Perfumerflavorist202112 DL

Developing Better Products
through Natural Chemistry

Happy Holidays from our Family to Yours
50 Okner Parkway, Livingston, New Jersey 07039-1604

Phone: (973) 740-2300 Fax: (973) 740-1839
E-Mail: sales@pentamfg.com Web: www.pentamfg.com
Penta Manufacturing Company

A Division of Penta International Corporation
PF2112_Penta_Christmas2021.indd 1 10/28/21 8:47 AM

December 2021
www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
Citrus In Demand:
Squeezing out
New Potential
Fresh Squeezed
Flavor Bites: Benzothiazole
Using Terpenes to Make

Flavors with Health Halos
WANT MORE?
Check out our digital magazine exclusives!
www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/DM
PF2112_Cover.indd 1 11/5/21 3:48 PM

REFRESHINGLY
CITRUS
Get inspired by our Sigma-Aldrich® citrus aroma chemicals.
We are expanding our offer of essential oils through partnerships to bring
refreshing and sought-after citrus notes to satisfy your formulation needs.
Learn more by visiting us at:

SigmaAldrich.com/ff-citrus
The life science business of Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany operates as MilliporeSigma in the U.S. and Canada.
© 2021 Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany and/or its affiliates. All Rights Reserved. MilliporeSigma and the vibrant M are trademarks of
Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany or its affiliates. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Detailed information on
trademarks is available via publicly accessible resources. 33657 05/2021
PF Full Page.indd 1 10/27/21 2:40 PM

—
Season’s Greetings
—
During the holiday season, the smell and taste of cookies seem to delight us
Durin
everywhe The aromatic ingredients in home-baked biscuits bring us a feeling
everywhere. eeling
A do our in-house produced renewable ingredients. Because by using
of comfort. As
them, you ca
can contribute to make the world a better place. Follow the Symrise
Aroma Molecules’
Molec king an
matter of infinity and start feeling merry by making
aromatic impact. Enjoy the holiday season!
Your Ar
Aroma Molecules Team · www.symrise.com

CONTENTS VOL. 46 NO. 12 | DECEMBER 2021
28 6 Editor’s Note: F&F Forges Ahead
8 Industry Insights: Freshly Picked Predictions

Industry experts weigh in on citrus market trends,
opportunities and what’s on the horizon.
8 [Podcast] Exploring Emotion AI with O My Note

P&F+ connect with the OMN founder to discuss the app’s
algorithm, emotion AI tech and how it can benefit the
fragrance industry.
10 Product Roundup: Ingredients & Packaging
12 Industry News
40 20 Profiles: Miguel-Angel Escareno and Caroline Sabas
24 Flavor Bites: Benzothiazole

By John Wright
Modest levels of benzothiazole work well to fill out the profile
of a wide range of flavors.
28 Citrus In Demand: Squeezing out New Potential

By Zareena Valappil
ADM technical director Zareena Valappil dives into the
extensive taste profile of citrus and how it can be applied to
the evolving flavor market.
32 Family Affair: One-on-One with Berjé’s Gillian

Bleimann-Boucard
P&F+ connects with Gillian Bleimann-Boucard to discuss
her new role as CEO.
36 Scents of Citrus
By Kira Haslett
A look at the recent launches in citrus-inspired fragrances.
36 40 Using Terpenes to Make Flavors with Health Halos

By Shane McDonald and Lindsey Kirchner
Part 1 of 2: Understanding terpenes and the reported
health benefits.
48 Defining Flavors to Drive Efficiencies Across the

F&B Industry
By Juan Meija and Mathieu Aste
Understanding how to make the flavor selection process
more efficient for both flavor houses and food and beverage
manufacturers.
52 Perfumer Notes: Orris

By Jessica Reichert
48
Robertet’s Jessica Reichert touches on the ingredient’s
versatility and usage.
2 Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF2112_TOC-Masthead_DM.indd 2 11/9/21 9:31 AM

PF Full Page.indd 1 11/2/21 8:45 AM
CONTENTS
EDITORIAL
58 Content Director
Editor in Chief
Managing Editor
Associate Editor
Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Katie Anderson | 1-630-344-6077/kanderson@allured.com
Jenna Rimensnyder | 1-630-344-6053/jrimensnyder@allured.com
Kira Haslett | 1-630-344-6080/khaslett@allured.com
News Editor Tony Scianna | 1-630-344-6070/ tscianna@allured.com
SOCIAL MEDIA
Social Media Specialist Angelina Lewis | 1-630-344-6052/alewis@allured.com
ADVERTISING SALES
Sales Director Tony Dellamaria | 1-630-344-6020/tdellamaria@allured.com
Associate Publisher Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Advertising Production Manager Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito
Customer Service 1-847-559-7554/customerservice@perfumerflavorist.com
52 DESIGN
Design Manager
Senior Graphic Designer
Production Manager
Kim Fry
Hon Bannapradist
Bryan Crowe
CORPORATE
Partner & CEO George Fox
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Director of Events Maria Prior
Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero
54 New Horizons: F&F Ventures into the

OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
Flavorcon
Chinese Market Allured Business Media World Perfumery Congress
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
F&F houses are expanding into the Chinese market 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition
with partnerships, innovation centers and more. 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite D
Global Cosmetic Industry magazine
Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA
Beauty Accelerate
58
www.Allured.com
What’s Coming to World Perfumery Skin Inc. magazine
Face & Body spa expo and conferences
Congress 2022 Beauty Launchpad
By Jenna Rimensnyder Beauty Go Pro Show
MedEsthetics
The return of WPC brings insight from fragrance
Wellspa360
experts, networking opportunities and much more. Wellspa360 Expo
Nailpro
60 Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials Nailpro show
By Judith Michalski
This month’s column features discussions on fir
needle oil, violet leaf absolute, sage oil and more. SUBSCRIPTIONS
Perfumer & Flavorist+ (ISSN 0272-2666) is published monthly by Allured Business Media.
64 F&F Resources Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/subscribe

For both the US and internationally, telephone: 1-847-559-7554
64 Ad Index (9 AM-5 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816

E-mail: customerservice@perfumerflavorist.com
Address: Perfumer & Flavorist+, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009
Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices.
Print subscriptions are free to qualified individuals in the United States.
Want to report a new development at your company? Print subscriptions are not available to those living internationally.
Send the details to: POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Perfumer & Flavorist+, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009
Perfumer & Flavorist+ magazine Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite D Missing issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of issue.
Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA
Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain
fax: 1-630-653-2192 • e-mail: perfumer@allured.com technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy
of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all
liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documentation referred to within
or affiliated with this publication.
@perfumerflavorist Perfumer & Flavorist
Copyright 2021: Authorization to photocopy articles and news is granted by Allured Business Media, provided that the
fee of US$6 per copy per item is paid directly to the Copyright Clearance Center Transactional Reporting Service,
@PandFMagazine @perfumer_flavorist 21 Congress St., Salem, MA 01970—Publication No. 0272-2666/01/$6.
4 Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF2112_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 4 11/9/21 9:07 AM

Editor’s Note
F&F Forges Ahead
JENNA RIMENSNYDER
Managing Editor
jrimensnyder@allured.com
The December issue digs into trends, challenges and opportunities in F&F as the industry forges ahead into a
post-COVID landscape. Editorial Advisory Board
W
hile the F&F continues to navigate uncharted waters as we CARLOS BENAÏM
sail into a post-COVID environment, the industry is finding Master Perfumer, Vice President
new and exciting ways to innovate and answer the call of International Flavors and Fragrances
consumer demands. By having a finger on the pulse and a vast
pool of talented experts on-call, 2022 is scheduled to bear fruit for F&F. JOHN CAVALLO, PH.D.
In this month’s issue, P&F+ taps industry experts to give us the juice on Senior Vice President of Technology
the citrus market. Keeping things fresh, ADM technical director Zareena & Commercial Development,
Valappil discusses the extensive taste profile of citrus and how it can be Citromax
applied to the evolving flavor market on page 28.
DARRYL DO
The December issue is also home to part one of a two-part series, “Using
Perfumer, Delbia Do Fragrances
Terpenes to Make Flavors with Health Halos,” by Kalsec’s Shane McDonald
and Lindsey Kirchner (Page 40). The duo dive into understanding terpenes PATRICK DUNPHY, PH.D.
and their the reported health benefits. Independent Vanilla and
In other news, the January issue will be Judith Michalski’s final Flavor Consultant
“Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials” column as moderator.
Michalski won’t be going far as she will continue to be a participant on the MATTHIAS GUENTERT, PH.D.
panel. Bell Flavors & Fragrances’ Cynthia Lipka will be taking over as mod- Independent Flavor and Food
erator, and plans on adding a few fresh faces. Be on the lookout for a podcast Consultant
interview with Michalski discussing her time as moderator and a few pieces
of advice for junior flavorists. JUDITH MICHALSKI
Senior Flavorist
abelei Flavors
Flavorcon Virtual 2021 Recap
And that’s a wrap! If you missed the live show, don’t worry, each session LAURE MOUTET MANHEIMER
will be available on-demand for 60 days. Visit flavorcon-virtual.com to catch Consultant
all of the presentations from industry experts on trends, challenges and even
a one-on-one with columnist John Wright. While you’re at it, be sure to mark ASHA PHEKOO
your calendar for Flavorcon 2022 live and in-person in Cincinnati, Ohio President/Founder, Natural
scheduled for November 9-10. More details to come. Ingredients Resources LLC
World Perfumery Congress 2022 JOHN WRIGHT

Independent Flavorist and Author
Registration is now open for the World Perfumery Congress, scheduled for
June 29-July 1, in Miami Beach. Don’t miss your chance to reconnect with
fragrance experts from around the globe for the three-day educational and
networking forum. Visit worldperfumerycongress.com. More details about the
upcoming event on page 57.
6 Editor’s Note Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF2112_EdNote_fcx.indd 6 11/5/21 3:50 PM

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS:
FRESHLY PICKED
PREDICTIONS
Industry experts weigh in on citrus market trends, opportunities and what's on
the horizon.
Featured Insiders:
• Agrumaria Reggina Srl
• Treatt
What's next for the citrus market? These experts give us the juice.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2021 Allured Business Media.
8 Industry Insights Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF2112_Industry Insights_fcx.indd 8 11/5/21 3:51 PM

T
he demand for citrus continues
to climb, as does the opportunity
Into the Mix
for innovation and exploration for
untapped potential. PAUL STOTT, senior category manager, Citrus, Treatt
Brands have taken advantage of
the citrus surge by launching citrus- P&F+: What opportunities are currently shaping
inspired fragrances, which you can the citrus market? What is driving them?
get a whiff of on page 2. But the Paul Stott [PS]: We are
fruity fun doesn't stop there. seeing a couple of really
These two experts check in to discuss the latest clear developments shaping
trends in citrus, opportunities and what's on the the citrus market at the
horizon for the market. moment; transparency of
supply chain and prov-
enance—the latter covering
Worth the Squeeze not only the country or
region of origin of raw
FELICE CHIRICO, head of sales and marketing, citrus materials but what
Agrumaria Reggina Srl claims can be made on the Paul Stott
label and the story behind
Perfumer & Flavorist+ [P&F+]: What opportuni- the ingredients.
ties are currently shaping the citrus market? What Similarly, there is also clarity around what’s
is driving them? driving this—consumers. Now more than ever, con-
sumers are increasingly interested in their health and
Felice Chirico [FC]: Today citrus fruits represent wellbeing, how what they are consuming is made
both the nostalgia for an authentic taste and the and potentially, the impact on the environment of the
desire for innovation. Consumers are looking for beverages they consume.
the tastes of their childhood, primarily orange and Its also a really interesting time for the novel and
lemon. This trend was driven by the closure of the nostalgia trends in beverage. Consumers are seeking
global crisis that diluted relationships and con- that mix of exotic and nostalgic flavors which
sumption became an opportunity to live (or re-live) provide comfort and give them something new to try.
authentic experiences. Citrus is perfectly positioned to meet these increas-
On the other hand, citrus fruits are still capable ingly diverse needs.
to surprise by offering new tastes to the market and
new mixes. A clear example is the growing interest P&F+: What is the future direction for this
in fruits such as yuzu and pomelo (the latter is a market space? Where is there untapped potential?
patriarch of citrus fruits, but its popularity has been
growing very recently). PS: I’m excited about the future for citrus. The
reduction of agricultural residues is definitely
P&F+: What is the future direction for this changing the shape of the citrus market. Clean label
market space? Where is there untapped potential? requirements and the increase in appetite for trans-
parency of a healthy supply chain continues to drive
FC: It is necessary to guarantee a true-to-fruit countries to ban the use of sprays on farmlands and
consumption experience. All players in the supply crops. However, this could impact crop life cycles
chain must do their part: from citrus groves to from picking to production. Which can in turn drive
the shelf. A fundamental direction is simplicity: to up costs in certain areas, potentially increasing the
deliver—in any product shapes—the true profile of preimmunization of citrus in the market.
citrus fruits. For this reason, in Agrumaria Reggina In such a fast moving beverage market, more edu-
we have developed the new portfolio Citrus Sparka, cation of citrus is needed for long term planning. It
which includes a range of natural flavors FTNF takes years from planting to get commercially viable
coming 100% from fruit. They can be applied for a volumes of fruit from a citrus tree. New demands
wide range of food and beverage applications. The versus traditional capabilities within citrus will need
gentle extraction ensures that the authentic profile of to drive more innovative technologies and processes
the citrus fruit is maintained. to ensure commercially viable citrus solutions which
can be delivered at scale.
aCitrus Spark is a trademark of Agrumaria Reggina Srl.
PF2112_Industry Insights_fcx.indd 9 11/5/21 3:51 PM

Product Roundup [Raw Materials, Equipment & Services]
Ingredients & Packaging
trans-2-Decenol natural (US), ≥97%, FG

