tailored to an individual and their ever-
changing needs. Customization refers to a
curated choice, which is more practical.
During the 2019 Personalized Beauty Either approach demands the acquisition
Summit, four drivers for growth in customized of evidence to improve the reliability of any
beauty were described that could potentially recommendation. Such evidence is available
address this challenge: through a variety of sources, and the means
through which it is acquired often utilizes
• Experience: The role of co-creation and
digital devices—particularly mobile phones with
personalized packaging;
built-in imaging, as exemplified by many skin
• E-commerce: The growth of e-commerce care brand apps. Digital devices also enable the
and channels for advertising, purchasing wider incorporation of user information using
and delivery; artificial intelligence and by collecting biometric
• Digital technologies: Unlike traditional and behavioral data.
approaches using questionnaires, technolo- As of yet, apart from incorporating UV-
gies enable greater access to, and analysis monitoring devices, little use has been made
of, personal biometric information and of environmental data sources to inform skin
consumer needs; and care choices. DNA analyses of individuals have
been proposed but have failed to show any
• Skin research: Increased scientific under-
real advantages for product recommendations.
standing of the factors contributing to an
Meanwhile, the use of digital technologies, in
individual’s needs, which is an essential part
combination with a more conventional question-
of product customization.
naire approach, overcomes some disadvantages,
The present article will focus on the latter incorporating data that is not accessible via
two drivers to propose a novel approach to digital devices into the assessment.
these ambitions for individualized skin care. Expanding upon this, utilizing what is
First, however, as a point of clarification, it is already published in the scientific literature
important to define some terminology. Person- could help to guide skin care recommendations.
alization, in its truest sense, refers to a unique A review of the major factors contributing
formulation tailored to an individual and, by to an individual’s skin characteristics should
implication, reflecting their ever-changing include genetic heritage, chronological age, and
needs. By contrast, customization, referring to a responses to historical and current environmen-
curated or edited choice, better reflects what is tal exposures. It should also factor in the role of
practical for most skin care brands and the aim innate skin color and homeostatic mechanisms,
of this project. lifestyle and psychological status.
To date, most modeling appears to use one or
two of these factors as a means of directing an
individual to skin care solutions. The approach
The global personalized beauty market was
described here takes a different angle by recog-
valued at US $38.02 billion in 2019 and is
nizing two things:
expected to reach $72.55 billion in 2028—a
respectable CAGR of 7.5% from 2019-2028. • First, the published literature provides
insights into the role of these factors at the
population level, as well as how they impact
Source: InsightAce Analytic skin biology, relating them to an individual’s
skin care needs.

Based on published evidence, an online questionnaire was designed to assess basic skin biological, demographic and lifestyle data.
Each response was used to generate a skin condition “score.”
• Second, beyond using this information to a more complex picture but while there are
simply create a tailored product, it can be variations in the data, it appears to reflect the
used as a powerful tool to educate the indi- stratum corneum observations. The levels of
vidual about their personal skin care needs. barrier lipids also appear in the order of: Asian >
Caucasian > Black. These observations indicate
Herein, we highlight the factors that guide
differing needs for moisturization in individuals
this route to customization.
of various ethnicities.
Ethnicity Problems arising from the consequences
The published literature on variations in of oily-spot prone skin and pores have been
skin biology within and between ethnic groups described by Rawlings.6 African-Americans have
shows that care is required when comparing larger, more active sebaceous glands and greater
studies.6, 7 For example, “Japanese” may mimic numbers of pores, but these are less obvious in
“East Asian” in skin characteristics; or “African- East Asians, Hispanics and Caucasians. There
American” and “Afro-Caribbean” people may are also qualitative differences in sebum from
have needs that overlap. This, together with different ethnic groups, which may contribute
the role of age, body site and locality, need to self-perceived severity of skin shine, for
careful consideration. However, some general instance. While the age-related incidence of
conclusions are possible and it could be argued, acne and spot-prone skin does not differ widely
as it will be later, that these allow us to fac- between ethnicities, the consequences vary,
tor in other parameters such as age, lifestyle particularly where post-inflammatory pigmen-
and skin responsiveness to create a more tation occurs in the more deeply pigmented
“customized” approach. skin types.8, 9
For example, the stratum corneum tends to The prominence of skin pores does overlap
be more compact in Black skin compared with with oily spot-prone skin. Though relatively few
Caucasian skin with similar stratum corneum studies exist, one indicated similar findings in
thickness, whilst Asian stratum corneum tends Japanese and Caucasian skin.10
to be the thinnest. Skin surface hydration shows
the general ranking order of: Asian > Caucasian Skin Color
> Black, with Hispanic skin types closer to Asian Skin color should be considered separately
in water content. Skin barrier function shows from ethnicity, as research shows considerable

Inter-relationships between ethnicity, color,

age and lifestyle and their impact on skin
suggests population study data could provide
a customized assessment.
heterogeneity in genes controlling pigmentation personalization of foundation products, with

within different ethnic groups.11 Indeed, color highly defined indices and color charts being
measurements from different ethnic groups generated.14 However, there are many implica-
show widespread hue or chroma (C) within tions for a number of skin characteristics15
limited luminance (L) for Caucasian skin that with the level and type of melanin in UV
overlaps with a similar L range but greater C protection—in both short-term and long-term
in Asian and Hispanic skin.12 African-American exposures—having an impact on skin aging and
and Indian women have almost inverse varia- potential dyspigmentation.16
tions, with Indians showing a wider range of L In other work, Voegli, et al.17 showed that
but a similar range of C to Asians and Hispanics. pigmentation is not directly related to stratum
Broadly similar findings have been docu- corneum barrier properties. Their observations
mented in comparisons of Caucasian, Chinese, in Black albino people give further support
Kurdish and Thai people.13 This showed a to the view that skin color and ethnicity must
greater overlap in L and C, with greater L be considered separately. Overall, skin color
associated with smaller C, and a tighter spread also affects how light reflects from the surface.
in values for Thai and Chinese people. This Darker tones emphasize characteristics such as
study also noted the importance of the “redness” shine, pores and wrinkles. Similarly, a tendency
component of skin color and the differences for “graying” with drier skin can change the
within exposed sites, such as facial skin. perceived needs in people of color, independent
This research has found application in of any structural differences.

Chronological Age
A growing body of recent scientific knowledge
documents changes in skin with age and the variations
in different ethnic and geographic populations.18-25
Highlighting the interconnectedness of these factors,
Galzote’s group assessed changes in skin in different
parts of Asia due to age, skin care habits and seasonal
variations. Japanese subjects generally had greater
skin surface moisture across all age groups, while
those from China had the highest average levels
of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), indicating
poorer stratum corneum barrier function. Across all
Asian populations, skin surface moisture and TEWL
generally decreased with increasing age (except for
teenagers) and subjects from the Philippines and India
had the least variation with age.
Those from Seoul, South Korea and Calicut, India,
had the highest sebum readings, which decreased with
age, with the exception of subjects in the 25- to 40-year
age group. Galzote’s group also recorded seasonal
reductions in melanin index and skin surface hydra-
tion, and increases in TEWL, skin pH, redness and
sebum production.
In a summary of age-related changes for different
skin concerns, it was noted that all ethnicities undergo
similar changes. What differed was the magnitude and
rate of change by decade.26
Extrinsic Factors
Extrinsic factors include recent and cumulative
environmental exposures, exercise, stress, sleep
and diet. All of these further influence the variables
described above. The most important of these is the
response to UV light, with impacts on dyspigmenta-
tion and wrinkling. The reality of sunburn response in
darker skin has been addressed in several groups27 and
the difficulties in self-identification and preventative
action is not directly related to exposure risks.28
Particulate atmospheric pollution may have a role
in dyspigmentation29 and consequences for sensitive
skin.30 Furthermore, recent interest in the role of blue
light in dyspigmentation31 indicates a UVA-like action
spectrum, with implications for darker skin types.
Blue light may also affect circadian rhythms with
potentially adverse consequences for skin conditions.32
“Sensitive skin” may be considered extrinsi-
cally induced, acting on the skin barrier variations
discussed earlier. In a review of ethnic differences
in signs and causes, 19% of Caucasian-Americans
reported visual symptoms in sensitive skin’s response
to products, whereas 27% of African-Americans had
sensory effects. Five percent of Hispanics reported
sensory effects compared with 17% for the whole

Customization demands the acquisition of evidence to improve the reliability of recommendations.

The means through which it is acquired often utilizes digital devices.
population.33 Variations in weather-related greatly influence skin condition, and a recent

principal triggers were also noted. Only 19% of UK population survey showed that individu-
African-Americans reported weather sensitivity, als believe both diet and stress have a greater
compared with 25% for the whole population. influence on their self-perceived changes in
Sensitivity to products was 19% in the whole signs of skin aging than expected.38 Minor ethnic
population but 32% of Asians reported product- variations were observed but work elsewhere
related sensitivity. has indicated that a healthy diet can have a
A different study showed little difference in beneficial impact on skin coloration.39
prevalence due to ethnicity but confirmed that These inter-relationships between ethnicity,
the signs and stimuli varied. Euro-Americans color, age and lifestyle and their impact on skin
had a higher skin reactivity to wind but less characteristics suggest that using such data
to cosmetics. Afro-Americans were neither as from population studies might help to provide
reactive nor as prone to facial redness. Asians a customized assessment of individual skin care
appeared more reactive to spicy food and needs. This information could also advise users
sudden weather changes, with a greater likeli- about how these factors contribute to their daily
hood of reporting an itch response. Hispanics experiences and suggest strategies they might
presented a lower incidence of skin reactivity to adopt to better manage their expectations and
alcohol.34 Others suggested that cultural norms choices of skin care products.
play a role—one study in China revealed a 23%
prevalence compared with a > 70% prevalence Diagnostic Tool
in other parts of the world.35 On the basis of this body of published
Of the other external factors, stress and diet evidence, an online questionnaire was designed
are important considerations. Acute psychoso- to assess basic skin biological, demographic
cial and sleep deprivation stress disrupt skin and lifestyle data. Each response was used to
barrier function homeostasis in women.36 Short- generate a “score” based on factors derived
term effects can include reddening or dulling from population data. The population data was
and pallor, which can persist with chronic used to generate an index for each of the factors
stress associated with cortisol disruption. These contributing to skin condition. A combinato-
responses can further exacerbate sensitive skin. rial “score” was then generated using each of
The countering effects of exercise have also been an individual’s responses. This score indicated
broadly reported, and one study showed clear the likely grade of needs the individual might
benefits of sparing age-related changes in those experience for a range of common skin care
who exercise regularly compared with those of a concerns. This approach has been used to help
sedentary population.37 respondents make appropriate cosmetic skin
Dietary effects are under-researched and can care choices in two ways:

