Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute Of Fashion

Technology New Delhi

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

ARVIND LIMITED | DENIM DIVISION

ARUSHI SRIVASTAVA

VAISHALI RAI
 Certificate of Authenticity
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that Arushi Srivastava and Vaishali Rai of BFT-V,

National Institute Of Fashion Technology, New Delhi did their internships
at Arvind Limited | Denim Division, Naroda, Ahemdabad from
May 26, 2013 to June 15, 2013 towards the partial fulfillment of the
program B.F.Tech (Apparel Production).

This project report has been created and compiled by them under the guidance of
Ms. Girija Jha and is their authentic work.

Arushi Srivastava

Vaishali Rai

Ms. Girija Jha

Mentor

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Acknowledgemen

At the outset, we wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has

assisted in the formulation of this report. There are many to whom
expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there some special people
who have to be given prominence, without whom we would not have
reached the conclusion of this project so quickly and so efficiently.

We are grateful to Dr. Senthil Kumar for guiding us throughout the

internship. We would like to thank our Course Coordinator and mentor
Ms. Girija Jha and Mr. N.A. Khan, who has always added to our buoyancy
with her tremendous efforts and for her constant support.

At Arvind Limited, we would like to thank the HR manager, Ms. Richa

Ahuja; our industry mentor, Mr. Diwaker Tiwari, Chief Manager-
Manufacturing and Mr. Mahesh Ramakrishnan, head of the Agribusiness
Department. Also, we would like to express a special gratitude to the
company for being excellent hosts.

We take this opportunity to express our affection towards our

parents for their consistent faith and support.

Arushi Srivastava

Vaishali Rai

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Content
1. About the Company
1.1.Introduction 07
1.2.Journey 09
1.3.Co ﾏ pa ﾐ┞げ s Visio ﾐ 11
1.4.Divions
1.4.1.Denim 12
1.4.2.Woven Fabrics 13
1.4.3.Knits 16
1.4.4.Garment Export 17
1.4.5.Advanced Materials 18
1.4.6.Arvind Brands 19
1.4.7.Mega Mart Reta 20
1.4.8.The Arvind Store 21
1.5.Executive Leaders 22
1.6.Board of Directors 24
1.7.Denim Division 28
1.8.International buyers 30
1.9.Own Brands 31
2. Production Process
2.1.Process Flow Chart 32
2.2.Spinning
2.2.1.Process Flow 33
2.2.2.Blow Room 34
2.2.3.Carding 38

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2.2.4.Drawing 40
2.2.5.Spinning 42
2.3.Warp Dyeing
2.3.1.Introduction 46
2.3.2.Rope Dyeing 48
2.3.3.Slasher dyeing 54
2.4.Weaving 59
2.5.Finishing & Processing
2.5.1.Introduction 61
2.5.2.Wet Finishing 62
3. Denim Incubation Department
3.1.Design Team 66
3.2.Design Line 69
3.3.Innovation Pipeline Denims 70
3.4.Technical Team 71
4. Quality Assurance & Standardization
4.1.Introduction 74
4.2.Process Defects 76
4.3.Testing
4.3.1.Physical 79
4.3.2.Chemical 80
4.3.3.Shade 82
4.4.Packaging & Shipping 83
4.5.Accreditations 84

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5. Project Report-
5.1.Better Cotton Initiative 87
5.1.1.Introduction 89
5.1.2.Features 90
5.1.3.The Better Cotton System 91
5.1.4.Production Principles 92
5.1.5.Criteria For Assessment 92
5.1.6.Audit Information 93
5.1.7.Products Traceability Along The Supply Chain 93
5.1.8.Support 94
5.1.9. Costs 94
5.1.10. Countries & Regions 96
5.1.11. Overview of Requirements 98
5.2.BCI at Arvind Limited
5.2.1.Introduction 101
5.2.2.Farm Projects 102
5.2.3.Contract Farming 103
5.2.4.Benefits
5.2.4.1. Economical Benefits 105
5.2.4.2. Environmental Benefits 106
5.2.4.3. Social Benefits 106
5.2.5.Quality Assessment 107
5.2.6.Results & Analysis 108
5.2.7.Conclusion 109
6. References 110

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 About the Company
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| Introduction

Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in

the year 1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine
fabrics Arvind invested in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring
spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few
companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities
in addition to full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and
mercerizing. The sales in the year 1934, three years after establishment
were Rs 45.76 lakh and profits were Rs 2.82 lakh. Steadily producing high
quality fabrics, year after year, Arvind took its place amongst the foremost
textile units in the country.

I ﾐ the ﾏ id ヱ ΓΒ ヰげ s the te┝tile i ﾐ dust�┞ faIed a ﾐ othe� ﾏ ajo� I�isis. With the
power loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many
large composite mills lost their markets, and were on the verge of
closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level of profitability.
There could be no better time, concluded the Management, for a
rethink on strategy. The Arvind

management coined a new word for it new strategy – Reno vision. It simply
meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious
and that became the corporate philosophy.

The national focus pa┗ed ┘a┞ fo� i ﾐ te�ﾐ atio ﾐ al foIus a ﾐ d A�┗i ﾐ d げ s ﾏ a�kets
shifted from domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only
quality goods. An in-depth analysis of the world textile market proved an
eye opener.
People the world over were shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics.
Cottons were the largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom

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pointed to popular priced segments, Reno vision pointed to high quality
premium niches.

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Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two sections -Denim
for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton shirting and
trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year
and it was the third largest producer of Denim in the world.

In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits

facility, the la�gest of its ki ﾐ d i ﾐ I ﾐ dia, at “a ﾐ tej. With A�┗i ﾐ d げ s Io ﾐ Ie�ﾐ
fo� e ﾐ┗i�o ﾐﾏ e ﾐ t a most modern effluent treatment facility with zero
effluent discharge capability
was also established.

Year 2005 was a watershed year for textiles. With the muliti-fiber
agreement getting phased out and the disbanding of quotas, international
textile trade was poised for a quantum leap. In the domestic market too, the
rationalizing of the cenvat chain and the growth of the organized retail
industry was likely to make textiles and apparel see an explosive growth.

Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current

operations by setting up worldscale garmenting facilities and offering a one-
stop shop service, by offering garment packages to its international and
domestic customers. With Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its
own domestic brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf,
Arvind set its vision of becoming the largest apparel brands company in
India.
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 About the Company
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| Journey

1931

The inception of Arvind Mills Limited at the hands of three brothers -

Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai

1934

Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country.

1980

Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy – け‘e ﾐ o ┗isio ﾐげ,
points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a high-
quality premium niche market.

1987-88

Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim for
leisure and Denim for fashion wear.

1991

Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world.

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1997

I ﾐ dia げ s la�gest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set
up at Santej.

2005

Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering

garment packages to reputed national and international customers.

2007

Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by

establishing MegaMart – O ﾐ e of I ﾐ dia げ s la�gest ┗alue �etail Ihai ﾐ s.

