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Cartoon Clothes Formulas
If you’re embarrassed
May 9, 2018 in Intermediate, Lvl 1 because you can’t draw
a straight line or even a
Cartoon Clothes Formulas good stick figure. If you
WANT to know how to
draw but don’t know
where to begin — you’ve
come to the right place.
19 year industry
professional animator
and storyboard artist
Luis Escobar will teach
We've learned formulas for every body part,
you what you need to
know as if you’re where
learning Kung Fu. Only
you’ll be learning to
draw.
There's a lot to this topic and I'm not even telling you all of it. Just enough to get your
cartoons to look right. So let's get to it.
The simples folds in cartoons can be done with bumps in just the right spots. It's not too
difficult and early comic strip cartoons used them all the time. If you don't want to get
into anything complicated, this is the way to go:
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When cloth hangs off a support point and simply gets pulled down by gravity, we get pipe Blogroll
folds. Pipe folds are cylindrically shaped folds, similar to a pipe.
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Evan Lewis' Story
From beneath, they often create multiple half pipes attached together. They look like this: Portfolio
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Spiral folds
Spiral folds are simple to understand as well. In fact, the bumps used to create simple
cartoon folds as explained above are more often than not, spiral folds.
Spiral folds are simply small cylinders that wrap around a body part like a spiral. They
occur, mostly, when tight or form fitting cloth bunches up.
TOP
They're ideal for defining the direction of the body part underneath the cloth.
This is when things start getting a tad tricky. Half locks are folds that are created when
two sections of the same piece of cloth interlock. There are two types. A single half lock
and a double half lock.
The single half occurs when one part of the cloth goes into another.
The double occurs when to parts of the cloth come together and the cloth inverts and
pushes out against itself:
This is extremely common. It happens in pant legs and shirt sleeves anytime they bend.
TOP
This means this type of fold comes up a lot. So learn to draw it. It will immediately make
your clothed cartoons look more natural.
I find zig zag folds to the the trickiest of all the folds. They're sometimes made up of Pipe
folds that are bunched up:
Bottom of pants legs and shirt sleeves are where you tend to see them.
Now that you know some fold types to use, the tricky part is finding out how thick they
should be and where best to put them. The answer comes when you think about gravity,
material of the fabric and points of origin.
Fabric Types
TOP
But you can still simplify the amount. Less is often more.
The origin of the fold is extremely important. They tell you where the folds ought to be
placed. Pinch points and support points tell you what you need to know.
Support Points
Support points or anchor points have to do with gravity. Any loose cloth is draped,
supported or anchored up from somewhere. Once you pin point those places you can
then create the folds which are created from those points:
Pinch Points
However, people tend to move around. We bend and twist. This causes our clothes to
pinch up in places. These pinch points cause folds to happen, BUT they almost always
point to a support, or anchor point:
Yeah, so far, that's a lot to keep track of. Well, there's one more very important thing that
you need to be aware of as well when doing folds on clothes. They work best when the
folds reinforce the form they are covering or are draped over.
TOP
Remember how I talked about the arm and leg direction and keeping it consistent and
clear? Part of the way you do it is with folds:
This is in spite of the fact that, in reality, folds sometimes go AGAINST the direction of
the form beneath. This is where we take artistic license and h adjust things so that we
don't confuse anyone looking at our drawing.
If you're saying to yourself, "okay, that's a lot but I think I understand, but my problem is,
when I draw clothes on my characters, they look generic and often uninspired. How do I
know what clothes to give my characters?"
It's simple, look around you. People are wearing clothes all around. Look online, search
for the type of clothes you may want to have your characters wear.
If it's historical, fantasy or science fiction, then you look online for reference for that as
well. Anything fantastical or from a science fiction background should be some
amalgam of contemporary and historical clothing anyway.
That way, it has an element of truth to it. That's what designer for movie and tv show do.
When speaking of folds in cartoons, simplicity is the name of the game. The overarching
theme in all these styles is how they simplify the folds.
TOP
Freddy Moore
Freddy Moore style, out of these three styles has the most balanced amount of simple
folds. Not too much so that it's representational but not so simple that the folds are still
there.
This makes it so that balancing the amount of folds can be tricky but they also look just
right when you nail it:
TOP
Turnarounds
TOP
Bruce Timm
Bruce Timm Style folds fluctuate a lot. Sometimes they're so minimal that they practically
don't exist, while other times they can be quite elaborate. It really depends on the type of
drawing you're making and how simple you want to go with it.
In the examples below, I show you how folds can be drawn in the style in case you
actually want to see them:
The turnarounds below, basically have no folds at all. This is, more often than not, the
default folds of this style...
Turnarounds
TOP
Takahiro Kimura Anime Style
Kimura style is by far the most elaborate. It really tries as best as it can to be
representational when it comes to folds. Still, there is some level of simplification to this
style:
TOP
Turnarounds
TOP
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parts of the body when it come to drawing. It's not that they aren't important, it's just that
they aren't very "glamours." Also, most of the time they're covered up completely by shoes
so we don't even get to draw them as much as everything else.
Still, we should know what's going on inside the shoes. And women often were shoes
that expose their feet so, we still need to know how to draw them.
