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recuperated
Written by
Jancis Robinson
16 Jun 2016

Catalan grape varieties recuperated

See also Biodiversity via classified ads.

Miguel A Torres' son Miguel Torres Maczassek came over to London in late April and,
in the library of 67 Pall Mall, showed me the exciting first results of a painstaking
research programme initiated by his father 30 years ago. The aim was to rediscover
old Catalan vine varieties that might be suitable for making wine in the future. I will
outline more of the rationale and mechanics on Saturday. 

He showed me a total of 10 wines in the order below, including the first proper
vinifications of five recently recuperated varieties – white Forcada, plus Pirene,
Moneo, Gonfaus and Querol reds – a varietal version of Garró, one of the first local
varieties that they found, way back in 1990, a varietal Priorat version of Garnacha
Peluda/Lladoner Pelut, the unreleased 2013 version of their groundbreaking Pinot
Noir from coastal southern Chile, the second vintage of their Costers del Segre
Purgatori, and the latest vintage, 2010, of their Catalan blend Grans Muralles. 

Of these, the only wines in commercial circulation at the time of writing are the last
two, Purgatori apparently available in Ireland and Germany from €25 a bottle and
the Grans Muralles 2010 just released in Spain at over €100 a bottle. Only a very
few thousand bottles of the Catalan varietals were made, the 2015s bottled in
February, and they will be kept as library samples. I have, perhaps incorrectly,
assigned the general DO Penedès to all these new old Catalan varieties, even
though a couple of them, Garró and Querol, are actually planted in the Muralles
vineyard in the Conca Barberà DO. And Gonfaus, pictured above, is currently
planted in Costers del Segre.
Official recognition of them from the Spanish authorities has yet to be received. It
takes five to six years to have a variety approved in Spain. They are hoping to get
approval for Forcada, Querol, Moneu and Gonfaus from the Ministry of Agriculture
by this coming autumn, and then approval from the Catalan authorities perhaps a
year after that (such patience is required!). The exception is Pirene, approval for
which has been delayed by a couple of years or so because of the time it took to
eliminate viruses. Pirene may not be officially approved before 2018, which is a
shame for a grape variety which makes wines that are so expressive in youth.

Note that all the total acidities below are in tartaric. Those of the 'ancestral
varieties' seem relatively high because this seems to be a characteristic of several
of these varieties, because some of them are grown in a continental climate such as
that of Arranyó, and because they have not been cold stabilised nor benefited from
any bottle age.

What fascinated me about them was the strong individual character of each of
these varieties, suggesting that an equally rewarding recuperation programme
could be undertaken in many a wine region – by anyone with the tenacity of a
Torres.

Torres Forcada 2015 Penedès

First vintage. Torres have just 2.69 ha of this, planted near the high-altitude (500 m)
site near Montserrat that yields both Fransola Sauvignon Blanc and, nearby, Mas
Borras Pinot Noir. The blossomy nose is on a spectrum between peachy and leafy.
This wine has great acidity (TA is 8 g/l; no malolactic conversion) and great
structure. This ripens a full month after Chardonnay, in early October. Good extract.
This is a fine if quite tart dry white but I could well imagine it working well as a base
wine for sparkling wine. 

13.5%
Drink
2016
–
2019
16.5 +

Torres Pirene 2015 Penedès

2.16 ha grown in the very high-altitude (950 m) San Miquel de Tremp vineyard
where white wine grapes also work well. Torres tried Pirene at lower elevations but
the results were 'a bit much'. This variety is found in northern Catalunya and ripens
as early as Merlot. This was by far the most forward of the new old Catalan varietal
samples and was already very expressive and alluring. Bright crimson with floral,
round redcurrant fruit. Very direct and fruity, fragrant and lightly bitter on the finish,
this reminded me a little of Mencía. It gives the impression of being a little soft
although the TA is 7 g/l. The appeal is mainly on the nose and front palate and it
fades a little fast so maybe it would make a good component in a blend?

14.5%
Drink
2016
–
2018
16

Torres Garró 2014 Penedès

This comes from a planting of 4.39 ha Torres have in the 32-ha Muralles vineyard in
Conca de Barberà south of Vilafranca del Penedès. It was originally found in the
Garraf area by the coast (hence the name) but works better on the slate soils of
Muralles. It has been a freshening component in the Grans Muralles blend since its
inception in 1996. Picked on 16 October and aged in new oak barrels. Spicy and rich
nose. Very mellow flavours are followed up by good, fresh acidity (7.9 g/l). Very
polished tannins and lots of character. Damson flavours and slightly dusty finish.
2014 was a relatively cool vintage. Very appetising.