1. To recommend products designed to help will become clearer as the tool gains wider use.
address their particular skin care needs; Such wider use will also create opportunities to
and further test the model used to create the score
2. To provide them with insight into the and drive continuous improvement.
factors influencing their specific cosmetic
skin care concerns in comparison with Conclusions
others of similar experiences. The development of a diagnostic tool
based on published population data appears
This tool has undergone proof of concept
to perform well against independent visual
testing for the first of these aims. In an ethnically
assessments of skin care needs. With known
diverse group, scores were generated by a profes-
and manageable exceptions, the tool and
sional skin care grader using an independent
expert both showed consistency in “intention
scale of severity based on a range of published
to recommend” products at maintenance and
photographic scales, when possible. Comparisons
corrective levels.
were made between the “expert” score and the
These findings also highlight known
“diagnostic tool” score at two recommenda-
challenges in assessing skin care needs. The
tion thresholds: a score above a threshold of
interdependence of certain needs—for example,
“maintenance/control” for their skin condition;
oily, shiny skin and spot-prone skin—often has a
and a score above a higher threshold to “correct/
basis in biology. This is mirrored by a halo effect
redress” their skin condition. This was performed
in consumer self-assessments but it may express
for each of eight common skin care problems.
itself differently in different ethnicities.
Initial results of this study* indicated good
Individuals’ perceptions of their skin care
overall consistency. The two approaches agreed
needs can also be influenced by a number of
on whether to recommend, or not, at both
extrinsic factors, e.g., peer group, social norms,
maintenance and corrective thresholds.
advertising; and intrinsic factors, including
Some exceptions were highlighted; uneven
self-image and psychological status. Using
pigmentation and sensitive skin being of particu-
the described tool could help to raise greater
lar interest. The distribution of pigmentation over
awareness of such factors and better inform
the face, i.e., unevenness, size and intensity, will
users’ expectations and product choices. Further
have a bearing on its importance to an individual,
developments of the system could be made by
as will frequency and persistence. This will, in
repeating assessments over time and performing
turn, affect their self-assessment. In contrast, an
parallel self-image questionnaires to understand
expert assessor will simply score the presence of
how the effects of a user’s self-assessment fit
pigmentation without a full history of it, which
with that of the tool.
helps to explain disproportionate ratings.
Finally, the data collected throughout
Similarly, sensitive skin is difficult to score
the course of the tool’s use also provides an
without some history, and testing being unavail-
opportunity for continued improvement,
able in the study, plus the high incidence of
both by further refinement of the principles
“self-assessed” sensitive skin in the population
behind the algorithm used and by refinement
data, does help to explain the comparative
of the recommendations for product use and
underscoring for this characteristic by the
lifestyle modifications.
expert assessment.
Both systems also identified a common
Acknowledgments: The authors would like to thank Gill
phenomenon: an individual’s perception of the Westgate, Ph.D., University of Bradford, UK; and Katerina
severity of a skin care problem is often greater Steventon, Ph.D., FaceWorkshops, for assistance in
than that provided by the expert and the diagnos- organizing and conducting the study at Digital Health
Enterprize Zone.
tic tool. This suggests that advice on the factors
influencing skin condition may act as a useful
moderator in creating more realistic expecta- References
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* This ethics-approved study, commissioned at the Digital pologische Betrachtungen. Deutsche Buch-Gemeinschaft,
Health Enterprize Zone, University of Bradford, UK, was Berlin.
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Intl J Cosm Sci 37 (suppl 1) 3-8.

Testing | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Described here is the development of a test
method combining consumer input with
instrumental measurements to assess the
transfer-proof performance of lipsticks.
• Three lipsticks with varying transfer-

resistance efficacy are then put to the test
Lasting
using this method.
Impression A Consumer-centric Approach to Measure

Transfer-proof Lipstick
T
Cyril Messaraa and Michelle Mangan
Oriflame Research & Development, Dublin
ransfer proof can be defined as Taking a step back, however, it is important to

the ability of a cosmetic product understand what consumers expect when they pur-
to completely resist transferral chase a product that claims to be transfer proof and
from one surface to another. It what they accept in terms of proven performance.
has long been a popular claim Will they engage with product communications of
across foundation and lip statistical significance from efficacy testing, or do
products but the ongoing COVID-19 crisis has made they seek tangible proof that the product works
it more relevant than ever before.1 Wearing face in real terms? The transfer-proof benefit is now as
masks is now essential to everyday life and consum- important as long wear or hydration, so how can it
ers do not want to see makeup left behind after be measured objectively when consumer perception
masks are removed. This puts increasing pressure on is strongly at its core?
formulation chemists to create color cosmetics that This was the focus of the present work, which
perform,2 and raw material suppliers are developing aimed to strengthen conventional instrumental
ingredients to support this transfer-proof perfor- measurements by first defining transfer proof from
mance—most notably, novel film formers.3 the consumer perspective. These insights were then

facebook.com/CandTmagazine Cosmetics
all or part of & Toiletries
this @cosmeticsandtoiletries
article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 3 | March 2021
CT2103_Testing_Mangan_fcx.indd 36 2/17/21 1:47 PM


Lasting Impression
The transfer-proof benefit is now as

important as long wear or hydration.
used to design a test method to measure this completely resist transferral, whereas transfer
attribute in test lipsticks. resistant could be considered as having slightly
less efficacy in comparison.
Consumer Survey: Defining Yet, either claim on its own could be under-
Transfer-proof Attributes stood to mean the same thing. Thus, gaining
insight into the consumer’s understanding of
Before any measurement considerations, it
transfer proof and transfer resistant was impor-
was important to define what exactly transfer
tant in order to deliver a product that meets
proof and transfer resistant meant to consum-
consumer expectations.
ers. Transfer claims are visual in nature; e.g.,
To define the boundaries between transfer
lipsticks can noticeably transfer onto face masks
resistant and transfer proof, a survey was
upon wearing or ceramic cups during drinking.
conducted in various countries. This survey
Transfer proof could be defined as the ability to
consisted of a series of images showing ceramic
cups with varying degrees of lipstick transfer,
including a cup completely free of lipstick.
The lipstick market is projected to reach $21.06
Images of the ceramic cups were taken using
billion by 2027—a CAGR of 5.24% from 2020 to
an imaging systema and were randomized in a
2027. Consumers have shifted toward smooth, consumer survey for analysis (see Figure 1).1
dry and natural matte looks that are long-lasting. Consumers graded which images they con-
sidered to be transfer proof, transfer resistant or
Source: Verified Market Research a

VISIA CR 2.3, Canfield Scientific
Figure 1. Images of cups with varying degrees of lipstick transfer for consumer
perception ratings

neither. Opinions from a total of 95 volunteers formulated to resist transferral and featuring
across China, India, Mexico, Russia and Indo- wear-enhancing raw materials; a competitor
nesia were collected with the aim of developing benchmark lipstick advertising transfer-proof
a grading scale to integrate the perceptions claims; and a regular in-house lipstick without
of these volunteers. In parallel, colorimetric transfer-resisting raw materials. The general
measurements were performed on each of the formulas are provided in Table 1. 1 Note the
cups using a portable camerab, with capabili- ingredients are listed in random order.
ties previously described in the literature,4, 5 to Ten females aged 18 to 65 years old were
establish corresponding color values to each then recruited to apply the lipsticks and test
cup's “condition.” both their transferral to ceramic cups and stay-
ing power on the lips. All procedures involved
Clinical Evaluation of in the study were explained in detail and
Test Lipsticks written informed consent was obtained from all
volunteers. The process included: taking initial
Following the outputs of the consumer per-
colorimetric measurements of both the subjects’
ception survey, a clinical study was performed to
lips and test cups prior to lipstick application;
measure the transfer-proof performance of three
subjects applying the lipstick (three strokes on
test lipsticks: an in-house lipstick specifically
upper lips and three strokes on lower lips); then,
b
Antera 3D, Miravex Ltd.
after 10 min, taking lip colorimetric measure-
Table 1. General Test Lipstick Formulas
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cera Microcristallina, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera,

Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract,
Citric Acid, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Isopropyl Lanolate,
Isopropyl Myristate, Octyldodecanol, Paraffin, Parfum, Pentaerythrityl, Tetracaprylate/
Regular Tetracaprate, Polyethylene, Propylparaben, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Silica, Tocopheryl
lipstick Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, BHT, Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Triisodecyl
Trimellitate. May Contain (+/-): Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491,
CI 77492, CI 77499), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6 (CI 15850), Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red
28 Lake (CI 45410), Red 33 Lake (CI 17200), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6 Lake (CI
15985).
Cyclopentasiloxane, Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone,
Isododecane, Silica, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Triisostearin, Lauroyl Lysine, Glycerin,
Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate, Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trimethylolpropane
Triethylhexanoate, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax,
Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil, Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil, Helianthus
Benchmark Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Acacia
with transfer- Decurrens Flower Wax, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride,
proof claims Limonium Gerberi Extract, Polyglycerin-3, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Aluminum
Hydroxide, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polysilicone-2, Propylene Carbonate,
Phenoxyethanol. May Contain (+/-): Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI
77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6 (CI 15850), Red 7 Lake (CI
15850), Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Red 33 Lake (CI 17200), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow
6 Lake (CI 15985).
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/
Caprate Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Caprylate, Parfum, Polyethylene, Polyglyceryl-3
In-house Diisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, BHT, Silica, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate,
transfer-proof Trimethylsiloxysilicate. May Contain (+/-): Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides
lipstick (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6 (CI 15850), Red 7 Lake
(CI 15850), Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Red 33 Lake (CI 17200), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140),
Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985).

Lasting Impression
ments. Following this, panelists touched their lips aligned with consumer ratings of transfer proof,
to the ceramic cup to simulate drinking from it transfer resistant or neither based on defined
for a duration of 3 sec. Finally, post-transfer lip cut-off points obtained from the consumer
and cup colorimetric measurements were taken. perception study.
This process was repeated for the three different
lipsticks during three different visits on distinct Results: Consumer
days but at the same time of day, to avoid diurnal Survey and Colorimetric
variations. This process is outlined in Figure 2.2
A noted, colorimetric measurements were
Measurements
taken of the lips and cups before and after Cups were classified as transfer proof,
transferral to determine the amount of product transfer resistant or neither based on the con-
deposited onto the cup. The brightness parameter sumer perception survey and connected to the
L* was used rather than redness a* because corresponding evolutions in the L* parameter
it is in line with the color of the measured (brightness) of the images. This defined a cut-off
substrate—here, the ceramic cup. The redness or pass/fail rate for transfer proof and transfer
a* parameter also is likely to be affected by the resistant claims. The “neither” zone was defined
redness of the lipstick shade/intensity and is by averaging the last acceptable mean variation
therefore a less favorable choice for measuring of L* for “neither” and the first acceptable L*
transfer-proof efficacy. evolution for transfer resistant. Any value that
Brightness L* has a color scale from 0 (black) fell above this average was considered “neither
to 100 (white). Therefore, a decrease in the L* transfer resistant” or “neither transfer proof.”
value of the cup indicates a degree of lipstick As for the transfer resistant zone, the average
transfer onto the cup. The greater the decrease between the last acceptable brightness evolution
in the L* value, the higher the percentage of for transfer resistant and the first acceptable
lipstick transferred. The lower the decrease mean evolution for transfer proof were calcu-
in the L* value, the smaller the percentage of lated. Any value that fell above this average
lipstick transferred. These values were then was considered transfer resistant and any value
Figure 2. Overall steps of the clinical study, with colorimetric measurements performed on lips
and cups at various stages