In this lesson, we'll do just that. I'll share with you the three part formula that helps me
draw feet, plus more. In this lesson we'll go over:
For the most part, in it's simples form, as long a your cartoon feet drawings are made
from shapes with a flat bottom surface and some sort of incline leading down to the
toes, you should be okay. For example:
That's all there is too it. However, if you want to get a little bit more naturalistic, then you
may want to try this formula...
The first thing you need to do when drawing the foot is to have a base shape to create the
rest of the foot on. A foot can be broken down into two simple flat graphic shapes.
The foot from the side can be drawn as a triangle, and the foot from the from can be
drawn as a modified box with a connecting bottom triangle.
The triangle favors one side more than the other. The inside part of the foot will have the
shorter angle.
Once you've got that down, you've got a foundation on which to create your more solid
forms, of which there are five parts.
Main larges form that take up most of the foot is an oddly shaped tube. It look something
like this:
TOP
It's like half an arch. Or even half a cave, because one side has the arch while the other
goes down to the floor.
The Heel
When you add the heel, it goes right into the cave as if it's a pillar of support. But there's
an area of space still left:
The area where you will put in the toes is shaped like half a disk that wraps around the
front of the main cylinder. It assumes the a softer version of shape of the triangular lay
in. One side is a little shallower than the rest.
Ankles
Although this is essential the main foot formula, there's on thing I should bring and that's
how you connect the leg to the foot, namely the ankles.
You can think of the ankles as a hinge with really large bolts sticking out from either side.
You attach the curve of the main body of the foot to the ankles. TOP
However, there's something you need to be aware of with this "ankle hinge." when looking
at it from the front or back you will see that it doesn't line up. One side is higher than the
other. The inner "bolt," is higher than the outer.
Making sure to draw the ankles that way, will make your feet look more natural.
Toes
Once you have the general foot forms drawn out, you can start adding toes. A helpful way
to draw toes is not just to draw them like balls or boxes but to draw them like steps.
Step like this. First you step is a shape like this. Kinda like wienie shape with a flat top.:
Then you create a step. It's not a perfect step, there's a slant to it and it's shallow:
From here you can add the toes nails the details: TOP
You can do this with all the toes, just making each toe small as you go.
Now there's something I should note. (1) Say you're looking a the foot from the top:
(2) just like drawing fingers on the hand, you should place them in an arch.
(3) The other thing to keep in mind is that the toes look best then they turn inward toward
each other. So the big toe slants toward the little toes, and the little toes slant toward the
big toe.
Keeping these things in mind as you draw feet will really help make your feet drawing
"feel" right.
So when you're all done you end up with something that looks like this:
Now it's time to show you how this formula can be applied to our three goto styles.
When doing my homework on most of these styles, I found that feet where almost
afterthoughts. Very rarely where feet more than just a shape with some lines for toes.
Sometimes they didn't even bother with the lines for toes.
TOP
That said, there are a few exceptions, like moments where the feet are the focus of a
shot, or when a character is barefoot as part of his design, like Disney's Tarzan. And
speaking of Disney characters lets start with...
In the cases where a Disney and Looney Tunes character's feet are more than just a
graphic shape, the design of the feet tend to be very simple. Except for Disney's Tarzan,
as I mentioned before. His feet are extremely well designed, anatomically accurate but
still cartoony and exaggerated.
Caricatured foot. This version of the foot has the most anatomy:
Male
Female
The Bruce Timm style feet are even more simple. Hardly any detail at all:
TOP
Turnarounds
Male
Female
Turnarounds
Male
Female
And that's it for the feet. I hope you can see that feet aren't too difficult to draw in
cartoons. However, just because they can be drawn simply doesn't mean that you
shouldn't give them some thought and structure. TOP
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Arms and legs have a lot in common when it comes to drawing them. The thought
process behind drawing them are very similar. The biggest difference between the two
are the muscle masses.
Otherwise, the approach to both arms and legs have a lot of overlap as you will see.
Cartoon legs can be simply broken down to rubbery rectangles or long triangles. After
deciding the type of legs you will go with, you can then add dimension by making them
TOP
cones or tubes.
Depending on the type of legs you choose to draw, you can bend them like a hose or you
give can give them corners at the knees:
Of course putting straights versus curves is an appealing way to vary the type of line
work on when drawing them.
TOP
Experiment until you find a variation that you like. Especially with very simple cartoony
legs:
As is usually the case, it's only when you're going for a more naturalistic look that things
start getting more complicated...
Now I'll breakdown a very simple formula for drawing legs. It's essentially the same
formula for drawing arms. Just like with arms it's a straight or slightly tapered tube:
Just like with arms, when the legs bend you break up the tube into two slightly tapered
tube connected at the bending point.
Again, just like with arms, in order to make sure the legs have an organic feel, it's a good
rule of thumb to give the tube a very subtle curve of some sort. Either an slight “C” curve
or “S” curve.
TOP
Once you have this foundation, you can start adding solidity.
The next step in an out stretched leg is to draw a shape to indicate where the kneed is
located. I tend to draw an oval. I draw it, roughly, about half way between the top of the
leg and where the heel of the foot meets the ground. I'm usually not really precise about
this. I tend to "eyeball" it. In very cartoony characters this can be modified to any
proportion that suits your leg design.
