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Effect of chelating agent in disperse dye dyeing on polyester fabric

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DOI: 10.1007/s12221-017-7481-4

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Fibers and Polymers 2017, Vol.18, No.12, 2315-2321 ISSN 1229-9197 (print version)
DOI 10.1007/s12221-017-7481-4 ISSN 1875-0052 (electronic version)

Effect of Chelating Agent in Disperse dye Dyeing on Polyester Fabric

Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir2* and Joonseok Koh1
1
Department of Organic & Nano System Engineering, Konkuk University, Seoul 05029, Korea
2
Department of Wet Process Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Dhaka 1208, Bangladesh
(Received May 31, 2017; Revised August 28, 2017; Accepted September 27, 2017)

Abstract: In this study, mild acid based chelating agents (glycolic acid, gluconic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, and
citric acid) were used for the dyeing of polyester fabrics with metal sensitive disperse dye in closed dyeing process. The
chelating and pH adjustment efficiencies were compared in disperse dyeing condition. In the comparative analysis with
different chelating agents, glycolic acid showed a higher chelation efficiency and consequently showed higher dye bath
exhaustion and color strength. Slight differences in the color fastness of the dyed samples obtained by employing four
different chelating agents were observed.
Keywords: Chelating agents, Metal sensitive disperse dyes, Color strength, Color difference

Introduction metal dispersion and decreases the specific surface area and
pore volume of the metal components. The addition of citric
Water is the most important process medium in the dyeing acid increases the amount of metal ion adsorption. Increasing
of textile materials despite the fact that dyers face lots of the adsorption depends on the formation of more complex
problems caused by hard water. Hard water results from high structures [7,8]. Dyeing of polyester fibers with disperse dye
levels of calcium and magnesium in water [1]. Simply is a more complex process and the rate of dye uptake is a
boiling and filtering the water eliminates temporary hardness;
however permanent hardness is really difficult to be removed.
There are several problems caused by hard water, such as
precipitation of soaps and redeposition that causes yellowing
and leads to unlevel dyeing [2]. Chelating agent is a dyeing
auxiliary which is used during dyeing for removing hardness
of water by bonding with calcium and magnesium ions and
other heavy metal ions in hard water. They form molecules
in which the ions are held so securely (sequestered) that they
can no longer react. Chelating agents form a stable complex
compound, which does not get decomposed over a prolonged
processing period [3]. There are lots of sequestering agents
that are widely used in textile wet processing. Organic
compounds that have several hydroxyl groups often have the
property of preventing precipitation of bi- and trivalent
metal cations in alkaline medium. Some of the well-known
products in this category are glycolic acid, ethylenediaminetetra
acetic acid, gluconic acid, and citric acid. The coordination
of water with metal ions enhances the acidity of the dye
solution which is dependent on the physical and the chemical
characteristics of the metal ions (Scheme 1) [4].
Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid makes water soluble
complex compounds which vigorously react with metal ions
thus preventing or removing scales [5]. Gluconic acid is
obtained from fruit, honey, and wine. In aqueous solution at
neutral pH level, gluconic acid forms gluconate ion. It is
used in cleaning products where it makes the mineral
deposits get dissolved through the formation of ligand with
metal compounds [6]. Citric acid also strongly interacts with
the active metal components. This interaction helps the
Scheme 1. Coordination of metal ions with different chelating
*Corresponding author: s.mamunkabir@yahoo.com agents [4-8].

