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Diversity

Kereffect™ SD

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Style Transformation
▪ The hair is a powerful extension of consumers’
personality

▪ Consumers with naturally wavy or curly hair require

the option to straighten their style

Kereffect™ SD
▪ Straightening irons (temporary effect)
▪ Harsher straightening or relaxer systems, (significant
amounts of damage on both the scalp and the hair)
▪ Consumers with extremely curly hair desire more
manageability of the hair

▪ Milder straightening system combining sodium

sulphite with Kereffect SD delivers effective style
transformations on curl types III-VIII

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Sodium Sulphite and Kereffect™ SD Mechanism
-SS-

-SS-
Within the
-SS-
hair fibre
-SS-

-SS-
Innovation you can build onTM
Sodium Sulphite and Kereffect™ SD Mechanism
-SS-

-SS-

-SS-

-SS-

-SS-
Innovation you can build onTM
Sodium Sulphite and Kereffect™ SD Mechanism

-SS- -SS-

-SS- -SH HS-

SODIUM SULPHITE
-SS- -SS-

-SS- No Kereffect SD -SH HS-

-SS- -SS-

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Sodium Sulphite and Kereffect™ SD Mechanism

Addition of
Kereffect SD

Apply Heat

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Sodium Sulphite and Kereffect™ SD Mechanism
SS
-S-S-R
-SH
R-S-S-
HS-
SS
-S-S-R
-SH
R-S-S-
HS-
R= Keratin peptide
SS
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Kereffect SD
Before After 30
▪ On curl types III to V treatment wash/dry cycles
Kereffect SD allows
reversible, semi-permanent
straightening.

Kereffect™ SD
Before After 1 wash/dry
▪ On curl types VI to VIII
treatment cycle
Kereffect SD loosens
tight curls for naturally
defined, more
manageable styles.

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 Kereffect SD
▪ INCI: Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Keratin
Molecular Weight Active level Appearance
300 Da ~23% Clear Yellow Liquid

▪ Our proprietary manufacturing method allows us to

Kereffect™ SD
create a hydrolysed keratin with a difference

▪ Heat activation promotes bonding with reduced

disulphide groups in the hair
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Kereffect SD Benefits
▪ Prolongs the hair straightening efficacy of sodium
sulphite, offering a milder alternative to traditional
straightening systems

▪ Heat-activated technology

Kereffect™ SD
▪ Flexible results allowing choice of hair styles

▪ Semi-permanent straightening on curl type III-V,

proven to last 30 washes

▪ Enhances manageability and curl definition on curl

type VI-VIII

▪ Maintains hair strength

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Traditional Curl Type
Classification

Kereffect™ SD
▪ Traditionally, a visual curl type classification has
been used, which ranges from categories 1-4, with
sub-categories A-D in some cases
▪ There tends to be overlap between categories, and it
is open to interpretation
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Technical Curl Type
Classification

Kereffect™ SD
▪ A more scientific approach is possible by measuring
different properties of curly hair and fitting it to a
category based on these measurements
Image Source: Simplyorganicbeauty.com
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Technical Curl Type Classification
First, a curve diameter is taken. This
classified hair into categories I – IV.
Anything with higher curvature will fit into
the central portion of the model

For highly curled hair, types V – VIII, the hair

is extended to a fixed length and the
number of wave peaks counted. Based on
the number of peaks, the hair can be further
categorised as type V, VI, VII or VIII

Source: Geneviève Loussam PharmD et al., Worldwide

diversity of hair curliness: a new method of assessment,
Innovation you can build onTM International Journal of Dermatology, 46 (Suppl. 1), 2-6,
2007
Worldwide Diversity
▪ Using this classification, the hair types across
different global regions has been mapped

Innovation you can build onTM
Kereffect™ SD
Source: Geneviève Loussam PharmD et al., Worldwide
diversity of hair curliness: a new method of assessment,
International Journal of Dermatology, 46 (Suppl. 1), 2-6,
2007
Kereffect SD
▪ Different responses for different curl
type

▪ Curl type III

Kereffect™ SD
▪ Curl type VII

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Embrace Style
Diversity

Curl Type III

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Application Protocol
Product Left for 30 Left on
applied minutes hair while
blow dried

Kereffect™ SD
Straighten
Rest for 15
minutes 10 times
Wash and
Blow dry

Straighten Hair left for

10 times 5 days

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Testing Protocol
Wash 1:
Blow dry and
straighten

Wash 5: Left
Wash 2:
to dry
Blow dry and

Kereffect™ SD
naturally
straighten
overnight

Wash 4: Wash 3:
Blow dry and Blow dry and
straighten straighten

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 Formulations
Formulation 1a* Formulation 1b* Formulation 1c** Formulation 1d**

