Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Clock1
9 2 Front pin 11
20
10 2 cover pin 11
11 3 Securing pin
12 1 Clock dial
13 2 Dial spacer
14 1 Pendulum head 25
36
15 1 Pendulum pivot 25
16 1 Pendulum rod 35 26
17 1 Pendulum bob 28
18 1 Pendulum nut 27
19 6 Shaft cover
20 1 Shaft151
33
21 1 yoke 31
22 1 escape 32
29
23 1 Pallet2
30
24 1 Pallet1
47 35
25 1 Timing 30
26 1 16teeth
27 2 Shaft140
28 2 Sleeve119
29 1 Shaft175
30 2 15teeth_1.5 49
1
31 1 Pawl 38
32 1 Sleeve70 37 28
33 2 15teeth 40
34 1 drum
35 3 60teeth 48 34
36 1 Ratchet 2
37 1 Pawl pin 44 45
38 1 32teeth
39 1 10teeth
40 1 sleeve18 33
12
41 8 ropering 27
42 1 rope 8
43 1 Weight 10
44 1 shaft30
46 35
45 1 8teeth
46 1 30teeth
47 1 Key shaft 3
48 1 Minute hand
4
49 1 Hour hand
9
43
10
10
10
39.75
DIAL NOT SECTIONED 39
15
14 14 B
6
4
16
19
13
16
12
19
B (1 : 2)
13
10
19
17
8
C
3
7
16
10
R62.5
50 60
1 BACK 1-off
SCALE 1:2
20 6 6 6 6 13 R3
664
81 86.7
50 49 42.4 38.6 36.2 51.3 46 40.7 39.3 51.6
R62.5
42 50
4 FRONT 1-off
SCALE 1:2 6.1
20 6 10 6 8 6 6 10 20 8.6
6 55.5 98
502
48 A
57 12 12
50 75 75 12 20
R62.5
6.1
42 50 30
252
R2 A-A (1 : 1)
6 PENDULUM HANGER 1-OFF
A
58
25
23 48
3 15
ANGLED BRACE 1-off
90° 25
13
5
130
20 12 30 13 6 30 13
10 120
20
40 11 SECURING PIN 3-off
13
50 10 COVER PIN 2-off
18 3
30 SQ 7 WALL SPACER 2-off 3
6 TAP M6
300
55
20 210
10
20
2 holes DRILLED FROM
28 THE BACK 6MM DEEP
75
252
40°
1076 20
21.8
30
6.5
120
10
17 PENDULUM BOB 1-off
25
10
3.2
34.5
43.1
R1.6
69
6.1
28.7
18.4
10
8
12.6 46 30TEETH 1-off
N
33 15 TEETH 1-off N-N
R1.6
I
23
78
R1.6 R5
R2.4 6
3.2 73
51.8 10 36.8
13
17.2 67.9
39 10 TEETH 1-off 10
43.1
31
26 16 TEETH 1-off
38 32 TEETH 1-off
I I-I
53
6 142.6
6
Tight fit on shaft
35 60 TEETH 1-OFF
R6
135.7
35 60 TEETH 1-OFF
35 60 TEETH 2-OFF 10
3.2 132.2
R6 258° 1.9
1
23.3
20.3
6
148.1
10
138.4 50
13
36 RATCHET 1-OFF
10
2.2
R25.5
27.53°
7
24.9
O 125°
O-O (1 : 1)
53
PAWL 1-OFF
31
74.3 10 19.5
R7.5
6.1
ESCAPEMENT 1-OFF 6 20 90°
TRUE R3 22 TRUE R3
38 13 13
6
37.1
36.3 R5
21 10
YOKE 1-off
92°
8.6 34 DRUM 1-OFF
19.8
69.17° 6
4.7
175
6.8
44.63°
29 SHAFT 175 1-OFF
151
6
10 6.1
1 70
44 SHAFT 30 1-OFF
32 6.1 10
119.5
13 2
9.5 9.5 8
20
SHT 10 OF 10 SHTS LAW WOODEN CLOCK 1 Shafts and sleeves
9.5
8. Care should be taken to adjust the pallets (23 & 24) relative to the timing
wheel. They should operate to allow the timing wheel to move
incrementally forward when swinging through a small arc of movement of
the pendulum. (<10°).
9. The pitch of the gears is controlled by the drilling of the hole centres in the
front and back frames. It may help to delay the drilling of these holes in
the frames until after the gears are first cut and then linished to size. At
this point it would help to mount them on two separate pieces of wood and
test there free movement one to the other and measure the centre
distance between them, so that the hole centres can be drilled at this
dimension rather than the theoretical dimension on the drawing.
10. The winder used is not drawn on the plans but a simple 'T' bar with a
square hole in the end to engage over the end of the square end of the
shaft holding the winding gears.
11. The profiling of the larger gears is not necessary to the functioning of the
clock, and can be carried out at the discretion of the clock builder. Notes LAW WOODEN CLOCK 1
37
38
45 28 30 22 25
3
SHT 1 OF 8 SHTS LAW WOODEN CLOCK 2 General Assembly 1
34
6 ALL DIMENSIONS IN MM Designed by:
NTS 3rd ANGLE PROJECTION JAN 2001 BRLAW
35 UNTOLERANCED DIMS +/- 0.5 www.woodenclocks.co.uk
4
3
22
22 15
20
24 12
35
36
27 30 22
10
11
Back plate removed for clarity
0
.7
55
12
55
5 75 76.32
6.3 R1
R250
430
81
81
5
6.3
.43
89
90
.43
90
59.20 89
6.35
46.60
86
.60
6.35 76.81
40
23.12
6.35
86
180
.60
95
R20 0 30.38
70 R2
140
140
12.
290
R20
12.7
0 .70
12
35
35
76.32 364
70
76.81
SHT 3 OF 8 SHTS LAW WOODEN CLOCK 2 Frames
290
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MM Designed by:
NTS 3rd ANGLE PROJECTION JAN 2001 BRLAW
350
UNTOLERANCED DIMS +/- 0.5 www.woodenclocks.co.uk
1
120 10 C 21
30 G
6
12.7
0
5 Dial 1-off
.5
0
G
77
30
50 G-G C-C
R1
C
12.70
3 Spacer 1-off
30
A 120
6 Dial spacer 2-off
A A-A
3 Spacer 2-off
48 12
26
90° 3
0
H
.7
2
12
30
1/2" thread
D
13
18
H
35
H-H D D-D
4 Pendulum hanger 1-off
59.20
E 10 12 Shaft cover 7-off
6
.20
46
10 75
55
23.12
180
0
12
30
E
E-E
7 Pendulum head 1-off
Thread M6
59
28
13 Screw 3-off
F
290
20
355
40
8 Pendulum pivot 1-off ° F
30
F-F
30
M6 x 50 deep 6 20
6
1076
11 Pendulum nut 1-off
R370
10 Pendulum bob 1-off
9 Pendulum rod 1-off
6.5
0
42 Minute Hand 1-off
6.
33 Sleeve 28 1-off 10
37
10
19.50
13
6.10
13
27 Drum 1-off 28 Ratchet 1-off SHT 5 OF 8 SHTS LAW WOODEN CLOCK 2 Gears 1
10
10
I
I-I
6 10 36.96
6
0
6.1
20.25
R5
44.27°
10
29 Gear 60 teeth 3-off 6
25 Pawl 2-off
° 23.80
20.83 °
74.30
17 Pallet 2 1-off 8.61
18 Pallet 1 1-off
39.50 39.60
R5
16 Escape 1-off
10
10
70
10
10
6.10
R1
6 .3
5
6
6
26 Sleeve 70 1-off 15 Yoke1-off 20
10
119.50
32
0
6.10
12.7
151
6
40
12.70
185
6
Notes
1/16" D
HP Crutch
B1 Bob
1/8" D
1/8" D centered
Pendulum
3/16" bore through
bottom of bob
2W 5/32" D-11/64" D
NOTE:
The drawings on these pages are half-size reductions
of the full pattern set for the Wooden Gear Clock, and
are to be used as an “at-a-glance” reference when cutting
the various parts of the clock. Do not enlarge these
pages for use as cutting patterns, as the copies may be
distorted or disproportioned during enlargement.
