Caring for Your

Companion Rabbit

www.saveabunny.org
P.O. Box 2143
Mill Valley, CA 94942
(415) 388-2790
 SaveABunny

Table of Contents
Shopping List: The Basics 3

Local Rabbit Resources 4

About SaveABunny 6

SaveABunny: How You Can Help 7

Bunny Basics 8

Rabbit Diet Guide 10

Recommended Veggies and Treats 11

Rabbits: Outdoors vs. Indoors 12

Housing Your Rabbit 13

Rabbit-Proofing Your Home 14

Recommended Rabbit Toys 16

Why You Should Spay or Neuter Your Rabbit 17

Litter Box Training Your Rabbit 18

Safe Grooming and Handling Techniques 20

Medical Concerns for Rabbits 23

Is Your Rabbit Sick? 25

Giving Your Rabbit Medication 27

Membership Form 28

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Shopping List: The Basics‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗
DIET
! 80% of diet - fresh grass (not alfalfa) hay daily.
! 15% - fresh greens daily; limited fruit treats.
! 5% - timothy based pellets (not alfalfa); 100%
pure pellets. AVOID “gourmet” brands with
seeds, nuts, and dried fruit.
! Unlimited fresh water daily.
! NO commercial rabbit treats such as yogurt
drops, nuts, or flavored chew toys.
HOUSING
! Very roomy INDOOR enclosure. Minimum 6
times the size of an adult rabbit. A large dog
pen (X-pen) works well and is flexible.
! Front outward door is preferable to allow your
bunny to go in and out independently. Door
must be large enough to fit the litter box.
! No bare wire floors for foot/toenail safety.
! Carpet squares, sea grass mats, towels or sheets
for bedding.
! Cardboard or untreated wood boxes make ideal
resting places.
! Litter box – you may need more than one if
you will have a large space available to your
bunny.
! Use plant-based litters like Cat Country
Organic, Yesterday’s News or CareFresh. DO
NOT use wood shavings, clumping or clay-
based litters.
! Cozy pet carrier – not too roomy or too small.
It is often easier to remove a rabbit from a top-
loading carrier. Hard sides are best for using
with seatbelts. Place a towel on the bottom for
traction.
PLAYTIME
! Rabbits need AT LEAST 4 hours of INDOOR,
supervised out-of-cage time each day.
! Home must be rabbit-proofed. Protect
furniture/other items you don’t want chewed.
! Plenty of toys to chew, toss, jump on or dig in
like willow baskets/balls, phone books, boxes.
! DO NOT purchase a harness or leash for your
bunny. They are dangerous and can cause your
rabbit serious injury, including a broken back.
www.saveabunny.org
RABBIT-PROOFING YOUR HOME
! Rabbit must have access to litter box, food,
and water.
! Protect all electrical cords/wires with tubing.
! Remove any household plants at rabbit-level.
! Cover tile or wood floors with carpet; rabbits
may climb stairs.
GROOMING
! Brush weekly (or more) to keep rabbit from
developing hairballs; use a small cat brush,
HairBuster or Furminator is recommended.
! Trim nails every 6-8 weeks.
OTHER PETS
! Rabbits can get along with pet cats and dogs
– be sure other pets have no “predator”
instincts.
! Rabbits are “prey” animals and are likely to
be fearful for their safety.
! Supervised introductions must be done
slowly.
! Do not leave rabbits with other pets
unsupervised until you are ABSOLUTELY
sure there is no danger.
COMPANION RABBITS
! Rabbits are social animals by nature and
typically bond for life with a partner.
! Same sex companions are generally not
advised unless they are united siblings.
! Rabbits should be introduced to each other
before adopting – let your bunny choose her
partner.
! Both rabbits must be altered before bonding.
! Meet and greet bunny “dates” are offered
upon request/appointment.
TOYS
! Chew toys are necessary for dental health.
Provide untreated wood blocks, apple tree
branches, sticks, willow baskets, etc.
! Empty paper tubes or cardboard tunnels.
! Cat toy balls, whisk brooms, or phone books.
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Local Rabbit Resources‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

Veterinarians
Like dogs and cats, rabbits should get a yearly checkup by a veterinarian. Many vets are not familiar with
rabbits’ specific health needs so it is best to find an experienced vet before an emergency. Remember: if
your bunny is not eating, it is an emergency!
San Francisco
Dr. Alex Herman
Dr. Leila Marcucci
Dr. Nicola Gillespie
Bay Area Bird Hospital
All Pets Hospital
2145 Taraval St
269 South Van Ness Ave
San Francisco, CA
San Francisco, CA
(415) 566-4359
(415) 861-5725  
North Bay
Dr. Rachael Griffith Dr. Jona Sun Jordan Dr. Robert Jereb Dr. Karlton Pfann
Tender Care Vet Hospital Coddington Vet Clinic North Park Vet Clinic Bradner Vet Hospital
1569 4th St 2210 County Center Dr 5700 State Farm Dr 347 Lakeville Street
San Rafael, CA Santa Rosa, CA Rohnert Park, CA Petaluma, CA
(415) 454-4994 (707)  546-­‐4646   (707) 585-2899 (707) 762-3549
Dr. Debra Scheenstra Dr. Lisa Pesch
East San Rafael Vet Clinic Dr. Joy Mueller Specializes in acupuncture, Dr. Melissa Robinette
820 D Street Guardian Pet Hospital herbal and homeopathic Bel Marin Animal
San Rafael, CA 3501 Industrial Dr #C remedies. Hospital
(415) 456-4463 Santa Rosa, CA 245 North Main Street 25 Commercial Blvd
For house calls: (707) 524-2464 Sebastopol, CA Novato, CA
(415) 893-1554 (707) 823-1491 (415) 883-0578
Dr. Powers
Dr. Lynne Lankes Dr. Mark Ross
East Petaluma Animal
4144 Redwood Hwy Montgomery Vet Clinic
Hospital
Suite #A 4735 Sonoma Hwy
1420-B S. McDowell Blvd
San Rafael, CA Santa Rosa, CA
Petaluma, CA
(415) 479-2287 (707) 527-9330
(707) 765-9098
East Bay

Dr. Bynum
Dr. Sorem
Dr. Arntz
Dr. Carolynn Harvey Dr. Shelby Riddle Dr. Kim
20877 Foothill Blvd 852 Southampton Road Dr. LaMont
Hayward, CA Benicia, CA Dr. Berkley
(510) 538-2330 (707) 745-1135 VCA Bay Area Animal
Hospital
4501 Shattuck Avenue
Oakland, CA
(510) 654-8375
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Penninsula
Dr. Karen Blount Dr. Kurt Nakamura
1125 Merrill Street Dr. Oday
Menlo Park, CA 396 First Street
(650) 325-5671 Los Altos, CA
(650) 948-9661
South Bay
Dr. Lawrence
Dr. Rodda
Dr. Littlehale
Evergreen Veterinary
Dr. Steven
Clinic
Dr. Piert
1611 East Capital
Santa Clara Pet Hospital
Expressway
830 Keily Blvd.
San Jose, CA
Santa Clara, CA
(408) 238-0690
(408) 296-5857  

Emergency and After Hours Care

Before bringing your bunny to any pet emergency clinic, call first to see if they have a veterinarian on
duty who treats rabbits.

Pet Emergency & Specialty Center of Marin

901 East Francisco Blvd, San Rafael, CA 94901
(415) 456-7372

Pet Emergency Treatment Service

1048 University Ave, Berkeley, CA 94710
(510) 548-6684

Adobe Animal Hospital

4470 El Camino Real, Los Altos, CA 94022
(650) 948-9661

Hay Sources
Hay sold in pet stores is usually found in small bags at big prices. Given the amount of hay that rabbits
need to eat, it’s more economical to buy hay by the flake or by the bale. A flake of hay weighs about 10
lbs, a bale weighs about 100 lbs. If you don’t have space to store a bale, try splitting it with a friend or
donating some to a shelter! You can buy hay at the Rohnert Park Animal Shelter (flake), at the Sonoma
Humane Society (flake), and at feed stores (bale, sometimes flake).

