Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Foreword1
Feedback2
Legal information 3
Getting started 4
Installing the correct Capture One version 4
Changing the version type 5
Getting to know Capture One Pro 7
The Grand Overview 7
The image Browser in detail 10
The Viewer in detail 12
Viewing and editing multiple images 13
The Toolbar and the Cursor Tools 15
5 Cursor Tools you should know 16
Working with Tool Tabs 19
Overview of the Tool Tabs 19
Add and remove Tools from Tool Tabs 24
Removing or creating a Tool Tab 25
Taking advantage of Floating Tools 26
Getting to know tools and their icons 28
Tips for working faster with sliders 30
Saving your own Workspace 31
Customizing the keyboard shortcuts 32
The advantages of working non-destructive 34
What does non-destructive mean? 34
The benefits of working non-destructive 36
Catalogs and Sessions – what to use? 39
Being in sync with the file system 40
Pros and Cons for Catalogs and Sessions 41
File management in a Catalog 42
Moving an image to a new folder 45
Deleting an image 46
File management in a Session 48
Deleting an image from a Session 51
Moving an image file 53
Working on offline images 55
Storing files within a Catalog 56
Importing and exporting Catalogs 59
Exporting a Catalog 59
Importing a Catalog 61
Importing a Lightroom Catalog or Aperture Library 61
Importing a Session 63
Importing a Catalog into a Session 64
Adding images by Import 65
Getting to know the Import Images dialog box 65
Using the options during import 68
Supported file formats and cameras 78
How to check if your camera is supported 78
Importing and working with TIFF and PSD files 78
Importing files with Photoshop layers 79
Support of DNG raw files 80
Using DNG to import raw files not yet supported 81
Capture images by shooting tethered 82
Getting started 83
Getting the Exposure right 84
Adjust advanced camera settings 85
Naming files during capture 86
Choosing the Capture Location 87
Shooting tethered with a Catalog 89
Speed things up with Capture Adjustments 92
Adding image adjustments during capture 95
Adding Presets or Styles 96
Using the Camera tool 97
Camera Focus 97
Adding a Overlay 98
Using Live View during capture 99
Live View Navigator 100
Live View Controls 101
Camera Focus 101
Live View Info 101
Live View Focus Meter 102
Using the Camera Menu 104
Composition Mode 104
Hot Folder 104
Auto Select New Capture 105
Capture Pilot 107
Connecting an iPad or iPhone to Capture One 107
Using the Capture Pilot app 108
Connect to a web browser 109
Rename files and create folders automatic with Tokens 110
Widespread advantages of Tokens 111
Selecting a Token 111
Tips to improve Tokens 113
The most useful and powerful Tokens 114
Renaming files 125
Batch Rename Image 125
Renaming files with Text and Tokens 126
Rename using Find and Replace 127
Organizing: Culling and rating your images 128
Checking for correct focus 128
Color Tag for rejected and favorite shots 129
Deleting the rejected images 130
Rating images 131
Comparing images for rating 131
Choosing your hero shot with Compare Variant 132
Organize by using Albums 135
Creating an Album 135
Adding images to an Album 136
Populating an Album with Selects Collection 138
Removing images from an Album 139
Getting Smart with Smart Albums 140
Editing a Smart Album 142
Keeping Albums organized with Group and Projects 143
Using Projects vs Groups 144
Organize by using folders 146
Working with folders in a Catalog 147
Keeping the folder content up to date 149
Working with folders in a Session 150
Moving files within a Session 151
Changing the Capture, Selects, Output or Trash folder 152
Taking advantage of subfolders in a Capture Session 153
Use Favorites in a Session 154
Working with Variants of the same image 155
Creating new Variants 155
Organizing Variants of the same file 156
Selecting by Variant position 157
Collapsing or expanded a stack 157
Finding the right images with Filters tool 158
Adding more criteria to filter from 159
Hide and show file types to filter 161
Select by Rating, Color Tag or filenames 163
Select By Rating 163
Select By Color Tag 163
Select By Filename List 163
Selecting by same attribute 164
Adding custom keyboard shortcuts 165
Finding images with Advanced Search 166
Be aware of Global Filters 169
Search retained per collection 169
Saving a Search Preset 170
Create Albums with search results 170
Even more Advanced Search 170
Make notes with Annotations tool 173
Adding an Annotation 173
Removing an Annotation 174
Displaying annotations 174
Add Annotations to exported images 175
Keeping track of Annotated images 176
Copy and reuse Annotations 178
Working with Keywords 179
Adding keywords 179
Copying keywords 180
Renaming keywords 181
Deleting keywords 182
Saving and reusing as Preset 182
Faster workflow with Keyword Library 183
Applying a Keyword with the Keyword Library tool 183
Creating a Keyword with the Keyword Library tool 184
Working with Keyword lists 184
Exporting a Keyword List 186
Creating a keyword list outside Capture One Pro 186
Adding and using Metadata 187
Using Exif data 187
GPS location data 188
Adding IPTC metadata 188
IPTC Contact 189
IPTC Content and IPTC Image 190
IPTC Status 190
Save Metadata tags as a Preset 191
Copy and reuse Metadata 192
Metadata or keywords? 192
Keeping track of changing metadata 193
Removing metadata during export 195
Image Editing Preface 196
Getting the colors and contrast right with Base Characteristics 198
Saving as a Preset for reuse 201
Adjusting contrast with Curve 201
Taking advantage of the Linear Response Curve 202
Upgrading to a new Processing Engine 203
Changing to an older Processing Engine 204
Save your changes as defaults 205
Getting the White Balance right 206
Adjusting color temperature 207
Using the Pick White Balance cursor tool 207
Using the Kelvin and Tint slider 209
Adjusting white balance automatically 209
Adjusting white balance after Skin Tones 210
Handling more than one light source 211
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer 212
Creative uses of white balance 213
Correct vs pleasing white balance 213
Making basic adjustments with Exposure 215
Getting the exposure right 215
Using the Histogram 215
Using Exposure Warning 216
Using Color Readouts to check exposure 218
Adding Contrast 219
Adjusting Brightness 220
Adding Saturation 220
Saving as a Preset 221
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer 222
Using Dodge and Burn 222
Stacking the saturation effect 223
Optimizing the contrast with Levels 224
Setting the black and white point manually 225
Setting the black and white point automatically 225
Setting the Auto Levels Clipping Thresholds 226
Setting the black and white point from the image 227
Adjusting the midtones with the Levels tool 227
Setting output targets 228
Changing Channel Mode for scanned images 230
Using Levels to play with color 231
Saving as a Preset 232
Copy and reuse an adjustment 233
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer 233
Recovering details with High Dynamic Range 235
Adjusting Highlight and Shadow automatically 236
Saving as a Preset 237
Copy and reuse an adjustment 237
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer 238
Getting the perfect contrast with the Curve tool 239
Using RGB and Luma curves 240
Adjusting and adding a curve point 241
Deleting a curve point 242
Making precise adjustments 243
Setting the black and white point 243
Creative color adjustments 245
Saving as a Preset 246
Copy and reuse an adjustment 247
Superior Dodge and Burn 248
Using Curves and Linear Response 248
Removing color cast locally 249
Adding punch and micro-contrast with Clarity tool 250
Choosing the right method 251
Saving as a Preset 252
Copy and reuse an adjustment 252
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer 253
Improving colors with the Color Editor tool 255
Basic Tab 255
Advanced Tab introduction 256
Selecting the color range 256
Tweaking the color range selection 257
Inverting the color selection 258
Selecting all colors 259
Making the color adjustments 260
Working with Skin Tone 262
Selecting the color 262
Tweaking the color range selection 263
Making color adjustments 264
Increasing color uniformity 265
Save a color selection as mask 266
Save color adjustments as ICC Profile 267
Saving color adjustments as a Preset 268
Copy and reuse an adjustment 269
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer 270
Getting the composition right with Crop 272
Selecting an Aspect Ratio 273
Adding an Aspect Ratio 274
Readjusting a crop 274
Removing a crop 274
Setting a specific crop size 275
Controlling the image crop for export 276
Working with a crop grid as aid 277
Changing the mask opacity 278
Working with custom guides 278
Getting the angle right with Rotation & Flip 280
Getting your images level 281
Getting the image level automatically 282
Flipping the image 283
Resetting the tool 283
Copy and reuse an adjustment 283
Getting the perspective right with Keystone 284
Using the Keystone feature 284
Fine-tuning the correction 285
Readjusting the crop 286
Resetting the Keystone adjustments 286
Automatic Keystone corrections 286
Copy and reuse an adjustment 287
Save Keystone settings as a Preset 287
Optimize the details with Sharpening 288
3-step sharpening workflow 288
Sharpening is adding contrast 289
Getting the know the Sharpening tool 289
How to obtain to optimal sharpness level 292
Using the Focus tool 292
Copy and reuse an adjustment 295
Save your changes as defaults 295
Additional lens-based sharpening 295
Improving sharpness with Structure 296
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer 297
Removing noise with Noise Reductiom 298
Removing hot pixels with Single Pixel 298
Saving as a Preset 300
Copy and reuse an adjustment 301
Save your changes as defaults 301
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer 301
Fixing lens flaws with Lens Correction 303
Removing Chromatic Aberration 304
Correcting distortion 305
Correcting soft corners 306
Correcting Vignetting & Light Falloff 306
Adding Diffraction Correction 307
Hide Distorted Areas 308
Accounting for a Shift lens 308
Using a generic profile 308
Copy and reuse an adjustment 309
Disable Lens Corrections by default 309
Removing purple fringing 310
Saving as a Preset 310
Copy and reuse an adjustment 310
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer 310
Correction for lens cast with the LCC tool 311
Capturing a reference LCC image 311
Creating an LCC profile 311
Applying an LCC profile 313
Applying multiple LCC’s in a batch 313
Changing the defaults 315
Saving as a Preset 315
Copy and reuse an adjustment 316
Removing moiré 317
Saving as a Preset 319
Copy and reuse an adjustment 319
Eliminating spots and sensor dust with Spot Removal tool 320
Changing the spot type 321
Copy and reuse dust removal 322
Layers and spot removal 322
Converting to greyscale with Black & White 323
Creating a Split Tones look 324
Using Color Balance for Tri-Tone styles 325
Using a Built-In Preset as inspiration 326
Copy and reuse an adjustment 326
Tips for improving black and white adjustments 327
Adding photorealistic grain with Film Grain 329
Using a Built-In Preset 330
Copy and reuse an adjustment 330
Alternative uses for Film Grain 331
Adjusting film grain for output and print 331
Creative color styles with Color Balance 332
Adding a color tint 333
Using a Built-In Preset as inspiration 334
Copy and reuse an adjustment 334
Tips for Color Balance adjustments 335
Working efficiently with the Color Balance tool 336
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer 336
Adding a border shadow with Vignetting 338
Saving as a Preset 339
Copy and reuse an adjustment 339
Reviewing colors with Lab Readout 340
Making local adjustments with the Layers tool 342
Creating a new layer 343
Renaming a Layer 344
Creating a mask 344
Showing and hiding the mask 346
Displaying the mask in Greyscale 346
Erasing a part of the mask 348
Erasing the whole mask 349
Additional brush options 349
Using the Auto Mask feature 350
Creating a Gradient Mask 352
Using Fill Mask 353
Feathering a mask 353
Using Refine Mask to improve the mask 355
Adjusting the Opacity of a Layer 357
Reusing a mask in another Layer 358
Reposition a mask after the fact 358
Changing the Mask overlay color 359
Using a color selection to create an automatic mask 360
Repair or clone details 361
Making a local image adjustment 363
Stacking image adjustments 363
Work faster with keyboard shortcuts 364
Copy and reusing Layer adjustments 365
Adding Presets or Styles to a Layer 365
sSaving Layer Adjustments as a Style 366
Copying edits with Adjustments Clipboard 368
Selecting the source and the target images 368
Copying adjustments per tool 369
Copying all image adjustments 370
Copying Layers 372
Working faster with the Adjustments Clipboard tool 372
Applying Styles and Presets 373
Work faster with shortcuts and cursor tools 373
Saving and reusing adjustments with Styles and Presets 375
Applying Styles and Presets 375
Using Stacked Styles or Presets 376
Adding Presets or Styles to a Layer 377
Creating a Preset 378
Creating a Style 379
Saving Layer Adjustments as a Style 380
Removing and deleting a Style or Preset 381
Copying styles to other images 382
Importing and exporting Styles 383
Applying Styles and Presets during import 384
Applying Styles and Presets during tethered shooting 384
Adding a Styles and Presets menu to the Toolbar 385
Exporting images with Process Recipes 386
Selecting and creating a Process Recipe 386
Selecting the output file format 388
Using Show Recipe Proofing to perfect JPEG compression 389
Selecting the right ICC Profile color space 390
Adjusting the output resolution 391
Selecting specific image dimensions for output 391
Opening the exported images automatically 394
Controlling the image crop for export 397
Applying output sharpening during export 398
Getting the output sharpening perfect with Show Recipe Proofing 399
Controlling exported metadata 401
Adding Annotations during export 402
Adding Overlay during export 403
Adding a Watermark during export 404
Saving the Watermark as a Layer 405
Creating target folders and renaming files for export 406
Creating folders for export 406
Saving and reusing a Folder Preset 409
Note on subfolders and Process Recipe 409
Renaming files during export 410
Process images for export 413
Exporting images directly 415
Exporting original files 415
Pack files as EIP 416
Exporting processed files 417
Open and Edit files in external applications 419
Edit files in other applications 419
Selecting the file format 420
Selecting a ICC Profile/color space 421
Adjusting output resolution 422
Choosing the external application 423
Adding output sharpening 423
Adding Metadata and Annotations 424
Editing workflow in another application 425
Working with Photoshop layers in a file 425
Open files in other applications 427
File formats that Capture One Pro accept 428
Simulate the correct colors with Proof Profile 429
Selecting a Proof Profile 430
Gamut warning 431
Working with multiple profiles 431
Using Show Recipe Proofing for output 433
Printing directly from Capture One Pro 434
Setting resolution 435
Letting the printer or Capture One Pro manage the colors 436
Rendering intent 439
Selecting units and showing guides 440
Selecting and saving a print Template 441
Adjusting the print margins 441
Adjusting the print layout 442
Image settings 443
Adding a Caption to the print 444
Adding a Watermark to the printed image 444
Tip: Change Viewer background to white 446
Simulate the correct colors with Proof Profile 447
Working with multiple profiles 447
Viewing your images as a Slide Show 448
Making a Contact Sheet for Web 450
Selecting a Contact Sheet Theme 450
Adding Title, Description, and Copyright 451
Adding a caption to the images 451
Setting image size and quality 452
Exporting the Contact Sheet for Web 452
Putting it on a website 452
Backup your catalog and session data 454
Making backup of a Catalog 454
Catalog difference between Mac and Windows 456
Making backup of a Session 457
Excluding preview files from backup 458
A solid backup plan 459
Getting help 460
Feedback460
Foreword
Thank you very much for buying Photographer’s Guide to Capture One
11…
Note that I have tried to keep text and any corresponding illustrations to-
gether on the same page in order to optimize learning. This means that
some pages will end with white space even though the topic will contin-
ue on the next pages. This is a conscious choice.
After having written about photography and image editing for several
years at digitalfoto.dk, I decided it was time to start my own business. I
did some freelance work for Phase One, and during this time I made a
transition from Adobe Lightroom to fully embracing Capture One Pro as
my preferred choice for getting the best out of my raw files.
It is my sincere hope that this eBook will empower you to get the very
best out of your images with Capture One. Let the journey begin.
Yours sincerely,
Nils Wille Christoffersen
Feedback
Any feedback on how I could improve a future version of this eBook is
more than welcome. This is also that case if you believe that you have
found an error or there is something that could be explained more clear-
ly.
Please note that this eBook doesn’t include any support for the use of
Capture One.
If you need Technical Support for the Capture One software, please vis-
it http://support.phaseone.com and then under Contact Support, select
Technical Support.
Legal information
Notice of Rights
Photographer’s Guide to Capture One 11
©2018 Nils Wille Christoffersen / Wille Media. All rights reserved. No portion of this book
may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from the
publisher. For permissions contact: rawcaptureguide@outlook.com
Notice of Liability
The information in this eBook guide is provided “as is”. Under no circumstances, including
negligence, shall Nils Wille Christoffersen / Wille Media be liable for any incidental, special,
direct, indirect or consequential damages arising out of or relating to the use of the infor-
mation provided in this eBook. Nils Wille Christoffersen / Wille Media reserves the right to
change this guide’s information at any time without prior notice.
Trademarks
Capture One and Phase One are either registered trademarks or trademarks of Phase One
A/S in the European Union and/or other countries. Adobe, Lightroom, and Photoshop are
registered trademarks or trademarks of Adobe Systems Incorporated in the United States
and/or other countries. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.
Getting started
Installing the correct Capture One version
Capture One can be activated to run in four different versions. They are
all included with the same installation file, but you need to select the cor-
rect version during install as camera support and license keys are differ-
ent. These are the four versions:
1) Capture One Pro This is a full version that supports DSLRs, mirrorless
cameras (including Sony), Phase One and MamiyaLeaf Digital Backs.
Think of it as all-inclusive.
2) Capture One Pro (for Sony) This version has the exact same features
as Pro, but only support Sony cameras.
3) Capture One Express (for Sony) This basic version is free, but only
support Sony cameras. A number of the high-end features are missing
compared to Pro. There is no license needed, so you can use it without
any activation.
4) Capture One DB A full version like Pro, but it will only work with Phase
One and MamiyaLeaf Digital Backs. It is free, and no license is needed.
You can use it without any activation.
This eBook fully covers Pro, Pro (for Sony) and DB as these versions are
the same apart from the supported cameras and camera files.
If you select either the Pro or Pro (for Sony) versions, you will get the op-
tion to either run a trial, buy a license, or to activate the software with a
license key that you have already bought:
If you chose Activate, enter your License Code, and it will automatically
determine whether the key is for Pro or Pro (for Sony). Then enter your
E-mail, and click on Get Profile. You need an existing Phase One Profile
or else create a new one at phaseone.com under My Pages. Enter the
password for your Phase One Profile when asked, then finally click on
Activate…
If you need help with activating the software, please go to this support
webpage at phaseone.com.
You will now get the option to select the desired version once you start
Capture One again.
Getting to know Capture One Pro
The User Interface in Capture One Pro is very flexible and let you cus-
tomize it to your heart’s content. This is an excellent feature because
you can set things up to match the way you work most efficiently. How-
ever, before you can take full advantage of this lovely flexibility, a quick
introduction to the user interface is in order as there are a couple of es-
sential topics to be aware of.
Grid View The default viewing mode let you see all the images distribut-
ed in a grid where you can change their thumbnail size. This mode will
only show the image name, star rating and color tag.
List View This is the perfect way to get an overview of your images if
you want to look through them based on metadata like focal length, cap-
ture date or image date. If you click on one of the options in the top row,
the list will sort the images by the chosen metadata.
Filmstrip View This is similar to the Grid View but will only show the im-
ages in a single row or column. You adjust the thumbnail size by chang-
ing the overall size of the browser window.
Sort This option allows you to easily sort all
the images by metadata like date, rating, fo-
cal length and even processed state. Note
the Reverse option. This determines the
sort direction and will show either the oldest
or newest image first if you have selected to
sort by date.
Multi View This mode is the default and will allow you to view up to 12
images from your selection in the Browser and is a great way to com-
pare several photos side by side. The primary selected image will be de-
noted with a thick white border.
Primary View This Viewer mode is selected by toggling the Multi View
icon on the left off; now only the primary selected image (denoted with a
thick white border in the Browser) is displayed even if you have selected
more than one image.
Toggle Proof Margin This gives you to option to choose a wider margin
around your image in the Viewer. You can adjust the Proof Margin to
taste by going to Capture One > Preferences… and choose the Appear-
ance tab. Here you also have the option to change the background color
of the Viewer to for example white.
Readout values When you hover your mouse pointer over a part in the
image, the Viewer will show you the RGB and luminosity values, making
it easy to check for areas that might have no highlight or shadow detail
left or have a color cast. Note that you do not need to select a specific
Cursor Tool first, this feature is always on. If you have selected a CMYK
image, the values will be shown in CMYK instead of RGB.
Zoom level You can easily choose between viewing the image resized
to fit within the Viewer or being displayed at 100% by clicking on the two
icons. You can also zoom in and out by scrolling the mouse wheel or us-
ing the keyboard shortcuts Command + (plus) and Command – (minus).
Use Ctrl on Windows. If you want to zoom in or out of all the images in
the Viewer at the same time, just hold Shift down while you zoom.
This might be a bit confusing if you are new to Capture One Pro, so if
you are left wondering why a keyword is only being applied to one of
several selected images, you should always check whether you forgot to
enable Edit All Selected Variants.
You also need to be aware that only certain types of editing will be ap-
plied to several selected images even if you have enabled Edit All Se-
lected Variants. You can apply metadata like ratings, color tags, key-
words and apply Styles and Presets to multiple images at once, but it will
not work with most Tools like adjusting white balance, exposure, contrast
or color edits.
This is done to make sure that you don’t accidentally apply wide-ranging
image adjustments to a large photo collection. You can, however, easily
copy adjustments from one image to multiple other images, and we will
get back to this feature in full detail in later chapters.
Tip: If you want to change one of the selected images to be the Primary
Variant, just click on it in the Browser or Viewer. You can also solo-select
just the Primary Variant by Shift-clicking on it or go to the menu and se-
lect Edit > Select Primary Variant Only. Note that in the Edit menu you
will also find the useful Deselect All command that will clear any image
selection.
The Toolbar and the Cursor Tools
You can customize the Toolbar area by going to the menu and selecting
View > Customize Toolbar…. Now you can drag items to and from the
Toolbar to add and remove them.
There are two very useful items you might want to add right away. Styles
and Workspaces will give you a quick way to select those without having
to go through a sub-menu first. Other handy shortcuts are Capture and
Auto Adjust.
The Cursor Tools in the center of the Toolbar contains a number of es-
sential tools like the Select, Pan or Crop tools. If you click and hold on an
icon in the toolbar, you will be able to select other related Cursor Tools
from the pop-up menu.
Note that some of the Cursor Tools are used in conjunction with certain
Tools from the Tool Tab, like for example adjusting the white balance on
an image. You can activate the Pick White Balance picker from both the
Cursor Toolbar or within the White Balance Tool. This might be a bit con-
fusing if you are new to Capture One Pro, so remember to keep an eye
on what Cursor tool you currently have selected if things don’t behave
as excepted.
Tip: It can be a good practice to select the Pan Cursor Tool when you
are done working with the other Cursor Tools because Pan can’t change
anything by accident. It is only used to select images, zoom in and out
and pan around the image in the Viewer. You can easily select it by hit-
ting the keyboard shortcut H or select it temporarily by holding down the
spacebar on your keyboard.
Loupe
The Loupe Cursor tool is an excellent way to check for critical sharpness
in your images without having to zoom in first and pan around. A pow-
erful tip is that you can use the Loupe on images in the Browser without
selecting them first. You can even change the size of the Loupe tool or
change the zoom level to something else than 100% under Loupe Zoom.
Pick Focus Point
This tool is used in combination with the Focus Tool (covered in a later
chapter) to show an enlarged area of the image, typically at 100%. It is
very useful when you quickly want to check different parts of the image
at 100% while adjusting for example sharpness or noise reduction.
This is an excellent little feature of Capture One Pro that not everybody
knows about. With this cursor tool, you can add several RGB and Lumi-
nosity value readouts by clicking on the image in the Viewer. This makes
it possible to monitor a number of areas simultaneous when doing im-
age editing if you, for example, want to make sure that details won’t get
blown out or an unfortunate colorcast is being introduced. You remove
the value readouts again with the Delete Color Readout or holding
down Alt and clicking on the Readout.
The whole concept of copying certain image adjustments from one im-
age to several others will be covered in detail in later chapters, but you
should be aware of these two Cursor Tools right away. You can quick-
ly pick up all the adjustments on a certain image with the Copy Adjust-
ments Cursor and then copy them to other images by choosing the Ap-
ply Adjustments Cursor and clicking away on the images in the Browser
that you want to apply the adjustments to. It is an excellent way to apply
a specific keyword name to a person, for instance.
Working with Tool Tabs
The Tool Tabs are used to organize all the different Tools that you use
to edit the images. The Tools are like panels in Photoshop, and you can
think of the Tabs a way to group related Tools together. They can be cus-
tomized as you wish, but more on that a bit later. You can hide and show
the Tool Tabs by selecting the menu View > Hide Tools or using the key-
board shortcut Command + T (Ctrl + T on Windows).
Tip You can rearrange the order of a Tool Tab by holding down Com-
mand (Ctrl on Windows) and dragging it to a new position. You can also
select them by keyboard shortcuts. Just press Alt + Command + 1 for the
first Tab, Alt + Command + 2 for the second, and so forth. On Windows
the keyboard shortcuts are Ctrl +1, Ctrl + 2, and so forth.
The Library Tool Tab is used to navigate and organize your image collec-
tion. This tab contains the Library Tool and the Filters Tool by default.
Chapter continues on next page >
The Capture Tool Tab is where you go when you are shooting tethered.
This tab includes a powerful collection of specific tools that will allow
you to adjust the camera settings, control naming and capture location
or focus remotely during a capture session.
The Lens Tool Tab contains all the Tools you will need to correct for ex-
ample lens distortion or light falloff. This is also the place to find the tools
to crop, rotate, and apply keystone corrections to remove perspective
distortions.
The Color Tool Tab includes all the Tools that you need to adjust and
optimize the colors in your image like the White Balance, Color Editor,
Color Balance tools and even Black & White. Note the Layers tool near
the top which allows you to make localized adjustments with masks. This
tool is also available in some other Tabs.
The Exposure Tool Tab contains all the Tools that are necessary to ad-
just the exposure, contrast and light balance in your images. Here you
will find the Exposure, High Dynamic Range, Levels, Curve and the Clar-
ity tools. Note that Saturation is adjusted here within the Exposure Tool,
not under the Color Tool Tab. The Layers tool near the top allow you to
make localized adjustments with masks, and this tool is also available in
some other Tabs.
The Details Tool Tab is where you adjust image sharpness and noise re-
duction. There are also Tools to remove moiré or dust spots, and you
even have the possibility to add film grain to your images. The Layers
tool near the top allow you to make localized adjustments with masks,
and this tool is also available in some other Tabs.
The Adjustments Tool Tab is essential when you want to copy certain
adjustments from one image and apply them to multiple other photos.
The Tab contains a clipboard where you can select precisely what you
want to copy and what not. The tab also includes the Styles and Presets
Tool.
The Metadata Tool Tab is where you add Annotations, apply keywords
and add specific metadata information like copyright, title, and location.
You can also view any Exif data that the camera has recorded in the im-
age files.
The Output Tool Tab is where you go when you want to process and ex-
port your images. The Process Recipe Tool is very powerful and lets you
set a vast array of parameters from file format and quality to output fold-
ers and renaming files.
The Batch Tab shows you the queue of which images that are currently
being processed or waiting to be processed for export.
The Add Tool submenu will show all the available Tools that are current-
ly not loaded into the Tab, while the Remove Tool will only show those
Tools there are currently loaded. Note that you can also move a Tool up
or down in the Tool Tab stack by clicking and dragging it to a new loca-
tion. An orange line will indicate where it will snap.
Removing or creating a Tool Tab
You also have the option to remove a Tab entirely or create your own.
Right-click anywhere within a Tool Tab panel and choose Remove
Tab Tool > Batch, if you want to remove for example the Batch Tab, or
choose Add Tool Tab > Custom Tool Tab…, if you want to create your
own.
You can now populate it with all the Tools you want by right-clicking and
selecting Add Tool.
You can also add or remove Tool Tabs and Tools by going to the main
menu and selecting View.
Note that the same tool can be present in several different Tool Tabs at
the same time. Any adjustment you perform with a tool in one Tool Tab
will automatically be mirrored to other instances of the tool. This is al-
ready the case with the Layers tool that is present in three different Tool
Tabs by default.
Power tip: A very cool bonus of the flexibility is that you can have more
than one version of the same Tool open. For example, you can have ac-
cess to the Red, Green and Blue channels on the Curve Tool simulta-
neously. Just open three versions of the Curve Tool from the Window >
Create Floating Tool menu and then set them to show the Red, Green
and Blue channels respectively.
Note that you can collapse (and expand) the Tool content by clicking on
the arrow in front of its name, making sure it doesn’t cover the image
when not in use.
Getting to know tools and their icons
All the different Tools have a little row of icons at the top that you need
to be familiar with to get the best out of Capture One Pro.
Auto Adjust
This will apply an automatic adjustment on the image like white balance
or exposure within the Tool at hand. Note that only six tools have this
Auto Adjust feature.
Copy settings
This feature will let you copy and apply the adjustments in the tool from
one image to another. Once you have clicked on the icon, you get the
option to select which adjustments to copy. Note that if you want to copy
adjustments from several tools at once, you need to use the Adjust-
ments Clipboard Tool that is covered in full detail in a later chapter.
Tip: You can hold down Shift to copy and apply all the adjustments in the
tool immediately.
Reset
If you click this icon, all the adjustments in this Tool will be reset to de-
fault. If you hold down Alt while clicking on the icon, you will only re-
set the adjustments temporarily, giving you the possibility see a be-
fore-and-after effect of your adjustments.
Tip: If you hold down Alt and click on the Reset Adjustment icon in the
main Toolbar, you will reset all adjustments temporarily, effectively view-
ing the original image without any edits.
Presets
Here you can save your own Presets for the specific tool for later use or
select from Presets that ship built-in with Capture One Pro. Not all Tools
comes with built-in Presets. Note that Presets are per Tool only, while
Styles are a collection of different Presets. Styles will be covered in a lat-
er chapter.
Options
This pop-up menu contains a number of options for the Tool. You typi-
cally have the option to save your adjustments in the Tool as default for
the camera used or to close the Tool. There are often other options spe-
cific to the Tool at hand so it is highly recommended to check whether it
might contain a powerful setting or feature.
Finally, if you are working on two monitors, you should try out the Dual
Monitor – Large Browser or Dual Monitor – Large Viewer based on
your preferred workflow.
Note that you cannot overwrite the built-in Workspaces, you need to
save a new one.
Customizing the keyboard shortcuts
You can get a nice overview of all the default keyboard shortcuts by se-
lecting the menu Help > Keyboard Shortcut Summary and then printing
the list. A really great feature of Capture One Pro is the ability to cus-
tomize the keyboard shortcuts and even apply new ones to many com-
mands that have no shortcuts by default. You do this by going to the
menu and select Capture One 11 > Edit Keyboard Shortcuts… on the
Mac or Edit > Keyboard Shortcuts on Windows.
3
4
5
You cannot overwrite the Default set, so you need to click on Create and
then name and save a new set first. Then you simply select the com-
mand you want to add a keyboard shortcut to and press the key - or a
combination of keys 1 . If the shortcut is already used by another com-
mand or tool, you will get a warning saying so, but you can still go ahead
and change it. Certain keyboard shortcuts can’t be changed, however,
like for example Open or Close. You will get a warning if that is the case.
Note that you also have the option to duplicate a saved keyboard short-
cut set if you want to experiment with an alternative set.
Menu commands 2
You will find all the commands from the different menus at the top of the
Keyboard Shortcuts list. Some have a combination of keystrokes, so it
can be a great idea to change those you use all the time to something
that is easier to remember. The keyboard shortcut for showing and hid-
ing the Viewer is a prime candidate, and some might like to change the
shortcuts for Copy and Apply Adjustments too.
Filters commands 3
There are no keyboard shortcuts assigned by default for filtering, but
you can apply some to these commands if you want a way to quickly
view all images with a certain star rating or color tag. It can really speed
up the process of culling a large collection of images.