Ingredient/INCI Name % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w

Part A
Brij™ S2 (Steareth-2)1 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
Brij S721 (Steareth-21)1 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
Crodacol™ CS50 (Cetearyl Alcohol)1 1.75 1.75 1.75 1.75
Mineral Oil 25CS at 25ºC (Paraffinum Liquidum) 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50
Part B
Pricerine™ 9091 (Glycerin)1 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
Keltrol CG SFT (Xanthan Gum)4 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50
Part C
Water Deionised (Aqua) To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100
Sodium Sulphite 2.50 2.50 - -
Urea 2.00 2.00 - -
Part D
Kereffect™ SD (Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Keratin)1 - 26.88 - -
Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine - - - 20.00
Glyoxylic Acid - - 10.00 -
Fragrance A339462 (Parfum)2 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
Euxyl PE9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80
Ethylhexylglycerin)3
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Ungerer 3: Schülke 4: CP Kelco
*It should be noted that formulations containing sodium sulphite should be adjusted to pH4.5 using citric acid, immediately
prior to use, as sodium sulphite is more effective at reducing disulphide bonds at this lower pH
**Formulations at pH 2 or below putting both the hair and scalp at risk of damage
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Visual Results
Before treatment After 30 wash/dry cycles

Formulation 1a, Formulation 1b, Formulation 1c, Formulation 1d,

Control (without with 5% active with 5% active with 20% w/w
Kereffect SD) Kereffect SD glyoxylic acid glyoxyloyl
carbocysteine

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Quantifying Straightening Efficacy
Sodium Sulphite &
Glyoxylic Acid
Kereffect™ SD

Images analysis

▪ Mask images

▪ White: non
alignment of hair

▪ Ratio white/black
curl factor

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 Quantifying Straightening Efficacy
0.25

0.2

Straighter Appearance
0.15
Curl Factor

0.1

* * * *

0.05

0
Before After Treatment After 5 Day Wash 5 Wash 10 Wash 15 Wash 20 Wash 25 Wash 30
Treatment Rest

Kereffect SD System Sodium Sulphite System Glyoxylic Acid System Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine System

Innovation you can build onTM

 Quantifying Straightening Efficacy
0.25

0.2

Straighter Appearance
0.15
Curl Factor

0.1

0.05

0
Before After After 5 Day Wash 5 Wash 10 Wash 15 Wash 20 Wash 25 Wash 30
Treatment Treatment Rest

Kereffect SD System Sodium Sulphite System

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 Quantifying Straightening Efficacy
0.2

0.18

Straighter Appearance
0.16

0.14

0.12
Curl Factor

0.1

0.08

0.06

0.04

0.02

0
Before After After 5 Day Wash 5 Wash 10 Wash 15 Wash 20 Wash 25 Wash 30
Treatment Treatment Rest

Kereffect SD System Glyoxylic Acid System

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Embrace Style
Diversity

Salon Data

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Salon Protocol
▪ Apply the product to wet hair in quadrants with a
brush and comb through
▪ Leave on for 30 minutes
▪ Blow dry product into the hair with a round brush
▪ Flat iron the hair (5-7 passes)

Kereffect™ SD
▪ Wait 15 minutes
▪ Wash and conditioner the hair (L’Oreal Everpure
Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner)
▪ Blow dry and flat iron the hair.

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Salon Data

Kereffect™ SD
Before treatment After treatment After Wash 2
(blow dry only)

▪ Straight style is achievable

“My
▪ Flat iron hairneeded
is not has less
to of a curl
obtain pattern”
straighter hair
compare to the virgin hair

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Embrace Style
Diversity

Assessing
Hair Integrity
and Bond
Building

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 Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC)
▪ Induces a complete denaturation of hair proteins in a controlled heating
cycle.
Denaturation enthalpy (HD) -
Denaturation temperature (TD) - the energy absorbed during
controlled by the cross-linking unfolding of proteins
density of the hair matrix; cross-
linking is known to increase TD1

▪ Damaged hair has lower values, therefore it is beneficial for products to increase
TD and HD
▪ However, compared to virgin hair, higher values are indicative of rigidity caused by
excessive cross linking within the hair
1Investigationsof cosmetically treated human hair by differential scanning calorimetry in water, F. Wortmann, C. Springob, G. Sendelbach, Journal of Cosmetic Science, 53, 219-
228, July/Aug 2002

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 Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC)
168 20 *
*
166 18
164 16 * *
162 14
160 12