Books
House Rabbit Handbook by Marinell Harriman
Rabbit Health in the 21st Century by Kathryn Smith
Stories Rabbits Tell by Susan E. Davis and Margo DeMello
The Essential Rabbit by Betsy Sikora Siino

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Online Information
SaveABunny – www.saveabunny.org
House Rabbit Society – www.rabbit.org

Online Supplies
Binky Bunny (toys & supplies) — www.binkybunny.com
Bunny Bunch Boutique (toys & supplies) — www.bunnybunchboutique.com
Bunny Luv (toys & supplies) — www.bunnyluv.com
Funny Bunny Toy Company (toys) — www.funnybunnytoyco.com
Leith Petwerks (habitats, toys & supplies) — www.leithpetwerks.com
The Busy Bunny (toys & supplies) — www.busy.bunny.com

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About SaveABunny‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗
Love animals? Want to make a difference? You’ve come to the right place.
SaveABunny is an award-winning, 501(c)(3) nonprofit, volunteer-based animal rescue organization based
in Mill Valley, California near San Francisco. We work with over 30 shelters to make sure abandoned,
abused and neglected rabbits get the second chance they deserve.

History
SaveABunny was founded in 1999 and since that time we have been involved with the life-saving rescues
of close to 5,000 rabbits. Yet, we are still a small scrappy, resourceful and volunteer-based group. We
value your involvement, compassion and support! Saving the life of a gentle, loving animal who would
otherwise be euthanized is a profound experience that will change your life for the better.

Funding
We are funded primarily through donations  and grants, and secondarily through adoption fees and
specialty services, such as boarding, rabbit grooming, and limited merchandise sales.
SaveABunny is an approved 501(c)(3) tax-exempt charitable organization.  SaveABunny's EIN# is
80-0243372. Your support is urgently needed and effectively managed.

Our Mission and Philosophy

We serve both the people and animals in the community through
adoption, advocacy, education, outreach and rescue options. We believe
that all companion rabbits are worthy of a safe, loving home regardless
of breed purity, pedigree, or temperament. We are against the use of
rabbits for meat or fur. We encourage people to adopt spayed or
neutered rabbits from shelters and rescue groups, such as SaveABunny,
rather than purchasing an animal from a breeder or pet store.
According to the ASPCA, rabbits are the third most frequently
euthanized animal in the United States. Adopting or fostering a rescued rabbit saves precious lives.
All our rabbits are spayed or neutered and undergo medical and
temperament evaluation before being placed up for adoption. We carefully
screen potential adopters and require that all rabbits from SaveABunny live
indoors as a treasured member of the family. We provide free, ongoing
support to adopters, and we make a lifetime commitment to the safety and
well-being of the rabbit.
Our adoption contract outlines terms for the proper care of a rabbit and
specifies that the rabbit be returned to SaveABunny if the terms of the
adoption contract are violated or if the adopter can no longer care for the
rabbit.
Scooter - Resident naughty
bunny, and SaveABunny
ambassador extraordinaire!

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SaveABunny: How You Can Help‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

Your help can make an immediate difference in the life of a lonely animal in need.

" ADOPT: We have fabulous, loving bunnies in need of forever homes. We will work closely with
you to make sure it’s the right match for both you and your bunny. We will provide you with all the
information and support you need to have a wonderful life together.

" FOSTER: Want to help, but are unable to adopt permanently? Sadly, many rabbits have been
innocent victims of abuse and neglect and need gentle, patient guardians to help them heal and trust
again. Can you help these bunnies get back on their feet until they find their forever homes?

" VOLUNTEER: Looking for a fun and social way to help animals in need? We have volunteer
opportunities suited just for you. You do not need to adopt an animal to help save lives! Whatever
your occupation or hobby, there is always a way to help. And of course you’ll meet THE BUNNIES!

" SHOP COMPASSIONATELY: Please do not shop at pet stores that sell animals. They are
contributing to the tragic animal overpopulation problem. Visit our Etsy.com and Ebay.com stores to
buy unique items that support our work.

" DONATE: We are a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization and depend on generous donations from
people like you to help us save more lives. Donations are tax-deductible and can be made via PayPal
on our website. Checks can be made out to SaveABunny and mailed to:

SaveABunny
P.O. Box 2143
Mill Valley, CA 94942

" BECOME A MEMBER OF SAVEABUNNY: Please fill out the last page of this booklet to
become a member today and support our rescue and educational efforts.

For more information, please visit our website at

www.saveabunny.org
or contact SaveABunny at
(415) 388-2790 or saveabunny@aol.com

Thank you for your caring and compassionate support!

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Bunny Basics ‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

This section serves as an introduction to rabbit care. More information on these topics can be
found in the sections that follow.

Personality
• Rabbits  are  individuals,  just  like  people,  cats  and  dogs.  They  can  be  shy,  nervous,  outgoing,  playful,  
bright,  ornery,  inquisitive,  and  opinionated.  
• Most  rabbits  do  NOT  like  to  be  picked  up  and  held.  Most  will  not  sit  in  your  lap.  They  like  you  to  interact  
with  them  on  the  ground  at  their  level.  
• Rabbits  are  very  intelligent  and  need  rabbit-­‐safe  toys  and  other  mental  stimulation.  
• Remember  that  rabbits  are  prey  animals  (unlike  cats  or  dogs)  and  need  to  feel  safe  and  secure  in  their  
environment.  Let  THEM  approach  you.  

Company
• Most  rabbits  enjoy  social  interaction  with  people.  
• Many  rabbits  enjoy  the  companionship  of  another  spayed  or  
neutered  rabbit.  Let  your  bunny  pick  his  or  her  own  friend.  
• Introduce  rabbits  slowly  in  neutral  territory,  with  each  rabbit  
having  his/her  own  housing  during  this  time.  Better  yet,  
consult  an  expert.  Rabbits  can  fight  viciously.  
• Many  rabbits  can  get  along  well  with  cats  and  well-­‐behaved  
dogs.  Slow  and  supervised  introductions  are  a  must.  
• Rabbits  do  not  make  good  pets  for  young  children—especially  
in  classrooms.  Rabbits  prefer  a  quiet,  stable  environment  and   Colt,  the  Dutch  Bunny,  shares    
can  be  easily  injured  by  exuberant  children.   insights  with  his  human,  Rob.  
 
Health
• Male  and  female  rabbits  need  to  be  spayed  or  neutered  for  both  health  and  behavioral  reasons  –  even  if  
solitary.  
• Indoor,  altered  rabbits  with  proper  diet  and  vet  care  can  live  to  be  10+  years.  
• Locate  a  veterinarian  who  is  experienced  with  rabbits’  unique  medical  needs  before  an  emergency  
arises.  Have  yearly  checkups  with  your  vet.  See  the  vet  list  in  Local  Rabbit  Resources  (pages  4-­‐5).  For  
national/international  vet  listings,  visit  the  House  Rabbit  Society’s  website.  
• Contact  your  vet  immediately  if  your  bunny  has  stopped  eating,  drinking  or  eliminating.  This  is  an  
emergency!  
• Closely  monitor  any  changes  in  your  bunny’s  behavior  and  daily  habits  for  signs  of  illness.  Don’t  wait  to  
seek  medical  attention.  Rabbits  hide  signs  of  illness  and  can  die  quickly.  

Grooming
• Rabbits  need  to  be  brushed  regularly  to  avoid  hairballs.  Unlike  cats,  rabbits  can’t  vomit  and  can  become  
very  ill  from  intestinal  blockage.  Longhaired  rabbits  should  be  brushed  daily  and  shorthaired  rabbits  

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should  be  brushed  several  times  per  week.  
• Nail  trims  are  needed  every  6-­‐8  weeks.  You  can  learn  to  do  this  yourself,  have  a  vet  do  it,  or  bring  your  
rabbit  to  a  SaveABunny  outreach  event.        
• Rabbits’  teeth  grow  constantly  and  require  hard  items  like  hay,  greens  with  stems,  and  toys  to  chew  on  
to  help  the  teeth  wear  properly.  Have  your  vet  check  your  bunny’s  teeth  at  every  yearly  checkup.  