MilliporeSigma
www.sigmaaldrich.com/US/en/product/sial/w430415” 6-Methyl heptanal
Experience our listing of trans-2-decenol natural (U.S.), ≥97%, FG (FEMA# 4304, Bedoukian Research
CAS# 18409-18-2). This ingredient’s green, citrus, herbaceous profile with waxy, www.bedoukian.com/sample-request-form/
fatty notes lends itself to a wide variety of applications. This product is certified 6-Methyl heptanal (FEMA# 4498, CAS# 63885-09-6) is excellent for adding fresh,
food grade, kosher and U.S. natural. Contact us at ff@milliporesigma.com for a juicy grapefruit notes to a variety of applications, especially flavored beverages
free sample. and confectionery products. Blends very well with nootkatone. Can also be used to
enhance fresh squeezed juice-like notes in any type of citrus flavor including, but
not limited to, orange, tangerine, grapefruit, pomelo and yuzu.
Natural ethyl butyrate ex orange FTNF

Citronitrile Natural Advantage
Symrise AG www.natadv.com
www.symrise.com/scent-and-care/aroma-molecules/ingredient-
Natural Advantage introduces natural ethyl butyrate ex orange FTNF (FEMA#
finder/#Citronitrile
2427, CAS# 105-54-4). This material is extracted from oranges. The sweet,
Partly biodegradable citronitrile (CAS# 93893-89-1) by Symrise offers more than fresh squeezed taste of ethyl butyrate makes it a desirable natural product to use
citrus, it also provides citrus, rosy, waxy, cinnamon and coriander notes. Citronitrile in juice blends, specifically orange juice. With this ingredient, you can be sure
prolongs the value of citrus top notes to a new extent. It remains extremely stable to keep your products natural and your labels clean. Label claim: FTNF Orange.
in difficult media and provides an outstanding substantivity on fabric. Therefore, Recommended use level: 0.001 ppm to 1 ppm. EU and U.S. natural, kosher,
citronitrile offers an enormous flexibility in applications and creations. non-GMO.
10 Product Roundup Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF2112_Roundup_fcx.indd 10 11/5/21 3:52 PM

Red ginger extract Isobionics natural b-bisabolene 90
Indesso Aroma Isobionics
www.indesso.com/business/catalogue?search=Red%20Ginger%20 www.isobionics.com
&materials=&categories=&sub_categories=&format= Isobionics natural beta-bisabolene 90 (FEMA# 4940, CAS# 495-61-4) is a clear,
Long known for its medicinal usage in Indonesia, red ginger (FEMA# 2522, colorless to pale yellow made by fermentation and therefore providing a constant
2521, 2520, CAS# 8007-08-7, 84696-15-1; Zingiber officinale var. Rubrum) high quality and availability.
contains an abundance of active constituents, such as gingerols, zingerone and
zingiberene. Through advanced extraction technology, our extracts come in three
forms: oil, liquid and powder, making them suitable for various natural flavoring,
nutraceutical and pharmaceutical needs.
1 and 1.5 Gallon aluminum bottles

Elemental Container Inc.
Vanillyl butyl ether www.aluminumbottles.com/industrial/
Berjé Inc.
Our 1 and 1.5 gallon aluminum bottles are a great alternative to steel drums.
www.berjeinc.com/products/aromatic-chemicals/vanillyl-butyl-ether/
Among being light-weight, seamless and UN approved with tamper evident
Vanillyl butyl ether (FEMA# 3796, CAS# 82654-98-6) carries a unique blend of closures, they also allow for product protection against UV, moisture and
spicy, fruity and vanilla notes. It is a highly versatile flavor component that blends oxygen. Please feel free to contact us at pf.inquiry@elementalcontainer.com
well with ingredients such as cinnamon, black pepper and ginger. for a free sample.
11
PF2112_Roundup_fcx.indd 11 11/5/21 3:52 PM

Industry
Givaudan Launches Olfactive Social Listening Tool DigiPulse
G
ivaudan has launched DigiPulse, an olfactive
social listening tool designed to collect and
decode consumers’ online spontaneous
comments about fine fragrances.
Powered by artificial intelligence (AI), DigiPulse
collects the voices of consumers using a special
algorithm that captures and analyzes their views
with a focus on olfactory-driven perceptions.
Givaudan perfumers and creative teams then use
the decoded olfactive data to tailor their fragrance
creations to consumers’ desires.
DigiPulse categorizes more than 2.5 million
online comments across a range of social networks.
Its customization allows Givaudan experts to
analyze the data gathered to easily identify consum-
ers’ olfactive perspectives and preferences. The data DigiPulse collects consumer insight using an algorithm that captures and analyzes their
is transferred to teams to analyze the responses to views with a focus on olfactory-driven perceptions.
traditional and established fine fragrances, as well
as new launches. The most differentiating element forthcoming months, followed by a global roll-out
of the tool is its ability to focus on the olfactive in 2022.
data, revealing insights on different aspects of the Arnaud Guggenbuhl, head of global marketing
fragrance itself, on top of more obvious comments insight and image, said, “DigiPulse is a digitally
around packaging, marketing and advertising. strategic way of capturing feedback from consumer’s
The intel will allow Givaudan to integrate con- online posts on their impressions of fragrances
sumers’ immediate responses related to a fragrance they’ve used or experimented with in their every-
or to specific ingredients directly into the creation day lives. The new olfactive tool, which uses AI,
process, which is crucial for brand development will allow us to gather instant unfiltered consumer
and scent innovation. feedback. Most importantly, it will enrich the way
DigiPulse is currently being used in France we craft perfumes that will continue to inspire
and will be launched in the United States in the consumers around the world.”
Givaudan Acquires DDW, The Color House
G
ivaudan has reached an
agreement to acquire DDW,
The Color House, a U.S.-
based natural color company.
The acquisition comes as part of
the group’s 2025 strategy to expand
the portfolio of its global Taste &
Wellbeing business and enhancing
its ability to create “feel good” food
experiences through its portfolio of
taste and sense solutions.
Headquartered in Louisville,
Kentucky, United States, DDW is
a privately held company in the
natural color industry. Founded in The acquisition comes as part of the group’s 2025 strategy to expand the portfolio of its global Taste &
1865, the company has developed Wellbeing business.
12 Industry Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF2112_IndustryNews_fcx.indd 12 11/5/21 3:53 PM

Industry
a strong market position from its origins in the 2025 strategy. The combination of both companies
brewing industry through its capabilities in will enable us to become a global leader in natural
caramel colors, and for the last 20 years, having colors and strengthen our ability to create with
a strong focus on natural colors for the food and our customers multi-sensorial food experiences
beverage industry. consumers love. We look forward to welcoming the
The terms of the deal have not been disclosed DDW employees to the Givaudan family.”
and Givaudan plans to debt fund the transac- DDW’s chairman, Ted Nixon, said, “I am very
tion. DDW’s business would have represented proud of all that DDW has accomplished through-
approximately $140 million of incremental sales out its more than 150 years as a privately held
to Givaudan’s results in 2020 on a proforma basis. company and we are confident that we will con-
The transaction is expected to close in Q4 2021. tinue to flourish as part of Givaudan. We believe
Louie D’Amico, president of Taste & Wellbeing at that we have a strong set of shared purpose and
Givaudan, said, “I am excited about the opportunity values with Givaudan and that this transaction
to bring together the strong heritage and capa- represents a very positive step for DDW’s customers
bilities of DDW in natural colors with Givaudan’s and associates.”
expanded portfolio, which is fully in line with our
Capiton Acquires Majority Stake in Axxence Group
T
he management team of the
Axxence Group acquires in
a MBO along with Capiton,
the natural aroma chemicals
manufacturer from its founder, Joost
van Neck.
Axxence Group, headquartered in
Emmerich, Germany, is a manufac-
turer and supplier of natural aroma
chemicals (NACs) for the global flavor
& fragrance (F&F) industry.
Joost van Neck founded Axxence
in 1986. He started the business with
a pure trading entity and, through
the years, developed it into a full
scope manufacturer of natural aroma
chemicals. Today, Axxence produces
a wide range of natural ingredients
for flavor and fragrance compounds
which are used in the food & beverage
Axxence Group is a manufacturer and supplier of natural aroma chemicals for the global F&F industry.
as well as in the cosmetic & personal
care industries.
As part of Joost van Neck’s succession planning, from the future collaboration with Capiton and
Axxence’s long-standing and highly experienced its partners.”
management team, along with Capiton, has acquired Roumyana Schnettler, partner at Capiton added,
the group with the conviction to continue the growth “We are glad to have won the confidence of Axxence
story its founder has started 35 years ago. founder, Joost van Neck and his experienced man-
Joost van Neck, founder of Axxence commented, agement team. Capiton seeks to continue the legacy
“Axxence and its management look forward to the of the founder through investments in new technol-
new opportunities and synergies which will arise ogy, expansion in capacity as well as buy and build.”
13

Industry
Court Dismisses NGO Lawsuit Against FDA and GRAS Final Rule
O
n September 30, 2021, the U.S. Food and
Drug Administration prevailed in the
federal lawsuit brought by the Center
for Food Safety and the Environmental
Defense Fund (NGOs) challenging FDA’s final rule
titled Substances Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS
Rule), 81 Fed. Reg. 54960.
The U.S. District Court for the Southern District
of New York granted the FDA’s motion for summary
judgment and rejected all causes of action asserted
by the NGOs.
Specifically, the NGOs argued that the GRAS
Rule unlawfully subdelegates the FDA’s authority
to the food industry, exceeds the FDA’s statutory
authority and constitutes arbitrary and capricious
rulemaking under the Administrative Procedure Act
(APA), and is otherwise in conflict with the Food, The U.S. District Court granted the FDA’s motion for summary judgment and rejected all causes
Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDCA). Devon Wm. Hill and of action asserted by the NGOs.
Eric Gotting of Keller and Heckman filed an amicus
curiae brief in support of the GRAS Rule on behalf of You can find more details to the federal lawsuit
the Safe Food Ingredients Coalition (SFIC). at nationallawreview.com.
Dior Appoints Francis Kurkdjian as Perfume Creation Director
P
arfums Christian Dior’s future Dior fragrances that will
perfume creation director, conquer the world.”
Francois Demachy, Kurkdjian said, “It is a tremen-
is stepping down for dous honor for me to join Parfums
retirement and will be succeeded Christian Dior, a maison with a
by Francis Kurkdjian. richly inspiring history and a reso-
Kurkdjian assumes the post lutely future-facing creative spirit.
from his own perfumery, Maison I am delighted to share my vision
Francis Kurkdjian, which he co- through my fragrance creations.
founded in 2009 alongside Marc Working at Maison Dior while
Chaya. Kurkdjian will remain continuing to create for my own
artistic director of his fragrance maison is a great privilege. I want
business while he steers Parfums to sincerely thank Bernaud Arnault
Christian Dior. Francis Kurkdjian succeeds Francois Demachy, for renewing his confidence in me
Demachy was recently high- who is stepping down for retirement. as part of LVMH, and I extend my
lighted in Nose, a feature-length warm thanks to Claude Martinez,
documentary from filmmakers Arthur de Kersauson Stephanie Medioni, Laurent Kleitman and Marc
and Clément Beauvais. A native of Grasse, France, Chaya for their support.”
Demachy is credited for revisiting J’Adore and Miss Kleitman added, “Francois Demachy will remain
Dior with much success, while also introducing one of the most prominent talents among all those
Sauvage in 2015. who have helped celebrate the unique Dior spirit
Parfums Christian Dior president and chief exec- and perpetuate the Dior dream. His scents are
utive officer, Laurent Kleitman, praised Kurkdjian treasures that will remain timeless. It has been an
as a visionary perfumer and passionate artist “who extraordinary adventure and a great honor to work
brings his full creative energies, savoir-faire and with him both in Paris and in Grasse.”
exacting professionalism to Dior Perfumes, crafting

Industry
Eurofragance Debuts First Captive: L’Âme du Bois
E
urofragance has announced
its first captive, L’Âme du Bois.
Fitting into the woody notes
olfactive family, L’Âme du Bois
is designed to provide a high-impact
composition that harmonizes with other
ingredients in the fragrance formula and
highlights their individual characteristics.
L’Âme du Bois is made from wood
waste that has been naturally upcycled
into a raw material. The ingredient has a
genderless olfactive profile.
The natural wood extract is sustain-
L’Âme du Bois is made from wood waste that has been naturally upcycled into a raw material.
able, made by upcycling discarded
sawdust from a particular tree.
The team removed, via natural purification the building blocks for future fragrance creations.
methods, the superfluous, parasitic molecules from We feel that in the near term, L’Âme du Bois should
the wood compound, but kept those of perfumistic be reserved for the design of prestige fragrances
interest. This time-consuming purification step was and for all premium product categories, be it fine
repeated over and over, over several months. In the fragrance, home or personal care.”
end, they were able to uncover an ingredient with Henry van den Heuvel, global creative director
the best olfactory profile, while retaining the soul and senior perfumer at Eurofragance, said, “L’Âme
of the wood. du Bois is avant-garde in terms of its conception but,
In French, soul (or essence) translates into above all, for what it brings to fragrance creation.
“âme.” Hence, Eurofragance named their captive It redefines woody notes in a manner befitting our
L’Âme du Bois, the soul of wood. time. L’Âme du Bois is inclusive and all-embracing
Felipe San Juan Tejada, R&D scientist at of other accords and olfactive notes. For perfumers,
Eurofragance, said, “We honored nature by creating L’Âme du Bois is a true breakthrough.”
a new olfactive expression for wood that provides
15