2315
2316 Fibers and Polymers 2017, Vol.18, No.12
physico-chemical process. Disperse dyes are applied in
aqueous dispersions; the solubility and the dispersion of the
dye in the dye bath are achieved by the use of different
auxiliaries and a higher dyeing temperature [9-12]. Even
though many studies have reported the importance of
dispersing and leveling agents for the dyeing polyester with
disperse dye [13-15], there have been a limited researcher
reporting the effects of chelating agent.
The aim of this study is to analyze the number of organic
chelating agents for the dyeing of polyester fabric with
disperse dye according to their chelation efficiency and
dyeing properties.
Experimental
Materials
Scoured 100 % polyester (75D/72 filaments) fabric (obtained
from Beximco Synthetic Ltd., Bangladesh) was used for
dyeing. Lyocol RDN liquid (Clariant Bangladesh Ltd,
Bangladesh) and Seragal PLP (Dystar Chemicals, Bangladesh)
were used as the dispersing agent and the leveling agent
respectively. In this study, C.I. Disperse Red 60 (Scheme 2)
dye was chosen because of its higher reactivity with metal
ions in water [17].
Reagent grade glycolic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic
acid (EDTA), gluconic acid, and citric acid used in this study
were obtained from Zhengzhou Sigma Chemical Company
Ltd., China. They were used just as obtained in all experiments
without any physical or chemical modification. The raw
water used for dyeing showed BOD of 50 mg/l, COD of
80 mg/l, and TDS of 315 mg/l and its hardness was 250 ppm.
Chelation Efficiency Measurement
4 mM chelating agents (glycolic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic
acid (EDTA), gluconic acid, and citric acid) were used.
Metal extractions were carried out in batch experiments
using a sequestering agent at a solution ratio of 1:50. Hence,
two ratios between the chelant and the sum of the total
concentrations of Ca2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Fe3+, Fe2+, Cu2+, Pb2+,
and Mn2+ in the solution were achieved. The experiments
were carried out at the pH levels that were established in
suspension (pH 2-12). The suspensions were shaken at room
temperature and sampled after certain time intervals. The
samples used for metal analysis were centrifuged for 15 min
at 3000 rpm and passed through 0.45 μm filters (Sartorius).
The samples used for iron analysis were additionally filtered
Scheme 2. Chemical structure of C.I. Disperse Red 60.
Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir and Joonseok Koh
Figure 1. Dyeing profile of polyester fabric with different
chelating agents.
through 0.05 μm filters. The pH was measured in suspension
and readjusted whenever needed. The dissolved Ca, Mg, Ba,
Fe, Cu, Pb, and Mn concentrations in the extraction
solutions were measured with a flame-AAS (Varian AA400)
[16].
Dyeing
A 100 ml dye bath suitable for a 2.0 g sample of polyester,
containing disperse dye (0.5 %, 1 %, 2 %, 4 % & 6 % owf),
leveling agent (0.5 g/l) and dispersing agent (Lyocol RDN
liquid) (1.0 g/l), different sequestering agent (glycolic acid,
EDTA, gluconic acid & citric acid) (1.0 g/l) was prepared.
After adjusting the pH level at 4.5, the polyester fabric
(2.0 g) was immersed in the dye bath, and then the
temperature was raised to 130 oC and gradient rate at 1.0 oC/
min. Dyeing was carried out at this temperature for 60 min
and then all of the dyed samples were rinsed and dried at
60 oC (Figure 1).
Measurement of Color Strength and Related Parameters
After dyeing, a 5 ml sample of the residual dye bath was
taken to measure the absorbance value using a UV-Vis
spectrophotometer (Agilent, USA) and the percentage dye
bath exhaustion (%E) was calculated by using equation (1).
A1 – A 2
- × 100
E% = --------------- (1)
A1
where A1 and A2 are the absorbance of the dye bath before
and after dyeing, respectively. Dye bath pH was obtained by
using a pH meter from the residual dye at room temperature
after dyeing. The color strength (fk) and the color difference
(ΔE) values of the dyed fabrics were measured using a
spectrophotometer (X-Rite 8000 Series, standard light D65,
10o standard observer, specular component included; X-rite,
USA) that was interfaced with a personal computer. Here, fk
represents the color strength value as the sum of the
weighted K/S values in the visible region of the spectrum, as
follows:
fk = Σλ = 400 ⎛⎝ ----⎞⎠ ( x10, λ + y10, λ + z 10, λ )
700 K
S λ
where x10, λ, y10, λ , and z 10, λ are the color-matching functions
Effect of Chelating Agent in Disperse Dye Dyeing on Polyester
for a 10 o standard observer at each wavelength (ISO 7724/1:
1984) [18]. The color differences, i.e., CIELab color deviation