Environment
• The  bigger  the  enclosure  the  better.    
• Rabbits  should  never  be  on  wire  because  their  feet  can  become  sore  and  infected.  Try  sea  grass  mats,  
towels,  and  carpet—  but  make  sure  they  do  not  eat  the  carpet.  The  sea  grass  can  be  chewed  up  and  
eaten.  
• Use  plant-­‐based  litters,  such  as  Cat  Country  Organic  and  Yesterday’s  News.  DO  NOT  use  wood  shavings  
or  clay-­‐based  litters,  such  as  Johnny  Cat.  These  can  cause  very  serious  illnesses  in  rabbits.  
• Place  clean  litter  boxes  stocked  with  fresh  hay  in  a  few  corners  of  your  bunny’s  space.  She  will  tend  to  
pick  one  or  two  corners  and  if  that  is  where  you  place  the  litter  boxes  you  may  find  that  your  rabbit  
almost  litter  trains  herself!  
• Provide  plenty  of  toys  for  mental  stimulation  and  to  help  keep  your  bunny  out  of  trouble.  Introducing  
new  toys  regularly  or  cycling  through  the  toys  you  allow  your  rabbit  access  to  will  keep  toys  novel  and  
fun.  
• Allow  AT  LEAST  4  hours  of  indoor,  supervised  out-­‐of-­‐cage  time  per  day.  Rabbits  need  lots  of  attention,  
playtime  and  exercise  to  stay  happy  and  healthy.  
• Make  sure  to  rabbit-­‐proof  your  home  by  covering  electrical  wires  with  a  hard  covering  and  removing  
other  hazards,  such  as  plants.  Protect  any  furniture  or  items  you  don’t  want  chewed  or  damaged.  Think  
of  it  as  having  a  perpetual  2-­‐year-­‐old  in  your  house.  

Costs
• In  addition  to  any  adoption  fees,  initial  setup  costs  usually  run  from  $100  to  $200.  
• Ongoing  expenses  will  average  about  $40+  per  month.  
• Rabbit  vet  care  can  be  expensive.  Checkups  average  $50  to  $100  per  visit.  Emergency  vet  care  can  easily  
run  hundreds  of  dollars.  
• Private  spay  or  neuter  expenses  typically  range  from  $100  to  $300  dollars.  Adopting  a  rabbit  who  is  
already  spayed  or  neutered  from  a  shelter  or  rescue  group  is  MUCH  easier  and  MUCH  less  expensive.  

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Rabbit Diet Guide‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

The healthiest rabbit diet consists of unlimited fresh hay, a small amount of good
quality pelleted rabbit food, and fresh leafy green vegetables. Anything beyond
this is a treat and should be given in very limited quantities.

Water
Provide unlimited fresh water daily, either in a bottle or heavy/ceramic crock that can’t be tipped over.

Hay
Rabbits of all ages should have an unlimited amount of fresh hay daily. Timothy, oat or orchard grass hay
are all good choices for adults because they are higher in fiber and lower in protein which is important for
proper digestion. Alfalfa hay is for babies only. Hay is nutritious, and it provides roughage for prevention
of life-threatening intestinal blockages and proper digestive bacterial balance. You can serve your rabbit
her hay by filling a litter box with hay or using one of SaveABunny’s hay savers. Stuff empty, unbleached
toilet paper rolls with hay to give your bunny a project! Do not purchase compressed hay because rabbits
need long/loose hay to chew for dental health. See Local Rabbit Resources (pages 4-5) for hay sources.

Greens
Adult rabbits should also have an assortment of fresh greens daily. A daily serving of greens is a pile
about 1-2 times the size of your bunny’s head. Make sure greens are washed, haven’t been sprayed with
pesticides and don’t have any mold. Introduce greens one at a time and if any causes diarrhea, stop
feeding it immediately. See Recommended Veggies and Treats (page 12).

Treats
Avoid yogurt drops and other sugary treats, as well as human crackers and sweets. However, a small piece
of fruit or carrot (no larger than an inch), a raisin or a berry will make your bunny very happy! Seeds,
grains, and other foods higher in carbohydrates and fat and lower in fiber are not good for a rabbit’s
digestion. Be aware of misleading marketing in rabbit food products. Many contain additives that sound
important or healthy but serve no nutritional purpose for your bunny and can even be bad for her.

Pellets
In general, feed 1/8 cup pellets per pound of body weight. This is usually about 2-3 tablespoons per rabbit
daily. Obese rabbits or rabbits with digestive mobility problems need fewer pellets.
Suggested pellet types: American Pet Diner Timmy Pellets, Oxbow Bunny Basics T (for adults), Oxbow
15/23 (for rabbits under 1 year of age), and Purina High-Fiber Pellets. Avoid rabbit foods that contain
dried fruit, nuts, and colored bits, as these are unhealthy for your bunny.

Changing Your Rabbit’s Diet

A rabbit’s digestive system is very sensitive, so avoid drastic changes. However, you will need to change
your bunny’s diet if he has been eating an unhealthy diet or he is growing older. Use the 5/5ths rule to
reduce digestive upset. Every 5 days change an additional 1/5 of the rabbit’s food to the new kind until 21
days later he is only eating the new kind. Be patient if the rabbit eats around the new food.

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Recommended Veggies and

Treats‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

Recommended Veggies
A variety is necessary in order to obtain the Treats (Limited Amounts)
necessary nutrients. Include one each day that Carrots and other sugary treats should only
contains Vitamin A, indicated by an *. Add one be used very sparingly or not at all. Limit
vegetable to the diet at a time, and eliminate if it the size of any treat to 1 inch. Examples of
causes soft stools or diarrhea. Avoid vegetables treats:
that are not on this list.
Apple (remove stem and seeds)
Select at least 3 daily:
Berries – 1/2 to 1 berry
Arugula Carrots
Asparagus Mango*
Basil Melon (cantaloupe* or other)
Bok choy* Orange (no peel)
Borage Papaya
Cilantro Peach
Clover Pear
Dill Pineapple
Escarole Plum
Fennel tops Pumpkin
Lettuce (green, red leaf, or romaine – NO iceberg
or light green leaf)*
Lemon Grass
Mint
Snow pea pods (the flat edible kind)*
Radicchio
Raspberry & Blackberry leaves – including thorns!
Swiss Chard*
Watercress*
Wheat grass*

Use sparingly or avoid if rabbit has

kidney/urinary tract problems:
Radish tops and sprouts
Beet greens (tops)*
Carrot tops (Carrots are a treat)*
Collard greens*
Dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides)* Be,  Chon  Chon,  &  Obe  
Endive*
Kale*
Mustard greens*
Parsley*
Spinach*
Turnip tops 12
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Rabbits: Outdoors vs. Indoors‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

SaveABunny strongly recommends that your companion rabbit be housed indoors. Rabbits are intelligent,
sensitive, and have delightfully strong personalities. These personalities emerge when your bunny gets to
know you. What a tragic waste of a spirit to put one outside in a cage. Your bunny is a very social animal,
and he deserves love and interaction with his human family.
Domestic rabbits are a different species than wild rabbits that can no longer protect themselves
successfully from predators. Rabbits living outside generally only live a few years, while indoor rabbits
can live 8-10+ years.
The sad truth is that rabbits living outdoors simply can’t be constantly monitored for the small changes in
behavior that can signal health problems. Being prey animals, rabbits tend to hide their symptoms until
they are very sick. When your bunny lives indoors you can observe him very closely, and you will notice
if he is the slightest bit “off.” Monitoring the health of any living being can be a life-or-death issue.