Industry
IFF Chairman and CEO Andreas Fibig to Retire
I
FF has announced that Andreas Fibig, We wish him all the best and appreci-
IFF’s chairman and chief executive ate his ongoing leadership to ensure a
officer, will retire after a 10-year smooth transition as we search for his
tenure and more than seven years as successor.”
IFF’s chairman and CEO. Andreas Fibig, chairman and CEO,
The Board of Directors is evaluat- said, “Leading this 132-year-old iconic
ing candidates to succeed Fibig, and he company through a true transforma-
looks forward to continuing in his role tion this past decade has been an
until a successor is named, expected by honor. With the company delivering
early 2022, after which he will stay for strong sales growth and the integration
a period of time to support a seamless of Nutrition & Biosciences well under-
transition. At the time of his retirement, At the time of his retirement, Fibig will also way, I feel now is the right time to let
Fibig will also step down from IFF’s step down from IFF’s Board of Directors. the next chapter of IFF’s legacy begin.
Board of Directors. We have created an unrivaled platform
Ed Breen, lead independent director of IFF, said, that is a true innovation partner to our customers
“Over the past several years, Andreas has success- and instilled a real purpose within our company to
fully led IFF through some of the most significant become a global leader in sustainability. Of all we
milestones in the company’s history. IFF has have accomplished at IFF, what I am most proud
benefited from his experience and commitment to of is that IFF has returned to its rightful place as
transformation that redefines the possibilities for the clear leader in our field, extending its illustri-
our industry. Our future is bright as IFF is well- ous legacy and poised to define the evolution of our
positioned to drive long-term value creation for industry for years to come. IFF has never been in a
all stakeholders. The board and I are grateful for better position, and I look forward to watching its
everything Andreas has helped IFF accomplish. next chapter unfold.”
EFFA Announces President and Appoints New Board Members
T
he European Flavour Association
(EFFA) general assembly has
appointed Marc van der Duijs as the
new EFFA president for the 2021-
2023 term.
Van der Duijs is vice president, regional
manager Flavours Europe at IFF and has
been in the industry for over three decades.
The assembly also appointed three
new board members, Karel Stoschek of
Firmenich, elected as EFFA vice president,
Arjan Stam of Givaudan and Walter Ribeiro
of Symrise. Jean Mane, representing the
French Flavour Association SNIAA, was
also elected as EFFA treasurer.
Van der Duijs will take over the role from From left to right: EFFA president, Marc van der Duijs (IFF); Alexander Mohr, Ph.D. (EFFA executive director);
Antoine Kastler of Robertet, who held the EFFA past president, Antoine Kastler (Robertet).
EFFA presidency for four years.
Upon handing over his role, Kastler thanked for their trust, dynamism and enthusiasm; that is
his predecessor, Jean Robello of Firmenich, and what makes the future bright.”
the whole team, “I would like to thank the EFFA Kastler continued, “I look forward to continu-
membership, the EFFA staff and the EFFA board ing to serve the EFFA Board as past president and

Industry
as the board liaison of the EFFA communications Alexander Mohr, EFFA executive director, said,
committee. We have a big event coming up in “Only change is constant. The whole world has
November, the European Virtual FlavourDay, where experienced this in the past few months. As EFFA,
we will give the attendees a taste of what the flavor we had to adapt and reshape our working proce-
industry does best: to share the passion for food.” dures. Now, we open a new chapter and welcome
Van der Duijs commented, “I am very excited three new board members. I would like to thank Mr.
to take on this role and look forward to working Dirk Bennwitz from Symrise who is now retiring
with the past president, Mr. Antoine Kastler, for for his service to the association, and our outgoing
continuity, and with the vice president, Mr. Karel president, Antoine, for the excellent collaboration
Stoschek, looking together towards the future of we had over these past four years. I look forward to
the association. The passion for flavors unites us working closely with Marc and our new board.”
all, and I look forward to serving the industry in
this position.”
Inter Parfums Completes Acquisition of Salvatore

Ferragamo Fragrance License
I
nter Parfums, Inc. has
announced that its agreement
with Salvatore Ferragamo
S.p.A., the parent company of
the Salvatore Ferragamo Group,
has been finalized, under which
Inter Parfums, Inc. has been named
exclusive worldwide licensee for
the production and distribution of
Ferragamo brand perfumes.
The 10-year license, plus the
five-year optional term, is subject
to certain conditions. As per the
transaction agreement signed in
July of this year, Inter Parfums is
operating the Ferragamo fragrance
business through a wholly-owned
Italian company, based in Florence,
with management and coordination As per the agreement signed in July, Inter Parfums is operating the Ferragamo fragrance business through a
of activities related to the license wholly-owned Italian company.
agreement, along with production,
conducted in Italy. expertise we bring to product development, pack-
Jean Madar, chairman and chief executive aging, advertising and marketing will elevate the
officer of Inter Parfums, Inc., said, “Firstly, we Ferragamo fragrance profile along with its sales,
are delighted to welcome the many Salvatore especially in the brand’s largest markets, notably
Ferragamo employees who are joining our orga- China and North America.”
nization bringing with them decades of brand Madar concluded, “Ferragamo will rank among
experience and know-how. From the start, we made the five largest brands in our portfolio. With its
a commitment to the Salvatore Ferragamo Group inclusion, along with the growth of our existing
to devote the attention and resources necessary business, we are getting closer to our near-term
to grow the Ferragamo fragrance business within net sales goal of $1 billion. Moreover, with our
a selective luxury distribution framework that newly established foothold in Italy, encompassing
we have established within our global distribu- all phases of product development, production, as
tion network. Deriving from our work studying well as sales and marketing, we have reinforced our
the brand’s potential, we are confident that the long-term commitment to Italy.”
17

Industry
Mane Celebrates 150th Anniversary
Throughout its history, the company has been continually managed by the Mane family.
I
n honor of Mane’s 150th anniversary, the draft shield allows operators to adopt a more com-
company took a look back and how the company fortable position and ensure accurate results.
came to be.
In 1871, Victor Mane lived near Grasse Sustainability
in the south of France and, inspired by the sur- In 2003, Mane was the first company in the F&F
rounding nature, began a small distillery that has industry to sign the United Nations Global Compact,
since become a specialist in flavor and fragrance a voluntary initiative offering companies a frame-
materials. work for doing business more responsibly. In 2011,
Throughout its history, the company has been introduced a sustainability tool to assess the environ-
continually managed by the Mane family. Victor’s mental impact of its ingredients. Green Motion uses
sons, Eugène and Gabriel, modernized the business principles of green chemistry to rate each ingredient
and began its international growth. on a scale of 0 to 100, designed to offer a basis for
Jean Mane, president, Mane, shared, “I am chemists to develop more eco-friendly formulations.
delighted to celebrate our 150th anniversary as a In recognition of its CSR actions, Mane received the
fully independent company, keeping the promise platinum ranking from EcoVadis in 2020.
made many years ago to all our team members.”
Looking Forward
Innovation In 2020, the company inaugurated an innovation
After inventing Jungle Essence, a technique for center in South Africa and new production sites are
capturing fragile scents and tastes, Mane created soon set to open in India and China. Due to open
E-Pure Jungle Essence. Using an eco-friendly extrac- in 2023, its new R&D center in La Sarrée, France,
tion process, this innovation is designed to modernize will be a central hub for innovation, featuring pilot
the tradition of enfleurage to render the true profile lines, test platforms and an extraction laboratory. It
of fresh flowers. will also house Mane, a platform for start-ups and
Mane’s smart-Flow is an extraction tool designed co-working.
to protect operators during the weighing of formu- Mane continues, “To paraphrase Goethe, we have
las. The innovative design means that 99% of VOCs continually shaped a better future by building on
are captured at the source, while the absence of a the foundations of the past.”

pf2112_natadv_zest.indd 1 11/3/21 2:18 PM
PROFILES: MIGUEL-ANGEL ESCARENO
and CAROLINE SABAS
This month’s featured creators discuss their favorite ingredients to formulate with, recent
project wins and more.
Miguel-Angel Escareno, senior

flavorist, Foodarom
Perfumer & Flavorist+ [P&F+]: What led you to the
flavor industry?
Miguel-Angel Escareno [MAE]: To be honest
with you, it was a wonderful coincidence. I was
finishing my bachelor’s degree when I applied for an
open internship opportunity in Takasago Mexico,
back in 2004. As most of you know, back in that
time, the flavor and fragrance industry was not
popular, almost like a secret industry. I was fasci-
nated with the industry, totally in love. I applied,
and luckily, I got accepted and started my intern-
ship at Takasago. Eight months later, Takasago
Mexico hired me as a flavor library technician with Name: Miguel-Angel Escareno
the privilege to attend sensory training. Coming
Title: Senior Flavorist
from a biochemical background, seeing the big
world of flavors changed my career perspectives. Location: San Diego, California
The dream started to become a reality. Hometown: Mexico City, Mexico
P&F+: Are there any recent projects/wins you’re
particularly proud of?
MAE: Oh boy, that is an interesting one. I firmly P&F+: Describe yourself in three ingredients.
believe that every single project that a flavorist works MAE: Stupendous topic, indeed! Firstly, I will
on has a piece of their heart. I design each flavor pick vanilla extract, for sure. I was born and raised
with all the attention, care and love needed to be in Mexico, where the vanilla beans/flowers and early
a successful ingredient for our client. In a utopic extraction processes were discovered by the Spanish
world, all the flavors would be a sale, but in the real conquers around the 15th century. Then, they shared
world, that’s not the case. In this industry, you have it with the entire world. Vanilla extract has such a
to try and try and try again, learn, keep learning and unique, rich and complex profile developed by the
try again. I remember a bizarre project that was a Maillard reaction. Without a doubt, it’s the main
successful flavor and final product. It started as a flavor/food additive. Nowadays, we are still facing a
super weird one, the client wanted a cost-effective shortage due to climate change. It is when the flavor
flavor, no target, creation and for the next day. I industry jumps into the game, mimicking such a
created the simplest one with four ingredients, super unique spice.
cheap, but tasty enough. The flavor was a huge Secondly, I will pick orange cold-pressed oil.
success for the client and for us, as well, even though Why? It is so basic, but at the same time, so
for me, the goal was to reach the price restriction. complex and used in a wide variety of profiles, not
Quite an experience. only citrus flavors.
PF2112_PF Profiles_ifcx.indd 20 11/5/21 3:53 PM

Last but not least, I will select DMS. I love that
molecule, at low rates. It helps a lot in a wide variety
of profiles. Quite basic, but powerful.
P&F+: Do you have any advice for people

coming into the flavor field?
MAE: Be patient. I remember a very vivid per-
sonal lesson that the former president of the British
Society of Flavourists, Brian Grainger, gave to me:
the reward is going to come in small, minuscules
drops, but you will enjoy it. Don’t get used to it and
push yourself to keep learning; even if your flavors
were not gladly accepted, that is an opportunity to
you to grow. For sure feed that passion every time,
try to discover new things, reinvent yourself and,
when the time comes, teach the knowledge that you
acquired with humbleness.
P&F+: What is the best part of your job? Name: Caroline Sabas
MAE: Certainly, one of the best parts is recogni-
Title: Senior Perfumer
tion. It is like when you see one product on the
market. I feel equivalent if that was like our little Location: New York, New York
baby monster created with teamwork and resilience. Hometown: Grasse, France
Also, seeing the happiness of the customer when
we as a team achieve the goal. Talking with my
colleagues and sharing some good times and experi-
ences is also quite pleasurable. At the beginning of
my career, I saw flavorists like rock stars; now I see it's amazing to think that I was constantly sur-
my colleagues like rock stars but with huge brains rounded by jasmine, rose and honeysuckle, to
connected to the heart. Never forget the payday and name a few. I miss those chilly days when we
if it is Friday, all the better! went picking branches of mimosa in the forest of
Tanneron, filling the house with them—the absolute
best, most intoxicating, gorgeous, fluffy scent. It
Caroline Sabas, senior perfumer, was pure happiness.
Givaudan I fell in love with fragrance as a teenager, when I
first stepped into a perfumer's lab—I knew imme-
P&F+: What led you to the fragrance industry? diately that I wanted to be a perfumer. It was like
Caroline Sabas [CS]: I was raised in Grasse, the being a chef or a painter, taking all of these differ-
capital of perfumery. The heady aromas wafting ent, beautiful materials and coming up with your
from the fields were a daily part of my childhood; own recipe, your own creation.
21

Profiles
P&F+: What applications do you primarily the process was unusual in its approach and a lot
formulate for? Do you have a favorite? of fun.
CS: I mostly work on fine fragrances. However,
as the market evolves, it's become more common P&F+: Where do you find inspiration?
to develop fragrances across all categories. After CS: I'm an emotional and passionate person,
developing a perfume that is meant to be sprayed which helps me to create multiple fragrances at a
on someone's neck, we then often translate it into time, wherever I am. Music, food, nature, colors,
different bases, such as body lotions, shower gels, the wind, the rain, the beach—they all inspire me
body scrubs, candles but fine fragrance remains deeply and bring me happiness.
my favorite.
P&F+: Describe yourself in three ingredients.
P&F+: Are there any recent projects/wins you’re CS: Amber. Coconut. Mimosa.
particularly proud of?
CS: This is a tricky question for me, I'm always P&F+: Do you have any favorite ingredients to
so honored the moment I realize a client has work with? Why?
selected my fragrance at the end of a project. It's CS: Vetiver has been one of my favorite ingre-
hard to favor one fragrance over another. With that dients since I first smelled it. A few years ago, I
said, if I have to choose among some of my recent rediscovered it all over again when I visited Haiti,
creations, I am very proud to have crafted Oud where it grows. It has, and always will, hold a very
Musc by Narciso Rodriguez and You or Someone special place in my heart.
Like You by Etat Libre d'Orange. Ambrettolide is my favorite musk. I use it
Oud Musc is the result of what I dreamt about everywhere. My perception of it is musky, clean,
creating as a young perfumer. A sensual and mys- animalic, leathery, orris-like. It is very sensual,
terious fragrance built with resins, amber, oud and almost like a clean sweat or clean sexiness.
musk. Plus, I find the bottle absolutely divine. Salicylate smells like sandy skin on a sunny beach.
You or Someone Like You is a novel written by And, of course, amber. When I became a per-
Chandler Burr. Chandler and I worked together to fumer, I had a strong emotional connection to
create a fragrance that the heroine, Anne, would amber, and it was all I wanted to create with.
wear. He wanted to capture the overall effect, Something mysterious, resinous, sensual, dark,
something conceptual, rather than focusing on the with a touch of masculinity.
ingredients or raw materials. It felt odd at first, but

Levels of 10 ppm of benzothiazole enhances more obviously “furry” thiazole to give an impression of fruit skin.
Flavor Bites: Benzothiazole