Including consumers as part of product
development can be an asset in terms of
brand loyalty, as it allows their opinions to
feature heavily in the product's evolution.
below and including the average was considered variation measured on the cup did fall into the
transfer proof. “transfer-resistant” rather than “transfer proof”
Once the cut-off values were established, zone. Lastly, the in-house lipstick led to the
it was possible to categorize the colorimetric lowest variation of brightness L*, which fell in
variations of brightness L* for each lipstick tested the “transfer-proof” zone. The discrepancies in
and thus classify their performance. As depicted performance between the three lipsticks were
by Figure 3,
3 the respective variation in brightness clearly visible on the cups (see Figure 4).
4
L*—i.e., the quantity of product transferred on
the cup—could be projected within the previ- Staying Power on Lips
ously established scale (data not shown; available Beyond these results, to further substantiate
upon request). the efficacy of the transfer-proof lipstick devel-
As can be seen, the regular lipstick transferred oped in-house, brightness L* measurements also
substantially onto the cup, leading to a high value were taken of the lips to capture data relating to
of brightness L* variation, which corresponds “staying power”—i.e., the variation in brightness
to the “neither transfer-resistant or transfer- of the lips before and after drinking from the
proof” zone. The benchmark with transfer-proof cup. Figure 5 shows the staying power of the
claims included in this study did not transfer as transfer-proof lipstick on the lips based on per-
much as the regular lipstick, yet the brightness centage variations in the L* parameter directly

Lasting Impression
*Yellow lines = after transfer; blue bars = brightness L* variations per consumer classification
Figure 3. Brightness L* variations of the tested lipsticks on ceramic cups, arranged by

consumer classification
Figure 4. Illustrative images from one panelist (from L): regular lipstick (negative
control), transfer-resistant benchmark and transfer-proof in-house lipstick

on the lips, pre- and post-transfer. Note the
boxes extend from the 25th to 75th percen-
tiles and span the interquartile range; the
median is marked by a vertical line inside
the box. These results align with previous
work similarly comparing the transfer
proof and regular lipstick in a smaller test
group (n = 5). Here, the transfer-proof
lipstick maintained its color three times
more effectively than the regular lipstick
(data not shown).
Discussion
The co-creation of this test method
between research and development scien-
tists and global consumers not only fulfills
a gap for a transfer-proof lipstick perfor-
mance evaluation method, but also gives
confidence in product acceptability by
ensuring that product performance aligns
with global consumer expectations. Had
evaluations been based on pure statistical
considerations, all of the lipsticks would
have registered a significant change in the This test method opens up a path to develop products with claims that are
whiteness of the cup, even if the differ- especially relevant today, such as mask-proof/resistant effects.
ences in the brightness L* values were

very minor. This is due to the precision of
colorimetric measurements—but these do
not represent a meaningful change to the
consumer’s eye, as shown by the cut-offs
established from the survey.
One notable limit to the current
attempt is that consumer classifications
were performed using photographs;
moving forward, it would be ideal to
have this performed live in person or
via video to gain an even more accurate
perspective of what transfer proof (or any
other claim, for that matter) means to
consumers. In addition, the touching of
the lips to the ceramic cup was performed
at room temperature and transfer pres-
sure was not standardized, as the study
was designed to mimic the consumer’s
regular/own use. Future prospects could
be to include the temperature of the
ceramic cup as a variable for measuring
transfer-proof performance.
A key strength of our current method
is that it allows formulators to tweak and
adjust formulas according to measured Figure 5. Percentage of staying power for
performance without the need to repeat in-house transfer-proof lipstick
studies. As observed in these results, the

Lasting Impression
be adapted to match realistic consumer percep-

Lipstick Lowdown tions for today’s global marketplace.
The described test method opens up a path
Check out page 64 in our to develop products with potential consumer-
March 2020 edition. driven benefits that make them especially
relevant today, such as mask-proof/resistant
effects. These claims could be substantiated
tested benchmark branded as transfer proof by adapting the current method to feature
performed as transfer resistant despite having new substrates; in this case, masks. Thus, the
similar transfer-proof technologies—i.e., cyclo- transfer-proof benefit could be extended and
pentasiloxane and trimethylsiloxysilicate—to communicated using new and alternative
the in-house lipstick that performed more verbiage, such as staying power, fixation or other
successfully. Critically, flagging insufficient creative interpretations for future claims and
performance at the development stage using consumer appeal.
this method would enable formulators to fur-
ther adjust prototypes with adequate levels of Acknowledgments: The authors would like to thank Rachel
Mallon and Fanny Dubois for reviewing this article and
volatile oils and film formers to enhance wear contributing valuable input.
and transfer-resistance capabilities. This would
allow for significant efficiencies in new product
References
development in terms of timing, resources
1. Gerstell, E., Marchessou, S., Schmidt, J. and Spagnuolo,
and cost. E. (2020, May). How COVID-19 is changing the world of
Lastly, the inclusion of consumers as part beauty. McKinsey & Company. https://mck.co/3sG7F9n
of product development can be considered an 2. Culliney, K. (2020, Aug 26). UK beauty to decline 10% in
asset to cosmetic companies in terms of brand 2020: ‘Cosmetics has taken a backseat.’ Cosmetics Design
Europe. https://bit.ly/3iAz9bV
loyalty, as it allows the opinions and consid-
3. Lim, A. (2020, Sep 23). Mask-friendly makeup: Covestro
erations of customers to feature heavily in the eyes potential for bio-based film former in APAC color
evolution of the product. Internal experience cosmetics market. Cosmetics Design Europe. https://bit.
has shown that the disclosure of end results to ly/35Z9AMA
consumers who took part in initial surveys and 4. Matias, A.R., Ferreira, M., Costa, P. and Neto, P. (2015).
Skin color, skin redness and melanin biometric measure-
the demonstration of how their feedback was ments: Comparison study between Antera 3D, Mexameter
utilized as a part of the product’s development and Colorimeter. Skin Res Techno 21 346-362.
felt rewarding. 5. Messaraa, C., Metois, A., Walsh, M., et al. (2018). Wrinkle
Marketing claims for lipstick are shifting and roughness measurement by the Antera 3D and its
application for evaluation of cosmetic products. Skin Res
from the classic “long-wear” toward more Technol 24 359-366.
lifestyle-related claims, and trends in the 6. From no makeup to mascne: Mask-wearing is chang-
beauty industry will continue to evolve under ing beauty habits. (2020, Oct 18). Premium Beauty
the influence of COVID-19 as consumers adjust News. https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/en/
from-no-makeup-to-mascne-mask,17370
to a new way of life. The purpose of color cos-
7. Messaraa, C., Mangan, M. and Crowe, M. (2020). Role of
metics in beauty routines must be reinvented make-up in the context of COVID-19? HPC 15(3) 46-48.
in order for the category to adapt.6, 7 As such,
conventional R&D testing approaches must

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Testing | C&T ®
G
KEY POINTS
• Monk fruit extract can be used in a holistic
approach to target mature skin. It improves
physical and emotional well-being by
balancing the skin's epigenetic signature to
achieve homeostasis.
• In this article, the effects of a monk fruit

extract are tested on dermal structure,
hyaluronic acid and skin radiance. Artificial
intelligence also is used to assess its
emotional impact on the quality of life in
mature women.
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CT2103_Testing_Roca_fcx.indd 46 2/24/21 12:15 PM

GLOWING
GLOWING
Review Monk Fruit Encourages
Epigenetic Well Aging
Angela Roca, Ph.D., Miguel Pérez-Aso, Ph.D.
Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Ph.D., and Jordi Bosch
Provital S.A.U., Barcelona
A ging is characterized
by the accumulation
of macromolecular
damage, impaired tis-
sue renewal and
progressive loss of
physiological integrity. Over the past decade, a
growing number of studies also has revealed that
progressive changes to epigenetic information have
a major influence on the aging process. Lifestyle
habits, diet, pollution and other environmental
factors all impact the human life span by altering
changes in gene expression that do not involve
changes to the underlying DNA sequence.
Among the epigenetic modulators are microR-
NAs (miRNAs), a class of short, endogenous,
single-stranded, non-coding RNA molecules.
By binding a specific sequence of the target
messenger RNAs (mRNAs), the miRNA
modulators can regulate the expression of
multiple genes at the post-transcriptional
level through the degradation or translational
inhibition of the targeted transcripts, thereby
decreasing protein synthesis.2 Furthermore,
epigenetic information. Therefore, given the revers- a single miRNA can target up to several
ible nature of epigenetic mechanisms, these studies hundred mRNAs, and one gene may be
provide promising avenues for healthy aging.1 targeted by many different miRNAs. Thus,
Epigenetics refers to heritable and reversible by modulating miRNA levels, formulators
Vol. 136,in No.

Reproduction 3 or| March
English any other 2021 of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2021 Allured Business Media.
language Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 47

GLOWING Review
Hylauronic acid is the most abundant

glycosaminoglycan in skin and has an
important role in maintaining
water content and barrier integrity.
can significantly harmonize gene expression feel their best, both physically and emotionally.
regulatory networks. This paper describes the development of
Numerous miRNAs have been described an ingredienta for mature skin that takes a
with important regulatory roles in the differ- holistic physical and emotional approach to
ent hallmarks and processes of aging.3 More well aging. Based on an extract from monk
precisely in skin, miRNAs regulate cell senes- fruit or Momordica grosvenorii, a gourd of the
cence in both keratinocytes and fibroblasts;4 Cucurbitaceae family, the ingredient was first
they are involved in the stress response in the analyzed for anti-aging benefits in vitro and
extracellular matrix (ECM) with the loss of in vivo, then examined for emotional effects in
proteins such as collagen and elastin fibers;5 mature women.
and they are involved in the pathogenesis of
skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and In vitro Methods
psoriasis.6 Therefore, miRNAs intervene in Prior to all experiments, an initial cyto-
many of the pathways relevant to skin aging, toxicity assay was carried out with different
modulating gene expression and changing the concentrations of the activea to confirm its
aspect of aged skin, and increasing its fragility viability for aged fibroblasts.
and wrinkles, leading to drier skin. miRNA profiling in aged fibroblasts:
However, well aging is not only about limit- miRNA profiling analyses were carried out by
ing or reversing the biological/genetic factors microarray in normal aged dermal fibroblasts
involved in the aging process. Other important obtained from a 66-year-old woman, which were
components include maintaining high cogni- cultured in the absence or presence of the monk
tive and physical function, together with fruit-based active at 0.93% (i.e., 250 mg/mL).
engagement in life. There is a strong psycho- After 24 hr, fibroblasts were lysed and total RNA
logical component to a positive quality of life including miRNA was extractedb. Total RNA was
especially as people grow older, and emotions evaluated by spectrometryc and bioanalysisd to
play an outstanding role. In relation, several assess the RNA integrity and presence of miRNA
studies have shown the benefits of applying in the samples.
cosmetic products, which generates good For the microarray analysis, 250 ng of total
feelings and emotions in consumers. Based on RNA were labelede and hybridized to chipsf to
these findings, companies are now supporting allow for the detection of approximately 2,000
well aging by helping women to be, look and human miRNAsg. Finally, fluorescence intensi-
ties were determined using a 3D gene scanner
and analyzed using the R biostatistical software.
a
Wonderage (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Propanediol (and)
Monk fruit has been used in Traditional Glycerin (and) Cucurbitaceae Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol
(and) Lactobacillus/Brassica Nigra Seed Ferment Extract
Chinese Medicine for centuries for its anti- (and) Lactococcus Ferment Extract) is a product of Provital.
inflammatory properties to ease sore throats b
miRNeasy Mini Kit, Qiagen
and reduce phlegm.
c
NanoDrop, Thermo Scientific
d
2100 Bioanalyzer, Agilent
e
3D-Gene miRNA labeling kit and
f
3D-Gene human miRNA Oligo chips, version 21, are products
Source: Healthline Media of Toray Industries, Inc.
g
miRBase Release 21