(ΔE*) value was calculated by using equation (2).
* 2 * 2 * 2
ΔE = ( ΔL ) + ( Δa ) + ( Δb )
The values of L*, a*, and b* for a given color locate its
position in the three-dimensional CIELab color space, and
ΔL*=deviation of lightness; Δa*=deviation of color in green-
red axis; and Δb*=deviation of color in yellow-blue axis.
Both the color deviation and the depth of shade of the dyed
fabric were evaluated according to the AATCC test method
173-2006 under illuminant D65, large area view, and CIE
10 o standard observer. According to Yang and Li [26], the
levelness of the dyed fabric was assessed and it was
excellent. Therefore, it is better to use the modified levelness
parameter L, the ratings of which is equivalent to the grey
scale rating 5 for color change.
L = 1.2 × ( 2.0 – lnU ) when U ≥ 0.3114
L = 5.0 – 1.2 × exp ⎛ ---⎞ × U and U < 0.3114
7
⎝ 6⎠
where U= Σ Sr ( λ ) × V ( λ ) , Sr(λ)=relative sample standard
deviation of (K/S)λ, and V(λ)=spectral luminous function.
Measurement of Color Fastness Properties
In order to evaluate the color fastness of the (4 % owf)
disperse dyed polyester fabrics by employing different
chelating agents, the fabric samples were assessed according
to the corresponding international standards, i.e., fastness to
washing (ISO 105-C06 A2S: 2010), fastness to perspiration
(ISO 105-E04:2013), fastness to rubbing (ISO 105-X12:2016),
and fastness to light (ISO 105-B02:2013). The changes in
the shade and the staining of the adjacent multifibre fabric
(Multifibre DW, adjacent fabric, BS ISO 105-F10:1989)
were assessed using grey scales [25].
Results and Discussion
Measurement of Chelation Efficiency and pH Measure-
ment
The word “chelate” is derived from the Greek word “chel”
which means crab’s claw. Chemically, a chelate is an organic
compound which can form a ring structure by bonding with
metal ions. Disperse dyes are usually employed in aqueous
dispersion. An acidic media is essential for making an
aqueous phase which facilitates the transfer of disperse dyes
into hydrophobic polyester fibers because in alkaline
condition polyester fibers can get hydrolyzed. The aqueous
solubility of disperse dyes are quite low. The slow dissolving
of disperse dyes in water is promoted by the fine dispersion
by dispersing agent. The inclusion of dispersing agent in the
dye bath is a crucial factor in the application of disperses
Fibers and Polymers 2017, Vol.18, No.12 2317
(2)
Figure 2. Chelation efficiency of different chelating agents in
acidic medium.
dye. When this compound is added to water, its dual character
results in the formation of dye micelles. The hydrophobic
tails of the dispersing agent molecules are inside the micelles
which consequently are able to solubilize the disperse dye
molecules thus conferring a higher apparent solubility on the
dye. However, the presence of metal ions in water hinders
the formation of dye micelles [28]. Dispersion in moderately
acidic medium increases the affinity for the substrate, resulting
in a higher dye uptake at a lower pH level. Organic
substances such as glycolic acid (M.W. is 76.05 & pH is
5.4), EDTA (M.W. is 292.24 & pH is 9.0), gluconic acid
(M.W. is 196.15 & pH is 2.0), and citric acid (M.W. is
192.12 & pH is 3.2) are the natural chelating agents.
Maximum chelation facilitates a better adsorption of dyes
and produces an acidic media in the dye bath [3].
Figure 2 shows the chelation efficiency of different chelating
agents. Glycolic acid shows 100 % chelation power in all
metal ions because the lower molecular weight of glycolic
acid helps to remove all the metal ions. On the other hand,
ethylenediaminetetraaceticacid, gluconic acid, and citric
acid cannot remove the hardness of water. EDTA shows
better chelation efficiency in removing permanent hardness
than gluconic acid and citric acid. Glycolic acid which is a
naturally occurring organic agent shows more penetration of
metal ions. Natural chelates are biodegradable and are
nontoxic to the environment. Under natural conditions,
EDTA gets converted into ethylenediaminetriacetic acid and
then forms a ring structure with other metals which creates
persistent organic pollutants [19].
Figure 3 illustrates the pH adjustments of different chelating
agents in different concentrations of the acids used. As the
concentration decreases, the pH shifts towards alkaline
condition. It can be seen from this figure that for obtaining
pH 3, glycolic acid requires 10 percent concentration, however,
other chelating agents needs almost 12 percent concentration.
In addition, to obtain a pH 4, ethylenediaminetetraacetic
2318 Fibers and Polymers 2017, Vol.18, No.12 Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir and Joonseok Koh