TOP
Second, turn the two graphic lines into a cylinder by adding directional lines. These lines
show you the direction of the perspective of the leg you’re drawing. BE CONSISTENT. If
you’re indicating that the direction of the leg is going in one direction, it’s impossible for
you to see another part of the same leg going in the opposite direction, without it turning:
Once you have this foundation the rest comes down to your knowledge of human
anatomy.
I won't go into the anatomy here. You can study that on your own for now, but I can give
you a few tips.
As with arms, avoid symmetrical leg muscles. They tend to look very inorganic when
they’re symmetrical. Instead, interlock the asymmetrical muscles as we did with the
arms. In other words: Stagger the bumps:
TOP
And of course, you can't go wrong with designing Simple vs. Complex muscle groups:
Now let’s take a look at how this formula works in different styles…
The Freddy Moore style has two type of legs, the Disney Feature type legs and the Looney
Toons type legs:
1. The Disney feature type are far more naturalistic. Muscle symmetry is avoided. They
are simple, subtle and muscles are not overly defined.
2. Looney Tunes type legs are far more simple. They're mostly just slightly tapered tubes.
The exterior "C" curves are often more exaggerated than the interior.
TOP
Bruce Timm Style
Unlike the arms, The Bruce Timm lrgs are not quite “B” shaped, or at least they don't tend
to be in most views or in most characters. They are sometimes. More often then not
though, they look like this:
1. The upper leg can be "D" shaped tapering as it get's to the knee. Once you get to the
calves, they curve down on both sides. The curve on the exterior part of the leg being a
big bigger than the interior one.
TOP
Female legs tend to be wider in the upper thigh area then male legs as seen below:
The Kimura anime style legs are slightly more anatomical looking. It’s best when drawing
them to know leg anatomy.
TOP
1. Male legs tend to have more defined muscles then female legs in this style, which
makes them slightly harder to draw. But they tend to be simpler on the exterior part of
the leg than the interior.
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complicated as drawing heads and figures. There's a LOT to drawing hands. However,
you can get away with not going too in depth with hands when you're cartooning.
Depending on how cartoony you're drawing.
When it comes to basic cartoon hands, they can be drawn in just about any abstract way
that you can think of. As long as they can be clearly understood to represent hands.
Here's some fun crazy ways that you can have fun with hands:
If you want a bit more form to your cartoon hands, then you may want to try the formulas
below...
I could have called this "The Mitten Hands" because that's the core of what I'm going to
show you here but "Hand Burger and Sausage" made me laugh.
This is a very traditional form of drawing hands. It's really the way I drew hands for many
many years. It's really a very simple formula.
This method is straight out the Preston Blair's drawing book: Cartoon Animation.
The trick to giving these hands a feeling of dimension, is to think about these these
forms as if they are burgers patties and sausages. The palm area of the hand should be
thought of as a slightly flat disk shape similar to a fat burger patty:
TOP
And of course, the forms of the finger should be like cylinders with rounded ends like
sausages.
Boxy Hands
If you want the hands you draw to be a little less cartoony and a bit more natural, it's best
to get boxy. It's still helpful to first draw a mitten shape. But instead of drawing the palm
like a burger patty and the fingers like sausages, you turn the palm into a flat box and the
fingers like long boxes.
What this is doing is defining the hand shapes more clearly and giving it more depth:
This is helpful when drawing fingers because, if you notice, when you bend your fingers,
the top of the fingers seem very boxy. This makes your finger drawing more believable.
TOP
No, finger aren't boxes, but if you want them to look more natural, after you draw them
boxy, then simply round the corner on the bottom half. And there you go...
The thumb is a unique part of the hand. You have to draw it as if it's on a special hinge
on the palm cover in skin:
Finger Curves
Be aware that fingers aren't the same size. This may seem obvious but when drawing
hands in elaborate positions, this little awareness is one of the first things to go.
One of the reasons to draw a mitten shape is to force the size of the fingers to get
smaller on the ends. However, you also need to follow this same curve on the joints of all
the fingers and the top of the palm.
One thing you may not notice until you actually take a very close look is that the knuckles
and the top "webbing" of the palm don't line up:
TOP
The knuckles are located further down. They line up more with the top mid area of the
palm instead:
Why is this important? Because when you're drawing the back of the hand in any position,
you don't want to draw the knuckles too high up or you'll lose the padding of the upper
palm. Especially when you're drawing the hand bending:
TOP
Gesture
I've found that the easiest way to get expressive hands is to treat them exactly like a
micro figure drawing. Since the first thing we do when we figure drawing is do a gesture
drawing, I recommend doing a gesture drawing for the hand you're drawing first, then add
structure to it after.
This way you get the benefit of seeing if the hand is working before you commit to the
complexity of finish up the drawing:
Varying Fingers
Another finger drawing tip is to make sure to vary them up a bit. Don't draw every single
finger on a hand doing exactly the same thing. It looks unnatural:
TOP
You don't have to have them ALL doing something different, that doesn't always look
good either, just make one of two finger doing something a little different.
Just doing that make the fingers look much more natural.
By far, the most help thing you can do when drawing hands is to use your own hand as
reference. If you don't know what the hand is suppose to look like in a certain pose, pose
it out yourself. You can do this in front of a mirror, or you can simply look at it.