Only the miRNAs that passed the normaliza- rate (FDR). The algorithm used in this analysis
tion filter were considered, and the significance consisted of a one-tailed Fisher test.
threshold was set at a fold-change (FC) of > 2.0 Explant treatment and processing: Skin
or < 0.5. explants from an abdominoplasty of a Caucasian
Bioinformatics analysis: To predict the woman also were prepared. The explants were
target genes of the miRNA profile, a compu- maintained in BEM culture mediumm at 37°C
tational approximation tool was utilizedh; the in a humid, 5% CO2 atmosphere. The active was
database used only collects the target genes diluted to a final concentration of 0.45% directly
of miRNAs that have been experimentally in the culture medium.
validated.7 To predict the target genes when the Explants were cultured for nine days and
number of experimentally validated target genes the culture medium was refreshed at days 2, 3,
was limited, an algorithmj was used instead. 6 and 8 either in the presence or absence of the
In parallel, a functional study was carried monk fruit active. After nine days in culture,
out to identify the molecular routes and path- three explants for each treatment were collected
ways noted in the Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and cut into two parts. Half was fixed in buffered
and Genomes (KEGG) and the Gene Ontology formol solution and half was frozen at -80°C.
(GO) through softwarek.8 For this study, limits Histological processing: After fixation
were set at a p value of 0.05 and a microT of for 24 hr in buffered formol, the samples were
0.80, along with the correction of false discovery dehydrated, impregnated in paraffin and embed-
dedn. Next, 5-μm thick sections were cut with a
h
miRTarBase v7.0
j
DIANA microT-CDS m
BIO-EC Explants Medium
k
DIANA-miRPath v3.0 n
Leica EG 1160 embedding station

GLOWING Review
microtome and mounted on histological glass immunostaining was performed on frozen

slideso. The frozen samples were cut into 7-μm sections using monoclonal and anti-decorin
thick sections using a cryostatp. Sections were antibodiess. Hyaluronic acid and decorin in
then mounted on silanized glass slidesq. histological sections were quantified by image
Staining procedure and quantification: processing softwaret.
Based on the results of the bioinformatics
analysis, two different stains were chosen and Clinical Studies
used on skin explant sections. Hyaluronic acid To evaluate the efficacy of the monk fruit
staining was carried out on paraffinized sections
active physically and emotionally, two different
using a biotinylated hyaluronic acid binding in vivo double-blind, randomized placebo-
protein (HABP)r. HABP is indicative of the controlled studies were carried out wherein
amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin. Decorin mature female test subjects applied a facial
treatment formula containing (or not, control)
o
Superfrost the test active at 2% twice daily for eight weeks
p
Leica CM 3050
q
Superfrost plus
(see Formula 1).
r
HABP, Amsbio Study I (physical assessments): This study
utilized different instruments to
quantify the efficacy of the product
on various skin properties, includ-
ing: hydrationu, biomechanical
parametersv, glossw, density and
crow’s feetx. In addition, the skin's
subepidermal low echo-genic band
(SLEB) y was captured. The SLEB is
a consistent echostructural finding
in aged and photodamaged skin
whose thickness is considered to
closely reflect the degree of cutane-
ous aging.9 It appears black in
ultrasonography due to the absence
of echo and higher water content,
which indicates some degeneration
of the collagen fibers. This study
Figure 1. Expression level reduction (%) of eight miRNAs by was carried out in 44 women, >
the test active 60 yr, and all instrumental measure-
ments were taken on the face.
Study II (emotional responses):
A second test comprised facial
Table 1. Pathways and Functions Regulated by the Eight expression decoding using FACET
miRNAs Identified algorithmsz and a technologyaa
coupling applied neuroscience with
Pathways Function artificial intelligence. This method-
O-glycan biosynthesis
Skin Structure
Keratan sulfate s
Santa Cruz Biotechnologies
t
ImageJ/FIJI, NIH
Lysine degradation Metabolism u
Corneometer CM825
P53 signaling v
Dual-Cutometer MPA 580
Proliferation, stress response, cell w
Glossymeter GL 200
HIF-1 signaling
adhesion x
AEVA-HE, Eotech
PI3K-Akt signaling y
Ultrasonography, 20 MHz probe,
Dermscan C-System
Cell cycle z
ImagineLab technology, Kernel Business
TGFβ signaling, metabolism
FOXO signaling Consulting
aa
Mindlogics methodology, Kernel
Business Consulting

ology obtains all the variables required for AI
to translate expressions into emotions that can
be quantified.
Monk fruit not only
This study was carried out in a second group
of 47 women, > 60 yr, whose conscious and
improved the physical
subconscious facial micro-expressions were
registeredaa in situ and analyzedaa as they were
aspects of mature skin, but
positioned in front of a computer with a camera, also the user's emotional
answered questionnaires and watched a video.
These tools were specifically designed to elicit well-being.
responses and emotions related to
the use of cosmetic products in gen-
eral, and to the experience of using
the monk fruit active compared with a)
the placebo.
Statistical analysis: Resulting
data was submitted to the Wilcoxon
test (p < 0.05).
In vitro and Ex vivo

Results and
Discussion
miRNA profiling in aged b)
fibroblasts: When the analysis
was limited to an FC < 0.5, a total
of eight novel miRNAs from 500 of
those differentially expressed were
revealed. The reduction in expres-
sion levels varied from 50% to 80%,
indicating the extract could limit
the general miRNA upregulation
observed with aging (see Figure 1
Figure 1). Figure 2. Changes in hyaluronic acid and decorin in
Bioinformatics analysis: untreated (a) and monk fruit-treated skin explants (b)
Little bibliographic information is

GLOWING Review
available about validated targets for this set of more information, this set of eight miRNAs was
miRNAs and their role except for miR-378a-3p, analyzed using bioinformaticsk. This revealed
which was recently found to be over-expressed the pathway most likely to be modulated by
in psoriatic skin, potentiating inflamma- miRNAs was the biosynthesis of glycosamino-
tory responses10 and playing an active role glycans (type O-glycans), together with keratan
in metabolism.11 As such, in order to gather sulfate, both of which are related to the proteo-
glycan pathway (see Table 1).1
This indicated that the gene
targets for this combination
of miRNAs modified by the
monk fruit active are related
to components of the ECM,
as well as to metabolism in
aged fibroblasts.
Explant staining:
Hyaluronic acid is the most
abundant glycosaminoglycan
in the skin and has an impor-
tant role in maintaining water
content and barrier integrity.
Proteoglycans such as decorin
maintain the mechanical
strength of skin and participate
in the formation of collagen
fibers. As explant staining and
image processing indicated,
Figure 3. Gloss measurements the monk fruit active induced
Epidermis
SLEB Dermis
Hypodermis
Epidermis
SLEB Dermis
Hypodermis
Figure 4. Evolution of skin density and SLEB from D0 to D56, as shown by

ultrasonography

a significant increase in endogenous hyaluronic the size and amount of black areas appearing
acid (+321% "dark pink" in Figure 2b) as well as directly beneath the white epidermis "line." The
an increase in decorin expression (+35% "bright placebo shows an increase in these black areas
green" in Figure 2b) in the papillary dermis, after 56 days, whereas they are nearly absent
compared with the control. These results cor- after treatment with the active, indicating it
roborate that the ingredient acts on the synthesis reversed the aging process.
of the ECM components through regulation of
the miRNA levels.
Clinical Results
Study I (physical a)
assessments): Two of the
most important concerns
in postmenopausal
women are dull and dry
skin. In relation, as deter-
mined by corneometeru,
treatment with 2% monk
fruit active improved skin
hydration by 22% after
28 days and 33% after 56
days, compared with the
placebo (data not shown).
The active also increased
luminosityw by 40% after
see Figure 3).
56 days (see Figure 3
Moreover, 2% monk
fruit active decreasedy the
number of crow’s feet by
b)
18.5% at D56, compared
with the placebo (p <
0.05). It also increased
skin elasticityv by 12%
after 56 days (p < 0.05);
notably, such improve-
ments also were observed
in unsupported areas of
the skin such as the neck
folds, where gravity's
effects are stronger (data
not shown).
Regarding skin
densityx, the test treat-
ment showed significant
increases of 16% and 28%
over the placebo after 28
and 56 days, respectively.
In addition, the active
Figure 5. Percentage of volunteers rating (via survey) or
decreased the SLEB thick- registering (via biometrics) the maximum positive scores for the
ness by 8% and 15% over given statements; direct responses from volunteers treated
the placebo at 28 and 56 with the active (a) and differences in subconscious responses
days, respectively. This is between the placebo and test treatment (b)
illustrated in Figure 4 by

Glowing Review
Monk fruit can be used as a natural active for well aging effects, providing physical and emotional benefits.
Taken together, these results showed

that the monk fruit active responded to the
essential needs of mature skin in three key
aspects: by restoring natural glow, filling
and redensifying the dermis, and hydrating
the skin.
Study II (emotional responses): It is
known that 95% of human decisions are
made by the subconscious mind. As such,
this work also analyzed whether volunteers
were thinking differently following treat-
ment with the active. Results showed a
positive impact on both conscious and
subconscious levels in response to the
active, although the effect was stronger at
the subconscious level (see Figure 5a).
In addition, a noticeable difference
in subconscious responses was observed
between the placebo and test active; 67%
of women treated with the active felt
enthusiastic, 63% felt satisfied and 58% felt
happy and "fantastic" at a subconscious
level—compared with 17%, 39% and 26%,
see Figure 5b);
respectively (see 5b note that only
data for "totally agree" and "yes" responses
Figure 6. Impact on positive emotions of placebo are shown here.
and test treatments (subconscious responses) Further analysis of the emotional
impact of the active on subjects' lives indi-