12.9%
Drink
2016
–
2021
16.5

Torres Moneu 2015 Penedès

From 4.5 ha in Los Desterrados vineyard in Arranyó in inland Lerida where the
climate is notably continental and dry. In 2016 Torres plan to plant some Moneu
close to the Mas La Plana vineyard. Dark purplish crimson. With its confident tannic
structure, it reminds me somewhat of an Italian variety – Aglianico? Intensely
powerful nose and a sweet start to the palate before giving way to lots of tannin
and acidity (TA 8.9 g/l). Grippy and zippy. Needs age. Not a charmer.  Good blender
with Pirene? 

14.7%
Drink
2018
–
2025
16 ++

Torres Gonfaus 2015 Penedès

Torres grow 4.7 ha of this small-berried vine in Los Desterrados vineyard at Arranyó
with its distinctly continental climate. Harvest was 21 September and total acidity
was 7 g/l. Very dark crimson. Very characterful wine with a hint of cheesiness on the
nose before a flatteringly soft, round, voluptuous fruit with a hint of orange peel.
Very direct and well balanced with great persistence. Chewy finish and substantial
body. Youthful. 

14.6%
Drink
2017
–
2021
17
Torres Garnatxa Peluda 2014 Priorat

This is the Catalan name of the variety known as Garnacha Peluda elsewhere in
Spain and Lledoner Pelut in France. Grown in Torroja del Priorat and picked on 3
September 2014 from a difficult vintage. Aged for 13 months in used oak barrels. TA
7.15 g/l. Mid crimson. Settled and somehow very evolved and 'comfortable' on the
nose. Strong liquorice notes and lots of sweetness and body with some dryness and
dustiness on the end. Could blend well with regular Garnacha?

15%
Drink
2017
–
2021
16.5

Torres Querol 2015 Penedès

Torres have just 1.74 ha of this powerful variety, planted in their Muralles vineyard
in Conca de Barbera. It has been a component in their Grans Muralles blend since
2009. It was picked on 22 September and TA is 7.3 g/l. Very dark purplish black with
a strong elderberry smell and lots of round fruit and bite. It gives the impression of
being so wild and gamey – not to mention tannic – that I would have thought this
would be much better blended than as a varietal wine. 

15.2%
Drink
2018
–
2024
16 +

Miguel Torres, Escaleras de Empedrado Pinot

Noir 2013 Empedrado

Chile's first Pinot Noir grown on fast-draining slate terraces of Priorat-like llicorella in
southern Chile 20 km from the Pacific. Average annual rainfall 850 mm. Vines
(clones 667 with a little 777) were grafted over from Garnacha and Cariñena (that
wouldn't ripen) in 2005 at 250 to 500 m and were picked on 24 April. Skin contact
for five days and a seven-day fermentation. Aged for seven months in a mix of new
and used barriques. TA is 5.8 g/l. The 2013 vintage was cooler and drier than usual.
I was very impressed by the debut, 2012 vintage of this wine. Bright cherry red.
Quite vegy and a little reduced on the nose. The slate still dominated the fruit. I
think they have decided not to release the wine for a little while. This vintage is
likely to be less charming and pretty than the 2012.

13.8%
Drink
2017
–
2020
16

Torres, Purgatori 2013 Costers del Segre

This is in the driest, southernmost of the three Costers del Segre zones (the other
two being Raimat and Tremp) with average annual rainfall of just 344 mm. Named
after a fortified farmhouse near Montserrat that was a place of punishment. First
vintage of this blend of Garnacha, Cariñena and Syrah planted in 2000 and 2001
was 2012. Malolactic in barrel and aged for 15-18 months in 40% new French oak
barrels. Very deep crimson. Round, bright fruit with the individual components
nicely integrated and admirable freshness. TA 5.4 g/l. Excellent balance. 

14.5%
Drink
2016
–
2021
16.5

Torres, Grans Muralles 2010 Conca de Barberà

This 11th (rather cold) vintage of this blend was released May 2016 after nearly four
years in bottle and is the second one to include some Querol as well as Garnacha,
Monastrell, Cariñena and Garró. This is relatively high alcohol and has a total acidity
of 5.8 g/l. The vineyard is 32 ha in total on shallow, rocky soil with limited water-
holding capacity and layers of slate gravel beds and granite. Average rainfall is 637
mm and harvest is usually mid September to mid October. Aged in new  French oak
for 19 months. Very dark purple. Rich spicy nose with both blackberry and liquorice
notes. Dusty, dry, complex finish. Blackberry compote is the overriding impression
but there is very good acidity and well managed tannin.  

15%
Drink
2016
–
2028
17.5

Torres, Grans Muralles 2009 Conca de Barberà

Very concentrated with marked tannins and a suggestion of both herbs and balsam.
Quite complex. Needed aeration. Very firm and with some tannin still present. As
though some of the local llicorella stone had been pulverised into it. No shortage of
personality!

15%
Drink
2017
–
2027
17 +