Journal of Natural Fibers

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Microwave Assisted Modulation of Vat Dyeing

of Cellulosic Fiber: Improvement in Color
Characteristics

S. Adeel, M. Saeed, A. Abdullah, F. Rehman, M. Salman, M. Kamran, M. Zuber

& M. Iqbal

To cite this article: S. Adeel, M. Saeed, A. Abdullah, F. Rehman, M. Salman, M. Kamran,

M. Zuber & M. Iqbal (2018) Microwave Assisted Modulation of Vat Dyeing of Cellulosic
Fiber: Improvement in Color Characteristics, Journal of Natural Fibers, 15:4, 517-526, DOI:
10.1080/15440478.2017.1349018

To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2017.1349018

Published online: 01 Sep 2017.

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JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS
2018, VOL. 15, NO. 4, 517–526
https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2017.1349018

Microwave Assisted Modulation of Vat Dyeing of Cellulosic Fiber:

Improvement in Color Characteristics
S. Adeela, M. Saeed a
, A. Abdullaha, F. Rehmanb, M. Salmanb, M. Kamranb, M. Zuberb,
and M. Iqbalc
a
Department of Chemistry, Government College University Faisalabad, Faisalabad, Pakistan; bDepartment of Applied
Chemistry & Biochemistry, Government College University Faisalabad, Faisalabad, Pakistan; cDepartment of
Chemistry, The University of Lahore, Lahore, Pakistan

ABSTRACT KEYWORDS
The role of radiations in textile processing is gaining attention due to its low cost, colorfastness; cotton;
energy effectiveness and eco-friendly process. This study is concerned with the irradiation; microwave;
improvement in modulation of microwave assisted vat dyeing of cellulosic fiber. spectra flash sf 600; vat dyes
It was found that radiation treatment of both cotton fabric and dye solution for 关键词
1 min gives good color strength, while for redox reaction, 2.5 g of NaHSO3, 2 mL 色牢度; 棉花; 辐射; 微波;
of CH3COOH, and 1.5 mL of H2O2 are the optimized conditions which show it is a 光谱闪光SF 600; 还原染料
cost-effective tool. Good color strength was obtained at 65 °C for 1 h dyeing
using 50 mL of optimal solution in dye bath at pH 9. Finally, ISO standards for
color fastness to light, washing, rubbing and perspiration were applied at 0.5–
2.5% of shade at optimal conditions which showed that microwave treatment
has enhanced the color characteristics. Hence, the technique can successfully
and easily be employed for surface modification of fabric for good quality dyeing
with various classes of dyes.

摘要
辐射在纺织加工中的作用越来越受到重视，因为它的低成本，能源效率
和环境友好的过程。本文研究了微波辅助纤维素纤维还原染色的工艺改
进。结果发现，1分钟是棉质织物和染料溶液放射治疗提供了良好的色彩
强度，而氧化还原反应、2.5g NaHSO3，2ml CH3COOH，和1.5mL,H2O2的
条件优化，表明它是一个具有成本效益的工具。在pH为9的染液中，用
50ml的最佳溶液在1h染色时，获得了良好的着色强度。最后，在最佳条
件下，在0.5～2.5%的色光条件下，对色光、洗涤、摩擦、汗渍等色牢度
进行了ISO标准处理，表明微波处理提高了颜色特征。因此，该技术可以
成功地、方便地用于织物的表面改性，用于各种染料的优质染色。

Introduction
The enhancement of color characteristics of the fabric has always been remained a topic of great interest in
textile dyeing. A number of techniques were developed over the years for textile waste treatment (Salazar
and Ureta-Zanartu 2012; Sivakumar et al. 2014) as well as to textile dyeing in terms of color fastness and dye
uptake-ability of fabric (Adeel et al. 2017) including mercerization (Thakur et al. 2014), bio-treatment
(Fakin et al. 2006; Shafie et al. 2009; Wavhal and Balasubramanya 2011), ultrasonic treatment and chitosan
treatments (Dev et al. 2009; Kamel et al. 2005).Moreover, the exposure of different radiations such as
microwave (Kamel et al. 2005) ultraviolet (Sinha et al. 2013) and gamma ray treatment can impart better
shades and color fastness properties to the fabric by modifying the surface of the fabric (Bhatti et al. 2014;
Adeel et al. 2015; Usman et al. 2016). Previously, it was found that microwave treatment enhances the

CONTACT S. Adeel shahidadeelchemist@gmail.com Department of Chemistry, Government College University Faisalabad,

Kotwali Rd, Faisalabad 38000, Pakistan.
© 2018 Taylor & Francis
518 S. ADEEL ET AL.