If you happen to need to look at the hand you draw with, then take a picture of it. It's that
simple:
Freddy Moore
With Freddy Moore style, you can do the classic "gloved hand" and all it variations simply
by using the "Burger and Sausage" approach:
1. First, gesture
2. Then you can add the structure
3. And then finish off the drawing.
It's a very standard cartoon hand. If you want it to be a tad more real you simply add the
fifth finger.
With the naturalistic version, you'll need be more boxy with your structure. Male hands
tend to be thicker, boxier and defined than female hands:
Male:
TOP
Female:
Bruce Timm
With this style, it's boxier still. But only with male hands. The hands are also simpler and
less detailed. Female hands are not depicted below since they are essentially identical to
Freddy Moore hands.
Male:
TOP
Female:
With the Kimura style, essentially the same as a naturalistic Freddy Moore style except
the finger nails are drawn in:
Male:
TOP
Female:
This is NOT a definitive lesson on hand drawing. It's just the beginning. There's a LOT
more to learn. This is just a some information to let you get started.
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hands are very expressive parts of a figure. We'll be tackling hands separately. In this
lesson we'll be focusing mainly on arms. TOP
Arms, for the most part are very simple to draw. It's when you want to get muscular that
things get complicated. Either way, drawing arms start off very simply.
In their most basic form, cartoon arms can be simply broken down to rubbery rectangles.
If you want to add more dimension to them you can make them tubes or rubber hoses.
When these types of arms bend you can leave have them curve like a hose or you give
them more of a corner. Depends on the style you're going for.
You can vary the type of lines that make them up. More often than not, putting straights
versus curves is an appealing way to draw them.
TOP
When creating arms for simple cartoon characters, simply experiment until you find a
variation that you like.
It's only when drawing cartoon characters that are bit more naturalistic that things get a
bit more complex. As we will see below...
Once you want your cartoon arm become more natural looking, it helps to have a simple
formula as a base for the different variations. Surprisingly, it's not very different from the
simple cartoon arms drawings above.
The most complicated cartoon arms can be broken down to a slightly tapered tube when
it's stretched out.
TOP
When it's not, you simply draw two slightly tapered tube connected at the bending point.
The real trick to it though is to not be mechanical about the way you draw the tube. A
good rule of thumb is to give the tube a very subtle curve of some sort. Either an slight
"C" curve or "S" curve. It gives an arm an organic feel from it's very foundation.
TOP
Once you have this foundation, you can start adding solidity.
First, you want to make sure to find where your the forearm ends and the upper arms
begins. An proportion rule of thumb is that from the top of the shoulder to the elbow, is
longer than the whole forearm. It's in fact as long as the forearm and the hand together,
if the hand was balled up to a fist. However you can modify this if you choose to design
any type of interesting arm. You're the draftsman.
TOP
Second, turn the two graphic lines into a cylinder by adding directional lines. These lines
show you the direction of the perspective you the arm you're drawing. BE CONSISTENT.
If you're indicating that the direction of the arm is going in one direction, it's impossible
for you to see an other part of the same arm going in the opposite direction, without it
turning:
The guides also help when putting details on the arm, like watches, sleeves or muscle
details. They help you see what direction to draw them in so they are consistent with
your established arm perspective:
TOP
Once you've go this down, you're pretty much done. The rest comes down to your
knowledge of human anatomy and muscles.
In case you don't know any of that, I will give you some tips.
As a general rule of thumb, avoid symmetrical arm muscles. Arm muscles tend to look
very inorganic when they're symmetrical. Symmetrical muscles sometimes look like
you're drawing a snow man rather than arms:
I'm NOT saying you should never draw them this way. There's a style of cartoon that
works really well with muscles that looks this way simply because they're very funny
looking. For cartoons like that, it's totally fine and very fun.
However, if you're trying for a more naturalistic organic look, this may not be the best
solution.
Arm muscles look far more natural when they rhythmically interlock and are
asymmetrical. Which leads me to another good rule of thumb when placing anatomical
bumps on an arm: Stagger the bumps:
TOP
Yet another way to go is designing, Simple vs. Complex muscle groups. Simplifying one
side and adding a bit more complexity on the other side, can add interest and often feels
natural and looks cool.
TOP
Now let's take a look at how this formula works in different styles...
As before I want to show you that this simple formula can be the foundation open which
any style can be used. So let me show you:
The Freddy Moore style has two types of arms. The Disney type arm and the Looney
Toons type arm.
The Disney type looks a similar to number 1 above. It looks very natural and muscle
symmetry is avoided. The lumps tend to be convex.
TOP
On the other hand the Looney Tunes arm, which is number 2 above, a bit more simple. It
often uses a concave line in the back of the upper arm. This isn't meant to represent any
real world muscles but rather, it's meant to add an interesting design aesthetic.
The Bruce Timm Arm is simply a "B" shaped arm. (1) A simple (gently curved) straight in
the front with two "C" curves in the back. There is some variation in the "C" curves.
These curves are meant to simplify and represent the complex muscles of the arms.
Male arms more often than not tend to be wider that female arms in this style but
otherwise, they are essentially the same.
Takahiro Kimura
TOP
The Kimura anime style arms are slightly simplified anatomical arms. It's best when
drawing these type of arms to know arm anatomy.
Male arms usually have more defined muscles then female arms in this style, which
makes them slightly harder to draw.
Again, take note that all the arms have the same base.