2010

A�┗i ﾐ d lau ﾐ Ihes The A�┗i ﾐ d “to�e, a Io ﾐ Iept putti ﾐ g the Io ﾏ pa ﾐ┞げ s
Hest faH�iIs, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one
roof. Arvind lau ﾐ Ihes its fi�st ﾏ ajo� ‘eal Estate p�ojeIts. A�┗i ﾐ d HeIo ﾏ
es o ﾐ e of I ﾐ dia げ s la�gest producers of fire protection fabrics.

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About the | Company’s
The underlying theme running across the broad
spectrum of all business activities at Arvind is that of
enhancing lifestyles of people, across all diversities け We will
and demographics. enable people
to experience a
OUR PHILOSOPHY better quality of
WE BELIEVE life by
providing
In people and their unlimited potential; in content
enriching and
and in focus on problem solving; in teams for
inspiring
effective performance, in the power of the intellect. lifestyle solutio

WE ENDEAVOUR

To select, train and coach people to obtain higher

responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build
leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward,
celebrate and activate all intellectual business
contributions.

WE DREAM

Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit

and prosperity; of making the world a better place
to live in.

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About the | Division

Denim

The late ヱ ΓΒ ヰげ s sa┘ A�┗i ﾐ d pio ﾐ ee� the ﾏ a ﾐ ufaItu�e of de ﾐ i ﾏ i ﾐ I ﾐ dia. Toda┞ ┘ith
an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a
leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability
have been

A�┗i ﾐ d げ s Io�e Io ﾏ pete ﾐ I┞ a ﾐ d ha┗e pla┞ed a ke┞ �ole i ﾐ A�┗i ﾐ d げ s suIIess. The use
of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-
renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the
international markets.

All A�┗i ﾐ d げ s p�oduIts a�e desig ﾐ ed a ﾐ d ﾏ odeled o ﾐ the Hasis of e┝pe�t desig ﾐ
i ﾐ puts Io ﾏ i ﾐ g f�o ﾏ A�┗i ﾐ d げ s desig ﾐ e�s Hased out of I ﾐ dia, Japa ﾐ, Ital┞ a ﾐ d the
United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of
distinctiveness and quality.
Some Examples:

· Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim

· Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge
· Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen
· Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes
· Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim
· Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim

The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100,
GOT“, a ﾐ d O�ga ﾐ iI e┝Iha ﾐ ge sta ﾐ da�d. A�┗i ﾐ d げ s laHs a�e Ie�tified H┞ NABL ふ I“O

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About the | Division
17025 Ie�tifiIatio ﾐぶ a ﾐ d Iusto ﾏ e�s like Le┗i げ s, Lee, a ﾐ d W�a ﾐ gle� etI.

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Woven Fabrics

Shirting & Bottom weights

A�┗i ﾐ d げ s e┝pe�tise i ﾐ ﾐ e┘ age shi�ti ﾐ g faH�iI a ﾐ d Hotto ﾏ ┘eights is u ﾐ pa�alleled.

A�┗i ﾐ d げ s shi�ti ﾐ g faH�iIs ha┗e Io ﾐ siste ﾐ tl┞ fetIhed a p�e ﾏ iu ﾏ in the local and
i ﾐ te�ﾐ atio ﾐ al ﾏ a�kets. A�┗i ﾐ d げ s state of the a�t faIilit┞ is IapaHle of p�oduIi ﾐ g a
total of 65 million meters per annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics.
This capacity is set to increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the
next financial year.

We have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on product

innovation and fashion forecasts for the domestic and international markets.
We also boast of the largest yardage and sampling mill in India.

A�┗i ﾐ d げ s spi ﾐﾐ i ﾐ g setup can produce a variety of counts for yarn types like
Io ﾏ paIts, sluHs, sig ﾐ ed ┞a�ﾐ etI. A�┗i ﾐ d げ s ┘ea┗i ﾐ g IapaHilities i ﾐ Ilude
high-speed Ai�jet loo ﾏ s a ﾐ d ‘apie� loo ﾏ s. A�┗i ﾐ d げ s fi ﾐ ishi ﾐ g
IapaHilities i ﾐ Ilude Io ﾐ ti ﾐ uous
bleaching and dying ranges, caustic mercerization, and machinery for
various chemical and mechanical finishes.

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A sophisticated and supremely flexible package dying facility complete

with vessels ranging from 1 Kg to 750 Kgs and state of the art printing facilities
are also in place.

· In addition to cotton we now work with a variety of fibers incuding

Modal, Tencel, Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen, Polyester
and Nylon.

· We a�e host to I ﾐ dia げ s fi�st A ﾏﾏ o ﾐ ia Me�Ie�izatio ﾐ Pla ﾐ t

· We use patented technology to impart structural stability and
superior hand-feel for the difficult-to-handle firbers like Modal, Tencel, Excel
and Viscose

· O┗e� the ┞ea�s, A�┗i ﾐ d げ s i ﾐ house ‘&D depa�t ﾏ e ﾐ t has suIessfull┞ de┗eloped
and perfected a number of finishes addi ﾐ g ┗alue to A�┗i ﾐ d げ s
p�oduIts a ﾐ d u ﾐ i ケ ue ﾐ ess to A�┗i ﾐ d げ s �a ﾐ ge.
• Othe� Che ﾏ iIal Fi ﾐ ishes: W�i ﾐ kle f�ee, P�ep�ess, E┗e�f�esh, Eas┞ to I�o ﾐ,
Stain Repellant, Nano Care, Anti-Bacterial, Permawhite etc.
• MeIha ﾐ iIal Finishes: Aero, Peach, Brush, Diamond Emery and Carbonium

A�┗i ﾐ d げ s p�oduIt �a ﾐ ge is Ie�tified H┞ Oekote┝, A�┗i ﾐ d げ s p�oIesses

a�e Ie�tified H┞GOTS for producing Organic products, we're certified
producers of Lycra and Teflo ﾐ Hased ┗a�ieties, ┘hile A�┗i ﾐ d げ s laboratory is
accredited by Marks and Spencers, Next, Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and
INVISTA.

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Voiles

Arvind has been well poised as a leading manufacturer of super fine

fabrics in India. An uncontested market-leader in the manufacture of voiles,
Arvind still continues to manufacture the traditional fabric for both domestic
and international markets. The legacy of Arvind transcends from the olden
days into a

golde ﾐ futu�e ┘ith a p�oduItio ﾐ IapaIit┞ of ンヶ ﾏ illio ﾐ ﾏ ete�s pe� a ﾐﾐ u ﾏ. A�┗i ﾐ d げ

s
voiles are primarily used as blouse material and are sold in the domestic
market through an impressive network of around 150 dealers, reaching
over 5000 retail outlets throughout India. High quality Swiss voiles are
exported to Switzerland, Sri Lanka and countries in the Middle East.