Figure 3. pH adjustment of different chelating agents in different Figure 4. Exhaustion (%) of disperse dye on polyester fabric
conc. of acid (%). influence of different chelating agents.

acid, gluconic acid, and citric acid require two times higher formation of dye micelles.
concentration than glycolic acid. Likewise, trend can be It can be seen for Figure 4 that during the first 60 min of
observed in case of obtaining a pH 6. So glycolic acid gives dyeing the exhaustion increases at 90 oC; however, at 130 oC
a higher acidic condition than the others. The results explain the curve shows a higher exhaustion at a steady manner. It
that glycolic acid gets decomposed with the liberation of can be predicted that the crystalline polyester molecules
hydroxyl and carboxyl groups. Moreover the low molecular create amorphousness at 90 oC, so dye migration starts
weight of glycolic acid gives an advantageous effect for smoothly at this temperature. When the temperature increases,
contributing to the higher acidic media. So glycolic acid is the dye diffusion rate also increases and it gets completed
more economical than the other chelating agents because when the temperature reaches 130 oC. The saturation point
less amount of glycolic acid is required for maintaining for polyester dyeing in high temperature method is 130 oC
proper acidic condition in a dye bath. because at this temperature, some unfixed disperse dyes
move out from the polyester fabric. The dye bath containing
Dyeing Properties glycolic acid shows higher exhaustion values than the ones
Dye exhaustion is directly related to dyeing cost and containing EDTA, gluconic acid, and citric acid. From the
effluent control; also it is an indication of the color fastness dye bath exhaustion profile, it can be observed that a higher
properties of disperse dyes on polyester. Figure 4 shows the exhaustion obtained by using organic chelating agents is due
percentage dye bath concentration of different sequestering to their proper acidic dye bath. Likewise, trends were found
agents. Among all the organic chelating agents, glycolic acid in the case of fk as shown in Figure 5. Color strength (fk) is a
shows a higher exhaustion (close to 100 %), while EDTA,
gluconic acid, and citric acid show a slightly lower exhaustion
(not more than 97 %). It can be demonstrated that a moderate
acidic media constitute the best environment for dyeing of
polyester with disperse dye. Glycolic acid contributes to
creating a moderate acidic condition in the dye bath.
However, gluconic acid and citric acid provides a higher
acidic condition. On the contrary EDTA gives a slightly
alkaline condition. Therefore, it can be predicted that a
higher acidic condition enhances the dye uptake. However,
the results indicate that the slight acidic condition displayed
better dye dispersion which ultimately led to greater dye
uptake and dye diffusion for polyester fabric. However, both
a higher acidic and a higher alkaline condition cannot
facilitate proper dye dispersion in the dye bath for polyester
fabric. This result could be described that by the actions of
disperse dye and dispersing agent formed dye micelles, Figure 5. Color strength (fk) of disperse dye on polyester fabric
however, higher acidic and alkaline conditions hinder the influence of different chelating agents.
Effect of Chelating Agent in Disperse Dye Dyeing on Polyester
term used to describe the color efficiency on the surface of
the fabric. The relative color strength (fk) of dyed polyester
fabric depends on the amounts of dye applied (%owf). The
visually-weighted function of K/S gives the color strength
(fk) values. The upward trend of fk values shows in Figure 5
that a higher concentration of dye increases the color
strength. The build-up properties on polyester and the
saturation point reached application levels of 4.0 % owf.
Disperse dye produced a greater depth (fk 305.4) at 4.0 %
owf under the influence of glycolic acid; however, the other
chelating agents showed (fk 295.8). Therefore, it can be
expected that the organic chelating agents may result in high
difference for color strength (fk) with satisfactory uniformity.
However, it may show slight deviation due to the direct