Cursor Tools 4
Here you can change the keyboard shortcuts for the Cursor Tools or add
one for those who have none applied yet. If you are using the Color Edi-
tor a lot, you might want to add one for the Pick Color Correction for ex-
ample.
Other 5
There are a lot of very useful commands hidden here for the power user
to tab into. You can apply keyboard shortcuts for several special com-
mands that relate to a specific tool, enabling you to adjust exposure,
white balance and sharpness by simply pressing a combination of key-
strokes. It is definitely worth spending a bit of time to go through all of
the options if you want to work faster. Pay special attention to all the
commands under Layers as some of those can speed up your workflow
a lot when working with layers and masks.
Summarize…. 6
Once you have created your perfect set of keyboard shortcuts, Capture
One Pro can automatically generate a list of all the commands that have
keystrokes applied or changed.
The advantages of working non-destructive
If you want to work efficiently in Capture One Pro, you need to under-
stand the idea behind the so-called non-destructive workflow.
The fundamental concept is that your original image files are never al-
tered. Instead, all your edits and adjustments are recorded and kept in
a separate file. This approach has several advantages that we will get
back to later in this chapter, but first, you need a basic understanding of
how a non-destructive image editor works behind the scenes.
One of the key benefits of this non-destructive workflow is that you can
always go back and tweak the Exposure or White Balance setting be-
cause it is merely a number in a database that has not yet been commit-
ted to a single pixel in the original file. You can change anything, anytime
you wish.
You might wonder how is it possible to view your changes when the
original image file isn’t being altered? This is accomplished by a preview
image that Capture One Pro creates on the fly based on the original file
and your edits. This preview file is displayed to you in the Browser and
Viewer.
Since none of your edits are ever committed to the original image file,
you need to export a copy of the file from Capture One Pro if you want
to view, edit or share the file with your adjustments applied outside the
program. One of the upsides is that you will never have to export all the
images that you just want to view inside Capture One Pro.
You can change the default resolution of the large preview size in the
Preferences.
It is possible to set the Preview Image Size resolution all the way up
to 5210 pixels. This will ensure that the images look more detailed and
sharper on a high-resolution monitor, but the generated preview files will
obviously be larger and can take longer to load.
1. Worry-free
You never have to be concerned about making a wrong adjustment that
goes too far and ruin your images because your files are always kept
safe in their original state. Not a single pixel is altered, and this is true for
both raw-files as well as JPEG, TIFF, PSD and PNG files in Capture One
Pro.
2. Full freedom
Since every edit and adjustment is basically just a text string recorded in
a database that is not yet committed, you can always go back and read-
just everything. It doesn’t matter whether you revisit the image an hour,
week or a year later, the adjustment sliders will be exactly where you left
them, and you can continue tweaking the look. You also have the option
to reset parts or all your adjustments back to the defaults at any time.
You can experiment freely without any anxiety.
3. Time Saver
A very powerful part of the non-destructive workflow is the ability to
copy adjustments from one image to multiple others with a few mouse
clicks. If you determine that the adjustments to exposure and white bal-
ance should be the same for a group of images taken under the same
light conditions, you can easily copy and apply those edits to all cap-
tures. This obviously makes editing multiple images vastly faster. Note
that you have full control over which edits you want to copy.
4. Space Saver
You can work on several virtual copies of the same image in Capture
One Pro without the headache of filling up space on your drive. Capture
One Pro calls these virtual copies for Variants, but they are all based on
the same original file. Each of these Variants can have their own, unique
adjustments, which takes up almost no extra space. This makes it easy
to have a high contrast version and a black and white variety of the
same image for example without the necessity to export the different
versions.
5. Superior edits
Capture One Pro is a raw converter at heart and having full access to
all the data in the raw file throughout your editing session will grant you
superior image quality. This is especially true when doing heavy adjust-
ments to exposure, contrast and color edits. Once you have exported
the file and opened it in for example Photoshop, data is lost, even if you
output it as a 16-bit image file. Doing as many adjustments in Capture
One Pro as possible will result in better image quality.
6. Future gains
One particularly strong feature of working with raw-files in conjunction
with the non-destructive workflow in Capture One Pro is the possibili-
ty of improving the image quality in the future. New versions of Capture
One Pro often bring better image quality in certain areas – sometimes
considerably so – which all your raw-files will then benefit from. Even
those that are ten years old. Capture One Pro will give you the option
to update its render engine to the latest version if you so wish, but you
will never need to redo all your adjustments from scratch doing that. You
might need to tweak a few sliders, but the point remains that for exam-
ple, a new noise reduction method can resurrect old images that were
unusable until now.
Catalogs and Sessions – what to use?
A powerful feature of Capture One Pro is the freedom to manage your
images using either a Catalog or a Session workflow – or even combine
those two. A Catalog is typically used to store and organize a very large
image collection, maybe even all your images, while a Session is more
geared towards working with images from a specific event, date or loca-
tion.
You create a new Catalog or Session by going to the File menu and
choosing either New Catalog… or New Session…. In both cases, you
give it a name, choose the location where to save it by clicking on the
three-dot icon, and click OK to create one.
In the case of a Session, you can ignore the subfolder names for now.
Which type should you choose? It depends, and to take full advantage
of their particular strengths, you need to understand the key differences
between them.
A Session works a lot more like a powerful file browser and will, by de-
fault, only show you the content of the currently selected folder. The
Session was originally created with a tethering workflow in mind where
you would organize files by moving them to different folders. This is why
a new Session by default creates four subfolders called Capture, Se-
lects, Output, and Trash. It is important to note that you don’t need to
populate these subfolders. You can in fact create a new, empty Session
and use it as a file system browser to view the image files in any folder
on the drive just by navigation to it with the Library tool in Capture One
Pro.
If you add a number of images to a folder with the Finder (Mac) or Win-
dows Explorer (Windows), a Session will immediately notice that the files
are added. This is because a Session will always scan the contents of
the currently selected folder. Likewise, if you delete some files from a
folder with the Finder or Windows Explorer, those will be recognized as
removed automatically by the Session.
As you might have recognized by now, handling files can be very dif-
ferent in a Catalog and a Session. Because of this, the file management
topic has been split into two chapters covering Catalogs and Sessions
respectably. The next chapter will cover Catalogs; then we will proceed
to Sessions.
Catalog
+ Keeps tracks of multiple folder locations with ease
+ Can search contents of multiple image folders
+ All edits are kept in one, central database
+ Can edit files from offline, external hard drive
- Necessary to import images first
- Files deleted via file system are not removed
Session
+ Keeps track of content in a folder-by-folder scheme
- Needs extra work (Favorites) to span multiple folders
+ All edits are saved in the same folder as the images
- Cannot edit offline files
+ No need to import
+ Files deleted via file system are automatically removed
File management in a Catalog
As mentioned in the prior chapter, a Catalog depends on its database
to keep track of the location of all files and folders. It will not by itself be
able to note which files are added or removed from folders outside Cap-
ture One Pro.
Because of this arrangement, you need to make sure that the Catalog is
always up to date with the location of your files and the content of the
image folders. This is done by following a simple rule; always add, de-
lete and move files within Capture One Pro with a Catalog. You should
add images with the Import Images feature, which will be covered in de-
tail in a later chapter.
For now, we will look at how you manage files within a Catalog. This is
done with Folders in the Library tool (located in the Library Tool Tab).
Note how Capture One Pro will only list folders with images that are im-
ported into the Catalog. You can’t browse to a folder that is not already
added. It is also worth to notice that while you can add a folder from
your hard drive by clicking on the plus (+) icon, it will actually not import
any images in the process.
So how do you make sure that the content of a folder is up to date? You
tell Capture One Pro to scan a folder for any changes. This is done by
selecting the folder, right-clicking on it, and choosing Synchronize….
Capture One Pro will now open a dialog box, giving you the option to im-
port newly added images and remove the deleted ones from the select-
ed folder.
Note that you have the option Include known subfolders to scan any
subfolders in the process, and that you can either import new images
directly or show them in the Import Images dialog box (covered in a lat-
er chapter) first with the Show importer option. You can also review the
missing images with the Show Missing Images option before you com-
mit to removing them by clicking on Sync.
Note that the right-click menu also gives you the option to locate a fold-
er. If you have moved a certain image folder with the Finder or Windows
Explorer, you will need to tell Capture One Pro the new location of that
specific folder with the Locate… command. If the Catalog has lost track
of a moved folder, you will see an exclamation icon next to it in the Li-
brary tool as a warning.
The same is true if an external drive with the folder is missing. Here the
green indicator will turn red as a warning.
Moving an image to a new folder
If you want to move some files from one folder to another, you just select
them in the Browser and drag them to the new folder in the Library tool
under Folders.
This action will move the files at the file system level, just like if you did it
from the Finder or Windows Explorer. Capture One Pro will warn you that
files are being moved, but go ahead and click Move.
Deleting an image
When you want to delete an image file from a Catalog, you have two
options. You can remove the image from the Catalog while keeping the
original file at its location on the hard drive. Or you can remove the file
as well as deleting the original file from the disk. Both options are found
in the File menu as Delete (Move to Catalog Trash) and Delete from
Disk.
This means that you can easily undo any removal. Just select the Trash,
then choose any images you want to add to the catalog again, and drag
them back into the folder where they originally came from.
Tip: If you’re not sure which folder they belong to, just right-click in the
image and choose Show in Library. Capture One Pro will then take you
to the folder where the original file is located.
You might eventually want to empty the Trash to keep things neat and
tidy. This is done by going to the main menu and selecting File > Empty
Catalog Trash…. You will now get a warning, asking you whether to just
remove the images from the Catalog or delete them from the disk.
Be aware that choosing Delete from Disk will actually delete the original,
referenced image files from your drive, so only select this option if you
want to get rid of those files for good. If you’re not sure what this means,
choose Remove from Catalog.
File management in a Session
Adding, deleting and moving files around is straightforward when work-
ing with a Session, compared to working with a Catalog. If you prefer to
do some of the file management from the Finder (Mac) or Windows Ex-
plorer, you can do so, since a Session will always scan the selected fold-
er for any changes. This means that you will never need to synchronize
folders if you add images to a folder outside Capture One Pro.
The most important action here is that you can set any folder on your
drive to be the Capture, Selects, Output or Session Trash folder. These
four subfolders are created as a part of any Session, but the different Set
as commands gives you the ability to change these to any other folder
of your choice at any given time.
You should also pay attention to the Add to Favorites command in the
menu (see next page). A Session has a central database which main pur-
pose is to make it possible to view and sort through images from several
folders at once. The only requirement is that you need to add the folders
to the Session Favorites collection first with this command.
If you then choose All Images under Session Albums, you will be able to
see and sort through all the images in the folders added under Session
Favorites.
This feature gives you some of the benefits from a Catalog workflow
combined with the advantages of a Session, and this is the reason why
some call a Session a hybrid between a pure database-driven Catalog
and a more direct file browser method.
If you really want to delete the files in the Trash subfolder, you need to
go to the File menu and choose Empty Session Trash….
Note that if you select the Delete from Disk command in the file menu,
the file will be deleted right away on your computer. It will NOT be
moved to the system trash on your computer, so be careful.
You will get a warning, saying that the action cannot be undone.
There is one important key benefit to moving files within Capture One
Pro instead of doing it on a system file level, even with a Session work-
flow. Your image adjustments associated with the file will be copied au-
tomatically to the new folder together with the original image file. If you
move an image file with the Finder or Windows Explorer, this connection
will break.
This is because a Session saves all the adjustments and previews in the
same folder as the original file are stored. Capture One Pro creates a
subfolder called CaptureOne and then saves the previews in a subfolder
called Cache while the adjustments are saved to a subfolder called Set-
tings110.
The graphic on the next page show an overview of the Session file and
folder hierarchy:
This setup means that you need to copy the associated adjustment side-
car file too when you move a file around with the Finder or Windows Ex-
plorer. If you do it within Capture One Pro, however, it will take care of
that for you.
Many take advantage of this feature to edit the files on their laptop
during for example a flight when they might not have access to the ex-
ternal drive with the original files.
This workflow is not possible with a Session because the preview files
are stored in a subfolder together with the original files on the external
hard drive. When the original file and the associated preview are re-
moved temporarily, you will see a very pixeled preview file that you can-
not edit, and you get a warning that the file is unavailable or corrupt (see
next page):
Note that when you insert the external hard drive with the original files,
Capture One Pro will notice that they are accessible again, and will re-
move the Offline warning. In the case of a Catalog, this means that your
offline edits will be applied and that your work will again be based on
the original files instead of the preview file.
The reason why you can work on an offline file with a Catalog is that the
necessary preview files are stored within the central database that con-
tains everything but the original files. If you check the file size of a big
Catalog, you will notice that the file can be up to several gigabytes in
size. Most of that is because it contains a lot of fairly big preview proxy
files.
Note that you can do any offline adjustments with a Catalog, but since
you do not have access to the full resolution and data from the original
file, it is not advisable to do heavy image adjustments by for example try-
ing to recover details in highlights or shadows. This is best done when
Capture One Pro has access to the original image, especially when you
are editing raw files. You should also note that you might not be able to
see an accurate presentation of the image when you zoom into 100%
since the preview file might not have been saved in full resolution. That
is another reason why you should not adjust critical sharpness on an of-
fline file.
Storing files within a Catalog
So far, we have assumed that the original files are always saved in lo-
cations outside the Catalog file. This is probably the workflow the most
would prefer or have been accustomed to, but Capture One Pro has a
very neat trick that especially users of Apple’s Aperture will welcome
with a sigh of relief.
You can actually store the original files within the Catalog file itself, thus
keeping everything organized in one, easy to manage file. In the Library
tool, you can move an original file from an external location to inside a
Catalog by selecting it and dragging it onto Catalog under Folders.
In this example, 41 images are stored within the Catalog file, while 10 +
175 images are stored in folders Denmark and Norway outside the cata-
log.
If you later want to extract the original files from the catalog file and
store them in a folder outside, you can just select them from Catalog un-
der Folders and drag the files onto the folder in question. They are then
moved, and Capture One Pro will make sure that any adjustments are
still associated with the files. That is another beauty of the non-destruc-
tive workflow.
Note that it is possible to add images to the catalog during import. This
is done by selecting Inside Catalog under Destination, but we will get
back to that in one of the next chapters about importing images.
There is a couple of scenarios where it might make a lot of sense to
store your images inside a Catalog, at least temporarily.
You might want to be sure that you always have access to the original
files in order to do the full suite of adjustments where the offline preview
files will simply not suffice.
Another scenario is where you need to exchange the files and adjust-
ments with other people and want to make sure that the original files
won’t go missing by an accident during a round trip.
You have the freedom to work with images stored both inside and out-
side the Catalog. This way the most important photos can always trav-
el with you on your laptop, while the rest can be stored on an external
drive and be online and offline as you wish and need.
There are drawbacks to having all of your images stored within a sin-
gle Catalog file. For starters, the file is bound to become very big, which
might not be ideal when you need to do a backup of your image collec-
tion, or you might run out of space on a SSD drive. In theory, it could also
be a risk if the catalog master file becomes corrupt. Finally, you won’t be
able to access those files outside Capture One Pro.
Importing and exporting Catalogs
It is possible to divide larger Catalogs into smaller ones or import a small
Catalog into a master Catalog if desired. This feature can help you man-
age Catalogs as working in a large one can slow things down somewhat.
Exporting a Catalog
If you want to export an entire Catalog, go to the File menu and select
Export as Catalog…. You are now asked to choose the location where
you Catalog will be stored. Pay close attention to the option Include
originals. When this is checked, the original files will be saved as dupli-
cates in the same location as the new catalog. If you select Include sub-
folders, the original file structure will be duplicated too.
Note that you do not need to include the original files, the exported Cat-
alog will still know where to find the images if they are kept at their origi-
nal location.
It is also possible to export just a part of your Catalog based on User
Collections like Albums or a specific folder for example. You do this by
right-clicking on the folder or album in the Library tool, and then select
Export as Catalog…
This is a very nice way to split a big Catalog up into more manageable
parts or is perfect if you just need to share a selection of images with
other Capture One Pro users. Note that you can right-click on a folder
and include the images within the subfolders if you remember to enable
the Include subfolders.
Importing a Catalog
Adding the images from one Catalog to another is straightforward. Just
go to the menu File > Import Catalog > Capture One Catalog…, navigate
to the Catalog file, and select it.
The imported images will stay in their original locations, and all edits and
adjustments made to them in the original Catalog will of course carry
over. Note that the preview files will be regenerated for the newly added
images.
Once you have selected one of the options, Capture One Pro show a di-
alog box, telling you what kind of image adjustments and metadata that
will be transferred together with importing the images. Make sure that
you read all the information before proceeding.
Note that if you have a very large Aperture Library or Lightroom Cata-
log with a ton of images, it is recommended to split those up into smaller
pieces first, and then import those one by one. This can greatly speed
up the process because a huge Lightroom Catalog can really put Cap-
ture One Pro to the test.
Importing a Session
You can import a Session into a Catalog, which can be the base of a very
efficient workflow. You might want to start out with culling, rating and
edit your images in a Session after each specific shoot to keep things fo-
cused or organized. Then when done, you can move your Session work
into a master Catalog. This is done by going to the menu File > Import
Session…, navigate to the Session database file, select it, and click Im-
port.
A couple of things to note when you do this. First, the images will remain
in their original subfolders in the Session master folder, so you can’t de-
lete the Session folder without deleting the original files too. You will ei-
ther have to keep the Session folders where they are or move the Ses-
sion files and folder to a new location before importing the Session. All
edits to the images will be added and saved within the Catalog.
For your convenience, Capture One Pro will recreate the folder structure
from the Session as virtual folders in the form of Albums.
For example, the Capture folder will be created as a Capture album with
the files from this subfolder included. The same goes for the Output and
Selects subfolders, which is all organized within a group called Session
Folders. Note that the Albums created in the Session is imported as well
under the Session Albums group.
If you only want to import certain images from a Session – like for exam-
ple only those in the Selects subfolder, you should instead use the Im-
port Images feature. It will let you select and import from a single folder,
and this feature will be covered in the next chapter.
One way to solve this issue is to select the images in the Catalog, go the
File menu and select Export Images > Originals…. Then select the Pack
As EIP option and export the images. This will pack the adjustments to-
gether with the original file and those be added automatically once you
open the file in a Session.
Adding images by Import
If you’re working with a Catalog, you need to import images before you
can view and edit them in Capture One Pro. You can also use the import
feature covered in this chapter to add images to a Session; the workflow
is the same. The only important distinction to keep in mind when import-
ing images is whether you are copying images from a memory card to a
drive in the process or are merely adding images that are already stored
on a drive.
When you insert a memory card with images, Capture One Pro will by
default open the Import Images dialog box if the application is already
running. Otherwise, you can always start the process of importing by go-
ing to the File menu and selecting Import Images… or by clicking on the
Import Images icon.
If you select the Exclude Duplicates option, Capture One Pro will make
sure that any images you have already imported earlier won’t get re-im-
ported. The number in the parentheses will show you how many du-
plicates there currently are, and they have been removed from the im-
age thumbnail area. This way you can tell exactly which images you are
about to import. If all images are duplicates, you will get a message say-
ing that there are “No unique images in folder” and the thumbnail area
will be blank.
In the Import To tool, the Destination drop-down menu gives you tree
options.
If you select Current Location, the images will just be imported, but not
copied to a new location in the process. Capture One Pro will instead
reference where the original image files are currently stored. This is how
you would typically add images already stored on a drive.
When you select Choose Folder…, you will be prompted to select a fold-
er where all imported images will be copied and saved to. You should al-
ways choose this option if you import images from a memory card.
Finally, if you select Inside Catalog, all the imported images will be
stored inside the Catalog masterfile.
If you chose to save the images in a folder, you will get the option to
store the images into subfolders. You can type a name into the Sub
Folder area and create hierarchical subfolders by adding a forward slash
/ between each folder name. (On Windows use a backward slash in-
stead).
There is, however, a much more powerful way to create the subfolders.
Capture One Pro can use metadata from the files to automatically cre-
ate the name of the folders by something called Tokens. These will be
explained in full detail in a later chapter, but just to give you an idea; you
can for example use the date of capture, the camera serial number or
the focal length to automatically create and name the subfolders.
Click on the tree-dotted icon to get access to the Tokens feature. In the
example above, subfolders are created by the year and month that the
images were captured with inserted Tokens. The images will be stored
in the relevant subfolder during import based on their capture date.
Sample Path will show the location path and the names of the subfold-
ers.
The default option Recent Imports Only will let you select the imported
images once they are done under the Recent Imports in the Library tool.
Note that if you choose Capture Collection, you will need to right-click
on an Album in the Library tool first and select that as the Capture Col-
lection before starting the import.
The Backup To tool makes it possible to save a duplicate set of the im-
ported images as a backup to a secondary location. Note that it doesn’t
matter whether you are copying images from a memory card or simply
adding them from a drive, you will still have this option.
Just select the Backup Enabled option and choose Select Folder… from
the Location drop-down menu and then browse to the folder where you
want to save a duplicate set of images. In a proper backup scheme, you
would want that location to be on another drive than where the primary
set of the images are stored.
The Naming tool lets you rename the files during import. If you leave this
empty, the images will simply retain their original file names.
You could type in a name in the Format field, but be aware that all the
imported files will then be called the same. Chances are that you don’t
want to do that.
Instead, Capture One Pro can use metadata from the files to automat-
ically create the names of the files by something called Tokens. These
will be explained in full detail in a later chapter, but just to give you an
idea, you can for example use the date of capture, the camera serial
number or the focal length to rename the files. If you want to rename the
files with this feature, you should click on the tree-dotted icon.
Note that if you add a Token called Job Name, you can type a job de-
scription into the Job name field and have that added as a part of the
image file names. The Sample area will show the renamed format. In
the example above, the renaming start with the Job Name and a 3 Dig-
it Counter is then added. It is a good practice to add an underscore be-
tween the Tokens to separate their data in the name.
Tip If you click on the options in the top right corner, you can reset the
counter to begin from one again, or you can set the counter to begin at
any value, like 100. You also have the option to set the increment value
to something else than 1.
The options menu also gives you the ability to Pair RAWs and JPGs
during renaming. If you have chosen to shoot in both raw and jpeg with
your camera, you will get two copies of the same capture. With this op-
tion selected, Capture One Pro will make sure to use the same naming
for those two files, making it easier to keep things organized. Note that
the files will still keep their different file extensions. This behavior is on
by default.
The Metadata tool lets you add a Copyright notice and a Description of
the event or subject for the imported images. These will then be added
as metadata to the files during the import process.
Adding a Description can be a very good idea because it provides you
with the option to automatically create file or folder names based on
that later during export. We will explore this possibility later in a separate
chapter about Tokens and dynamic locations.
You can either select a Preset or Style that comes built-in with Capture
One Pro or create your own called User Styles and User Presets and ap-
ply them. Styles and Presets are covered in detail in a later chapter, so
for now you just need to know about the possibilities. You can for exam-
ple create a Preset with all your contact and copyright info and then use
that during import to make sure all the critical info is applied from the
get-go. Note that you need to create the Preset before using the Import
Images dialog box, but more on that later.
Note that this will be based on what you have selected in the menu Ad-
justments > Auto Adjustments.
A great way to use this option is to only select Levels as an automat-
ic adjustment. This way the black and white point of the images will be
automatically adjusted during import, giving you a nice basis for quickly
judging the contrast.
If you check Include Existing Adjustments, you are making sure that
Capture One Pro copies any adjustments you might have applied to the
images prior to import. This is important if you have used a Session to
do most of the editing work, and now want to import the finished images
into a Catalog.
You can get information about a selected file’s name, date, camera and
size under File Info.
Supported file formats and cameras
Capture One Pro supports raw files from more than 400 cameras as well
as the most used image file formats such as JPEG, TIFF, and PSD.
The webpage contains a few useful notes for each camera. You can
see whether Capture One Pro supports tethered shooting as well being
able to read a live view feed from your camera. There is also information
about what kind of special raw files that Capture One Pro will import like
mRaw and sRaw for Canon, Raw-M for Nikon, uncompressed raw file for
Sony cameras or IIQ S for Phase One. Finally, there might certain fea-
tures that are not supported, like the Pixel shift mode from Pentax. It is
therefore always a good practice to check what is supported or not for
your particular camera if Capture One Pro seems to have trouble read-
ing your raw file.
Note that you can import and edit TIFF and PSD files in both 8-bit, 16-bit
and even 32-bit formats. The 32-bit support is important if you’re work-
ing on HDR (High Dynamic Range) images where multiple exposures
have been merged into a 32-bit HDR file.
This will make sure that Photoshop creates and embed a flatten version
of the image so that Capture One Pro – and other applications – can
recognize the content and effects of the layers. Note that Capture One
Pro will not have access to editing the layers, it will only be able to work
on what is the equivalent of a flattened version of the file.
It is also worth to point out that those Photoshop layers will be overwrit-
ten and lost if you export a file from Capture One Pro with either the Pro-
cess or the Edit With… commands. If you want to retain the layers, use
the Open With… command instead.
You include the original raw file during the conversion to DNG format by
selecting the Embed Original Raw File option. Note that this will make
the file size larger, so it might be a better solution to just keep the origi-
nal raw file as well as a DNG converted version.
Using DNG to import raw files not yet supported
Sometimes Adobe is faster to support the raw files from a brand-new
camera than Capture One Pro. In this case, you can often convert the
raw files to DNG with the free Adobe DNG software and import those
files. You should only use this as an intermediate solution, however, as
you will not get the proper support of colors before Capture One Pro
can access the original raw. Until then, a generic ICC Profile called DNG
File Neutral will be added in the Base Characteristics tool.
It should also be noted that you cannot use the DNG format to import
all kinds of raw files. Capture One Pro does not support medium format
cameras like the Fujifilm GXF 50S, presumably because they are com-
peting with Phase One’s own camera brand. Even if you convert those
raw files to DNG, they will not be recognized by Capture One Pro.
Capture images by shooting tethered
Capture One Pro have very powerful tools and features to shoot teth-
ered and is arguably the industry-leading solution when it comes to cap-
turing images instantly. Once you have connected a compatible camera,
you can import images as you shoot, control the camera settings directly
from within Capture One Pro, use autofocus, and enjoy a Live View feed
to get the composition just right or to check for perfect focusing.
You can shoot tethered with either a Catalog or a Session; the workflow
is essentially the same. We will cover the subtle differences between us-
ing a Catalog and a Session as we go along, but it is worth to mention
most prefer to use a Session. A Session is recommended because the
file management is much more transparent than with a Catalog and ev-
erything is kept nicely organized within one master folder that is porta-
ble and easy to share. A Session also makes it easier to work on a proj-
ect by project or client by client basis.
If you are going to capture a lot of images, you should consider creating
a new Session (or Catalog) as this will speed things up and make it easi-
er to keep everything organized.
If you are not sure whether your camera is supported, go to this weblink
at Phase One and check the list.
It will also note whether Live View is supported for your camera or not.
Getting started
Before connecting the camera, you need to make sure that you have
chosen the correct connection method in the camera’s menu system.
Check the instruction manual for this. Some cameras just work, but with
others, like a Sony, you need to make sure that the connection type is
set to PC Remote.
All the tools you need to shoot tethered is organized under the Capture
Tool Tab.
Once Capture One Pro recognizes that you have attached a supported
camera, it will show up in the Camera tool. This tool will be covered in
detail later.
Getting the Exposure right
In this example, we have used three Tokens. Note the Sample naming
at the bottom. The first Token, Document Name, inserts the name of the
Session (or Catalog). The next Token, Name, add the text you have en-
tered in the Name field. This is very useful, because you can change the
text on the fly when you start shooting a new subject, and the files will
then automatically get the correct subject naming during capture. Finally,
a 4 Digit Counter is added to make sure that the file names are unique.
It is a good practice to add an underscore between the Tokens to sepa-
rate their data in the file name, making it easier to read.
Note that the Digit Counter Token has a small triangle at the end, if you
click on it you can choose up to 6 digits. You can reset the counter back
to zero or set it to start with a specific number of your choice. Just click
on the options icon in the Next Capture Naming tool and choose Reset
Capture Counter or Set Capture Counter….
Choosing the Capture Location
If you are using a Session, the captured images will by default be saved
in the Capture folder. You can change the destination folder with the
Next Capture Location tool by choosing the Destination drop-down
menu and selecting Choose Folder….
You are then prompted to select a folder (or create a new one), and then
choose Set as Capture Folder.
Note that when you change the Capture folder, Capture One Pro will ask
whether you want to add it automatically to the Session Favorites in the
Library tool.
You should accept this because it gives you the ability to view and
search through all the images in folders marked as Favorites. Otherwise,
you can only view the images in the currently selected folder, which is a
limitation of the way a Session works.
Note how there is a small camera icon by Shot2 under Session Favor-
ites. This icon indicates that the captured images are currently being
saved to this subfolder. You can quickly change that by right-clicking on
another subfolder and choosing Set as Capture Folder.
Workflow tip:
You can let Capture One Pro automatically rename the captured files in
the fly to match that of the currently selected Capture folder. This is a
great tip to keep things organized and is done by using the special To-
ken called Destination Folder Name in the Next Capture Naming tool
(covered earlier in this chapter).
You can change this by choosing the Destination drop-down menu and
select Choose Folder…. Then browse to the desired folder or create a
new one, and select that as the destination folder.
Note that when using a Catalog, you get an extra option called Collec-
tion in the Next Capture Location tool to keep things organized during
capture. By default, all the captured images will be added to a collection
in the Library tool named after the time and date. You will find this under
Recent Captures (see next page):
As a convenient option, you can instead create a custom collection and
then choose to have all captured images added to that. You do this by
creating a collection under User Collections, right-clicking on it, and
then select Set as Capture Collection.
Note the small camera icon; it indicates that this is now the active Cap-
ture Collection.
Next, you just need to select Capture Collection from the Collection
drop-down menu in the Next Capture Location tool. If you choose this
without having selected a Capture Collection first, you will see a small
warning.
Note that you can also choose Copy from Last or Copy from Prima-
ry and the ICC Profile will then be based on what you have chosen for
the image prior to the capture or based on the primary selected image.
These options are relevant if you change the ICC Profile in the Base
Characteristics tool during the capture session (see next page):
Orientation: If the camera is unable to determine the appropriate image
orientation using its built-in sensors, you can select the correct setting
from the Orientation pop-up-menu.
Metadata: You can set up the tethered shooting to add specific metada-
ta to all captured images. For this to work, you first need to select an im-
age (for example a test shot) and assign the required keywords, ratings
or IPTC metadata to it using the tools located under the Metadata Tool
Tab. Then return to the Next Capture Adjustments tool, and from the
Metadata drop-down menu, select Copy from Last, which will then copy
all the assigned metadata you just made to all the following captures.
Note that you can also narrow down which metadata that you want to
copy to the sequential captures by selecting the Copy specific from
Last…. This will give you a list of Metadata options that you can check
and uncheck depending on whether those should be copied going for-
ward (see next page):
The option to use Copy from Clipboard might also be very useful. This
feature will apply metadata based on what adjustments you have select-
ed in the Adjustments Clipboard tool (covered in detail in a later chap-
ter). This feature makes it easy to check and uncheck certain metadata
as you go along, depending on what is appropriate for the current cap-
tures.
The Copy from Last option means that if you have made some ad-
justments with for instance the White Balance tool, Exposure tool and
Curve tool on the latest image, those settings will automatically be ap-
plied to all captures going forward. In other words, the image adjust-
ments are “sticky” and will be applied to all new captures, until some-
thing is changed.