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Knits

A�┗i ﾐ d げ s k ﾐ its depa�t ﾏ e ﾐ t has a ﾐ a ﾐﾐ ual k ﾐ itti ﾐ g IapaIit┞ of ヵ,ヰヰヰ to ﾐ s. The k ﾐ

its
vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn
dyeing capacity of 1800 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both
tubular and open-width fabrics and offers specialty fin+ishes like
mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing and peaching.

Basic knits:

 Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock

 Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric
 Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester
 Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.

Marks & Spencer – Eddie Bauer – Zara – Josepha Banks

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Garment Exports

A world without boundaries is a promise of a global marketplace. At Arvind,

our range of fabrics is universal in appeal. We aim to inspire a diverse mix
of customers enriching lifestyles globally. We have successfully established
ourselves as a one-stop shop for apparel solutions catering to an array of
national and international clients.

 Bottoms: 7.2 million pieces of jeans per annum

 Formal & Casual tops: 6 million pieces per annum
 Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per annum
 Our specialized capabilities for adding value to our products include:
 Automated Placement Printing Machinery
 I ﾐ dia げ s la�gest ┘ashi ﾐ g facility with Tonello machines
for wet proesses
 Bohemian machines and Laser tech for unique and automated
dry processes
 Skilled artisans for hand processes

Gap Inc – Patagonia – Tommy Hilfiger – Quicksilver – Brooks Brothers – Silver

Jeans – Calvin Klein – FCUK – Pull & Bear – Jack & Jones – Energie – Esprit –
S.Oliver – Mexx – Sisley – Benetton – Coin

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Advanced Materials

We envision world leadership in the field of advanced materials

offering high-tech textile solutions for critical and composite applications.
Arvind Ltd., A US $ 1.3 billion Lalbhai Group company has created
the Advanced Textiles Business. Building further on our legacy of innovation,
we have brought a new level of sophistication to manufacturing fabrics. Our
Pro1 range of branded fabrics and composite textiles includes solutions for
growing industrial sectors like Personal Protection, Industrial Filtration, Wind
Energy, Defense, Auto Components, Transportation, and Housing &
Infrastructure.
Products in the Pro1 range include:
 Fire Protection Fabrics
 Chemically treated Flame Retardant Fabrics
 Proban
 Pyrovatex

 Inherent Fire Resistant Fabrics

 Nomex
 Protex (Modacrylic)
 High Tech Applications
 Filtration Fabrics
 Anti-Ballistic Fabrics
 Nylon Fabrics
 Carbon-Glass-Aramid Fabrics

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Arvind Brands

Arvind is amongst a few organizations worldwide with a portfolio of brands

that are as distinctive and relevant across diverse consumers. At Arvind,
brands work across multiple channels, price points and consumer segments.
The expanse of the Arvind brandscape is spread across the Indian market
with around 273 standalone brand stores in addition to 975 counters selling
through key accounts and multibrand outlets across India.

Own Brands Licensened Brands Joint Venture

Brands
Mainstream Bridge to Luxury Bridge to Luxury
Excalibur Gant U.S.A. 1949 Tommy Hilfiger
Flying Machine E ﾐ e�gie げ

Popular Premium Premium

Ruf & Tuf USPA Lee

New Port University Arrow Wrangler
Izod

Popular

Cherokee
Mossimo

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Mega Mart Retail

Arvind runs India's largest Value Retail Chain - Megamart. The MegaMart
format offers a unique and differentiated proposition to the consumers. It
offers mega brands at amazingly low prices and provides a retail
experience of a high-end department store.

The Megamart stores range in size from 2000 sq ft to 65000 sq ft. The
larger stores are called Big Megamart and there are 6 such stores across
Bangalore, Chennai, Pune and Mumbai. The smaller formats spreads across
the country are 205 in number. Megamart is expanding rapidly and is expected
to be a Rs. 1000 cr chain within the next two years.

The brands sold exclusively in Megamart include:

RUGGERS - SKINN - ELITUS - DONUTS - KARIGARI - MEA CASA - AUBURN HILL

- BAY ISLAND - COLT - LEISHA- EDGE

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The Arvind Store

After decades of ruling the national and international fabric markets, Arvind
has now introduced The Arvind Store, a unique concept in fabrics and
apparel retail. The Arvind Store bring together, under one roof, the best
that Arvind has to offer.

It is a Io ﾐ┗e�ge ﾐ Ie of th�ee of A�┗i ﾐ d げ s st�o ﾐ gest IapaHilities, the Hest of faH�iIs

f�o ﾏ A�┗i ﾐ d げ s te┝tiles di┗isio ﾐ, leadi ﾐ g appa�el H�a ﾐ ds f�o ﾏ A�┗i ﾐ d B�a ﾐ ds a ﾐ
d
bespoke styling solutions based on the latest garment styles from Arvind
Studios. In a world where bespoke tailoring meets cutting edge fashion, The
Arvind Store will create a shopping experience to rival the best in the Indian
Marketplace.

Over a 1000 different fabric styles across shirting, suiting and

denim Leading apparel brands such as Arrow, US Polo & Flying
Machine
Arvind Denim Labs (ADL), a bespoke denim concept offering
customized washed denim - a first of its kind in India and perhaps
the world

Arvind Studio – A styling and tailoring solution to rival the best brands in the
world

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 About the Company
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| Executive Leaders

Corporate

Jayesh Shah
Director &
CFO Anang
Lalbhai
MD - Arvind Products

Lifestyle Fabrics

Aamir Akhtar
CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim
Susheel Kaul
CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics
PD Chavda
President, Voiles

Lifestyle Apparel

Ashish Kumar
CEO, Lifestyle Apparel - Jeans & Shirts

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Brands & Retail

J.Suresh
Managing Director - Brands & Retail

Knowledge Academy

Milan Shah
CEO, Knowledge Academy

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 About the Company
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| Board of Directors

MR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI

(CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR)

Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, 58 years, is the Chairman and Managing Director of

the Company. He is a Science Graduate with a Master's degree in
Business Management and has been associated with the Company for more
than 33 years. He also holds directorships in Arvind Lifestyle Brands
Limited, Arvind Retail Limited, Arvind Brands & Retail Limited, Amol
Decalite Limited, Torrent Pharmaceuticals Limited, Arvind Worldwide Inc.,
USA, Arvind Worldwide (M) Inc., Arvind Overseas (M) Ltd. Arvind Spinning
Ltd., Mauritius and Arvind Textile Mills Limited, Bangladesh.

MR. JAYESH SHAH

(DIRECTOR AND CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER)

Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, 52 years, is the Wholetime Director with the

designation of Director and Chief Financial Officer of the Company. He is a
Commerce Graduate and a Chartered Accountant and has been with the
company since 1st July, 1993. He has a distinguished academic career and
extensive administrative, financial, regulatory and managerial expertise. He
also holds directorships in many other companies.

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MR. PUNIT LALBHAI

(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)

Mr. Punit Lalbhai, 30 years, is an MBA from INSEAD (France) specializing

in Strategy and General Management, along with Post-Graduate degree in
Masters of Environmental Science from Yale University, and a Bachelors
degree in Science (Conservation Biology) from University of California, USA.
He has several awards
and honors during his career including Research Grants, Presidential
Fellowship Grant, J.M. Long-E ﾐ do┘ed “Ihola�ship a ﾐ d i ﾐ Ilusio ﾐ i ﾐ Dea ﾐげ s
Lists fo� Io ﾐ siste ﾐ t Academic Excellence.

