Analysis of Cosmetics

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 Cosmetics
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 Word Cosmetic is originated from Greek word

“kosmeticos” means adorn and preparation.
 It is external preparation meant for applying on
external parts of the body i.e.nails, skin, hairs for
coloring, covering, softening, cleaning, nourishing,
setting, preservation, removal and protection.
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 Other way of defining cosmetics is:

“it is item intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled,
introduced in to, otherwise applied to the human
body or part there for cleaning, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness or altering the
appearance”.
 Type of Cosmetics
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Analysis:
 Skin cosmetic
 Teeth cosmetic
 Hair cosmetic
 Nail polish
 Eye cosmetic
 Other cosmetic
 Analysis of cosmetics
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 Physical analysis of cosmetics

 Microbiological analysis of cosmetics
 Chemical analysis of cosmetics
 1. Physical analysis of cosmetics
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Skin cosmetics  Hand or body lotion :

 Skin cream: a. Hand cleanser
a. Make up cream b. Hand lotion
foundation  Sunscreen
b. Moisturizer  Face powder
d. Night cream  Special cream
e. Protective cream a. Anti acne
f. Cleansing cream b. Skin tonic
c. Anti ageing
d. Cosmetic for men
 Evaluation of skin cosmetic
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 General sensitivity test:

For primary potential irritants Draize’s test use. In this
test rabbits are clipped and substance to be tested is
applied to
– intact skin – abrase skin
 All of them are covered with a patch for 24 hours and
changes are assessed. If there is no reaction in any of
the animals, the same test should be performed on 10
humans volunteers applying the substances on the skin
of forearm.
 This test can be carried put on 10 lab animals either
guinea pig.
 1. Patch Test
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It has two purposes

 Diagnostic : to discover whether
the cosmetic used has caused dermatitis.
 Prophetic : To assess whether
a new cosmetic should be placed on market or not.

GENERAL PROCEDURE : cosmetic to be tested is applied

on a piece of cotton fabric and apply this to skin of arms
or back. Allow to remain on skin for 24-72 hours. Sites of
patched are examined after 30 minutes of removal of
patch by an experienced dermatologist.
 Observations and their grade
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 No Reaction ------
 Erythema only +
 Erythema with papules ++
 Papilovascular +++
 Ulceration or necrosis ++++

If no reaction, subjects should be observed for 3 to 5 days

to ascertain any late reaction. Its advisable to find out
whether material causes photo sensitization. If there is
reaction, further test are necessary to find out which
ingredient is responsible for reaction. If no
reaction……same reapplied to same place or fresh patch
may be applied.
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 Open Patch Test : - cosmetics with higher % of

potential irritants like hair dyes, shampoos, hair
tonics, patches should not be sealed. - Performed on
sensitive part of skin, skin behind ears. - Inspection
after 24 hours.
 Prophetic Patch test: It performed on 10 humans, - If
favorable results, 200 normal subjects are used.
Subjects are observed for a days. After 7-10 days,
reapplied on, who didn’t show reaction. If no
reaction…… New product can be placed on trial sale.
 2) Photo patch Test
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Certain substances are not harmful by themselves

but they become harmful when exposed to sunlight.
Substances that absorb light in between 300-308 nm
have potential of photo toxicity.
- So when a substance is considered phototoxic, this
test may be performed.
- Same as standard patch test, duplicate patches are
applied and after 24 hrs one of the patches in pair is
exposed to sunlight for 30 minutes & covered again.
 SKIN CREAM
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Evaluation of Moisturizing efficiency.

1. In vitro testing or laboratory assessment:
Investigators have attempted to define the mechanism of
water binding in the stratum corneum . Influence of
temperature and humidity on the epidermis . The
method assess degree of moisture in skin and the
hydration effects of moisturizers through changes in
mechanical properties of stratum corneum .
Extensibility measurements
Measurements of Tensile properties of excised stratum
corneum :
a) Using a Tensile Strength Tester along with samples of
stratum corneum from variety of sources.
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b) Gravimetric Analytical Method is used to establish

relationship between relative humidity and stratum
corneum water content. Utilizing this technique, the
water sorption/desorption characteristics of test
corneum membrane can be determined before and
after treatments
c) Thermal analytical techniques like TGA are used to
provide information on the significance of
temperature induced phase changes occurring in
stratum corneum.
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2) In Vivo assessment:
To study hydration or moisturisation of skin ;
Dermatoscopy all creams are evaluated for
uniformity of color, smoothness and texture.
 Sunscreen products
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Sun Protection Factor:

R.Schulze defined a “Light Protection Factor“ or “Protective Index” PI
SPF is defined as the ratio between the time needed to achieve erythema on
protected skin divided by the time needed to get it on unprotected skin.
Two methods
a) Human Methods
b) Animal Method

Minimum erythema Dose & SPF is determined. After application of sample, subjects
are exposed to an 35 to 38°C.