CP
1/8" D 1/8" D
8
Cable 9/64" D 12 Rib
R2 1/16" D
Drum
Rib
Side
view
WA 3/16" D
3/16" D
R1
1/8" D
Hands
1/8" D 1/8" thick
1/8" D EW
Escape wheel
Assembled 1/8" thick
R3 Set
screw leather
1/8"D plug
HH MH SH
1/16" D 5/32" D 1/8"D
1/8" D 3/16" D
Collar
B3
Bob (front) 1/8" thick Collar
End Plugs
1/8" D
1/2" thick
After all three bob pieces are glued together, Collars
cut on dotted line for a clean surface
Counter
weight 3/16" D 5/32" D
3/8" dowel
B2
Bob (back) 1/8" thick 1/8" brass pins
Weight
7" L x 1-1/2" ID
1/8" brass rod
thin wall PVC pipe
B
35
14.50
B-B
14 8
36 10
40
25
7 13
30 31
37
33
37
41
34
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MM Designed by:
Not to Scale 3rd ANGLE PROJECTION JAN 2002 BRLAW
UNTOLERANCED DIMS +/- 0.5 www.woodenclocks.co.uk
405.45
140.92
27 47 81 90 27
43.16
10
12
40
30
4
4
12
4
40
4 4
4
5.55°
8
10
12
44
46
12
12
12
8.81
3
3.82
4
2.68
8
2.3 9°
3°
38
27 Wedge 1-off 33 Small Wedge 2-off
6 44 81.06 60 6
R6
34.70
24.40
30
0
4.5
100
21.78
6
4
4
4.5
12
0
6
.60
R3
4 Bush - brass or nylon 6-off
15
60
0
6
1
70
68.65
12
R4
95.50
4
90.49
86
4.50 6
27
18
3
12 86.64
6
12
3.2
2.91
4.80 0
8
1°
18
3
20
10.50
6
R9 15 Peg 1-off
4
2
R9 . 1
12
16
8
67
31 Hand 1-off
88
B 7.5 6
72
2.2 0°
0
65
12
R7
0
67.5
B 5
B-B
A-A
0
9.5
52
1.5
48
E
0
R1
C C
6
E
E-E
Steel 3°
pin Steel
3.50 pin
13
1.50
6
21
1.50
6
12
20
14
30
60
View on N Brass rod
6
19 7
6 C-C
6 2
54
80
67 .5 0
2.2
0 Gear with 48 teeth 2-off
13
72
7.5
65
0°
9.5
F
0
R7
1.0
6
G G
F-F
6
3°
1.50
12
19
5
8
1.50
19
18.85
13
14
28
12
15.50
16 G-G
2
80
82
8
14
R5
9
3°
77
6.4
10
11 32 4
6 23
7
7.8
30
25
°
6 .96
2
7
R5
59°
14
12
25.
R 3 .5 0
4
R25
R3
1 9 Ratchet 1-off
2 8 .0 5
12
11 Ratchet pin 1-off
.25
80
R 20
20
R 25
1.50
8
12
12
12
J
0
6
1.5
7
45
28
12
6 18
27
J-J
4
J ALL DIMENSIONS IN MM Designed by:
Scale 1:1 UOS JAN 2002
14 Cord pulley 1-off 3rd ANGLE PROJECTION
UNTOLERANCED DIMS +/- 0.5
BRLAW
www.woodenclocks.co.uk
28
20
29 19
6
Verge bush and Foliot to be
fitted to the Hanger before 23
23.50
bending the end of the Hanger
R1
28
R 3.
25
24
29
50
Adjust combine weight to
2
approx 8gms
H H
83
22
4.26
I I
2
10.18
8
1
16
40°
5
6
R1.2
3
I-I 2
21
H-H
R2 0
73 22 Verge 1-off
9 1.50 1.50
5.7
18
20 Hanger 1-off
5.50
20
2
7
12
19 Foliot 1-off
4
8
2. Details of the dial numerals are shown for guidance only, the actual
form of the numerals is left to your own discretion. They can be
applied by painting or as relief numerals cut from thin sheet.
3. The hand is again given for guidance only, although in this instance
it is drawn to size so that you can copy it if you wish. It should in any
event be cut from thin sheet.
4. Where the components are drawn to 1:1 scale you can attach the
drawing to the timber using a low tack adhesive, and cut around the
profiles. Great care should be taken with this approach when cutting
the gear teeth because they need to be cut very accurately to avoid
problems when assembling the clock
5. The frame components i.e. Back, Cross bar, Top and Bottom braces
should be glued together. The front, verge, and Dial should also be
glued.
7. The pitch of the gears is controlled by the drilling of the hole centres
in the front and back frames. It may help to delay the drilling of these
holes in the frames until after the gears are first cut and then
linished to size. At this point it would help to mount them on two
separate pieces of wood and test there free movement one to the
other and measure the centre distance between them, so that the
hole centres can be drilled at this dimension rather than the
theoretical dimension on the drawing.
9. The verge construction has the Hanger formed with a bent end so
as to secure it into the Verge in the correct position, because of this
the Verge bush and the Foilot have to be fitted to the Hanger before
it is bent. An alternative to this is to dispense with the bend
altogether and simply drill a hole in the top of the Verge for the
Hanger to fit in, and then pin the Verge and the Foliot in the correct
positions. Dimensions are given for this on sheet 2. This also saves
having to make and fit the verge in-fill piece.
SHT 10 OF 10 SHTS LAW WOODEN CLOCK 4 Notes
10. The Verge assembly is fitted after the gears have been located on
the back frame. It is fitted by lifting the verge bush and sliding the ALL DIMENSIONS IN MM Designed by:
Scale 1:1 UOS 3rd ANGLE PROJECTION JAN 2002 BRLAW
UNTOLERANCED DIMS +/- 0.5 www.woodenclocks.co.uk
48 48 1 4 8 ITEM NO. QTY. PART NO. DESCRIPTION
14 20 18 16 17
1 1 back
2 1 front
4 1 Pendulum hanger
7 6 4 Dial spacer
7 1 Pendulum head
8 1 Pendulum pivot
9 1 Pendulum rod
10 1 Pendulum bob
11 1 Pendulum nut
2
12 7 Shaft cover
9
13 5 Screw
13 14 1 Shaft151
15 1 yoke
16 1 escape
15
17 1 Pallet2
12
18 1 Pallet1
19 1 Yoke spacer
29 21 22 23 20 1 Timing
48 21 3 Shaft140
13
22 3 Sleeve119
23 1 16teeth
24 1 Shaft175
6 25 2 Pawl
26 21 40 22 12 26 1 Sleeve70
27 1 drum
28 1 Ratchet
43
29 3 60teeth
20
30 2 Pawl pin
31 1 32teeth
32 1 10teeth
31 29 33 1 sleeve18
34 1 rope
35 1 Weight
36 1 16teeth_DP6
42 40 37 1 shaft30
38 1 8teeth
39 1 30teeth
46 40 2 15teeth
41 1 Key shaft
42 1 Minute hand
32
43 1 Hour hand
44 1 12teeth_DP6
39 45 1 Winder support
46 1 DiaL2
47 8 ropering
6
48 5 Spacer
12
13 28 21 22
6 48 30 25 29 48
34
SHT 1 OF 9 SHTS LAW WOODEN CLOCK 5 General Assembly 1
13
35
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MM Designed by:
NTS 3rd ANGLE PROJECTION FEB 2002 BRLAW
UNTOLERANCED DIMS +/- 0.5 www.woodenclocks.co.uk
17 19 18 36 45 44
15
31
35
12 38
39
10
C-C (1 : 1.5)
.70
12
55
55
5 76.32
6.3
60
81
123.79
156
.70
81
12
123.79
156
.43
89
93.28
5
6.3
90
.43
90
59.20 89
6.35
46.60
60
476
6.35
40
23.12 86.
60
6.35
76.81
109.60
398
86.
180
60
95
R2
0
30.38
70
12.