extraction of dye from the natural which also offers deep color to the fabric (Kamel et al. 2005). Microwave
can evenly and efficiently penetrate in to a medium and uniformly heat the substance (Kale and Bhat 2011;
Khan et al. 2014). During microwave treatment, polar groups of the exposed medium are activated which
results into the production of heat. The previous studies have shown that the micro fibrils of cellulose do not
change significantly after microwave treatment (Xue and Jin-Xin 2011) however; the physical properties of
the fabric such as wrinkling behavior and tensile strength were much improved. The overall popularity of
radiation treatment in textile industry is due to rapid, economical and environment friendly procedure
(Hashem et al. 2014; Rehman et al. 2017). Furthermore, the dyeing of irradiatedfabric was found to be
energy efficient because a better color strength can be achieved at low temperature with most classes of dyes
(Bhatti et al. 2016; Sinha et al. 2013). Keeping in view such effects of microwave, this study has been
conducted to improve the color characteristics of the fabric using Vat Blue 4.
Vat dyes are known to produce comparatively dull shades with good fastness properties on washing and
chlorine bleaching (Ferrero and Periolatto 2011). They are water insoluble polycyclic aromatic compounds
containing quinone groups. Vat dyes are made water soluble by their reduction with an alkali and reducing
agent before application to cellulosic fiber (Kulandainathan et al. 2007; Wakoh et al. 2015). The reduced dye
can penetrate in to the fabric and reoxidize to produce original water insoluble dye which is retained by the
fabric (Kim et al. 2014; Shim et al. 2006). These dyes also find wide spread application in military uniforms
due to fastness properties, earth like shades and near infrared camouflage (Shim et al. 2006). Consequently,
vat dyes hold a major portion of dye market for the dyeing of cellulosic fabric.
The most abundant natural and biodegradablecellulosic fabric is cotton which is formed by the repeated
units of β-1,4-D-glucopyranosedue to 1,4-glucodic bonds (Roessler and Jin 2003). Cotton has excellent
feathers of color retention, comfort and easy washing. It is most suitable to bind with different classes of dyes
due to the presence of hydroxyl groups in its structure (Mohsin et al. 2013; Wojnárovits et al. 2010).
In this study, the effect of microwave treatment on the fabric uptakeability was investigated via
observing color strengths and fastness characteristics using Vat Blue 4. Vat Blue 4 commonly known
as Indanthrone Blue has a fine metallic luster and good tinctorial strength (structure given below;
www.worlddyevariety.com/vat-dyes/vat-blue-4.html). The economical, time effective, and eco-
friendly method was employed for the improvement of a color strength, colorfastness and dye
exhaustion by microwave irradiationsat various powers and time duration.

Vat Blue 4

Experimental
Sample preparation and irradiation
Vat Blue 4 was obtained from Harris Dyes and Chemicals Faisalabad, Pakistan. Plain weaved,
bleached and mercerized cotton was provided by Noor Fatima Textile (Pvt.) Faisalabad, Pakistan.
Both cotton and dye solutions (1%) were irradiated for 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, and 5 min using a
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 519

commercial microwave oven (Model Orient; Voltage: 230 V; Rated Frequency: 50 Hz; Microwave
Frequency: 2450 MHz). The material to liquor ratio was kept at 1:50 (for 1 g fabric, 50 mL of dye
solution (1%) is used) for dyeing at 65 °C for 1 h after irradiation. For conventional dyeing, exhaust
method was used to dye unirradiated fabric (NRC) at 60 ºC for 1 h keeping M: L of 1: 50 (using 1%
of unirradiated dye solution (NRS) for 1 g fabric).

Optimization of redox conditions for vat dyeing

For vat dyeing the reduction condition were optimized at 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, and 3 g of NaHSO3 under
alkaline condition. After dyeing, the oxidation of dye was carried out at various concentrations of
hydrogen peroxide and acetic acid including 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, and 3 mL. All redox reactions were
performed at material to liquor ratio of 1:50 by dyeing the optimal irradiated cotton fabric (RC,
1 min) using 1% of optimal irradiated dye solution (RS, 1 min) at 65 °C for 1 h (Bhatti et al. 2014).

Optimization of coloring conditions

The effect of microwave irradiation was investigated by optimizing different parameters for dyeing
such as time, temperature, pH and material to liquor ratio. The dyeing temperature was optimized
between 35 and 85 °C with an increase of 5 °C in each experiment. The dyeing was performed for
different time internals including 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, and 70 min. In order to find suitable pH of dye
bath, dye solutions of various pH (5–12) were employed. Finally, material to liquor ratio of the dye
was also optimized by using a range of 1:10, 1:20, 1:30, 1:40, 1:50, and 1:60.