MR. KULIN LALBHAI

(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)

Mr. Kulin Lalbhai, 27years, is an MBA from Harvard Business School (USA),
along with a Bachelors degree in Science (Electrical Engineering) from
Stanford University, USA. He has held several leadership positions during his
academic role including serving as Co-President of Family Business Club at
Harvard, Associate Director for Stanford Asia Technology Initiative and also
serving as Conference Co- Chair for the Harvard-India Conference.

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OTHER DIRECTORS

Mr. Sudhir Mehta

(Non-executive and Independent Director)

Mr. Sudhir Mehta is a Science Graduate from Gujarat University. He was

instrumental in the growth and progress of Torrent Pharmaceuticals Ltd.,
the flagship Company of the Torrent Group. He systematically expanded the
power business of Torrent Group by acquiring significant stakes in the
Torrent Power AEC Ltd. and Torrent Power SEC Ltd. and Torrent Power
Generation Limited, now merged with Torrent Power Limited and one among
the few successful independent power projects in India.

Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia

(Non-executive and Independent Director)

Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia is a Gold Medalist from Baroda University and he

has a Doctorate in Economics. He has 41 years of professional experience
including 33 years at IIM, Ahmedabad. He has been a consultant to various
national and international organizations. He was awarded many awards
including Padma Shri by the Government of India in recognition of his
distinguished services in the field of education in 2007, Bharat Asmita
National Award for his contribution to

ﾏ a ﾐ age ﾏ e ﾐ t eduIatio ﾐ a ﾐ d teaIhi ﾐ g H┞ the Ho ﾐげ He Chief JustiIe of I ﾐ dia i ﾐ ヲヰヰ Β

etc.

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Mr. Munesh Khanna

(Non-executive and Independent Director)

Mr. Munesh Khanna, 50 years, is a Chartered Accountant from ICAI. He has

been with the Company since 27th October, 2007. He has over 20 years of
experience in the financial, regulatory and taxation domain. He has an
extensive network of relationships with Indian Corporates.

Ms. Renuka Ramnath

(Non-executive and Independent Director)

Ms. Renuka Ramnath is the Founder and Managing Director of Multiples

Alternate Asset Management Pvt. Ltd. which seeks to manage circa $450
million of Indian and International capital.

Mr. Prabhakar R. Dalal

(Nominee Director of EXIM Bank of India)

Mr. Prabhakar R. Dalal is the Executive Director of EXIM Bank of India

having qualifications of M.Com, LL.B, CAIIB and PGDFERM and a fellow of
the Indian Institute of Banking and Finance (FIIBF).

He has si┝ ┞ea�s げ e┝pe�ie ﾐ Ie i ﾐ Io ﾏﾏ e�Iial Ha ﾐ ki ﾐ g afte� joi ﾐ i ﾐ g as PO a ﾐ d 28

┞ea�s げ e┝pe�ie ﾐ Ie i ﾐ I ﾐ te�ﾐ atio ﾐ al T�ade Fi ﾐ a ﾐ Ii ﾐ g, P�ojeIti ﾐ g Fi ﾐ a ﾐ
Ii ﾐ g,
Institutional Relations, Corporate Banking and Corporate Finance.

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 About the Company
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
| Denim Division

Arvind is a pioneer in the manufacture of denim in India. Today

with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, The
Naroda plant accounts for 89% of the company's total denim fabric
capacity of 108 million meters.

CEO of the Arvind denim division is Mr. Aamir Akhtar.

Arvind denim holds the position of 3rd largest producer of denim in

the world; and an export network of 70 countries worldwide. Prominent
products in this category include ring denim, indigo voiles, organic denim,
bi-stretch denim and fair trade certified denim. This is apart from regular
light, medium and heavy weight denims. They come in various shades of
indigo, sulfur, yarn-dyed, in 100% cotton and various blends.

Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations

and Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key
role in their success in producing the highest quality of denim and being
the market leaders.

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

They have a huge DNTG department that is Development and New

technology that is the hub of innovation for denims. The use of
sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-
renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the
international markets. The facilities of Arvind Denim are accredited with ISO
9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS, Organic exchange standard, FLO
for fair trade and Lycra Assured. As one of the largest denim producers in the
world, Arvind caters to quality markets of Europe, US, West Asia, the Far East
and the Asia Pacific. Labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification) The
labs are accredited by Dupont, Levi Strauss, GAP.

All the products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert
design inputs coming from our designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and
the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of
distinctiveness and quality.

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About the | International

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About the | Own

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Production | Process Flow

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3
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Production | Spinnin
PROCESS FLOW OF SPINNING DEPARTMENT:

Packaging
Spinning
Drawing

Carding

Blow Room
[Blending]

LAY OUT
SLEEVE ROOM COTTON GODOWN

BLENDOM
AT
FILTER
YARN STORAGE AREA
FILTER
BLOW ROOM ROOM

CARDING EXTENSION CARDING

AUT
DRAW FRAME
O
COR
AUTO CORO O
STOR
E

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

BLOW ROOM
Input Cotton Bales
-Full of trashes or impurities i.e. leaves, seed, chaff,
metallic particle, dusts etc.
Purpose  Opening
 Cleaning
 Mixing or blending
 Dust removal
 Uniform feed to the carding machine
Output Clean & open small tufts
No. of Machines 2 Lines with 12 machines
Machine make Trützschler
No. of 2 Operators ( 1op/mc)
Operators

To convert the mass of

To open the compressed layer
of bale of cotton or any staple
fibres.
cotton fibres in to a uniform
thick sheet of cotton both
longitudinally and
transversely in the form of
compactly built lap.

OBJECTIVES

To blend different varieties of To extract the impurities

cotton in the desired like broken seeds, leaves,
proposition to prepare the sand, stone & iron
raw material for the particles, short fibres,
spinning process. immature fibres, dust, dirt
by opening and beating.