Modest levels of benzothiazole work well to fill out the profile
of a wide range of flavors.
S
ome of you may be familiar with the phrase “Jack of all
trades but master of none.” The phrase is not normally meant
as a compliment and it is a backhanded way of dismissing
BY JOHN WRIGHT
someone. Benzothiazole (FEMA# 3256, CAS# 95-16-9) is
johnwrightflavorist@gmail.com
found very widely in nature and would seem to be in imminent
danger of being seen as “Jack of all trades and master of none.” This, I
think, misses the point.
Benzothiazole has a boiled sulfuric odor. The boiled note implies,
correctly, that it should be ideally suited to the leading role in condensed
milk flavors. Benzothiazole-based condensed milk flavors work quite
well, but this chemical would not really be my first choice for such an
important function.
Modest levels of benzothiazole work well to fill out the profile of a wide
range of flavors. It is particularly effective when prominent or aggressive
notes need to be smoothed out a little.
Note that the dose rates given throughout this article are the levels
suggested for use in flavors intended to be dosed at 0.05% in ready-to-drink
beverages or in a simple bouillon.
24 Flavors Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF2112_Wright_fcx.indd 24 11/5/21 3:54 PM

Dairy Flavors
Butter: A boiled note might seem out of place in
a fresh butter flavor, but it has a pleasant smoothing
effect at 10 ppm. Higher levels are better in butter
flavors with any level of cooked profile.
Cheese: Similar levels, in the region of 10 ppm,
work in a similar way in cheddar and Parmesan
cheese flavors.
Condensed milk: Condensed milk flavors are
another matter. Levels of 1,000 ppm work very well.
It is tempting to go higher, but this level gives the
most natural effect.
Cream: A good range of addition in fresh cream
and milk flavors is five ppm to 10 ppm. At this level,
it does not infer a cooked profile.
Yogurt: Benzothiazole is distinctly optional in
fresh yogurt flavors, but a touch, around two ppm, Benzothiazole is distinctly optional in fresh yogurt flavors, but a touch, around two ppm,
cuts back on harsher notes.
cuts back on harsher notes.
Brown Flavors Molasses and sugar, brown: Molasses and brown

Butterscotch and caramel: Butterscotch and sugar flavors only need a modest addition of this raw
caramel flavors both need a modest, but not asser- material. A good starting point is 50 ppm.
tive, cooked note and benzothiazole, at around 50
ppm, fills that role admirably. Savory Flavors
Chocolate and cocoa: Similar comments apply Asparagus: Benzothiazole helps to blend in
to both cocoa and chocolate flavors, but 10 ppm is the rather heady notes of methyl mercaptan and
more than adequate in both cases. dimethyl sulfide in cooked asparagus flavors.
Coffee: Higher levels, in the region of 100 ppm, Bacon: This ingredient works in combination
are needed in coffee flavors to harmonize the more with more obviously meaty notes in bacon, ham and
aggressive sulfur notes. pork flavors. A good starting point is 10 ppm.
Malt: The optimum level of benzothiazole in malt Bell pepper: Bell pepper and related flavors, such
and malted milk flavors is 100 ppm, softening the as jalapeno, gain attractive authenticity from a five
impact of methional. ppm hint of benzothiazole.
25

Flavor Bites
Chicken: Similar comments can be applied to

chicken flavors, but the best level of addition is
lower, nearer 20 ppm.
Mushroom: It might be expected that benzothia-
zole would feature more heavily in cooked than in raw
mushroom flavors. In practice, this is not the case,
and 10 ppm works equally well in both categories.
Rice: Cooked rice flavors can often be over-
dependent on a limited number of powerful
ingredients and benzothiazole, at around 10 ppm,
adds complexity.
Roast beef: On the face of it, adding a boiled note
might not seem helpful in a flavor profile that aims
to be roast rather than stewed. A moderate level of
benzothiazole, around 50 ppm, does not introduce
an obvious boiled note but it does soften the top
notes nicely. Levels of 10 ppm of benzothiazole works equally well in both cooked and raw
Seafood: Benzothiazole, at levels ranging from 10 mushroom flavors.
ppm to 50 ppm, adds significantly to authenticity in
all seafood flavors. Cherry: Cherry flavors are somewhat different
Smoke: Phenolic notes can sometimes seem a from most other fruit flavors in that helpful levels of
little harsh in smoke flavors and 30 ppm of benzo- benzothiazole can reach as high as 20 ppm.
thiazole softens the effect noticeably. Lychee: Lychee flavors are delicate and often to
Toasted corn: All corn flavors, but especially highly rose oriented. Benzothiaole, at 10 ppm, adds
toasted corn flavors, are rounded out by a small addi- complexity and softens the profile.
tion, around 10 ppm, of benzothiazole. Pineapple: Sulfur notes in pineapple flavors
Tomato: Oddly, tomato flavors have a point in normally equate to canned or processed effects.
common with mushroom flavors and they benefit Benzothiazole is an exception, and 10 ppm simply
from the same 10 ppm level of this ingredient, irre- rounds the profile out and does not diminish freshness.
spective of their cooked or fresh profile. Pomegranate: Pomegranate flavors are highly
fashionable, but the profile of many flavors on the
Fruit Flavors market is quite a way away from authenticity. The
Apricot, nectarine and peach: Levels of 10 ppm ideal level of addition of benzothiazole varies, but
of benzothiazole enhances more obviously “furry” 10 ppm is a good starting point.
thiazole to give an impression of fruit skin.
Berry: All berry flavors, from blackberry to straw- Other Flavors
berry, are given a hint of extra authenticity by very Hazelnut and praline: Benzothiazole plays an
modest additions of benzothiazole, normally in the important part in hazelnut and praline flavors. Levels
region of five ppm. of addition in the region of 50 ppm soften the harsher
roasted notes.
Pandan: Over a career in flavors, most flavorists
will not be inundated with requests for pandan flavors
but, despite their strictly regional interest, they repre-
sent an interesting challenge and can easily be far too
simplistic. Levels of 10 ppm of benzothiazole can be
very useful to overcome the challenge.
Peanut: This ingredient plays a similar role in
peanut flavors to the one it plays in hazelnut flavors,
but the ideal level of addition is higher, around
100 ppm.
Tea: Tea flavors are not easy to get right. The
base is fairly straightforward, but the detail can be a
challenge. Benzothiazole adds notable to realism in
black tea flavors at 20 ppm, with five ppm being more
Benzothiazole adds notable to realism in black tea flavors at 20 ppm, with five
ppm being more appropriate for green tea flavors. appropriate for green tea flavors.
26 Flavors Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

Citrus In Demand:
SQUEEZING OUT
NEW POTENTIAL
ADM technical director Zareena Valappil dives into the extensive taste profile
of citrus and how it can be applied to the evolving flavor market.
BY ZAREENA VALAPPIL, technical director, Global Citrus, and principal flavorist, ADM
Heightened focus on health and immunity over the past year have secured a place for citrus.
28 Flavor Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF2112_ADM_fcx.indd 28 11/5/21 3:55 PM

C
older months usher in
citrus growing season,
and consumers continue
to thirst for citrus fruits,
ingredients, colors and
flavors. Orange retains
the top spot among global
citrus flavors, followed
closely by lemon-lime. Simple, classic flavors like
tangerine, mandarin and grapefruit also persist in
popularity. From beverages to sauces and baked
goods to prepared meals, citrus provides a pop of
delight to consumers around the world.
Citrus’ Health Halo

Heightened focus on health and immunity over
the past year have secured a place for citrus in con-
sumers’ carts and minds. Consumers associate citrus
with vitamin C and immune support, which are
closely tied to pandemic-related concerns. Research
shows that 65% of global consumers are more con-
scious of immunity due to COVID-19.1 Plus, 87% of
U.S. consumers are focusing on their immunity, and
78% of those consumers are interested in vitamin C.
Bright and juicy citrus fruits are also perceived
as refreshing, awakening and invigorating. These
flavors can spark a mood boost or a burst of energy Beverages such as sparkling waters, hard seltzers, ready-to-drink (RTD) canned cocktails, and energy
and hydration drinks are well suited to citrus combinations.
for people seeking to balance physical, mental and
emotional wellness. Globally, 48% of consumers
are more conscious of their mental well-being due Regional and exotic fruits from around the
to COVID-19. Not only can food be a source of globe are attracting attention, and at the same
comfort during stressful times, but it also provides time, enduring favorites are being twisted into
nourishment to our bodies when we’re feeling fresh offerings to help meet growing demand for
drained. Additionally, vibrant, citrusy colors like elevated taste profiles. Shoppers are sampling Cara
orange, yellow and green are signs of happiness and Cara orange, calamansi, kumquat and yuzu, as well
holistic wellness. as varietals such as bitter orange, pink grapefruit
Close-to-nature fruit ingredients are important and Dancy tangerine. Once considered exotic,
in potential positioning of better-for-you foods and blood orange has become a common option in
beverages with clean labels, plant-based ingredients, many products. Consumers are now seeking more
sustainable sourcing and for connecting to ethnic or rare citrus fruits, such as finger limes, Buddha’s
religious traditions. We also see consumers choos- hand and kaffir limes that can transport them to
ing citrus flavors for permissible and purposeful faraway places through food, when actual travel is
indulgences like alcoholic beverages, confectionery restricted or discouraged. Southeast Asian cooking
and baked treats. often features the fruit and leaves of these citron
fruits. Unlike the humble lime to which Westerners
Twists on Traditional Citrus are accustomed, these unique varietals convey
With consumer palates becoming more sophis- more fragrant and spicier notes.
ticated, people are more comfortable with diverse With health ever top-of-mind, consumers aim
or adventurous ingredients and flavors. Restaurant to support digestive function, and these products
chefs create innovative flavor offerings, retail and often feature fermented and sour flavors. Black
foodservice are quick to follow, and that gives con- limes and preserved lemons, as well as kimchi and
sumers increasingly unique options at home. kombucha, are gaining popularity as consumers
29
PF2112_ADM_fcx.indd 29 11/5/21 3:55 PM

Citrus In Demand: Squeezing out New Potential
pursue more potent and nuanced flavors. A condiment made by fermenting yuzu peel, chili
growing number of brands are launching food and peppers and salt, which develops a spicy, citrusy
drink products enriched with fermented ingre- and umami profile.
dients.2 Of the 52% of global consumers aware • Flamed orange was influenced by a Patagonian
of fermented foods as ingredients, 27% associate open-flame barbecue cooking style. Whole
fermented foods with digestive health.3 As con- oranges are tossed into a bonfire, caramelizing
sumer awareness of the many benefits of a healthy the internal juices and sugars, until the fruit is
gut expands, people are increasingly associating completely charred.
microbiome-supporting foods and beverages with
potential benefits linked to microbiome function, Flavorful Origin Stories
including immune function, aspects of metabolic Consumers are keen to know the origin of their
health and mental well-being. foods. According to Euromonitor, 26% of global
Brands are encouraged to explore emerging consumers are looking closely for the country
flavor profiles that keep new products zesty. A few of origin on food and drink labels.4 Brands that
favorites include: emphasize product narratives on their websites,
• Black limes, also called loomi or dried limes, are packaging and in marketing campaigns can develop
often used in Persian and other Middle Eastern deeper connections for repeat purchases and
cuisines. The lime is boiled in a saltwater brine consumer loyalty. In fact, 73% of global consum-
and then dried in the sun until it darkens; color ers agree that they feel more positively about
varies from pale tan to dark brown and black. companies that are transparent about where and
That achieves a brittle texture, allowing the limes how products were made, raised or grown.5 For
to be easily ground into powder that imparts a instance, highlighting the source of flavors, such as
tart and earthy flavor. lemons from Sicily, Argentina and California, limes
• Preserved lemons, inspired by Italian and from Tahiti and oranges from Valencia, Spain, can
Moroccan dishes, are cured in salt to deliver entice consumers who prefer regional offerings.
a more intense flavor. Preserved lemons have With transparency and traceability, brands can
migrated throughout Middle Eastern regions and help consumers discover the provenance and origin
India, and now American chefs are experimenting behind their purchases. Additionally, consumer-
with their unique flavor. facing stories can demonstrate how ingredients are
• Yuzu is a tart citrus fruit found throughout closer to nature and cultivated by growers.
Asia. Yuzu kosho is a traditional Japanese
Fresh and Fruity Formats
Citrus flavors are delightful and
abundant in foods and beverages. A
few categories present juicy prospects
for the year ahead.
Beverages such as sparkling waters,
hard seltzers, ready-to-drink (RTD)
canned cocktails, and energy and
hydration drinks are well suited to
citrus combinations. Pairings like
orange, mango and pineapple are
refreshing, distinctive and flavorful
enough to mask functional ingredients
that could otherwise add off notes
to formulations. Seemingly oppos-
ing flavors can create unexpected
and exciting sensory experiences.
For example, herbs like thyme, basil,
rosemary and mint combine excep-
tionally well with lemon. Botanical
infusions are increasingly included
in new product launches, such as
bitter orange and elderflower or yuzu
Limes from Tahiti and oranges from Valencia, Spain, can entice consumers who prefer regional offerings. with hibiscus.
PF2112_ADM_fcx.indd 30 11/5/21 3:55 PM