R20
219.20
32.44
32.44
270
76.32
70
76.81
SHT 4 OF 9 SHTS LAW WOODEN CLOCK 5 Frames
270
30 G
4
35
G
30
46 Dial 1-off 50 C-C
G-G
C
12.70
48 Spacer 1-off
26
6 30
A 120
6 Dial spacer 4-off
A A-A
48 Spacer 4-off
48 12
90° 3
H
2
0
30
1/2" thread
D
18
H
35
H-H D D-D
4 Pendulum hanger 1-off
E 10 12 Shaft cover 7-off
6
10 75
55
0
12
30
E
E-E
7 Pendulum head 1-off
Thread M6
59
28
13 Screw 5-off
F
20
40
Pendulum pivot 1-off ° F
30
F-F
30
M6 x 50 deep 6 20
6
1076
11 Pendulum nut 1-off
R370
10 Pendulum bob 1-off
9 Pendulum rod 1-off
6.5
0
42
Minute Hand 1-off
SHT 5 OF 9 SHTS LAW WOODEN CLOCK 5 Frame details
6.
33 Sleeve 28 1-off 10
37
6
10
19.50
13
6.10
13
27 Drum 1-off 28 Ratchet 1-off SHT 6 OF 9 SHTS LAW WOODEN CLOCK 5 Gears 1
10
10
I
I-I
6
6
10 36.96
0
6.1
20.25
R5
44.27°
10
29 Gear 60 teeth 3-off 6
25 Pawl 2-off
° 23.80
20.83 °
74.30
17 Pallet 2 1-off 8.61
18 Pallet 1 1-off
39.50 39.60
R5
16 Escape 1-off
10
10
70
10
10
6.10
R
16
.3
5
6
6
Sleeve 70 1-off 19 Yoke spacer 1-off
26 15 Yoke1-off 20
10
119.50
32
0
6.10
12.7
151
6
40
12.70
175
6
Notes
1) The escapement combines the pallet design of the traditional Graham deadbeat escapement used
on most good quality grandfather clocks with the pinwheel of the traditional pinwheel escapement.
This modified Graham escapement is easier to build than a traditional pinwheel escapement, and the
pins are less susceptible to wear and damage than sharp pointed wooden teeth which would be
required for a traditional Graham escape wheel.
2) The escape wheel only has fifteen pins causing it to rotate one revolution every 30 beats rather than
one revolution every 60 beats as do the escape wheels in most traditional clocks. The fifteen pin
design was selected because it allows the use of larger pallets without forcing escape wheel diameter
and inertia to be large.
3) The clock’s power gear train has an extra gear to keep gear diameter and inertia small while allowing
the use of the faster escape wheel.
4) The clicks on the first arbor are engaged by gravity rather than by springs as in most clocks.
5) There is no maintaining spring on the first arbor to keep the clock running while it is being wound.
Because of the exposed gearing it is possible to keep the gear train loaded during winding without
using a spring. See the winding procedure in the installation instructions.
This package is made up of three sections which cover the fabrication, assembly and installation of the clock.
Also included is a complete set of full scale patterns to be used for laying out and fabricating the more intricate
parts. Each section includes a set of detailed instructions and suggestions aimed to make building the clock
easy even for someone with no previous experience with clocks.
Anyone interested in more information on clocks in general can learn much by searching the internet. Specific
questions about this clock can be addressed by emailing John Randle at woodclocks@charter.net.
WC5
PARTS FABRICATION
AUTHOR: J. RANDLE
Clock WC5 was designed to be fabricated with as few shop tools as possible. Excluding the wall shelf, the
prototype for this clock was built with the following tools:
o A basic scroll saw with fine tooth blades and an assortment of scroll sanders.
o A drill press with a set of basic twist drills and a set of Forsner bits.
o A turning lathe (useful for grooving rope pulleys but not absolutely necessary)
The wall shelf was designed to be fabricated with the tools available in the shop where the prototype was built.
Its design can be altered by the builder to use whatever tools are available.
Some of the drawings in this section contain all of the dimensions necessary to lay out the subject part. Others,
such as the wheel drawings, contain only basic dimensions. It is intended that the under-dimensioned parts be
fabricated using cutting patterns as laying them out accurately would be very difficult. Where noted the
drawings can be used as cutting patterns if they are printed to scale.
Listed below are notes and suggestions pertaining to the fabrication of some of the parts:
ARBOR SHAFTS The wooden arbor shafts are all designed to be made from good quality dowel stock.
Centering the holes in the ends of the shafts is important. A lathe with a headstock chuck and a tailstock drill
chuck would be handy here. Otherwise, you can make a clamp block similar to the one shown below.
Carefully align the hole in the block with your drill press chuck, clamp the block in place, and use it as a holder
for drilling the shaft end holes.
PINS The pins are all cut from brass rod. 360 H02 brass is soft and can be easily cut with a hacksaw then finish
sanded to length on a disc sander. Drilling a hole to a known depth in the end of a wooden dowel rod then
using the rod as a holder for sanding the short pins works well and saves fingers. The ends of the pins can be
chamfered while in the holder by holding them against a running sanding belt and spinning them between
your fingers. The actual size and angle of the chamfer isn’t critical. A typical holder with pin inserted is shown
here. A holder will be needed for each pin diameter.
ROPE SHEAVES All of the rope sheaves are designed to be sawn from single pieces of 12mm (15/32”) thick
baltic birch plywood and grooved on a lathe faceplate. If no lathe is available the sheaves can be made by
cutting three pieces of 3mm (1/8”) thick plywood to the proper diameter then gluing them together. The
grooves won’t be tapered but the pulleys should work okay. Of course they will be only 9mm thick making it
necessary to shim them with washers at assembly.
2
DIAL A simple way to make the dial shown is:
1. Apply the full size adhesive backed pattern sections to plywood stock making sure the sections line up
properly at the pattern match lines.
2. Use an xacto knife to carefully cut away the pattern at the numbers and minute marks. Be careful to
not cut into the plywood.
3. Spray the cut out pattern with a good wood sealer. This is important to keep the number paint from
soaking into the plywood causing the edges of the numbers to be blurred.
4. Spray the numbers with a good gloss paint of your color choice. Several thin coats will be necessary
to hide the wood grain.
6. Drill and countersink the screw holes. The screw centers are marked on the pattern.
FRAME POSTS The holes in these posts are to be drilled and tapped with the same taps used for tapping screw
holes in metal. Tapping holes in hardwood will provide a strong connection as long as you use coarse thread
taps. The necessary tap drills and taps can be bought at a number of places including your local building
supply.
PENDULUM SUPPORT BRIDGE The upper end of the pendulum suspension spring (pin end) must fit snugly into the
slots in this part but not so snug that the spring can’t rotate on its pin. Fit of this part should be checked and
adjusted as necessary during fabrication.
WHEELS If you look at the drawings closely you will note that the gear teeth on the wheels in the time train of
this clock (winding drum to escapement) have an epicycloidal profile on one face and are straight on the
other face. The epicycloidal (front) face is the working face and must be cut accurately. The back face does
not touch anything and is simply cut away for clearance. Cutting away the unused back face makes the
teeth simpler to cut and provides more clearance to compensate for small errors in tooth layout. Because of
the difference in the profile of the front and back faces, the gear teeth must be oriented as shown if the clock
is to run properly.
The wheels not in the time train i.e. WHEEL T-HR, WHEEL T-INT & WHEEL T-6 have epicycloidal faces on both sides
of their teeth. The reason is that these wheels run slack (no load), and backlash here will cause the hour hand
and second hand to be loose.
All of the wheels are drawn as single parts but are actually composites of several pieces of plywood glued
together. The recommended procedure for making WHEEL T-1 is:
1. Apply the furnished wheel pattern to a piece of plywood of the proper thickness.
2. Drill the center hole with a Forsner bit. A Forsner bit creates a cleaner hole than a twist drill would
create. The hole center is clearly marked on the pattern.
3. Cut out the gear blank along its outside diameter. Do not try to cut the teeth yet.
5. Use an xacto knife to carefully cut away the pattern along the profile of each gear tooth. This step
may look useless, but if it is skipped all of the drilling, sawing, and sanding around the teeth will cause
the pattern to come loose making it difficult to properly finish the part.
6. Carefully drill a hole at the root of each tooth. You will have to use a twist drill here because Forsner
bits that small aren’t available. Accurate location is important here.