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PROCESS FLOW OF BLOW ROOM:

Blendomat

GBR GBR

AFC AFC

MPM-8 MPM-8

ASTA ASTA

BE-961 BE-961

SRS-6 SRS-6

RN RN

BE-981 BE-981

RSK RSK

DUST-EX DUST-EX

FBK 533 FBK 533

CCAARRDDIINN
GG

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 Blendomat
o Blending of different types of cotton to maintain consistency

 GBR
o Cotton Opener
o Converts bales into small tufts

 AFC
o Axi-Flow Cleaner
o Separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton

 MPM-8
o Multiple Mixer with 8 Chambers
o Sorts the cotton fibers & is used for homogenous mixture of fibers

 ASTA
o Heavy trash separation from

 BE-961
o Reservoir trunk with opening & cleaning

 SRS-6
o Cleaning

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

 RN
o Cleaning

 BE-981
o Reservoir trunk with opening & cleaning

 RSK
o Cleaning

 DUST-EX
o Removal of Dust & Micro dust

 FBK 533
o Enables continuous feeding from Blow Room to Carding

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CARDING
Input Clean & open small tufts
Purpose  To open the flocks into individual fibers
 Cleaning or elimination of impurities
 Reduction of neps
 Elimination of dust
 Elimination of short fibers
 Fiber blending
 Fiber orientation or alignment
 Sliver formation
Output Sliver
No. of Operators 2 Operators ( 1op/10mc)
No. of Machines 20 machines
Machine make Trützschler
Model DK 803
Production 18,000 kg/day
Card cleaning efficiency 62-67%
CV% 1.2-1.7%
Front Delivery speed 325 Pascal

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Carding is the process of removing impurities from fibers and producing a

carded sliver of parallelized and straightened fibers

 Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities
must be removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be
straightened.
 The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING.
 The work is done by carding machine.
 The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn on rapidly
revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes
slowly moves concentrically above this cylinder
 As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through
the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the
remaining trashes, disentangles the fibers , and arranges them in a
relatively parallel manner in form of a thin web.
 This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it
into a round rope like mass called card sliver.
 Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons that are
serviceable to produce denim fabrics.

After carding, the carded slivers go to the draw frame.

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DRAW FRAME

Input Slivers
Purpose  6 Slivers are converted into 1
 Parallelization of fiber
 Enhancement of Density
 Blending
 Auto-leveler maintains absolute sliver
fineness
Output Sliver
No. of Operators 3 Operators ( 1op/4mc)
No. of Machines 6 Breakers + 6 finishers
Machine make Trützschler
Model HSR 900
Production 3.5 ton/day

Drawing is the process where the fibers are blended, straightened and the
number of fibers in the sliver increased in order to achieve the desired
linear density in the spinning process. The drawing process also improves the
uniformity or evenness of the sliver. The number of drawing passages
utilised depends on the spinning system used and the end products

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In arvind mills, the sliver is drawn through the draw frame twice.

 1ST PASSAGE:
 Parallel alignment of fibers, 6 slivers are converted into one sliver.

 2nd PASSAGE:
 Output of the second passage of draw frame goes into open
end spinning.

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SPINNING

• The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning

technology spinning.
• Fehlafharft’s AUTOCORO spinning machine.
• No. of Machines installed - 24 (in all 3 units) – 11+7+6
• Total number of rotors in each Spinning Unit:
• AML Section – 2376 rotors
• EOU Section – 1680 rotors
• RDP Section – 1440 rotor.
• Twist produced: Z twist only.

• Yarn length on creel: 64800 meters.

• Automatic piecing: Corolap automatic splicer

• Count: 5.3 to 20 count.

• 6 slub forming machine

• The yarn formed is rolled in form of cheese, cone and bobbin.

• The speed of the rotor roll varies from 80,000 rpm to 130,000 rpm.

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Open end spinning:

 Rotor Spinning is a more recent method of yarn formation

compared to Ring Spinning.

 This is a form of open-end spinning where twist is introduced

into the yarn without the need for package rotation. Allowing
higher twisting speeds with a relatively low power cost.
 In rotor spinning a continuous supply of fibers is delivered
from delivery rollers off a drafting system or from an
opening unit.
 The fibers are sucked down a delivery tube and deposited in
the groove of the rotor as a continuous ring of fiber. The
fiber layer is stripped off the rotor groove and the resultant
yarn wound onto a package.
 The twist in the yarn being determined by the ratio of the
rotational speed of the rotor and the linear speed of the yarn.
 Sliver is fed into the machine and combed and individualized
by the opening roller.

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 The fibers are then deposited into the rotor where air current
and centrifugal force deposits them along the groove of the
rotor where they are evenly distributed.
 The fibers are twisted together by the spinning action of the
rotor, and the yarn is continuously drawn from the center of the
rotor. The resultant yarn is cleared of any defects and wound
onto packages.
 The production rates of rotor spinning is 6-8 times higher than
that of ring spinning and as the machines are fed directly by
sliver and yarn is wound onto packages ready for use in fabric
formation the yarn is a lot cheaper to produce.
 Rotor spun yarns are more even, somewhat weaker and
have a harsher feel than ring spun yarns.
 Rotor spun yarns are mainly produced in the medium count
(30 Ne, 20 tex) to coarse count (10 Ne, 60 tex) range.
 The yarn is wound on a big package of about 4 kg.
 The use of this system has two basic advantages. It is fed by
sliver, not as with the ring frame by roving, and so eliminates
the speed frame from the process line. It can also be
modified to remove any remaining trash, thereby improving
the yarn quality.

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Ring Spinning Open-end Spinning

Bobbin rotates constantly for Spool does not need to be rotated

insertion
of twist
Cannot handle spools of bigger size Much larger spools can be wound
Can spin finer yarns
Uniform and strong yarn
Combed yarns (finer)
Yarns for varied applications
Stronger
Suitable for all staple fibers
to
insert twist
3-5 times faster than ring spinning
Uniform but flexible yarn with better
dye ability
Carded yarns (coarser)
Yarns for heavier fabrics such as
denims, towels and poplins
20% more twisted but 15-20%
weaker
as the yarn is coarser
Not suitable for man-made staple
fiber
spinning

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 Warp Dyeing TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
| Introduction

Warp Dyeing-

Normally the process of dyeing dictates the technology of Denim

manufacturing. The dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the yarn stage.
Generally there are two most popular methods of dyeing Denim followed.
They are:

1. Rope Dyeing
2. Slasher/Sheet Dyeing

Process flow of each of the above mentioned processes are discussed in

detail below.

Warping is transferring many yarns from creel of single-end package forming

parallel sheet of yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam.
Warping machines can process all type of materials including coarse and fine
filament and staple yarns, monofilament, textured and smooth yarns, silk and
other synthetic yarn such as glass.
A warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is known as weaver
beam. A weaver beam contain thousand of ends, but in denim production a
beam obtain from warping is known as section beam because denim is made
from dyed yarn

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combined on the stage dyeing and sizing to get required number of ends
for weaving process. In denim production initially the yarns are first dyed and
then weaving process is carried out .

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

There are two method of yarn dyeing in denim production

Rope dyeing.
Slasher dyeing.

Warping method used for both method of dyeing are different. The process
used for rope d┞ei ﾐ g is k ﾐ o┘ﾐ as さ BALL WARPING ざ a ﾐ d for slasher dyeing
さ BEAM WARPING ざ ﾏ ethod is used.
BEAM WARPING BALL WARPING

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 Warp Dyeing TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
| Rope Dyeing

1. ROPE DYEING
Believed to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn, the
threads of denim yarn are initially twisted into a rope, and then
undergo a repetitive sequence of dipping and oxidization. The more
frequent the dipping and oxidizing, the stronger the indigo shade.
1 rope = 350-460 ends
 Process Flowchart-

Ball Warping Rope Dyeing Re-Beaming

Sizing

1) Ball Warping- the process of winding warp in rope form

onto balls.
Balls are cross wound packages and warp is form of rope.