Formula 1. Clinical Study Test Formula
Ingredients Monk fruit active Placebo

facial treatment (% w/w) facial treatment (% w/w)
Water (Aqua) qs to 100.00 qs to 100.00
Water (Aqua) (and) Propanediol
(and) Glycerin (and) Cucurbitaceae
Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol
(and) Lactobacillus/Brassica
Nigra Seed Ferment Extract
(and) Lactococcus Ferment
Extract (Wonderage, Provital) 2.00 n/a
Glycerin 2.00 2.00
1,2-Hexanediol 2.00 2.00
Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate 1.10 1.10
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 0.75 0.75
Xanthan Gum 0.30 0.30
Potassium Sorbate 0.20 0.20
Citric Acid 0.10 0.10
Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 0.05
Caramel 0.00 0.01
*pH adjusted to 5.2-5.8 *pH adjusted to 5.2-5.8
cated the most relevant feeling to be happiness References

see Figure 6
(see Figure 6). Surprisingly, health and well-being 1. Pal, S. and Tyler, J.K. (2016). Epigenetics and aging. Science
were also top responses, together with wrinkle Advances 2(7) e1600584.
reduction. Notably, the impact on positive emo- 2. Thalyana, S.V. and Slack, F.J. (2012). MicroRNAs and their roles in
aging. J Cell Sci 125 7-17.
tions was always greater for volunteers using the
3. Ugalde, A.P., Español, Y. and C. López-Otín (2011). Micromanag-
monk fruit active than those using the placebo. ing aging with miRNAs: New messages from the nuclear envelope.
Taken together, mature women treated with 2% Nucleus 2(6) 549-555.
monk fruit active showed improvements in skin 4. Mancini, M., Lena, A. ... Candi, E., et al. (2014). MicroRNAs in
parameters and their sense of well-being. human skin aging. Aging Res Rev 17 9-15.
5. Edeleva, E. V., and Shcherbata, H. R. (2013). Stress-induced ECM
Conclusion alteration modulates cellular microRNAs that feedback to readjust

the extracellular environment and cell behavior. Front Gen 4(305).
This work describes the identification of https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24427166/
several novel miRNAs in dermal fibroblasts whose 6. Hawkes, J. E., Nguyen, G. H., Fujita, M., Florell, S. R., Callis Duffin,
K., Krueger, G. G., and O’Connell, R. M. (2016). microRNAs in
expressions are implicated in the regulation of
psoriasis. J Invest Dermatol 136(2) 365-371.
ECM components. In relation, an ingredient 7. Chou, C.H., Shrestha, S., Yang, C.D., Chang, N.W., Lin, Y.L., Liao,
based on monk fruit extracta was developed K.W. and Huang, H.D. (2018). miRTarBase update 2018: a resource
and tested, and shown to act on these miRNAs for experimentally validated microRNA-target interactions. Nucleic
Acids Res 46(D1) D296–D302. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.
to rebalance their expression, increasing the gov/29126174/
synthesis of different components of the ECM 8. Vlachos, I. S., Zagganas, K., Paraskevopoulou, M. D., Georgakilas,
and improving fibroblast function, thus demon- G., Karagkouni, D., Vergoulis, T. and Hatzigeorgiou, A. G. (2015).
strating well-aging benefits. DIANA-miRPath v3.0: Deciphering microRNA function with experi-
mental support. Nucleic Acids Res 43(W1) W460–W466.
In vivo, the monk fruit active also signifi-
9. Gniadecka, M., Gniadecki, R., Serup, J. and Søndergaard, J. (1994,
cantly increased skin hydration, luminosity and Mar). Ultrasound structure and digital image analysis of the subepi-
density. What's more, it positively influenced the dermal low echogenic band in aged human skin: Diurnal changes
subconscious emotions of volunteers, increas- and interindividual variability. J Invest Dermatol 102(3) 362-5. https://
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8120420/
ing indicators of happiness and quality of life.
10. Pasquali, L., Xia, P., Srivastava, A., Pivarcsi, A., and Sonkoly, E.
In summary, the ingredient not only improved (2019). miR-378a is overexpressed in psoriasis keratinocytes and
the physical aspects of mature skin, but also the potentiates IL-17A mediated inflammatory responses. J Invest
emotional well-being of users, to create a holistic Dermatol 139(9S) S276.
well aging experience. 11. Machado, I.F., Teodoro, J.S., Palmeira, C.M. and Rolo, A.P. (2019).
miR-378a: a new emerging microRNA in metabolism. Cell Mol Life
Sci. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00018-019-03375-z.

Formulating | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Multifunctional beauty products are making
their way into the market for new consumer
experiences and effects that are memorable.
• Discussed herein are evolving product

structures, formulas and application
intended to reinforce the
consumer interaction.
Peer-reviewed
Playful Textures
Formulating Forum
T
Developing Interactive Makeup
echnology and science continue to improve the

Nicola Lionetti quality of our lives. Consequently, opportunities to
Rigano Labs, S.r.L., Milan use novel technologies and materials, and to imple-
ment tools of the beauty industry, will multiply.
Today, cosmetic brands face the challenge of
providing consumers with increasingly interac-
tive and new, personalized experiences. The days of general beauty

CT2103_Formulating_Lionetti_fcx.indd 48 2/17/21 3:08 PM

Non-transfer products
that are compatible
with mask-wearing are
‘must haves’ today.
products are an object of luxury in the bathroom. Consumers

over. Formulae buy the box and a refill with a subscription for
personalization refills sent regularly.1, 2
is the key—the In this fast-paced market, the color segment
next generation of is driven to become a pioneer in disruptive
beauty experiences innovations, agilely proposing new products as
will be specifically consumers’ needs are uncovered and validated,
tailor-designed for and identifying future concepts. This column
modern consumers. explores modern product formats to meet today’s
Artificial intelligence consumer needs, along with approaches to
algorithms will formulate them.
enable brands to
offer product recom- Multifaceted Performance
mendations based Today’s makeup performances must be
on consumers’ physi- outstanding, especially under the spotlight of
cal characteristics social media. Consumers are also becoming
such as skin tone, more sophisticated, mimicking techniques used
physiology or facial by backstage makeup artists, and they have, at
shape; and based their fingertips, easy-to-use, at-home kits with
on individually all the tools, e.g., for perfectly groomed brows
marked preferences and defined eyes. These kits typically include an
for makeup prod- assembly of brow powders with a double applica-
ucts. (For more on tor; transparent holding wax and a brush to set
personalization, turn brows; precision mini tweezers for “on-the-go”
to Page 26). grooming; and powder eye shadows to contour
Market strategies and define the eyes.3
are offering dynamic Similarly, multifunctional color correctors are
experiences as well. fused into one stick with two texture layers and
Now, products can three application areas—specifically designed to
be multipurposely mask imperfections in skin tone, eye contour and
applied, providing lips. At their core, the sticks incorporate a central
new experiences and formula enriched with a soft focus powder to
effects similar to
those achieved in a
salon or makeup artist’s studio; or the illusion
The global color cosmetics market is expected
of such.
to reach ~US $91.8 billion by 2027, exhibiting a
“Clean,” blue and sustainable beauty con-
CAGR of 3.6% between 2020 and 2027.
cepts are perhaps less innovative but still very
fashionable—particularly refillable products.
Everything is becoming refillable, from deodor- Source: Fortune Business Insights
ants and cleansers to concealers and lipsticks.
For these concepts, product containers become

Playful Textures
produce an even appearance on the skin surface.

The outer full coverage shade conceals color A ‘Mosaic’ of
imperfections such as dark circles, pigmented Sensory Stimuli
spots and slight redness.4 A close look at the
ingredient list reveals that both the core and Check out Page 58 in our
outer textures have the same base structure Nov/Dec 2020 digital magazine.
made of branched chain esters such as polyglyc-
eryl-2 tri-isostearate and isononyl isononanoate;
and waxes, such as polyethylene wax and Cera In terms of lip products, the best-performing
microcrystallina (microcrystalline wax). The formulas are mainly fluid with anhydrous or
only difference is the presence of pigments in w/o systems. In the case of anhydrous sys-
the outer layer. tems, the oil phase is made of non-polar oils
(branched or linear hydrocarbons) with the
Non-transfer Anhydrous and volatile silicone being replaced by isododecane
or short-chain dimethicone. Waxes and fatty
W/O Systems alcohols are almost absent. The percentage
Considering the pandemic, in terms of of a polymer is significant, as nylon-611/
product development, several brands have dimethicone copolymer, glyceryl behenate/
shifted from colors and trending effects to more eicosadioate and hydrogenated styrene/isoprene
practical efficacies. Non-transfer products, copolymer act as thickeners and film-formers,
for example, that are compatible with mask- and often have surprising emollient proper-
wearing are “must-haves” today. (For more on ties. In the case of silicone polymers or resins,
transfer-proof cosmetics, turn to Page 36.) they could also create a semi-occlusive layer,
increasing skin hydration at the same time
Formula 1. Mousse Foundation while improving color retention and enhancing
fragrance delivery.
Ingredients % w/w W/O emulsions are mainly based on
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Stearalkonium silicone emulsifiers, e.g., cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate 7.58 dimethicone or PEG-10 dimethicone, or
Dicaprylyl Carbonate 4.40 the usual amphiphilic molecules made of
Dicaprylyl Ether 4.40 polyglyceryl chains esterified with isostearyl
Cetyl Alcohol 1.32 moieties, including polyglyceryl-2 di-isostearate,
Dimethicone 2.20 polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, etc. Non-transfer
Squalane 3.00 performance is achieved by multiplying inter-
Silica Dimethyl Silylate 5.70 penetrating polymeric networks, whose two
Polymethyl Methacrylate 7.50 different ionic structures increase the adhesion
Kaolin 8.80 to skin, decreasing the setting time and while
CI 77492 1.14 still allowing controlled removability without
CI 77491 (and) CI 77492 (and) CI 77499 1.01 compromising water resistance.5
CI 77891 9.06 Recent studies show that a mixture made
Preservatives qs of phytic acid, a poly-anion such as CMC and
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 4.10 a poly-cation, e.g., poly-lysine, is capable of
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Wax 2.60 instantly forming a dynamic, ionically cross-
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil (and) Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 7.00 linked gel (DIC-gel). This particular polymer
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer 1.80 network is resilient as it adapts its shape and
Cyclopentasiloxane 14.50 function in order to provide resistance against
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone multiple external threats such as UV, sebum/
Crosspolymer 0.90 sweat, water and friction. Moreover, its protec-
Water (Aqua) 9.63 tive film is sustained by special self-healing
Disodium EDTA 0.03 film properties.6, 7
Glycerin 0.60
Allantoin 0.10 Transforming Textures
Sodium Hyaluronate 0.10 The continuous evolution of textures does
not stop, even among compact powders. The

hybrid formula of a powder and lipo-gel creates satisfactory, creating a final evanescent feel.
a filler effect capable of unifying the complexion The final touch of a product must be special.
and illuminating the face.8, 9 This also imparts It should be more than just simply picking up
a surprising touch, pure color effect, maximum the product to apply it to skin—but a new expe-
smoothness and long-lasting performance. rience all on its own. Playing with ingredients,
Crucial to this system is the introduction of an a standard powder texture can become more
oil network, which improves the functionality of like a “soft pillow on which to rest your fingers.”
the finished product. Barrier capacity and water For example, starting with a standard eye
retention properties are also improved, and the
film deposited onto skin is not tacky, guarantee-
ing a lasting effect.10
Formula 2. Cushion Eye Shadow
An example is given in Formula 1, 1 wherein
the selected fillers are silica dimethyl silylate, Ingredients % w/w
polymethyl methacrylate and kaolin at a total Magnesium Stearate 1.00-5.00
amount near 25%. The oil phase is made of Silica 1.00-5.00
approximately 20% silicone and silicone poly- Talc 25.00-50.00
mers, with the remaining part being esters and Boron Nitride 5.00-10.00
pigments. The result is a soft mousse with a par- CI 77499 25.00-50.00
ticular velvety touch and silky spreadability. The CI 77499 (and) CI 77891 (and) Mica 5.00-10.00
aqueous phase characteristics make the product Isostearyl Neopentanoate 10.00-25.00
more suitable for dry skin. The formula gives Cera microcristallina 1.00-5.00
a healthy skin feel and the absorption speed is Dimethicone (and) Dimethiconol 10.00-25.00
slow, while the covering power is natural and