Below we have the turn arounds for male an female arms in all three of these styles:
TOP
Bruce Timm Style
TOP
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There's a lot to know about drawing heads. There's just as much to know about drawing
the body. By "body", I mean the torso and hips.
Cartoon bodies can be simplified so that you don't need to go as deep as you would with
the head although, for best results, it's good know how to draw a more realistic
anatomically correct body.
In this lesson I'll show you some simple body formulas you can use, and how some of
those formulas can be modified to draw some slightly more naturalistic looking body
shapes. We'll go over:
When it comes to cartoon body shapes, anything goes. Start with basic shapes: Squares,
TOP
Circles, Triangles. Pull them, push them, make them interesting:
Stick heads arms and legs off of them, and you've got a cartoon body. It's really dead
simple. If you want it too look more solid, add solidity. Give it form.:
If however, you want someone else's cartoon body type formulas, then read on.
By far, the most commonly used cartoon body shape is "The Bean." Another helpful shape
that I personally like to use is a modification of "The Bean," I'll call, "The Bullet." It's a
shape I learned from my favorite Figure Drawing teacher, Steve Huston. So let me explain
these shapes.
TOP
The Bean is exactly what it sounds like. It looks like a bean. It's made up of two spheres.
One on top, one on the bottom, separated by a small space, connected by lines on the
side. What you end up with is a modified cylinder of sorts. When it bends, it looks like a
bean. This shape is meant to represent the torso and hip area together.
The usefulness of The Bean comes from it's flexibility. It can be bent, stretched and
twisted easily. It can also be modified to create many different types of torso shapes. It's
a fairly standard shape for most traditional, western, animated cartoon characters, from
Mickey Mouse and his gang to the Looney Tunes characters.
And once you get used to the simple Bean made of two spheres, you can change those
shapes to cubes, cones, cylinders and wedges to make even more varied body shapes:
The Bullet is similar to the The Bean. However, it's just a tad more complicated. It's
made up of two shapes, a bullet shaped cylinder facing down, inserted into a soft
cornered box hip area. The idea is that the bottom round bullet part of the upper shape
immediately creates the shape of the abdominal muscles adding an anatomical feel to
your drawing from the start.
TOP
If The Bullet is difficult to grasp, you can first start with The Bean and once you have it the
way you want, you can convert it to The Bullet after, as you will see in a moment.
This shape is best used when drawing more naturalistic, anatomical cartoon characters
such as anime or action adventure characters. But it can also be use to supplement a
modified Bean shape to add more naturalism to an exaggerated cartoon shape:
When drawing either The Bean or The Bullet from the side view, don't forget to make sure
to the natural rhythms for the body to get a naturalistic convincing look to your
characters.
If you're going to add a bit of convincing naturalism to your cartoons, whether it's to add
some pecks or breasts, you'll want to have a simple chest formula to work with.
TOP
Here's how I approach the male chest area:
1. After deciding where to put the center of my torso, I find the area where I think the
shoulders will be. I do this by drawing a shoulder line near the top of the bullet shape. I
put a dot for the pit of the neck where the center line and the shoulder line connect. I
also add two line on the right and left of the pit of the neck for the neck.
2. I decide where I want the bottom of the pecks and draw a line wrapping around the
form there. This is different for every character. I also add arm tubes that connect to
the shoulder line.
3. I then connect the bottom corner of the pecks to the shoulders and end up with a
shape like this. This is NOT anatomically accurate but it's a helpful guideline that can
be adjusted with the particulars of each character.
4. Now here's where it get interesting. Starting near the bottom of center of the pecks
draw a rhythm line the travels up the center and turns before it gets to the pit of the
neck. This line travel over to rhythmically create the shoulders. This connects the
chest area with the shoulder creating a unified shoulder girdle. Once that's done, you
can add two concave lines from the neck to the shoulders to create the shoulder
muscles. If the male is very muscular, these line would be drawn convex.
5. And that's it. I have a male chest lay in. This is enough of an under drawing to start.
But what if you want to draw a female chest area? Well, it's pretty much the same thing
with some slight adjustments:
1. You start exactly like the male chest, with a shoulder line, pit of the neck and neck.
2. Then you draw the arms and the bottom of the pecks. Yes, women have pecks.
Surprise!
3. Connect the pecks to the shoulders as with the male.
4. Here's where thing change up a bit. To add bosoms simply draw two slanted egg
shape on the corner of each peck. This slant varies depending on the type of bosom.
Like men's chests, not all women have the same type of bosom.
TOP
5. Now create a rhythm line connecting both bosoms to each other and to the shoulders
to make them feel as if this whole area part of one unit. Once that's done you draw the
concave lines of the shoulder muscles.
. And you're done. You now have a female chest area lay in to draw over.
Whether your hip area is more box like or cube like, once you're ready to define it more,
you can turn into, what I call, "the underwear" shape. It reminds me of men's briefs.
This shape is not unique to me. I got this from The Famous Artist School book on The
Figure as well as Walt Reeds book on The Figure. I found this hip shape comes just as
handy for cartoons as it does for naturalistic figures.
It closely resembles a bowl with two holes cut out on the bottom. TOP
It can be placed on any shape. Like this:
The reason is to better define where the legs will be inserted into the area. I'll show you
how this helps once I start writing about the legs.