Product Category Designation (PCD) :

Minimal SPF 2 to 4
Moderate 4 to 6
Extra 6 to 8
Maximal 8 to 15
Ultra More than 15
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 SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays

 SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays

 SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays

 FACE POWDERS
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 Face powder may be either of fine powder or compact.

Evaluation:
1 ) Fineness of Powder -Sieving method , -Microscopic Method
2) Apparent Density Shade & Uniformity of shade
3) Comparison with standard shade kept for this purpose. -
Commonly std and sample both are placed between two glass plates
and compared Observed in natural light.
4) Odor - No physical measure for odor.
5) Pressure applied on compact powder.
6) Breaking point .
7) Matter insoluble in water : Boil 1 g powder with 200ml, filter, dry
residue & find out.
8) Moisture & volatile matter : By drying powder at 105°C to constant
weight.
9) pH of aqueous solution : By making suspension in water of 10 %.
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Pay off

10) the pay-off character,

i.e. adhesion with the
compact or pressed
powder should be tested
on the skin
 SPECIAL CREAMS
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Includes a) Anti acne b) Skin tonics c) Anti ageing d) Cosmetic for Men.

Anti Acne : Acne is varied group of diseases from teenage to cystic acne
commonly due to acnes which are quite susceptible to antimicrobial agents.
Salicylic acid, sulfur, benzoyl peroxide is widely preferred.
Evaluation : Particle size of anti acne compound, Antimicrobial efficacy.
Skin tonic : used as Skin healing, promotion of tissue growth, Refreshing
sensation.
Anti-ageing
Cosmetic for Men : There is physiological differences between male & female.
Cosmetics for male includes shave preparations, sunscreens cream, etc.
 Lipsticks
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1) Melting point :
 Determination of melting point is important as it is an
indication of the limit of safe storage.
 Determined by capillary tube method. The capillary was
filled, keep in the capillary apparatus and firstly observed
the product was slowly-slowly melted. After sometimes was
observed the product was completely melted.
 The above procedure was done in 3 times.
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2) Softening point : it gives indication whether lipsticks

will able to withstand variation in climate or not.
3) Color Match
- Pay off Test
- Determination of consistency
- Test for Rancidity, stability, Arsenic & heavy metals.
- Stability studies are performed at Refrigerator
temperature (4°C), Room T (15-20) And high summer
30-40.
- Parameters : Streaking, Cratering, And blooming.
4) Solubility test: The formulation herbal lipstick was
dissolved in various solvents to observe the solubility.
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5) Breaking point : Breaking point is done to determine the

strength of lipstick. The lipstick is held horizontally in a socket ½
inch away from the edge of support. The weight is gradually
increased by a specific value (10 g) at specific interval of 30 second
and weight at which breaks is considered as the breaking point.
6) Skin irritation test : It is carried out by applying product on the
skin for 10 min.
7) Aging stability : The product is stored at 40˚ c and periodical
observation of oil bleed, crystallization of wax on surface.
8) Perfume stability: The formulation herbal lipstick was tested
after 30 days, to record the fragrance. Some raw materials have the
ability to make fragrances adhere to the skin longer before the
fragrance is volatilized. This capability is measured using a gas
chromatography
9) Surface anomalies: This is studied by the surface defects, such
as no formation crystals on surfaces, no contamination by fungi etc.
 Eye Cosmetics
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a) Eye Liner & eye pencils

Eye liner should be applied in a thin line.
b) Mascara : To accentuate the eyelashes and make
them more visible.
Texture
Good drying qualities
Shiny
c) Eye Shadows
 Nail lacquers and removers
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Nail lacquers and removers