3
7. Drill the five pin holes at the location shown.
9. Use scroll sanders to shape the teeth to the pattern. Don’t quit sanding too soon. Clearance
between the gear teeth and the pinion pins is critical.
10. When finished with the teeth, use an xacto knife to carefully make a cut through the pattern around
the outside circle shown on the pattern.
12. Lay the wheel aside and cut a ring from another piece of plywood. The ring dimensions are shown on
the drawing.
13. Glue the ring to the wheel using the outer portion of the pattern as a guide.
15. Saw out circular pieces of plywood which can be stacked together to provide a thickness equal to
the length of the wheel hub. The diameter of the pieces should be slightly larger than the diameter of
the hub.
16. With a Forsner bit drill a hole in the center of each circular piece. The hole should be the same
diameter as the hole in the center of the wheel.
17. Sand the pieces to the finished diameter of the wheel hub. This can easily be done on a belt/disc
sander by making a jig as shown here; inserting the disc on the jig pin and slowly rotating it as the
sander cuts it to size.
18. Glue the hub pieces to the wheel. An excellent way to do this is to drill a hole the same size as the
wheel center hole in one jaw of a wooden parallel clamp; insert a piece of dowel rod into the hole
from the back; stack the parts to be glued on the rod; close the parallel clamp; and then remove the
dowel rod. A typical gluing setup is shown here:
19. When the glue is dry, remove the wheel from the clamp, clean up any drips, and spray the entire
wheel with a coat of wood sealer.
20. When the sealer is dry, lightly sand the working faces of the gear teeth to remove the wood sealer
from them. A clock will not run if sealer or any other finish is allowed to build up on its gear teeth.
ANCHOR The shape of the pallets (the tips of the anchor) is arguably the most important feature in the clock.
The pallet angles affect the amount of force applied to the pendulum to keep it swinging. Be especially
careful to cut them to the proper angle and sand them smooth. Only round the tips enough to remove any
burrs. Do not leave any wood sealer on the pallet faces. In fact, putting a single drop of good quality clock oil
on each pallet face and allowing it to soak into the wood is a good idea.
PENDULUM BOB SHELL The shell of the pendulum bob was designed to be cut as two pieces for convenience.
You can glue both patterns to the same piece of wood and cut it as a single piece if you like.
PENDULUM BOB SHELL COVERS It is a good idea to cut both shell covers slightly oversize, then sand them to fit
the shell after the pendulum bob is assembled.
WEIGHT SHELL TOPS The tops of the weight shells were designed as a composite of several pieces. Since
thicknesses of plywood can vary slightly, it is a good idea to cut the outside pieces of the composite a bit wider
than shown. This will allow you to trim the assembled part to the correct width after gluing. When trimming, be
sure to keep the part symmetrical about its center line.
Since the top of the small weight shell is made up of only three pieces, and since the gap between the outer
pieces needs to be held to the dimension shown, its overall width may vary slightly. You may need to adjust the
width of the shell front and back panels and the width of the shell bottom slightly to compensate.
WEIGHT SHELL FRONT & BACK PANELS It is a good idea to cut the weight shell front and back panels slightly
wider than shown, then to sand them to fit the side panels after gluing.
Fabrication of the parts not mentioned above should be obvious from studying the drawings and the notes and
suggestions above. If you have questions about any of them feel free to contact the designer at
woodclocks@charter.net for answers.
WC5 CONSOLIDATED PARTS LIST
ITEM PART NO. DESCRIPTION MATERIAL QTY. SOURCE
1 BLOCK 1/2" W X 3/4" H X 2 5/32" LG OAK 2 FABRICATE
2 CURVED DISC SPRING MC # 9716K52 301 STAINLESS STEEL 1 MCMASTER-CARR
3 DOWEL PIN 0.0625 DIA X 1/2" LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
4 FLANGED BEARING MC # 6294K86, 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD x 1/4" LG MDS-FILLED NYLON 20 MCMASTER-CARR
5 FLANGED BEARING MC # 6294K89, 3/8" ID X 1/2" OD X 3/8" LG MDS-FILLED NYLON 2 MCMASTER-CARR
6 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD #10 NOM BRASS 15 LOCAL HDWR
7 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD 3/8 NOM BRASS 3 LOCAL HDWR
8 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD #4 NOM BRASS 2 LOCAL HDWR
9 LEAD FILL MC # 9030K34 #8 LEAD SHOT (9 LBS) 1 MCMASTER-CARR
10 MACHINE SCREW HEX NUT #8-32UNC BRASS 4 LOCAL HDWR
11 MACHINE SCREW HEX NUT #4-40 UNC BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
12 OVAL HD MACHINE SCREW #8-32 UNC x 1 1/8" LG BRASS 4 LOCAL HDWR
13 PENDULUM ROD 1/2" DIA X 31" LG OAK 1 FABRICATE
14 PLUG 3/4" DIA [COMPRESSED] x 1/2" LG CORK 2
15 ROPE 1/8" DIA X 10'-6" LG (BRAIDED) NYLON 1 LOCAL HDWR
16 ROUND HD MACHINE SCREW #10-24 UNC x 1" LG BRASS 8 LOCAL HDWR
17 ROUND HD MACHINE SCREW #4-40 UNC x 5/8" LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
18 SPLIT PIN M2 x 12 MM LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
19 SPLIT PIN M2 x 22 MM LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
20 SPRING PIN (SLOTTED) 5/64 DIA X 3/4" LG STAINLESS STEEL 4 MCMASTER-CARR
21 SPRING PIN (SLOTTED) 5/64" DIA X 3/8" LG STAINLESS STEEL 6 MCMASTER-CARR
22 SUSPENSION SPRING NORKRO # SS-41 1 NORKRO
23 THREADED ROD #10-24UNC X 1 3/4" LG STEEL 4 LOCAL HDWR
24 THUMB NUT #10-32UNF BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
25 WC5-00-01 SHAFT OAK 4 FABRICATE
26 WC5-00-02-A PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
27 WC5-00-02-B PIN 360 H02 BRASS 12 FABRICATE
28 WC5-00-02-C PIN 360 H02 BRASS 7 FABRICATE
29 WC5-00-02-D PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
30 WC5-00-02-E PIN 360 H02 BRASS 18 FABRICATE
31 WC5-00-02-F PIN 360 H02 BRASS 11 FABRICATE
32 WC5-00-02-G PIN 360 H02 BRASS 12 FABRICATE
33 WC5-00-02-H PIN 360 H02 BRASS 5 FABRICATE
34 WC5-00-02-J PIN 360 H02 BRASS 20 FABRICATE
35 WC5-00-02-K PIN 360 H02 BRASS 3 FABRICATE
36 WC5-00-02-L PIN 360 H02 BRASS 15 FABRICATE
37 WC5-00-03 ROPE SHEAVE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
38 WC5-00-04 SHAFT 360 H02 BRASS 2 FABRICATE
39 WC5-01-01 SHELF OAK 1 FABRICATE
40 WC5-01-02 BACK PLATE OAK 1 FABRICATE
41 WC5-01-03 BRACE OAK 2 FABRICATE
42 WC5-02-01 FRAME PLATE, REAR BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
43 WC5-02-02 FRAME PLATE, MIDDLE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
44 WC5-02-03 FRAME PLATE, FRONT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
45 WC5-02-04 DIAL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