If you do not want those adjustments to be applied to the next captures,
you should choose Defaults to disable this feature. Note that you have
the same options to choose Copy specific from Last… and Copy from
Clipboard as in the Metadata drop-down menu. They work the same
way and can be very useful if you only want certain adjustments like
white balance, crop or exposure to be applied to all captured images.
Adding Presets or Styles
If you wish to assign a specific Style or Preset to all the captures, just
choose the desired one from the Styles drop-down menu. You can
choose both user-created ones, as well as the built-in ones that ship
with Capture One Pro.
Note that if you want to apply more than one, you need to select Stack
Styles. This comes in handy when you for example want to combine sev-
eral User Presets with different keywords or metadata.
Auto Alignment
This feature will automatically straighten the image on capture if Capture
One Pro receive information from the camera about any rotation or pitch.
This is only supported by Phase One XF cameras. If selected, the image
will be rotated slightly to be level. Some cropping will happen as part of
this, but it can be adjusted after the fact with the Rotation & Flip tool and
the Crop tool.
Using the Camera tool
The Camera tool lets you adjust the basic camera settings like Exposure
Program, Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO value and file format. The op-
tions depend on the camera. You can only change the settings that have
a light grey outline, those with a darker grey need to be adjusted directly
on the camera.
You can capture an image by either clicking on the big Capture button
or press Command + K (Mac) or Ctrl + K (Windows). Once you have made
a test shot, it is easy to set the white balance correction. This is done by
choosing the White Balance eyedropper in Camera tool and clicking on
a neutral gray area of the image in the Viewer. Note the icon with a cam-
era on. It actives a Live View feed, and we will cover that feature in de-
tail later.
Camera Focus
You can control focus from the Camera Focus tool that accessible in
both the Capture tab and the Live View window (covered later).
Depending on your camera, you might only have the option to autofo-
cus by clicking on the AF icon, while other cameras allow you to man-
ually move the plane of focus. If manual focus is available, clicking on
one of the six Camera Focus arrow buttons will adjust focus closer to
the camera under Near or further away from the camera under Far. The
single-arrow icons for small focus increments, while the double- and tri-
ple-arrow icons are for larger movements.
It makes the most sense to use this feature when in the Live View win-
dow (covered later) where you can observe any change to the focus im-
mediately. On some cameras, you can zoom into the image in Live View
to check for critical sharpness and then fine-tune the plane of focus.
If your camera doesn’t support the manual focus control, like with Sony,
you can instead select Manual Focus on the camera and turn the focus
ring on the lens. Depending on your camera settings, this will activate
the magnified focus area on the Sony which will be mirrored in the Live
View feed, making it easy to fine-tune focus manually on Sony cameras
too.
Adding a Overlay
To aid composition when shooting tethered, you can insert a graphic file
as an overlay on a captured image or the Live View feed with the Over-
lay tool. You insert the composition aid file by clicking the File browse
(...) or dragging and dropping the file into the specified area. This feature
can be handy if you need to shoot a subject that should fit within a mag-
azine cover with text for example.
You can adjust the opacity of the inserted graphics file with the Opacity
slider, as well as scale and position the overlay with the Scale, Horizon-
tal and Vertical sliders. You can also click on the hand icon and move
the overlay directly on the image. Once done, you can hide and show
the overlay by clicking on Show.
Using Live View during capture
Capture One Pro’s Live View feature is an excellent way to capture test
shots and checking for critical focus. Click on the Live View button (mov-
ie camera icon) to open a Live View window.
Note that there are two tabs, Live View, and Capture.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
At the top of the Live View window, there is a toolbar and some cursor
tools that are helpful to know about.
2 Here you can turn the Overlay on or off as an aid to get the
composition right. Read about the tool above on how to
load a graphics as an overlay.
4 With this option, you can choose between a live view image
in colors (RGB) or a greyscale. Greyscale can make the com-
position easier as there are no colors to distract.
1 2 3 4
This tool should be self-explanatory. If you have zoomed into the image,
the Live View Navigator tool gives an overview of where you are cur-
rently. You can click on another area in the window to check for focus on
that part of the image.
Live View Controls
This tool lets you orient the Live View feed with the Orientation drop-
down menu in case it does not align the way you want. You can also ad-
just the Lightness slider to make the Live View feed darker or brighter.
Some cameras support the ability to adjust the Live View image quality.
Higher levels will update the image slower. Finally, you can pause and
start the Live View feed. It might be a good idea to pause the feed when
you’re not using it for a longer period, as it will use battery power on the
camera.
Camera Focus
See the part about this tool earlier in the chapter for an explanation on
how to use it.
Live View Info
This tool is only supported on Phase One XF cameras. It will read the 3D
sensors on the camera and show you whether it is level or not. Note that
Capture One Pro can use this information to adjust rotation and apply
perspective correction automatically on files captured with a XF camera.
You activate the tool by clicking on the Focus Meter icon, then click on
the Live View window’s viewer to set a focus area. You can add up to
three different Focus Meter areas so it makes sense to select both the
nearest and furthest points that need to be in acceptable focus together
with the part that must have critical sharpness.
You can adjust the size of the focus meter area by dragging the orange
frame to make sure that it only gives feedback on an important part of
the subject. Note that since the feature looks for high contrast to indi-
cate a well-focused area, you should place and limit the Focus Meter to
areas with detail and/or distinct edges.
Once you have added the Focus Meter areas, slowly turn the focus
ring on the lens while observing the meter readouts. The optimal focus
is represented as an orange-colored marker at the end, and you have
achieved optimal focus once the main white colored part of meter peaks
at, or close to, this orange marker.
The tool is a great way to find the best focus point that achieves good
sharpness for both the near and far points on the subject. Just turn the
focus ring until the Focus Meter readouts for both reach the orange
marker. If that isn’t possible, you will need to expand the depth of field
by closing the camera’s aperture down.
Overlay
See the part about this tool earlier in the chapter for an explanation on
how to use it.
Composition Mode
This mode allows you to shoot multiple test shots without filling up hard
drive space because each new capture overwrites the previous image. It
is meant to be used on test shots only while you work on the light setup
and composition.
Once activated, six icons will be displayed over the image as a warning
that Composition Mode is on and all images will be overwritten. Remem-
ber to deselect Composition Mode in the Camera menu to turn it off be-
fore starting your proper captures.
Hot Folder
If Capture One Pro does not support shooting tethering with your cam-
era, you can still use most of the capture features. Your camera might
come with its own tethering application that you can use to capture the
images to a specific folder on the fly.
If you are using a Session, you just need to navigate to that specific fold-
er under System Folders in the Library tool, right-click on it and select
Set as Capture Folder. Capture One Pro will now continuously add the
images from that location as if it was a native tethered shooting.
If you are using a Catalog, you instead need to use the so-called Hot
Folder feature. Go to the Camera menu and chose Select Hot Folder….
and then browse to the folder where the images are captured to, and se-
lect Open. Next, remember to select and enable Hot Folder Enabled in
the Camera menu.
Never will show the same image without updating the Viewer when new
shots are captured.
Immediately displays a fast-rendered preview without any adjustments
applied. It will then proceed to re-render the preview with any adjust-
ments that should be applied, like white balance. This option makes
sense if you want to work as fast as possible.
When ready displays a high-quality preview with all the adjustments ap-
plied. This is slower, but you will get the proper white balance and expo-
sure from the start.
Auto Pause will keep showing the same selected image even when
newer files are captured. This might be valuable if you need to check fo-
cus on a specific image. The image isn’t updated until the option is de-
selected again.
Note that you can also select the options in the Camera menu from the
Camera tool. Just click on the options menu in the top-right corner to
open the menu.
Under the Mobile Tab in the Capture Pilot tool, you can choose which
permissions you want to grant people that are using the Capture Pilot
app. You might for example want to uncheck Adjust images and Capture
images, if you prefer to be in full control of those.
Using the Capture Pilot app
Open the Capture Pilot app on the iPad or iPhone and select the name
Server from the Server List.
Tap on an image to view it full screen. You control the app by tapping on
the icons at the bottom. The Camera icon opens the Camera window
where you can adjust basic settings and capture the next image. The
next icon opens a histogram that you can select and move to another
location on the screen. The Star icon opens a little row that let you set
the color tag and star rating of the current image. Finally, you can set the
white balance by tapping on the picker icon. Once activated, you tap on
a specific area on the image to set the white balance from that part. On
the right side, you can move through the captured images.
to a recipient.
Under the Web tab in the Capture Pilot tool, you can choose how to dis-
play the captured images with the Theme drop-down menu.
Capture Pilot Classic will show the images as thumbnails which you se-
lect to view full screen, while Fullscreen is the other way around with a
large image center and a film strip at the bottom. You can also choose
which permissions you want to grant people that are using the web
browser interface. You can deselect the Rate Images and Color Tag Im-
ages.
To access the web browser capture session, the recipient just needs
to click on the link they have received in their email. Note that the web
browser feature is designed to work on a local network.
Rename files and create folders
automatic with Tokens
Capture One Pro has a very powerful feature that can rename files or
create folders automatically based on metadata like capture date, star
Rating or Color Tag. You do this with the so-called Tokens, and the fea-
ture is particularly useful when you are exporting images because it al-
lows you to keep the files organized and easy to identify outside Cap-
ture One. It can be a big timesaver, so it is well worth to learn about.
You now need to share the images with a client or art director for them
to review. By using the Tokens feature, you can easily setup Capture
One Pro to export all the images in folders and subfolders so that your
labeling and rating can easily be recognized by others. Tokens will ap-
pear as a grey box with white text as shown with the Collection Name
and the Rating tokens used here:
In this example, Capture One Pro has created top folders for each Al-
bum (the Collection Name is based on the name of the albums), and
within each of these folders, subfolders are created and named by the
different Ratings. Each image is then automatically put into the right sub-
folder during export. So, the product shot of the red rose that you have
rated as a 4-star shot will be saved in the 4_Stars subfolder within the
Red Rose top folder.
Hopefully, you can now see how Tokens can save a ton of time when
you need to export 200 images and organize them in specific folders
while also renaming them.
This concept of creating folders and saving the files within them auto-
matically is called Dynamic Locations by the Capture One Pro team.
Things can be much more powerful than in this simple example, and this
chapter will explore a lot of the possibilities.
• Import Images
• Capture (tethering)
• Batch Rename
• Process Output
• Watermark
With most of these features, you can both rename the files as well as
creating folders and subfolders automatically based on the metadata.
The Batch Rename, Process Output, and Watermark will be covered in
later chapters.
Selecting a Token
If you can use a Token in Capture One Pro, you will see a rectangle with
tree-dots at the end of a Format, Sub Folder or Sub Name text field.
When you click on that icon, the Tokens dialog box appears. You can
also just start typing in the text field, and the matching Tokens will ap-
pear, but this is mainly for power users. If you are new to the concept, it
is recommended to start out in the Tokens dialog box, which we will look
at now.
5
3
4
2
1
1 Tokens This list contains all the Tokens that you can use. Dou-
ble-click on a Token to use it, or click and drag it onto the For-
mat field.
3 Format You drag any Tokens you want to use into the area. You
can also type in some additional text to make a Token more de-
scriptive.
4 Sample This will show you an example of how the file or folder
name will be composed.
You should take advantage of the possibility to type in some text in front
of or after certain Tokens to make sure that the inserted data makes
sense. You can for example add “Stars” after the Rating-token so that
your output is more than just a number. Likewise, you might also want to
add Year in front of a Year-token, so the number is put in proper context.
You should be aware that you cannot currently use Keywords as a To-
ken. The reason is that Capture One Pro wouldn’t know which of the
keywords to add if you have applied several or are using hierarchical
keywords (more on that in a later chapter). One way to circumvent this
limitation is to add a Description, Scene or Location annotation to the
image with the Metadata tool and then use the corresponding Token.
1 Digit Counter
This is probably one of the Tokens that you will use the most since it
adds a sequence of numbers to a file name. If you click on the little ar-
row on this Token, you can choose up to 6 digits. Note that this Token is
only possible when rename files, not with creating folders.
Clipboard Contents
A very useful Token because it will paste in whatever text you have cop-
ied to the clipboard on your computer. If you for example have a text file
with all the model or product names, you can copy those tags one by
one while you capture or output files of the model or product and then
having the proper names applied as you go along.
Collection Name
This is a powerful way to reuse your organization of the files in Capture
One Pro when you output them. This Token simply takes the name a se-
lected Collection like an Album, a Sessions Folder or a Smart Album
(more on those in a later chapter) and either rename a file or create a
new folder with the name. Note that you need to select the desired Col-
lection in the Library tool first for it to use this name.
Job Name
Note that the metadata for this Token should be added within the Import
Images dialog box to work, but it gives you the option to add a common
description for those imported images to reuse in file or folder names.
These Tokens cover arguably that most used way to organize images,
namely by date and time. You can select 12 different Tokens that are ei-
ther based on the image date or the current date. Note that you can
combine for example Image Year and Image Month Tokens if you don’t
want to include the day. Remember that you can change the time format
by clicking on the little arrow on the Tokens.
While basic, the Rating and Color Tag Tokens are extremely useful. It
makes the most sense to use these to create folders and subfolders
during output, so other people can quickly identify which images you
consider the best and which you regard as rejects that should be delet-
ed. Most use the Green Color Tag for the top-rated images, and the Red
for those that should be deleted.
Format
A very handy Token when you want to separate raw and jpeg files into
different subfolders during import or export.
Image Name
This Token reuses the name of the file. This can be useful if you need to
create subfolders based on the image name or want to rename files but
still want to keep the original name as a part of the syntax.
Metadata - Vendor Specific
Camera Serial
This Token can be very useful if you have shared a memory card with
another photographer or are using two cameras and need to separate
the images into different folders based on the cameras different serial
numbers.
Lens
Sometimes it might be useful to separate or name images based on the
lens used. This Token will obviously help you with that.
Sequence ID
This Token is for XF Camera users and lets you rename or organize the
output of your images into folders by Sequence ID. A XF Camera re-
cords a Sequence ID number into the files when shooting for example a
focus stacking or a time-lapse sequence. This way the XF Camera and
Capture One Pro will know that certain images are part of one, specific
shot. This is particularly useful when you want to merge images from fo-
cus stacking with Helicon Focus.
Metadata - EXIF - Camera
These Tokens can be useful if you need to separate your files into dif-
ferent folders depending on what camera model you have used or what
Owner metadata that the camera has embedded into the files. The Own-
er data can also be used as a part of renaming the files.
All of the metadata content that you have entered into the IPTC Contact
part of the Metadata tool can be used as Tokens too. This way you can
reuse your Creator, Address, Phones or even Websites data to rename
files or create folders. This could be useful if you want to be sure that
the people receiving the files never mistakes where the files are coming
from. The Creator Tokens is also great when you want to embed your
name as a Watermark on your exported files.
There are a couple of very nice Tokens to use within this group because
you can use Image City, Image Country, and Scene or Location to gen-
erate names and folders. Just remember to enter this information with
the Metadata tool first in the IPTC – Image part.
If you want to create folders or name files based on Tokens like Copy-
right Notice or Instructions, you need to enter that data in the IPTC –
Status part of the Metadata tool. Most of these Tokens are specialized
but keep them in mind as they might be able to solve a specific task
down the line.
Renaming files
It probably makes the most sense to rename your files while importing
images or shooting tethered. We have already covered how you can use
Tokens to automatically rename files based on metadata in earlier chap-
ters. The same concept can be used when you are exporting images
with the Process Recipe feature that will be covered in a later chapter.
You can, however, rename a file in Capture One Pro at any point. If you
just need to rename a single file, select it in the Browser and either go
the File menu and select Rename Image or click on the name below the
image in the Browser.
You can now type in a new name and hit Enter when you’re done. The
original file will change its filename on the system level just as if you re-
named it with the Finder or the Window Explorer.
If you are using a Catalog, you will now be greeted by a warning. It re-
minds you that any renamed files can lose their reference if used out-
side the current catalog.
This can be an issue if you have added the same files to another Cata-
log, otherwise just click on Continue….
In the Batch Renaming tool, you can now choose whether you want to
rename the files based on Text and Tokens or want to perform a Find
and Replace. This is done from the Method drop-down menu.
You can just enter a basic text name in the Format field if you wish, but
there is a more powerful solution. Capture One Pro can use metadata to
automatically create the names of the files by something called Tokens.
These was explained in full detail in a prior chapter, but you can for ex-
ample use the date of capture to rename the files automatically. You get
access to the Tokens by clicking on the tree-dotted icon at the end of
the Format field (see next page):
In the example above, we have used tree Tokens. The first Token, Doc-
ument Name, inserts the name of the Session (or Catalog). The next To-
ken, Job Name, add the text you have entered in the Job Name field be-
low. Finally, a 3 Digit Counter is added to make sure that the file names
are unique. Remember to add an underscore between the Tokens to
separate their data in the file name, making it easier to read. When
ready, click on Rename.
Tip: Instead of renaming the files during import, it might make sense to
wait until you have rated the images or done other tasks of the organiza-
tion. The benefit of waiting and using Batch Rename Images is that you
will have more metadata to use in conjunction with the Tokens, making it
possible to construct more advanced renaming schemes.
Rename using Find and Replace
The Find and Replace feature is obviously the best solution when you
want to replace a certain part of a filename with another. Note that you
will need to select all the images that Capture One Pro should perform
the action on before using the Batch Rename Tool. Images that are not
selected in the Browser will not be included.
Once ready, just type in the current and the desired text in the Find and
Replace fields. Capture One Pro will show you an example of the re-
placed name in Sample.
Note that the feature will not replace the entire original filename. It will
only change the part of the name that you have entered in the Find field.
Click Rename when ready.
Organizing: Culling and rating your images
The first step in getting your image collection organized is to rate them
and find out which are keepers and which should be deleted. Capture
One Pro has a couple of very nice features that can speed up this part of
the workflow which we will explore in this chapter.
By default, the color of the Focus Mask is green, but you can change
this under Preferences in the Focus tab. Here you also have the option
to change the Threshold for how sharp the detail needs to be before to
mask overlay shows.
You can also add the Color Tags by going to the Ad-
justments menu and selecting Color Tag and then
the desired tag or add it by clicking on the little
square box under the image in the Viewer or Brows-
er. Keyboard shortcuts are just much faster for most
people to use.
You should note that you can change or add keyboard shortcuts to the
Color Tags if you want to expand on their usefulness. You might for ex-
ample want to use the Blue Color Tag to indicate that those images
need to be processed or Orange for those you are not quite ready to
delete just yet. You change the keyboard shortcuts by going to the menu
and selecting Capture One > Edit Keyboard Shortcuts… on the Mac or
Edit > Keyboard Shortcuts on Windows. You will find the commands un-
der Adjustments > Color tag in the Edit Keyboard Shortcuts dialog box.
Note that if you have selected multiple images, the Color Tag is only
added to the Primary Variant, unless you have enabled Edit All Selected
Variants from the Edit menu. So always keep an eye on that.
The Primary Variant is the image with the thick white border in the
Browser.
Now all those images with the Red tag will be selected, and you can se-
lect File > Move to Catalog Trash (in a Catalog) or File > Move to Trash
(In a Session) or just hit Delete.
Rating images
Most people like to rate their image collection with some granulari-
ty by using star ratings, and this is done very fast with keyboard short-
cuts: They are very easy to remember; hitting the number 4 will apply a
star-rating of four, and so forth.
Note that if you have selected multiple images, the Rating is only added
to the Primary Variant, unless you have enabled Edit All Selected Vari-
ants from the Edit menu. The Primary Variant is the image with the thick
white border in the Browser.
You select a different image loaded in the Viewer with the arrows on
your keyboard and then hit a number for the desired rating. The rating
will be added to the Primary Variant that has a thick, white border in the
Viewer. You need be sure you have not enabled Edit All Selected Vari-
ants in the Edit menu. Otherwise, ALL of the selected images will get the
same rating.
The concept of Sets means that you can rate an entire collection very
quickly using just your keyboard. So, to recap the Next Set workflow:
You select four images, then move through them with the arrow keys
while applying a star Rating to each one by tapping a number from 1 to
5. You can obviously also add Color Tags while doing this. When done,
you move on to the next four images set by hitting the Alt + right key,
and then apply ratings to these four images, and so forth.
Note that you can use keyboard shortcuts to move back to the previ-
ous set by using the Alt + left key. The Edit menu will also show you the
needed keyboard shortcuts for selecting the first or the last image in
your selection.
Note that if no image selected, the Select First and Select Last command
will go to the very first and last image in your collection.
Note that can you can combine the Compare Variant and the Next Set
features in order to review more than one image side by side with your
hero candidate. You add more than one image by Shift-clicking on them
in the Browser. When you choose Select Next Set, the Compare Variant
will remain in the Viewer while the rest of the images are replaced.
Remember that you can always add a Color Tag or a star-rating to the
selected image with the keyboard shortcuts while going through the im-
age collection.
Tip You can change the orange border of a Compare Variant to another
color in the Preferences under Appearance with the Compare Variant
Color option. Here you can also change to color of the Selected Variant
from white if you wish.
Organize by using Albums
Albums are a great way to keep a large image collection organized.
Think of an Album as a virtual folder, where you collect images that have
something in common, for example an event, a subject, a person or a lo-
cation.
Creating an Album
You create an Album within the Library tool by clicking on the + icon un-
der User Collections in a Catalog (or under Session Albums in a Ses-
sion) and select Album. It is also possible to right-click within the Library
tool and select New > Album.
You can now give the Album a name and select whether you want to
add the images that are currently selected to the new Album with the
Add selected images after creation option. You can also choose to auto-
matically choose the Album with the Select collection after creation op-
tion.
Adding images to an Album
There is a number of ways to add images to an album. You can select
images in the Browser and drag them onto the Album under User Col-
lections, but there are other methods that are faster in most circum-
stances.
You can select all the images for your Album in the browser first, then
right-click on them and choose Create Albums From > Selection…
You will be greeted by the same dialog box as above. Just remember to
check the Add selected images after creation box, and the Album with
the images will be created.
Note that you can also create albums based on Rating, Color Tag or Se-
quence ID via the Create Albums From submenu:
When doing so, Capture One Pro will create a number of Albums that
are named after the applied Ratings, Color Tags or Sequence ID’s includ-
ed in your selection of images.
The Albums will be arranged together in a Group named after the time
and date when you use this command:
You can always rename any of these groups to just “Rating” or “Color
Tag.” It is, however, recommended to use Smart Albums instead to orga-
nize by Rating or Color Tag. More on Smart Albums in a little while.
Note that an icon with an arrow is added to inform you which Album is
currently the Selects Collection. Now you can easily add any selected
image(s) to the Selects Collection Album just by hitting the keyboard
shortcut Command + J. You can also use the cursor tool Move to Selects
Folder (keyboard shortcut Shift + V) from the Toolbar.
Then simply click on the images in the Browser that you want to add to
the Album.
Removing images from an Album
It is straightforward to remove an image from an Album. Make sure that
you have selected the Album under User Collections (Catalog) or Ses-
sion Albums (Session), then select the image and hit Delete. You can
also right-click on the image in the Browser and choose Delete (from Al-
bum xxx).
Note that if you drag an image that is already part of one Album to an-
other Album, the image will be included in both Albums.
Workflow Tip It can be a great help to narrow down the selection of your
images before adding them to an Album. This is done with the Filters
tool or Advanced Search where you can easily find for example all the
images with a certain keyword or from a specific date. Both the Filters
tool and Advanced Search will be covered in a later chapter so hold the
thought of creating Album based on more specific metadata for now.
It will make sense in conjunction with the features that Filters and Ad-
vanced Search provides.
You create a Smart Album within the Library tool by clicking on the +
icon under User Collections in a Catalog (or under Session Albums in a
Session) and select Smart Album.
You can also right-click within the Library tool and select New > Smart
Album…. A dialog box now appears where you name the Smart Album
and define what to search for (see next page):
You need to add at least one Search Criteria first by clicking on the +
icon. You then choose a Criteria from a long list of different metadata in
a drop-down menu. Here we have selected Rating. Next, you can refine
the search criteria. In this case, we have selected 3 stars by clicking on
the row of dots. Note that we have also tweaked the search criteria to “is
greater than” from the default “equals” in order to populate the Smart
Album collection with all images that are rated with four or five stars.
In this example, we have also added a second Search Criteria with Col-
or Tag and defined that as the Green color tag by clicking on it. The
Match-option in the top-left is set to all, so we are only going to populate
the Smart Album with images that have a Green Color Tag and is rated
at four or five stars. When done, click on OK to create it.
You can choose from a vast list of possible Search Criteria. The most
useful of them rely on metadata that you must add first like Rating, Key-
words and the so-called IPTC metadata. You will learn more about add-
ing them in later chapters, so for now here is a small list of the possibili-
ties to get your imagination going.
• Color Tag • Focal Length
• Annotations • Geotagged
• Date • Content Category
• Format • Content Description
• Keywords • Image City
• Processed • Image Country
• Rating • Image Location
• Sequence ID
Certain Search Criteria, like the time and date of capture and Exif-data
embedded in the image file, can be used right away of course.
Note that you can save your search set up by clicking on the Presets…
drop-down menu and selecting Save Search Preset….
Capture One Pro also ships with a couple of built-in Search Presets that
you can select here.
Be aware that you cannot remove an image from a Smart Album manu-
ally. If you hit Delete, you will be warned that you are about to remove
the file from the Catalog or delete it. You can only remove an image by
changing its attributes, so they no longer match the Search Criteria in
the Smart Album.
You create a Project or a Group within the Library tool by clicking on the
+ icon under User Collections in a Catalog and select one of them.
It is also possible to right-click within the Library tool and select New >
Project or New > Group. Note that a Session does not have to option to
create a Project or a Group.
A Group does not have this walled approach, so if you create a Smart Al-
bum within a Group, it will also find images outside the collection too.
It is however important to point out that Capture One will not show any
images when you select a Group under User Collections, even if you
have added Albums with images as part of the group. This also means
that you cannot search through or filter images when a Group is select-
ed. You will instead need to add a Project first and move the Group in-
side it. You can then select the Project under User Collections and see
all the images added to albums placed within the project and group.
You should also be aware that you cannot select more than one Album
at a time: If you want to view the content of multiple Albums, you will
need to create a Project first and place the desired Albums within it. A
Group is merely meant as a way to keep multiple Albums organized, so
keep this in mind.
Note that you can always move a Group or Project (or Album) around by
dragging them in the Library tool if you want to change the way they are
organized. Just note that if you delete a Group or Project, the Albums
within will be deleted too, and you cannot undo this action.
Note that you can collapse or expand a Group or Project to hide or show
its contents by clicking on the little arrow on the left or by going to the
Edit menu and choose Select Collection and then either Step Out / Col-
lapse or Step In / Expand. Note their keyboard shortcuts:
This submenu also shows you the useful commands Previous Collection
and Next Collection that let you move between collections with the use
of their keyboard shortcuts Ctrl + Shift + W and Ctrl + Shift + S. This can
be very handy when you need to switch between certain collections of-
ten or quickly.
Organize by using folders
Capture One Pro gives you a lot of options to manage your image col-
lection, but sometimes you just want to keep things simple and only
view images within a certain folder. This is done within the Library tool
by selecting the desired folder under Folders if you are using a Catalog
or System Folders if you are using a Session.
A Catalog will only show folders that contain images that you have al-
ready imported, while a Session behaves more like a file browser and let
you navigate to any folder on your hard drive, even if they do not con-
tain any images. For this reason, the feature is called System Folders in
a Session and just Folders in a Catalog.
You should notice that you can only view the content of one folder at a
time, there is no way to select more than one folder or to view all the im-
ages within subfolders. You can make it a bit easier to navigate the fold-
ers by right-clicking and choosing Hide Folders Hierarchy.
You also get access to a couple of other useful folder commands like Re-
name and Show in Finder when you right-click on a folder.
If you rename a folder, it will be renamed on the file system level, and
this is important to be aware of if you have another Catalog that contains
images from that folder. Once renamed, the folder link will be broken in
the other Catalog, and you need to right-click on the folder and choose
Locate…, then browse to the renamed folder to reestablish the correct
link. The Locate command is also a key feature if you have moved a
folder to a new location from the Finder or Windows Explorer.
If you want to move some files from one folder to another, just select
them in the Browser and drag them to the new folder. This action will
move the files at the file system level, just like if you did it from the Find-
er or Windows Explorer.
As long as you always add, move and delete files within Capture One
Pro, you do not need to concern yourself with this feature, but if you
are also using another application to manage your image collection, the
Synchronize command can turn out to be essential.
Working with folders in a Session
A Session is perfectly well suited to organize your images on a fold-
er-by-folder basis. It is, in essence, an image file browser and will auto-
matically stay up-to-date with the change you do within a folder.
The concept behind a Session is that you keep your whole project in
one master folder. Once created, four subfolders are automatically creat-
ed which each has their own role.
When you have done all your edits on the favorite shots, they are meant
to be exported to the Output Folder.
You obviously do not need to follow this workflow, but if you are used
to a file-based management, be might be the most comfortable way to
work. Others just prefer the simplicity of the Session subfolders when
doing the initial organization after shooting tethering or importing the im-
ages.
Moving files within a Session
It is straightforward to move files from one folder to another within a Ses-
sion. You can just select the images and drag and drop them to another
folder. All the associated adjustment and preview files will be moved too.
There is a faster and more clever way of moving files around in a Ses-
sion, however. You can use the keyboard shortcut Command + J (Ctrl + J
on Windows) to move any image to the Selects Folder. Another shortcut
is to choose the Move to Selects Folder (V) cursor tool and simply click
on the images in the Browser to move them.
Likewise, you can just hit Delete to move an image to the Trash Fold-
er or choose the Remove (V) cursor tool and simply click on the images
in the Browser to delete them. You can also right-click on an image and
choose the two commands.
It is important to notice that the images are not deleted to the system
trash, they are just moved to the Thrash subfolder within the Session.
You can always select the Trash Folder and drag any images back into
another folder. If you want to really delete the files in the Trash subfolder,
you go to the File menu and choose Empty Session Trash….
One of the strengths of working with a Session is that you can add,
move and delete files on the system level with the Finder or Windows
Explorer and Capture One Pro will automatically update the contents of
a folder when you select it. There is a catch to this, however.
You will need to copy the image adjustments associated with the original
file too when moving an image to a new folder. Otherwise, you will lose
your edits, so it is highly recommended that you move files within Cap-
ture One Pro because the adjustment files will then be moved too auto-
matically.
It is worth to reiterate that each new variant takes up very little extra
space as they are just are small text files describing the adjustments of
each virtual copy. This means that you can have several Variants with
each their incremental changes to an image. This can be a great way to
work for some as Capture One Pro does not have a history stack where
you go back in time, so to speak.
If you want to start from scratch with a new Variant without any current
adjustments applied, choose Image > New Variant (or the keyboard
shortcut F2). This will essentially create a version as if you imported the
original image again.
You can also choose to create a new Variant that will copy and include
all the current adjustments from the selected image. This is done by go-
ing to Image > Clone Variant (or using the keyboard shortcut F3).
If you want to reuse certain adjustments, but not others, from a Variant,
it makes the most sense to use the Clone Variant option and then reset
the specific tool adjustments that you do not want to carry over.
It is worth pointing out that Capture One Pro has no feature to group or
stack different images. If you want to organize similar images in a group,
your best bet is to create an Album, but you can obviously not collapse
a collection.
Note that you cannot apply different names to Variants of the same file.
They will all share the same filename, so you can instead organize the
different versions by Color Tag. You can also differentiate them by add-
ing different tags to them with the Metadata tool (covered in a later
chapter).
Finding the right images with Filters tool
Being able to quickly find all your images with for example a four-star
rating is obviously essential for any efficient workflow. You have a couple
of options for doing this, but the most straightforward is to use the Fil-
ters tool. You will find it under the Library Tool Tab.