1) Non-volatile content : this can be done by taking defining
amount of lacquers and applying on plate of flat surface.
Weight of the residual film after evaporation of solvent will
indicate the non volatile content.
2) Hardness : after application of the film on a flat surface the
hardness is measured by applying pressure mechanically.
3) Water resistance : this is the measurement of the
resistance towards water permeability of the film. This is done
by applying a continuous film on a surface and immersing it
in water.
The weights before and after immersion are noted.
4) Viscosity : this is also an important character
and can be measured by viscometer.
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5 ) Smoothness : the film is applied on surface and

surface characteristics of film studied
microscopically.
6) Drying rate : this can be done by taking the
product on a flat surface and touching the product
with tip of finger at short interval of time.
 Shampoo
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1 ) Foaming ability and foam stability : Cylinder shake method

was used for determining foaming ability. 50 ml of the 1% shampoo
solution was put into a 250 ml graduated cylinder and covered the
cylinder with hand and shaken for 10 times. The total volumes of
the foam contents after 1 minute shaking were recorded. The foam
volume was calculated only. Immediately after shaking the volume
of foam at 1 minute intervals for 4 minutes were recorded.

Figure : Ross-miles
foam column
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2) Viscosity : this is also an important character and can be

measured by viscometer
3) Effect on hair : this can be studied by half-head technique.
In which half of the hair is shampooed and the other half is
used as control
4) Effect on skin and eyes : this can be measured by
applying it on animals
5) pH : the pH of shampoo can be measured by pH meter and it
should be between 6.0-9.0 6
6) Stability studies : The thermal stability of formulations
was studied by placing in glass tubes and they were placed in a
humidity chamber at 45°C and 75% relative humidity. Their
appearance and physical stability were inspected for a period
of 3 months at interval of one month.
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7) Cleansing action : it can be tested on wool yarn

in grease.
For this method place 5 g of wool yarn in grease in
200 ml of water containing 1 g of shampoo in a flask,
shake the flask for 4 minute at rate of 50 times a
minute. Remove the solution and take out the
sample. Dry it and weigh it. The loss in weight will
indicate the amount of grease removed which is the
cleansing action of shampoo.
 Tooth paste & tooth powders
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Particle size : this can be determined by microscopic

study of the particles or by other means.
The pH of the aqueous solution : the pH of dispersion
of 10% of the product in water is determined by pH
meter.
Consistency : it is important that the product, paste,
should maintain the consistency to enable the product
press out from the container. Study of viscosity is
essential for this.
Volatile matters and moisture : a specific amount of
product is taken in a dish and drying is done till constant
weight. Loss of weight will indicate amount of moisture
present in product.
 Shaving preparations
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SHAVING PREPARATION are product employed by the men to help in

shaving.

Evaluation for shaving cream

1. consistency & texture 2. homogeneity

3. foam texture 4. stability
5. effect on container 6. total fatty substance
7. water content 8. pH
9. viscosity, density & stability of product
 2) Microbiological analysis of cosmetics
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Cosmetics should be free from micro-organisms.

The detection and elimination of microbial contamination of
cosmetics is very important to maximize shelf life.

Sample preparation for microbiological analysis

 For liquid: take 1 ml of liquid and diluted with 9 ml of
modified letheen broth(MLB) in screw-cap test tube.
 Solid and powders: weigh 1 g of sample in to screw-cap test
tube containing 1 ml sterile tween 80. disperse product in
tween 80 with sterile spatula. Add 8 ml sterile MLB and mix
thoroughly.
 Wax / fatty products (lipsticks): weigh 10 g of sample in to
sterile tween 20. disperse with a sterile spatula to form a
paste. Add 78 ml sterile MLB and mix thoroughly.
 Method for microbiological analysis
a) Pour-plate
32 technique

The sample should be diluted temperature and conditions.