46 WC5-02-05 FRAME POST OAK 8 FABRICATE
47 WC5-02-06 DIAL POST OAK 4 FABRICATE
48 WC5-02-07 PENDULUM SUPPORT BRIDGE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
49 WC5-02-08 PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
50 WC5-03-01 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
51 WC5-03-02 PIVOT 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
52 WC5-03-03-01 CLICK BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 5 FABRICATE
WC5 CONSOLIDATED PARTS LIST
ITEM PART NO. DESCRIPTION MATERIAL QTY. SOURCE
53 WC5-03-04 ROPE PULLEY BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
54 WC5-03-05 ROPE PIN STAINLESS STEEL 8 FABRICATE
55 WC5-04-01 SHAFT OAK 1 FABRICATE
56 WC5-04-02 PIVOT (BACK) 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
57 WC5-04-03 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
58 WC5-05-01 PIVOT (FRONT) 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
59 WC5-05-02 DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
60 WC5-05-03 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
61 WC5-05-04 HAND (MINUTE) BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
62 WC5-05-05 HAND (HOUR) BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
63 WC5-06-01 DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
64 WC5-06-02 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
65 WC5-07-01 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
66 WC5-08-01 ESCAPE WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
67 WC5-09-01 PIVOT 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
68 WC5-09-02 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
69 WC5-09-03 SECOND DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
70 WC5-10-01 PIVOT 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
71 WC5-10-02 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
72 WC5-11-01 ANCHOR BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
73 WC5-11-02 IMPULSE LEVER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
74 WC5-12-01 LEADER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
75 WC5-12-02 BOB GUIDE OAK 1 FABRICATE
76 WC5-12-03 ADJUSTING ROD 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
77 WC5-12-04-01 SHELL HALF BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
78 WC5-12-04-02 SHELL COVER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
79 WC5-13-01 SHELL TOP BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
80 WC5-13-02-A FRONT/BACK PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
81 WC5-13-02-B SIDE PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
82 WC5-13-03 SHELL BOTTOM BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
83 WC5-14-01 SHELL TOP BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
84 WC5-14-02-A FRONT/BACK PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
85 WC5-14-02-B SIDE PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
86 WC5-14-03 SHELL BOTTOM BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
A 3/8"
"A" "B"
"C" TYP
15°
A
1 7/8"
R1/16"
1 3/8"
3/8"
A
SECTION A-A
1 3/8"
5/64" 1 7/32"
3/16"
4"
1 7/8"
1 1/4"
6 1/4"
2 15/16"
R1/4" TYP
2X 1/2" THRU
2X 3/16" THRU
1 1/2" 2 7/8" 1 1/2"
1/2"
R3"
R1/8" TYP
4"
1 3/4"
18"
R26 13/64"
15 3/8"
23 1/4"
1/2" 1/2"
R3/4"
3 3/4"
9" 3/16"
1 3/4"
R3/4"
10 3/8"
R1 1/2"
4"
R3"
R1/2"
3 3/4"
5"
R3/4"
2 7/8"
3 1/2"
R1 7/8"
R1"
2 7/8"
4 1/4"
6
12 15/64"
15/32" 3/16"
1" TYP
4X 13/64" THRU
7/8"
R45 61/64"
R45 61/64"
1"
11 7/32"
7 1/4"
5/8"
2 15/32"
R1/4" TYP
R4" 1 1/2"
R1/2"
7"
2 59/64"
2 19/64"
REF
2 1/4"
REF
5X 5/16" THRU
2 5/8"
REF
9 27/32"
7 27/32"
7 5/8"
3 1/8"
2 1/8"
1/2" THRU
5/16" THRU
1/8" 3/4"
1 3/8"
5/64"
THRU ALL
3/16" THRU
SECTION A-A A A
3/4"
2 1/2"
6
7" B.C. 15/64"
4X 11/64" THRU
EQUALLY SPACED
ON BOLT CIRCLE
45°
1/16" 1/8" 3
3/16" 1/8"
1/2"
3/4"
9/64"
TYP
9 1/2"
6 1/2"
7" B.C.
45°
30° TYP
5/8"
A
2X 5/32" 1"
10-24 UNC 7/8"
SECTION A-A
5/8"
1/2"
11/64" THRU
15/32"
1/32"
2 5/8" REF
1 1/8"
1/32"
3/8"
3/16" 1/4"
6 6
2 5/32"
15/64" 15/64"
1/16"
R1/16"
13/16"
1/64" X 45°
5/32"
1/4"
17.60
11/16"
6
15/64"
6
15/64"
5X 1/8" THRU
EQUALLY SPACED ON B.C.
3 13/16"
5"
4 1/4"
3 1/4" B.C. 3/16"
38 TEETH
3/8" THRU
43/64"
3/8"
1/64" X 45°
3/32" THRU ALL
A A
6
15/64"
9/64" THRU
1/8"
1/8"
1/8"
1/8"
1/4"
DETAIL A 12
15/32"
SCALE 2 : 1
3
1/8"
6 6
15/64" 15/64"
3/8" THRU
REAM FOR FREE
FIT ON PIVOT
B
A
3/4"
4 1/4"
3 1/8"
3 1/8"
45° TYP
2 3/4"
32°
SECTION B-B
2 7/16"
4 1/4"
1 25/32"
19/32"
15/32"
1/16"
5/64" THRU
1/32" X 45° TYP
1 9/32"
2 1/32"
1/4"
3/16"
2 3/16"
2 1/64"
1 3/32"
3/8"
3/16"
R1/8"
1" 3/8"
1"
2"
GLUE LINES
4 43/64"
A
SECTION A-A
THIS DRAWING VIEW CAN BE USED AS A CUTTING
PATTERN WHEN PRINTED TO SCALE. TO VERIFY THAT
THE PRINTOUT IS TO SCALE CHECK THE DIMENSIONS
OF THE BOX IN THE TITLE BLOCK.
6
15/64"
1 1/2"
1/8"
3/16" THRU
3/4"
9
23/64"
9X 1/8" THRU
1"
3/4" H.C.
3/8" THRU
R1/8"
3/4"
5/16"
4 11/64"
4 7/16"
3 3/16"
5/16" THRU
3/4"
R1/8"
1"
3/8"
3 59/64"
9X 1/8" THRU
R1/8"
1"
3 53/64"
3/8" THRU
15 X 3/32" THRU
EQUALLY SPACED ON H.C.
1 3/16"
11 X 1/8" THRU
EQUALLY SPACED ON H.C.
2 5/8"
3/8" THRU
17/64" 1 5/16"
3/16"
1"
1 9/64"
5/64"
2"
3/4"
3/16" THRU
1/8"
1"
3/4"
3/8"
2 1/4"
3/16"
12 X 1/8" THRU
R1/8"
1 1/4"
3 59/64"
5/16" THRU
1/8" TYP
3/8"
1 1/2"
1/8"
2"
GLUE LINE
45°
5 1/2"
1/8" THRU
3/8"
6
15/64"
9/16"
1 1/2"
45° TYP
GLUE LINES
3/16" TYP
5 1/2"
9"
1/8"
1"
1/4"
R1/2" TYP
30° TYP
1 3/4"
1 1/2"
1 1/8"
1/2"
1 1/2"
3 3/4"
1/2"
11/16"
3/4"
1/8"
3 1/2"
2 1/2"
#10-32 UNF
R3 39/64" R1 1/2"
REF
4 1/4"
R3 39/64"
REF
6 6
15/64" 15/64"
15/32" 15/32"
REF REF
R3/8" 3/16"
7/8"
1 15/32"
12
15/32"
GLUE LINE
TYP
2" 2"
"A" 3
1/8"
2"
2"
12
15/32"
3/4" THRU
1 1/16"
1 1/16"
12
15/32"
6 6
15/64" 15/64"
R3/8"
3/16"
7/8"
1 15/32"
12
15/32"
GLUE LINE
TYP
1 1/16" 1 1/16"
"A" 3
1/8"
Tools you will need for assembling the clock will be the tools you had available for parts fabrication plus an
assortment of screwdrivers, a pair of needle nose pliers, a small hammer, and an assortment of small wood
clamps. A small vise would also be useful.
o A small can of glossy spray paint (for the dial numbers and hands).
o A small can of semi gloss polyurethane or preferred wood finish (for the wall shelf).
For design and drawing purposes this clock was organized as a master assembly which contains a number of
subassemblies. Drawing WC5, the master assembly drawing, lists all of the subassemblies and shows their
relationships to each other. Where practical, traditional clock terminology was used to describe the parts, i.e.
gear assemblies are referred to as arbors, gears as wheels, shaft bearing surfaces as pivots, ratchets pawls as
clicks, etc.
Assembly of WC5, B/M items 3 thru 11 must be completed prior to completing the assembly of the Frame & Dial
Assembly, B/M Item 2. Notes and suggestions pertaining to the individual subassemblies are listed below.