effect of dye exhaustion.
The color difference of dyed fabrics was measured at
higher color strength (4 % owf) by using CIELab system.
The lightness value of color is represented by L*; a higher
lightness value indicates a lower color yield by the dyed
fabric. Actually a* and b* values represent the tone of the
color; positive values of a* and b* stand for reddish and
yellowish tones, respectively, on the other hand, negative
values of a* and b* represent greener and bluish tones,
respectively.
Table 1 clearly shows that no significant change was
observed in the L* values due to using different chelating
agents. The higher lightness value of dyed fabric samples
signifies less dark. Moreover, the positive a* and b* values
indicates that perfect red color was observed.
The color difference (ΔE) values is also given in Table 1
and it is clearly demonstrated that the use of glycolic acid
has increased the color difference as compared to the other
organic agents. The higher color difference is due to the
greater dye absorption of disperse dye by the polyester fiber
which accordingly leads to a higher fk values.
The levelness of dyed fabric was assessed using an
instrumental method that was developed by Yang and Li
[26]. In this study, the levelness of dyed polyester fabric was
“excellent” because the unlevelness value was found to be
less than 0.3114. So, we applied the modified levelness
parameter which is obtained values below 5, which are very
similar to the grey scale rating for color change. For the
dyeing to be level and even, it is essential to form slightly
acidic media that the dye dispersion remains stable during
the dyeing cycle.
Table 1. Color difference value of disperse dyed polyester fabrics
Sample L* a* b* ΔE
Without chelating agent 41.59 63.13 14.22 - fiber was 3-4. On the other hand, citric acid facilitates
Glycolic acid 41.90 62.30 13.15 1.38
EDTA 42.00 62.50 13.39 1.119
Gluconic acid 41.80 63.00 14.00 0.33
Citric acid 42.15 62.90 13.98 0.6512
Fibers and Polymers 2017, Vol.18, No.12 2319
Figure 6. Levelness (L) of disperse dye on polyester fabric
influence of different chelating agents.
However, slight differences were detected in the levelness
of the dyed samples because of using four different chelating
agents in our laboratory scale. The levelness was within the
range of 4.97-4.82. Figure 6 represents that glycolic acid
gives a higher levelness than the other chelating agents. This
can be explained by the higher exhaustion and the higher
color strength which ultimately generates the higher levelness.
Color Fastness Properties
An appropriate color fastness for various end uses can be
achieved by selecting a correct dye recipe and designing an
optimized finishing route. Color fastness also varies with
changes in the fibre structure and properties. From the build-
up properties of disperse dyed polyester fabrics it was found
that 4 % owf is the highest saturation point. So, we made
different color fastness tests according to that point. In order
to study color fastness of dyed polyester fabric, we measured
the color fastness to washing, rubbing, light and perspiration.
Color fastness to wash is compared in Table 2. Nylon and
acetate were consistently found to be the most stained
components of the multifibre fabrics for the disperse dyed
polyester fabrics. The data presents that dyed samples using
different chelating agents exhibited a color change rating of
“good” to “excellent” (within numerical grades 4-5). Since
moderate acidic condition enhances the dye uptake, better
color fastness ratings are obtained.
Gluconic acid and EDTA provide a higher acidic and a
higher alkaline condition in a dye bath, respectively. In a
higher acidic condition, disperse dye and dispersing agent
cannot form dye micelle which reduces the dye penetration
into polyester. So, the staining observed on acetate and nylon
moderate acidic condition (pH 3.2). Hence, increased dye
penetration enhanced the rating (4) of staining on nylon and
acetate fibers.
In case of rubbing and light fastness, all types of dyed
samples showed (in Table 3) almost similar ratings; however,
2320 Fibers and Polymers 2017, Vol.18, No.12 Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir and Joonseok Koh