Evaluation of quality characteristics of dyed fabric

In this study, the color strength of unirradiated (NRC) and irradiated fabric (RC) dyed with un-irradiated
(NRS) and irradiated (RS) Vat Blue 4 was investigated using Kulbeka Munk equation computed in
spectra flash SF 600 with Illuminant D65, 10°, observer at Department of Chemistry, Government
College University Faisalabad, Pakistan. In order to assess the effect of microwave irradiation on
colorfastness, different ISO methods such as ISO 105 BO2 for light using fadometer, ISO 105 CO3 for
washing using rota wash, ISO 105 X12 for rubbing fastness using crockmetre and ISO 105 EO4 for
perspiration using perspiro meter at Noor Fatima Textile (Pvt) Faisalabad, Pakistan were employed.

Results and discussion

Microwave radiation has played a great role in improving dye uptake ability of cotton fabric because it is safe
and noncontact heating source. The data displayed in Figure 1 show that microwave treatment for 1 min to
both dye solution (RS) and cotton fabric (RC) gives good color strength. This is because the surface of the
cotton fabric was evenly modified while heating for 1 min due to which the interaction between dye
molecule and fabric become more significant. The microwave treatment of dye molecules may result in
activation of dye molecules which also make significant sorption of dye onto cotton fabric. Above optimal
time (1 min) the low color strength was observed, which might be due hydrolytic degradation of Vat Blue 4
dye, moreover, the long radiation exposure time may weaken the cellulose fibers (Kamel et al. 2007; Christie
2001). Thus the low color strength was observed via spectra flash SF 600 using Kulbeka Munk equation
which shows the less retention of dye. Hence, good color strengths and better fastness properties were
obtained by dyeing irradiated cotton fabric (RC, 1 min) using irradiated dye solution (RS, 1 min).
The data displayed in Figure 2(a, b, and c) shows that microwave treatment has reduced the amount of
NaHSO3, volume of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and acetic acid (CH3COOH), respectively. A small amount
of NaHSO3 causes less reduction of dye, while high amount may harm the dyeing process due to over
reduction (Hashem et al. 2014). Furthermore, the elevated amount of NaHSO3 may disturb the equilibrium
and favor desorption. However, microwave treatment causes the rapid conversion of keto substituted
colorant (water insoluble) in to water soluble enolate compound (leuco form) by reduction which is more
substantive as well as absorbable onto cellulose (Process given below). Hence, 2.5 g is the optimal amount of
520 S. ADEEL ET AL.

Figure 1. Effect of microwave radiation time on color strength of cotton using Vat Blue 4.

Figure 2. (a) Effect of NaHSO3 on color strength of irradiated cotton (RC) using Vat Blue 4. (b) Effect of H2O2 (mL) on color strength
of irradiated cotton (RC) using Vat Blue 4. (c) Effect of CH3COOH (mL) on color strength of irradiated cotton (RC) using Vat Blue 4.

NaHSO3 Figure 2a) that was used to achieve better sorption of dye and leveled reduction process at material
to liquor ratio of 1:30. The role of acetic acid (CH3COOH) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) was to convert
leuco form of dye to its original form onto fabric. The excess of both oxidants may weaken the bonding
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 521

between dye molecules and cellulosic chains due to which low color strength is observed (Bhatti et al. 2014).
Hence, for achieving a stable oxidation process, 1.5 mL of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and 2 mL of acetic acid
(CH3COOH) was the optimal amountas shown in Figure 2(b and c). A smaller requirement of redox agents
shows that the microwave treatment is cost effective tool.
The gradual rise in temperature during vat dyeing accelerates the dye molecules for diffusion. Dye
molecules have low kinetic energy at low temperature to penetrate; therefore, initially rate of dyeing
becomes slow. At 65 °C, maximum color strength was found (Figure 3). Above optimal value the rate
of desorption or stripping become more than the rate of dyeing due to degradation as well as
disturbance of dye bath equilibrium at higher temperature (Karmakar 2007; Clark 2011a) and low

O HN

NH O

Reduction NaHSO3

ONa

ONa HN

NH ONa

ONa

Oxidation H2O2 /CH3COOH

O HN

NH O

O
522 S. ADEEL ET AL.