ΔHD (J/g)
TD (°C)

158 * 10
156 8
154 6
152 4
150 2
148 0
Virgin Hair Sodium Sulphite Kereffect SD Glyoxylic Acid Glyoxylyol Virgin Hair Sodium Sulphite Kereffect SD Glyoxylic Acid Glyoxylyol
(Untreated) System System System Carbocysteine (Untreated) System System System Carbocysteine
System System

▪ Hair treated with formulations containing glyoxylic acid or glyoxyloyl carbocysteine

significantly increases TD, indicating over cross-linking within the hair fibre

▪ The addition of 5% active Kereffect™ SD to a formulation containing sodium

sulphite increases ΔHD slightly, indicating that Kereffect SD influences the
configuration of protein bonds within the hair following treatment, potentially
resulting in its ability to prolong the straightening effect of sodium sulphite

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Tensile Measurements
▪ Used to measure the strength and integrity of
individual hair fibres. The method works by loading
strain onto hair fibres and measuring the resistance
to this strain

Kereffect™ SD
Young’s Modulus (A) - The ability of
hair to withstand changes when
under tension at low strain

(A)

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Tensile Measurements
1.80E+09
*
1.60E+09
*
Young's Modulus (Pascals)

Hair is More Easily Damaged

1.40E+09

1.20E+09

1.00E+09

8.00E+08

6.00E+08

4.00E+08

Kereffect™ SD
2.00E+08

0.00E+00
Virgin Hair Kereffect SD System Sodium Sulphite Glyoxylic Acid Glyoxylyol
(Untreated) System System Carbocysteine
System

▪ Treatment with both glyoxylic acid or glyoxyoyl

carbocysteine significantly reduces the Young’s Modulus of
the hair compared to untreated virgin hair, indicating that
they are more damaging treatments

▪ The Kereffect SD system does not reduce the Young’s

Modulus of the hair compared to untreated virgin hair,
indicating that the system does not damage the structure of
the hair fibre
Innovation you can build onTM
Embrace Style
Diversity

Presentation
overview
and
formulation

Curl type III

Innovation you can build onTM
Kereffect SD Benefits
▪ Prolongs the hair straightening efficacy of sodium
sulphite, offering a milder alternative to traditional
straightening systems

▪ Heat-activated technology

Kereffect™ SD
▪ Flexible results allowing choice of hair styles

▪ Semi-permanent straightening on curl type III-V,

proven to last 30 washes

▪ Enhances manageability and curl definition on curl

type VI-VIII

▪ Maintains hair strength

Innovation you can build onTM

Embrace Style
Diversity

Formulation

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Formulation Guidelines
▪ Post-added to emulsions during the cooling stages
▪ Extended periods at high temperature or extreme pH
should be avoided
▪ Kereffect SD is stable between pH 4 and pH 9
▪ Formulations containing sodium sulphite are stored

Kereffect™ SD
at pH >7 in order to maintain the stability of the
straightening active
▪ Any straightening treatment formulations developed
combining sodium sulphite with Kereffect SD should
be pH adjusted to 4.5 using citric acid immediately
prior to use, to offer optimum straightening
performance

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Loosen Up! Hair Treatment CH0052
Ingredient/INCI Name Functionality % w/w
Part A
Brij™ S2 (Steareth-2)1 O/W Emulsifier 5.00
Brij S721 (Steareth-21)1 O/W Emulsifier 2.00
Crodacol™ CS50 (Cetearyl Alcohol)1 Viscosity builder 1.75
Mineral Oil 25cS at 25ºC (Paraffinum Liquidum) Emollient 1.50
Part B
Pricerine™ 9091 (Glycerin)1 Humectant 3.00
Keltrol CG-SFT (Xanthan Gum)4 Rheology builder 1.50
Part C
Water Deionised (Aqua) - To 100
Sodium Sulphite Hair reducing agent 2.50
Urea Hair swelling agent 2.00
Part D
Kereffect™ SD (Aqua (and) Keratin Hydrolysed)1 Style prolonging biopolymer 26.88
Fragrance A339462 (Parfum)2 Fragrance 2.00
Euxyl PE9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)3 Preservative 0.80
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Ungerer 3: Schülke 4: CP Kelco

Innovation you can build onTM

Embrace Style
Diversity

Thank You
Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and
is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its
completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for uses or
applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for
determining the suitability of these products for their own
particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or
implied, is made with respect to information or products
including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness
for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party
patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit,
copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks identified
herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda
group of companies.
©2017 Croda International Plc
11/17PCEMP1802v1EN

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