Moreover, sparkling waters and hard
seltzers are thirst-quenching drinks for
easy sipping that continue to resonate
with consumers. RTD seltzers appeal to
a wide range of shoppers and address
the need for exploration with inter-
esting combinations like cranberry
clementine and ginger lime. Hard,
low and no-alcohol seltzers frequently
blend multiple flavors together, such
as orange, lime and grapefruit, for an
extra kick. Citrus punch is common at
holiday gatherings and parties, with
people connecting these fruity flavors
with feelings of joy and fun. Emerging
in the alcohol segment are hard seltzer
teas, which allow beverage makers to
keep one foot in current trends and take
a step toward future fads. Lemon and
lemonade flavors are most prominent
in hard seltzer teas because they are Cookies, cakes, frostings, ice cream, crème brûlée, caramels, glazes and more are excellent platforms for fruity
familiar profiles that are often paired taste profiles.
with brewed tea.
Sparkling waters, RTD teas and coffees also Cuban mojo sauce gets a fresh take when paired
check the box for the halo of holistic wellness as with grapefruit, orange and lime juices. Of course,
low-sugar alternatives to carbonated soft drinks. citrus is often used to elevate protein-packed dishes,
Plus, beverages are a preferred and convenient such as flamed orange or Sicilian lemon marinades
format for people to consume ingredients with func- for chicken and fish. Citrus flavors also brighten up
tional benefits, such as probiotics, protein, caffeine, meal kits and frozen meals that include higher end,
vitamins and fiber. Teas are also desirable for their global ingredients, as well as flavorful condiments
close-to-nature, plant-based and simple, clean-label and sauces.
ingredients. Coupling these enhanced offerings For all these reasons and more, citrus remains
with health-signaling citrus will help bottles pop on strongly in demand for culinary and beverage
store shelves. Kombuchas and lemonade coffees can creations. Product developers can leverage a variety
appeal to consumers seeking energy-boosting and of consumer-preferred claims associated with citrus
wellness-forward beverages. fruits, from consumer perceived health and wellness
Besides the beverage category, baked snacks benefits to global sourcing that entices shoppers to
and sweets are often bursting with citrus flavors. travel through their tastebuds. Whether in estab-
Cookies, cakes, frostings, ice cream, crème brûlée, lished favorites or emerging formats, citrus brings
caramels, glazes and more are excellent platforms zest and appeal to the food and beverage industry.
for fruity taste profiles. Nutritional bars, frozen
yogurts and sweet-and-salty snacks can success-
References
fully marry tart citrus with comforting flavors like
vanilla. For consumers seeking intriguing flavors, 1. FMCG Gurus, How Has COVID-19 Changed Consumer
global desserts play particularly well with exotic Behavior, March 2021
citrus fruits. Both sweet and savory, dried limes 2. Mintel, Patent Insights: Fermented Ingredients in Food &
give a fabulous twist to a gulab jamun recipe or Drink, June 2021
black lime halva. Preserved lemon serves well in
3. FMCG Gurus; Digestive Health Survey Series (% change
alfajores or paired with raspberry in a pie. Yuzu between 2018 & 2020)
kosho lends a bit of heat to meringues, pavlova and
macarons. And flamed orange pulp and juices can 4. Euromonitor International Health + Nutrition Survey, fielded
February 2020 as reported in “Local vs Global: How Ingredient
impart a distinct smoky sweetness to syrups and
Trends Reflect Cultural Shifts”
rum cake batter.
The versatility of citrus also brings zest to many 5. Nielsen What’s In Our Food and On Our Mind
sauces, dressings and marinades. Yuzu kosho deliv-

ers tangy heat to salad dressings, and the classic
31
PF2112_ADM_fcx.indd 31 11/5/21 3:55 PM

Family Affair:
One-on-One with Berjé’s
Gillian Bleimann-Boucard
P&F+ connects with Gillian Bleimann-Boucard to discuss her new role as CEO.
Gillian Bleimann-Boucard joined Berjé in 2007 and

previously held the position of executive vice president.
PF2112_Berje_fcx.indd 32 11/5/21 3:55 PM

B
erjé Inc. has announced the promotion the company were spent in a rotational training
of Gillian Bleimann-Boucard to CEO, program, working in each of our departments to
replacing her father, Kim Bleimann, in fully learn and understand our day to day operations.
this position. Following this, I began a multi-year training under
Kim Bleimann will continue as Dave Herbst, one of my first mentors in the industry.
chairman of the board of directors of Berjé, Inc., and We fondly call him the "Encyclopedia of Essential
will be taking a greater role in the continued expan- Oils" as his knowledge, understanding, and respect
sion and growing operations of Berjé Europe, which for essential oils is unmatched in the industry.
includes the distillation facility, Berjé Trakia. For many years I worked under him and closely
Bleimann-Boucard joined Berjé in 2007 and previ- with Rich Hofmann in our quality lab, directly
ously held the position of executive vice president. engaging and learning every aspect of understanding
Perfumer & Flavorist+ connects with Bleimann- the intricacies of production and evaluation of our
Boucard to discuss her new position, details on the range of over 3,000 products that we stock. From
transition and more. here I gradually earned more responsibilities and
leadership within the company, utilizing and build-
Perfumer & Flavorist+ [P&F+]: How have the ing on Berjé's priority of respect and knowledge base
last 15 years at Berjé helped prepare you for this of our products. I expanded into sales and purchas-
new endeavor? Any experiences, in particular, ing, eventually leading our global sourcing team
you’d like to share? and managing key client accounts and serving as
Gillian Bleimann-Boucard [GBB]: I am incred- President of The Whole Herb Company.
ibly thankful to have had these years of preparation.
As we know and appreciate, our industry is remark- P&F+: What will this transition look like? Do
ably unique and specialized, so hands-on training you have any projects in the works that will now be
was critical! The majority of my first years at introduced/implemented that you can share?
33

Family Affair: One-on-One with Berjé’s Gillian
Bleimann-Boucard
GBB: Thank you for the opportunity for us to

share! Yes, this transition has been carefully in
process for many years now and as part of our
forward planning, Dad and I will continue to work in
close collaboration. He is now serving as chair of the
Berjé Board of Directors and also will be strategically
involved in the continued growth and activities of
Berjé Europe and our distillation site at Berjé Trakia
where we distill rose and lavender oils, an exciting
project for all us.
Continuing forward, the foundation of trust
and integrity continue to be the guiding principles
for me and Berjé. These are the roots of our Berjé
family culture and all of our operations. Following
the early days when my grandfather and uncle
first set up shop in Soho, Manhattan, my dad has
steered Berjé through over 40 additional years of
experience and industry commitment, instilling
in the company our shared values and work ethic.
I am thrilled to continue to transition forward,
bringing renewed energy and creative focus, and
with the strength, readiness, and support of our
Berjé Leadership Team and entire company. Their
readiness, along with mine, is a true reflection of
the pivotal time we are in as a company.
P&F+: Any short-term or long-term goals that

you have for yourself, or for Berjé, that you can
share with us? What does the horizon look like for
Berjé in F&F?
GBB: Where to begin! We are actively engaged in
a number of exciting growth projects as a company,
and my first priorities are on the expansion and
focus of our At Source presence and on our quality
area. As an industry leader, our commitment to the
support of our producers and the continued focus
and expertise in upholding quality standards and
product knowledge is paramount. We continue to
progress both technically and through the education
of our internal teams, constantly raising the bar in
these areas. Additionally, as a leader, and all of us at
Berjé are dedicated to being stewards for further sus-
tainability in our direct operations as well across our
supply chains. Our solar panel installation was just
one step forward and we are engaged in additional
projects going forward, constantly pushing forward.
This starts at home and is integrated daily into my
goals as living our values of passion for our industry,
respect for the diversity of our products and people,
leading by legacy, and serving with accountability in
every action we take. As a global company, we also
have continued international growth on our horizon,
steadily and carefully taking us into our next 75
years as a family company!

A look at the recent launches in citrus-inspired fragrances.
BY KIRA HASLETT, associate editor, Perfumer & Flavorist+
The citrus market is expected to continue its growth, at a CAGR of 4.2%.
36 Fragrance Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF2112_Citrus_fcx.indd 36 11/5/21 3:58 PM

n 2019, the global citrus extract marketa
was valued at $5.6 billion. During the
forecast period of 2020 to 2027, the
market is expected to continue its growth,
at a CAGR of 4.2%. While citrus is
generally lumped in with wellness as well
as food and drink products, fruit flavoring
isn’t the only thing that consumers are
interested in.
As recent launches have shown, the fragrance
industry is experiencing an abundance of citrus-
infused scents taking over the shelves. Here are some
of the most recent citrus-inspired fragrance launches
ranging from air care to fine fragrance.
Citrus as Adventure
Quarantining and travel restrictions bred wan-
derlust for consumers. How can one travel without
leaving even their home? Fragrances, of course. A
reoccurring theme in these scents is, you guessed Ron Dorff’s first fragrance, Discipline Sport Pour Homme, features a citrus blend of
it, citrus. bergamot, lemon zest, cardamom and cucumber notes.
David Beckham and Coty launched a fragrance
line, the David Beckham Collection, which included
Aromatic Greens, Infinite Aqua and Refined Woods. Citrus in Fine Fragrance
All three of which are home citrus infusions. The Ron Dorff will be debuting its first North
fragrances were inspired by the acclaimed soccer American store and first fragrances, in collaboration
player's own travels. with Scent Beauty and Firmenich perfumer, Lliad
Feeding into wanderlust, Pura and Caswell-Massey Ermenidis. The fragrance, Discipline Sport Pour
collaborated with IFF and Yellowstone Forever to Homme, features a citrus blend of bergamot, lemon
create a smart diffuser set that captures the unique zest, cardamom and cucumber notes.
scents of Yellowstone National Park. Lake, inspired Another citrus-laced juice is weaved into Estée
by Lake Yellowstone, is a citrus floral blend. Lauder recent fragrance line, including eau de
Homesick revealed the Tropical Escapes collec- parfums, travel sprays and hand creams. The scents
tion, offering candles that evoke the scents of far-off varied greatly, with Tender Light and Paradise
places. The Great Barrier Reef candle features citrus Moon offering citrusy blends with added floral and
and seaweed accords. leather notes.
Aesop added to its fine fragrance line with a trio
awww.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/citrus-extract-market
of eau de parfums, Erémia, Karst and Miraceti.
Pura's Smart Home Diffuser features two Caswell Massey fragrances inspired by Yellowstone National Park.
37

Scents of Citrus
Erémia consisted of fruity, floral notes, opening with

citrus accords.
Citrus Air Care

Speaking of quarantining, those working from
home, or opting for takeout rather than dine-in,
have been spoiled with the latest citrus launches in
air care.
One of which is a two fragrance partnership
between Pura and Homesick: Let’s Toast and New
Home. The set is available in both diffuser scents
and candles, offering bold lime and orange notes.
With CBD-infused products also rising in popu-
larity, Candle-lite Company launched Essential
Elements CBD candles and wax melts. Bed, I Love
You, Binge Watch & Chill, Weekend Ready and Slay
All Day. The line varies citrus accords, from lemon to Pura has partnered with Homesick on two fragrances, Let’s Toast and New Home.
orange to mandarin.
Harry & David, a gourmet food gifting brand, Citrus has proved to be a scent that is in high
released a candle collection featuring five food- demand year-round, utilized by consumers as a
inspired scents. The line ranged from fruity to floral, source of freshness, comfort and escapism. It seems
with Cozy Vanilla Spice and Orange Blossom captur- to be there are limitless possibilities in the fruitful
ing bright citrus scents. citrus market.

Using Terpenes to Make Flavors
with Health Halos
Part 1 of 2: Understanding terpenes and the reported health benefits.
BY SHANE T. MCDONALD, Ph.D., principal flavor chemist, Kalsec

and LINDSEY KIRCHNER, scientist II, Hops, Kalsec
Terpenes and their derivatives are found in spices, herbs, fruits, vegetables, hops, cannabis and other sources.
PF2112_Kalsec_fcx.indd 40 11/9/21 9:10 AM

Once almost exclusively used for beer manufacture, hops can now be found in other foods and beverages, such as hop waters or ice cream.
Executive Summary
Consumers are increasingly aware of terpenes ABOUT THIS 2-PART SERIES
and terpenoids due to their purported health
effects, mood-modifying qualities and contribution Part 1: Using Terpenes to Make Flavors with
to flavor. Terpenes and their derivatives are found Health Halos: Part 1 (December 2021 issue)
in spices, herbs, fruits, vegetables, hops, cannabis
and other sources. Flavor contributions include Part 2: Using Terpenes to Make Flavors with
fruity, herbal, cooling, flavor and others. A number Health Halos: Part 2 (January 2022 issue)
of health benefits have been reported in literature,
such as anti-inflammation, neuroprotection, anti-
Subscribe to access the full series at
cancer, anti-microbial and antioxidant. Decreased www.perfumerflavorist.com
anxiety, anti-depressant, mood improvement,
increased cognitive ability and increased content-
ment have been ascribed to terpenes.
Selection of terpenes to be used should consider Introduction
regulatory issues, stability, chirality, perceived With the rise in consumer awareness of terpenes
health benefits, availability and flavor/aroma. You and the perceived benefits associated with each,
may want to choose one or two terpenes to be flavors are being created to cater to this consumer
highlighted due to flavor, mood or health benefits. demand. This article describes the structure and
Alternatively, a number of terpenes with the desired flavors of terpenes, their purported health ben-
effects can be blended together. Essential oils and efits and mood-modifying properties, and how to
other extracts may be used to supply some or all use them in the creation of flavors with desirable
of the terpenes. With this in mind, you can create “health halos.” Please note that the authors are
flavors with health halos. flavor chemists and not health professionals. We
41
PF2112_Kalsec_fcx.indd 41 11/5/21 4:00 PM

Using Terpenes to Make Flavors with Health Halos
cannot verify the health properties. Make claims

only after consulting with your regulatory and
legal staff.
What are Terpenes?