Rabbits “Just Visiting” the Outdoors

If rabbits are going to be allowed outside, under no circumstances should they be left outside
unsupervised. It takes just a few seconds for the neighbor’s dog to jump the fence and attack or frighten
your bunny to death. Rabbits are also natural escape artists and can dig under, chew through, or jump
over a fence or gate. We recommend a covered pen outside so the space is small and safe from a variety
of threats. Make sure that the area is secured, the grass has not been sprayed with pesticides or
fertilizers, and there are no poisonous plants. Other dangers rabbits may encounter outside include:

• Predators:  Even  in  the  most  urban  environments  outdoor  rabbits  are  vulnerable  to  predators  including  
feral  cats,  hawks,  dogs,  raccoons,  and  people.  There  is  no  such  thing  as  a  hutch  that  is  safe  from  
predators.  Even  in  a  cage,  determined  predators  can  bend  or  break  wire;  agile  ones  can  open  cage  
doors.  Sometimes  even  the  sight  of  a  predator  can  trigger  an  extreme  reaction  in  your  bunny  including  
a  panic  attack  during  which  he  can  run  wildly,  twist,  and  thrash.  A  rabbit  in  this  state  can  break  his  own  
back  or  die  from  a  heart  attack.  
• Exposure:  Rabbits  are  extremely  susceptible  to  the  elements,  especially  heat.  Temperatures  above  80°F  
can  cause  heat  stroke  and  death.  Heat  is  the  number  one  killer  of  pet  rabbits  outdoors.  Signs  of  heat  
stress  include  panting,  drooling,  rapid  breathing  or  pulse,  and  lethargy.  If  your  bunny  shows  any  of  
these  signs,  wipe  down  his  ears  with  a  cool  rag,  put  him  in  his  carrier  along  with  a  large  ice  bottle  and  
GET  TO  THE  VET  IMMEDIATELY  –  it  is  a  life-­or-­death  situation.
• Poisonous  Plants: Domesticated  rabbits  have  long  since  lost  the  ability  to  identify  toxic  plants.  We  
advise  making  a  list  of  all  plants  growing  in  your  yard  and  checking  it  for  poisonous  plants  at  a  nursery  
or  on  the  web  at  http://rabbit.org/poisonous-­‐plants/  Avoid  toxic  pesticides  and  fertilizers.
• Pests  and  Parasites: Rabbits  outside  are  susceptible  to  fleas,  ticks,  mites,  and  worms.  These  are  
physically  dangerous  for  your  bunny,  as  well  as  extremely  uncomfortable.  Your  rabbit  will  also  be  
vulnerable  to  deadly  diseases  and  parasites,  such  as  Raccoon  Roundworm,  fly  strike,  West  Nile,  and  
Myxomatosis.

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Housing Your
Rabbit‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗
Cages and Pens
" Wire puppy pens (also called X-pens) at least 30” high
make great enclosures and can easily be configured
into different shapes to match your available space.
Most pet supply stores sell these pens. You may need
to protect your floor or carpet, and this can be done
with using an inexpensive area rug, plastic office chair
mat, linoleum remnant, exercise mat, or other bunny-
safe covering.
" Leith Petwerks (www.leithpetwerks.com) is a great
online source for 1, 2 and 3 story condos. You can also
build condos using wire grid cubes, e.g. Neat Idea An  exemplary  bunny  pen  living  space  
Cubes, found at office supply stores and warehouse
stores. Make sure the flooring is appropriate.
" Cages should have a solid floor. Rabbits should never be on wire because their feet can become sore
and infected. Rabbits don’t need commercial bedding. For comfort and traction, try sea grass mats,
rugs, towels, or carpet – make sure they do not eat the carpet. Sea grass can be chewed up and eaten.
" Make sure a cage or enclosure is at least 6 times the size of your bunny stretched out and it provides
additional room for hopping around, lounging, a litter box, and some toys. The bigger, the better!
" Until you know that your bunny can be left unsupervised, he should be kept in his cage or pen while
you’re not at home and at night while you sleep. Rabbits are crepuscular, which means they generally
sleep during the day and night but are ready to play at dawn and dusk. Be sure to let them out during
the evening when you are home, and if possible, in the morning while you are getting ready for work.
" An X-pen or cage should be seen as the rabbit’s nest, a special place where he can feel safe and
secure. Make the nest enjoyable and he will enjoy being there. Keep it stocked with his favorite toys,
a clean litter box, and when you put him to bed at night, a nice veggie, fruit, or pellet snack. Front
opening doors to cages or pens are best so the rabbit can move in and out on their own.
" Temperatures above 80°F can be life threatening. Fans won’t cool your bunny because rabbits don’t
sweat and can’t benefit from evaporative cooling. If your rabbit shows symptoms including panting,
drooling, rapid breathing or pulse, or lethargy; wipe down his ears with a cool rag, put him in his
carrier along with a large ice bottle and get to the vet IMMEDIATELY! On a hot day leave your
bunny in his cage/pen with frozen water bottles/ice packs or tiles that you can cool in the refrigerator.

Rabbits in the House

" When your house (or the part that your bunny will have access to) has been well rabbit-proofed, your
bunny can be allowed free run of the home (or part of it) even when you are not home. The more
room your bunny has to run around in, the more delightful you will find him as a companion.
" Even when a rabbit has a lot of room to run around, he may still get bored. A bored rabbit is often a
naughty rabbit. If you don’t make every attempt to provide your bunny with lots of entertainment, in

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the form of boxes, baskets, brooms, sticks, magazines, phone books, grass mats, etc., then he will
make his own entertainment in your carpet, behind your couch, or under your recliner.

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Rabbit-Proofing Your Home‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

Rabbits are chewers and burrowers. Rabbits enjoy small, dark spaces. Rabbits are curious. These are three
reasons why you will need to “rabbit-proof” your house prior to letting your bunny out in your home.
Rabbit-proofing your home will protect both your bunny and your belongings. It is absolutely necessary if
your bunny will be in your house outside of his enclosure. Rabbits can be trained not to chew on certain
objects or enter certain rooms, but training should not be the only protective measure. Protective measures
and deterrents alone may not be sufficient. Combining the training with removing access to the problem
area is the best formula for success. Here’s a list of potential hazards and suggested solutions.

Electrical and Other Cords

Electrical cords are a very serious threat to rabbits. Chewing through a power cord can cause severe burns
or even electrocution. Other cords that can be chewed include phone, computer, cable TV, and appliance
cords.
Many “obvious” ways to protect cords from rabbit
chewing don’t actually work:
! Simply  raising  the  cords  above  floor  level  will  NOT  
prevent  your  bunny  from  reaching  them  –  remember  
that  when  sitting  up  on  their  hind  legs,  rabbits  can  
reach  more  than  a  foot  in  height.    
 

! Placing  cords  behind  furniture  may  not  keep  your  

bunny  away  from  the  cords.  Rabbits  can  fit  into  some  
pretty  tight  spaces.  
 

! Bitter  sprays  often  do  NOT  work,  since  rabbits  tend  to  
like  bitter  tastes.  

Solutions Parker  surveying  his  office  

" Spiral cable wrap: This is a flexible plastic sheath
that can be wound around the cords. CAUTION: Some rabbits may still try to chew through this.
Monitor your bunny closely; if he chews on this, try one of the other alternatives.
" Cord concealers: These are hard plastic, come in various colors and sizes, and are usually applied to
the wall above the baseboards. These can be more decorative than cable wraps. EZ Hidewire is one
type, and is available at some hardware stores and online at www.ezhidewire.com
" PVC pipe or hard polyethylene tubing: A slit can be cut through the pipe or tubing and the cords
slipped inside. Tubing that is already split is also available.
" Decorative covers for shower curtain rods: These are usually 6 feet long and already split
lengthwise.
" Lamp guards: Tap Plastics (in San Rafael) has these inexpensive clear and colored plastic tubes.
They are approximately 1 ½ inches in diameter and 4 feet long.

Wooden Furniture and Baseboards

Rabbits especially love to chew wood. By not allowing him to chew wood, you are going against your
rabbit’s basic instinct and necessity to chew. Training your bunny not to chew these items may help, but
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just saying “no” will NOT be enough. Again, a bitter spray will probably NOT be effective since many
rabbits like bitter tastes.

Solutions
! Plastic plants are not a good alternative, since the plastic could cause gastrointestinal irritation or
blockage if your bunny ingests them.
" Plant selection: Select plants that are not poisonous to rabbits. The House Rabbit Handbook by
Marinell Harriman has a complete list of poisonous plants (indoor and outdoor).
" Plant location: Hanging plants from the ceiling or placing them on tables several feet high will
prevent the rabbit from reaching them. However, leaves may still drop to the floor, so select safe
plants even if you are going to place them out of your bunny’s reach. This is also true for cut flowers.