Figure 3. Effect of temperature on color strength of irradiated cotton using Vat Blue 4.

color strength is observed in spectra flash. Hence 65 °C is the optimal dyeing temperature for
achieving good color strength.
Figure 4 indicates that 60 min is the optimum dyeing time using irradiated solution of Vat
Blue 4 for dyeing irradiated fabric. Dyeing for less time do provide enough opportunity to dye
molecules for maximum sorption while dyeing for long time favors desorption process (Clark
2011a). Long time heating may disturb dyeing equilibrium as well as sorption of dye due to
which low color strength is observed. Hence 60 min as contact time is recommended for vat
dyeing using irradiated dye solution onto irradiated fabric (RS/RC) for 1 min.
Dyeing pH is one of the important factors in vat dyeing of irradiated fabric using irradiated dye
solution. Data given in Figure 5 show that the basic medium (pH 9) is favorable for vat dyeing. At
mild acidic as well as neutral to mild alkaline pH, the tautomer conversion may be slow due to which
the colorant gets less chance to interact firmly on to surface modified fabric (RC). Consequently, low
color strength is observed. While at pH 9 the enol form may exist, which helps more promisingly to

Figure 4. Effect of time on color strength of irradiated cotton using Vat Blue 4.
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 523

binding with surface modified fabric. As a result, upon washing less color is stripped and good color
strength is observed by spectra flash SF600. But high alkaline medium causes clusters of dye
molecules to sorb on to fabric in aggregates that after washing, the dye is stripped of. After
investigation in spectraflash, low colour strength is observed. Hence pH of dyeing bath at 9 has
given good color strength.
The processing effect of microwave treatment on volume of irradiated dye solution was also
observed (Figure 6). It was found that the color strength of fabric gradually increased up to 50 mL of
irradiated solution and then began to decrease. Low value of dye solution caused less sorption of dye
onto the surface of modified fabric, whereas high value of dye solution caused unevenness due to
over aggregation (Rouetee 2002; Shenai 1992). Hence, leveled dyeing and acceptable fastness was
obtained by employing optimal volume (50 mL) of irradiated dye solution (RS) onto irradiated
fabric (RC).
The rating of color fastness properties is given in the Table 1. Microwave treatment has
improved the fastness properties when irradiated fabrics were dyed using irradiated solution
of 1–2.5% of Vat Blue 4 at optimal conditions. Good fastness is due to presence of stable
electronic arrangement in chromophoric region of Vat Blue 4 dye which has given stability
after exposure to microwave irradiations. Similarly, excellent wash fastness was obtained due
to aqueous insolubility and large size of dye molecules. Washing process is necessary for the
removal of hydrolyzed, unfixed dye and dyeing auxiliaries (Burkinshaw et al. 2011; Kim, Kim,
and Lee 2014).The presence of ring and conjugation also played a role in improving perspira-
tion fastness. Hence surface modification by microwave treatment has made dyeing behavior
of cellulosic fabric more significant in such a way that after dyeing upon exposure to color
fastness agents less fading of shades is observed using ISO standard methods. Good rubbing
fastness is attributed to the firm bonding between the irradiated fabrics and dye that upon
crocking show excellent resistance to detach. The choice of dye, its molecular size as well as
the surface modification of fabric and complete development process during vat dyeing (redox
reaction) also adds more value in rating the fastness (Bhatti et al. 2014). Thus microwaves
being clean, uniform and noncontact heating source, has improved the color characteristics of
the fabric which is the main objective of the current study.

Figure 5. Effect of pH on color strength of irradiated cotton using Vat Blue 4.

524 S. ADEEL ET AL.

Figure 6. Effect of volume of dye bath on colour strength using Vat Blue 4.

Conclusions
Microwave treatment is an impressive technique for the vat dyeing of cellulosic fabric. The irradiation of
both fabric and dye solution for just 1 min has enhanced the dye uptake ability of the fabric and a better
color strength was obtained at 65 °C for 1 h, while keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:50 in a dye
solution of pH 9. The optimal redox conditions for vat dyeing after irradiations were found with low
concentration of NaHSO3 (2.5 g), CH3COOH (2 mL), and H2O2 (1.5 mL) indicating the cost effective-
ness of the method. The rating evaluation of light, washing rubbing and perspiration fastness have shown
that the colorfastness of the dyed fabrics was improved. Hence, microwave treatment has improved the
color characteristic of the fabric after vat dyeing and the technique can be applied for the other dyes.

Acknowledgments
We are also thankful to Mr. Zafar Iqbal Manger QA & QC of Noor Fatima Textile (Pvt.) Limited, Faisalabad Pakistan
and Mr. Muhammad Abbas Director Harris Dyes and Chemical (Pvt.) Limited, Faisalabad for providing the technical
assistance and implementation of the work at industrial scale.

Funding

Table 1. Effects of microwave irradiation on colorfastness properties of fabric dyed at optimum conditions using Vat Blue 4.
Perspiration fastness
Shades (%) Wash fastness Light fastness Acid Alkaline Dry rubbing fastness Wet rubbing fastness
0.5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5
1 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5
1.5 3 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5
2 3–4 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5
2.5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 525

We are grateful to Higher Education Commission of Pakistan (HEC) for funding the project (No. 20-2724/NRPU/
R&D/HEC/12/6828).

ORCID
M. Saeed http://orcid.org/0000-0002-8759-6948

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