Terpenes are a class of naturally occur-
ring, unsaturated hydrocarbon compounds.
Monoterpenes comprise two isoprene units, which
are five carbon branched chains (F-1).
As seen from the monoterpene limonene, you
can discern the two five-carbon branched subunits.
A compound with three isoprene units is called a
sesquiterpene, such as caryophyllene. There are
terpene compounds with 20 carbons or more, but
these tend to be nonvolatile and not important to
our discussion on flavors. Terpenes can have one or
more rings, aromatic rings or no rings at all.
F-2 Examples of terpenoids

Various strains of cannabis are known for their particular terpene composition.
F-1 Example of a monoterpene: limonene

T-1. Flavors, terpenes and terpenoids1
Name FEMA # Aroma Type Flavors Use
a-Phellandrene 2856 Spice, pepper Terpene Black pepper
a-Pinene 2902 Medicinal, Pine Terpene Citrus
b-Caryophyllene 2252 Herbal, carrot Sesquiterpene Vegetable, mango
b-Ocimene 3539 Herbal, mango Terpene Mango
b-Pinene 2903 Medicinal, pine Terpene Citrus
b-Sinensal 3141 Citrus, orange Sesquiterpene Orange
Carvacrol 2245 Herbal, thyme Terpene alcohol Oregano, mandarin
Carveol 2247 Minty, spearmint, dill Terpene alcohol Spearmint
Citral 2303 Citrus, lemon Terpene aldehyde Lemon, citrus
Citronellal 2307 Herbal, citronella Terpene aldehyde Lemon, citrus
Citronellol 2309 Floral, rose Terpene alcohol Rose, berry
Citronellyl acetate 2311 Floral, rose, pear Terpenyl ester Pear, fruit
Cuminaldehyde 2341 Spice, cumin Terpene aldehyde Seasonings
Damascenone 3420 Fruity, damson Terpene ketone Raspberry, tomato
d-Carvone 2249 Herbal, dill Terpene ketone Bread, pickles
d-Limonene 2633 Citrus Terpene Citrus
Eucalyptol 2465 Medicinal, eucalyptus Sesquiterpene ether Medicinal, mint
Farnesol 2478 Floral, lily Sesquiterpene alcohol Peach, blueberry
Fenchol 2480 Earthy Terpene alcohol Berry
g-Terpinene 3559 Citrus Mandarin Terpene Citrus, mandarin
Geosmin 4682 Earthy Sesquiterpene alcohol Beets, berries
Geraniol 2507 Floral, rose Terpene alcohol Berry, citrus
Geranyl acetate 2509 Floral, rose-fruity Terpene ester Lemon
Grapefruit mercaptan 3700 Sulfury, catty Terpene mercaptan Grapefruit
Isoborneol 2158 Earth, pine Sesquiterpene alcohol Lime, blueberry, blackcurrant
l-Carvone 2240 Minty, spearmint Terpene ketone Spearmint
Linalool 2635 Floral, lavender Terpene alcohol Peach
Linalyl acetate 2636 Floral, bergamot Terpene ester Blueberry, raspberry, teas
Menthol 2665 Cooling, peppermint Terpene alcohol Cooling and mint
Myrcene 2762 Herbal, mango Terpene Mango, orange
para-Cymene 2356 Medicinal, petroleum Terpene Citrus, thyme
Thymol 3066 Herbal, thyme Terpene alcohol Herbal, mandarin
Similar compounds can contain functional a flavor chemical supplier. Terpenes can also be
groups typically containing oxygen or sulfur (F-2). formed naturally via fermentation. One option is to
These are termed terpenoids and tend to be much source your terpenes and terpenoids from botanical
more potent flavor compounds than terpenes and extracts. Below is a list of terpenes (T-2) found in
can be more stable and soluble, as well. In addition, some common culinary spices and herbs.
functional groups like alcohols and acids can form
esters, like linalyl acetate (7). The result is a vast
number of compounds, many with desirable flavor Reported Health Benefits of Terpenes
properties that can be used for flavor creation (T-1). Terpenes have entered the consumer conscious
Terpenes can be sourced from a variety of for several reasons. Botanical extracts, which are
extracts, e.g., cannabis, hops, citrus, spices, herbs, rich in terpenes, may be more favorable to some
etc., or purchased as a purified compound from consumers than “natural flavors,” where the source
43

is not revealed. Secondly, many consumers want reported health benefits are listed from various ter-
to take charge of their own health by supplement- penes found in the air as one walks through a pine
ing their diet with botanicals imparting perceived forest, an act referred as “forest bathing.”3 Koyama
health benefits, often from terpenes. In T-3, the and Heinbockel reviewed studies pertaining to the
impact of essential oils and terpenes on health.4 In
T-4, details the impact of terpenes and terpenoids.
T-2. Spices and herbs, notable terpenes and One major contribution to this phenomenon
terpenoids2 is the rise of Cannabis sativa (commonly referred
to as cannabis or marijuana). While still widely
Herb/Spice Major Terpenoid illegal in the United States, an increasing number
of states and Canada have legalized cannabis use in
Allspice (pimento) b-Caryophyllene
the treatment of specified medical ailments. Despite
Basil Linalool still being illegal at the federal level, consumers
Bay laurel Eucalyptol are exploring perceived health benefits of both
Black pepper d-3-Carene, b-caryophyllene psychoactive and non-psychoactive components,
Caraway d-Carvone and derivatives including terpenoids. In fact, looking for “terpenes”
and “health” in an internet browser, the results are
Cardamom a-Terpinyl acetate, eucalyptol, linalool
overwhelmingly about cannabis. There are also
Coriander d-Linalool emotional benefits that are reported to be associ-
Cumin Cuminaldehyde ated with terpenes. Various strains of cannabis are
Dill d-Carvone known for their particular terpene composition.
The closest relative to Cannabis sativa is Humulus
Fennel Fenchone
lupulus, better known as hops. Once almost exclu-
Ginger Neral, geranial sively used for beer manufacture, hops can now
Mace a-Pinene, sabinene, 1-terpiene-4-ol be found in other foods and beverages, such as
Marjoram Sabinene hydrate, terpinene-4-ol hop waters or ice cream. A review by Nuutinen
detailed the many medicinal properties of the oils
Nutmeg Sabinene, a-Pinene
of Cannabis sativa and Humulus lupulus, along
Oregano Carvacrol, thymol with references for their reported medical effect
Peppermint Menthol, menthone (T-5).5 Because both species are bred and cultivated
Rosemary Verbenone, eucalyptol, camphor, linalool for their aroma, the actual terpene composition can
Sage, Dalmatian Eucalyptol, camphor, thujone vary widely between cultivars.
In the second part of this article, we will talk
Savory Carvacrol
about terpenes and mood alteration, selection of
Spearmint l-Carvone and derivatives terpenes and ideas on how to assemble your flavor.
Thyme Thymol, carvacrol
T-3. Terpenes and reported Health Benefits
Terpene Associated Benefit

Borneol Anti-inflammation, Antioxidation, Neuroprotection
Bornyl-Acetate Anti-inflammation
Caryophyllene Anti-inflammation, Anti-cancer, Antioxidation, Neuroprotection
Cymene Anti-inflammation, Anti-cancer, Neuroprotection
Eucalyptol Antioxidation, Neuroprotection
Limonene Anti-inflammation, Antioxidation, Anti-cancer
Linalool Anti-inflammation
Myrcene Anti-inflammation, Anti-cancer
Perillyl Alcohol Anti-cancer
Pinene Anti-inflammation, Anti-cancer, Antioxidation, Neuroprotection
Terpinene Anti-inflammation

T-4. Reported health impact of pure chemical constituents of essential oils
Compound Application and Results

- Borneol Anti-cancer
+ Borneol Anti-bacterial
1,4-Cineole Anxiolytic-like effect
a-Pinene Skin wound recovery, anxiolytic-like effect, anti-microbial
b-Caryophyllene Skin wound recovery, stimulates cell proliferation, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, anti-carcinogenic, anxiolytic-like
effect, allelopathic
b-cis-Farnescene Allelopathic
b-Pinene Anti-microbial
Camphor Anti-bacterial
Carvacrol Anti-bacterial
Citral Enhanced gut microflora, anxiolytic-like effect, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, anti-bacterial,
anesthetic
Citronellal Anti-bacterial
Eucalyptol Improved cognitive function, skin recovery
Eugenol Anti-bacterial
Geraniol Analgesic, anti-depressant, anti-tumor, anti-microbial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory
Humulene Suppresses liver cancer
L-Carveol Anxiolytic-like effect, anti-microbial, pro- and anti-apoptotic
L-Carvone Anti-bacterial
Limonene Gut health, anti-depressant, pain relief, anti-diabetic, anti-ulcerogenic
Linalool Anxiolytic effect, gut health, anesthetic
Menthol Anti-microbial, radioprotective, antioxidant, analgesic
Myrcene Anxiolytic, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-bacterial
Ocimene Wound-healing, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, relieves edema, hyperemia, laceration, hemorrhage, anti-microbial
Para-cymene Analgesic, anti-inflammatory, pain-relief
Perillyl alcohol Antioxidant
Terpineol Anti-bacterial
Thymol Anti-fungal, anti-parasitic, anti-septic, anti-bacterial
References
1. Wright, J. 2018. Flavor Creation, 3rd Ed. Chapter 3. Flavor 4. Koyama, S., and Heinbockel. T. 2020. The effects of essential
chemicals. oils and terpenes in relation to their routes of intake and
application. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. (21).
2. Lindsay, R. Flavors. 2017. Flavors. Chapter 11 in Fenneman’s pp. 1558-1594.
Food Chemistry, 5 th ed. Damoradan, S., Parkin, K., and
Fennema, O., editors. CRC Press. 5. Nuutien, T. 2018. Medicinal properties of terpenes found in
Cannabis sativa and Humulus lupulus. European Journal of
3. Cho, K., Lim, Y-r, Lee, K., Lee, J., Lee, J., and Lee, I-s. 2017. Medical Chemistry. Vol 157. Pp. 198-228.5
Terpenes from forests and human health. Toxicol. Res. Vol.
3(2), pp. 97-106.
45

T-5. Terpenes and Biological Properties
Terpene Biological Propoerties Found in Hops

a-Bisabolol Anti-cancer, anti-tumor, kidney protection, anxiolytic, antibiotic
a-Phellandrene Pro-apoptotic, immunomodulatory, anti-inflammatory, pain relief, anti-depressive, anti-microbial
a-Pinene Anti-metastatic, anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-allergen
a-Terpinene Antioxidant, antibiotic
b-Caryophyllene Cell protection, anti-inflammatory, anti-convulsive, moderates pain, feeding behavior, and addictions
b-Pinene Anti-depressant, sedative, pain relief
Borneol Antipyretic, pain relief, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective
Caryophyllene Anti-cancer, analgesic, antioxidant, control of diabetes, cardiovascular disease, hypertension, renal disease, and
oxide some neuroglial conditions
g-Terpinene Anti-inflammatory, pain relief, antioxidant
Geraniol Potential for treatment of cancer, colitis, inflammation, diabetes, cardiac disease, arteriosclerosis, tissue
injuries, asthma, pain, neuropathy, and depression
Humulene Anti-allergenic, anti-inflammatory, antic cancer potential.
Limonene Wound healing, relieve stress, spasms, and viral infections. Antic-cancer and anti-tumor, anti-convulsant
Linalool Anti-tumor, anti-convulsant, pain- relief, sedative, anti-depressant, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative,
neuroprotective, hepatoprotective, anti-microbial
Myrcene Protects the brain, heart, and skin from inflammation and oxidative damage
Nerolidol Sedative, antioxidant, bactericide, anti-parasitic, pain relief, anti-inflammatory, antidepressant, anxiolytic,
anti-cancer. Treatment for neurodegenerative disease and environmental stress.
Perillyl alcohol Anti-cancer, anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, hepatoprotective, pain relief, anti-fungal and anti-parasitic
Terpineols Anticancer, anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory, antibiotic, spasmolytic, vasodilatory, anti-convulsant
Terpinolene Anti-cancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, sedative, pain relief
Savory Carvacrol
Spearmint l-carvone and derivatives
Thyme Thymol, carvacrol

Defining Flavors to Drive
Efficiencies Across the
F&B Industry
Understanding how to make the flavor selection process more efficient
for both flavor houses and food and beverage manufacturers.
BY JUAN MEIJA, marketing director, iSense and MATHIEU ASTE, CEO, iSense
Flavor creation combines science and artistry.
PF2112_Mejia_fcx.indd 48 11/5/21 4:13 PM

H
ow many times did you face the
flavor selection dilemma? Your
new product matrix is ready,
and it fulfills all marketing
requirements for texture, aspect
and nutrition. Now, it’s time to
select a flavor to craft the perfect
taste that will delight consumers.
Weeks of work are ahead of you. Briefing, select-
ing, tasting solutions, testing in the kitchen before
passing through your pilot and finally asking con-
sumers. But after all this comes together, only 15%
of all CPG productsa launched survive.
Unfortunately the company is left with little to no
data to understand why a particular flavor performed
the way it did and you have no way of gathering
iSense’s strawberry taste language.
insights to support operational efficiencies.
The flavor industry is an affair of passionate
chemists that have brought taste delights to con- 1. Flavor knowledge is experiential: It relies on
sumers for more than 120 years. But in spite of all experienced talent, and it’s not captured by the
the acquired knowledge and great talents, we have companies. When the person leaves, the knowledge
seen that less than one in 20 sample submissions leaves with them.
results in a sale. 2. Flavor collection management is inefficient:
So, the question stands: How to make the flavor Inventory is privileged over actionable sensory data,
selection process more efficient for both flavor making it easier to create new flavors than leverage
houses and food and beverage manufacturers? an existing one.
3. The flavor selection process is iterative: F&B
The Flavor Industry Misses Taste Standards manufacturers need to start from scratch for each
Selecting flavors has not changed much since the new project. There is no historical data, and thus
beginning of the industry. It starts with defining the no intelligence, to understand what specific notes or
client’s needs, which often doesn't include the taste sensory profiles drive consumer liking.
itself. Then technologists and flavorists do their best 4. Product failure rate remains high: Of new F&B
to translate the request into a flavor recommenda- products launched, 85% don’t survive, and for flavor
tion that answers the brief. This process depends houses, 95% of flavor sample submissions fail to
mostly on artistry and experiential knowledge and deliver a sale. The lack of taste specification impairs
rarely, if ever, on data. Why? the ability to build strategic knowledge and make
Because supporting flavor selection with data better flavor-related decisions.
is beyond most companies’ capabilities due to one 5. The flavor supply chain complexity only
single problem: flavors are not specified for their increases, leading to higher cost and longer
most important attribute, their taste profile. lead times.
We can draw a comparison with the color indus- As Givaudanb puts it, “Mastering complexity is a
try of the 1970s before Pantone established their key feature of our space” and it creates “high barri-
color standards. Selecting colors was a subjective ers to entry.” But is complexity inherent or is it the
exercise based on artistry until the creation of color result of the flavor house business model? Could it
palettes allowed companies to compare, benchmark, be addressed the same way Pantone addressed the
select and exchange colors efficiently. This changed complexity of the color business?
the color market up to the point that today, nobody
would buy a color without selecting it first from Setting Standards with an Open and
color palettes.
The lack of flavor taste standards creates a
Independent Taste Language
number of issues for both F&B manufacturers and Chefs and technologists generally have a good
flavor houses: idea of the taste they need and can express it with
words. Still, each of them, and each flavor house,
awww.foodnavigator.com/Article/2019/03/18/Most-new-products-fail-Implicit-
sensory-testing-can-help-beat-the-odds bwww.givaudan.com/file/822516/download
49