Upholstered Furniture and Beds

Rabbits may not only chew the upholstery that you can see; they may also get underneath the furniture
and chew the underside. Some rabbits will climb into the hole they have made and burrow farther. Use
caution with recliners, since rabbits may get underneath them and into the mechanism.

Solutions
" Always know where your bunny is before you lower or raise a recliner.
" Place a wooden frame or one made of PVC tubing under the furniture, blocking your rabbit’s
access. The frame can be stained and made slightly smaller than the base of the furniture to blend in.

Carpet
Carpets can appear to be almost irresistible to some rabbits. Often they will start to pull up or chew on
carpets in the corner of the room. They also like to dig at the end of ‘tunnels’ so protect areas where your
furniture forms a narrow path – especially to a wall. You can also place a tub of hay, shredded newspaper,
or a phone book there for the rabbit to dig. Spaying/neutering can also reduce a desire to burrow.

Solutions
" Protect the carpet in those areas most likely to be chewed by covering them with ceramic tiles,
wood, carpet runners (although the rabbit may also chew on the runner), or clear office chair mats.
Office chair mats can be cut to size and put down in places your bunny wants to chew or dig. The
spikes on the underside will prevent him from pushing the mat out of the way.

Other Tips
Chewing is normal, natural, necessary, and highly enjoyable. Chewers are often intelligent, outgoing,
affectionate rabbits who like to be in charge and get attention. Entertaining toys will reduce the desire to
chew out of boredom and a companion may reduce chewing for attention. Discipline (clapping hands and
saying “no”) has a small role in stopping chewing behavior. Many people find it is easy to have rabbits
understand but hard to stop the behavior from reoccurring, especially when left alone.

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Recommended Rabbit Toys‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

Toys Provide Mental Stimulation
Without challenging activities to occupy your bunny when you’re not home, your bunny (especially a
solitary rabbit) will get bored. This could lead to depression and/or excessive destruction. The creative use
of toys can extend your rabbit’s life by keeping him interested in his surroundings, by giving him the
freedom to interact with those surroundings, and by allowing him to constantly learn and grow.

Toys Provide Physical Exercise

Rabbits need safe activities to keep their bodies and minds active.
They need things to climb on or crawl under, hop on and around, dig
into and chew on. Without outlets for these physical needs, your
bunny may become fat or depressed, or may create jumping,
chewing or crawling fun with your furniture or other belongings.

Toys Help Protect Your Home

As is clear from the above descriptions, toys are not just for your
rabbit’s sake, they also keep your house safe. By providing your
bunny with a selection of toys chosen to meet his age, sex, and
Minnie  and  her  ball   temperament, you have fulfilled most of the requirements of rabbit-
proofing your home.

Some Good Toys to Start With

" Paper bags and cardboard boxes for crawling inside, scratching, and chewing. Rabbits like them
much more when there are at least two entry points into the boxes.
" Cardboard concrete forms for burrowing (available at hardware and home improvement stores).
" Cardboard  rolls  from  paper  towels  or  toilet  paper.  
" Untreated  wicker  baskets  or  boxes  full  of  shredded  paper,  junk  mail,  straw,  or  other  organic  materials  
for  digging.  Many  rabbits  love  to  shred  phone  books!  
" Hard  plastic  or  wooden  cat,  bird,  and  baby  toys  that  roll  or  can  be  tossed  or  hung  from  the  top  of  the  
cage  and  chewed  or  hit.  
" Things  to  jump  up  on  or  climb  in,  such  as  a  cardboard  box  with  ramps  and  windows.  Also,  kitty  condos,  
tubes,  tunnels  and  trees  work  well  as  long  as  your  bunny  isn’t  ingesting  the  carpet.  
" Nudge  and  roll  toys  like  large  rubber  balls,  empty  Quaker  Oat  boxes  and  small  tins.  
" Any  toys  from  www.funnybunnytoyco.com  and  www.busybunny.com  
" Toys  with  ramps  and  lookouts  for  climbing  and  viewing  the  world.  
" A  hand  towel  for  bunching  and  scooting.  
" Untreated  wood,  twigs,  and  logs  that  have  been  aged  for  at  least  3  months.  Apple  tree  branches  can  be  
eaten  fresh  off  the  tree.  Stay  away  from  cherry,  peach,  apricot,  plum  and  redwood,  which  are  all  
poisonous.  

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Why You Should Spay or Neuter Your Rabbit‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

Altered rabbits are healthier and live
longer than unaltered rabbits.
The risk of reproductive cancers for an unspayed
female rabbit stands at over 80%, and is virtually
eliminated by spaying. Your neutered male rabbit will
live longer as well, given that he won’t be tempted to
fight with other animals (rabbits, cats, etc.) due to his
sexual aggression.

Altered rabbits make better companions.

Rabbits are calmer, more loving, and dependable once
the undeniable urge to mate has been removed. In
addition, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing,
digging) and aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling) behavior after alteration. Un-neutered male
rabbits spray, and both males and females are much easier to litter train, and much more reliably trained,
after they have been altered.

Altered rabbits won’t contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits.

Over 15 million adorable dogs, cats, and rabbits are killed in animal shelters in this country every year. In
addition, unwanted rabbits are often abandoned in fields, in parks, or on city streets to fend for
themselves, where they suffer from starvation, sickness, and are easy prey to other animals or traffic
accidents. Those rabbits who are sold to pet stores don’t necessarily fare any better, as pet stores sell pets
to anyone with the money to buy and don’t check on what kind of home they will go to. Many of these
rabbits will be sold as snake food or as a pet for a small child who will soon “outgrow” the rabbit.

Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with.

Rabbits are social animals and enjoy the company of other rabbits. But unless your bunny is altered, he or
she cannot have a friend, either of the opposite sex or the same sex, due to sexual and aggressive
behaviors.

Spaying and neutering rabbits is a safe

procedure.
A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or
neuter your bunny with very little risk to a healthy
rabbit. Don’t allow a veterinarian with little or no
experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your bunny.

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Litter Box Training Your

Rabbit‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗
By nature, rabbits choose one or a few places (usually corners)
to deposit their urine and most of their pills (droppings). Urine
training involves little more than putting a litter box where
your bunny chooses to go. Pill training requires only that you
give him a place he knows will not be invaded by others.

The Basic Method

Start with a box in the enclosure and one or more boxes in your
rabbit’s running space. If he urinates in a corner of the
enclosure not containing the box, move the box to that corner
until he gets it right. Don’t be concerned if your bunny curls up
in his litter box – this is natural. Once he’s using the box in the
enclosure, open the door and allow him into his running space.
Watch him go in and out on his own. If he heads to a corner
where there’s no box, or lifts up his tail in the characteristic
fashion, say “no” in a single, sharp burst of sound. Gently herd him back to his enclosure and his litter
box or to one of the boxes in his room. Be careful, however. You don’t want to make the enclosure or the
litter box seem like punishment. A handful of hay in the box makes it a more welcoming place. After he
first uses the box, praise him and give a favorite treat. Once he uses the box in his room a couple of times,
his habits will be forming and you will be well on your way to having a trained rabbit. As he gets better
trained in his first room, you can increase his space. Don’t hurry this process. And if the area becomes
very big, or includes a second floor, be sure to include more litter boxes, so as not to confuse him.
Remember, as he becomes more confident and uses fewer boxes, you can start to remove some of his
early “training” boxes.

Other Factors to Keep in Mind as You Litter Train

The Rabbit
" Age: Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. A rabbit’s attention span
and knack for learning increase as he grows up. If you have a baby, stick with it! And if you are
deciding whether to adopt an older rabbit, or litter train your older rabbit, go for it!
" Spay/Neuter: This is often the most important factor. When rabbits reach the age of 4-6 months,
their hormones activate and they usually begin marking their territory. By spaying or neutering your
bunny, he or she will be more likely to use a litter box (as well as be much healthier and happier).
" Pills vs. Urine: All rabbits will drop pills around their enclosure to mark it as their own. This is not
failure to be litter-trained. It is very important for your bunny to identify the cage as his property so
that when he leaves it for the bigger world of your house, he will distinguish the family’s area from
his own and avoid marking it. To encourage this, make the rabbit the king of his enclosure. Try not to
force him in or out of it – coax him. Do not do things to his cage that he doesn’t like, or do things to
him that he doesn’t like while he’s in the cage.