Once you have these elements down, you can start modifying them to create all kinds of
different body types and styles. You can make animals, different types of men, different
types of women. It's up to you and your experimentation.
Let's see how these formulas work using some popular cartoon styles...
The Bean is pretty much the foundation to most of the Freddy Moore style. It's very easy
to see in Looney Tune type characters and Mickey Mouse type. But you can also see a
more advance, more naturalistic version of the style in Disney animated features.
Below is a Looney Tunes type body. I didn't add chest or bellybutton details because this
body can be used to make bunnies, cats, dogs, mice...etc, as well as people:
1. It's simply made of two balls, top one about half as big as the bottom.
2. Which you then connect together. Adding some form and direction.
3. And you have the body type.
This is not "the only" Looney Tunes body type but it's a very common one.
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If, however, you're going to for a more Disney princess type, here is a simple archetypal
body formula for that:
1. Again, two balls. This time, the top ball more egg shaped and only slighting smaller
than the bottom one.
2. Except this time you join them with two "c" curves that bend inward creating an hour
glass shape. Adding direction, pecks and a small ball on the chest to define the
bosom. Usually the bosoms aren't big. Don't forget to add the underwear hip area.
3. And that's it. The final body type is usually very simple without a lot of anatomical
detail.
Remember, this is a body formula not an absolute. The final result can vary greatly
depending on your needs.
Male bodies that are in this more Disney type look, differ far more. so there isn't just one
body formula that you can adjust from. However, the body type below should be helpful.
Below is just one:
Now let's see the bullet in action using a more action adventure style...
Similar to the Freddy Moore Style except I found that using The Bullet works best for
these as a foundation. The construction would look something like this:
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1. First start off with a regular Bullet shape. Making sure the hip shape flares out.
2. Then add the "underwear" shape, chest rhythms and the shape of the Latissimus Dorsi
(Lats). Which gives the torso the exaggerated hour glass shape. Notice the triangle
shape created to the shoulders is much wider than the hips
3. And you're done. Simply draw the final details, leaving out most of the construction.
1. Start with the bullet, only don't flare out the hips. They should just go straight down.
2. Add the chest rhythms, shoulder girdle, and large modified ellipse for the Lats.
3. For the final line, just leave some of the details, shown below and you're done.
Just a reminder, this isn't THE way it's on ONE way to draw in this style.
If you want to get even more naturalistic, like with an anime style, you can. Let me show
you...
The most naturalistic version of the formula comes in play in this anime style. There's far
less exaggeration here. The Bullet comes into it's own when drawing in this style. Let's
begin with a female torso:
1. Again, you start bullet shape with the hips flared out.
2. As with the Bruce Timm style above, you add the chest rhythms and hip shapes. BUT
you don't add the exaggerated Lats. This style is a bit more natural. Also, this style
often has slightly larger bosoms. Notice the shoulder and hips, unlike the Bruce Timm
style above, are almost the same width.
3. Once that's all done, you pretty much get rid of most of the construction and add the
top line of the Clavicle.
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The male is the same with a bit more anatomy showing:
1. Start with a bullet. You may add a tad bit of flare at the hips if you want.
2. Add the chest Rhythms, hip shape, and Lats. As large or as light as the type of male
you want.
3. Once that's done, you'll need a bit of anatomy knowledge to put in all the right lines in
the right place. These cartoon type characters tend to be much more naturalistic.
And that's how you use The Bean and The Bullet to draw three different cartoon body
types. As you can see, the formula is very versatile.
As I've done before, Here's a body turn around of all three styles. Beginning with...
Male:
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Female:
Bruce Timm Style Torso Turn Around
Male:
Female:
Male:
Female:
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And that's that. You should be able to draw any type of cartoon body you want with the
info I've given to you. Remember, the more you know real anatomy, the better your final
drawings will be.
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head like ugly drawn hair. Pretty much, what you want to avoid, is the spaghetti hair
effect. You don't want your hair drawing to look like you're just putting down a bunch of
lines from the top of the head. It really doesn't look good at all.
In this lesson I'll show you three simple ways to approach hair that will make your
cartoons look far more professional.
These examples do follow some of what I'm going to talking about in this lesson. At this
point though, if you want to start drawing hair, you shouldn't get too intimidated. Just
start drawing what you think looks good. You can apply the info from this lesson if you
want to finesse your drawings:
This is something I learned Figure Drawing and it helps when drawing cartoons a lot.
What you're going to be doing is an extension of what we learned in Lvl 0 Designing
Simple Cartoon Characters with Flat Shapes.
You're going to design your character's hair using flat shapes until you come up with
something that seems right to you. This includes defining where the hair line is.
Why?
Well, because when we look at a person in real life, we don't see every individual hair
strand. What we see is a mass of hair that creates a certain shape. We recognize it as
lot's of hair and we notice it's texture but our first impression is it's shape.
When drawing cartoons, we simplify this even more and imply hair with hair shapes.
They can be simple or complex, depending on the style of cartoon.
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Believe it or not, when I'm life drawing a person's hair, I begin by simplifying the hair into a
flat shape and defining the hair line so I can get a handle of what I'm going to draw.
For the simplest of all cartoon hair types, you're basically done. You really don't have to
go any further than this.
However, if you want to take further, you can start adding a bit more detail and move to
the next step.