Defining Flavors to Drive Efficiencies Across the F&B Industry
uses different words to describe the

same taste perception. Take “phenolic”
for a vanilla flavor or “terpenic” for
a citrus flavor as examples. They can
mean 10 different things for 10 people.
An open and independent taste
language can solve the subjectivity
of flavor description and facilitate
communication. In effect, it allows to
synchronize attributes (words) with
a sensory perception (chemical refer-
ences), across flavor houses and across
geographies. Then panelists can be
trained, and flavors profiled in stan-
dardized conditions, i.e., each flavor
becomes associated with a unique
sensory signature. Flavors are defined
for their taste.
From there, flavor houses and F&B
manufacturers likewise can compare
between flavors, identify which flavor
attribute drives consumer liking to
create assertive flavor briefs and
increase NPD success rate.
Mapping the Sensory Space and

Building-up Consumer Data
Once flavors are defined for their taste and each
has a unique sensory profile, the sensory space
can be mapped and defined in clusters with close
Comparing strawberry flavors utilizing a common taste language.
sensory characteristics. In a similar way as colors
are defined between primary colors, red, blue,
green, with thousands of combinations of each,
flavors are defined by tonalities (vanilla strawberry, Defining Flavors and Commodification
chicken, etc.), and you can map 10,000 strawberry
One can always look at paradigm shifts as
flavors across suppliers to visualize the sensory
threats or as opportunities. In this case, we see
space efficiently.
that the benefits of transparency greatly overcome
The next step is to associate consumer data with
the risk of commodification. As mentioned by
each cluster to drive product success. Only then, a
Daniele Gerundino from ISO, standards support
chef searching for a strawberry flavor for his devel-
innovation by:
opment in Russia will select flavors in an objective
and efficient manner. • Contributing to technical evolution by reduc-
ing wasteful, redundant product development,
allowing to free up resources that can instead be
Turning Data into Strategic Assets dedicated to fresh, inventive work.
Profiling flavors generates complex sensory data • Facilitating the development of new markets and
that requires analytics, from simple comparison or trade by helping to establish and exploit network
benchmarking to complex mapping, clustering or effects, increasing consumer confidence and
predictive taste models. Sensory profiles are a new allowing to reach critical mass.
layer of data that can also be correlated to application • Permitting the sharing of investments and risks
recipes, F&B product sensory, consumer liking, flavor associated with the development of new tech-
chemistry and more. This requires specific software nologies and applications (fostering innovation
tools that turn data into strategic assets to accelerate through collaboration).
innovation and improve productivity. Luckily for us, • Helping the commercial exploitation of innova-
these technologies are within our reach today. tive ideas, providing a basis for the dissemination

Mapping the strawberry tonality, defining sensory clusters and visualizing the sensory space.
of information, and removing undue proprietary selection will soon be driven by connecting layers of
interests and barriers to tradec. data, including the flavor profiles, to generate effi-
Like Pantone did for colors, the setting of taste ciencies, accelerate innovation and support growth.
standards to define flavors will accelerate innovation And it all starts with defining flavors.
and change the flavor market.
About the Authors
The Future is Flavor Choice Driven by Juan Meija is the marketing director of iSense.
Analytics He has worked in the flavor industry for 12 years in
The 120 years old, $14 billion flavor industry Latin America, Europe, the Middle East, Africa and
hasn’t changed much when it comes down to India.
flavor selection. Mathieu Aste is the CEO of iSense. He has been
So, what is coming next? Flavorists will still working in the texture and flavor industries for 20
create magic and explore the boundaries of science. years across functions and regions. He is a convinced
Flavor houses will continue to provide great applica- supporter of sensory and consumer science applied
tions and concepts to help innovation. But flavor to flavors.
cwww.iso.org/files/live/sites/isoorg/files/store/en/PUB100404.pdf
51

Robertet's Jessica Reichert touches on the ingredient's
versatility and usage.
BY JESSICA REICHERT, perfumer, Robertet
Jessica Reichert, perfumer, Robertet
It seems appropriate that many of the myths of the iris relate to hope,
as it is my hope to learn more with this material and see it grow in
fragrance and recognition.
O
rris is a multifaceted and unique When using orris in formulations, the complex
floral that gives fragrance powdery notes are so versatile that they can be used
dimension and character. in everything from fine fragrance to personal care
Learning about its history, and home care. In fact, in Italy, which was the largest
cultural significance and the years production center of Iris throughout the 16th and
of dedication it takes to extract 17th centuries, it was used as the keynote in per-
orris has been fascinating. fumes, hair powders, and fabric packets due to its
While consumers are familiar with the beautiful strength and woody, floral and powdery signature.
and varied range of Iris flowers, it is the under- Using orris absolute to help fruity floral fra-
ground stem called the rhizome that is the source of grances create a lasting bloom in the shower or
orris extracts and the potent scent molecule found elevating a new dimension of luxury in musk and
within called irone. Robertet sources its orris from linen like fragrances has been a wonderful way to
different locations in Italy, China and Morocco. For see this raw material shine. It seems appropriate that
perfumery, we mostly use Orris from Italy and China, many of the myths of the Iris relate to hope, as it is
while flavorists love the Moroccan quality for its my hope to learn more with this material and see it
chocolate-like profile. grow in fragrance and recognition.
PF2111_Christophe_fcx.indd 52 11/5/21 4:13 PM

FRAGRANCE CREATION
FROM THE SOURCE
PF Full Page.indd 1 8/31/21 8:27 AM

New Horizons:
F&F Ventures into the
Chinese Market
F&F houses are expanding into the Chinese market with partnerships, innovation
centers and more.
This year Givaudan doubled down with business expansion in China.
T
he “smell economy” is booming in beauty brands looking to grow in China. The
China, with Chinese consumers month prior, Givaudan partnered with Tmall,
prioritizing sensory experiences. the Alibaba group's open business-to-consumer
Recent Mintela research predicts platform, to launch the T-Lab source innovation
that China’s fragrance industry laboratory and capture digital opportunities for
will grow at a CAGR of 17% with fragrance creation in China. Continuing to expand
market sales reaching 15.439 its ingredient and fragrance e-commerce offering in
billion yuan by 2025. China, Givaudan opened of its flagship business-to-
This potential for growth has caught the atten- business store on the wholesale website, 1688.com.
tion of companies across the F&F industry. Recent
headlines have highlighted facility openings in
the Middle Kingdom, as well as partnerships with
historical fragrance and flavor names, e-commerce
expansions and much more.
Fragrance
In July, Givaudan announced its investment
in the Series A funding round of Next Beauty, a
leading incubator for emerging fragrance and
a www.mintel.com/press-centre/beauty-and-personal-care/accelerated-growth-for-
chinas-fragrance-market-mintel-predicts-market-sales-of-15-439-billion-yuan-by-2025 Shiseido reportedly plans to expand its business in China and the Asia-Pacific region.
PF2112_Allured_fcx.indd 54 11/5/21 4:14 PM

This summer, Shiseido reportedly launched minorité 2020 Niche Perfumery Awards (mNPA) in
Issey Miyake, Narciso Rodriguez and Serge Lutens January 2021.
fragrances on Tmall, while also planning to expand Ilaria Resta, president, perfumery, Firmenich,
its luxury cross-border business in China and the said of the event, “China is a huge source of inspi-
Asia-Pacific region. ration for the fine fragrance industry and we are
In August, fragrance house Amouage began honored to be the exclusive partner again for the
expanding its distribution throughout China after minorité Niche Perfumery Awards 2020 in China.
signing a partnership with Hong Kong-based As the world leader in fine fragrance, Firmenich
S'Young International Trading Co. Ltd. They plan is focused on making fragrance benefits more
to debut on Tmall Global with a range of products vibrant, appealing and respectful for customers
including Epic, Dia, Honour, Memoir and the and consumers worldwide. This event gathers bril-
recently released Boundless and Material. liant fine fragrance talents in China and provides
Juliette Has a Gun is another fragrance an excellent platform to showcase these talents to
company with a focus on the Chinese consumer a global audience.”
market. In January, the company chose Cathay This year Firmenich also celebrated the third
Capital as a minority shareholder, with the objec- anniversary this year of its flagship ALIBABA e-shop
tive of leveraging the company's strategic and with an enhanced range of fragrance and flavor
financial support to expand the direct-to-consumer ingredients and digital customer experience. Offering
channel and accelerate its international develop- a quadrupled selection of signature products, the
ment in China especially. pioneering Firmenich ALIBABA e-shop includes a
Firmenich has also partnered with niche series of flavor ingredients aimed at SMEs (small and
Chinese fine fragrance company minorité for the medium-sized enterprises) in China.
55

New Horizons: F&F Ventures into the Chinese Market
Tariff Talk
ADM issued a statement in support of the Phase
One Trade Agreement with China on June 16, 2020,
designed to cut U.S. tariffs on certain Chinese
exports in exchange for increased purchases of U.S.
farm, energy and manufactured products.
ADM’s statement read, “We are proud to join other
food and agriculture companies from across America
today to support the Phase One Trade Agreement
with China. A strong and resilient food supply chain
is essential in providing nutrition to consumers
around the globe, and in supporting American Kao continues their partnership with the CEEC to advocate for an energy-saving and
low-carbon lifestyle.
farmers, ranchers and rural communities.”
Facility Openings flavorings in the rapidly expanding Chinese market

Most recently, ADM unveiled the ADM Food correlates with the history of Symrise in the country.
Technology Co., Ltd., a fully automated flavor In the past ten years, the company has grown
production facility situated in Pinghu, Zhejiang around 8% per year on average. With a 6% share
Province, China. in September. The complex fea- of total sales, China follows the United States and
tures automated flavor lines with advanced dosing Germany as the third-strongest revenue-generating
technology, flavor production, taste design and market for Symrise.
product development labs and more. This past July, Symrise Diana Pet Food also
In May, Symrise opened a production site for opened of a factory in Chuzhou, Anhui Province,
flavorings and fragrances in Nantong, China. The China. It is the first Diana Pet Food site in the Asia
expansion of the production of fragrances and Pacific to feature a spray dryer and a measurement
center for pet food palatability, making it a unique
site on the continent for the company.
Sustainability
In August, Kao collaborated with the Center
for Environmental Education and Communic
ations (CEEC) of China's Ministry of Ecology
and Environment to promote China’s nationwide
cleanliness and water-saving initiatives. In addition
to advocating an energy-saving and low-carbon life-
style, Kao will continue to raise awareness regarding
environmental protection in China and commit to
The new factory offers an enlarged portfolio and environmentally friendly design the sustainable growth of society.
and processes.

What’s Coming to
World Perfumery Congress 2022
The return of WPC brings insight from fragrance experts, networking opportunities
and much more.
BY JENNA RIMENSNYDER, managing editor, Perfumer & Flavorist+
The WPC is the global stage for fragrance artistry, ingredients, technology, brands and business.
T
he time has finally come to safely
reconnect with fellow movers and
shakers in the global fragrance
industry. On behalf of presenters
American Society of Perfumers and
producers Perfumer & Flavorist+,
we are proud to announce that
the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) is returning
to Miami Beach, Florida June 29-July 1, 2022. Visit
worldperfumerycongress.com to join in the fun.
>>Registration is now open.<<
The WPC is the global stage for fragrance artistry,

ingredients, technology, brands and business. The
2022 congress will address the future of the industry.
WPC 2022 will be held in person followed by a
Virtual Congress.
57
PF2112_WPC_fcx.indd 57 11/5/21 4:15 PM

What’s Coming to World Perfumery Congress 2022
It has been four years since the record-breaking WPC was held in Nice, France.
Prepare for a lineup of the industry’s global inno- 2018 and is expected to expand at a CAGR of 3.9%
vation leaders, including perfumers, R&D specialists, from 2019 to 2025.
marketers and product developers, executives, But what does the future hold for the fragrance
market analysts and more. industry in the post-COVID environment?
Here's a sneak peek of what’s to come at the Experts from across the fragrance industry are
upcoming World Perfumery Congress. set to take the stage to talk about the demands of
the post-COVID consumer, anticipated trends and
untapped potential in the market.
Reconnecting From leading fragrance houses to burgeoning indie
It has been four years since the record-breaking companies, attendees will have the opportunity to
WPC was held in Nice, France, which hosted more mine gems of insight from speakers as well as from
than 1,800 attendees and more than 200 perfumers. buzzing conversations taking place on the showroom
Following an unprecedented period of upheaval, this floor from exhibitors. Not to mention brand marketer
coming event is set to be one of the most exciting yet. talks from consumer goods companies, this congress
It is time once again to safely gather to reconnect, is bursting at the seams with wisdom.
dig into new trends, get acquainted with the latest
innovative technologies, and collectively address
current challenges and opportunities in the industry. Sustainability
A major buzzword in the industry, sustainability
Future of Fragrance continues to play a significant role in business goals,
sourcing initiatives, formulating exciting fragrances
According to Grandview Researcha, the global
and much more.
perfume market size was valued at $31.4 billion in
The term also spans into understanding the
nuances of the unpredictable supply chains, surges
awww.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/perfume-market#:~:text=The%20
global%20perfume%20market%20size,for%20luxury%20and%20exotic%20
in demand for natural products and the possi-
fragrances. bilities for synthetic ingredients. While the path to
PF2112_WPC_fcx.indd 58 11/5/21 4:15 PM

sustainability is not a one size fits all model, WPC’s
agenda is set to devote time to gather seasoned
minds from the industry to discuss opportunities,
challenges and provide insight on how to further
sustainable initiatives in the lab and beyond.
Wellness
Globe Newswireb reported that the global health
and wellness market reached a value of $3.31 billion
in 2020.
A side effect of COVID-19, consumer demand for
wellness products continues to rise from better-for-
you options to CBD-infused fragrances and air care
to fine fragrances boasting wellness benefits. Experts weigh in on the future of fragrance in a post-COVID environment during WPC 2022.
Experts will weigh in on the opportunity in the
wellness market for fragrance professionals. From
recent product launches to ingredients marketed as Get Your Seat
“evoking calmness,” attendees will gain a better under- Don’t miss out on upcoming details, speaker
standing of how to tap into the ascending market. announcements and much more. Register to be
in-the-know on all things WPC 2022, visit www.
worldperfumerycongress.com. Can’t make the in-
bwww.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2021/02/24/2181202/28124/en/Global-
Health-and-Wellness-Market-2021-to-2026-Industry-Trends-Share-Size-Growth- person event? Hang tight. There will be more details