Table 2. Color fastness to washing (ISO 105-C06 A2S: 2010)

Washing fastness ratings (4 % owf) disperse dyed polyester
Test fabric
Color Color staining
sample
change Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool
Glycolic acid 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
EDTA 4-5 3-4 4-5 3-4 4-5 4-5 4-5
Gluconic acid 4-5 3-4 4-5 3-4 4-5 4-5 4-5
Citric acid 4-5 4 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5

Table 3. Color fastness to light (ISO 105-B02:2013) & rubbing demonstrate that in case of acidic perspiration, dye may
(ISO 105-X12:2016) bleed out from the surface of the dyed fabric and stain the
Test fabric samples Rubbing fastness acetate fiber. On the contrary, the dyed fabric using EDTA
Color fastness
(4 % owf) disperse performed better in alkaline condition so unfixed dyes
to light Dry Wet
dyed polyester stained nylon (3-4) during testing color fastness to alkaline
Glycolic acid 4-5 4-5 3-4 perspiration. Gluconic and citric acid used dyed fabrics
EDTA 4-5 4-5 4-5 stained nylon and acetate (ratings were 3-4) in case of acidic
and alkaline perspiration. Since gluconic and citric acid
Gluconic acid 4-5 4-5 4-5
provide a higher acidic condition in the dye bath, the dye
Citric acid 4-5 4-5 4-5
micelle formation was reduced and so dye penetration into
the polyester fabric was lower. The dye penetration and
the fabric in which glycolic acid was employed as a fixation were higher in case of glycolic acid employed
chelating agents exhibited a lower rating for wet rubbing disperse dyed polyester fabric, so overall perspiration fastness
fastness (3-4) as compared to the other chelating agents. In was shown to be “good” to “excellent” (within the numerical
general, using glycolic acid improves the higher color grades 4-5).
strength and produces deep shade, so some dye molecules
get more saturated and tend to move out from the outer Conclusion
surface of fabric due to rubbing.
Color fastness to perspiration (Table 4) of disperse dyed This study clearly shows that the use of different types of
fabrics showed ratings within the range of 4 to 5 in case of chelating agents offers advantageous effect in the dyeing of
color change and color staining on multifibre fabric. Slightly polyester fabric with disperse dyes. In comparative analysis
significant difference in the color fastness to perspiration of it has shown that glycolic acid provided effective chelation
disperse dyed polyester fabrics upon using various chelating efficiency in moderate acid donor. Consequently, glycolic
agents were detected. During measuring the color fastness to acid showed higher percentage of dye bath exhaustions than
acidic perspiration, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, and citric the other organic chelating agents. In addition, the color
acid employed dyed fabric showed staining on nylon and strength (fk) also increased by the use of glycolic acid. For
acetate fiber (numerical rating was 3-4). The results achieving deeper shades, the color difference increased in

Table 4. Color fastness to perspiration (ISO 105-E04:2013)

Perspiration fastness ratings (4 % owf) disperse dyed polyester
Test fabric sample Color Color staining
change Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool
Alkaline 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
Glycolic acid
Acid 4 3-4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
Alkaline 4 4 4-5 3-4 4-5 4-5 4-5
EDTA
Acid 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
Alkaline 4 4 4-5 3-4 4-5 4-5 4-5
Gluconic acid
Acid 4 3-4 4-5 3-4 4-5 4-5 4-5
Alkaline 4 4 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5
Citric acid
Acid 4 3-4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
 Effect of Chelating Agent in Disperse Dye Dyeing on Polyester
case of using glycolic acid as compared to the other organic
agents. Therefore, it would be expected that higher exhaustion
and higher color strength causes unlevel dyeing. Surprisingly,
we observed that the levelness value of glycolic acid showed
the best result among all the chelating agents in discussion.
Slight differences were observed in the color fastness of the
dyed fabrics upon employing various chelating agents. Thus
the findings suggest that natural organic chelating agents
like glycolic acids not only is ecofriendly but also provide
the better dye ability in polyester dyeing with disperse dye.
Acknowledgement
This work was supported by the faculty research fund of
Bangladesh University of Textiles in 2016.
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