You just click the box by of desired value and Capture One Pro will filter
through your image collection and only show those that fit the require-
ment. Note that you can choose more than one value by holding Alt and
clicking on it. In this example, we have asked Capture One Pro to show
all the images with both a Green Color Tag and a Rating of four stars.
If you want to reset the Filter, click on the dot with a cross at the end of
the Search field.
Note that by default Capture One Pro will only show the images that
fit all criteria, so an image with a Green Color Tag but only a 3-star rat-
ing will not be shown in this example. You can change this behavior by
clicking on the options icon in the top-right corner and deselect Results
Match All Criteria.
You now get access to a long list of Metadata Filters that you can add
(see next page):
Check those you want to add to the Filters tool and click in the top-left
corner to close when done.
Here is a couple of very useful Filters
you might want to add:
• Adjusted (No/Yes)
• Annotated (No/Yes)
• Format
• Orientation
• Processed (No/Yes)
• Focal Length
• Content Description
• Image City
• Image Country
• Image Location
The same goes for Annotations. Just add Annotated to the list of fil-
ter options. It will now be easy to select all images with an Annotation
amended by selecting YES and then checking whether you have missed
any important notes.
Note that a lot of the Metadata Filters rely on information that you need
to enter yourself. This is typically done with the Metadata tool that we
will cover in a later chapter.
Tip: You can actually add specific metadata by clicking on the + (plus)
icon that some of the filters has. It might make good sense to add some
additional data right from the Filters tool because it lets you see whether
some of the selected images are missing important metadata in a partic-
ular area, like Image City.
Hide and show file types to filter
You should pay attention to the Global Filters submenu as it gives you
the option to hide specific file formats like JPEG, PNG or video files.
This can also be set by going to the View menu and choosing Global Fil-
ters. If you find yourself in a situation where a certain file format seems
to be missing from your image collection, chances are that you have en-
abled to hide those.
The Filters tool also gives you the option to do a simple search by typing
in some text. This is useful when you want to find all images with a spe-
cific file name, keyword or ITPC Metadata like City.
You can combine your text search with any of the filter options, so if you
have named certain files Shot1 and want to find those with a star-rating
of four, you just type in “Shot1” in the text field and click on the 4-star op-
tion.
You can get access to much more advanced search options by clicking
on the tree-dot icon at the end of the search text field. Advanced Search
will be covered in one of the next chapters.
Select by Rating, Color Tag or filenames
While the Filters tool is a quick way to find specific images, you can
speed up the workflow with the very useful features called Select By
and Select By Same.
Select By Rating
This feature is very straightforward. If you want to select all images with
a certain star Rating, like for example 3 stars, you just go to the main Edit
menu and choose Select By > Rating > ***. Capture One Pro will then se-
lect all the images with that rating.
This can be very handy if you want to process or export specific images
fast and easy. Note that you can limit the selection of images by choos-
ing a certain Album or image folder first.
Select By Color Tag
Just like you can select images by a rating, you also have the option to
select all images with a certain Color Tag. If you choose Edit > Select By
> Color Tag > Green, Capture One Pro will select all the images that you
have given the Green Color Tag.
You will now be represented will a dialog box where you can paste
those filenames into. Once you’re done, just click OK, and Capture One
Pro will find all those files.
Note that you can choose whether each image is separated by a New
Line, a Comma, a Semicolon or just Space from the Delimiter drop-
down menu.
Selecting by same attribute
If you want to select all images that share the same Rating, Color Tag,
Sequence ID or Variant Position, just right-click on an image in the
Browser and choose from the Select By Same submenu.
ture, open Other > Select by Same. Then choose either Select By Same
Rating, Select By Color Tag, Select By Same Sequence ID or Select By
Same Variant Position and enter the keyboard shortcut.
Finding images with Advanced Search
While you can always just do a simple text-based search directly from
the Browser, you will get access to a lot of powerful options when using
the Advanced Search feature instead.
You open the Advanced Search dialog box by going to the Edit menu
and selecting Advanced Search… or hitting the keyboard shortcut Shift
+ Command + F on Mac (Ctrl + Shift + F on Windows). You can also open
it by clicking on the three-dotted icon in the basic Search field or the Fil-
ters tool. Note that anything you have entered they will come preloaded
in the Advanced Search, so you need to hit Clear All if you want to be-
gin from scratch.
The power behind the Advanced Search feature is that you can search
through a long list of metadata in combination with any text string. It has
a lot in common with how the Smart Albums are set up, and the Metada-
ta options are familiar with those from the Filters tool.
By default, you need to add at least one Search Criteria first by clicking
on the + (plus) icon. You then choose a Criteria from a long list of differ-
ent metadata.
In the example above, we have selected Any (for a text search), a Color
Tag, and finally the Adjusted metadata. Let us look at the example is a
bit more detail. First, we are searching for all images that contain the text
“Shot1” in some form. It can be a filename, a Keyword or IPTC Metada-
ta like Description. Next, we narrow those down by adding that we only
want to find the images that also have a Green Color Tag applied. Final-
ly, the search result is being restricted further by only showing the imag-
es that have not yet had any image adjustments done to them (by set-
ting Adjusted = is false).
Note that All is selected by Match in the top-left corner to make sure
that all the search criteria are met simultaneously. If we had changed
that to Any, all images that met even just one of those criteria would be
found.
Each Search Criteria has a secondary pop-up menu with options to elab-
orate on the search result.
Their options depend on the chosen Criteria. With Keywords, for exam-
ple, you can select whether the images should equal or merely contain
the entered keyword. You can also search for images that do not contain
the keyword to exclude them, and so forth.
The images that are found with the current search are displayed in the
Browser. Once you are done, you close the Advanced Search dialog box
by clicking on the top-left red button.
• Color Tag
• Annotations (No/Yes)
• Date
• Format
• Keywords
• Rating
• Focal Length
• Geotagged
• Content Category
• Adjusted (No/Yes)
• Orientation
• Processed (No/Yes)
• Content Description
• Image City
• Image Country
• Image Location
This also means that each search criteria will be active until you clear
them by clicking on the cross in the Search field of the Filters tool or
open the Advanced Search dialog box and click on Clear All.
Saving a Search Preset
The possibilities are nearly endless when you think about the many cri-
teria that you can both use to add and exclude certain images from.
Luckily, you do not need to reconstruct those search setups over and
over because they can be saved as a Preset for later use. Just select the
Presets… popup menu and choose Save Search Preset….
Note that Capture One Pro ships with a couple of built-in Presets to get
you going.
This might actually turn out to be your preferred way to create and pop-
ulate Album in one go because there are so many search options to
keep track of.
If you look at the dialog box, you will note that there is added a Match
option above each pair of Search Criteria. They are called a Search Cri-
teria Group. The first is set to All, so all rules within its group must be re-
spected. The second group, however, is set to Any, so the search results
will include all the images with a Green Color Tag even if those do not
have a star-rating greater than 3. Likewise, the search results will also
include all the images with a star-rating of four even if they don’t have a
Green Color Tag applied.
Note that the group will be added above the Search Criteria where you
click and will add another Search Criteria in the process. It might not
be the most logical workflow ever conceived, so be prepared to play
around with a bit before you get it. Note that you can always delete a su-
perfluous Search Criteria by hitting the – (minus) icon.
Make notes with Annotations tool
The Annotations tool is a great way to add handwritten notes or point
something out that needs to be edited by drawing on top of your imag-
es. These notes can either be used as a reminder to yourself or used to
share a message with other people, for example, someone that needs to
do further adjustments to your images.
You can choose to bake the annotations into the images during export
or include them on a separate layer for greater flexibility if you choose
the PSD file format. By default, they are not included during export, but
only displayed in the Viewer.
The notes are added as separate metadata for each image to provide
the most flexible workflow. This means that a note is only added to the
Primary selected Variant even if you have selected multiple images. You
can copy the notes from one to multiple images, but more on that later.
Adding an Annotation
The Annotations tool is found in the Metadata Tool Tab, and it is
straightforward to add a note. Select the Draw Annotations cursor from
the Annotations tool or the Cursor Toolbar. You can also activate it by
hitting the keyboard shortcut I.
Then select a Color, set the Size, and start handwriting or drawing on
the selected image in the Viewer. You can preview the size (and the col-
or) by hovering the cursor over the image before you start to draw.
You can choose between six different colors, so make sure to select one
that is easy to read against the colors in the image. You can add as many
notes as you like and mix colors.
You can also take advantage of the different colors and let them signi-
fy different topics. This will give other people a quick visual indication of
whether the note is about composition, contrast, color adjustments or
something else.
Removing an Annotation
You can delete a note by choosing the Erase Annotations cursor from
the Annotations tool or the Cursor Toolbar. You can also activate the
cursor by hitting the keyboard shortcut Y. Then click on the note that you
want to delete.
If you want to get rid of all the annotations on the selected image at
once, hit the Reset icon in the Annotations tool. This is much faster than
having to click on all the notes one by one.
Displaying annotations
By default, the annotations are only displayed over the image in the
Viewer when you have selected either the Draw Annotations or the
Erase Annotations cursor tool. You can, however, choose to view the an-
notations all the time by selecting the Always Display Annotations op-
tion in either the Annotations tool or from the Annotations cursor menu.
You can also toggle their visibility on and off with the keyboard shortcut
J.
This is done within the Process Recipe tool (covered in great detail in a
later chapter) under the Output Tool Tab.
If you are exporting in TIFF, JEG or PNG file formats, you will get to op-
tion to bake the annotations in with the original file. This is done by
choosing the Annotations option under Workflow.
You can always deselect the option and re-export the images later to
output them without the Annotations if needed.
You will now be able to select all images with an Annotation amended
by selecting YES under Annotated.
Note that the Watermark text feature is global, so the same text will be
added to all the images that you export in the same batch. However,
this might not be much of a limitation if you for example need to add the
same instruction, like “Smooth out the skin tones,” to all the exported im-
ages. This is just meant as a workflow tip that might save you time once
in a while.
Make sure that Annotations is selected, and then click on Apply to reuse
them on the other images. They will now be added as separate metada-
ta entries to those images, and you can delete or edit them on an image
per image basis.
Working with Keywords
Adding keywords to your image collection is can be indispensable when
you quickly need to find all the images of a specific person, scenery or
product. They can also be essential if you want to sell your image to a
stock agency. Keywords might not be the most exciting part of doing
photography, but Capture One Pro has a couple of very nice features
that can speed up the workflow and make it much more enjoyable.
There are two ways to add keywords in Capture One Pro, namely with
the Keywords tool and the Keyword Library tool. You find them both un-
der the Metadata Tool Tab. They are intertwined, but think of them this
way; the Keywords tool works on an image per image basis, while the
Keyword Library tool work in a Catalog or Session wide basis. It makes
the most sense to start exploring the Keywords tool.
Adding keywords
You simply add a keyword by selecting one or more images and then
type the word or words you want to apply. They are applied when you
hit Enter and will be then be displayed below in a grey label.
You can enter more than one keyword at once by adding a comma be-
tween each word. Notice that Capture One Pro will differentiate be-
tween upper and lower case, so “beach” and “Beach” will be added as
two different keywords.
You can also add keywords to be part of a keyword hierarchy while en-
tering them. Just use a > between the words instead of a comma. For
example, if you enter Nature > Landscape > Seascape > Beach, then
Nature will be at the top of the hierarchy, while Beach will be the lowest.
Note that Capture One Pro will not display the hierarchy in the Keywords
tool, but it will be visible in the Keyword Library tool that we will cover a
bit later on. You can, however, inspect the hierarchy by hovering over a
keyword.
Note that if you have selected multiple images, the keywords will only
be applied to all of them if you have enabled Edit All Selected Variants
from the Edit menu.
Copying keywords
You cannot use drag and drop to add
keywords from one image to another.
If you want to copy the keywords from
one image to multiply other photos,
then click on the Copy Adjustments
icon at the top of the Keywords tool.
This will copy all the keywords.
Note that when you have selected multiple images with different key-
words and had Edit All Selected Variants enabled, the Keywords tool
will put a little - (minus) in front of those keywords that are only applied
to some of the images.
If you want those keywords to be ap-
plied to all the selected images, then
click on the minus at the start of the
grey keyword label. We will cover delet-
ing Keywords a bit later.
Power tip: You can use the Apply Adjustments cursor tool to speed up
applying a keyword to a specific subject that is scattered throughout a
large group of images. Imagine having to add keyword names to people
from an event, like a wedding.
Once you have added the name of a person as a Keyword, you select
the cursor tool Copy Adjustments from the Cursor Toolbar and click on
the image. Next, you go to the Adjustments Clipboard tool (covered in a
later chapter) and deselect everything but Keywords under Metadata.
Then choose the Apply Adjustments cursor tool. Now the keyword will
be applied to every image you click on, even if they are not selected.
The tip works the best if you close the Viewer and let the Browser fills
most of the screen. This way you can very quickly spot those images
that need a specific keyword.
Renaming keywords
If you mistype a keyword or want to
change it from uppercase to lower-
case, then right-click on the word
and select Rename…, then change
the word, and hit Enter.
Note that if you change the keyword in the Keywords tool, it will only
change it for the selected images. If you want to make sure that the key-
word is changed globally, use the Keyword Library instead.
Deleting keywords
You can delete a keyword by hover-
ing over it and clicking on the little
cross at the end or right-click on the
word and select Remove Selected
Keywords….
If you want to delete all keywords at
once, then click on the Reset icon at the top of the tool.
Saving and reusing as Preset
If you find yourself applying the same keywords over and over, you can
speed up your workflow by saving them as a Preset for later reuse.
Click on the Preset icon in the Keywords tool and select Save User Pre-
set… and save it. You can then apply the keywords in the Preset just by
selecting them under User Presets.
We will explore the use of Presets and Style in-depth in a later chapter,
but for now, you need to pay attention to the Stack Preset option in the
fly-out menu. When that is enabled, you can apply more than one key-
word Preset, and all the keywords from the selected Presets will be add-
ed without overwriting each other.
Keyword Library tool keeps track of all the keywords that you have add-
ed to images in your currently open Catalog or Session. Once a keyword
is added to an image, it is also automatically added to a list called the
Catalog Keywords (or the Session Keywords).
Notice how the assigning keywords will be denoted by the grey label. If
you only want to apply the parent keyword, then click on that.
Creating a Keyword with the Keyword Library tool
You can add keywords by clicking on the + (plus) icon. A new keyword
will be added at the top of the hierarchy, but you can move any keyword
up or down in the hierarchy simply by dragging it to a new position. You
can also right-click on a keyword and choose Create Keyword Child to
add it as a nested keyword.
The right-click action also gives you the option to Rename a keyword or
delete it.
It is important to note that even if you have deleted a specific keyword
from all images with the Keywords tool, it will remain in the list under
Catalog Keywords. You must delete the keyword from the Catalog Key-
words list too if you to get rid of it entirely.
Working with Keyword lists
The real power behind the Keyword Library tool is that you can create
your own lists of keywords and then export and import them for reuse
in another Catalog or Session. You can also download ready-made key-
word lists from the internet and import them, so all the typing and classi-
fying is done for you (see next page).
You can either create a new, empty Keyword Library or create one
based on an imported text file by clicking on the options icon and choos-
ing Create Keyword Library.
A very nice feature is that you can have several of these Keyword Li-
brary’s loaded at the same time, so nothing stops you from having one
tailored for event keywords and another of landscape keywords and so
forth. You should note that the Catalog Keywords are always created
automatically, and it cannot be deleted like the custom Keyword Library
can.
You can then freely add keywords from multiple lists just by selecting an
image and click on the keywords you desire.
Here we have added both the
“Landscape,” “countryside” and
the “Event,” “christening” key-
words to the selected image from
the two different keyword libraries
“My Keyword List” and “My Key-
word List2.”
Exporting a Keyword List
When you have built a comprehensive list of keywords, you can export it
to reuse in another Catalog or Session or share with another photogra-
pher for a streamlined keyword workflow. You do this by clicking on the
three-dotted option and choosing Export Keyword Library….
Note that you also have the option to add further keywords to the library
by choosing Import Keywords into Library…. This is an addictive action,
so none of the current keywords will be deleted or overwritten, the new
ones will merely be added.
Creating a keyword list outside Capture One Pro
You might prefer to create your keyword list in a text editor instead of
in Capture One Pro, and that can easily be done. You just need to be
aware of a couple of things. First, you must save the file in the plain text
(.txt) format, a Rich Text Format file will not import. The other thing to
note is that each word should be on a separate line. If you want to use
hierarchy keywords, then hit tab once for each keyword that should go
under a parent keyword.
If you are in doubt about how to construct hierarchy keywords in a text
file, it might be a good idea to download one from the internet and see
how it is done.
Adding and using Metadata
Adding metadata like a description or a location to your images will
make it much easier to keep them organized and finding the right ones
in no time. Entering metadata can also be essential if you want to sell
your images to a stock agency or protect them with a copyright notice.
You will find the Metadata tool under the Metadata Tool Tab, and the
information here is roughly divided into two types; Exif data, and IPTC
metadata.
Note that you can’t enter location data manually under EXIF – GPS.
Here you can enter all the information needed to identify you as the Cre-
ator and provide your contact information like Address, Phone, E-Mail or
Website. Note that the location data here is for your home or business,
not for the capture location. The capture location is handled by the IPTC
– Image covered on the next page.
This is used to enter copyright information and rights usage terms. Note
that you also have to option to add a bit of additional metadata informa-
tion with IPTC Getty Images.
Save Metadata tags as a Preset
Ii might make sense to save some your entered IPTC metadata as a Pre-
set so that you can reuse it quickly later on. This is particularly useful to
do with your contact and copyright data as this will be the same for all of
your images. Just click on the Preset icon and select Save User Preset…
You then get the option to select which metadata tags you want to be a
part of the Preset. Once done, click on Save.
You will now get the option to choose Metadata tags that should be car-
ried over to the other images. Select the desired options and hit Apply
to reuse them.
Metadata or keywords?
The functionality of IPTC metadata and keywords is somewhat overlap-
ping, so what to use when? A part of the question depends on wheth-
er you need to supply the images to others with specific IPTC metadata
applied to describe the content; otherwise it is probably faster to type
in some keywords. Even if you do not need to supply IPTC metadata, it
might still make good sense to enter location information under the IPTC
Image because there are specific text fields for Country, City, State and
Location here. You can then use keywords to describe the content of
your images.
Regardless, you should obviously always enter your copyright informa-
tion with the Metadata tool.
Keeping track of changing metadata
It can be a bit confusing to keep the metadata up to date if you use both
Capture One Pro and another application to manage your image collec-
tion. By default, all the metadata that you have entered is saved within
Capture One Pro’s database. This means that other applications will not
be able to read the applied metadata before you either export the image
or you save out a small sidecar file, such as a .XMP file. The metadata
will then be embedded in the exported JPEG, PSD or TIFF file or written
in the small XMP file for other applications to read.
You can write the metadata to a sidecar file by clicking on the options
icon and choosing Sync Metadata. If you choose Reload Metadata,
Capture One Pro will check whether some metadata tags have been
changed from an external application, and load any changes.
The default behavior in Capture One Pro is to not synchronize the side-
car XMP files automatically. This means that if you make a metadata
change in an external application, those changes will not be picked up
or applied by Capture One Pro by default.
You can change this behavior in the Preferences, see next page:
Open Preferences and select Image. Then under Metadata, you can
change the Auto Sync Sidecar XMP option from None to either Load or
Full Sync.
If you choose Load, Capture One Pro will always read any sidecar XMP
file and load any changes, and if you choose Full Sync, it will also write
any changes you make to the sidecar file.
You need to be aware that changing the option to Load or Full Sync
will mean that Capture One Pro must access the hard drives frequent-
ly which can affect performance. Unless you really need this feature, it
might be a better option to keep the default at None. Then choose Re-
load Metadata from the Metadata tool options menu (see above) when
you really need to read a sidecar XMP file for changes or Sync Metadata
The default Workspace has these tools organized in four different Tool
Tabs. This arrangement of might or might not suit your workflow, and
that is part of the reason why we will cover most of the tools in a slightly
different order. For example, most photographers will probably start with
getting the white balance right, then move on to adjusting the exposure
and contrast before editing the colors. Others might want to crop and
straighten the image or apply lens corrections as the very first thing. For
this reason, the tools will be covered in the order of a typical workflow
instead of following the organization in the tool Tabs.
You should also keep in mind that you can add and remove tools to any
Tool Tab to suit your workflow or even create your own Tool Tab. You
can for example add the White Balance tool to the Exposure Tool Tab
while also keeping it in the Color Tool Tab. Whatever adjustments you
make to a tool in one Tool Tab is mirrored to any other instance of that
tool. This is part of why the user interface is so powerful in Capture One
Pro. See the Add and remove Tools from Tool Tabs section on how to
add a tool to a Tool Tab.
Getting the colors and contrast
right with Base Characteristics
An unaltered raw file is much darker in reality than it appears to be when
viewed in a raw converter like Capture One Pro. The light balance must
be corrected behind the scenes with a so-called gamma curve for the
image to look properly exposed, and this process is controlled with the
Base Characteristics tool. The tool also controls another important fac-
tor when dealing with converting a raw file, namely the colors. The col-
ors captured in a raw file are not the final product so to speak, they need
to be interpreted to reach the desired look.
Original Raw file before Base Characteristics
In other words, Capture One Pro need to apply both a specific ICC color
profile and a gamma curve to each and very raw file before they are dis-
played and look natural. This all happens behind the scene without you
having to do anything because Capture One Pro automatically recogniz-
es the camera used to capture the raw file, and then applies the correct
adjustments.
The colors are controlled with the ICC Profile drop-down menu and the
gamma curve with the Curve drop-down menu. Both are tailored a team
at Phase One to look both correct and give nice, pleasant colors, so in
most cases, you can just leave everything in the Base Characteristics
tool to their defaults, enjoy the look of the raw files, and move on to oth-
er image editing tools.
The Base Characteristics tool does, however, give you some powerful
options that is worth knowing for more advanced image editing. We will
look at those now, but you can easily skip this part if you are new to raw
image processing or want to get going with the more basic tools.
Now you can quickly apply that profile to all the desired images by se-
lecting the Preset from the same menu later on.
Color is a science, but in the end what matters is the eye test. If you like
the colors from another camera profile better than the default, then, by
all means, try it out. You obviously need a color corrected monitor to be
able to judge whether the colors look correct or good, but beyond that,
the many different ICC Profiles are a great playground waiting to be ex-
plored by the adventurous.
For most purposes, you can just stay with the default Auto/Film Stan-
dard-curve. You should be aware that the Film Extra Shadow and Film
High Contrast options will respectively lighten the shadows and raise
the contrast compared to the Film Standard curve. Those might come in
handy if the default for your camera lacks a bit of contrast, for example.
Taking advantage of the Linear Response Curve
The last option in the Curve drop-down menu, Linear Response, is an
extremely cool feature for the advanced user.
It basically provides a very flat conversion of the raw file where substan-
tially less contrast has applied. As a result, it will look dark and flat and
need some additional image editing to exposure, contrast and light bal-
ance with the Exposure tool and/or the Curve tool.
The major benefit, however, is that a file with the Linear Response curve
applied will retain highlights better and has a more gentle represen-
tation of the colors due to the lower contrast curve. This can be a big
boost to both landscape photography and portraits where you want to
retain fine tonal gradients.
You might find that the default Curve is a bit too harsh on the skin tones,
making it difficult to obtain just the right pleasing colors. Choosing Lin-
ear Response and tweaking the exposure and light balance can make a
very big impact on your portrait photography.
The advanced user probably wants to use the Curve tool in both the
RGB and Luma modes (covered in a later chapter) to tweak the contrast
and light balance respectively on a Linear Response file to get the per-
fect result. If that seems a bit daunting, just use the sliders in the Expo-
sure tool. Set Exposure to around +1, Contrast to +5, and Brightness
to +10, and you are off to a good start with your portraits. You can then
save those settings as a Preset to speed up your workflow to this partic-
ular setup.
We will explore how to use the Curve tool in a later chapter and how to
take advantage of the Linear Response power trick. For now, you should
just keep the possibility in the back of your head.
If you want to update one or more files to the latest Engine, simply se-
lect those and click on Upgrade. Be aware that some tools might give a
slightly different look when you update to a new Engine version. Also,
note that you cannot undo the upgrade action. Because of this, it might
be a good idea to clone a Variant of all the files first by going to the Im-
age menu and selecting Clone Variant. Then only update one of each
Variant so that you always have the original adjustments as a backup in
case the new Engine changes the adjustments to much for your liking.
Close the window. You can now select an existing image, go to the Im-
age menu and chose New Variant or import an image. In both cases, the
images will now use the Engine version that you have selected in the
Preferences. You can still update them to the latest version.
Note that the new Defaults are not automatically applied to other files
already present in your Catalog or Session. This will only happen once
you import new files. If you want to apply the new settings to existing
image variants, you will need to select those first and choose Apply De-
faults from the drop-down menu. You can always revert to the original
settings by selecting Reset Defaults for xxx from the same menu.
Getting the White Balance right
One of the very first things you should do when adjusting an image is
to set the correct white balance with the White Balance tool. If the color
temperature is off, the image will look too warm or too cool. The reason
is that every light source emits a certain color temperature – measured
in Kelvin – and you need to counter any color cast to achieve a neutral
tone in the image.
Most might not think about it, but the white balance can also greatly in-
fluence the light distribution, making certain parts of the image lighter or
darker as you change the Kelvin value. This is another key reason why it
should be set before evaluating whether the exposure is correct. Think
of a blue sky. If the white balance is shifted to a cooler color, the sky will
become darker, and vice versa. This is more apparent if you have con-
verted an image to black and white, where a change in the color tem-
perature will shift light balance and contrast.
You will find the White Balance tool in the Color Tool Tab by default, but
it might be a good idea to add the tool to the Exposure Tool Tab as well
as it should be set before doing the adjustments there. You add the tool
by right-clicking on an empty area of the tool and selecting Add Tool >
White Balance.
Adjusting color temperature
The White Balance tool gives you several ways to set the proper color
temperature. You can select different presets from the Mode drop-down
menu, where Shot refers to the white balance that the camera has deter-
mined to be the best.
You then click on an area in the image that should be a neutral grey. It is
important to stress that whatever area you click on in the image with the
cursor tool will be balanced to become a neutral grey. The Pick White
Balance cursor does not recognize a neutral area itself; it merely fol-
lows your command to set a specific point as a neutral area. This means
that if you pick an area with a strong, distinct color, like a red shirt or and
green grass, the white balance will look terrible.
You can check that Capture One Pro has indeed set the selected white
balance point to a neutral grey color by looking at the color readouts un-
der the Cursor toolbar (see next page):
A point is considered neutral when the red, green and blue readout is
the same value.
With this knowledge, you should always look for an area in the image
that you know is neutral in real life when using the Pick White Balance
cursor tool. Any shade of mid-grey will do, while bright whites are tricki-
er to rely on as one of the three primary color channels might be burned
out and thus missing. It is not always possible to find a perfect mid-grey
source, so if the white balance needs to be perfect, you need to photo-
graph a white balance grey card or color checker chart on location in the
light that you are going to shoot under.
One more tip on choosing the best area for the Pick White Balance cur-
sor tool. If possible, find a mid-grey patch that is primarily lit by the most
important light source in your scene. If you select an area partly in the
shadows, for example, you will be sampling the indirect light, which most
of the time is cooler than the main light. That will result in a white bal-
ance that is too bluish.
A low value will make the image more blue and cooler, while a higher
value will make it more yellowish and add warmth. For a point of refer-
ence, a Kelvin value of 6500 is considered the default for daylight.
The Tint slider controls the balance between magenta and green. Pos-
itive values correct for a green color cast by adding magenta, while
negative values take care of a magenta cast. Most of the time you don’t
need to adjust this, but under certain lighting conditions, it can be im-
portant to tweak to get a proper whiter balance. This is especially true
with fluorescent lighting where there might be a strong green color cast.
In the case, add a positive value to balance it out with some magenta.
You might also experience that the shadows have a slight green or ma-
genta color cast, which should be corrected with the Tint slider as well.
Note that both the Mode presets and the Pick White Balance cursor tool
will set the Tint too.
It has the best chance of success if there are some light grey areas in
the image that it can use as a neutral reference point. Note that this auto
white balance feature is not the same as the Auto preset in the Mode
drop-down menu. If the white balance is still not quite right, you can of
course tweak it with the Kelvin and Tint sliders.
Adjusting white balance after Skin Tones
Capture One Pro has a unique feature to help you get the right white
balance when shooting portraits. Instead of picking a neutral grey area,
you select a skin tone of a certain hue and ask Capture One Pro to set a
white balance that looks correct with that. First, select the Skin Tone tab
in the White Balance tool.
Then select a skin tone hue that fits the subject’s face most closely from
the Skin tone drop-down menu. Once you have selected one of the nine
presets, select the Pick Skin Tone cursor tool (or hit the keyboard short-
cut S), and click on the subject’s face. The white balance will now be ad-
justed.
If you need to tweak the white balance, select the Grey tab and adjust
the Kelvin and Tint sliders to taste.
You can create your own skin tone Preset if none of the built-in one’s
work. First, you need to select the Pick to create new option, then click
with the Pick Skin Tone cursor tool on the face of the person. You are
now asked to give the Preset a name, then hit Save.
You can now choose the new preset from the Skin tone drop-down
menu and click on the same person’s skin tone on another image to re-
use it. The feature works the best if you sample and save a skin tone for
each specific light setup as different light sources will cast a different
color on the subject.
Using a color calibrated screen
Your monitor should ideally be calibrated with a hardware color calibra-
tion tool if you want to fully trust the colors you see on it. Otherwise, ad-
justing the white balance by taste and eye test could mean that the im-
ages will look too cold or too warm on other monitors.
One way to test whether the white balance of your screen is adequate
is to shoot a raw file of something that you know for a fact are a neutral
grey in real life. Then use that as a target for the Pick White Balance cur-
sor tool in Capture One Pro and verify that it is indeed set as a neutral
area by checking with the color readouts. If your monitor then displays
the grey area in a blueish or yellowish tone, you should consider getting
it calibrated.
This is the reason why professional photographers try to work with only
one type of light, namely a flash system, when shooting portraits or
products. The daylight is often blocked out as it will introduce another
color temperature that makes it difficult to obtain a proper, even white
balance. Furthermore, the interior of the studio is normally kept in neu-
tral colors to minimize color contamination from the walls.
However, you might not have the choice to limit or select your light
sources. Then what to do? First and foremost, you should always try to
pick a white balance that looks good on your main subject. Most of the
time, this will be good enough.
The human brain is constantly adjusting the white balance based on
what we look at in real life, so the concept of changing and mixing color
temperatures is well known to the brain. The problem with mixed light-
ing only really becomes an issue in photography when there is no clear
point of attention for the eye to be drawn into. If everything looks to be
of equal importance, but the white balance is clearly off in a part of the
image, the image won’t look correct.
Luckily, this can be corrected by using different white balance values for
different parts of the image. This is done with Layers.
Once you have created a new Layer and have masked the area you
want to affect, you can go ahead and make your selective White Bal-
ance adjustments. They work exactly the same way as the main, global
tool explored above. Note the small brush icon next to the tool name; it
is indicating that you are now working on a Layer, not on the base Back-
ground image.
The principal use of the localized white balance tool is get rid of the is-
sue with mixed lighting in the images. A typical scenario is when you are
shooting indoor with a mix of warmth tungsten lights and the more blu-
ish outdoor sun shining in through the windows. The best approach to
fixing this is to set the global white balance to match the largest part of
the image and then create a mask over the smaller area that needs a dif-
ferent white balance to cancel the color cast of this part out.