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" Behavior: Some rabbits love to kick litter out of the box. You can get a covered litter box (with a
hood) to help solve this problem. You can also try experimenting with different litters. Some rabbits
often back up so far in the litter box that the urine goes over the edge. A covered litter box can also
solve this problem. Another solution would be to use a dishpan or other tub with much higher sides.
Rabbits may also like to move their litter box around. You can weight it or clip it to the cage or other
stationary item to discourage this behavior.

The Litter Box

" Types of Litter: Use a litter made from plants or paper. Some brands to look for: CareFresh, Cat
Country, Critter Country, and Yesterday’s News. You can also use horse bedding such as Dry Den
(available at feed stores) or wood stove pellets. These have been heat-treated in the manufacturing
process, so they don’t present the same hazards as soft wood shavings, which can cause liver damage
in rabbits. Silica, clay, and clumping cat litters are dangerous for your bunny, and should never be
used. Corn- or wheat-based litters also should be avoided, because rabbits will often ingest them.
Placing a handful of hay in each box will encourage its use, or you can use hay as litter. It is helpful
to put several layers of newspaper under the hay to absorb urine. Most newspapers today use soy-
based ink, which is safe for your bunny. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently
(daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. This method often helps to encourage good litter habits as
well as hay consumption, since rabbits often eat at or near the same time as they use the litter box.
" Cleaning and Disposal: Clean litter boxes often to encourage your bunny to use them. Use white
vinegar to rinse out the boxes. For tough stains, let pans soak. Accidents outside of the cage can be
cleaned up with white vinegar or club soda. If the urine has already dried, you can try products like
Nature’s Miracle to remove the stain and odor. Organic litter can be composted or used as mulch.
Rabbit pills can be directly applied to plants as fertilizer.
" Number of Litter Boxes: The more the merrier, especially if your rabbit is a bit of a slow learner, or
is especially obstinate about where he wants his box(es) to go. As his habits improve, you can
decrease the number of litter boxes.

The Environment
" The Enclosure: Place the box in the corner of the enclosure that your bunny goes in. With a litter
box in the enclosure, when the rabbit is confined when you’re not home, cage time is learning time.
Hang the hayrack over the litter box since rabbits often eliminate at or near the same time they are
grazing on their hay. Don’t use litter as bedding for the cage, or your bunny will think the entire cage
is his litter box.
" Running Space: Even if your goal is to let your bunny have full run of the house, you must start
small. Start with a cage and a small running space, and when your rabbit is sufficiently well trained in
that space, gradually give him more space. But do so slowly! If you overwhelm him with too much
freedom before he’s ready, he will forget where his box is and will lose his good habits.
" Consistency: Get your bunny into a daily routine and try not to vary it. Rabbits are very habitual and
once a routine is established, they usually prefer to stick with it.
" Compromise: If your bunny continually urinates in a spot where there is no litter box, put his box
where he will use it, even if it means rearranging his cage or moving a table in the living room. It is
much easier to oblige him than to try to work against a determined rabbit!

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Safe Grooming and Handling Techniques‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

Compiled with the assistance of Dr. Carolynn Harvey, DVM
Rabbits can act as if they’re hardy creatures, but they are, in fact, extremely fragile. Care must be taken to
maintain their good health. The following basics are necessary to know in order to groom rabbits safely
and to help keep them healthy.

Shedding and Brushing

Most rabbits shed every 3 months. Every alternate
time they’ll have a light shedding that may not be
very noticeable. Next they’ll have a heavy shedding
that you will not be able to escape. Rabbits are
fastidious groomers. They insist on being clean and
tidy and will lick themselves like cats. Also like
cats, they can get hairballs if they ingest too much
hair. However, rabbits cannot vomit. If hairballs are
allowed to form they can become gigantic masses of
tangled hair and food that can block the stomach
exit, causing the rabbit to die of bloat.
Rabbits need to be brushed at least weekly. In
addition to removing any loose hair, this weekly
brushing session helps prepare them for the multiple Windy  
daily brushings that they must undergo when their She  came  to  SaveABunny  as  a  neglect  case.  This  
heavy shedding begins. is  before  she  was  groomed.  

Mats
Rabbit skin is delicate and highly susceptible to cuts, so mats in your bunny’s fur should not be cut off
with scissors. Instead, use a mat splitter or mat rake to take the mass apart. Bunny fur usually requires a
finer blade than those used for most cats and dogs.

Fleas and Mites

Safe treatments to prevent and kill fleas on rabbits include Advantage (imidocloprid), Program
(lufenuron) and Revolution (selamectin). The latter is preferred, as it is also effective against various
types of mites that cause symptoms of mange, ear canker, and dandruff. These products are available from
your rabbit-savvy veterinarian, who can explain dosage and treatment regimens to you at the time of
prescription. A flea comb is a non-toxic device that takes more patience, but is both physically and
psychologically rewarding. Most rabbits learn to love the attention of being flea combed, and it can be
used as a supplement to your main flea-control program.
The following products should NEVER be used on rabbits:
! Frontline (Apronil) has been linked to neurological damage and death in rabbits, although this
product is apparently safe for dogs and cats.
! Flea powders and shampoos, even those considered safe for cats and kittens or advertised as “rabbit
safe,” are not recommended for use on rabbits. Bathing of rabbits, in general, is strongly discouraged

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because the stress of the bath itself can cause serious health problems, and has in some cases been
linked to the death of the rabbit. Flea baths or dips are NOT recommended for this reason.
! Most environmental flea control and “bombs” are not recommended, as they may leave harmful
residue that the rabbit can ingest. Safer alternatives include borax, worked into the carpet where fleas
leave their eggs.

Skin
Scratchy, flaky skin with bald patches is usually a symptom of mites or, more rarely, are an allergic
reaction to fleas. Products described under Fleas (page 22) will usually clear up such problems. A
veterinarian should be consulted for conditions like open sores or chronic skin inflammation.

Baths
Although a rare bunny may grow up swimming in the
family pool and going on camping trips where he
paddles around the lake, most rabbits, like their
ancestors, do not relish getting wet. Even occasional
baths are quite stressful to the average rabbit, and are
not recommended. NEVER – unless your veterinarian
advises it to bring down a fever – should you give a sick
rabbit a bath. Because seemingly healthy rabbits can
have undiagnosed problems, it’s best not to subject
them to the stress of a bath. If your bunny is badly
infested with fleas, there’s a good chance that he is
already compromised and may go into shock when
bathed. There are many safe alternatives to flea control Finnegan  being  groomed  by  Candace  
(see Fleas on page 22). Also, a thoroughly wet rabbit
takes a very long time to dry, so spot cleaning the dirty
area with an application of baby cornstarch (available at any supermarket in the baby section; do NOT use
talcum, as it is carcinogenic) and then gently combing out the dirt with any flea comb is better than a wet
bath.
A wet rabbit can quickly become hypothermic. If your bunny is wet to the skin for any reason, be sure to
thoroughly blow dry the bunny until even the undercoat is dry and fluffy. Normal rabbit body temperature
ranges from 101°F to 103°F. Because rabbit skin is very delicate, and rabbits are sensitive to heat, never
use a blow dryer on a setting higher than “warm,” and constantly monitor the temperature of the air on the
rabbit’s skin by placing your hand in the air’s path.

Nails
Rabbits who spend all of their time in homes with carpeting and linoleum periodically need to have their
toenails trimmed, in the same way as dogs and cats. Because of the infection risk, declawing is definitely
NOT recommended for rabbits. If excessive digging or scratching is a problem, then a large box of hay or
straw, where bunny can pursue these activities, may help.
Rabbits’ nails can grow to be very long and sharp and can be uncomfortable for the rabbit. If the rabbit
has light-colored nails they are very easy to trim. You can see the blood inside the nail (quick) and you

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clip just before that point closer to the tip of the nail. The dark-colored nails are harder to see where they
should be clipped, but it is still visible. Nails should be trimmed every 6-8 weeks.