Numbers shown in parentheses are subassembly item numbers:
WC5-03 – ARBOR T-1 ASSEMBLY Arbor T-1 has a ratchet (click) assembly built into it which allows you to wind
the clock by pulling down on the drive rope on the counterweight side of the arbor. To assemble:
o Insert the five click pivot pins (1) into wheel T-1(2). The pins should fit snuggly in place without any glue.
If not, a drop of Gorilla glue will lock them in place.
o Insert the center shaft (3) into wheel T-1 (2); align the cross holes in the shaft and the wheel; then insert
a spring pin (7). The spring pin will positively lock the shaft in the wheel to keep it from working out as
the wheel rotates under the load of the clock drive weight.
o Insert eight rope pins (6) into the rope pulley (5). A drop of Gorilla glue in each hole is recommended.
When installed properly, the tapered tips of the pins should stick out of the holes only about 3/32”.
o Assemble the five click assemblies (4) as noted below and install them making certain they are
oriented as shown on the drawing. They must rotate freely on the click pivot pins (1).
o Turn the arbor assembly so that wheel T-1 is horizontal (ring up) and push all of the clicks out against the
ring.
o Slip the rope pulley (5) onto the arbor shaft so that the click wheel on the pulley is inside the circle of
clicks.
o Hold the assembly with wheel T-1 vertical and the rope pulley to the front. Attempt to rotate the rope
pulley. It should rotate freely in the clockwise direction and lock when rotated counterclockwise.
Rotate the assembly and test it in several positions to make sure that at least one click will drop into the
click wheel at any wheel position.
Congratulations, your first arbor is now complete and ready for installation into the main clock assembly.
2
WC5-03-03 – CLICK ASSEMBLY The five click assemblies are part of the Arbor T-1 assembly. They are weighted
to ensure that they will drop by gravity to engage the click wheel as Arbor T-1 rotates.
o Insert the five weight pins (2), into the five wooden clicks (1). If the pins do not fit snugly in the holes, put
a drop of Gorilla glue in each hole prior to inserting the pin. The glue will expand as it cures to lock the
pins in place.
WC5-04 – ARBOR T-2 (MIN) ASSEMBLY Arbor T-2 is equipped with a slip clutch which allows the minute shaft to
turn inside the wheel while the wheel is restrained by the gear train. This allows you to set the clock by pushing
the minute hand.
o Insert the twelve pinion pins (1) into the holes in wheel T-2 (4). Use Gorilla glue as necessary to secure
the pins in place.
o Test the fit of the shaft (2) in the center hole of wheel T-2 (4). The shaft should be sanded as necessary
for it to turn freely in the wheel.
o Remove the shaft and insert the back pivot (3) into the end of the shaft. This pivot must go into the end
of the shaft with the shallow hole (the shaft end holes are drilled to different depths).
o Align the cross holes in the shaft and the pivot and insert the first spring pin (7). The pin should be
centered in the shaft with its slot turned toward the end of the shaft.
o Stack three washers (6), one spring (5), and the wheel (4) on the shaft in the order shown on the
drawing.
o Compress the spring and install the second spring pin (7) thru the shaft. Make sure the slot in the pin is
turned away from the washer.
o Test the rotation of the center shaft in the wheel. It should rotate smoothly with a small amount of
resistance. All of the resistance that is needed here is enough to ensure that the hands move with the
wheel during normal operation of the clock. Too much resistance will make setting the clock difficult.
o Locate the cotter pin (8) to be inserted in the remaining shaft cross hole, but do not install it yet. This
pin is to be installed at final assembly after the front pivot of the hand assembly is inserted into the
minute arbor shaft.
WC5-05 – HAND ASSEMBLY The hand assembly is a continuation of the Arbor T-2 assembly. The minute hand is
mounted directly to the outer end of the arbor T-2 front pivot and rotates once per hour along with the arbor T-
2 shaft. Also mounted on the pivot is a pinion which drives through the motion works to turn the hour hand
once every 12 hours. The hour hand is glued to the motion works output gear and both together turn freely on
the front pivot restricted only by the motion works gear train.
o Insert the front pivot (3) thru the center hole of the pinion disc (4).
o Align the cross holes in the disc and pivot and install pin (2).
o Insert the fifteen pinion pins (1) into the pinion disc (4). Use Gorilla glue to secure any loose pins.
o Glue the hour hand (7) to the hub of the hour wheel (5).
o Modify two flanged bearings (8) to the length shown in the bill of materials and insert them into each
end of the hour gear/hour hand center hole.
o Ream the bearings as required for them to turn freely on the front pivot.
o Slide the hour hand with its attached wheel onto the front pivot.
3
o Slide the minute hand (6) onto the end of the front pivot with its hub turned out; align the cross holes;
and install pin (2). Use Gorilla glue as necessary to keep pin (2) in place. When installed properly the
minute hand will be locked solidly on the front pivot. A little play in this joint won’t affect the operation
of the clock but could make it difficult to set accurately.
WC5-06 – ARBOR T-3 ASSEMBLY Arbor T-3 consists of a wheel and a separate pinion glued to a common shaft
all turning as a unit.
o Insert the nine pinion pins (3) into the holes in the pinion disc (4). Glue as required.
o Mark the position of the pinion disc (4) and the wheel (5) on the shaft (1).
o Cut two small grooves around the surface of the shaft where they will be covered by the disc and the
wheel. This can be done by rotating the shaft against a running scroll saw blade. The grooves don’t
have to be precise.
o Spread Gorilla glue in the grooves and install the wheel and the pinion. When the glue cures it will
expand to lock them to the shaft.
o Insert the pivots (2) into the ends of the shaft. Glue as required.
WC5-07 – ARBOR T-4 ASSEMBLY Arbor T-4 is similar to arbor T-3 except that the pinion pins fit directly into the
wheel hub.
o Install the nine pinion pins (3) in the holes in the wheel (4).
WC5-08 – ARBOR T-5 (ESC) ASSEMBLY Arbor T-5 is the same as the other arbors except it has an outer circle of
pins instead of gear teeth.
o Install the eleven pinion pins (3) into the inner circle of holes in the wheel (5).
o Turn the wheel over, support it on blocks, and install the 15 escapement pins (4) into the outer circle of
holes.
o Insert the pivot (2) into the center hole of the second disc (4).
o Line up the cross holes in the disc and the pivot and install pin (1). Use glue as necessary to keep the
pin in place.
o Locate wheel T-6 (3) and the cotter pin (5), but do not install them until arbor T-6 is installed into the
front plate of the clock’s frame assembly.
4
WC5-10 – ARBOR T-INT ASSEMBLY This arbor is the intermediate gear of the motion works which drives the hour
hand from the minute hand. This wheel must turn freely on its stationary pivot. It is to be driven by the pinion in
the hand assembly and drives the hour gear attached to the hour hand.
o Insert the 12 pinion pins (1) into the circle of holes in the wheel (3). Make sure the wheel hub is on the
same side as the protruding pins.
o Modify two flanged bearings (4) to the length shown in the Bill of Materials and insert them into each
end of the wheel center hole.
o Ream the bearings as required for them to turn freely on the pivot (2).
o Insert a spring pin (6) into the front cross hole of the pivot (1). The front cross hole is the one nearest the
end of the pivot.
o Slide a washer (5) onto the pivot, then insert it into the wheel center hole.
o Provide additional washers as required to shim between the wheel and the clock frame at final
assembly.
WC5-11 – ANCHOR ASSEMBLY The anchor assembly is really two assemblies which come together at final
assembly.
Anchor assembly:
o Insert the back pivot (2) into one end of the shaft (1).
o Drill a 5/64” diameter cross hole thru the shaft and the pivot, and drive a spring pin (7) into the hole.
See the assembly drawing for the cross hole location. Locking the back pivot firmly into the shaft is
important. Any looseness here will impede the ability if the anchor assembly to transfer force impulses
from the gear train to the pendulum.
o Insert the impulse pin (4) into the hole at the bottom of the impulse lever (6). Glue as necessary.
o Insert the clamping screw (9), washers (8), and hex nut (10) into the top of the impulse lever. Leave
loose until the impulse lever is installed on the back pivot at final assembly.