Instead of drawing every single strand of hair, it's helpful to separate hair into clumps.
Similar to ribbons. They can look flat, thick or pointy. Whatever works you need them to
be.
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In order to put them on the head, you pay attention to the hair's origin point. This is one
reason you define the hair line. It's a point of origin:
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Once you find these origin point you create ribbon shapes within the hair shape you've
established. You're essentially defining the way the hair flows. You can make this simple
or complex, it's up to you:
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There's is no right or wrong here, you it either looks right to you, or it doesn't.
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Using the hair shape we've already established, here's how I place the highlights:
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A good rule of thumb is, "less is more." If you can get away with one highlight, you're
good. If you need more than one, then add another. If you find you need even more,
you're in danger of over doing it.
Now let's take a look at how these three hair drawing tips work within different
naturalistic cartoony styles.
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And that's what I have to say about that.
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treated most like an afterthought. I know that I ignored them for most of my drawing
career. It's rare when anyone really pays too much attention to a drawing of an ear, unless
it's just down right terrible.
It doesn't really help that cartoon ears are almost error proof. You can almost draw
anything, call it an ear and you're done.
When it comes to drawing more naturalistic cartoon ears, you can get away with knowing
pretty much nothing about ear anatomy and end up with a good drawing of an ear.
Because of this, I won't breakdown an ear anatomically in this lesson. But what I will do
is give your some compound form formulas you can use to draw a solid looking three
dimensional looking ear on a naturalistic cartoon head.
I will also show you some simple details to use when drawing in Freddy Moore, Bruce
Timm and Takahiro Kimura styles which you can draw on the formula. However, before I
do, let's take a look at some simple cartoon ears.
Here are some examples of common cartoon ears. These are the simplest kind of ears
you can draw:
This is not an exhaustive example. You can find more by looking at other cartoons and
you can even make up your own.
That's basically it. With this you can add any style on top and you can get a decent
looking, naturalistic, cartoon ear.
Ear Styles
Let's take a look at the formula in action. We take the D shaped wedge formula, then we
add three different styles to it:
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And for the sake of completion, let's take do a turn around of all the head types:
Freddy Moore:
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Bruce Timm:
Takahiro Kimura Anime:
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mouth formulas are what I've studied the least of. There are different types of mouth
designs but overall the real trick to drawing mouths comes down to only one formula and
then the rest is cheats and stylization.
The Freddy Moore, Bruce Timm, and Takahiro Kimura Anime styles won't have their own
section this time because these mouth types aren't different enough from each other.
At it's most basic, cartoon mouths can be represented, on a face, in two ways:
As long as your mouth seems to represent an open or closed opening on the bottom part
of the face below the nose, you're doing well.
Once you have that working, that's really all you need. These lines and shapes come in all
kinds of varieties. Far too many to show here. It's really up to you which type you choose
to borrow or invent for your needs.
The sky's the limit. Below are SOME ways to draw cartoon mouths. This is just a sample
and by no means do they represent all the variations you can create:
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Cartoony mouth shapes have far more variety than more naturalistic mouth shapes, as
we will see below.
Alright, say you want to go a bit further with drawing mouths. You want the mouths you
draw to look like they're more than just stickers on the head. You want to draw a mouth
that looks a bit more natural.
Well, you'll need to know just a little bit about drawing natural mouths. Here's a few things
to keep in mind when drawing more naturalistic mouths
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Naturalistic Cartoony Mouth Styles
When I say "naturalistic," what I mean to say is Freddy Moore Style, Bruce Timm Style,
Anime Style. When it comes to drawing mouths in these styles there isn't any real change
in formula. Once you have the five things I wrote above in mind, you simply apply your
preferred style on top.
More often than not, when it comes to mouths, the styles don't differ almost at all. With a
few exceptions which I will get to later. So let me show you.
Let's just draw any old mouth type using the formula above:
Now we simply add the style convention of each style, which don't often differ:
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So really, that's all you need. Nothing too fancy right?
The one exception is anime style. There are some mouth stylizations in anime that have
become anime conventions. Conventions like:
Just to name a few. There's a whole library of different types. These can be chalked up to
putting a cartoonier mouth on a naturalistic cartoon head.
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For completion's sake, I'll add a mouth to the Freddy Moore, Bruce Timm and Takahiro
Kimura head turnarounds:
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Have fun drawing mouths.
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complicated as drawing naturalistic eyes. HOWEVER drawing cartoon noses isn't nearly
as hard. You can actually get away with a lot less understanding of actual noses and still
be able to draw convincing cartoon noses.
In this lesson I'll talk about general cartoon noses. Which really can be just about any
shape. TOP
I'll also give you a "catch all" nose base formula that can be adjusted to make just about
any kind of simple naturalistic looking nose. Finally, I'll go into Freddy Moore, Bruce
Timm and Takahiro Kimura anime nose formulas. We'll see what makes those type of
formulas tick.
Let's talk about general cartoon noses. As I stated above, cartoon noses can be just
about any shape. Simple cartoon noses are tough to mess up.
All you need is the spirit of experimentation and you can come up with all kinds of noses.
The only thing is deciding whether you like what you drew. If you do, then great, you've
got a nose. If you don't then try again and again, and again, until you get what you want.
It's up to you.