Technical Details as per the company-

- 5 Machines in total for the process
- 1 operator is required per machine
- Machine setup time/creel changing time is 20 min
- Stop Motion / Defect sensor
- 444 ends per creel
- 320 metes/ﾏ i ﾐ I�eel げ s �p ﾏ
- 4 hour cycle time

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2) Rope Dyeing- the process of dyeing the yarn in rope form.

Morrison Rope dyeing range is installed at Arvind, Naroda.

Machine passage- 800 meters; 5 rolls are used per chamber run.
Machine Units for the process-

i) Pre Wetting Temp- 70+/- 30 ⁰C / Β ヵ⁰ C fo� “ulphu� Botto

Zone ﾏ“ケ.
Pressure PSI- 70
Dancer Weights- 3
ii) Pre Tank 2 is cold wash after sulphur bottoming I
Washing done to prevent color slippage and then tank 3
Zone and 4 hot wash.
iii) Dyeing Zone Ph range- 12.45,
Redox potential -820mv to -
860mv Sq. Pressure- 85 +/- 3
PSI
Dancer Weight- 6
*For indigo dyeing dip time: air time is 1:6
iv) Wash Temp- 50+/- ヵ ⁰ C
Zone Sq. Pressure PSI- 90
Dancer Weights-
6 Ash flow-
100+/-5
v) Hot Temp- 85⁰C
Wash Ph range- 12.60 – 12.85
Zone Redox- -810 to -660
Sq- 75 PSI
Dancer Weight- 6
Drying Cans 48 cylinders in total
5 bar pressure
Coiling Units Litter waste and final collected separately

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*Shade Checking System- Spectrophotometer is also present in the

machine

In this method a warp beams first converts into rope beamers and then
transfer to the Rope Dyeing machine for the further process.

Rope-dye ranges enable to produce pure indigo, sulfur bottom, sulfur top,
and colored denim yarn. The yarn goes through scour/sulfur dye, wash boxes,
indigo dye vats, over a skying device (to allow oxidation to occur), through
additional wash boxes, over drying cans and then is coiled into tubs which are
transferred to the Re- Beaming process.

The speed range of this machine is 0 to 30m/min with the production

capacity of 2 sets in same time.

Production per day is 36000x2=72000m; at the speed of 25m/min

Count range in rope dyeing is (16s to 6/s) OE and Slub both.

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

3) Re-Beaming - Re-opening the rope and winding it on beams so that

they can be sized on next step.

Technical Details as per the company-

- 13 Machines in total for the process

- 1 operator is required per machine

- Machine setup time is 25 min

- 441 combs per machine

- 96000 meter/ day/ machine

4) Sizing – To cover the yarn with size material in order to prevent

breakage during the weaving process due to the tension it undergoes.

Technical Details as per the company-

- 3 Machines in total for the process, for regular sizing

and third for experiments and tests.

- 2 creels set at a time lodged in the machine, one

spare and one running

- 1 operator per machine & 2 assistant operator

per machine required

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Process-

- Each sheet separated by the guide roll (10 sheets, 10 guide roller)

- Passes through the size box/Sow box at a temp of 90⁰C and any of the
4 recepies mentioned as

per the requirement

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Anilose E starch, mutton tallow 4 kg
 800gm NSC, 64+60 stretch reed ( everything else same)
 1500g binder, 68+72 reed ( everything else same)
 125 DN size, no binder, 48 water- 4 Count: Special Slot

- Drying slot- approx. 125⁰C temp and 4 cylinders

- Accumulator- 2 accumulator beams with 120 m capacity each

5) Recepie (SBIT Mix)

*SBIT stands for Sulphur Bottom Indigo Topping

Chemical Box(gpl) Feed(gpl)

S. Black X 170/480

Caustic 1 1.5

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

Sulphide 10 35

Xekol SNS 1.5 1.9

Setamol WL 0.57 1.9

Primasol NF 1 1.9

Condition Indigo Sulphur

Ph +/- 0.2 12.45-12.70 12.55-12.85 Type of Bath for BOX MIX

Redox Dark INDIGO

820-860 610-660
+/- 20
Conductivity at the start
Wetability Instant to 3 seconds
50 o 60 ms

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 Warp Dyeing |
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
Slasher Dyeing

2. SLASHER DYEING

In continuous slasher / sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct

warping beams are used, instead of ball warping logs in case of
Indigo rope dyeing system. At the back end of the slasher / sheet
dyeing range, the direct warping beams are creeled. The yarns sheet
from each beam is pulled over and combined with the yarns from the
other beams so that multiple sheets of yarns can be made.

In sheet dyeing range, the total No of required ends for a weavers

beam are dyed, dried, sized and dried simultaneously. This continuous
slasher dyeing range eliminates a few intermediate processes of the rope
dyeing, such as re-beaming, sizing.

 Process Flowchart-

Pre wetting

Washing

Dyeing

Washing

Drying

Sizing

Drying

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Machine Units for the process-

i) Pre Wetting Temp- 70+/- 30 ⁰C / Β ヵ⁰ C fo� “ulphu� Botto ﾏ

Zone
Nip Pressure- 50 +/- KN
(Dyeing tank)
Dancer Pressure- 2.5 kg/cm3

ii) Dyeing Nip pressure= 55+/-3

Temp= room temp

Dyeing capacity= 10,000 l /6 tanks

iii) Washing 1500 l

iv) Drying 8 cylinders

6 bar pressure in total

v) Sizing 2 squeezing rolls and 2 immersion rolls of

15m depth

vi) Drying 12 cylinders in total

Cans
5 bar pressure

vii) Accumulator 220m capacity

viii) Compensator Winding tension 3000/ KN

and leasing

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Recipe

Sulphur Indigo

Decol- 2 gpl Septamol WS- 3 gpl

Sodium sulphite- 15 gpl Indigo- 75 gpl

Caustic- 5 gpl Caustic- 75 gpl

Sulphur- X gpl Hydrosulphite- 115 gpl

Penitrol- 7 .5 gpl Denim HS (leveling agent)- 7.5 gpl

Anti oxidant- 3 gpl -

Machine Setting Specification- SBIT mix

Machine spec

Machine speed 28 +/- 1 meter/min

Head stock press 6+/- 1 Bar

Creel tension 110 +/- 100 N

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Pre wet

d.p 3 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
Squeezing pressure 50 +/- 3 bar
55 +/- 3 bar
PW temp 85 ˚ +/- 4

Washing Flow rate 2000 +/- 500 lit/hr

Dyeing

D.P. 3 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
3 +/- .5 bar

Squeezing Pressure

(i)– (ii) 45 +/-3 bar

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Washing Zone

D.P. 2.5 +/- .5

2.5 +/- .5
3.0 +/- .5

Squeezing Pressure

(i) 5-0 +/-3 bar

Temp50 +/- 4˚ C

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 Weaving TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
| Introduction

WEAVING is interlacement of the warp (length-wise indigo or sulphur dyed

yarn) and the filling (grey yarn cross wise yarn) producing denim in a variety
of weights and styles.