Creative uses of white balance
The combination of the White Balance tool and Layers can be used to
do powerful color adjustments beyond just working with mixed lighting,
however.
As an example, you can get a deeper blue sky by masking just this area
and adding a lower Kelvin value to make it deeper bluish. If the clouds
become a bit too cold as a result, just create a new cloud-specific lay-
er and neutralize the color cast in them by raising the Kelvin value and
painting over the clouds.
The combination of the White Balance tool and Layers can also be used
to add extra warmth to a part of a sunset image or even enhance foliage
by adding some green color cast with a negative Tint to a certain area.
This is just to get your imagination going.
Most of the time you will probably use the Color Editor tool to enhance
certain colors in the image, but the White Balance tool used locally can
be quite powerful too.
You should note that the Color Balance tool is better suited if you want
to add a more distinct color grading style, so keep that in mind. We will
cover this great creative tool in a later chapter.
One final note on using the white balance in a creative context. When
you are converting your images to black and white with the Black &
White tool, there is no longer a right or wrong white balance to care
about. But that does not mean you should forget all about the tool when
doing your black and white adjustments. On the contrary. Changing the
white balance can shift the underlying light balance and contrast quite a
bit and get you to a more suitable starting point.
Making basic adjustments with Exposure
The Exposure tool is a bit unique in the sense that it will let you do the
basic adjustments to both exposure, contrast, and saturation whereas
all the other tools in Capture One Pro mostly focus on one specific task.
Think of the Exposure tool as the place where you do the basic adjust-
ments before moving on to more specialized tools.
It is important to be aware that moving the Exposure slider will shift all
tonal values, including the darkest shadows and the brightest highlights.
This is worth mentioning because sometimes an image might look too
dark or bright, but the exposure is actually well balanced with correctly
mapped shadows and highlights. In this case, you should adjust the mid-
tones with either the Brightness slider in the Exposure tool or with the
Curve tool (covered in a later chapter).
In a properly exposed image, the Histogram will show that there is im-
age data in both the dark areas to the left and the bright areas on the
right. If there is no data in the bright part and both the midtones and the
shadows look too dark in the image, you should move the Exposure slid-
er to a positive value, until the histogram looks well balanced and the
highlight data start to fill the area close to the border on the right. Just
make sure you don’t crush the highlights against the right border as this
will result in burned out details. If there is no data in the dark part of the
Histogram, but both the midtones and the shadows look too bright in
the image, you should do the reverse and move the Exposure slider to a
negative value.
It is important to note that you will get an exposure warning even if only
the red, green or blue color channel are clipped. This means that there
might still image data in the area to work with and that you can recover
highlight data with the Highlight slider in the High Dynamic Range tool
(covered in a later chapter).
There is one final thing to be aware of when using the Exposure Warn-
ing. The warning is based on which ICC color profile is set as the out-
put target. A sRGB profile contains a smaller color gamut than the Ado-
be RGB profile and will therefore show certain colors as clipped which
might get no exposure warning if the Adobe RGB profile is selected. You
can check which output color profile is currently selected by going to the
main menu and select View > Proof Profile.
By default, Capture One Pro is basing the Proof Profile on the selected
Output Recipe in the Process Recipes tool (covered in a later chapter),
so be aware of that.
If you want the Exposure Warning to more closely mirror the full color
gamut in the raw file, you could consider choosing the ProPhoto profile.
Just be aware that no output device like a printer or monitor can repro-
duce all those colors, so this tip is only for power users who know what
they are doing.
You can also click on the picker part of Cursor Toolbar drop-down menu
and select Add Color Readout. Then click on the area to insert a read-
out. A highlight is fully clipped if both a red, green and blue value is at
255. Ideally, none of them should go above 254, but there are no rules
without exceptions. The sun in bright daylight or powerful specular high-
lights will often clip in a well-exposed image. A shadow area is clipped if
both the red, green and blue value all show 0 (zero).
Adding Contrast
Using the Contrast slider will obviously add contrast to the image by
making the bright tones brighter and the darker tones darker. If you
pay attention to the Histogram while adding a positive value, you will
see how the image data is stretched out towards both edges. This also
means that you might end up clipping some image data in the shadow
or highlight area if you go too far. Using a negative value will do the op-
posite by compressing the extremes more towards the midtones, creat-
ing a flatter looking image.
You can control the contrast of the image in much greater control with
the Curve tool, but that doesn’t mean there is no use for the Contrast
slider. It is faster and easier to use than working with curves for most
people, and it also affects the colors in a slightly different way than the
Curve tool does. The Curve tool will be covered in detail in a later chap-
ter so for now you just need to be aware that the RGB Curve will boost
the colors more than using the Contrast slider when adding the same
degree of contrast. This means that you might prefer to use the Contrast
slider in certain situations.
A very high positive or negative amount can ultimately clip the highlights
or shadows respectively, but this can usually be countered with a bit of
adjustment to the Exposure slider or the Highlight and Shadow sliders
in the High Dynamic Range tool (covered in a later chapter).
You can use the Curve tool to lighten or darken the midtones instead
of the Brightness slider, but unless you need the precise control of the
curves, you just might find that this slider will do a fine job with less ef-
fort. Even if you plan on using Curves later on, it can be a quick way to
help decide whether the image need a boost to just the midtones or a
shift of the entire exposure range.
Note that the way that the Brightness slider works was updated in ver-
sion 9 of Capture One Pro, so if you gave up on using it in a prior ver-
sion, now might be a good time to revisit its functionality.
Adding Saturation
This slider will boost the colors when you add the positive value. It is
smart in the sense that it primarily saturates the more subdued colors
while affecting the saturated tones less. This way you can achieve a nice
saturation boost to pale colors without fearing that the rest is blown out.
It works much in the same way as the Vibrance slider you might know
from Photoshop and Adobe Camera Raw.
Another nice feature of the Saturation slider is that the luminosity levels
are not altered, or only slightly, when you are boosting the colors. This
means that most of the time you don’t need to adjust the brightness of
the image after tweaking the colors.
When you use a negative value, the slider will work like an old-school
Saturation in the sense that all colors are desaturated the same amount
until the image turns into a completely black and white photo.
Saving as a Preset
If you have found a nice combination of settings that might work great
for other images in the future, it would be a good idea to save them as a
Preset that can easily be reused. Click on the Preset icon in the upper
right corner and select Save User Preset....
You now get to choose which kind of adjustment you want to include.
Then click Save, and the preset is ready to be applied from the Preset
drop-down menu under User Presets. Note that the Exposure tool also
comes with a couple of readymade Built-in Presets that you can try out.
Once you have created a new Layer and have masked the area you
want to affect, you can go ahead and make your selective Exposure ad-
justments. They work exactly the same way as the main, global tool ex-
plored above. Note the small brush icon next to the tool name; it is in-
dicating that you are now working on a Layer, not on the Background
image.
Setting the black and white point correctly is a crucial first step to obtain
a great base contrast. By doing this, you are making sure that the image
spans the full tonal range from pure black to white. If your image looks
flat and dull, the chances are high that it doesn’t contain any tones near
the blacks or whites. This will also be revealed in the Histogram where
there will be empty spaces adjacent to the borders.
In the example below, most of the image data are in the middle of the
Histogram, and the image looks flat and dull. Applying a correct black
and white point remaps the tonal range and adds a much-needed boost
to the base contrast. No other adjustments were between the two imag-
es.
Setting the black and white point manually
The black and white point correspond to the two markers at the bottom
of each end of Levels histogram. Note how the markers are black and
white respectively. You can move them by clicking and dragging the
markers inwards. The two markers should be adjusted, so they touch the
point where the image data starts to appear at both ends of the histo-
gram. You can also click on the number fields below the marker and type
in a value.
Note that once you have set the black and white point, the image can
appear a bit brighter or darker and you might want to adjust the mid-
tones with the grey Gamma marker in the middle (explained below), or
the Brightness slider or Curve tool. You should also be aware that if you
adjust the Exposure slider afterward, the black and white point will be
shifted, and you should readjust them.
You can also use the keyboard shortcut command + L (Ctrl + L on Win-
dows) if you go to the main menu and select Adjustments > Auto Ad-
justments and make sure that Levels are selected in the submenu. If you
deselect all the other options, you will only apply Auto Levels with the
keyboard shortcut, and it is definitely something you should consider
speeding up your workflow.
Go to the main menu and select Capture One (Edit on Windows) and se-
lect Preferences… Then select the Exposure tab and look at the Auto
Levels Clipping Thresholds at the bottom. If you want to make sure that
the Auto Levels features don’t clip the data, you can change these val-
ues to 0,0% (zero). Setting the Highlights value to 0,0% could be a good
idea if you are keen not to lose any detail in a very bright scene.
Setting the black and white point from the image
You can also select either the Pick Shadow Level or the Pick Highlight
Level Cursor tools at the bottom of the Levels tool. Then click on the im-
age where you want the corresponding black or white point to be set.
Note how an orange line in the Levels histogram will indicate where you
are currently sampling from in the tonal range.
You might clip some shadows or highlights by using this method if you
are not very careful, so this is best used in those circumstances where
you have a precise point to sample your black and white point from, like
a color checker board. Note that you can select the two Cursor tools by
using the keyboard shortcut L and switch between them by hitting Shift
+ L.
One of the benefits of using the gamma to adjust the midtone is that it
will not affect the black or white point in comparison with for example
the Brightness or Exposure sliders discussed in a prior chapter. On the
other hand, it doesn’t provide the same control as using the Curve tool
and can give a slightly flatter look with less contrast.
This issue can be solved by setting the output Target Levels which is
controlled by the black and white marker at the top of the Levels tool
histogram.
In this example, the Target Level for black is set to 5, while the Target
Level for white is set to 250. This means that the darkest and brightest
data in the image are remapped to fit within the tonal range from 5 to
250. In other words, the image will never contain any data that is darker
than 5 or brighter than 250. This is true even if you adjust the exposure
heavily.
This is a feature that can be very useful if you are going to share the ex-
ported image to monitors or printers that cannot reproduce the fine de-
tail of near-black and near-white.
You can set the Target Levels by dragging the black or white marker on
the top of the Levels histogram or type in a value in the two associated
number fields above.
You also have the option of having them set automatically when using
the Auto Levels command. This need to be enabled in the preference
first, however. First, open the Preferences and select the Exposure tab.
Make sure that Pick Target Levels is selected and set the Shadows and
Highlights values. A value of 5 and 250 could be a good standard, but
it really depends on the capabilities of the target output device. Then
close the window.
Next time you run the Auto Levels command, Capture One Pro will au-
tomatically set the black Target level to 5 and the white Target Level to
250 in the Levels tool while also adjusting the levels based on the image
content.
It is, however, not recommended to use this mode when working on im-
ages capture directly from a camera as it might introduce a color cast. It
reason being is that the black and white point will often be set differently
on the red, green and blue channels, leading to unexpected color shifts.
In this case, remember to set Channel Mode back to the default RGB
Channel.
Note that you can also set the Target Level marker for each color chan-
nel individually. If you move the black Target Level inwards, it will intro-
duce a shadow color cast of the channel you use it on. However, if you
move the white Target Level inwards, it will introduce a highlight color
cast that is the complementary color of said channel. So, if you move the
white Target Level in the Blue channel, you will introduce a yellow color
cast primarily in the highlights. All this power can also be used to color
correct an image that has a specific color cast.
It might take a bit of time to wrap your head around all the combinations,
and for most people, it will be far easier to do this kind of creative color
styles with the excellent Color Balance tool (covered in a later chapter).
The possibilities are greater when using the separate channels in Levels,
however, so keep that in mind if you can’t quite accomplish what you are
after with the Color Balance tool. Note that the Color Balance tool is de-
signed not to change the contrast of the image, which this will happen
when you play around with the black and white points in the color chan-
nels of the Levels tool.
Saving as a Preset
If you have found a nice combination of settings that might work great
for other images in the future, you should save them as a Preset that can
easily be reused. Click on the Preset icon in the upper right corner and
select Save User Preset....
You now get to choose which kind of adjustment you want to include.
Then click Save, and the preset is ready to be applied from the Preset
drop-down menu under User Presets. This feature probably makes the
most sense to use if you have made a creative style with the Red, Green
and Blue channels as the white and black point should always be set on
an image-per-image basis.
Copy and reuse an adjustment
If you want to copy adjustments made with the Levels tool to other se-
lected images, just click on the Copy icon. You now get the option to
choose whether the Target Levels or just the normal Levels adjustments
should be carried over to the other images.
Once you have created a new Layer and have masked the area you
want to affect, you can go ahead and make your selective Levels ad-
justments. They work exactly the same way as the main, global tool ex-
plored above. Note the small brush icon next to the tool name; it is indi-
cating that you are now working on a Layer, not on the Background base
image.
The Levels tool can be used to achieve a wide variety of selective image
adjustments because it is versatile. Here is a couple of tips and tricks to
get your imagination going.
You can increase the contrast by setting the black or white clipping point
as explained earlier in this chapter and then isolate the effect to a specif-
ic part of the image with a mask. This can also be useful if you just need
to crush the shadows or highlights a bit in a specific area of the image.
You might prefer to use the gamma adjustment (middle grey marker) to
adjust the overall brightness of the image instead of using other adjust-
ments like the Curve tool or the Brightness slider in the Exposure tool.
As mentioned earlier in the chapter, the main advantage of using the
gamma point to adjust the brightness is that it doesn’t change the black
or white clipping point.
You can also use Levels on a Layer and change the black and white out-
put markers to make sure that a certain part of the image doesn’t reach
pure black or white. As explained earlier, you need to use the markers at
the top of the histogram to achieve this. It can be very useful to use this
feature in a specific area instead of just applying it globally.
Finally, you can make creative color changes to the images with the Red,
Green and Blue levels and then limit those by using a mask. This is an
area where using a Layer and Mask is especially powerful because you
easily can limit the effect to a particular part of the image. It gets even
better, as you can control the strength of the color adjustment by brush-
ing it on with a low Opacity setting, gradually painting in the effect. Us-
ing the Levels tool globally to make creative color adjustment can quick-
ly go a bit over the top but doing the work on a layer and using a mask
can greatly expand the usefulness of the tool for creative color adjust-
ments.
Recovering details with High Dynamic
Range
The High Dynamic Range tool is extremely useful when you need to re-
cover details in the shadows or highlights. It works best with raw files
because of their large dynamic range where you can retrieve unseen im-
age detail. This is especially true in the highlight area where the detail in
for example a bride’s white dress might look burned out at first sight, but
actually have plenty of image information to work with.
Note that it is possible to overdo the effect and create an image that
looks washed out and artificial if you crank the sliders all the way up.
There is no hard rule on when that point is reached as it depends on the
image content and your taste.
The High Dynamic Range tool is very useful when you want to be sure
that the image data isn’t clipped in either the shadows or the highlights.
Therefore, you should use the tool in combination with other tools like
Exposure, Levels, and Curve. Once the exposure, brightness and con-
trast have been adjusted, you should tweak the image with the Highlight
and Shadow sliders to recover any blown-out detail.
The Exposure Warning feature is very helpful when you are using the
sliders and need to determine when the image data is no longer clipped.
You turn it on by using the keyboard shortcut command + E (Ctrl + E on
Windows). Read the Using Exposure Warning section for more informa-
tion about how to set it up.
Note that the Exposure Warning will show you a warning even if just
one of the color channels is clipped. As long as at least one of the color
channels contain data in the highlights, you will be able recover some
detail in that area. The reason being that the human brain isn’t very sen-
sitive to colors in the highlights, so even some shade of grey will often
do fine.
Things are different in the shadow areas, but the dynamic range cap-
tured by the image sensor on new cameras have improved a lot. Today
you can brighten the shadow areas about three to four stops of light
without running into problems with noise. Moving the Shadow slider all
the way to the max value of 100 is more or less the equivalent to adding
two stops of light to the shadow area.
You should note that both the Highlight and Shadow slider can affect
the brightness of the midtones, so you might want to readjust the con-
trast or the light balance of the image with either the Exposure or Curve
tool after the fact.
You can also use the keyboard shortcut command + L (Ctrl + L on Win-
dows) if you go to the main menu, chose Adjustments > Auto Adjust-
ments and ensure that High Dynamic Range is selected.
Saving as a Preset
If you have found a nice combination of settings that might work great
for other images in the future, it would be a good idea to save them as a
Preset that can easily be reused. Click on the Preset icon in the upper
right corner and select Save User Preset....
You now get to choose whether you want to include both Highlight and
Shadow or just one of them. Then click Save, and the preset is ready to
be applied from the Preset drop-down menu under User Presets.
Copy and reuse an adjustment
If you want to copy adjustments to other selected images, just click on
the Copy icon. You now get the option to choose whether both High-
light and Shadow or just one of them should be carried over to the other
images.
The same trick can be applied if you think that the darker tones have be-
come a bit too bright after having used the Shadow slider. In the case,
you might want to add a slightly darkening Luma curve in the Curve tool
on the same layer.
Getting the perfect contrast
with the Curve tool
When you need precise control over the contrast and the light balance
in your images, the Curve tool should be your preferred choice. It let you
tweak the brightness level at any given point in the tonal range by in-
serting a point on a curve. If you move the point up, that range will get
brighter, while it will get darker if you move it downwards.
The most classic use of the Curve tool is to increase the contrast by cre-
ating an S-shape. This is done by adding points to both the shadow area
and the upper midtone area and then making that tonal range darker
and brighter respectively.
If you want to get a hard start, click on the Preset icon in the Curve tool
and select the built-in preset Contrast Luma or Contrast RGB to have an
S-shape applied automatically.
Note the other presets Mid tones – brighter, Mid tones – darker and
Shadows – brighter. The Curve tool is not just for adding contrast; it can
also be used to great effect when you need to tweak the light balance in
the image.
Using RGB and Luma curves
One of the most powerful features of the Curve tool in Capture One
Pro is that you can work with both an RGB curve and a so-called Luma
curve. Luma stands for luminosity and means that the only the bright-
ness levels in the image are changed while the hues and saturation
of the colors are kept constant. If you use the RGB curve, on the other
hand, the colors will also be affected by adding a good deal of satura-
tion and some slight color shifts.
The RGB curve is great when you want to add contrast with some col-
or punch to it, for example to landscape photos or other subjects where
you want the colors to pop more with some added saturation. Converse-
ly, the Luma curve is an excellent option when you want or need to re-
tain colors in subjects with delicate tones or fine color graduations. This
is often the case with skin tones, particularly women, but it might also be
important with product or fine art photography where the colors should
not shift.
You can combine the use of both curves to great effect once get you a
feel for how they behave. In fact, chances are that you will quickly appli-
cate the power and freedom they provide in combination.
This why some power users add an extra version of the Curve tool by
right-clicking in the Tool Tab and choose Add Tool > Curve and then
stack them together, having one set to RGB and another to Luma.
You can also use the arrow keys on the keyboard to move the point
around, just make sure that it is selected with a filled orange rectangle
first. The arrow keys will move the point one luminosity level per tap, but
if you hold the Shift key down and hit an arrow key, it will move five lev-
els.
Clicking on the curve and hoping that you have hit the right spot to con-
trol the tonal range is not the most intuitive way of working, so luckily
that is a better option.
At the bottom-right of the Curve tool you can select the Pick Curve Point
cursor tool, and when you click with it on the image in the Viewer, a
point will be inserted on the curve that match the corresponding lumi-
nosity level. You can click and add as many as you want.
Note that there is a separate pick Cursor tool for both the RGB curve
and the Luma Curve. You can enable both with the keyboard shortcut U
and hit Shift + U to switch between them on the fly.
Deleting a curve point
If you need to delete a point, just select it, right-click and choose Re-
move Selected. You can also delete all the points by selecting the Re-
move All command.
Be aware that if you click on the Reset adjustment icon at the top of the
tool, it will delete all the points on the RGB, Luma, Red, Green, and Blue
curves. If you only want to reset one of them, hold command and click
on the Reset icon. Then only the selected curve will be cleared.
Making precise adjustments
There are two tricks you should know in order to make very precise ad-
justments. The first is to open the Curve tool as a floating window by
either dragging it out on the viewer or going to the main menu and se-
lecting Window > Create Floating Tool > Curve. Now you can resize the
window and make it nice and large which will enhance your ability to
move the points with greater precision.
The other tip is to add some neutral anchor points on the curve to make
sure your adjustments don’t affect a certain tonal range. Think of these
points as a way to lock the curve to the neutral line. If you go to the
Curve tool’s Presets and select 5-point-AllChannels you will have a
great starting point.
Setting the black and white point
You can set the black and white point with the Curve tool. By setting
these correctly, you are making sure that the image spans the full tonal
range from pure black to white. If your image looks flat and dull, chances
are high that it doesn’t contain any tones near or at the blacks or whites.
Most prefer to set these with the Levels tool (see a prior chapter) be-
cause it can be done automatically and have the dedicated Pick Shadow
Level and Pick Highlight Level cursor tools.
If you want to do it with the Curve tool, just select one of the anchor
points in the lower left corner or the upper right corner and move them
inwards. The correct way is to move them, so they just touch the edge of
the histogram (see next page):
You can use these anchor points to create special effects like inverting
the image. This is done by moving the black anchor point all the way up
vertically to the Input 0 and Output 255 position, while the white anchor
point is moved all the way down to the Input 255 and Output 0 position.
Note that you can also set the anchor point for each color channel indi-
vidually. If you move the white anchor point inwards, it will introduce a
color cast of the channel you use it on. However, if you move the black
anchor inwards, it will introduce a color cast that is the complementary
color of the channel in use.
All this power can be used to color correct an image that has a specific
color cast. The color channels in the Curve tool are arguably more pow-
erful than those in the Levels tool as you can make more precise adjust-
ments and for example limit a change of color to the highlights, midtones
or shadow regions.
For most people, it will be more intuitive and faster to make creative col-
or styles with the excellent Color Balance tool (covered later). Working
on the individual color channels in the Curve tool does however give
you the additional option to limit the tonal range where the adjustments
happen, so keep that in mind.
Saving as a Preset
If you have found a nice combination of settings that might work great
for other images in the future, you should save them as a Preset that can
easily be reused. Click on the Preset icon in the upper right corner and
select Save User Preset....
Then click Save, and the preset is ready to be reused from the Preset
drop-down menu under User Presets.
Note that you won’t get an option to choose between the RGB, Luma,
Red, Green or Blue, all adjustments will be included. Select Curve and
hit Apply to reuse them.
Once you have created a new Layer and have masked the area you
want to affect, you can go ahead and make your selective Curve ad-
justments. They work exactly the same way as the main, global tool ex-
plored above. Note the small brush icon next to the tool name; it is in-
dicating that you are now working on a Layer, not on the Background
image.
Using the Curve tool on a specific area of the image is a very powerful
feature of Capture One Pro because it let you make precise adjustments
to contrast and brightness to that particularly region.
The possibilities are vast, so here is just a couple of ideas to get your
imagination going (see next page):
Superior Dodge and Burn
Most people use the Exposure slider (in the Exposure tool) when do-
ing a selective Dodge or Burn on the image to either brighten or dark-
en the area. The Exposure slider is a bit of a blunt instrument, however,
because all tones are shifted equally. A better option would be to use
the Curve tool with a Luma curve where you brighten or darken the mid-
tones with higher precision.
In a way, you could say that the Clarity slider applies sharpening with a
very broad brush, while Structure does it with a fine brush. Another way
to think of the relationship between contrast and sharpening is the fol-
lowing hierarchy; Contrast > Clarity > Structure > Sharpening going from
a global to a more local adjustment for each step.
The Clarity slider works a bit like using the Unsharp Mask Filter in Pho-
toshop and setting the Radius very high to for example 50 to 100 pixels
wide. The Structure slider works with a much smaller pixel radius and
enhances the micro-contrast, not unlike the regular sharpening tools.
The net effect is that Clarity adds some punch and pop to the image,
while Structure adds some bite.
Clarity can help reduce the effect of haze in the image, but it is most of-
ten used when the image looks a bit flat and lacks some presence, pop
or just clarity as the name implies. It is typically something you would
add a landscape image, but it is down to taste. Some love it and apply it
generously while others just add a touch. It obviously also depends on
the subject as Clarity will not work well with female skin tones, for exam-
ple. Note however, that you can also add a negative Clarity value which
will smooth out the image and give a dreamy look with a slight glow that
can look great on female portraits if not overdone.
Punch applies the strongest effect but can introduce false colors and
clip highlights, so be aware of that. The Neutral method doesn’t have
the problem with false colors, but can still clip highlight, and finally, you
have Natural that takes care of both those issues. In other words, Natu-
ral is less likely to introduce any unwanted side effects.
The Classic method originates from Capture One Pro version 6 and
applies a very different local contrast than the other three methods. It
gives a more localized, crunchy effect that makes details stand out more
than the newer Natural method which works with a broader brush, so to
speak.
Natural is better suited to add overall clarity and pop to for example
landscapes, while Classic will accentuate edges and details more, per-
fect for architecture and other subjects where the details make the im-
age. The difference between Natural and Classic is also quite apparent
when using a negative value. Where Natural will apply a dreamy look,
Classic will smooth details out in a way that looks more natural on for ex-
ample skin tones. This makes Classic a great option for female portraits
when a negative value is used.
Note that the Structure slider is less affected by the different methods
than the Clarity slider.
Saving as a Preset
If you have found some settings that will work great for other images
in the future, you can save them as a Preset that can be reused easily.
Click on the Preset icon in the upper right corner and select Save User
Preset....
You now get to choose whether you want to include both Clarity and
Structure or just one of them. Then click Save, and the preset is ready to
be applied from the Preset drop-down menu under User Presets.
Once you have created a new Layer and have masked the area you
want to affect, you can go ahead and make your selective Clarity ad-
justments. They work exactly the same way as the main, global tool ex-
plored earlier. Note the small
brush icon next to the tool
name; it is indicating that you
are now working on a Layer, not
on the Background image.
There are several reasons why you might want to limit the Clarity tool to
a specific part of the image by using a layer and a mask. Here is a cou-
ple of ideas to get your imagination going.
You can use clarity to reduce the haze in an image, but typically haze will
be more pronounced in the distance, so applying some extra clarity in
this part of the image is the best way to do it.
Using a generous amount of Clarity can really make a blue sky with
clouds pop, but it would be overkill for the rest of the image. Create a
layer for the sky only and use the Gradient Mask tool to limit the effect
to the sky. You might also want to use the Highlight slider in the High
Dynamic Range tool to recover some highlights in the clouds.
Adding Structure can greatly enhance the details, but not everything in
the image might look better with the higher micro-contrast. It can also
pronounce the noise in the image, so sometimes you need to keep the
extra Structure local with a layer and mask.
Using a negative value with the Structure slider can help get rids of
noise and smooth out unwanted detail in skin tones. These kinds of im-
age adjustments are normally best kept local and painting them in with a
brush on a mask.
Improving colors with the Color Editor tool
One of the most powerful image editing tools in Capture One Pro is
without a doubt the Color Editor tool which allows you to select a cer-
tain range of colors and then tweak the hue, saturation, and lightness to
taste. The Color Editor tool also has a fabulous feature that can even out
a selection of colors, like skin tones, for a more clean and smooth look.
The Color Editor tool has three tabs. We will cover the first Basic tab
somewhat quickly, as the really cool features are found in the Advanced
and Skin Tone tabs.
Basic Tab
The Basic tab is the only one available
in the free Capture One Express for
Sony version of the software. It con-
tains six predefined color segments
(red, yellow, green, cyan, blue, magen-
ta) as noted on the color wheel and in
the color correction list below.
If you want to delete one of the entries, click on the – (minus) icon under
the list. Note how you can hide and show a color correction by clicking
on the box with a checkmark.
Tweaking the color range selection
You have full control over which colors
that you want to include in a certain col-
or correction. Once you have made the
initial selecting of a color, you can tweak
the affected color range by dragging its
boundaries in the color wheel. You can
expand or contract the color range by
dragging either the handles at the bor-
der of the color wheel or by dragging
the highlighted boundaries on the se-
lected color range itself. You can also
expand or contract the saturation range
by dragging on the inner and outer
highlighted boundaries.
The uniformity effect can be overdone, of course, and you should be es-
pecially careful about moving the Lightness slider all the way up to 100
as this can lead to a washed-out and unnatural looking result.
There is one circumstance where setting all the Uniformity sliders to
near the max makes good sense. If you want to get rid of noise in a par-
ticular color area, the Skin Tone can be an excellent solution, but you
should use it on a layer in the Layers tool so that you can limit the effect
with a mask.
Save a color selection as mask
A very powerful feature of Capture One Pro and the Color Editor is the
ability to convert any color selection into a mask which can then be used
as a Layer. Once you have selected the color range, you just need to
click on the options icon and choose Create Masked Layer from Selec-
tion.
Capture One Pro will now automatically create a new layer with the
mask applied in the Layers tool, ready to use. This is very powerful be-
cause you now get access to tools like White Balance, High Dynamic
Range, Curve, Clarity and even the Color Editor tool itself and those ad-
justments will only be applied to the mask area the mirrors your color se-
lection.
As a very nice feature, the mask will be created with varying opacity if
the selected color range has a gradual transition as controlled by the
Smoothness slider. This will ensure that you won’t get a harsh transition
when applying a local adjustment.
You should remember that you can edit the auto-created mask further
with the brush as we will explore in a later Layers chapter. This makes
the feature very powerful because it can greatly speed up the work
when you have to make a complex mask that might match certain colors.
When you have made your color adjustments, just click on the options
icon and choose Save as ICC Profile…
Then give the color correction a name and save it. Once saved, you can
choose it from the Base Characteristics tool under ICC Profile where it
usually will be named Color Corrected (see next page):
You can save several ICC Profiles that are optimized for different sub-
jects or lighting circumstances. The saved ICC profiles are based upon
the selected camera ICC profile, so if you want to reuse a certain color
correction for several cameras, it is a better option to just save those as
Presets.
Saving color adjustments as a Preset
If you have found a color correction that could work great for other im-
ages in the future, you should save them as a Preset that can easily be
reused. Click on the Preset icon in the upper right corner and select
Save User Preset....
You now get to choose which kind of color edit you want to include, di-
vided by the Basic, Advanced and Skin Tone tabs.
Then click Save, and the preset is ready to be applied from the Preset
drop-down menu under User Presets.
Once you have created a new Layer and have masked the area you
want to affect, you can go ahead and make your selective color adjust-
ments with the Basic, Advanced and Skin Tone tabs. They work exactly
the same way as the main, global tool explored above.
Note the small brush icon next to the
tool name; it is indicating that you
are now working on a Layer, not on
the Background image.
This is nice because you can immediately select the next image and
make a crop on that for a fast workflow. Once done, exit the Crop tool by
selecting for example the Pan tool by hitting the keyboard shortcut H.
Selecting an Aspect Ratio
You might want to change the aspect ratio of the crop, and this can be
done from either the Crop cursor tool drop-down menu (by clicking and
holding on the Crop cursor tool icon) or from the Ratio drop-down menu
in the Crop tool.
Note that the Ratio drop-down menu in the Crop tool has exactly the
same options, just use what suits you the best.
Readjusting a crop
Once you have applied a crop, you can move it around by clicking inside
the cropped area and dragging it to a new location. If you are using the
Unconstrained ratio, the cropped area can be adjusted freely to click-
ing on a border and dragging, but if you have selected a locked ratio,
you need to click and drag on one of the four corners to resize the crop.
Clicking and dragging on a border will merely move the crop in this in-
stance.
Removing a crop
If you want to remove a crop entirely, you need to click on the Reset
icon in the Crop tool.