Feet
If the padding (fur) on the feet is worn down, exposing inflamed or callused skin, then soft dry resting
pads/rugs should be provided. Exposed skin that becomes urine-burned or broken is very likely to become
infected. Take extra care that rugs and litter boxes are kept clean and dry.

Incontinence
A rabbit with a urinary infection or a disabled older rabbit may not be able to project urine away from the
body. The result may be saturated fur around the hindquarters. For milder cases, shave the areas that get
wet so the skin can dry (remember, rabbit fur takes a long time to dry), rinse the affected areas daily, and
follow up with a dusting of corn starch (do NOT use talcum). For more infirm cases, disposable baby
diapers – turned backwards so the tabs are up – do wonders for keeping the moisture away from the skin.

Feces
Rabbits have two types of feces. Pills are the round, dry feces excreted throughout the day. Conversely,
cecotropes are a special type of feces with nutrients that rabbits excrete and consume. Many rabbits will
excrete cecotropes and consume them directly without you even noticing. Consumption of cecotropes is
natural and necessary for your bunny’s health. Serious dietary deficiencies can result if the cecotropes are
not consumed. If you see a grape-like cluster of dark green feces covered in mucous in your bunny’s litter
box that are not being consumed you need to take your bunny to the vet immediately.

Ears
Excessive ear wax can be lifted out with a cotton swab, being careful not to push on wax in the canal, or
you can try a mild ear cleaner containing Chlorhexadine, such as Nolvasan Otic. For ear mite infestation,
apply a topical medication such as Mitox. The veterinarian may also prescribe Ivermectin.

Teeth
Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously and must be checked to ensure that they are wearing down properly.
While you’re brushing your bunny or clipping his nails also look at his teeth to make sure there is not a
problem.

Eyes
Watery eyes and eye discharge needs to be diagnosed by a vet. In addition to any medications or eye
drops, the cheek needs to be kept dry and clean so the area won’t become chafed or bald. Clean tissues
will absorb mild wetness. Ophthalmic saline solution (what people use with their contacts) carefully
poured onto the cheek will crystallize the tears so that they can be removed with a clean flea comb. A
touch of prescription anesthetic powder on a finger can be applied to the area if there are painful lesions.

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Medical Concerns for Rabbits‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

The Importance of Spaying and Neutering
Unspayed female rabbits have an 80% chance of developing fatal reproductive cancer, which makes
spaying a medical necessity. For both male and female rabbits, there are significant behavioral benefits of
alteration. Spaying/neutering reduces and can sometimes eliminate hormone-related behaviors such as
cage aggression, excessive digging and chewing, and, in males, spraying urine. Spaying/neutering also
increases the success rate of litter box training. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter
your bunny with very little risk to a healthy rabbit.

Digestive Problems and Gastrointestinal Stasis

This is the number one health problem for rabbits. If your rabbit refuses his usual fresh food or any of his
special treats, seems particularly lethargic, or has stopped eliminating, you should call your rabbit’s
veterinarian right away. We encourage you to observe your bunny’s behavior, activity level and droppings
daily. Each rabbit is different and knowing what is normal behavior for your rabbit could save his life.
A healthy diet (see page 5-6) is crucial to maintaining your bunny’s healthy digestive tract. The diet
should consist of 80% fresh hay, 15% leafy green vegetables, and 5% pelleted rabbit food.

Hairballs
Rabbits shed their hair every 3 months. Every second shedding is light, followed 3 months later by a
heavy shedding. You need to brush and comb your bunny to remove loose fur when they start to shed.
Rabbits groom themselves like cats and will ingest all of the loose fur, which they cannot vomit. This is
an important factor in rabbit deaths. For this reason, besides regular grooming, they must have constant
access to fresh hay every day, as the fiber helps the hair pass through the digestive system. You can also
give your bunny cat hairball preparations such as Petromalt or Laxatone once a week when not shedding
and daily during her molt. Finally, daily exercise is a key factor in the prevention of hairballs.
Signs of hairballs – droppings will be strung together with thick strands of hair. If the problem persists,
the droppings will be free of hair and smaller because the hair is stuck in their system. The rabbit’s
stomach will get fatter but their bones will begin to protrude more because they are actually starving.
Treat the first signs with as much fiber as possible – hay, tree branches, blackberry vines (thorns and all)
and see your veterinarian.

Red Urine
Rabbits’ urine varies in color from clear to yellow to brown to bright red. This is usually not a cause for
alarm unless there are additional signs such as sitting and straining to urinate, loss of appetite or fever.
When you see red urine, don’t panic. Just keep your eyes open for other signs that might indicate a
problem. If in doubt, you can have your veterinarian test to see whether there is blood in the urine.

Cedar and Pine Shavings

These are very bad for your bunny and other pets. The aromatic hydrocarbons released by softwood
beddings can cause both respiratory and liver damage in rabbits and other small animals.

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Teeth
Rabbits’ teeth can be misaligned,
known as malocclusion, which means
that a rabbit’s constantly growing teeth
are not wearing down properly. If the
misalignment is bad, the teeth will need
to be clipped periodically so that the
rabbit can eat. Your veterinarian can do
this for you. Usually malocclusion just
strikes the front teeth, but occasionally
the back teeth can also be misaligned.
A symptom is a wet chin that is caused
by drooling. If this is the case, your
bunny will need his molars trimmed by Isha feeling fine after her
a veterinarian on a regular basis. In Closeup of a
malocclusion tooth extraction
severe cases, the teeth may need to be
extracted. Rabbits that have had tooth
extractions may need a modified diet (check with your veterinarian for guidelines), but can lead long and
happy lives.

Amoxicillin Danger
Never let a veterinarian give your bunny amoxicillin. It is a pink liquid antibiotic that smells like bubble
gum. Amoxicillin is very dangerous for rabbits, and has killed many more rabbits than it has helped. Any
penicillin-based drug can be dangerous for your bunny, so try to find a veterinarian who is knowledgeable
about rabbit-safe antibiotics, and who is familiar with the safer drugs such as Chloramphenicol,
Tetracycline, sulfa drugs like Septra or TMS, or enrofloxacins such as Baytril or Cipro.

Bacterial Infections
The first indication of an infection may be a runny nose or eye, sometimes a high temperature, sometimes
a rattling sound from the lungs or (rarely) a coughing sound. It is important to see your veterinarian as
soon as the first symptoms of any infection appear, as they are more easily cured when caught in the early
stages. The bacteria you may hear the most about is called Pasteurella. This used to be a major problem,
but with the newer antibiotics this bacteria can often be eliminated or controlled with the use of
antibiotics. Most of the symptoms described are quite common for many types of bacteria, so it is
important to have your veterinarian do a culture to identify the bug.

Surgeries
Make sure your rabbit is in good health prior to elective surgeries. Food and water should NOT be
removed from a rabbit the evening before surgery, as rabbits cannot vomit during surgery. Any change in
diet can upset a rabbit’s sensitive digestive tract and cause problems in post-operative recovery. After
surgery, make sure the rabbit’s cage is clean, and check his incision site daily for swelling or discharge.
Try to get your bunny to eat again as soon as possible after returning home. To coax him to eat again, you
may have to offer a variety of treats, including his regular pellets and hay. If your bunny has not eaten for
48 hours after surgery, consult your veterinarian.

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Is Your Rabbit Sick? ‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

Rabbits are at the bottom of the food chain and in the wild the weakest are the first to be preyed upon.
Thus, rabbits instinctively hide illnesses and injuries to avoid detection by predators. This may be a good
survival tactic in the wild, but for domestic rabbits, hiding their symptoms of illness only misleads their
caretakers and prevents prompt medical attention. People who live with rabbits need to be particularly
attentive to subtle changes in behavior or litter box habits. If your bunny usually greets you with leaps and
bounds and is now lying in the back of the cage when you approach, this could be a cause for concern.
Couple this behavior change with no droppings in his litter box and food left untouched, and you could
have a very sick rabbit.
The following information is offered as a layman’s guide to some rabbit ailments. Be sure to find a good
veterinarian before your bunny gets sick. When your bunny is ill, you will need immediate help and won’t
have time to shop for a vet. If you are ever wondering about your bunny’s health, call your veterinarian
for advice.