Input Warp Beam and Weft yarn

Output Woven Denim Fabric
No. of Operators 6 Operators ( 1op/9mc)
No. of Machines 54
Machine make Tsudakoma
Model ZAX 9100
Production 95000m/day
Max. Fabric Width Α ヱ.ヵざ

Full Weaver's
Tension Roll Drop Pins Heald Wires
Beam

Lower Press Upper Press

Friction Roll Reed
Roll Roll

Bottom Guide Batching

Batching Roll Cloth Roll
Roll guide Roll

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

AUTHENTIC DENIM
 A heavy weight fabric
 Made of cotton yarn with no yarn characteristics
 3/1 right hand twill
 100% natural indigo dyed
 Weft and warp count 7 & 6 respectively with 36 picks per inch

TYPES OF YARNS USED

 Warp: Organic, Conventional
 Weft- Open end, Ring spun, Slub, Lycra, Polyester, Poly lycra

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Finishing & | Introductio

Finishing and Processing

Arvind Mill, Naroda boasts of 2 integrated finishing ranges and 2 other finishing
departments. In integrated denim finishing range, the singeing and shrinking is
carried out in a single range. This reduces the process time, material handling,
cost of production and labour cost.

Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an
important role infabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric
shrinkage.

The department churns out 300000 meters of finished denim cloth a day.

The main purposes of applying various finishes may be summarised as under.

1. HIGH SALES APPEAL: To impart properties of attractive appearance,

supple handle, softness and good drape.

2. HIGH WEAR QUALITY: This refers to adequate tensile and abrasion

strengths, dimensional stability, crease recovery and freedom from pilling.

3. BODY PROTECTION AND COMFORT: This relates to proper heat

insulation, moisture absorption and air permeability.

4. SPECIAL EFFECTS: These include water-repellency, reduced

flammability, mildew and moth-proofing, anti-static behaviour and soil
release property.

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Finishing & | Wet
1) Wet Finishing Department

Process Flow Chart:

Singeing Unit

Mercerizing Unit

Stentering Unit

Wet Finishing Unit

I. Singeing Unit

Craddle Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Singeing Unit

Nip Unit

Outlet J Unit

Batching & Plaiting Unit

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Unit Specification-

 Capacity: 40-50 m/min

 Production: 41000-45000 m/ day

15000-17000 m/shift

 CNG Gas Burner

 90˚ Flame Interaction
 3 operator per machine
II. Mercerizing Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Caustic Impregnatorr

Stablizer Unit

Washing Unit

Acid Unit

Drying Zone

Outlet J Unit

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III. Stentering Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Chemical Padder

Foam Coating Unit

Cliping Unit

Chamber
CNG Fire
Blower
Heat Setting

Coling Drum

Outlet J Unit

Batching Unit

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Wet Finishing Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Chemical Padding

Nip

Width Adjusting line

Skew line

Mahalo Unit

Dry Stack Section 1 & 2

Rubber Unit

Palmer Unit

Outlet J Unit

Batching Unit

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 Denim IncubationTEXTILE
Department
INTERNSHIP
| Design Team

DID is a critical unit for the innovation and creativity that Arvind mills
projects. The department has been constituted in such a manner that it
has 2 parts-

 The Design Team

 The Technical Team

Design Team:

 The design team has a constant responsibility of re-innovating denims.

 It consists of fashion consultants from Europe and other countries
along with the textile experts and textile designers.
 The team works together to create a completely different denim design.
Though it seems like innovation in design in denims has limited
scope, this group of professionals use their creativity and
constant thinking skills to come up with unprecedented designs.
 They follow trends, customer feedback and various trends in the
various parts of the world, research it and come up with innovative
ideas.
 These new designs are featured in fashion shows across the globe,
for top fashion experts to see and review, and hence maintain
the exclusiveness of denim produced by Arvind Mills.
 Top designers like Calvin Klien, Chanel etc. and brands like
Zara, Abercrombie and Fitch, Mango, Gap and many others,
select these designs and order them to be produced in
mass.

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  The designs can be created by changing one of the
following characteristics of the fabric:

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

 Weave of the fabric:

o (denim is usually 3 x 1 twill)- variations are made in twill
weave or by changing the nature of the weave all
together. Like 2X1 or other variations

 The d┞i ﾐ g proIedure’s output:

o (usually done with indigo and sulphur dyes) – the dying
can give colour effects to the fabric. Different
compositions of
dyes are used and innovations and creativity in the use
of colors, produces more number of designs.
Sometimes the weft and the warp are of different
dyes, creating an iridescent effect. Though traditionally
blue or black, many other colours of denims are
created

 Fiber Used:
o Authentic denim uses cotton fiber, but for design
variations cotton blends are used. Light weight yarns like
polyester are used to manufacture denim used in
garments like jeggings and lighter weight denim
requirements. Most popular addition to denim fabric is
Lycra for streatchability as that is a prominent feature
of jeans. Most recent type of denim

added to the denim family of Arvind is E┝Iel de ﾐ i ﾏ(┘orld’s

softest denim)*.

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

 Finishes Applied:
o Fabrics can be re-innovated in terms of the type of
finish applied, Now-a-days, there are a variety of finishes
that can be applied to any fabric and same goes for
denim. Usually mercerization is a process not done for
denims, as it does not require very soft and smooth
fibers, but inclusion of finished like mercerization or
resin finish, can completely change the look and feel
of the fabric. Other aesthetic finishes, like partial
napping or emerization, anti-crease finish, permanent
creases by resin finish can be given.

*The faH�iI, け E┝Iel De ﾐ i ﾏ s げ, ┘ould He ﾏ a ﾐ ufaItu�ed i ﾐ A�┗i ﾐ d G�oup げ s p�oduItio ﾐ

facility in Ahmedabad, which has a capacity of 120 million metres of fabric per
annum. While Birla Cellulose would be involved in the R&D to create the fibre
made of super refined wood pulp, Arvind would be manufacturing the fabric
and selling them both in the domestic and international markets.

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 Denim IncubationTEXTILE
Department
INTERNSHIP
| Design Lines

The following are a few lines of denim that have been developed
and new products are added to it every day:

 Kato (Japanese denim line):

o Kato brings in the authentic attributes of denim in collections,
fabrics mostly made on the shuttle loom and with selvedge.
 ADL (Arvind Denim Lab):
o The ADL line is specifically for the US brands. The s/s 2014
collection has special attractions in the form of colour denims,
indigos with colour fills andsummer lights in excel along with
the authentic core line
 Euroline (European denim line):
o The Euroline is specifically for the brand needs inEurope. The
s/s 2014 collection has an introduction of shades like pink, sky
blue but in a grading of color.
 Metro (Indian denim line):
o The ﾏ et�o li ﾐ e is desig ﾐ ed H┞ A�┗i ﾐ d げ s i ﾐ-house design
team specifically for Indian brands. The collection has the flavor
of a true
Indian denim. We have also recently launched a collection in Excel
called Excel Denim in collaboration with Birla Cellulose. It will be
the

┘o�ld げ s softest de ﾐ i ﾏ.