Playful Textures
Soft and lightweight jelly

formulas are satisfying
to the touch and come
in a wide range of
applications.
shadow formula, increasing the wetting/binding

ingredients, i.e., isostearyl neopentanoate, Cera
microcrystalline, dimethicone and dimethiconol,
etc., can significantly change the powdery
see Formula 2).
texture (see 2
Beyond modifying skin color, makeup
products can condition the skin, improve its
physiological function and restore barrier capac-
ity. To this end, increasing developments have
been made with balm products, in applications
such as highlighters, lip balms, eye shadows and
body glitters.11 Such formulas are mainly anhy-
drous textures, rich in vegetable and synthetic
waxes for obtaining a melting experience, or
made of jellified polar oils for a higher emollient
feel. In some cases, a small amount of water is
introduced to support hydrosoluble actives such
as urea, allantoin, hyaluronic acid, etc.
Transforming textures can be fun and
Formula 3. Jelly Blush interactive, which is a big element to show-
ing off a new beauty product application on
social networks. Balms that become oils and
Ingredients % w/w gels that change to foams are already being
Water (Aqua) qs to 100.00 researched for brands. An example of high
Glycerin 1.00-5.00 coverage powder makeup-to-o/w emulsion with
Sodium Hyaluronate < 1.00 a jelly texture is shown in Formula 3. 3 Here, the
Butylene Glycol (and) Polyurethane-59 initial application step with a powdery finish
(and) Water (Aqua) (and) Tocopherol 5.00-10.00 is followed by a fresh jelly feel, not common to
Isostearyl Alcohol (and) Butylene this type of product. In research development,
Glycol Cocoate (and) Ethylcellulose 1.00-5.00 these types of makeup products are now hotter
Cetearyl Isononanoate 1.00-5.00 than ever and afford formulators the opportu-
Isoamyl Laurate 5.00-10.00 nity to showcase their skills and creativity in
CI 77491 (and) CI 77891 (and) Silica texture-changing formulas.
(and) Mica 5.00-10.00
Alumina (and) CI 77491 1.00-5.00 Makeup Remover
Boron Nitride 1.00-5.00 Makeup application has become an emo-
pH Adjuster qs tional experience. Similarly, consumers want
makeup removal to go beyond simple cleansing.

Examples include a sheet mask that fizzes to 2. Wearewild.com. Wild UK. (Accessed on 2020, Dec) https://
www.wearewild.com/
a refreshing bubble mask within minutes for
3. Kit Sourcils Pro Perfect Eyes & Brows Palette. Clarins.
a cleansing and detoxifying effect. Or, a mild (Accessed on 2020, Dec): https://www.clarinsusa.com/en/
makeup-removing cleansing balm that turns kit-sourcils-pro-perfect-eyes-brows-palette/C050106018.
into an oil when applied to the skin. By add- html
ing water, the oil then turns into a milky white 4. Fix It: 2-in-1 Prime & Conceal Face-Eyes-
Lips. Dior.com. (Accessed on 2020, Dec):
fluid that easily removes oil and water-soluble https://www.dior.com/en_ie/products/
impurities while rinsing. These formulas are beauty-Y0929570-fix-it-2-in-1-prime-conceal-face-eyes-lips
usually created with an anhydrous base rich 5. Panteli, P.A. and Patrickios, C.S. (2018, Sep 18). Complex
in polar oils, such as triglycerides and simple hydrogels based on multiply interpenetrated polymer net-
works: enhancement of mechanical properties via network
esters, jellified with a wax, e.g., beeswax or a multiplicity and mon-omer concentration. Macromolecules
similar ingredient. The milky texture in the 51(19) 7533-7545. https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acs.
rinse-off step is obtained with the addition of macromol.8b01656
a high amount of ethoxylated esters or ethers, 6. Asanuma, H., et al. (2020). Environment adapting self-
healing hydrogel for ultimate skin protection. The IFSCC
such as PPG-15 stearyl ether or PEG-20 glyceryl Congress 2020 Yokohama.
tri-isostearate.12, 13 7. Talebian, S., et al. (2019, Jun 14). Self-healing hydrogels:
Jelly forms seem to be the most requested The next paradigm shift in tissue engineering? Adv Sci
in recent months. Soft and lightweight, these 6(16). https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/
advs.201801664
formulas are satisfying to the touch and come in
8. Illusion D’ombre. Chanel.com. (Accessed on Dec,
a wide range of applications, from cleansers and 2020): https://www.chanel.com/no/makeup/p/189950/
gel moisturizers, to masks and balms.14 illusion-dombre-long-wear-luminous-eyeshadow/
9. Lo-fi Lip Mousse. Urbandecay.com. (Accessed on Dec,
Conclusion 2020): https://www.urbandecay.com/lo-fi-lip-mousse-urban-
decay/ud912.html#tab=Tabs_wk4p1qml0zl_control_2
After the recurring wave of biotic ingredi-
10. Okumiya, M., Minamoto, M., Saito, A. and Taniguchi, H.
ents, sustainable beauty and “clean” products, (2012, Oct) Study on the oil gel design filler product and
the cosmetic formulating world can dedicate its moisturizing effect. IFSCC 2012 15-18, Sandton, South
Africa.
itself to surprising consumers with sensorial
11. Raw inventions eco flitter balm 15G. Beautykitchen.co.uk.
enchantment, as product structures and their
(Accessed on 2020, Dec): https://beautykitchen.co.uk/
evolution during application becoming increas- products/eco-glitter-balm
ingly important. Consumers constantly seek 12. 6 new products that toally transform on contact. Influenster.
new and pleasant product experiences. With (Accessed on 2020, Dec): https://www.influenster.com/
article/beauty-products-that-change-texture/slideshow/4
that, recent cosmetic formulae are intended to
13. Azeem, A., et al. (2008). Emerging role of microemulsions
reinforce the “let’s play” characteristic we all
in cosmetics. Recent Pat Drug Deliv Formul 2(3) 275-289.
need in difficult times. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19075913/
14. McLintock, K. (Updated 2020, Oct 30). These 15 jelly-
textured beauty products are like ASMR. Bydrie.com.
References
https://www.byrdie.com/best-jelly-beauty-products
1. Hughes, S. (2019, Jul 6). The best refillable lip-
sticks. Guardian News & Media Ltd. Available at:
https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jul/06/
best-refillable-lipsticks-sali-hughes

KEY POINTS
• Litchi is a fruit native to Thailand that has
been used throughout history for various
health-related advantages.
• In this article, the natural properties and

benefits of litchi peel extract are examined,
with a focus on skin brightening effects.
facebook.com/CandTmagazine Cosmetics & Toiletries @cosmeticsandtoiletries

CT2103_Formulating_Lourith_fcx.indd 54 2/17/21 3:25 PM

Fruitful
Peer-reviewed
Skin Benefits Litchi Peel Extract for Natural Brightening
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D., and Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul, Ph.D.

Mae Fah Luang University, Thailand
L itchi (Litchi chinensis

Sonn.), or lychee, is a fruit
with a particular flavor and
taste that has long been
used as a medicinal herb
in several Asian recipes for
weight control, lowering cholesterol and diabetes
treatment. It also has an anti-inflammatory effect
due to pharmacologically active phenolics, which
have been shown to mitigate obesity-associated
metabolic syndrome. Accordingly, it is widely
cultivated in Asian countries including Thailand, as
Litchi is domestically commercialized and
exported internationally. The amount of fruit
processed tends to increase every year to meet
growing demand, resulting in agricultural waste
mainly of the peel or pericarp. The sustainable
transformation of this litchi peel waste into a
specialty ingredient for cosmetics affords an
opportunity to meet consumer demand for natural
cosmetics. This effort, in turn, would become an
integral part of agricultural, environmental, food
and cosmetic science, leading to a successive
circular bioeconomy for litchi through its inclusion
it is one of the country’s most important fruit crops, in eco-friendly, sustainable and natural cosmetics.
especially in Chiang Rai where the Emperor cultivar, As such, the current work examined the potential
a golf ball-sized fruit with a slightly acidic flavor,1 of litchi peel extract for skin benefits in vitro and
is cultivated as the signature fruit product. in vivo, as described next.

Fruitful Skin Benefits
The biological activities of litchi peel extract

are attributed to its phenolic content.
In vitro Testing in comparison with kojic acid as the bench-

Extract preparation: Litchi peel from the mark.1, 2 The cytotoxicity of the extract also was
Emperor cultivar was collected from a local examined in B16F10 melanoma cells, followed
litchi processing factory. A standardized extract by its actions on melanogenesis, tyrosinase and
was then prepared by washing the peels with tyrosinase-related proteins-2 (TRP-2), tested at
tap water, air drying under shade, oven drying, the determined safe concentration range.3
then grinding into powder for extraction; full Phenolics content and analysis: The Total
details of the sample preparation process are Phenolics Content (TPC) of the extract was
described elsewhere.2 analyzed by Folin-Ciocalteu assay.1, 2 In addi-
Antioxidant activity: In vitro, the extract tion, the content of cosmetic active phenolics
was assessed for antioxidant activity by ABTS (2, in the extract was determined by the validated
2'–azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline)-6-sulfonic UPLC method.1, 2
acid), DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) Test formulas: Finally, skin brightening
and superoxide anion radical (O2•−) scavenging serums incorporating the extract (or not, as the
assays and compared with the standards.1-3 control) were developed (see Formula 1) 1) and
Anti-tyrosinase, cytotoxicity and anti- physicochemically evaluated and stability tested
melanogenesis: Inhibitory effects of the extract using a centrifugation assay and 7 heat/cool
against mushroom tyrosinase were assessed cycles.4, 5 The same formulas were then used for
in vivo testing.
Formula 1. Litchi Peel Extract In vivo Testing
Test Serum*
For in vivo testing, a study protocol, described
next, following the Declaration of Helsinki and
Water (Aqua) Tokyo guidelines for humans was developed and
Carbomer approved by the ethics committee of Mae Fah
Propylene Glycol Luang University.
Disodium EDTA Skin irritation: The safety of the developed
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Caster Oil litchi serums was assessed in 29 Thai volunteers
Tocopheryl Acetate (20 female, 9 male) by a single application closed
1,3-Butylene Glycol patch test for 24 hr on the volar forearms. Skin
Phenoxyethanol irritation severity was graded from 0-4 to calcu-
Polysorbate 20 late the Mean Irritation Index (MII). An MII < 0.2
Fragrance (Parfum) was interpreted as negative or zero irritation. The
Triethanolamine, 99% base and litchi serums were examined in parallel
with 0.5% sodium lauryl sulfate (positive control)
*proprietary formula; % w/w levels intentionally omitted
and water (negative control).4, 5
Forearm skin brightening: A random-
ized, double-blind placebo-controlled study was
By the end of 2019, sales of serums and oils conducted in 24 healthy female volunteers who
went up, with “brightening/illuminating” being applied one of the formula samples, i.e., the
the top claim in the UK for women’s skin care. vehicle, or 0.05% or 0.01% litchi serum, twice
This is a 22% increase from 2017-2018. daily, morning and evening, to their forearms to
analyze potential skin brightening efficacy. The
color of treated skin was measureda at baseline
Source: Mintel
a
Mexameter MX 18, Courage & Khazaka

Table 1. In vitro Data of Litchi Peel Extract Testing
In vitro activity (IC50, µg/mL) TPC Phenolic quantity (g/kg)