You cannot run this command from the Crop cursor tool. Here is a neat
trick though; if you right-click in the Viewer while the Crop cursor tool is
selected, the Crop tool will pop up temporarily, and you can make any
changes you want, including hitting the Reset icon. Note that the Crop
tool will stay on the screen as long as you hover the mouse pointer over
the tool, once you move the mouse away, the tool will disappear.
Setting a specific crop size
You can set your own specific crop size by entering the values in the
Size fields and choosing the size unit from the Size drop-down menu.
There is a couple of things you need to be aware regarding the size for-
mat options in the Crop tool as these can be restricted depending on
the settings in the Process Recipe tool in the Output Tool Tab. This can
be a bit confusing for new Capture One Pro users.
Another thing to be aware of is that the Crop tool will always respect the
chosen resolution in the Process Recipe tool. This means that you can-
not use a crop size that would demand a larger resolution than the im-
age file entail. For example, if the Resolution is set to 300 px/in in the
Process Recipe tool, and the maximum printed image would be 60 x
40 cm base on the number of pixels in the image, then you cannot set a
crop size to 80 x 50 cm. Capture One Pro will readjust the entered num-
ber to fit what is possible based on the chosen resolution.
Just remember to keep an eye on the chosen Resolution in the Process
Recipe tool and change that if need be.
The Crop Outside Image option is useful if you rotate an image and
need to crop outside its borders.
The Respect crop option will include the crop as expected, but you can
also choose Ignore crop and export the image in its original resolution.
You also have the Crop to path (PSD) option where Capture One Pro
will embed the crop outline as a Photoshop Path in the exported PSD
file. The crop outline can then be found in the Path panel in Photoshop
where it is called Crop (Capture One). You can load it by clicking on it.
Note that this feature is only available if you have selected PSD as the
file format from the Basic tab.
Working with a crop grid as aid
You can change the type of grid shown as a compositional aid when do-
ing a crop in the preferences. The easiest way to change this is to click
on the options icon and select Preferences….
You can insert a guide by choosing View > Add Guide and then select-
ing to create either a Horizontal Guide or a Vertical Guide. These can
be moved into the desired position by clicking on the lines and dragging
with either the Pan or Select cursor tools.
Note how these guides are always placed inside and relative to the
cropped area and will automatically reposition themselves if you change
your crop.
You can delete a single guide by dragging it to the edge of image bor-
der or removed them all at once by selecting View > Clear Guides.
You can also hide them by selecting View > Hide Grid and Guides or us-
ing the keyboard shortcut command + G. The color of the guides can be
changed from orange in the Crop preferences.
Getting the angle right with Rotation & Flip
The Rotation & Flip tool can both be used to rotate your image in fixed
increments like 90 degrees or at a specific angle to get it level. You can
also use the tool to flip the entire image if you need to change it in a hor-
izontal or vertical direction.
The four different rotate cursor tools are the same whether you choose
them from the Cursor Toolbar or the Rotation & Flip tool. You can switch
between them by using the keyboard shortcut Shift + R.
The Rotation & Flip tool gives you some additional options as you can
fine-tune the rotation by dragging the Angle slider or enter a specific val-
ue on the box. The Left and Right buttons rotate the image 90 degrees
left or right.
Getting your images level
It is easy to make sure that your images are level with the Straighten
cursor tool. It can be activated from the Rotation & Flip tool, the Cursor
Toolbar, or by hitting the keyboard shortcut R. Once the Straighten cur-
sor is selected, you simply click and drag with the tool along a line in the
image that should be level.
When you let go, Capture One Pro will automatically rotate the image, so
the chosen line is level in either the horizontal or vertical direction. The
image is also automatically cropped for you. Once done, you can easi-
ly exit the Straighten cursor tool by selecting the Pan tool with the key-
board shortcut H.
Finally, you can rotate the image in 90 degrees by choosing either the
Rotate Left or Rotate Right cursor tools. They will rotate the image each
time you click with them selected and note how they respect the initial
angle you might have applied with the Straighten or Rotate Freehand
cursor tool.
Note that you can fine-tune the crop after the fact by choosing the Crop
cursor tool and adjusting it to obtain a better composition. For this rea-
son, it is recommended to straighten the image before you apply the fi-
nal crop.
You cannot do this from the Rotate cursor tool. However, if you right-
click in the Viewer while the Rotate cursor tool is selected, the Rotation
& Flip tool will pop up temporarily, and you can make any changes you
want, including hitting the Reset icon.
Copy and reuse an adjustment
If you want to copy an adjustment to
other selected images, just click on
the Copy icon.
There are three different cursor tools to choose. One that only corrects
for vertical distortion, one for horizontal distortion and finally one that
corrects for both types at the same time.
Once you have set the markers, just click on Apply in the middle of the
image and Capture One Pro will correct the perspective distortion. The
image will also be cropped automatically.
Note that you can also stretch the image either vertically or horizontal-
ly with the Aspect slider if the proportions of the subject become slight-
ly distorted from the perspective correction. A negative value will com-
press the image on the vertical axis, while a positive value will compress
it horizontally.
A very slight negative Aspect value can also be used to make people
and faces look slimmer and taller, but this is a trick that obviously should
be used with caution.
A handy trick to get to the tool fast is to right-click in the Viewer while a
Keystone cursor tool is selected, then the Keystone tool will pop up tem-
porarily, and you can make any changes you want, including hitting the
Reset icon.
Note that this feature corrects the vertical distortion as well as straight-
en the image, so if you want to reset the correction, you should also re-
member to reset the automatically applied rotation in the Rotation & Flip
tool if needed.
By default, Capture One Pro will set the Amount slider to 80 when it
has applied an automatic keystone correction. As noted earlier, this will
make the correction look more natural to the eye.
You can then reuse the preset by selecting it under User Presets. One
word of warning though; a Keystone Correction should ideally be done
on an image-per-image basis, so only reuse a Keystone Preset on imag-
es are exactly the same as the Preset-based image.
Optimize the details with Sharpening
Getting the optimal sharpening is always a matter of compromise be-
cause overdoing it can introduce artifacts like halos and amplify the
noise in the image. The Sharpening tool is a couple of features to help
mitigate these problems so that you can retrieve even the finest details
without issues. Before getting into the features, you need a short intro-
duction to the sharpen concept in Capture One Pro.
The first step is called Capture Sharpening, and the aim here is to coun-
teract the loss of fine detail that happens during image capture. This
softness comes from anti-aliasing filters on the sensor, the demosaicing
process that all raw files must go through, and of cause the slight blur
the lens might add on top. This first-step Capture Sharpening is handled
by the Sharpening tool that will be covered in a moment.
The third and final step in the workflow is called Output Sharpening
and is handled by the Process Recipe tool where you can apply extra
sharpening that is optimized for either print or screen. This part will be
covered in the later chapter about the Process Recipe tool. The Output
Sharpening is detached from the rest of the sharpening process so that
you can easily print and share the same image in the different sizes and
formats without having to redo the sharpening for each new output me-
dia.
The important point to be made regarding Capture Sharpening is that
the Sharpening tool should only be used to restore the capture details,
not to prepare the image to be printed, for instance. This means that less
sharpening should typically be applied at this point than one would nor-
mally do with a one-step sharpening workflow.
It should be noted that Capture One Pro tends to apply more capture
sharpening than for example Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw, but on
the other hand it will also add a touch of Luminance noise reduction to
counter any increased noise. You may very well be satisfied with the de-
faults, but you can easily tweak this to taste and set it as a new default
for your camera.
It will also increase the noise in the image and make fine lines jagged in-
stead of being rendered smooth. You will probably find that a value be-
tween 100 and 300 achieve the best results.
The Radius slider controls how wide an area, measured in pixels, the
sharpness should be applied to. Remember that the tool looks for edg-
es, so the Radius determines how many pixels on each side on a detect-
ed edge where the contrast will be increased. Ideally, the Radius should
be set so that the fine details are enhanced, but this depends heavily
on the captured quality. A landscape or architecture image captured by
high-quality camera and lens at low ISO can benefit from a low Radius
amount, while an image with a lot of noise might need a higher value.
A high amount like in the example above will introduce halos with dom-
inant dark and bright edges that will obscure the finer details and in ef-
fect be counterproductive. A value between 0,7 and 1,3 should strike a
good balance in most cases.
Note that a high Threshold value can also remove the sharpening ef-
fect from the fine detail with low contrast, so be careful not to adjust it
too high. A value between 0,5 and 1,0 will strike a good balance in most
cases. Note that it might be a better solution to use the Noise Reduction
tool to reduce noise rather than increasing the Threshold.
The Halo suppression slider is extremely useful to counteract some of
the halos that appear when you need to use high Amount and/or Radius
values like in the example below.
Note that if you are working with a high-resolution monitor with a Retina
screen, you should consider checking the sharpness at 200% because
the pixels are by design made so small that you cannot distinguish clear-
ly between them.
Shift your focus to a part of the image with smooth tones like a sky or
a blurred area and adjust the Threshold slider until the low-level noise
here is no longer sharpen by the tool. A value of 1 is often a good bal-
ance, but at higher ISO values you could increase it to 1,5. If you must go
beyond the value of 2, chances are high that you need to apply noise re-
duction instead.
If there are halos in the image from the sharpening, you should increase
the Halo suppression value until they go away. Just keep an eye on a
high detailed part of the image and adjust accordingly. Note that you can
get away with higher Amount and Radius values if you combine them
with some Halo suppression. For example, if you have a slightly soft im-
age, you can try to increase the Radius to 2,0 and add Halo suppression
to counteract the halo effect.
Tip You can assign keyboard shortcuts to control the four sliders. Go to
the menu and select Capture One > Edit Keyboard Shortcuts…, then
open the Other and Sharpening list to see the options. This can greatly
speed up your workflow if you find yourself tweaking the sharpness lev-
el often.
You can also save and reuse a sharpening setup easily by selecting
Save User Preset... instead. You now get to choose whether you want
to include all the four sliders or only some of them. Then click Save, and
the preset is ready to be applied from the Preset drop-down menu un-
der User Presets.
Copy and reuse an adjustment
If you want to copy an adjustment to other selected images, just click on
the Copy icon. You now get the option to choose whether Sharpening
Amount, Sharpening Radius, Sharpening Threshold and Sharpening
Halo Suppression should be copied over to the other images.
Capture One Pro also has a nice feature to help resolve the issue with
soft corners in the image. You can correct this with the Sharpness Falloff
slider in the Lens Corrections tool, but make sure that you have made
the proper global adjustments with Sharpening tool first. Once you have
done that, mitigate the soft corners issue with the Sharpness Falloff fea-
ture.
Improving sharpness with Structure
As a part of the Creative Sharpening step, you might want to enhance
the sharpness further with the Clarity tool. The Clarity slider is mostly
suited to add punch, presence, and clarity to the image, but the Struc-
ture slider is closely linked to sharpening as it enhances the micro-con-
trast in the image.
It works in a slightly different way than the Sharpening tool and should
be your go-to feature when you want to add some bite to the captures.
In some cases, you might not need to tweak the sharpness value at all
but can go straight to Structure to get the result you want.
Making Localized Adjustments on a Layer
Using Layers and Masks will be explored in full detail in a later chapter,
so, for now, you just need to know that you can limit the effect of the
Sharpening tool to a specific area of the image by creating a new layer
and painting a mask with the brush. This is done in the Layer tool placed
near the top of the Details Tab.
Once you have created a new Layer and have masked the area you
want to affect, you can go ahead and make your selective Sharpening
adjustments. They work exactly the same way as the main, global tool
explored above. Note the small brush icon next to the tool name; it is in-
dicating that you are now working on a Layer, not on the Background
image.
For example, you might want to enhance the sharpness of the eyes and
eyelashes in a portrait without affecting the subtle skin tones. Another
use could be to improve the details of the fur or feathers in a wildlife im-
age, a subject of interest in a landscape photograph, the name label in a
product shot, and so forth.
All cameras have their own customized noise reduction that is optimized
for each ISO value by the team behind Capture One Pro. This means
that the hard work is already done, and Capture One Pro will provide
you with a tailored noise reduction that can be fine-tuned further if need
be.
There is one important thing to be aware of when you work with the
Noise Reduction tool. As you will note, both the Luminance and Col-
or noise reduction sliders are by default are set to 50, but this does not
mean that a heavy dose of noise reduction is applied, or that all images
receive the same amount of noise reduction.
You should instead think of the sliders of a way to control the balance
between preserving detail and reducing noise. When at 50, it merely
means that this is what Phase One regards as the best balance. You can
increase the amount of noise reduction by setting the Luminance and
Color sliders higher than 50 or decrease the amount by setting them
lower than 50.
The Details slider works in conjunction with the Luminance noise reduc-
tion amount and lets you increase micro-detail at the expense of more
noise when you move it above 50, while you can smooth out the noise
at the cost of detail with a value below 50.
It is impossible to recommend
certain values to use with the Lu-
minance, Detail and Color slid-
ers because this depends on
the noise level in the image, the
quality of the light and your pref-
erence. In most cases, you will
probably find that the default Col-
or noise reduction works great.
The only thing you need to pay
attention to is that the colors can
be blurred too much and lose definition if you set a high amount, like
100.
The hardest part about removing noise is to strike the right balance be-
tween applying a nice luminance noise reduction and still retain the de-
tails. Instead of just increasing the Luminance slider to the max to get rid
of the grain, you might want to reduce Detail the same amount as you
increase the Luminance so that the values would be Luminance 70 and
Detail 30 as an example.
If you still struggle with getting rid of the noise, there is a couple of addi-
tional tricks you can use.
You can increase the Threshold value in the Sharpening tool to make
sure fewer details get sharpening applied, and you can use a negative
value with the Structure slider in the Clarity slider.
Finally, if you have trouble with a lot of noise on an even surface like the
sky, the Skin Tone tab in the Color Editor tool has a marvelously Unifor-
mity feature that even out the tones and thus mitigate the noise. This
trick will be covered later in this chapter.
Both the Structure and Skin Tone trick is probably best applied on a lay-
er with the Layers tool because you can then limit their effect with a
mask.
You should be aware that Capture One Pro might automatically add
some simulated grain with the Film Grain tool to help get a more natural
noise look at higher ISO values. If you find that this adds more grain that
you like, remember to set the Impact slider back to 0 (zero) in the Film
Grain tool.
Saving as a Preset
If you have found a combination of noise reduction settings that work
very well for you, it would be a good idea to save them as a Preset that
can easily be reused. Click on the Preset icon in the upper right corner
and select Save User Preset....
Then check the list to see whether your lens is supported, and select it.
Note that Capture One Pro sometimes offer both a Manufacturer Profile
and another profile with the lens name; in the case below it is Zeiss Dis-
tagon T FE 35 mm F1.4 ZA (SEL35F14Z).
You can use both, but there is a distinct difference you should be aware
of.
Correcting distortion
Lens distortion can either be barrel or pincushion distortion, and Capture
One Pro can correct for both with the Distortion slider. When the slid-
er is at 100%, the distortion in question is fully corrected. With a normal
zoom lens, the Distortion slider will usually correct for barrel distortion
at the wide end and pincushion distortion at the long end. Capture One
Pro will change this behavior depending on the focal length data in the
image file. Once you move the slider, a grid is displayed temporarily over
the image to help you set the correct amount by comparing the grid
lines to vertical or horizontal lines in the image.
Note that even when Capture One Pro has recognized a correct profile
for your lens, a distortion correction might not be applied automatical-
ly. In this case, the slider is set at 0%. Distortion correction is enabled
(the slider is at 100%) for lenses where the distortion exceeds a certain
amount that Phase One sees suitable, and they accept more barrel dis-
tortion than pincushion. With a zoom lens, where the distortion amount
and type usually change based on the focal length, you might see distor-
tion correction enabled at some focal lengths and not others.
Correcting soft corners
Capture One Pro has a very nice feature to help resolve the issue with
soft corners in the image. This is mostly known with wide-angle lenses
where the aperture has not been stopped down. You can correct this
with the Sharpness Falloff slider but be aware that the lens profile must
support this feature. The areas you want to correct should be in focus
for it to work properly.
Zoom into a corner of the image in the Viewer and move the Sharpness
Falloff slider until the details become sharper. Note that you can move
the slider all the way up to 250% which is probably excessive for most
uses, but the option is there if needed.
Correcting Vignetting & Light Falloff
Vignetting – called Light Falloff in Capture One Pro – happens when
more light reaches the center of the frame than in the corners. This issue
is mostly seen when you are shooting at wide apertures and on wide an-
gle lenses. You can correct this with the Light Falloff slider.
Note that Capture One Pro does not correct for light falloff by default.
The only exception is if the correction is turned on in the camera settings
and you are using a Manufacturer Profile (see above).
If you prefer to apply the vignetting correction often, it might be a good
idea to create a preset for it. Set Light Falloff to 50% or 100%, then click
on the Preset icon and select Save User Preset…
This will mainly benefit the corrections for distortion and light falloff.
Note that you might also have to enter the used Focal Length and Aper-
ture (f) if the camera didn’t record the information correctly.
Select the corrections that you want to copy, and hit Apply to reuse
them.
Note that this will not affect the images that you have already imported
or opened. It will only take effect once when you import images in the
future.
Removing purple fringing
Purple fringing can be reduced or removed altogether with the Pur-
ple Fringing tool. Purple fringing is similar to chromatic aberration as it
shows itself on the edges of very high contrast. This will typically occur
with metallic products or other subjects shot against a bright sky or light.
While chromatic aberration will often show fringes of different colors,
purple fringing is normally just a magenta color. You can remove it by
moving the Defringe slider towards 100%.
Saving as a Preset
You can save a certain Defringe amount and save it for later reuse by
clicking on the Preset icon in the upper
right corner and select Save User Preset....
Select Fringing, click Save, and the preset
is ready to be applied from the Preset drop-
down menu under User Presets.
Copy and reuse an adjustment
If you want to copy a Defringe amount to
other selected images, just click on the
Copy icon.
Once you have created a new Layer and have masked the area you
want to affect, you can go ahead and make your selective Purple Fring-
ing adjustments. It works the same way as the main, global tool explored
above. Note the small brush icon next to the tool name; it is indicating
that you are now working on a Layer, not on the Background image.
Correction for lens cast with the LCC tool
If you are shooting with a Technical Camera, chances are high that the
image will have a notable color cast. This can be removed with the help
of the Lens Cast Calibration (LCC) tool. It should be stressed that the
LCC tool can also be used to correct for vignetting and remove dust
spots for a normal lens and camera combination, so the tool is more ver-
satile that it might appear at first.
Capturing a reference LCC image
For the LCC tool to work, you need to capture a reference test shot to
create an LCC profile first. This LCC reference capture needs to be cre-
ated under the same conditions as the image that you want to apply
the corrections to, otherwise the result will be less than optimal. This
means using the same lens and camera, the same aperture and compo-
sition. Any Tilt or Shift adjustments should be kept the same too. In other
words, it makes the most sense to capture the LCC reference shot just
before or after having captured the real images.
Once you are ready, hold a neutral translucent plate in front of the lens
and make the capture. If you don’t have a plate purposely made for the
task, you can use a white paper as long as the material is translucent
and even. Note that you might need to increase the exposure time about
two or three stops compared to the real image in order to get a good ex-
posure.
This will take a little extra time to compute, so keep that in mind. If you
are using a technical camera with a wide-angle lens that has some
movement, you should select Wide Angle Lens with Movements. This
option initiates a special LCC process that is designed to correct for spe-
cific banding at the extreme edge of the image circle on higher resolu-
tion digital backs. Once ready, click Create.
The LCC calibration might take a few seconds. The created LCC Profile
will be applied automatically to the refer-
ence shot, letting you check immediately
whether it was successful. It should show
an even light grey image without a color
cast, vignetting or dust spots if you have
selected that option.
Note that you can select multiple images and apply the same LCC profile
to them all by using the same process.
Once an LCC profile has been applied, you can fine tune its effect on the
image with the LCC tool. You can turn the color cast correction on and
off with the Color Cast option as well as the Dust Removal, if any dust
was found on the reference image. You can also control the correction
of vignetting with Enable Uniform Light and the Uniform Light slider. You
might for example want to dial the correction down a bit to 75% with the
slider in order to retain some of the light falloff.
You can remove a LCC profile from an image by clicking on the Reset
icon at the top of the tool.
You can rearrange the position of the images in the Browser if need be.
Changing the defaults
You can change whether the options Include Dust Removal Informa-
tion and Wide Angle Lens with Movements should be enabled by de-
fault each time you create a new LCC profile. This is done by click-
ing on the options icon and choosing Creating LCC Options and
then making sure they are enabled if so desired. The option Include
Technical Lens Correction Data includes any offset Shift data that
you have entered in the Movement tab of the Lens Correction tool.
You can also change what amount the Uniform Light slider should be
set to by default when the profile is applied to an image. Select the Ap-
ply LCC Options…, check the Uniform Light box, set the slider to the de-
sired amount, and click OK.
Saving as a Preset
You can save and reuse an LCC profile easily by adding it as a Preset.
Click on the Manage Preset icon and select Save User Preset...
You now get the options to choose which corrections that should be a
part of the Preset. You should deselect Dust Removal as dust spots will
change over time.
Then click Save, and the preset is ready to be applied fast and quick to
several images.
Copy and reuse an adjustment
If you want to copy an LCC adjustment
to other selected images, just click on
the Copy icon. You now get the option
to choose which of the corrections that
should be carried over to the other im-
ages. Select the desired ones and hit
Apply to reuse them.
Removing moiré
You can remove the artificial color patterns known as moiré with the
Moire tool. Moiré can occur in areas of the image that contain very fine
details like clothing and architecture and will show up as an abnormal
color pattern on top of high-frequency details in the photo.
You are most likely to encounter moiré in parts of the image that con-
tain narrow stripes or patterns that have a lot of fine lines. A shirt with
detailed fabric is a prime example. It is important that you zoom to 100%
when you are checking for moiré because the preview image might
show moiré even if it is not there. The reason for this is that the preview
image is of lower resolution than the real image and this can create in-
terference that looks like moiré.
The Moire tool can be used both globally on the whole image and as a
Layers adjustment. It is however unusual that you will encounter moiré
over the entire image, so for the most part you should apply the cor-
rection as a local adjustment because you might otherwise risk some
unwanted color bleeding in parts of the image that have no issue with
moiré.
Using Layers and Masks will be explored in full detail in a later chapter,
but you can limit the effect of the Moire tool to a specific area of the im-
age by creating a new layer and painting a mask with the brush. This is
done in the Layer tool placed near the top of the Details Tab.
Click on the + (plus) icon and select New Empty Layer to create a new
layer. Then use the keyboard shortcut B to select the brush and paint
over the area with the moiré.
Finally, readjust the Pattern radius as low as possible while still removing
the moiré. Keeping the Amount and Pattern values as low as possible is
important as it will reduce the risk of unwanted color bleeding.
Removing moiré in the image editing process can be time-consuming, so
it is always better to try and avoid it when shooting. Often the moiré will
disappear if you move the camera a bit forward or backward or change
the aperture.
Saving as a Preset
If you have found some settings that will work great, you can save them
as a Preset that can be reused easily. Click on the Preset icon in the up-
per right corner and select Save User Preset....
If you are having problems with spots from the sensor, you should
choose Dust. This method is optimized to remove only the slightly
blurred, round dark spots you get from dirt on the sensor. It will for ex-
ample not remove a bright or colored spot.
The Spot type has a more profound effect. When using this method, the
colors and textures from the surrounding areas are used to replace the
content of the spot which is excellent when you want to remove a blem-
ish in a portrait or an unwanted mark in the image.
You remove a spot by choosing the Remove Spot cursor from either the
tool, the Cursor Toolbar, or by using the keyboard shortcut O. Move the
Radius slider to adjust the size of the spot removal area, which should
be somewhat larger than the dust in order to remove it efficiently. Then
click right over the dust spot on the image to remove it. You can add as
many spot removal areas as you like. Note how a Dust and Spot circles
are different so that you easily can differentiate between them when
looking on the image:
You can resize a spot removal area after the fact by dragging the edge
of the spot or adjust the Radius slider. This might be necessary if the ini-
tial circle wasn’t big enough to remove the spot completely. If you right-
click on the image, the Spot Removal tool will pop-up temporarily for you
to adjust the Radius slider. The spot circle can always be repositioned by
clicking on it and dragging it to a new position.
If you need to delete a spot, click on the - (minus) button in the Spot Re-
moval tool or select it and hit delete on the keyboard.
If you have added multiple removal spots, you can select a specific one
by either clicking on it, choosing it from the Spot drop-down menu or cy-
cle through them by clicking on the arrows.
Keep in mind that you need to have the Remove Spot cursor tool acti-
vated to see where the edits have been made. You can active the Re-
move Spot cursor tool by using the keyboard shortcut O and deactivate
it again by selecting for example the Pan cursor tool by using the key-
board shortcut H.
It is only recommended to copy and reuse spot removal points that are
using the Dust method as it has much less of an effect on the image. If
you want to reuse areas with the Spot type, you certainly can, just keep
in mind that you should review how those copied spot removals effect
the images.
If you move a slider to a negative amount, that color area will become
darker in the image, while a positive value will brighten it. For example,
if you want to darken a blue sky to add drama to your black and white
landscape conversion, you should move the Blue slider to a negative
value.
You can now control what color tint you want to apply to the highlights
and shadows respectively with the two Hue sliders and adjust their color
intensity with the Saturation sliders. You will find it easier to discover the
right Hue setting by using a high Saturation amount temporarily. Once
you have dialed in the desired tint, move the Saturation slider back
down to a good-looking amount.
Most black and white images look best if you have the black and white
point set correctly, which is easily done automatically by clicking on
the A icon in the Levels tool. This will make sure that the image has a
good-looking base contrast that you can fine-tune. You can then use the
Highlight and Shadow sliders in the High Dynamic Range tool to help
recover details in the darkest and brightest areas of the image.
You might think that the white balance is irrelevant when working on a
black and white conversion, but it can actually have a big impact on the
light balance and contrast of the image. Don’t forget to try and use the
Kelvin and Tint sliders in the White Balance tool creatively to get a good
starting point.
The Black & White tool is not present as a Layers adjustment, but this
shouldn’t be an issue as you can use the other tools like White Balance,
Color Balance, Exposure, Curve, and Clarity locally with layers and
masks on your black and white image. These are really all you need to
tweak the light balance and contrast to perfection.
Tip: If you want to make just a part of the image black and white, you
could create a Layer and mute the colors with the Saturation slider in ei-
ther the Exposure or the Color Balance tool. Then apply a mask to the
area where you want to remove the colors.
Adding photorealistic grain with Film Grain
Capture One Pro has an excellent tool to add natural looking film grain
to your images. The grain is based on a computer algorithm instead of
just adding a pre-cooked texture upon the image and simulates the be-
havior of different traditional silver halide films. This means that the Film
Grain tool preserves the underlying detail and structure in the image.
You can choose between different types of grain algorithms from the
Type drop-down menu, and they will alter the shape, distribution, and
size of the grains.
You should note that the default Type called Fine Grain is actually not
one of the advanced simulated types, so it is highly recommended to
use one of the others. The Silver Rich type is an excellent choice.
Note that you should always zoom into 100% in the Viewer in order to
fully review and adjust the appearance of the added grain.
You have two sliders to tweak the look of the film grain. The Impact slid-
er controls how strong the effect of the film grain should appear. When
at 100, you are simulating how the grain would look in a real film. The
Granularity slider controls the amount of grain. The higher amount, the
more course and strong the grain will show up. At the maximum, you will
get a lot of salt and pepper-looking grain in the image, so if you want to
simulate a fine-grained film, you should not use an amount over 30-40.
A good approach to get the right look is to set the Impact slider all the
way up to 100 temporarily. Then tweak the Granularity slider to find a
pleasing level of grain, and finally adjust the Impact slider again to get
the perfect level.
When you want to explore the look of the different film grain types, it is a
good idea to set Impact to 100 and Granularity to 30.
Adding some film grain makes great sense when you’re trying to mimic
older color photography or just want to add a bit of texture to an image
that looks too “clean” or sterile for the subject at hand.
You will find that the Film Grain tool does a good job of preserving the
details in your images, so don’t hesitate to experiment with it since you
can fine-tune the visual impact to be subtle. It also works great with the
creative color styles that you can achieve with the Color Balance tool
(covered in a later chapter).
If you want to add film grain to an image that is going to be resized, you
need to use a special trick. First, select the desired recipe in the Process
Recipes tool.
Then go to the menu and select View > Show Recipe Proofing. Now the
image will be resized automatically to the target output, and you can add
the film grain that will suit your resized image perfectly.
Creative color styles with Color Balance
It is both easy and fun to make your own creative color styles with the
intuitive Color Balance tool. The tool is very similar to the color grad-
ing tools you might know from video editing software, and it let you add
a color tint separately to the shadows, midtones, and highlights for a
unique look.
By default, the Color Balance tool has the 3-Way tab active, where you
can control the tint of both the Shadow, Midtone, and Highlight. It gives
you a nice overview, but the color wheels are fairly small, so it can be dif-
ficult to adjust the tint precisely. Therefore, you might want to select the
other tabs in order to tweak the color with greater control for each tonal
range.
Adding a color tint
It is straightforward to add a tint to either the whole image (Master tab)
or the shadows, midtones, and highlights. Just click on the color wheel
in the hue area you want to add. You can hold the mouse button down
and drag around in the color wheel to see the effect on the image. Note
that the closer to the center, the lower the saturation of the tint will be,
and vice versa if you drag the point towards to outer border.
The level of saturation can also be adjusted with the big slider on the left
of the color wheel. To get the tint just right, it can be helpful to start with
a high level of saturation to be able to judge the hue more clearly, then
lower the saturation to a pleasing level with the slider on the left. The ef-
fect can be quite subtle when you use a very low saturation setting.
You can also adjust the brightness of the applied tint with the slider on
the right, making it either darker or brighter. Note that this slider will
work in the Shadow, Midtone and Highlight tab even if you haven’t se-
lected a hue yet.
Once you have created your own a great looking color style, remember
to save it for later reuse by selecting the Save User Preset… from the
drop-down menu.
If you want to achieve a color style that has a more distinct look like an
old-school color film, don’t forget to use the Master tab too. Adding a tint
here will cover the entire tonal range which can then be tweaked further
with the Shadow, Midtone and Highlight tabs.
The Color Balance tool does work on images that you have converted to
greyscale with the Black & White tool. This can be used to create some
beautiful Tritone black and white images by adding a tint in the Shadow,
Midtone and Highlight tabs.
Instead of removing the colors entirely with the Black & White tool, you
can choose to mute them a bit by setting the Saturation slider in the Ex-
posure tool to for example -60.
This will retain some of the original colors in the image while making
your Color Balance tool adjustments more noticeable. This combination
is a great foundation for creating some very nice color styles.
Using Color Balance on a Layer can also be very effective when you
need to counteract an unwanted color cast in the shadows. Just dial in
the complementary color in the Shadow Tab to cancel the color cast out,
then limit the effect by a mask, making sure only the needed areas get
the treatment.
Adding a border shadow with Vignetting
If you want to darken or brighten the edges and corners of an image, the
Vignetting tool is the solution. This tool is meant to be a creative look
adjustment and shouldn’t be used to counteract any vignetting your lens
might have. If you want to do an optical correction, you should use the
Light Falloff slider in the Lens Correction tool instead.
The Vignetting tool is straightforward to use. The Amount slider will con-
trol how much the corners and edges will either be darkened or bright-
en, where a negative value will darken, and a positive will brighten.
You can change how the vignetting is applied from the Method drop-
down menu. In most cases, you will probably choose between Elliptic on
Crop or Circular on Crop as these will be applied within the cropped im-
age.
The Elliptic form will look more natural on images that have an aspect
ratio other than square as the edges on the long side will get some
amount of vignetting. If you select the Circular form, those edges on the
long side will have less of an effect applied.