Symptoms to Watch for and Possible Causes

• Loss of appetite or lethargy: Even a rabbit can have a “bad hare day.” But if your bunny refuses his
usual fresh food or any of his special treats and seems particularly lethargic, you should call your
rabbit’s veterinarian right away. We encourage you to observe your bunny’s behavior, activity level,
and droppings daily. Each rabbit is different, and knowing what is normal behavior for your bunny
could save his life.
• Inability to settle into a comfortable position: Not being able to sit still and changing body
positions constantly can indicate discomfort. This may be caused by gas bubbles in your rabbit’s gut.
Rabbits can’t burp or be flatulent so gas can build up in their digestive system. Call your
veterinarian for guidance. Built up gas can slow the digestive system and become an emergency.
• Body heat: Rabbits regulate temperature by their ears. Very cold or hot ears may indicate a fever or
drop in body temperature. Coupled with other warning signs, this could warrant a trip to the vet.
• Runny eyes or nose, labored breathing, or chronic sneezing: These could indicate an upper
respiratory infection, a blocked tear duct or other problems. See your veterinarian.
• Wet chin or drooling: Usually a sign of tooth problems or malocclusion. You may also notice a
reduced appetite and difficulty eating hard foods such as whole carrot. Left untreated, tooth problems
can lead to infection of the jawbone, which is very difficult to treat. Depending on the severity, your
bunny’s teeth may need to be trimmed regularly. In severe cases, teeth can be pulled.
• Tooth grinding: Loud tooth grinding is a sure sign of pain. Note: This tooth grinding is different
from the softer “tooth purring" you may hear when you snuggle and kiss your bunny’s face.
• Obsessive licking or hanging on pen or cage by teeth: These can also be indicators of tooth pain.
• Excessive itching, scratching, or head shaking: Fleas ear mites and/or fur mites are the usual
culprits. In some ear mite cases, scabs can be seen in the ear canal. Your veterinarian will decide
what treatment is needed. If one rabbit in your house has mites, it is best to have all the rabbits
checked, as mites can be transferred easily. Flea infestations can kill rabbits, dogs and cats by
causing a deadly case of anemia. Safe treatments to prevent and kill fleas on rabbits include:
Advantage (imidicloprid), Program (lufenuron) and Revolution (selamectin). A flea comb is a non-

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toxic device that takes more patience, but is both physically and psychologically rewarding. Most
rabbits learn to love the attention of being flea combed, and it can be used as a supplement to your
main flea-control program. NEVER use Frontline (fipronil). It has been linked to neurological
damage and death in rabbits.
• Loss of balance or head tilt: This is most often a sign of wry neck, which is an inner ear infection,
but could also be an indication of E. cuniculi. This can occur very suddenly. Although treatment can
be lengthy, and improvement not noticeable for about 10 days, wry neck may be cured if treatment is
begun quickly.
• Sore hocks: This is when the fur on the rabbit’s hock, or heel, is worn down to the bare skin or, in
severe cases, to the bone. Causes are numerous, including wire cage bottoms with no resting area, a
damp resting board, wet bunny beds or dirty litter boxes. Overweight and large-breed rabbits are
particularly prone to sore hocks, as are the Rex breeds, since they do not have a lot of padding on
their feet. If there are open wounds on your bunny’s hocks or if the area is swollen, see your
veterinarian. To prevent sore hocks, give your bunny a soft, clean resting area. Also, keep your
bunny’s weight within normal range, and examine your rabbit regularly.
• Blood in the urine or straining to urinate: The two may or may not go hand in hand. While certain
foods can turn urine red, actual blood in the urine can be a sign of cancer, bladder infection or
urinary stones. If your bunny is straining to urinate or is “leaking” puddles outside the litter box, you
should be concerned. You may also notice urine scald, caused when urine-soaked fur keeps the skin
underneath damp and irritated. Antibiotics maybe needed, so take your rabbit to his veterinarian.
• In one end, out the other: Your bunny’s litter box contains a wealth of information. A healthy
digestive tract will produce large, round fecal pellets. Increasingly smaller, irregularly shaped
droppings or droppings strung together with fur (or carpet) may indicate a problem. Proper grooming
by you, especially during a molt, and plenty of fresh hay will help produce optimum digestive tract
health, along with appealing to the rabbit’s urge to chew.
• Sudden change in litter box habits: Your rabbit may not like the litter you use or may be objecting
to a change in environment – like a new housemate (human or animal), new home, or new ritual. A
rabbit may also be in pain from arthritis or an injury and can’t jump in and out of his litter box
comfortably. However, this can also be a symptom of a medical issue including kidney/bladder
infection or an E. cuniculi infection. See your veterinarian to rule out these possibilities.
• Lumps and bumps: Abscesses and tumors can be serious and should be checked right away by your
veterinarian.

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Giving Your Rabbit Medication‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗‗

Never self-medicate your rabbit. Always consult your veterinarian on prescription and non-prescription
medications. If your veterinarian suggests a treatment, ask how to administer the medicine. Often your
bunny will be perfectly behaved when your veterinarian demonstrates how to give the medication. This
good behavior does not always occur in your home. Here are some tips for medicating your rabbit:

Tips for Giving Medication

" Figure out the best place to perform the procedure. Some rabbits are most cooperative on the floor
when relaxed. Some may hop away if you fiddle with them on the floor – use a table, bed, countertop,
or lap. Make sure it is safe for your rabbit! You can wrap a particularly feisty rabbit in a bunny
burrito – place your bunny on top of a towel then wrap the towel around them and secure tightly, but
not too tightly. Wrap around their legs and body.
" Set up all of your supplies before you try to start anything or secure your rabbit. Unscrew tops,
measure medication, and load syringes before messing with your rabbit.
" Maintain a cheerful and patient attitude. If you get tense or frustrated it will only make your rabbit
more stressed. Talk to your bunny, sing songs, rub ears – do anything you can to make her feel calm.
" Develop a routine – same order, same time, same place – that way the rabbit knows when it will
happen and when it won’t.
" Disguise pills by grinding them and mixing them in applesauce, banana, or other fresh fruit. You can
also load these mixtures in a syringe. Push the syringe to the back of the rabbit’s mouth and squirt.
" Pull the lower eyelid out to form a little pocket or lift the upper lid back and drop eye drops onto the
eye. After you have added the medication you can hold the eye shut and massage it to spread it.
" Many rabbits don’t like ear drops so make sure you can secure your bunny wherever you are
performing the procedure. Get the nozzle close to the ear but do not insert it past the opening. Try not
to touch the nozzle to any part of the ear because your bunny will shake its head. Once the drops are
in, you can massage the base of the ear to help it go down.
" If your rabbit stops eating, your vet may suggest that you syringe feed your rabbit. This can be
difficult – so be patient! Secure your bunny and tuck the nozzle into the corner of your rabbit’s mouth
and aim it to the back of your rabbit’s mouth – if you don’t aim correctly, it can come out the other
side of the mouth. Keep squirting as the rabbit chews. When you have fed enough, wipe off the
mixture from the rabbit’s mouth and your work area.

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Membership Form

SaveABunny is a nonprofit organization dedicated to rescuing rabbits who are facing euthanasia.

We are passionate about finding permanent, loving new homes for rescued rabbits and educating
people about the joy of living with rabbits as indoor companions.

We rely on volunteers and the generous donations of people like you to help us save the lives of
rabbits.

Please become a member today and support our rescue and educational efforts.

Checks or Money Orders should be made out to SaveABunny and mailed to:
SaveABunny
P.O. Box 2143
Mill Valley, CA 94942

Payments can be made via PayPal from our website.

□ $15 Annual SaveABunny Membership

Additional Tax Deductible Donation

□ $25
□ $50
□ $100
□ Other $______

Name:

Address:

City: State: Zip:

Email: Phone:

On behalf of the rabbits, we thank you!

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