Rosmarinic
ABTS DPPH O2•− Tyrosinase (g GAE/100 g) Gallic acid Quercetin
acid
7.14 ± 2.29 ± 29.57 ± 197.80 ± 35.91 ± 0.22 ± 0.15 ± 0.15 ±
Litchi
0.00 0.06 0.30 1.23 2.14 0.00 0.04 0.13
6.35 ± 3.40 ±
Vitamin C - - - - - -
0.09 0.02
31.88 ±
Quercetin - - - - - - -
0.15
36.50 ±
Kojic acid - - - - - - -
0.60
and after 2, 4, 8, 12 and 16 weeks (112 days) In vitro Results

of application.4, 5
The extract proved to be a potent antioxidant,
Facial skin brightening: In addition to the
significantly stronger than vitamin C (p < 0.01),
forearms, the potential brightening efficacy of
as exhibited by ABTS, DPPH and O2•− assays
litchi serums were tested on facial skin. Here, a
(see Table 1).1 Accordingly, the results suggested
split-face, randomized, single-blind controlled
potential skin brightening ability, leading to
study was undertaken in the same group of
additional testing.6, 7
volunteers, who again applied the 0.05% and
Tyrosinase inhibition by the extract was weaker
0.10% litchi serums twice daily. Efficacy was
than the standard kojic acid. Nonetheless, it was
monitored in the same manner.4, 5
more potent than the standard in suppressing
Sensory ratings: The litchi serums were
cellular melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells.
rated by volunteers for their sensory character-
Moreover, anti-melanogenesis was proven through
istics using a hedonic scale from 1-5 (1 = dislike,
its ability to inhibit tyrosinase and TRP-2, which
5 = most prefer) and interview questionnaires to
was significantly (p < 0.01) more potent than kojic
calculate a final “preference percentage.”4, 5
acid in both cases at the same concentration (see
Statistical significance: All parameters
Figure 1)).3 These biological activities are governed
Figure 1
were compared and analyzedb using the t test
by the pharmaceutically active phenolics in the
and ANOVA test, at a significance of p < 0.05.
extract,6, 7 identified as gallic acid, rosmarinic acid
and quercetin.1-3
b
SPSS program version 16.0, IBM
Figure 1. Anti-melanogenesis activities of the litchi peel extract and kojic acid in B16F10
melanoma cells

Taken together, the litchi peel extract showed the control) for clinical testing.4, 5 These formu-
promise as a potential natural skin brightening las also were stable under the same conditions.
agent, leading to clinical assessments in human
volunteers. As such, a serum (see Formula 1
Formula 1) In vivo Results
was developed for clinical testing. Initially, its As noted, the irritation potential of the test
base was subjected to physicochemical assess- serums was first examined. The litchi-containing
ments. The formula was found to be stable after and base serums showed no preliminary skin
accelerated tests, the centrifugation assay and 7 irritation, registering an MII equal to water (MII
heat/cool cycles. The litchi peel extract was then = 0).4, 5 Thus, they were confirmed to be safe for
added to the base at 0.05% or 0.10% (or not, as efficacy evaluations in human volunteers.
Skin brightening effi-
cacy was next assessed in
a long-term application
study wherein volunteers
applied the 0.05% or 0.10%
litchi serums to their inner
forearms twice daily for 112
consecutive days (16 weeks).
Results showed the 0.10%
litchi serum significantly (p
< 0.001) brightened the skin
tone of the forearms better
than the base serum at all
measured time points. At
0.05%, the litchi serum also
brightened skin tone—less
than the 0.10% litchi serum
but significantly (p < 0.05)
greater than the base—after
Figure 2. Skin brightening efficacies of litchi serums on more than 2 months of treat-
forearm skin ment (see Figure 2) 2).4, 5 On the
contrary, untreated skin areas
darkened as time passed. In
addition, after 4 months of
treatment, none of the volun-
teers reported adverse effects,
which further confirms the
safety of the developed serum.
The observed skin brightening
activity can be attributed to
the extract’s aforementioned
inhibitory effect against
melanogenesis via the sup-
pression of tyrosinase and
TRP-2, thanks to its phenolic
constituents.1, 3
Next, the skin brightening
efficacies of the litchi serums
were evaluated on subjects’
faces. The same group of
volunteers were randomly
Figure 3. Skin brightening efficacies of litchi serums on facial skin divided into two groups and
applied 0.05% and 0.10%

Litchi peel extract showed greater
brightening efficacy on facial skin than on
forearm skin.
litchi serums in a split-face protocol.
Facial skin brightening efficacy proved
to be greater at the higher concentra-
tion (see Figure 3).
3 The 0.10% litchi
serum significantly (p = 0.005) bright-
ened the skin better than 0.05% litchi
serum after 2 weeks of application and
longer (pw2vsw12 = 0.005).
It also should be noted that the skin
brightening activity of litchi peel extract
was more effective on the face than the
forearm. Additionally, all volunteers
again reported no adverse effects,
confirming the serum’s safety.
Finally, the volunteers rated the
sensory properties of the litchi serum
applied to their faces. More than 70%
(n = 29) indicated they preferred the
formula (see Figure 4).4 In addition,
they noted observed skin brightening Figure 4. Sensorial evaluations by volunteers
efficacy. Ratings for skin hydration,

Litchi peel offers a renewable material from agricultural waste produced as a byproduct of fruit processing.
References
Blooming with Benefits 1. Kanlayavattanakul, M., Ospondpant, D., Ruktanonchai, U.
and Lourith, N. (2012, Sep 10). Biological activity assess-
ment and phenolic compounds characterization from the
Check out page 62 in our May 2020. fruit pericarp of Litchi chinensis for cosmetic application.
Pharm Biol 50(11) 1384-1390. https://europepmc.org/
article/med/22889092
2. Lourith, N. and Kanlayavattanakul, M. (2015, Nov 12).
Preparation of the standardized fruit extracts with inhibitory
effects against elastase and collagenase. Thailand Paddy
smoothness and firmness increased this prefer-
Patent No. 10747. Int. Cl.10: C07C 7/10
ence to more than 80%.
3. Lourith, N., Kanlayavattanakul, M., Chaikul, P., Chansrini-
yom, C. and Bunwatcharaphansakun, P. (2017). In vitro
Conclusion and cellular activities of the selected fruits residues for
skin aging treatment. An Acad Bras Ciênc (89) 577-589.
The standardized litchi peel extract described http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pi
herein demonstrated skin brightening efficacy d=S0001-37652017000200577
in vivo and ex vivo, in addition to antioxidant 4. Lourith, N. and Kanlayavattanakul, M. (2019, Dec 26). Cos-
activity shown in vitro and by chemical profiling. meceutical product containing litchi peel extract. Thailand
Paddy Patent Application No. 1803003007.
Furthermore, physicochemical testing confirmed
5. Lourith, N. and Kanlayavattanakul, M. (2020, Mar).
its compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients Formulation and clinical evaluation of the standardized Litchi
and the developed litchi serum was found to chinensis extract for skin hyperpigmentation and aging
be safe, effective and, as rated by volunteers, treatments. Ann Pharm Fr 78(2) 142-149. https://pubmed.
ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32089252/
preferred in the tested cosmetic application.
6. Lourith, N. and Kanlayavattanakul, M. (2018, Apr). Skin
Regarding the extract’s sourcing, litchi peel hyperpigmentation treatment using herbs: a review of clini-
offers a renewable material from agricultural cal evidences. J Cosmet Laser Ther 20(2) 123-131. https://
waste produced as a byproduct of fruit process- pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28853960/
ing. As such, the risk for scarcity in its sourcing is 7. Lourith, N. and Kanlayavattanakul, M. (2018, Sep). Plants
and natural products for the treatment of skin hyperpig-
low. Taken together, litchi peel supports a circular mentation—A review. Planta Med 84(14) 988-1006. https://
economy while meeting the demands of cosmetic pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29506294/
consumers seeking sustainability with efficacy.6, 7

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These prototype formulas are offered for

your consideration as a basis from which
to build your own for further testing and
validation. The information is listed as
originally provided by suppliers; note that
in some cases, companies or ingredients
may have changed.
Want More Formulas?
Naturals Formulary
Check out page DM13 for the expanded
formulary, complete with interactive links to the
free Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference.
CONDITIONING BODY BALM Procedure: For A, mix water under lightening mixer agitation and create a vortex.
Sprinkle in hydroxyethylcellulose. When fully dispersed, add glycerin. Heat to 60°C.
(Acme-Hardesty Co.) Mix B into A for 10 min or until fully dispersed at 60°C. Cool under agitation. When
batch reaches 40°C, add C; properties: appearance = white lotion; pH = 5.5-6.5.
This rich body balm is formulated with natural butters,
oils and esters to provide deep moisture to skin. The
conditioning formula melts on touch to soothe dry, CHARCOAL CHAMELEON
irritated skin and to restore hydration. CLAY MASK
A. Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil 14.44% w/w (Grant Industries Inc.)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 16.67
Triolein (EnSense Luxe TO, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 14.44 A. Water (aqua) 47.10% w/w
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil 2.22 Water (aqua) (and) Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract (and)
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter 20.89 Eleutherococcus Senticosus Root Extract (and)
Virola Sebifera Nut Oil (Uccúba Butter, Citroleo) 20.89 Rhaponticum Carthamoides Root Extract (and) Inonotus
Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax MP 70, Obliquus (Mushroom) Extract (and) Selaginella
Acme-Hardesty Co.) 10.45 Lepidophylla Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Sodium
100.00 Benzoate (Resurgent Power BCR, Bio Component
Research) 5.00
Procedure: Add all ingredients to main beaker, mixing after each addition. Heat batch
Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer
to 80°C. Mix batch until homogenous.
(Granpowder QSC, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00
Glycerin 5.00
B. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 2.80
NATURALLY PRESERVED Xanthan Gum 0.10
HAND LOTION C. Kaolin 16.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium
(Bio-Botanica Inc.)
Sorbate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Hexylene Glycol
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w (Jeecide CAP-5, Jeen International Corp.) 1.00
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.25 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.50
Glycerin 6.00 D. Coconut Alkanes (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Water (aqua)
B. Emulsifying Wax NF 7.00 (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Decyl
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.00 Glucoside (Gransil SiW-GVL, Grant Industries Inc.) 10.00
Zea Mays (Corn) Oil 4.00 Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer/
Cetyl Alcohol 3.00 Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel 600, Seppic) 1.50
Origanum Vulgare Flower Extract (and) Thymus Mannitol (and) Cellulose (and) Iron Oxides (and) Charcoal
Vulgaris (Thyme) Extract (and) Rosmarinus Officinalis Powder (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)
(Rosemary) Leaf Extract (and) Lavandula Angustifolia Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (Lipobead Detox with
(Lavender) Extract (and) Hydrastis Canadensis Charcoal, Vantage Specialty Ingredients) 5.00
(Golden Seal) Root Extract (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) 100.00
Leaf Extract (and) Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Procedure: Combine A in main kettle equipped with homongenizer. Heat to 75-80°C.
Peel Extract (and) Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Extract Mix until uniform. When at proper temperature, sequentially sprinkle in B. Mix until
(and) Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract (Suprapein, uniform. Switch to side sweep and cool. At 40-45°C, add C sequentially to main
Bio-Botanica Inc.) 0.45 kettle. Weigh D in side kettle and mix until uniform. Add to main kettle with slow
C. Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Certified mixing. Product use: Massage gently on the face, avoiding eye area, to activate
Organic Licorice Root Extract, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 0.30 charcoal. Allow to sit for a few minutes and rinse clean with warm water.
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (Certified Organic
Calendula Extract, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 0.30
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract (Certified
Organic Chamomile Extract, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 0.30
CT2103_Naturals_Frmlry_fcx.indd 62 2/17/21 3:33 PM