If you want to draw a cartoon nose that looks a bit more natural, there's a formula I
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stumbled into that has really worked well for me over the years. Long before I
understood drawing noses, I used this formula to make it seem like I knew what I was
doing.
I still use it to this day, only I now apply much more structure on top of it to achieve the
kind of noses I want to draw. Here's what the nose formula looks like:
Below I'll explain what the reasoning behind the formula is. I'm not doing a step by step
because, this nose shape is essentially a modified cube. If you don't know how to do this
yet, you need to go back and practice your forms:
1. The nose can be broken down into a modified box. However, the most important
addition is to add a wedge at the bottom, in the shape I drew it above.
2. This wedge best simplifies the complex area of the underside of the nose, which tends
to stick out a bit. It's not completely flat underneath.
3. As you can see in the profile, it also moves back at an angle. Noses tend to this this
and this simplification reinforces it from the start.
4. As you can see from all the views, from the tip of the nose to the back, there's a slight
slant down. In most noses, you can see it's underside. The center of the underside is
further down than nostrils.
5. Although the nose is simplified into a box, the sides are not perpendicular but rather
flare out.
This is not absolutely true for all noses everywhere. There is a lot of variety in noses.
However, this is a good starting point, and you can make adjustments based on the type
of know you're drawing using this formula.
Once you know how to construct the formula, this is how you use it to create noses. Say
you have this:
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It's merely a matter of selecting a few of the lines to imply the rest of the nose. You don't
want to draw every line. Just enough. This comes with practice and trail and error.
You can use quite a bit of detail, like the drawing above or you can try simplifying even
more like the drawing below.
You can even leave some of the construction you used to make a nose as part of your
final look. It makes the nose more graphic and less realistic.
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I started with this formula because it really helped me most. I had tried drawing noses
other ways and they never seemed to look right.
From this point on, we'll analyze other noses, formulas, and looks. I've found, at the very
least, that the nose formula above helps me create the look of the noses I'll be talking
about below. Although the Freddy Moore Nose, has it's own formula. So let's get take a
look...
Here we are again with Freddy Moore. However, I'm not so sure that his way of drawing
noses has become universally accepted in animation as many of this other techniques.
That's it? Yup. It's just a modified ball, or egg shape. Simple right?
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And if you change just the bridge of the nose, you can vary it up a bit:
However, the tricky thing about this kind of nose is it's lack of structure. Where do you but
the nostrils? Where's the tip of the nose?
You may want to break up the structure of this nose just a little to give you something a
bit more solid to guide your final lines with. Like this:
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The above is pretty much a variation of my won nose formula breakdown. Still, even
without my breakdown, this nose formula has been used by many artists for years. It
may be more helpful to you than my formula. Give is a try.
Here's two quick turn around of the nose to use. This is only two types of the many ways
you can use the nose formula. The one on the left is heavily based on Disney's Little
Mermaid. While the one on the right is far more cartoony. Don't assume they're the only
way to draw this kind of nose:
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Alright, now you know what I know about the Freddy Moore nose. Let's examine other
types of nose designs.
Male Bruce Timm Noses vary tremendously. However, there are two nose types he seems
to turn to most, the "Kirby nose," and a hook nose. Some of his hero character's noses
are heavily influenced by Silver Age comic artists like Jack Kirby. I say this only because
Bruce Timm himself has mentioned it in an interview he did in Modern Masters Volume 3:
Bruce Timm.
For the most part, I can say, if you use my nose formula, you should be able to produce
the variety of nose types he tends to draw:
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Female Bruce Timm noses vary far less. Most of the time, he uses one type of nose for
almost all his women.
This type of nose has some influence from noses drawn by Dan Decarlo, who was
arguably the best Archie comics artist, who drew in the "Archie Style." Bruce Timm also
mentions this is the same interview I sited above.
Here's a Bruce Timm female nose. I show you how you can use my formula and the
Freddy Moore formula as a base for drawing it:
Here's a male and female head turn around. Again, these are just one of many ways you
can approach this style:
One of the reasons I chose to highlight Takahiro Kimura's anime style instead of any
other is because I happen to like the way he sometimes draws noses. He tends to draw
men's noses in such a way that you can often see the formula they're made of.
Meanwhile his women's noses are often so simple the sometimes he simple draws the
bridge of the nose leaves it at that...and it works. The Male noses tend to explain
themselves pretty well:
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It's the female noses that are tricky. They're so simple looking that you could argue there
isn't any structure there at all. You'd be half right. I've seen him draw noses that simply
don't really work and it's obvious he was just putting a line down. However, in animation,
everyone has to be able to have all the characters look the same no matter who draws it.
This means that even simple nose designs like Takahiro Kimura's have to have some
structure:
Below I created a turnaround you can use for both males and females. Again, this turn
around is not a definitive version on drawing in this style, it's just one way to go.:
Video
I while back, I made a video about drawing my favorite nose drawing formula. I'm posting
the link below:
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Drawing Consistent Noses - Basic Nose Construction
That's what I've got to say about noses. I hope it's helpful. Time to move on.
Questions?
I can’t help you if you don’t ask.
Is there something you’ve always wanted to know about cartoon nose formulas? Ask.
I’ll give you my best answer and, who knows, probably write a post about it.
Or better yet, sign up to receive more information via e-mail. You’ll get extra tips and
advice. You can ask me questions that way also.
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