Be aware that if you select the Circular option and crop the image, the
vignetting can be applied off-center, so the image will get an uneven ex-
posure that might look unnatural.
Saving as a Preset
You can save a Vignetting adjustment and save it for later reuse by click-
ing on the Preset icon in the upper right corner and select Save User
Preset....
Select Vignetting, click Save, and the preset is ready to be applied from
the Preset drop-down menu under User Presets.
Select Vignetting, and then click Apply to copy it to the other selected
images.
Reviewing colors with Lab Readout
Capture One Pro will by default display the Red, Green, and Blue image
channels as well as the Luminosity value when you hover the mouse
over an area on the image. You can also use the Color Readouts cursor
tool to add several RGB and Luminosity value readouts on the image in
the Viewer.
This is a great feature when you want to monitor a number of areas si-
multaneous when doing image editing, and this has gotten even better
in version 11 because the Lab Readout has been added.
The Lab Readout feature has the advantage of being able to describe
the luminance levels separately from the color values in a pixel. This is
in contrast to the more commonly used RGB readouts, where both col-
or and luminance levels are represented by the same Red, Green, Blue
channels.
It can be difficult to figure out whether a part of the image has become
brighter just by looking at a change in the Red, Green, or Blue color val-
ues. The Red might get be a bit brighter, and the Blue somewhat darker,
but it might not be evident whether the combined brightness stays the
same or not.
The Lab Readout solves this issue because the L value only reports the
Luminance level in the pixels, and never includes any color information.
The a and b readout, on the other hand, only reports color information,
and never includes any luminance data.
While the Lab Readout makes it much easier to inspect the Luminance
levels, it is trickier for most people to use it for color evaluation. The
reason for this is that the a value defines color ranging from -128 (a blu-
ish green) to +127 (a pinkish magenta), while the b value defines a color
ranging from -128 (blue) to +127 (yellow). If both a and b are at 0, the col-
or is a perfectly neutral gray.
You activate the Lab Readout by going to the View menu, selecting Lab
Readout and one of the built-in settings.
Explaining the different profiles goes beyond the scope of this eBook,
but keep in mind that these Lab profiles should match the destination
ICC profile to give a correct reading.
If you want to dig deeper into Lab readout feature in Capture One Pro,
please consult the online help at Phase One here:
Making local adjustments
with the Layers tool
One of the most powerful image editing features in Capture One Pro is
without a doubt the Layers tool. 12 different tools can be used on a spe-
cific area of the image with the help of layers and masks, giving your
full control over localized adjustments of exposure, contrast, and colors
amongst other image editing features.
The layer and mask system in the Layers tool work a lot like the adjust-
ment layers in Photoshop, so if you are familiar with those, you should
feel right at home in Capture One Pro.
The Layers tool is available in multiple Tool Tabs such as the Color, Ex-
posure, and the Details Tool Tab. Any local adjustments that you make
in the Layers tool in one of those tabs are automatically mirrored to the
other instances of the tool in Capture One Pro.
The two first layer types are for image adjustments, and you can cre-
ate up to 16 different layers. You can either choose a New Empty Layer,
where the mask is blank, or a New Filled Layer, where the mask is pre-
filled. If you choose the first option, you will need to draw something on
the mask before any image adjustment on that layer becomes visible.
You also have the option to choose a New Clone Layer or a New Heal
Layer if you need to remove some distracting elements in the image. We
will explore how the clone and heal layers work later in this chapter.
If you just click once on the + (plus) icon, a New Empty Layer is created
by default.
You can also create a layer automatically if you start drawing a mask with
the Draw Mask or the Gradient Mask. Those can either be selected from
the bottom of the Layers tool or from the Cursor Toolbar.
Note that you can use the keyboard shortcuts B for Draw Mask (B =
Brush) and G for Gradient Mask. If you want to deselect either of the
cursor mask tools at any time, just hit H on the keyboard to return to the
Pan cursor tool. This way you won’t accidentally change the mask.
Renaming a Layer
You can rename a layer by either hitting Enter or double-click on it and
then type in the desired name. This can help to keep things organized. It
is also possible to toggle the visibility of the layer by clicking the check-
mark next to it.
Creating a mask
As mentioned earlier, you can either create a new layer with an empty
mask (New Empty Layer) or a prefilled mask (New Filled Layer). If you
choose the first option, you will have to draw on the mask before any im-
age adjustment on that layer becomes visible. This is the default behav-
ior in Capture One Pro and is the opposite of adjustment layers in Photo-
shop where the mask comes prefilled, and the whole image is affected
by default.
Select the Draw Mask as explained earli-
er and start brushing on the image in the
viewer. You can adjust the Size, Hardness
(or feather), Opacity and Flow by either
right-clicking on the image in the View-
er or clicking on the Cursor tool Settings
icon at the bottom of the Layers tool.
The Size and Hardness sliders should be self-explanatory, and you will
be able to see any changes reflected on the brush as an example as you
drag them.
The inner part of the brush circle will apply a full amount, while the effect
will gradually taper off to the outer part based on the chosen Hardness
amount.
Tip: You can use the keyboard shortcuts ] and [ to change the brush size
and the shortcuts Shift + ] and Shift + [ to change the hardness on the fly.
The Opacity slider controls how strong the effect of the adjustment tools
will be applied to the image. A value of 100 is equal to a full, 100 percent
strength. Using a low value like 5 or 10 is a good way to gradually built
the effect of an adjustment onto the image. Each new stroke with the
brush will, in this case, add another 5 or 10 percent on top of the mask
that you have already drawn.
The Flow slider needs a bit more explanation. It allows you to control
how many strokes it will take before you reach the maximum amount set
with the Opacity slider. The Flow value is a percentage, so if it is set to
10%, it will take ten strokes before the selected Opacity amount is ful-
ly reached. The combination of a 30% Opacity and 15% Flow is a great
way to gradually build up the effect of the mask and thus the selected
image adjustment.
Note that this only works if your brushstrokes are contiguous. Once
you start a new series of brushstrokes on the same area, the maximum
Opacity will in effect be the double. You should also be aware that a low
Flow amount can create a stepped effect if you use a high Hardness
amount setting for the brush; it clearly works best with a very low Hard-
ness value.
Showing and hiding the mask
You can toggle the visibility of the mask on and off by clicking on the
mask option icon and choosing between Always Display Mask and Nev-
er Display Mask or by using the keyboard shortcut M to toggle it on and
off while the brush tool is selected.
The mask will be displayed as a red transparent overlay over the image
in the Viewer to make it easy to see what part your mask is covering.
Note that if you instead select the Only Display Mask When Drawing
option, the mask will only be visible while you use the Mask tools. Once
you stop drawing, the mask will be hidden.
The white areas are where the image adjustments in the selected layer
will have full effect, while the black areas will have no effect. Note that
the grey areas will have different degrees of coverage.
The greyscale mask is a superb feature when you need to inspect your
mask for flaws and correct them easily. You can obviously paint directly
on the greyscale mask, just remember that you need to use the Erase
Mask (explained below) if you want to paint a “black” color on the mask
in order to remove the coverage on a particular area.
Once done, select Display Greyscale Mask or use the keyboard shortcut
Alt + M again to turn it off.
Erasing a part of the mask
You can delete a part of the drawn mask with the Erase Mask, which is
selected from the bottom of the Layers tool or by using the keyboard
shortcut E.
A small – (minus) will appear in the center of the brush to indicate that
you are now in Erase mode. You can change the Size, Hardness, Opac-
ity, and Flow of the Erase brush just like the normal brush by right-click-
ing on the image in the Viewer.
Tip: If you want the mask to cover almost the entire image, it is faster to
combine the Erase Mask with the Invert Mask option instead of painting
a lot with the Draw Mask. Here is how you do it; right-click on the layer
and select Invert Mask.
Now the mask will cover the entire image, and you can quickly use the
Erase Mask to remove the small part you don’t want to include.
If you are using a graphics tablet like a Wacom, Capture One Pro can
detect the pen pressure and change the brush size accordingly if you
select the Use Pen Pressure option. Note that it is the Size of the brush,
not the Opacity, that is being adjusted by the amount of pen pressure.
If you select Link Brush and Eraser Settings, Capture One Pro will make
sure that both the Draw Mask and Erase Mask are using the same val-
ues and options. Remember that you can quickly change between the
two by using their keyboard shortcuts B and E.
Using the Auto Mask feature
Capture One Pro has a nice brush feature called Auto Mask that can de-
tect edges and create an automatic mask selection. This is very handy
when you want to isolate one part of the image from another, like a
building from the sky or a model or product from the background. You
need to select the Auto Mask option first, and it is recommended to set
Hardness to 100.
Note how the Auto Mask brush cursor has an inner circle with a cross
in the middle. Everything within this circle will be sampled and included
in the automatically created mask, so it is important that it doesn’t touch
anything that you don’t want to be masked. The outer circle controls the
area where the mask will be auto-generated.
The Auto Mask feature works best with clearly defined edges that are in
focus, and you will get better results by using a number of smaller brush-
strokes instead of a single, long one. Note that the Auto Mask brush
will paint the mask temporarily over the full brush size area while you
draw with it, then the mask will snap to the edges when you release the
mouse button. This is normal behavior.
Tips: There is a couple of tricks that can increase your chances of suc-
cess with the Auto Mask feature. You should always try to paint on the
part in the image which is the most uniform and clearly defined. This
might be the opposite of the subject you wanted to mask, and if that
is the case, use Auto Mask on that part instead of on the main subject,
then invert the mask after the fact. This is done by right-clicking on the
layer and choosing Invert Mask.
You should also note that the Auto Mask feature works nicely with the
Erase Mask. Sometimes you will find that it actually does a better job
of detecting the edges correctly when you use it to remove an unwant-
ed area of the current mask. This means that the most efficient work-
flow would be to paint a broad, rough mask with the normal Draw Mask
brush without the Auto Mask feature enabled. Then use the Erase Mask
with the Auto Mask feature selected to detect and select the edges au-
tomatically.
Note that you can also draw straight lines between points on the mask
by holding Shift down while you click. Using these two shortcuts in com-
bination makes it very fast to mask a subject with straight lines, like a
building.
Feathering a mask
When you are working on a complex mask, the edges might end up
being too hard and leave harsh look where the transitions should be
smooth. This can easily be fixed by the Feather Mask feature. Right-click
on the desired layer and choose Feather Mask…
You will now get a dialog box where you can dial in the amount of feath-
ering with the Radius slider. The value is presented in pixels, and the
max goes all the way up to a radius of 100 pixels.
You can preview the effect on the mask by choosing the Display Mask
option. When you’re happy with the result, hit Apply.
Note that once you have softened the edges of the mask, you cannot go
back and readjust the feather to a lower amount later on. You can always
add more softening effect, but you cannot remove the feathering unless
you choose Edit > Undo Feather Mask.
Feather Mask is extremely useful if you have used the Create Masked
Layer from Selection option explained later on in this chapter. The mask
from that operation might not always make perfect transitions, so adding
a touch of feathering, say at 0,5 to 1,5 pixels, is often very helpful.
Note that if you have selected the Display Greyscale Mask (explained
earlier in this chapter), you will have to option to show the mask instead
of the image.
This can be very handy when you need to judge how much softening is
required. It gets even better if you remember to zoom the view into 100
percent before selecting the Feather Mask feature because this combi-
nation makes it really easy to hit the perfect amount of smoothing.
Using Refine Mask to improve the mask
It can be very difficult (and time-consuming) to select finer details like for
example hair or fur against the background when working on a mask.
Luckily, the Refine Mask feature can be a super helpful to solve this is-
sue as its edge-detecting technology will analyze the image content
and help to select the intricate details of the subject. You need to mask
the subject first, then right-click on the desired layer and choose Refine
Mask…
You will now get a dialog box where the Radius amount will tell Capture
One Pro how broad a range in pixels the feature should analyze and in-
clude details from.
Refine Mask works the best when the edge between the subject and the
background have fairly high contrast, so black hair against a bright back-
ground will work great, whereas blond hair against white will not. Refine
Mask is a contrast-detecting technology, so keep that in mind.
Because if this, it is also an excellent tool to improve the mask when you
have used the Auto Mask brush feature to select, for example, a build-
ing, the horizon or a dark or white bird against a clear, blue sky.
You should also note that the Refine Mask will vary the opacity of the af-
fected mask. This will ensure that any transitions look more natural, but
you might need to tweak the mask as certain areas of the adjusted mask
will no longer have a 100 percent coverage (not pure white anymore).
Just something to keep in mind.
This is much faster than having to tweak all the different adjustments
used in the layer. Note how each Layer has its individual Opacity
amount, giving you a nice way to mix the strength of each one after the
fact.
You can then click-right on the layer again and choose Invert Mask, and
you will now have a mask that is a perfect opposite of the copied mask
from the other layer. The copied mask can obviously be tweaked to taste
with the Draw Mask or Erase Mask tools.
Reposition a mask after the fact
Most don’t know about it, but you can actually reposition a mask. Just
hold Command (Ctrl on Windows) and drag in the Viewer to reposition
the mask. Note that either the Draw Mask, Erase Mask or Gradient Mask
needs to be selected first.
You can also click on the mask drop-down menu and select Show Selec-
tion Points. An orange dot will now appear over the mask. Click on that
to drag the mask to a new place.
The ability to move a mask is particularly useful if you have copied a set
of layers from one image to another. As a cool feature, the associated
masks will be copied too, and if the covered subject has moved a bit,
you will be able to reuse the mask by dragging it to the new location on
the new image. You might need to tweak the mask, but it should still be
way faster than having to redo the mask from scratch.
Note that you can also reposition a gradient mask, but it is normally not
very useful as it will often create gaps on one or two sides of the mask
when it is moved.
Another thing to remember is that you can invert the mask. If you want
to affect almost the entire image besides a subject with a certain color,
then select that color, create an auto-mask of it and invert the mask. Fast
and efficient.
Repair or clone details
The Layers tool allows you to clone in detail or remove distracting part
as well as heal image areas such as a blemish on skin tones. This is
done with so-called repair layers that you create by clicking on the +
(plus) icon and choosing the desired type.
The difference between to the two types of layers is that a Clone Lay-
er will just clone the details without altering them while a Heal Layer will
try to blend in the details from the surrounding area in order for the re-
pair to look more natural. Beyond that, the Clone Layer and Heal Layer
work the same, and you can convert one type into another after the fact
by right-clicking on the layer and choosing the alternative method. This
gives you the freedom to select the one that works best.
Once you have created a repair layer, select the Draw Mask cursor tool
(B) and paint over the area in the image that you either want to heal or
clone detail to. Capture One Pro will now automatically insert a point
where the detail is sourced from, and an arrow will appear, pointing from
the white source circle to the orange target circle (see next page):
The sample area might not be the best suited, so just drag the white
source circle to a new area that contains the most suitable detail. Note
how the target area will update and reflect the new source area if you
hold and wait a second. You can also hold down the Alt key and click on
the image to select the source area.
Note how it is also possible to drag and move the target circle and that
you can add to the target area coverage by painting with the Draw Mask
or remove parts with the Erase Mask. If you tap M to show the mask,
Capture One Pro will not only show the masked area but also the origi-
nal detail, making it much easier to tweak the mask coverage if need be.
You need to be aware that each repair layer can only contain one source
area, so if you need to sample detail from more than one position, you
will need to create a new repair layer for each one. You can, however,
paint in several target points based on the same source area. This is
useful if you need to remove for example multiple blemishes from facial
skin where one smooth source area on the face will work great.
If you need to remove a lot of minor spots or blemishes, it might be bet-
ter to use the global Spot Removal tool (covered in an earlier chapter)
with the Type set to Spot. This will give you faster performance. Howev-
er, the advantage of the local repair layers is that you can remove an ir-
regular area whereas the Spot Removal tool only works with a round tar-
get.
Making a local image adjustment
Once you have created a Layer and a Mask, you simply use the Lay-
er-aware tools as normal to do localized image adjustments. Tips on
how to take advantage of local image editing have been explored in
each chapter of the tools that are available to work in conjunction with
layers and masks, so please refer to the Layer section of those tools.
To recap, the image editing tools that can be used on a Layer are:
• White Balance
• Exposure
• High Dynamic Range
• Levels
• Curve
• Sharpening
• Clarity
• Noise Reduction
• Moire
• Color Editor
• Color Balance
• Purple Fringing
When you are working with a tool on a Layer, a small brush icon next to
the tool name will be displayed and indicate that you are currently doing
adjustments on a layer. Once you select the background again, it disap-
pears, and you are working with the global tool again.
Note that Presets only contain the adjustments for a specific tool, like
the Curve tool. Styles, on the other hand, contains all the adjustments
from the different tools. You can think of Styles as a collection of Pre-
sets.
Be aware that not all tools can be used on a Layer as a local adjustment,
like for example the Black & White tool. If that is the case, any Presets
or Styles based on that tool will just not be available to choose from the
submenu.
If you select a Style that contains Presets from tools, where some are
supported by Layers and others are not, you get a warning. Capture One
Pro will notify you about which adjustments that cannot be applied to
the layer.
Just click Apply Partially to continue. You can select the Do not show
this message again to bypass this warning once you feel more comfort-
able with applying Styles to Layers.
Tip: If you’re not sure which kind of adjustments that are used in a spe-
cific Style, hover the mouse over it, and a tooltip will show you which
settings are in use.
You will now be greeted by a dialog box, where you can choose all the
adjustments that you want to include as your Style.
Note that the adjustments are only cop-
ied from the specific layer that you have
selected, not from all the layers in use
on the image. Remember to deselect
any adjustments that you don’t want to
be part of the Style even if you have not
changed those adjustments from their
default value. For example, if the Ex-
posure slider is set at 0 (zero), and you
select Exposure as part of your Style,
the Exposure slider will also be set to 0
when you apply the Style to a new im-
age, potentially overwriting any adjust-
ments you have made prior. Once you
are ready, Click Save, give the Style a
name and saved it.
It is important to point out that the mask
associated with the layer is not being
saved as a part of the Style. If you want
to copy both the adjustments and the
mask to other images, you need to use
the Copy and reuse an adjustment fea-
ture mentioned earlier in this chapter.
Copying edits with Adjustments Clipboard
Capture One Pro has a very powerful feature that can copy any image
adjustments from one photo to multiple others, potentially saving you
tons of time. You can both copy and reuse adjustments for a single tool
at a time or for all the tools used on an image.
We will explore both options in this chapter, and you should note that
you can always pick and choose exactly which image adjustments you
want to copy from one image to the others. If you just want to copy
White Balance, Exposure, and Keywords, for example, you can easily do
just that and make sure that all the other edits are not overwritten on the
target images. Since Capture One Pro uses a non-destructive workflow,
you can always readjust any adjustment afterward.
Note that you can choose to either copy adjustments directly to a num-
ber of selected image or save the adjustments and apply them ad hoc
on an image by image basis. You can save adjustments as Presets or
Styles which will be covered in a later chapter.
Once you have selected the desired adjustments, you can either click on
Copy or Apply.
Apply will copy the adjustments over to the other selected images and
apply them. Note that you do not need to have the Edit All Selected
Variants command enabled in the Edit menu for this to work.
If you click on Copy instead, the adjustments are copied over the glob-
al Adjustments Clipboard tool but are not applied to the other selected
images. This provides an alternative workflow where you can apply the
selected adjustments ad hoc to different image as you go through them.
This can be done by going to the main menu and selecting Adjustments
> Apply Adjustments.
Note that you can speed the process up and bypass the Adjustments
Clipboard dialog. If you hold Shift down and click on the Copy Adjust-
ment icon, the adjustments will be copied and applied to the other im-
ages immediately. If you instead hold down option and click on the icon,
the adjustments will be copied to the global Adjustments Clipboard tool.
but are not applied to the other selected images. Pay attention to the
file name near the top of the tool. This is the image where all the adjust-
ments are currently being copied from, and you can now apply those ad
hoc to the different images as you select them. This can be done by go-
ing to the main menu and selecting Adjustments > Apply Adjustments.
It will probably make more sense to use the Styles and Presets tool cov-
ered in a later chapter to apply those, but doing it via the Adjustments
Clipboard tool has one neat benefit. Once you have copied the Style
or Preset to the clipboard, you can use keyboard shortcuts to apply the
copied Style or Preset in question.
Note that you can also save a certain combination of adjustments from
the options drop-down menu by selecting Save As Style…. You can do
this from the Styles and Presets tool too, so this is just a convenient
shortcut.
Work faster with shortcuts and cursor tools
There is a number of ways to speed up the work when are copying and
applying adjustments. You can go to the Adjustments menu and choose
either Copy Adjustments or Apply Adjustments or use their correspond-
ing keyboard shortcuts Shift + command + C and Shift + command + V
(Ctrl + Shift + C or V on Windows). Note that you can change these key-
board shortcuts if they don’t suit you.
You can also use the Copy Adjustment and Apply Adjustment icons on
the main Toolbar.
Remember to enable the Edit All Selected Variants command (the icon
is orange when active) if you want to apply the adjustment to multiple
selected images. If you hover the mouse over the Apply icon, the Edit All
Selected Variants icon will show how many images you have selected.
Another very useful way to apply adjustments on the fly is with the Copy
Adjustments and Apply Adjustments cursor tools in the Cursor Toolbar.
These are very cool because you can just click away on images in the
Browser to apply a specific combination of adjustments without having
to select them first and then use a keyboard shortcut. This can be partic-
ularly useful if you want to apply a certain metadata like a keyword of a
person when reviewing a lot of images from an event in the Browser.
The trick with using the Apply Adjustments Cursor can greatly speed up
the work with applying any adjustment or metadata to a noncontiguous
group of images when viewed in the Browser. Just make sure that you
are copying the right adjustments by checking the Adjustments Clip-
board tool. As already mentioned, keep an eye on the file name at the
top of the tool to ensure you are indeed copying from the right image.
You can select the Copy Adjustments and Apply Adjustments cursor
tools with the keyboard shortcut A and switch between them with Shift +
A.
Saving and reusing adjustments
with Styles and Presets
Styles and Presets in Capture One Pro is a great way to save specific
adjustments which can then be reused later with a single mouse click. A
Preset only contain the adjustments for a specific tool, so as an example,
the Exposure tool and the Curve tool will save their own separate sets of
Presets. Styles, on the other hand, contains all the adjustments from the
different tools. You can think of Styles as a collection of Presets.
Remember that Capture One Pro is using a non-destructive workflow
which means that you can always tweak any adjustment that has been
applied with a Preset or Style. As we will explore later in this chapter, you
can also combine several Styles and/or Presets with the Stack Styles
feature, so keep in mind that you’re not constrained to using only one
Preset or Style set at a time.
Applying Styles and Presets
The Styles and Presets tool in the
Adjustments Tool Tab gives a nice
overview of all the available Styles
and Presets. They are organized in
four groups; by Styles and Presets
respectively, and by the built-in that
ships with Capture One Pro and
those you have created and saved
yourself. Note that all the Presets are
organized by tool.
You open and close a group by clicking on the arrow in front of its name
or by double-clicking on the group name. A very handy keyboard short-
cut is that a whole group can be expanded or collapsed at once by hold-
ing Alt down while clicking on a group name.
Note that if you want to apply a Style or Preset to more than one image,
you need to make sure the Edit All Selected Variants command is en-
abled in the Edit menu or making sure that the corresponding icon in the
main Toolbar is active with an orange color.
Once it is enabled, the selected Styles and presets will be added on top
of the others as noted in the list at the top of the Styles and Presets tool.
The order in the list is very important; if two Styles or Presets are trying
to apply the same adjustment, like adding some Saturation. If there is
a conflict, the top listed Style or Preset takes precedence, and Capture
One Pro will add (Overridden) to the name of the Style or Preset where
an adjustment is overwritten (see next page):
This ensures that you get a predict-
able outcome when applying con-
flicting adjustments, so just keep
in mind what order you apply the
Styles and Presets in. Also, remem-
ber that you can always readjust
anything in Capture One Pro, so no
harm is ever done.
Be aware that not all tools can be used on a Layer as a local adjustment,
like for example the Black & White tool. If that is the case, any Presets or
Styles based on that tool will simply not be available to choose from the
submenu.
If you select a Style that contains Presets from tools, where only some
are supported by Layers, you will get a warning. Capture One Pro will
notify you about which adjustments that cannot be applied to the layer.
If you instead want to delete the Style or Preset from Capture One Pro,
then right-click on it under User Styles or User Presets and choose De-
lete. Note that you cannot delete the Built-In Styles and Presets.
You also have the option to delete a User Preset from the Preset drop-
down menu in each tool by choosing Delete User Preset…
Adding Presets during import can also be a very useful way to add all
the basic metadata like copyright and your contact information from the
start. Just remember to create a Metadata Preset with the required infor-
mation first from the Metadata tool (covered in an earlier chapter).
Applying Styles and Presets during tethered shooting
Just like you can add a Style or Preset during image import, you can also
add those when shooting tethered. These are selected from the Next
Capture Adjustments tool. Click on the Styles drop-down menu and
choose which Styles or Presets you want to apply. Remember to enable
Stack Styles if you want to apply more than one.
Adding a Styles and Presets menu to the Toolbar
If find yourself adding Styles and Presets all the time, you can speed up
your workflow by adding a Styles and Presets menu to the Toolbar.
If you want to duplicate and tweak an existing recipe instead, then select
it, click on the options icon and chose Duplicate Recipe from the drop-
down menu.
You can delete a recipe by selecting it and clicking on the - (minus) icon.
You can delete the default built-in recipes, and if you want to recreate
those, just select it from the Add Recipe submenu in the drop-down
menu.
Note that you can select a color depth of 8 bit or 16 bit if you choose
TIFF or PSD as the file format. A 16-bit file will be twice the size, but will
also contain more image data and is highly recommended if you are go-
ing to do further edits on the image file outside Capture One Pro in for
example Photoshop.
The JPEG QuickProof reuses the preview file that Capture One Pro has
already generated, and it is therefore the fastest way to process and
export an image. JPEG XR and JPEG 2000 can save the image in high-
er quality than normal JPEG, but the files are larger and not all external
software can read those formats.
Depending on the selected file type, you might get access to other op-
tions that are relevant to that file format. This is the case with TIFF and
JPEG.
TIFF gives you the option to compress the file during export to save
size. Both LZW and ZIP are so-called lossless compression methods, so
no data is lost using them. ZIP is a bit more effective regarding file size,
but will also take much longer processing time, so LZW is recommend-
ed when exporting to 8-bit. Note, however, that you can only use ZIP as
compression if you are outputting TIFF in 16-bit.
A high level of JPEG compression will introduce artifacts and lower im-
age quality, but luckily Capture One Pro has a great feature called Show
Recipe Proofing to help you obtain the perfect balance between quality
and file size.
Show Recipe Proofing will show you exactly how the final image will
look once it has been exported out of Capture One Pro with regards to
file format, jpeg compression, final pixels dimensions and color space.
You can enable the feature by going to the main menu and selecting
View > Show Recipe Proofing or clicking on the googles icon on Tool-
bar.
You can also use the keyboard shortcut Shift + command + backslash.
The image will now be resized to its output dimensions, and a Proofing
label will be displayed over it in the viewer. If you zoom into 100%, you
can perfect the JPEG compression and sharpening and see exactly what
the image will look like when it is processed and exported.
Note that Show Recipe Proofing will also reflect the selected color
space and other settings in the Process Recipe tool like output sharpen-
ing and applied watermarks.
In most cases, you should choose the sRGB Color Space Profile if the
file is indented to be viewed on a screen. There are exceptions to this
rule, but unless you know that the images will only be viewed on a
high-quality screen with a wider color gamut than sRGB, stay with sRGB.
Otherwise the color might look off.
For print, you would normally choose the Adobe RGB profile which can
reproduce a wider range of colors than sRGB, particularly in the green
hues. Note that if you were printing directly from Capture One Pro, you
should use an ICC profile that is optimized for the printer and paper in
question, but this chapter only focusses on exporting images.
The ProPhoto color space contains a larger range of color hues than
Adobe RGB and is the best solution if you want to preserve pretty much
all the original colors from a raw file and edit the image further in for ex-
ample Photoshop. You should, however, only use the ProPhoto color
space in conjunction with a 16-bit TIFF or PSD file, as 8-bit might limit
the available amount of subtle tones and thus be counterproductive in
regards to image quality.
The Crop tool will now respect the aspect ratio and dimensions in size,
and you can make either a landscape and portrait ratio crop that be
saved out as a 60 x 40 cm or 40 x 60 cm, depending on your need.
The Long Edge option in the Scale drop-down menu is an excellent fea-
ture that will let you define exactly how wide or tall an image should be
in pixels, inches, mm or cm. The aspect ratio of the crop will be respect-
ed, so if you have specified that the longest side of the image should al-
ways be 2000 pixels, the shorter side will be adjusted accordingly.
This can be very convenient when you need to match a specific size tar-
get in only one dimension, for example for a web banner.
Short Edge is similar to Long Edge; the only difference is that you here
specify exactly how wide or tall the short side of the image should be in
pixels, inches, mm or cm.
Never Upscale is a feature that you can turn on and off. It makes sure
that the image is never scaled up beyond 100%, even if the value in Res-
olution and the dimensions entered in Scale would demand it if they
were meet. If Never Upscale is en-
abled, it will be added to the name in
the Scale drop-down menu, and you
will notice that the Scale data in the
Process Summary tool will never go
above 100%.
You can for example create a Process Recipe for a very specific task like
focus stacking or HDR where you want the images to be opened auto-
matically in the specialized software like Helicon Focus or HDR Efex Pro
2.
Some of the options in the File tab might be a bit confusing because
they work in conjunction with the Output Location tool and the Output
Naming tool, but this will be explained as we go through it.
This is a great choice if you want to be sure that the images are always
store in a specific folder when you used the selected Process Recipe.
Once you have select the Root Folder location, you can let Capture One
Pro create subfolders within the root folder to keep things organized.
This is done in the Sub Folder field.
Note that Capture One Pro can use the so-called Tokens to create and
name the subfolders automatically based on metadata from the files.
The use of Tokens was explained in full detail in an earlier chapter. You
can, for example, use the date of capture, the rating, the camera seri-
al number or the collection name to create and name the subfolders.
Click on the tree-dotted icon to get access to this feature. In the exam-
ple above, subfolders are created automatically based on image capture
date and then divided into further subfolders based on rating.
Be aware that the Sub Folder option will work regardless of whether the
default Root Folder is set to Output Location – and thus are controlled
by the Output Location tool – or you have chosen a specific folder.
The Output Location tool and Output Naming tool will be covered in full
detail in next chapter of this eBook.
With this selected, Capture One Pro will embed the crop outline as a
Photoshop Path in the exported PSD file. The crop outline can then be
found in the Path panel in Photoshop where it is called Crop (Capture
One). You can load it by clicking on it.
Note that this feature is only available if you have selected PSD as the
file format from the Basic tab.
The first step is called Capture Sharpening and is handled by the Sharp-
ening tool, while the second step called Create Sharpening is typically
applied with the Clarity and Structure sliders in the Clarity tool and add-
ed to specific areas of the image with Layers.
The third and final step in the workflow is called Output Sharpening and
is handled by the Process Recipe tool where you can apply extra sharp-
ening that is optimized for either print or screen. The Output Sharpen-
ing is detached from the rest of the sharpening process so that you can
easily print and share the same image in the different sizes and formats
without having to redo the sharpening for each new output media.
Capture One Pro handles Output Sharpening for a screen and print dif-
ferently, and you choose the desired target media from the Sharpening
drop-down menu in the Adjustment tab of the Process Recipe tool.