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ensuring reliable insights to meet
cosmetic consumer demands.
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EXPANDED Naturals Formulary
Butylated Hydroxytoluene 0.05

COCONUT BODY BUTTER B. Preservatives qs
(Grant Industries Inc.) Fragrance (parfum) qs
Procedure: Heat A to 70-80°C until complete solubilization with gentle homogeniza-
A. Water (aqua) 60.10% w/w
tion. At 40°C, add B to A and homogenize.
Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced
Materials, Inc.) 0.30
Triethanolamine 0.30
Steareth-2 (Procol SA-2, Protameen Chemicals Inc.) 1.00
ANTI-AGING FACE CREAM WITH
B. Octyl Palmitate (Protachem OP, Protameen Chemicals Inc.) 12.00 PUERARIA MIRIFICA AND SUPERFRUIT
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 4.00
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil 2.00 (Bio-Botanica Inc.)
Polysorbate 60 (Protasorb S-20 and S-20-K, Protameen A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Chemicals Inc.) 2.00 Glycerin 4.00
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Lipomulse 165, Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Pueraria Mirifica
Vantage Specialty Ingredients) 2.00 Root Extract (Puresterol, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 3.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00 B. Emulsifying Wax NF 9.00
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc.) 2.00 Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter 5.00
Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer 5.00 Stearic Acid 3.25
Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone (Gransil VX-418, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00 Zea Mays (Corn) Oil 2.50
C. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2.00
schuelke inc.) 1.00 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.30 C. Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract (and) Coffea
100.00 Arabica (Coffee) Fruit Extract (and) Euterpe Oleracea
Procedure: Combine A in main kettle and heat to 60-70°C with mixing until all solids Fruit Extract (and) Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract (and)
are dissolved. Combine B in a side kettle and heat to 70-75°C with mixing until Punica Granatum Extract (and) Garcinia Mangostana
all solids are dissolved. Add B into A while homogenizing and continue to mix Fruit Extract (and) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (and)
until uniform. Start cooling with side sweep. Add C in order at 40°C and continue Propanediol (Superfruit Blend, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 0.50
to cool until RT. D. Water (aqua) 5.00
Potassium Sorbate 0.40
Sodium Benzoate 0.30
LIPSTICK FOR CHAPPED LIPS Procedure: In main beaker, mix A with lightening mixer then heat to 60°C. In a sepa-
(Acme-Hardesty Co.) rate vessel, weigh and heat B to 60°C. Add B to A and mix for 10 min at 60°C.
Separately mix D. Begin cooling main batch under agitation. When batch reaches
40°C, add C to AB, followed by D premix; properties: appearance = heavy beige
This formula with a pleasant matte effect imparts crem; pH = 5.5-6.5.
intense moisturization with gentle spreadability to
prevent cracking and imperfections on the lips.
A. Bisabolol (and) Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (and) Virola Sebifera ANTI-AGING NUTRITIVE CREAM
Nut Oil (and) Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter (and)
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil (and) Macadamia Ternifolia
Seed Oil (AlphaVelvety, Citroleo) qs to 100.00% w/w
Claims: • Rich and ultra-comfortable texture
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 10.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00
• Phospholipid touch: soft, non-tacky, non-greasy skin
Ceteareth-20 0.50 feel • Anti-aging and moisturizing action • Paraben-free
Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol
(Dermofeel PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische
Produkte GmbH) 0.10
B. Glycerin 2.00
Xanthan Gum 0.30
C. Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid
(Biophilic S, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 4.00
D. Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate 1.00
Shorea Stenoptera Butter (Lipex 106, AAK) 4.00
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil (SCB Macadamia Oil,
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 3.00
Propylheptyl Caprylate (Cetiol Sensoft, BASF SE) 2.00
Behenyl Alcohol (Lanette 22, BASF SE) 2.00
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer/Lecithin (Lecigel,
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00
Glycerin (and) Picea Abies Extract (and) Alcohol
(Granlux AOX-GL, Oy Granula Ab Ltd.) 1.00
White Beeswax (proposed) 1.50
E. Dimethicone 1.00
Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Polygonum Aviculare
Extract (Elix-IR, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (Verstatil PC,
Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 1.00
F. Fragrance (parfum) 0.20
100.00

EXPANDED Naturals Formulary
Procedure: Prepare A and heat to 70-75°C. Mix B and add it to A. When temperature purpose moisturizing. Loaded with natural emollients
reaches 65°C, add C to AB and apply medium stirring for 20 min to hydrate phos- and vitamin E, it is a rich yet easy-to-apply moisturizer.
pholipids. Prepare D and heat it to 70-75°C. Add D to ABC and let mix for 5 min Daikon Seed Extract provides a light, silicone-type
to emulsify. Increase speed rate to maximum level for 3 min to homogenize. Cool
slip while mechanically extracted Meadowfoam XPR
under medium stirring. Add E in order and F below 40°C. Adjust pH if necessary;
properties: aspect = off-white, thick cream; viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6
gives fast-absorbing yet luxurious depth. This “dry oil”
rpm, 3 min) = 60,000-70,000 mPa.s; pH = 5.0-6.0; centrifugation (3,000 rpm, formulation effectively leverages these two lightweight
20 min) = stable. oils that absorb quickly without feeling greasy. Oat Lipid
adds hydration.
Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract 60.75% w/w
RESURFACING ‘SEA’RUM Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil 21.25
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil 1.00
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax 8.00
This highly concentrated serum is based on seawater Beeswax 8.00
and exhibits high compatibility with electrolytes. With a Tocopherol 1.00
100.00
2% oil phase, it gives a silicone-like skin feel.
Procedure: Combine all ingredients, mixing and heating to 80°C until uniform.
Sea Water 3.10
B. Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol
(Dermofeel PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische
COLD PROCESS MOISTURIZING
Produkte GmbH) 0.10 CREAM (W/O)
Propanediol (Zemea propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle
(schuelke inc.)
Bio Products) 2.00
C. Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) A. Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
Pullulan (Siligel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.50 Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate (Abil WE 09,
D. Glycerin (and) Picea Abies Extract (and) Alcohol Evonik Industries AG) 5.00% w/w
(Granlux AOX-GL, Oy Granula Ab Ltd.) 1.00 Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral) Oil 5.00
E. Cetyl Ethylhexanoate (Schercemol CO Ester, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Tegosoft CT, Evonik Industries AG) 5.00
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 2.00 Isopropyl Myristate (Tegosoft M, Evonik Industries AG) 5.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.20 Silica 0.50
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (Verstatil PC, B. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 1.10 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.80
F. Maltodextrin (and) Swertia Chirata Extract (Lucas Meyer C. Sodium Chloride 0.80
Cosmetics) 2.00 D. Preservatives qs
Ribose (Riboxyl, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 0.50 Fragrance (parfum) qs
100.00 Colorants qs
Procedure: Premix A. Add B to A. Sprinkle C into AB under high stirring for 5 min Procedure: Combine oils in A. Add silica with adequate agitation and ventilation. Mix
(rotor stator homogenizer). Add D to ABC under medium stirring. Add E to ABCD, A well. To prepare B, dissolve hydroxyethylcellulose in water vortex while agitating.
in the order listed under high stirring for 3 min (rotor stator homogenizer). Add F Allow cellulose to fully hydrate prior to adding C. Mix BC until uniform. Add BC
to ABCDE in order listed while slowly stirring until the product is homogeneous. slowly to A with agitation. Homogenize. Add D in order listed.
BROW-WOW GROOMING STICK REFINING SUGAR BODY POLISHER

(Natural Plant Products) (schuelke inc.)
A. PPG-15 Stearyl Ether (Arlamol PS15E, Croda) 7.20% w/w
For consumers, it’s all about the eyes right now. For a Isostearyl Isostearate (Crodamol ISIS, Croda) 5.00
well-groomed, natural look, this handy clear wax stick Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate (Crodamol PTIS, Croda) 5.00
helps tame and hold unruly brows. The Luxurious Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Luvitol Lite, BASF AG) 5.00
Meadowfoam Seed Oil and Daikon Seed Extract Octadecenedioic Acid 1.00
condition, soften and protect brows and skin. The PEG-8 Beeswax 3.00
popular brow-enhancing castor oil and three natural Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20, Croda) 2.00
waxes round out this useful and timely formula. Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Arlacel 165, Croda) 1.00
Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil 34.00% w/w B. Fragrance (parfum) qs
Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract 10.00 Preservatives qs
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 20.00 C. Sucrose qs to 100.00
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax 16.00 Procedure: Heat A to 75°C. Add C to A and mix well. Remove from heat add B. Pour
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax 15.00 into packaging to set to RT.
Lauryl Laurate 5.00
100.00
Procedure: Combine all ingredients, mixing and heating to 80°C until uniform. Cool
to 45°C and pour into containers.
CLEAN BEAUTY MOISTURIZING STICK

(Natural Plant Products)
This “clean” beauty, fragrance-free moisturizing stick

is an efficient delivery format for targeted and multi-

Advertiser Index | C&T ®
March 2021 |
Volume 136, number 3
Acme Hardesty Co., Inc.

23
sales@acme-hardesty.com
www.acme-hardesty.com
Bio-Botanica, Inc.
C2
info@bio-botanica.com
www.bio-botanica.com
Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co.

15
customer@bloomagebioactive.com
www.bloomagebioactive.com
Campo Research Pte Ltd.

18
sales@campo-research.com
www.campo-research.com
(p. 19)
Colonial Chemical, Inc.

3
www.colonialchem.com
Düllberg Konzentra
21
GmbH & Co. KG
c.duellberg@duellberg-konzentra.de
www.duellberg-konzentra.de
Gattefosse USA
5
ebrun@gattefossecorp.com
www.gattefosse.com KLK Oleo Sophim
35 C3
personalcare@klkoleo.com www.sophim.com
www.klkoleo.com
Grant Industries
1 Vevy Europe SpA
info@grantinc.com 25
www.grantinc.com Lucas Meyer Cosmetics info@vevy.com
11
info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com www.vevy.com
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Ikeda Corp.
31
info@ikeda-america.com
www.ikeda-corp.co.jp schülke, Inc.
C4
info@schuelke.com
www.schuelke.com
CT2103_Advertiser_Index_fcx.indd 64 2/18/21 2:05 PM

H[HB[B$3B6RSKLPB&RVPHWLFV 7RLOHWULHVSGI
&
local sourcing sustainable

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Olive Squalane, a high quality olive-sourced
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Sophim, your reference partner for the manufacture
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sophim.com
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PPG Natural Malachite Extract

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Soft Focus Powders and Pearls Line Parsol ZX

Rosewood Essential Oil Erisium

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MARIE ARZEL, SOLVAY

LEE REUVENI, JOJOBA DESERT LTD.

LISA CARROLL, NATIVE EXTRACTS

KIM KERN, SANDREAM IMPACT

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