successively with sterile After few days, different
water. The agar medium is kinds of microbe grow as
maintained in molten state separate colonies.
at 45˚c. 1 ml of diluted
sample is added to sterile
petri dish to which is then
poured 9 ml of sterile, cool
agar medium. The contents
are thoroughly mixed and
allowed to solidify. The dish
is incubated at suitable
 b) membrane filtration method
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A known amount of pretreated material or its dilution

is passed trough membrane filter assembly. Wash it
3 successive times each of 100 ml of buffered Nacl-
peptone solution. Transfer the membrane on the
surface of solid agar medium in a sterile Petri dish.
The dish is incubated at suitable temperature and
conditions.
After few days different kinds of microbe grow as
separate colonies.
 3) Chemical analysis of cosmetics
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 Chemical analysis of cosmetics is very important to

ensure that only permitted ingredient are added to the
product, information on the label is correct or not, and to
help in forensic investigation.
 General methods
 Determination of methanol in relation to ethanol or 2-propanol by
gas chromatography.
 Determination of dichloromethane and 1,1,1 trichloroethane by gas
chromatography.
 Determination of chlorobutanol by gas chromatography.
 Determination of hexachlorophene by gas chromatography.
 Determination of water by gas chromatography.
 Determination of propylene glycol by gas chromatography.
 Deodorants and antiperspirants
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Aluminium and zinc in deodorants by gravimetric

method or by flame atomic absorption spectroscopy.
Zirconium in anti perspirants by colorimetric method
or by flame atomic absorption spectrometry.
Boric acid in deodorants and anti perspirants by ion-
exchange method.
Chlorides and sulfates in deodorants by gravimetric
method.
Methenamine and urea in deodorants by titrimetric
method.
 Hair preparation
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Quinine in shampoo and in hair lotion by HPLC

Oxalic acid and alkaline salt in hair-care product by
filtration.
Free sodium and potassium hydroxide in hair
straightener by filtration.
Mercapto acetic acid in hair-waving and in hair-
straightening by iodometric titration or gas
chromatography.
Selenium disulphide as selenium in anti-dandruff
shampoos by atomic absorption spectrometry.
 Analytical Methods for Hair Dyes
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According to how long-lasting they are three types

 temporary,
 semi-permanent,
 permanent hair colours

Methods use for quantitative and semi quantitative

determination of hair dyes are
Spectrophotometry UV-Vis,
thin-layer chromatography (TLC),
gas chromatography (GC),
liquid chromatography (LC)
 Tooth pastes
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Tooth pastes
Chloroform and chlorates of alkali metals in tooth paste by
gas chromatography.
Total fluorine in dental creams by gas chromatography.
Creams and pastes
Nitrite creams and pastes by Spectrophotometry UV-Vis.
Vanishing creams
Water
Ash
Chloroform soluble material by GC
 Analytical Methods Colouring Agents in
Decorative and other Cosmetics
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 Analytical Methods Colouring Agents in Decorative

and other Cosmetics Decorative cosmetics are
principally used to beautify.
 The different types of decorative cosmetics include
foundations, lipsticks, mascaras, nail lacquers and
powders.
 Determination of colouring agents in
cosmetic products
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Thin-layer chromatography
Liquid chromatography
Spectrophotometry
Other methods
dyes in lipstick using micellar electrokinetic
capillary chromatography (MEKC)
 Analytical Methods Preservatives in
Cosmetics
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 Analytical Methods Preservatives in Cosmetics.

preservatives belonging to different chemical classes
therefore, multicomponent analysis methods are
required ,like
1. ion-pair and reversed-phase LC with UV/Vis detection,
2. Thin layer chromatography (TLC)
3. capillary electrophoresis (CE)
4. capillary zone electrophoresis (CZE)
5. gas chromatography (GC) with flame ionization
detector (FID), electron capture detector (ECD) or
mass spectrometry (MS) detector used for preservative
determination
 Analysis of perfumes
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ultra violet/visible spectrometry (UV/VIS),

infrared spectrometry (IR)
nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR),
gas chromatography (GC), both by injection or in headspace
(HS) mode
liquid chromatography (LC) and thin-layer chromatography
(TLC) have also been applied for quantitative and/or
qualitative purposes in perfume analysis,
GC-MS
LC-UV/VIS
GC-FID
TLC
 Conclusion
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 A variety of substances are used in the

manufacturing of cosmetics so, finished cosmetics,
when used on human body, have potential for several
type of adverse reaction. The adverse effect include
skin irritation and allergy sensitization, photo
toxicity and photo allergy.
 With growing consumers awareness and
enforcement of consumer protection act, it is
necessary for cosmetic manufacturers to assess
quality, stability and potential of adverse effect of his
product.