Opportunity-and-Forecast.html to come regarding a virtual component.
59
PF2112_WPC_fcx.indd 59 11/9/21 9:00 AM

The green, herbal notes of thyme oil white will add character and depth to oregano, anise and licorice.
Organoleptic Characteristics
of Flavor Materials
This month’s column features discussions on fir needle oil,
violet leaf absolute, sage oil and more.
BY JUDITH MICHALSKI
Senior Flavorist, abelei flavors;
jmichalski@abelei.com
Organoleptic Evaluation Panelists
• Gerard Mosciano, Consulting Flavorist
• Deborah Barber, Senior Flavorist, FONA
• Cyndie Lipka, Principal Flavorist, Bell Flavors and Fragrances
• Tom Gibson, Director, Flavor Architect, Flavor First Flavors
• Robert Pan, Senior Flavorist, T. Hasegawa
• Alpa Roman, Senior Flavorist, Flavor & Fragrance Specialties
• Bill Aslanides, Senior Flavorist, Synergy Flavors, Inc.
Reproduction
Reproduction in English
in English or any
or any other
other languageofofallallororpart
language part of
of this article
articleisisstrictly
strictlyprohibited.
prohibited.©©
2021 Allured
2016 Business
Allured Media.
Business Media.
PF2112_Michalski_fcx.indd 60 11/9/21 9:11 AM

Fir needle oil
Source: Citrus and Allied Essences Ltd.
FEMA# 2905, CAS# 8021-29-2, Abies sibirica,
natural.
Odor: @ 1%. Cooling, piney, green and
slightly woody.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Slightly cooling, piney, woody,
green and slightly tart.
Taste: @ 5 ppm. Cooling, piney, oily, woody,
earthy and tart.
Possible applications: This essential oil will
impart lovely depth to citrus flavors, especially
lemon, lime and bergamot and also to gin, ret-
sina and tequila. Other flavors that will benefit
are mango and black pepper flavors.
Citrus and Allied Essences:
www.citrusandallied.com
Fir needle oil will impart lovely depth to citrus flavors, especially lemon, lime and bergamot.
Menthone, natural
Source: Vigon Violet leaf absolute
FEMA# 2667, CAS# 10458-14-7; 89-80-5 Source: Robertet
Natural occurrence: Buchu, peppermint, cornmint FEMA# 3110, CAS# 8024-08-6, Viola odorata, natural.
and spearmint. Odor: @ 1%. Green, slightly phenolic, waxy, vegeta-
Odor: @ 1%. Sweet, sharp, minty, menthol-like ble-like and cucumber-like.
and fresh. Taste: @ 1 ppm. Soft, green, waxy sweet, cucumber/
Taste: @ 1 ppm. Cooling, sweet, minty and melon-like and vegetable-like.
astringent. Taste: @ 2 ppm. Waxy, green, vegetable-like, slightly
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Cooling, peppermint-like, astringent earthy and cucumber/melon-like.
and sweet. Possible applications: This costly material will add
Possible applications: Oral care flavors like pepper- character notes to cucumber and melon flavors,
mint, spearmint, cinnamon and wintergreen are like honeydew and watermelon. Other flavors it
all very good applications for this material. Its will enliven are green pepper, avocado, spinach,
cooling, trigeminal character will also add interest kiwi and green grape.
to flavors for cocktails and mocktails. Robertet: www.robertet.com
Vigon: www.vigon.com
Oakwood CO2 extract 504466

Source: Vigon
21CFR 172.510, CAS# 71011-28-4, Quercus robur,
natural.
Odor: @ 100%. Sweet, woody, brown, alcoholic,
slightly spicy and bourbon-like.
Taste: @ 10 ppm. Slightly woody, brown and
vanilla-like.
Taste: @ 20 ppm. Woody, sweet, brown, cask-like
and vanilla-like.
Possible applications: This extract will add lovely
aged, cask-like, vanilla notes to alcoholic fla-
vors, including whiskey, rum, añejo tequila,
fruit liqueurs and bourbon. Other brown fla-
vors where it will enhance the profile include
vanilla, tobacco, maple, cola, chocolate, caramel,
mocha, etc.
Violet leaf absolute will add character notes to cucumber and melon flavors, like honeydew
and watermelon. Vigon: www.vigon.com
61
PF2112_Michalski_fcx.indd 61 11/5/21 4:16 PM

Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials
Sage oil, Dalmatian 30%

Source: Bontoux
FEMA# 3003, CAS# 8022-56-8, Salvia offici-
nalis, natural.
Odor: @ 100%. Cooling, green, woody, herbal,
slightly pepper-like and savory.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Cooling and herbal.
Taste: @ 5 ppm. Cooling, herbal, minty,
slightly woody and tingly.
Possible applications: Though it is usually
considered for meat spices like chicken,
turkey and especially sausage, sage oil
might also be considered for mint, anise,
tequila, gin and absinthe flavors.
Bontoux: www.bontoux.com
Sage oil can also be considered for mint, anise, tequila, gin and absinthe flavors.
Cumin seed essential oil
Source: Robertet
FEMA# 2343, CAS# 8014-13-9, natural. meat, to name a few. It might also be considered
Odor: @ 100%. Warm, savory, spicy, herbal, oily and for use in flavors for monkish liqueurs.
slightly cooling. Bontoux: www.bontoux.com
Taste: @ 1 ppm. Warm, oily, brown, woody and green.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Warm, oily, spicy, woody brown Natural honey distillate #27918
and green. Source: Horner International
Possible applications: Cumin oil is most often asso- Odor: @ 100%. Brown, malty, slightly beery, sweet,
ciated with chili and will add familiar notes to floral and honey.
Mexican seasoning blends. It also has the ability Taste: @ 0.2%. Brown, slightly floral, sweet, powdery,
to add depth to spice blends for curry and hum- malty and honey.
mus. It might also be used to add a mysterious Possible applications: Honey flavor is the obvious
twist to sweet spice flavors like cinnamon, clove, choice for this material. It will also be very use-
mint and blends thereof. ful in beer, rum, malt, maple and floral and
Robertet: www.robertet.com sweet flavors.
Horner International: www.horner-intl.com
Thyme oil white
Source: Bontoux Cocoa extract #3079
FEMA# 3065, CAS# 8007-46-3, Thymus vulgaris, Source: Horner International
natural. CAS# 84649-99-0, Theobroma cacao, natural.
Odor: @ 100%. Green, slightly cooling, herbal, spicy, Odor: @ 100%. Cocoa, sweet, brown, slightly tobacco-
medicinal and tarry. like and powdery.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Herbal, oily, bitter, spicy, slightly Taste: @ 0.1%. Dark, sweet, chocolate, brown and
cooling, green and tarry. astringent.
Taste: @ 5 ppm. Green, oily, tarry, herbal, cooling Possible applications: This extract will be useful in
and medicinal. all chocolate flavors, as well as brown flavors,
Possible applications: The green, herbal notes this including mocha, coffee, caramel, tobacco and
essential oil will add character and depth to oreg- even roast beef.
ano, anise and licorice, as well as seasoning blends Horner International: www.horner-intl.com
for salad dressing, pizza, pasta sauce, soups and
PF2112_Michalski_fcx.indd 62 11/5/21 4:16 PM

Register Today!
June 29-July 1, 2022
Miami Beach Convention Center
Miami, FL, USA
www.WorldPerfumeryCongress.com
WPC 2022_Register_Today.indd 1 7/21/21 12:19 PM

F&F Resources
EQUIPMENT F&F INGREDIENTS
Accurate Dosing Systems John Kellys (London) Limited / Augustus Oils Ltd
Australia John Kellys Europe B.V. United Kingdom
+61 431 501 025 United Kingdom / Rotterdam +44 1420 590555
info@accuratedosingsystems.com.au (UK) 07821 687860 sales@augustus-oils.ltd.uk
trading@johnkellys.com • www.johnkellys.com www.augustus-oils.ltd.uk
www.https://accuratedosingsystems.com.au/ Quality certified essential oils, natural chemicals, extracts and
Global supplier of Essential Oils and Aromatic Chemicals of 80+ years
Robotic systems to simplify F&F ingredient dosing with automation with exclusive in-house quality control. much more.. the complete ingredient package
To reserve your space

Contact Paige Crist
+1 630-344-6060, pcrist@allured.com
www.perfumerflavorist.com
Ad Index
Advertiser Web site Page
Agrumaria Reggina www.agrumariareggina.it 23
Aurochemicals www.aurochemicals.com 27
Axxence Aromatic GmbH www.axxence.com 7
Bedoukian Research, Inc. www.bedoukian.com C3
Berjé, Inc. www.berjeinc.com 5
Elemental Container www.aluminumbottles.com 15
European SprayDry Technologies www.spray-dryer.com 38
Flavorcon www.flavorcon.com 51
Fleurchem, Inc. www.fleurchem.com 22
Frey + Lau GmbH www.freylau.de 34
Gusmer Enterprises, Specialty Products www,gusmerenterprises.com 33
Hangzhou Grascent Co., Ltd. www.hangzhougrascent.com 21
Indesso Aroma, PT www.indesso.com 39
Isobionics B.V. www.isobionics.com 55
JiaXing ShengYuan Import & Export Co. Ltd. www.shengyuan-china.com 35
John Wright www.johnrwright.com 25
MilliporeSigma sigma-aldrich.com/flavors-fragrances C2
Natural Advantage www.natadv.com 19
Norex Flavours Pvt. Ltd. www.menthol-mint.com 47
Penta Manufacturing Co. www.pentamfg.com C4
Pope Scientific www.popescientific.com 59
Robertet SA www.robertet.com 53
Symrise www.symrise.com 1
Vigon International, Inc. www.vigon.com 3
World Perfumery Congress www.worldperfumerycongress.com 63
64 F&F Resources / Ad Index Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF2112_FF Resources-Ad Index_irv.indd 64 11/5/21 4:16 PM

Developing Better Products
through Natural Chemistry
Happy Holidays from our Family to Yours
50 Okner Parkway, Livingston, New Jersey 07039-1604

Phone: (973) 740-2300 Fax: (973) 740-1839
E-Mail: sales@pentamfg.com Web: www.pentamfg.com
Penta Manufacturing Company

A Division of Penta International Corporation
PF2112_Penta_Christmas2021.indd 1 10/28/21 8:47 AM

Perfumerflavorist202112 DL

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Perfumerflavorist202112 DL

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Developing Better Products

through Natural Chemistry

50 Okner Parkway, Livingston, New Jersey 07039-1604

Penta Manufacturing Company

PF2112_Penta_Christmas2021.indd 1 10/28/21 8:47 AM

Using Terpenes to Make

PF2112_Cover.indd 1 11/5/21 3:48 PM

Learn more by visiting us at:

PF Full Page.indd 1 10/27/21 2:40 PM

PF Full Page.indd 1 11/8/21 1:02 PM

28 6 Editor’s Note: F&F Forges Ahead

8 Industry Insights: Freshly Picked Predictions

8 [Podcast] Exploring Emotion AI with O My Note

10 Product Roundup: Ingredients & Packaging

40 20 Profiles: Miguel-Angel Escareno and Caroline Sabas

24 Flavor Bites: Benzothiazole

28 Citrus In Demand: Squeezing out New Potential

32 Family Affair: One-on-One with Berjé’s Gillian

36 40 Using Terpenes to Make Flavors with Health Halos

48 Defining Flavors to Drive Efficiencies Across the

52 Perfumer Notes: Orris

2 Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF2112_TOC-Masthead_DM.indd 2 11/9/21 9:31 AM

54 New Horizons: F&F Ventures into the

64 F&F Resources Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/subscribe

64 Ad Index (9 AM-5 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816

4 Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF2112_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 4 11/9/21 9:07 AM

F&F Forges Ahead

World Perfumery Congress 2022 JOHN WRIGHT

6 Editor’s Note Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF2112_EdNote_fcx.indd 6 11/5/21 3:50 PM

8 Industry Insights Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF2112_Industry Insights_fcx.indd 8 11/5/21 3:51 PM

PF2112_Industry Insights_fcx.indd 9 11/5/21 3:51 PM

Ingredients & Packaging

trans-2-Decenol natural (US), ≥97%, FG

Natural ethyl butyrate ex orange FTNF

10 Product Roundup Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF2112_Roundup_fcx.indd 10 11/5/21 3:52 PM

1 and 1.5 Gallon aluminum bottles

PF2112_Roundup_fcx.indd 11 11/5/21 3:52 PM

Givaudan Launches Olfactive Social Listening Tool DigiPulse

Givaudan Acquires DDW, The Color House

12 Industry Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF2112_IndustryNews_fcx.indd 12 11/5/21 3:53 PM

Capiton Acquires Majority Stake in Axxence Group

PF2112_IndustryNews_fcx.indd 13 11/5/21 3:53 PM

Dior Appoints Francis Kurkdjian as Perfume Creation Director

14 Industry Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF2112_IndustryNews_fcx.indd 14 11/5/21 3:53 PM

Eurofragance Debuts First Captive: L’Âme du Bois

PF2112_IndustryNews_fcx.indd 15 11/5/21 3:53 PM

IFF Chairman and CEO Andreas Fibig to Retire

EFFA Announces President and Appoints New Board Members

16 Industry Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF2112_IndustryNews_fcx.indd 16 11/5/21 3:53 PM

Inter Parfums Completes Acquisition of Salvatore

PF2112_IndustryNews_fcx.indd 17 11/5/21 3:53 PM

Mane Celebrates 150th Anniversary

18 Industry Vol. 46 • December 2021 | Perfumer & Flavorist+ www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF2112_IndustryNews_fcx.indd 18 11/5/21 3:53 PM

Miguel-Angel Escareno, senior