WC5-12 – PENDULUM ASSEMBLY A pendulum is simply a mass hanging some distance below a supporting point,
oscillating back and forth. The frequency of oscillation is determined by the distance between the center of
mass and the support point. The pendulum has a length adjustment built into it to allow changing its frequency
and thus the speed of the clock.
Since the pendulum frequency is sensitive to length, it is important that the pendulum rod be protected from
environmental factors such as temperature and humidity which will change its length.
o Glue the pendulum leader (1) to the top of the pendulum rod (5).
5
o Glue the bob guide (2) to the bottom end of the pendulum rod. Make sure its faces are parallel to the
faces of the leader. Note that the guide is wider than it is deep and that its 5/64” diameter cross pin
hole in the bob guide runs side to side.
To make sure that all of the components of the pendulum rod line up correctly, it is a good idea to clamp the
leader and the bob guide to a flat board or your workbench while the glue cures.
o When the glue has cured, clean up any drips and spray the rod assembly with several coats of wood
sealer to keep out moisture.
o After the pendulum rod is sealed against moisture, insert the adjusting rod (3) into the hole in the
bottom of the bob guide, align the cross hole in the rods end with the cross hole in the bob guide, and
install a spring pin (7). Make sure that the pin does not protrude out of the guide on either side.
o Modify the purchased suspension spring (6) as shown on the drawing and slip it into the slot at the top
of the pendulum leader.
o Install dowel pin (8) to hold the suspension spring in place. This pin should be loose enough to slide
easily into and out of its hole and should not be glued in place. It will have to be removed to connect
the pendulum to the pendulum support bridge at final assembly and to replace the suspension spring if
it ever gets damaged or breaks.
o Assemble the bob as noted below and slip it onto the adjusting rod and bob guide. Hold it in place
with a washer (9) and the speed adjusting thumb nut (10).
o Adjust the length of the pendulum as shown on the drawing. The dimension shown is for startup only.
The pendulum’s length will have to be adjusted to set the clock to correct speed after startup.
WC5-12-04 – BOB ASSEMBLY The pendulum bob is designed to add mass to the pendulum assembly while
minimizing the drag created as the pendulum swings through the air. Variances in bob weight can be
compensated for by simply changing the pendulum length. However drag must be compensated for by
changing the amount of weight driving the clock. The bob needs to be heavy enough to make the pendulum
insensitive to disturbances such as air movement in the room but not so heavy as to take a large impulse force
to accelerate the pendulum each time the clock ticks. For this clock a bob weighing 1.5 pounds works well.
o Glue the halves of the bob body (1) to one of the cover plates (2). Make sure the width of the center
slot is the same from top to bottom. A temporary spacer cut to the width of the slot will help.
o Fill the two cavities in the body with enough #8 lead shot to bring the total weight of the assembled
bob to 1.5 pounds. Distribute the shot equally between the bob cavities.
o Sand the edges of the cover plates to fit the contour of the body.
o Drill the adjusting rod hole in the bottom of the bob as shown on the drawing.
o Spray the bob with wood sealer and decorate it as you like.
WC5-13 – DRIVE WEIGHT ASSEMBLY The drive weight is the power source for this clock. The amount of weight
required to keep the clock running depends on a number of factors such as gear train inertia, gear tooth
profile, escapement design, bearing friction, pendulum drag, etc. The clock has been designed to minimize
the amount of weight required. However, a major factor affecting the weight required to drive a hand made
wooden clock is the accuracy of construction of the various parts, so the actual required drive weight is very
difficult to determine.
For long life and quiet operation, you will want to use the minimum amount of weight necessary to keep the
clock running. That will have to be determined by experimentation. The weight box is oversized and has a plug
in the bottom to allow the weight to be adjusted as needed.
6
o Lay out the shell top (3), the shell bottom (6), and both shell side panels (5) on a flat surface and glue
them together.
o Sand the edges of the front and back panels for a smooth fit to the side panels
o Modify two flanged bearings (9) to the length shown in the bill of materials and install them in each end
of the rope sheave (1) center hole.
o Insert a spring pin (10) into the cross hole in one end of shaft (2)
o Slip a washer onto the shaft and insert the shaft through the holes in the shell top and the rope sheave.
o Check that the rope sheave rotates freely on the shaft. If not, remove the rope sheave and ream the
bearings.
o When satisfied that the rope sheave rotates freely, install another washer and another spring pin at the
other end of the shaft.
o Turn the weight box upside down and pour in #8 lead shot to get to the desired amount of drive
weight. Seven to eight pounds is recommended as a starting point.
o Twist a wine bottle cork into the fill hole and cut it off flush with the bottom of the box.
WC5-14 – COUNTERWEIGHT ASSEMBLY The purpose of the counterweight assembly is solely to keep the drive
rope tight on the arbor T-1 rope pulley as the clock runs. Weight added to the counterweight subtracts from
the driving force provided by the drive weight, so you will want to keep the weight of the counterweight to a
minimum. One pound total weight should be heavy enough.
o The assembly procedure for the counterweight is exactly the same as the procedure for the drive
weight.
WC5-02 FRAME ASSEMBLY Because of the design of this clock it is necessary to assemble most of the other
clock subassemblies into the clock as the frame is being assembled, the only exceptions being the pendulum
assembly and the drive weights. Those should not be installed until the clock is setting on the wall shelf.
o Locate the middle and front bearing plates (2) and (3) and insert the flanged bearings (9) and (10) into
them. Pay attention that the bearing flanges are on the correct sides of the plates.
o Ream the bearings as required for the arbor pivots to turn freely in them. Depending on the size of the
drill bit used to drill the holes in the bearing plates, the large bearings (10) may not require reaming.
The small bearings will almost certainly be too tight without reaming.
o Screw the four threaded rods (11) into four of the frame posts (5).
o Insert the threaded rods through the middle frame plate (2) as shown and screw the remaining frame
posts onto them to secure the posts to the middle plate. Tighten hand tight. DO NOT over tighten.
Metal screw threads in hardwood will provide a strong joint but the threads aren’t strong enough to
stretch the screws as threads in metal could.
o Use four round head machine screws (13) with washers (12) to fasten the rear frame plate (1) to the
rear frame posts. DO NOT over tighten the screws.
7
o Fit the pendulum support bridge (7) into the notches at the top of the middle and rear frame plates.
Note that the notch and the slot in the bridge are not located at its center. The bridge should be
oriented with the notch as close as possible to the rear of the clock. DO NOT glue the bridge in place.
o Lay the frame assembly on its back and insert the arbors into the bearings in the middle plate. Leave
out the anchor assembly for now.
o Locate the front bearing plate (3) and insert the pivot of arbor T-6 through the double bossed hole near
its top. The front bearing plate has two bosses on its back side and one on its front side. Make sure the
second wheel is on the front.
o Slip the arbor T-6 wheel (WC5-09, Item 3) onto the T-6 pivot, align the cross holes in the pivot and the
wheel and install the cotter pin (WC5-09, Item 5).
o Insert the pivot of arbor T-INT into the front bearing plate hole with the single boss. Make sure that the
proper number of shim washers are installed between the T-INT wheel and the bearing plate (See WC5-
10).
o Align the cross hole in the pivot with the cross hole in the bearing plate boss and insert the L-shaped pin
(8) to secure arbor T-INT in place.
o Rotate arbor T-6 and arbor T-INT to make sure they turn freely.
o Lay the front plate (3) on top of the arbors and carefully work all of the pivots into the front plate
bearings. Insert a temporary pivot into the front of arbor T-2 to align it.
o Insert four round head machine screws (13) with washers (12) thru the front plate and into the front
frame posts (5) and tighten finger tight.
o Stand the assembly upright and rotate the gear train in its normal running direction. It should run
smoothly with no noticeable binding. If any binding occurs disassemble and adjust the parts as
necessary. Any binding will have to be corrected or overcome by increasing the clock driving weight
which will result in a noisy clock and rapid wear.
o When satisfied that all of the gears mesh properly and rotate without binding, loosen the front plate
mounting screws, add the anchor to the assembly, and replace the screws.
o Put the dial posts (6) and dial (4) into position and secure them with oval head machine screws (14)
and hex nuts (15).
o Remove the temporary front pivot from arbor T-2 and replace it with the hand assembly. Turn both
hands to the twelve o’clock position and mesh the arbor T-INT gears with the hand assembly gears.