If you have selected Output Sharpening for Screen, you will get the
options to adjust the added sharpening with the Amount, Radius and
Threshold sliders that are also present in the Sharpening tool. You can
refer back to the chapter to get them explained in detail.
The image will now be resized to its output dimensions, and a Proofing
label will be displayed over it in the viewer. If you zoom into 100%, you
can perfect the sharpening (and JPEG compression) and see exactly
what the image will look like once it is processed and exported.
If you select Output Sharpening for Print, the options are a bit differ-
ent. You still get to adjust Amount and Threshold, but Capture One Pro
will help determine the best sharpening based on the distance from the
viewer to the printed image.
You can also use the Show Recipe Proofing feature to check the level
of sharpening, but this should always be reviewed on the final print with
the target viewing distance in mind.
If you choose the last option, Capture One Pro will only include the key-
words from the image that are also found in the selected keywords li-
brary. This can be a handy way to safeguard which keywords you will
grant permission to be exported.
The All Other Metadata option is all the IPTC metadata that you have
entered with the Metadata tool like a Headline and Description, City
and Location or your IPTC Contact information.
You can always deselect the option and re-export the images later to
output them without the Annotations, if needed.
However, it makes much more sense to export the Annotations as a
separate layer on the image file for two reasons: First, you can always
toggle the layer on and off in Photoshop as needed. Secondly, the notes
will be added non-destructively without affecting the image data in the
base layer, which is exactly what you want when further image adjust-
ments are needed. In order to export the Annotations as a separate lay-
er, you need to save the file in the PSD format. Then choose the Annota-
tions (as a Layer) option under Workflow.
If you instead wish to export the overlay as a separate layer, you need
to save the file in the PSD format. Then choose the Overlay (as a Layer)
option under Workflow.
The overlay will then be added as a separate layer called “Overlay (Cap-
ture One)” in the PSD file (see next page):
Remember that all the options in the Metadata tab are saved as a part
of the selected Process Recipe. This makes it easy to remove a lot of
metadata from the images that you want to show online while preserving
most for those you share with a client or friend, for example.
Once it is loaded, you can adjust Opacity and Scale and drag it to the
right position in the Viewer with the Move Watermark hand cursor tool.
If you are not sure of the location, you can click on the grey arrow at
the end, and Capture One Pro will open the target folder. You can also
check the file path in the Sample Path field.
To keep all the files organized after output, you should definitely consid-
er adding subfolders to separate the images into different locations. This
is best done by adding the powerful Tokens in the Sub Folder field. To-
kens were covered in an earlier chapter and enable Capture One Pro to
automatically create and name subfolders based on metadata retrieved
from the files like Rating, Color Tag, IPTC metadata, image dates, collec-
tions and a host of other information. The beauty of the Token system is
that Capture One Pro will not only create and name several subfolders
automatically, the images are also saved into the corresponding subfold-
er, basically keeping things organized outside Capture One Pro.
You get access to the full list of available Tokens by clicking on the
3-dotted box at the end of the Sub Folder field.
A dialog box now appears will the list of Tokens. To insert them, you can
either drag them into the Format field or double-click on them. See the
Tokens chapter for tips on which of the Tokens that could be the most
useful for your scenario.
The setup is now transferred to the Sub Folder field in the Output Loca-
tion tool (see next page):
In this example, we have created a folder hierarchy with three subfold-
ers. At the top, a folder is created based on the selected collection in
the Library tool, here an Album called “Shot1”. When you select another
collection in the Library tool, another folder will automatically be created.
Within these folders, different subfolders will be created and named af-
ter the used Recipe Format, like TIFF and JPEG, and finally, within each
of those folders, a number of subfolders are created after the used star
rating. You can check an example of the generated subfolders in the
Sample Path field.
Note that you can also add Tokens directly in Sub Folder field by start
typing the name of the Token and then selecting it from the drop-down
list that appears. This will speed things up for the power user.
It is not necessary to use Tokens to create subfolders, you can just enter
plain text to create them, but you will miss out on the powerful feature of
having the exported images saved in different folders based on metada-
ta. In a sense, Tokens allows you to transfer the organization of the im-
ages done inside Capture One Pro to the outside world. This can be ex-
tremely valuable when you need to share the images with other people,
like an art director or a client for review.
Saving and reusing a Folder Preset
If setting up a string of Tokens might seem a bit tiresome, remember that
you can save and reuse your setup as a Preset. Just click on the Preset
drop-down menu and choose Save User Preset…, and give it a name.
You can now quickly reuse it the next time by selecting it from the Preset
drop-down menu.
Note on subfolders and Process Recipe
Be aware that if you have added any subfolders as a part of your Pro-
cess Recipe, those will be added first at the top of the folder hierarchy.
If Capture One Pro creates unwanted subfolders, always check the Sub
Folder field in the File tab of the Process Recipe tool.
Renaming files during export
Capture One Pro has an excellent feature for renaming files during ex-
port with the Output Naming tool because you can use the so-called To-
kens to automate the creation of names.
By default, the images will retain their file name during export since the
Image Name Token is inserted in the Format field. If you delete every-
thing in this field, the images will be called “EmptyName,” “EmptyName
1” and so forth, which is not very useful. In other words, something has to
be present in the Format field, and Tokens are your best friend. You get
access to the full list of available Tokens by clicking on the 3-dotted box
at the end of the Format field.
A dialog box now appears will the list of Tokens. In order to insert them,
you can either drag them into the Format field or double-click on them.
See the Tokens chapter for tips on which of the Tokens that could be the
most useful for your scenario.
In the example above, we have used three Tokens to rename all the files
automatically. They will all start will the Job Name, which is entered in
the Job name field below. Then the star rating for each image is added
to the name, and finally, a counter is added at the end to make sure no
files have the same name. Note the small arrow on the 3 Digit Counter
Token. If you click on that, you can change the number of digits in the
counter from 1 to 6. You can see an example of the file name in the Sam-
ple field.
Note that you can add Tokens directly in Format field by start typing the
name of the Token and then selecting it from the list that appears.
If you need to reset the counter back to zero, just click on the options
icon and chose Reset Output Counter from the drop-down menu.
Be wawre that you can also use the Set Output Counter… command to
start at a specific value, like 100, or change the increment from the de-
fault of 1 to 2 or 5 if need be with Set Output Counter Increment…. If you
want to reset the naming format back to default, select Reset Tool. The
tool will then revert to use the file name during export.
Remember that you can save and reuse your Token naming setup as a
Preset. Just click on the Preset drop-down menu and choose Save User
Preset… and give it a name (see next page):
You can now reuse it next time by selecting it from the Preset drop-down
menu. Note that the User Presets are shared with the Naming tool in the
Import Images dialog box, and that the Next Capture Naming tool has
different Built-in Presets.
Process images for export
Once you have setup your Process Recipes as well as the Output Loca-
tion and Output Naming, you are ready to process and export the imag-
es. Enable the desired formats in the Process Recipes tool and select all
the images that you want to export, then click on Process in the Process
Summary tool or hit the keyboard shortcut command + D (Ctrl + D on
Windows).
Note that if you have selected multiple images, but have not enabled
Edit All Selected Variants, Capture One Pro will help you out with a
warning. In most cases, you want to hit the All button.
Capture One Pro will now start to process and export all the selected im-
age in the background, and you can proceed to do another task mean-
while.
You can monitor how far Capture One Pro is in the Process task by se-
lecting the Queue tab in Batch tool (see next page):
Capture One Pro will estimate how long time the whole operation will
take, and you can hit the Stop bottom to halt the processing task tempo-
rarily. Then click on Start, when you are ready to resume the processing.
This can be very useful if you need to process a ton of images but want
to wait until you are away from the computer.
Once Capture One Pro is done with processing an image, it will disap-
pear from the Queue tab in the Batch tool and appear in the History tab.
Here you have the option to select a number of processed image and
hit Reprocess Selected if you want to redo the processing. This might be
useful if you had to readjust something on the images or found out that
the location or naming wasn’t perfect on the first go.
Exporting images directly
You do not need to go through the Process Recipes tool in order to out-
put images from Capture One Pro. Sometimes it is just easier to use the
more simple Export Images command, especially if you just need to ex-
port a few images fast.
The Export Images workflow also happens to be the recommended
way to export the original files together with the associated adjustments
saved as separate files. This makes it possible for other Capture One
Pro users to open the files and continue to work on their adjustments in
a fully non-destructive fashion.
Exporting original files
If you want to export the original files untouched rather than having them
processed with your adjustments applied, go the main menu and choose
File > Export Images > Originals…. The original files do not have to be in
a raw format; this will work with any TIFF, JPEG and PSD files that you’re
working on.
You will now get a dialog box where you can choose where to export the
images as well as rename them. Pay special attention to the Include Ad-
justments option.
If you select Include Adjustments, Capture One Pro will export your ad-
justments as a separate file together with the original image file in the
same location. When the original file is opened in Capture One Pro later
on, all of the adjustments will be loaded automatically with it and can be
readjusted as you – or another user - desire.
This is a very powerful workflow when you need other people to have
access to the image adjustments in order to edit them further. Incidental-
ly, this is the exact same setup as if you were working in a Session and
shared the Session folders with someone else. If you take a look in the
export folder, a subfolder called “CaptureOne” will be created and con-
tain both the adjustment files and preview files, exactly the same way a
Session folder is set up.
The advantage of using the Export Images > Originals instead of just
sharing your whole Session is that you can limit the exchange to a few
selected images. It is also the best way to share the original files and ad-
justments if you are working in a Catalog.
The Location tool and the Naming tool works the same way as the Out-
put Location tool and the Output Naming tool from the Output tool Tab.
They are covered in the Creating target folders and renaming files for
export chapter, so please read this for the full detail.
Note that the Naming tool has an additional option that you can access
with the Method drop-down menu. By default, you can rename the files
with Text and Tokens, but there is also the option to choose a Find and
Replace method. This will let you replace a particular text string with an-
other, like changing “Model1” with “Sophia.”
A dialog box will appear with the same features and options if you had
chosen to work from the Output Tool Tab instead.
The Recipe tool works exactly the same way as the Process Recipe tool
covered in the Working with the Process Recipes tool section. Please
read this for the full detail.
Likewise, the Location tool and the Naming tool works the same way as
the Output Location tool and the Output Naming tool from the Output
Tool Tab. They are covered in the Creating target folders and renaming
files for export chapter, so please read these for the full detail.
Don’t get confused by the Variant naming. When you click on the Export
Variant button, Capture One Pro will export a normal image in the file
type you have specified in the Format drop-down menu. This works the
same way as Photoshop would.
You now get a dialog box where you choose the file Format, ICC Profile
and the Resolution or dimensions of the exported file.
Selecting the file format
You can either choose JPEG, Tiff or PSD from the Format drop-down
menu. If you choose JPEG, you can adjust the level of Quality, and it is
highly recommended to set this to 100% if you are going to do further
image adjustments in the external application.
With TIFF, you can choose whether to save the file in 8 bit or 16 bit. It is
recommended to use 16-bit if you are going to make substantial image
adjustments to exposure, contrast or colors in the external application.
You can also choose to compress the file to save space with ZIP from
the Options drop-down menu, or just keep it as Uncompressed. ZIP
takes a bit longer to save but doesn’t affect image quality.
The PSD format is a great choice if you’re just going to edit the file in
Photoshop. Here you also have the option to save the file in 8 bit or 16
bit. Again, 16-bit is recommended, if you are going to make substantial
image adjustments to exposure, contrast or colors in the external appli-
cation.
In most cases, you should only choose the sRGB Color Space Profile if
the file is indented to be viewed on the web. Since you are going to edit
the file further, it is recommended to choose either Adobe RGB or Pro-
Photo and then convert to sRGB at the end if needed.
For print, you would normally choose the Adobe RGB profile which can
reproduce a wider range of colors than sRGB, particularly in the green
hues. Note that if you were printing directly from Capture One Pro, you
should use an ICC profile that is optimized for the printer and paper in
question, but this chapter only focusses on exporting an image for fur-
ther edits in another application.
The ProPhoto color space contains a larger range of color hues than
Adobe RGB and is the best solution if you want to preserve pretty much
all the original colors from a raw file and edit the image further in for ex-
ample Photoshop. You should, however, only use the ProPhoto color
space in conjunction with a 16-bit TIFF or PSD file, as 8-bit might limit
the available amount of subtle tones and thus be counterproductive in
regard to image quality.
Adjusting output resolution
You can set the resolution in either pixels per inch, pixels per mm or pix-
els per cm from the Resolution drop-down menu and enter the needed
resolution in the field (see next page):
Note that this doesn’t affect the overall image resolution in pixels if you
are not resizing the image with the Scale drop-down menu. The val-
ue will affect the image size in pixels, however, if you choose to set the
width or the height of the output image in inches, mm or cm under the
Scale options.
If the desired application is not on the list, select Other…. and browse to
it on your computer, select it and click Open.
Adding output sharpening
You have the option to add Output Sharpening for either screen or print.
This is done from the Sharpening drop-down menu in the Adjustments
tab.
No Output Sharpening means that all the sharpening that you have
done in Capture One Pro will be applying, but no specialized output
sharpening will be added.
The Disable All option means that none of the sharpening done in Cap-
ture One Pro will be applied at all to the original file. This can be a great
option if you have a specialized sharpening workflow in the external ap-
plication or just want the file to be untouched regarding sharpening be-
fore a major image editing session.
Note that you can also use the Crop drop-down menu to disregard any
crop you have made to the file by choosing the Ignore Crop or Crop to
Path (PSD) options. Another nice option if you want the file to be export-
ed in pristine condition.
Adding Metadata and Annotations
The Metadata tab lets you control what kind of metadata should be in-
cluded in the exported image. You can choose whether to include the
Keywords in the exported file and have to option to either select All or
only those that appear in a specific keywords library by selecting it in the
From selected keyword libraries drop-down menu.
Just like with Annotations, you can either bake any Overlay into the im-
ages during export or include it on a separate layer in a PSD file format.
If you are exporting in TIFF, JPEG or PNG file formats, you will get to op-
tion to bake the overlay into the original file. This is done by choosing
the Overlay option under Workflow. If you instead wish to export the
overlay as a separate layer, you need to save the file in the PSD format.
Then choose the Overlay (as a Layer) option. The overlay will then be
added as a separate layer called “Overlay (Capture One)” in the PSD
file.
Note that the new file is automatically saved in the same location next
to the original file in Capture One Pro, making it easy to keep track of it.
This means that you do not need to import the new file.
When you save your edits in the external application, Capture One Pro
will automatically stay updated with all the changes to the image file.
This will make sure that Photoshop creates and embed a flatten version
of the image in the file so that Capture One Pro – and other applications
– can recognize the effect of the layers. Note that Capture One Pro will
not have access to editing the Photoshop layers, it will only be able to
work on what is equal to a flattened version of the file.
The original file will now be opened in the application without any of the
Capture One Pro adjustments being baked into the file.
Note that if you are opening a raw file, the raw converter in the external
application will be used. This is important to be aware of as the raw im-
age will look different if you, for example, use Photoshop because the
raw file will then be converted with Adobe Raw Converter. It will render
colors, contrast, and sharpness differently than Capture One Pro.
If you open a file saved in JPEG, TIFF or PSD, the file will open in that
format, but you can choose to save it in another format by using the
Save As command in the external application. As noted before, Capture
One Pro will happily accept TIFF and PSD files saved with layers created
in Photoshop - or a similar application. Once you save the file, it will by
default go in the same location as the original file, and Capture One Pro
will automatically recognize it. Just remember to select the Maximize
Compatibility option if there are any layers in the file. Otherwise Capture
One Pro will not be able to display the image content.
File formats that Capture One Pro accept
There is a couple of things to be aware of when you save in different file
formats.
Capture One Pro will import and show the image content of files saved
in Greyscale and CMYK modes for both TIFF and PSD, but you cannot
edit those types of files. In other words, you can use Capture One Pro to
keep the Greyscale and CMYK files organized with the rest of your im-
ages, but there is no way to make any adjustments on them. The same
is true if you save a Greyscale image as JPEG and PNG. Since these
two file formats cannot be saved in a CMYK format, so you don’t have to
worry about compatibility.
Note that you can save and edit TIFF and PSD files in both 8-bit, 16- and
even 32-bit formats. The 32-bit support is important if you’re working
on HDR (High Dynamic Range) images where multiple exposures have
been merged to a 32-bit HDR file in for example the free and excellent
HDR Efex Pro 2 application.
Simulate the correct colors
with Proof Profile
There can be a large difference in which colors different devices like
printers and monitors are able to reproduce. For example, a CMYK-
based news print can only reproduce a much smaller color gamut than
a high-end photo printer. To complicate matters, your monitor has its
own limitations on what colors it can display, and it emits colors as light
where a print reflects them.
In this example, the sRGB color space is inserted within the larger Ado-
be RGB color space.
Imagine that your photo contains some of the green colors only covered
in the Adobe RGB, and you need to save the image with a sRGB profile
for web view. The color management software will - based on the ICC
Profile - know whether to disregard those out of gamut green colors or
to convert them to comparable greens that the sRGB color profile can
reproduce.
Color management is much more complex than just that, but this is the
basic concept you should be familiar with.
When you import an image into Capture One Pro, an ICC Profile is auto-
matically attached to it (see the Base Characteristics tool chapter). You
can go ahead and make image adjustments without changing anything,
but it is highly recommended that you select a proper ICC Profile be-
cause Capture One Pro will then simulate the colors of that profile when
viewing the images in the Viewer and Browser. This is called soft proof-
ing and is done with the Proof Profile feature.
When you want to select a specific ICC Profile, go to the main menu and
select View > Proof Profile and then choose the desired one from the
submenu.
The soft proofing feature is very flexible because you can either chose
to view the colors based on the selected Recipe, a specific output reci-
pe, or a specific ICC profile like Adobe RGB. Note that you can expand
the list by choosing Show All, which will get your access to all the ICC
profiles on your computer. This can be very handy if you need to load a
specific printer profile or want access to the very wide ProPhoto RGB
color space.
Another nice bonus to the soft proofing feature in Capture One Pro is
that it is always on regardless of what part of the user interface you are
working in.
Gamut warning
The soft proofing feature in Capture One Pro is unfortunately not able to
give you a visual warning if certain colors in the image are outside what
the target device can reproduce. If this feature is critical to you, then
open the image in Photoshop and select View and enable Gamut Warn-
ing. Then select Proof Setup > Custom and select the target ICC profile
to Simulate.
Having said that, the Exposure Warning in Capture One Pro can still be
helpful when adjusting colors according to the output ICC Profile. The
warning is based upon which color profile is selected in the Proof Profile
submenu. A sRGB profile contains a smaller color gamut than the Ado-
be RGB profile and will therefore show certain colors as clipped which
might get no warning if the Adobe RGB profile is selected. If you want
the Exposure Warning to more closely mirror the full-color gamut in a
raw file, you should consider choosing the ProPhoto profile.
You can check this behavior by adjusting the Saturation slider all the
way to max and turn on Exposure Warning by using the keyboard short-
cut command + E (Ctrl + E on Windows) and then try to change between
ProPhoto, Adobe RGB, and sRGB. You will see that certain colors are
marked as burned out with the sRGB profile and maybe even with the
Adobe RGB compared to the ProPhoto profile.
One nice workflow is to start out with working on a Variant with the Pro-
Photo ICC profile selected. As noted above, this will get you a very wide
color gamut that closely mirrors all the colors available in a raw file. This
will exceed the colors that your monitor can reproduce, but relying part-
ly on the Exposure Warning will still help you get the best possible base
file.
When done with all of your image adjustments, you can make a copy of
the file by selecting Adjustments > Clone Variant (or hit the keyboard
shortcut F3), change the ICC Profile to the target output, and then tweak
the colors. This workflow allows you to have a master file and a number
of cloned Variants that can be optimized to match for example a specific
printer ICC profile and the sRGB profile used for web usage.
Most photographers work with the Adobe RGB as the base color profile
because it roughly matched what you can reproduce on a good printer.
It also matched the colors that the best monitors can reproduce, but it is
worth to point out that the ProPhoto color space can contain a fair deal
more colors. Here you can see the Adobe RGB color space inserted
over the ProPhoto profile.
There is no right and wrong as to whether you prefer to make your im-
age adjustments with the Adobe RGB or the ProPhoto profile selected.
Adobe RGB is more straightforward to use, whereas ProPhoto is the
choice if you don’t want to exclude any of the captured colors.
In fact, you cannot select anything from the Proof Profile submenu when
you have Recipe Proofing activated. You will instead get a message to
turn Recipe Proofing off if you want to enable the Proof Profile submenu
again. This is done to make sure that two different output ICC Profiles
cannot be selected at the same time; the one on the in selected Process
Recipe will always be used.
The Recipe Proofing feature is meant to be used when you adjust and
review the settings in the Process Recipe Tool. It will show you exact-
ly how the final image will look once it has been processed by Capture
One Pro with regards to file format, final pixels dimensions, output sharp-
ening, jpeg compression, and selected ICC Profile.
You enable Recipe Proofing by going to the main menu and selecting
View > Show Recipe Proofing or using the keyboard shortcut Shift +
command + backslash. The image will now be resized to its output di-
mensions, and a Proofing label will be displayed over it in the viewer.
If you zoom into 100%, you can perfect the sharpening (and JPEG com-
pression) and see exactly what the image will look like when it is pro-
cessed and exported.
This feature was introduced in Capture One Pro version 10 and is a great
time saver as you no longer need to export the image and open it in for
example Photoshop to review the final image quality on a pixel level.
Printing directly from Capture One Pro
You don’t have to export the images first in order to print them; it can be
done with great results directly from Capture One Pro. You can control
color management for the print, adjust layout and margins on the page
and even add a watermark or print several images as contact sheets.
Print Sharpening
You can add some additional print out-
put sharpening with the Sharpening
slider. There is no firm guideline as to
what amount is perfect; you will just
have to experiment a bit and do a cou-
ple of test print on the target paper
with different levels of sharpening un-
til you get it right. A value between 10
and 25 should do the trick.
You can now select the desired profile from the Color Profile drop-down
menu. Note that you might have to select the Show All option at the bot-
tom of the Color Profile drop-down menu to get access to all ICC Pro-
files on your computer (see next page):
Make sure that you select the correct printer and paper combination –
this is very important in order to get the correct print quality regarding
both colors and the amount of added ink. Notice how the Preview im-
age window in the Print dialog box will change as you select a new pro-
file. Capture One Pro is automatically showing you a soft proofing of the
ICC profile, just as if you have selected it from the View > Proof Profile
menu.
The option might be called something else with your printer, with Epson
the right option is Off (No Color Adjustment). Then click Save to commit
the changes. Note that sometimes the printer driver is clever enough to
notice that Capture One Pro has taken over control of the color manage-
ment and has disabled it automatically for you.
Rendering intent
Once you have selected a specific Color Profile, the Rendering Intent
drop-down menu becomes available. This option is used by the color
management system to determine how colors in the image will be con-
verted to fit within the color space of
the ICC printer profile. There will often
be certain colors in the image that the
combination of printer and paper can-
not reproduce, and Rendering intent
will tell Capture One Pro what to do
with these out-of-gamut colors.
Absolute Colorimetric leaves all colors that fall inside the destination
gamut unchanged, while all of the out-of-gamut colors are discarded.
This intent will maintain color accuracy, but you will probably be losing
certain saturated colors. Absolute Colorimetric can, however, be useful
for previewing how your selected paper prints colors.
As mentioned, Cell Border adds an even space around the image cells.
Image settings
The options in the Image Settings
panel is fairly self-explanatory, but we
will go through them briefly.
The Include Overlays option will add and print any graphic on top of the
image that is inserted with the Overlay tool. You will need to move the
overlay to the correct position with the Overlay tool before entering the
Print dialog.
The Include Annotations option will add and print all the notes on top of
the image that you have entered within the Annotations tool.
See the Tokens chapter for more information on how to use them, just
note that you can save a certain setup as a Preset for later use.
Note that you can combine Tokens with text that you enter yourself.
Once the Token or text is entered, you can position the text with the Hor-
izontal and Vertical sliders. A value of 49 and -49 respectably will place
the watermark in the lower-right corner of the image. You can also con-
trol the font type and size by clicking on the three-dotted box at the end
of the Font as well as the Opacity of the text. The Scale slider will make
the text smaller or larger, just like changing the font size.
Adding a graphic file as a watermark instead of text works pretty much
the same way. Here you just need to select Image from the Kind drop-
down menu. You can now drag and drop the wanted file on the box or
click on the 3-dotted icon by File and navigate to it. Then use the Hori-
zontal and Vertical sliders to position the watermark on the image and
adjust Opacity and Scale to taste.
Note that the watermark is a sticky setting in the sense that it will be
added to all prints going forward until you change it. If you don’t want to
include the watermark on certain images, just select None from the Kind
drop-down menu.
Tip: Change Viewer background to white
The background of the Viewer is set to a dark tone by default in Capture
One Pro which makes it difficult to correctly judge colors and the light
balance of the image, particularly for a print that will end up on a white
media. It is therefore highly recommended that you change the back-
ground color to White. This is done by opening the Preferences and
choosing the Appearance tab. Then change the background color to
White from the Color drop-down menu.
You might also want to enable the Proof Margin option in the top-left
corner of the Viewer in order to get a bigger, white frame around the im-
age.
This will aid you in getting a better feel for how the image will look when
printed on a white piece of paper. You can expand the Proof Margin in
the Preferences under the Appearance tab.
Simulate the correct colors with Proof Profile
As explored in a prior chapter about using the Proof Profile feature, you
should remember to select the target ICC Profile when doing the final
adjustments and review of the image you are going to print. Go to the
main menu and select View > Proof Profile and then select the desired
one from the submenu.
Go to the main menu and select View > Slide Show (or use the keyboard
shortcut command + <). The slide show will now start automatically from
the first selected image and show all the images in the selected image
collecting. If you want to exit the slide show, just hit the Esc key on the
keyboard.
The Slide Show has some settings, but those will only be available once
you have started it. When the first image appears, move the mouse.
Then click on the settings icon in the control panel that appears.
You can now choose between 10 different types of transitions from the
Transition drop-down menu (see next page):
You can also adjust the Slide Duration from 1 to 60 seconds and select
whether the slide show should restart once it has displayed the last im-
age in the collection. This is done with the Loop option:
The control panel also lets you pause and restart the slide show as well
as moving to the prior or next image. You can also operate the show
with the keyboard: Spacebar pauses and restarts the presentation while
the left and right arrow keys let you move through the images. Finally,
you can exit the slide show by clicking on the cross icon.
Making a Contact Sheet for Web
Capture One Pro has a very nice web-based contact sheet feature that
let you share selected images with others for review. You can also use it
as the photo gallery. The exported contact sheet is based on HTML and
can be viewed in any web browser, and all the required web data and
images are exported to a single folder to keep things organized. If you
want to share it by email for example, just compress the main folder as a
zip file and send it.
Note that if you want to print a contact instead, you need to use the Print
feature and select one of the built-in Contact Sheets print templates
from the Templates panel.
When ready, you should first select all the images that you want to be in-
cluded in the web contact sheet, then go to the main menu and choose
File > Make Web Contact Sheet….
You can set the Preview Size slider all the way up to 2400 pixels if you
want the images to be of fairly high resolution in the gallery, just remem-
ber that they will take longer to upload and download. When you adjust
the Thumbnail slider, the size will update live in the preview window,
making it easier to visualize the right amount.
Exporting the Contact Sheet for Web
Before hitting the Export button, you need to decide where to save the
contact sheet. This is done by clicking on the three-dotted box to the
right side of Path. Navigate to the desired location – like the desktop –
give the contact sheet a name, and click OK.
Capture One Pro will now create a root folder with the name and put all
the web pages, thumbnails, images and web-scripts inside it. Inside the
root folder is a file called index.html which will launch the contact sheet/
photo gallery.
The Export Photo XML Data option will not add any extra visual data to
the contact sheet but add an XML file to the root of the folder.
Putting it on a website
It is very easy to put the contact sheet/photo gallery on a website be-
cause it is entirely based on web standards and everything is neatly or-
ganized inside the root folder. You just upload everything within the root
folder to the root directory of your website, and it will just plain work.
Note that this will overwrite the current index.html file on the website, so
in most cases, it is recommended to upload the root folder with all the
content to your site. Then direct people to the index.html file within the
root folder. So, if your website is www.reallygreatsite.com and your up-
loaded contact sheet is named “greatlooks”, you should share this link;
www.reallygreatsite.com/greatlooks/index.html. This way you can have
several photo galleries on your site.
Backup your catalog and session data
Since Capture One Pro is using a non-destructive workflow - where your
adjustments are kept as separate files from your images - you need
to have a solid plan for backing up both types of files. Depending on
whether you are using Catalogs or Sessions, the backup workflow will
be slightly different because the important files are saved in different lo-
cations.
Making backup of a Catalog
Capture One Pro will automatically remind you to make a backup of the
Catalog at regular intervals. This can be set in the Preferences in the
General tab under Catalog Backup.
You can either choose every time Capture One Pro is closed, once a
day, once a week or once a month. You can also turn the automatic re-
minder off, although that is not recommended unless you have another
solid backup system in place.
When the reminder pops up, just click Backup or dismiss it with Not
Now.
Note that you have the option to perform a test of the catalog’s integrity
as well optimizing it during the backup process. You can also change the
Backup Location by clicking on the three-dotted box.
You can always invoke the backup manually by going to the main menu
and selecting File > Backup Catalog….
It is important to stress that all the original image files are NOT backed
up with this procedure unless you have chosen to store the files within
the catalog itself. Please see the chapter on importing and file manage-
ment for more information on how to do this. You will need to back up
the original image files separately with another piece of software.
The backup folder will be named after the time and date of the backup
and contains both the catalog itself as well as an Adjustments folder with
three subfolders called ICC, LAM, and LCC. They will contain any creat-
ed ICC Profiles, Local Adjustment Masks, and LCC profiles respectively.
One important difference between the original Catalog and the backed-
up Catalog is that the last does not contain any of the preview files. This
makes the backup Catalog file significant smaller because the preview
files can demand several gigabytes of space.
The big advantage to this approach is that the Catalog is backed-up very
fast even to the cloud. However, all the preview files need to be ren-
dered again if you open the backup catalog.
You will now notice that the package contains the Catalog itself (xxx.co-
catalogdb), the Adjustments folder (with the three subfolders ICC, LAM,
and LCC) and a folder called Cache. This is the same as the default file
structure on Windows.
All the preview files are stored in the Cache folder in two subfolders.
The one called Previews contains the larger xxx.cop proxy files for the
Viewer, while the Thumbnails subfolder contains the smaller xxx.cot
files for the Browser.
The only critical files to remember to backup is the Capture One Pro Cat-
alog database file (called xxx.cocatalogdb) and the content within the
Adjustments folder. The preview files can always be rendered again, as
long as you have a backup of Catalog database file, the Adjustments
folder, and the original image files.
Secondly, you should decide whether you want to back up all the associ-
ated preview files in the Cache folder or save space by discarding them.
Capture One Pro will re-render them as needed when you select the
images in the Session next time, so there is no harm done in excluding
them from your backup plan.
It doesn’t help you to have all three copies in your home or office be-
cause theft or a fire can wipe them all out at once. So at least keep a
copy on an external drive in another location like a bank box, at some
family or a friend’s house.
If you run into any technical problems, please contact Technical Support
for the Capture One software. The Phase One support crew has a repu-
tation for being quick and helpful, so do not hesitate to contact them to
get your issue resolved.
On the Phase One support webpage you will also find a Knowledge
Base, a list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) and a helpful user to
user forum where you might find answers to your questions or issues.
Feedback
Any feedback on how to improve this eBook would be more than wel-
come. This is also that case if you believe that you have found an error
or there is something that could be explained more clearly.