You may have to try arbor T-INT in several positions to find the position that best aligns the hour and
minute hands in the twelve o’clock position.
o Align the cross holes in the front pivot and the arbor T-2 shaft, and insert cotter pin (WC5-04, Item 8).
o Install the anchor’s impulse lever on the rear pivot of the anchor assembly. Tighten the clamp only
enough to hold the lever in place.
The clock should now be ready to place on the wall shelf for final assembly and run in. See the installation
section for continuation.
2
12
15
13
14
SCALE: 1:10
ARBOR T-5
8 11T PINION
15 ESC PINS
30 SEC/REV
ARBOR T-INT
12T PINION 10
45T WHEEL
3 HR/REV ARBOR T-4
7 9T PINION
44T WHEEL
2 MIN/REV
ARBOR T-2
4 12T PINION
54T WHEEL
1 HR/REV
HAND ASSY
15T PINION
1 HR/REV 5
48T WHEEL
12 HR/REV
ARBOR T-1
3 38T WHEEL
3.17 HR/REV
6 3/8"
1
3"
7"
4 1
14
15
13
10
12
5 10
11
5 13
12
3 6
1
7
5
6
8
8
2 INSTALL ITEM 2
BEFORE ITEM 1
2
5
6
19/32"
2
1
4
1
1/4"
10
5/64" THRU ALL
DRILL AT ASSEMBLY 8
2
5 8
7 9
3
4
ENLARGE HOLE
TO 5/64"
DETAIL-A
SUSPENSION SPRING
5 MODIFICATION
42 17/64"
INITIAL SETUP
10
SEE SHEET 2 FOR BILL OF MATERIALS
10 11
11
3
2 4
4
7
11
10
11 3
4
2
4
5
This clock was designed to be wall shelf mounted as shown on arrangement drawing WC5-A, attached. The
location selected for the clock is important. For reliable operation it should be placed in a location where
temperature and humidity are reasonably constant, and where disturbance of the pendulum by drafts and
traffic is minimized. The mounting height above the floor is not critical to clock operation, but changing the
height will affect weight travel which determines run time between windings.
o Pick a solid vertical surface on which to mount the wall shelf. If you plan to mount it on a hollow wall, it
should be mounted on a stud for several reasons: 1) the finished clock will weigh about 12 pounds, 2)
the clock must be mounted on a stable surface (movement will dampen the pendulum possibly
causing the clock to stop), and 3) the clock will run quieter (wood clocks are inherently noisy and a
hollow wall will act like a drum head to further amplify the noise).
o Position the shelf on the wall and insert a #8 wood screw through the top hole on the shelf back plate
into the wall stud leaving it slightly loose. See arrangement drawing WC5-A for the recommended
mounting height.
o Level the shelf; insert the second #8 wood screw; and tighten both screws. If the wall is uneven you
may need to glue some small felt pads to the back of the shelf to steady it.
o Set the clock on the shelf using the blocks glued on the top of the shelf to locate it and hold it in
position.
o Remove the suspension spring from the pendulum assembly and insert it through the slot in the
pendulum support bridge.
o Carefully insert the pendulum up through the back of the clock frame and hang it from the suspension
spring. Make sure the anchor assembly’s impulse pin is inserted through the slot in the pendulum
leader.
Note: As an alternate, the pendulum support bridge can be removed from the clock frame, attached to the
pendulum, and then reinserted back into the frame along with the pendulum.
o Set the drive weight on the floor directly beneath the clock.
o Insert one end of the drive rope up thru the left hole in the shelf and knot it.
o Thread the other end of the rope through the sheave on the weight box, and then up through the
clock as shown on the drawings. The rope goes over the arbor T-1 rope pulley.
o Next pull the slack out of the rope and continue to thread it through the sheave on the counterweight
box and up through the right hole in the shelf.
o Finally pull the rope through the shelf until the counterweight almost touches the shelf, knot it and cut
off the excess. The clock will now run until the drive weight touches the floor without crashing the
counterweight into the shelf.
o Now wind the clock by pulling down on the rope on the right side of the arbor T-1 rope pulley until the
drive weight is in the position shown on the arrangement drawing. This will load the gear train.
o With the gear train loaded you can now adjust the escapement so the clock will run with the proper
beat. Do this by moving the anchor to a point where one of the escape wheel pins rest on one of the
anchor pallets near the middle of its angled end. With the pendulum hanging straight down tighten
the clamp on the impulse lever. It needs to be pretty tight.
2
o Move the pendulum to release the pallet and allow the escape wheel to turn and lock on the other
pallet (one tick). With the pendulum again hanging straight down observe the position of the pin on
the pallet. It should also be at about the middle of the angled surface.
o Move the pendulum to one side and release it. If you did everything right the clock should run at least
for several beats. The bob only needs to move about two inches off center for the escapement to
release.
o Listen for an even tick tock beat. If the beat is uneven you may need to make a slight adjustment to
the angle of the anchor. With a little practice you will be able to adjust it correctly with ease.
o If the clock stops double check for binding in the gear train. If none is found add a small amount of
lead shot to the drive weight box and try again. Your objective should be to use only the amount of
weight required to make the pendulum travel just enough to release the escapement.
This escapement is what is called a dead beat escapement so a little over travel is okay and maybe even
desirable, but using more weight than needed will cause the clock to tick louder and wear out quicker.
The weights specified on the drawings should be more than adequate to keep a well built clock running.
o When you are satisfied that the clock is going to run okay start adjusting the speed with the adjustment
nut at the bottom of the pendulum. If it is running too slow adjust the pendulum bob up until it runs too
fast them back off in small increments until you have the correct speed. This process may take several
days, even weeks.
Congratulations you are finished. All you need to do now is remember to wind your new clock every day.
Winding instructions:
Most clocks have a maintaining spring built into arbor T-1 to keep power on the gear train during winding. This
clock does not, but it can be wound very easily by placing a finger on a tooth of the arbor T-1 wheel and
pressing down to keep it turning counterclockwise while using the other hand to pull down on the drive rope on
the right side of the rope pulley to lift the drive weight.
General care:
You should get in the habit of winding your clock at about the same time every day. You should stop it any
time you will be away for more than 34 hours after it is wound to avoid letting it run down. No clock should be
allowed to run down or forced to run backwards by turning the hands backwards while it is running. This one is
especially susceptible to crashing the escapement if power is taken off of the escape wheel. The un-powered
escape wheel will likely stop midway between ticks while the pendulum is still swinging allowing the tip of a
pallet to crash into one of the escapement pins. When this happens, the impulse lever will be knocked out of
position and you will have to realign the escapement to get the clock to run again.
The bearings in this clock do not need oiling. You may need to put a single drop of good clock oil on each
pallet every two or three years. Otherwise just keep it clean and enjoy watching it run.
7 13/64"
80"
67 3/4"
62"
49"
REF
It is recommended that all pattern sheets be printed on good quality adhesive backed paper to simplify
attaching the patterns to the face of the stock to be cut.
To attach the patterns: cut them apart, remove the backing, and stick them to the face of the material to be
cut. The pattern should remain in place until all drilling, sawing, and edge sanding is completed.
MATCH LINE
THIS BLOCK
1" MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-01 (BOTTOM SECTION)
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
MATCH LINE
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-01 (TOP SECTION)
MATCH LINE
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-02 (BOTTOM SECTION)
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
MATCH LINE
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-02 (TOP SECTION)
MATCH LINE
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-03 (BOTTOM SECTION)
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
MATCH LINE
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-03 (TOP SECTION)
MATCH LINE
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-04 (LEFT HALF)
MATCH LINE
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-04 (RIGHT HALF)
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-03-01
CUTTING PATTERNS
WC5-03-03-01
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-04-03
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-05-05
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-05-04
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-06-02
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-08-01
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-09-02
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-10-02
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
CUTTING PATTERN CUTTING PATTERN WC5-12-01
WC5-11-01 WC5-11-02
CUTTING PATTERNS THIS BLOCK
WC5-12-04-01 MUST PRINT
1" FULL SCALE
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-12-04-02
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-12-04-02
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
1"
FULL SCALE
1"