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

Denim Incubation Department

-- Innovation Pipeline Denims
A�┗i ﾐ d げ s Desig ﾐ depa�t ﾏ e ﾐ t is al┘a┞s high o ﾐ ﾐ e┘ de┗elop ﾏ e ﾐ ts i ﾐ the de ﾐ i ﾏ
world and always has number of projects under the innovation pipeline which
are yet to be tested and finalized for the season breaks accordingly. Few of
those projects are-

 SPIES
o Ecru fabric with only warp dyed yarns which are
chemically treated during spinning.
 NEO
o Richer. Deeper denim shade for wash explorations.
 KHADI
o Premium line of denim. Hand spun, hand woven. Fantastic
look, drape, fall. On the principle of sustainability.
 JACQUARD
o Various shades of denims and fabric types brought in together
for one fabric and different look.
 RING

 LINEN
o 100% linen in 3x1 weave for better sheen, drape etc.
Again a premium line

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 Denim Incubation Department
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
| Technical Team

 The technical team of the development and new technology team

aims at developing the fabric as per customer requirements.
 They have technicians and fabric experts who constantly work
together and collaborate with each of the processing units to get
the desired output of the fabric.
 Then, they calculate/concur and document the exact procedures
and processes to be followed to create the fabric exactly matching
customer requirements.
 Once the processes have been determined by the DNTG
department, they are delegated to the individual units for mass
production.
 The DID DEPARTMENT at Arvind mills has a database of more
than 8000 fabrics, that have been created for all kinds of uses. The
designs range from all kinds of usage of yarn, to differentiation
based on any of the factors mentioned above.
 Customers and designers may choose out of this data base to
order in bulk, The data then goes to PPC department, that is
production Planning and Control and the mass production of fabrics
start.
 Collection development is done at least one year in advance and
presented on a road show/ramp show for the buyers to see and
order. These shows contain 30-35 pieces each o the type of
fabric characteristic being showcased.

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There are basically two ways this whole process works:

 Collection Development
 Customer Development

Technical department takes care of the re production and du-pro problems of

the ongoing batches also.

 Consistency/Reproducibility
 Feed/Stock
 Machines Used
 Process Followed

All of the above mentioned factors are taken care by the DID right
from the beginning of the collection development till the marketing
stage.

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DID

Customer Collection
Development Development

Innovation and Process Upgradation

Approval/Confirmmation from the CEO

Testing of Physical Properties

Washing

Spinning (Yran slub characteristics etc)

Dye Stuf (dye style, shade etc)

Weaving (Constrction and Selevedge)

Finishing (Process and Sequence, OD,

printing/coating)

Inspection

QA for Testing- Sampling

Comercialisation of the fabric chart

prepared

Cost Upgradation- Final Costing

Marketting

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 QUALITY ASSURANCETEXTILE
ANDINTERNSHIP
STANDARDISATION

Arvind is committed at providing the best quality of fabric to the consumers

for over 80 years now. The quality control is an integrated process that
starts when the customer gives the order, and the DNTG develops the
samples accordingly, it is checked for quality assurance measures and
compliances with customer needs. At later stages the fabric is inspected and
testing of parameters of fabric is done.

Essentially there are 2 major parts of quality assurance:

Inspection department uses 13 Kitamura Machine to find such defects in fabric

The inspection frame is aligned at an angle between 45 and 60 degrees.
Speed of fabric on inspection m/c: 25m/min Light: 100 Lux
Inclination570

Cost of inspection : Rs. 0.65/mtr

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Arvind follows 100 percent inspection procedures. The acceptance level of the
fabric depends on the customer preferences.

There are two inspectors to keep continuous watch on fabric for finding the
defects. The 4-point grading system indicates that as per customer
requirement defects are allowable upto their levels. We have observed that in
VF brand the 4- point allowable are only 4 that is total 16 defects per 135-
meter roll.

4-point grading system is used for inspection of fabrics and this includes:

Size of defect Penalty Points

ンざ o� less 1 Point

ン.ヱざ to ヶ 2 Points
ざヶ.ヱざ to Γ
3 Points
ざ Mo�e tha
ﾐΓ ざ 4 Points

Holes or Openings(Largest
Dimension)
ヱざ o� less 2 Points

Mo�e tha ﾐ ヱざ 4 Points

No penalty points are recorded for minor defects.

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 QUALITY ASSURANCE & STANDARDISATION
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
| DEFECTS

Major Defects are classified as follows:-

 Major woven fabric defects such as slubs, holes, missing yarn,

conspicuous yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, and wrong yarn.
 Major knitted fabric defects are mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner,
needle line, barre, slub,hole, press off.
 Major dyeing or printing defects are print out, dye spots, machine
stop, color smear or shading.

Fabric containing more than 40 points per 100 square yards is

considered as SECONDS .

At the beginning of the month the inspection department gets the

production plan for the entire month and they plan their procedures
accordingly. The finishing department gives the material transfer note
to the inspection department where the material is checked for the
following defects:

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Spinning related Defects:

 Warp Slub
 Weft Slub
 Thick end
 Coarse/fine weft
 Weft bar

Weaving preparatory related defects

 Knot
 Slack end
 Ball formation
 Size patches

Weaving related defects

 Starting mark
 Tight end
 Weft float
 Knot
 Moiré
 Repaired warp
 Double end

Bowing and Skewing

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

Check for skewed, bowed and biased fabric. For this purpose check the
bowing and s skewing at every 10 meters.
The bowing and skewing are calculated as follows:

Bow: A bow is an uneven deviation of a weft from a line drawn

perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric.

A bow may have different forms:

If the average Bowing or Skewing for a roll is more than 2-3%, reject the roll.

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TESTING

Physical Testing:
The samples are tested for/by:

 Yarn evenness: USTER TESTER 5

 Statex CSP(cascade strength tester) system:
 Yarn count and strength
 Single yarn tester
 Instron 4465:
 Tensile Test for fabric
 Elemendorf Tearing Strength:
 Tearing strength check by application of 9000g force
 Chatillon Stiffness Tester
 Resistance to bending
 Paramount humidity checker
 For humidity control
 Stretch/elongation test
 Weight of 1.35 kg applied on a designated swatch sample
for half an hour
 Dimensional Stability and skew movement test
 Shrinkage test
 Measure shrinkage after washing thrice + conditioning
 Ozone test chamber by USA inc.
 Snarl indicator
 Twist tester
 Statex (14.4 tpi)

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Chemical testing

Tests requested by preferred customers:

LEVI’s Test method

Ph ISO-3071

Crocking AATCC-8 SPOT TEST SI 1005

Water Repellency ISO 105-E01

Acid ISO 105-E02

Alkali ISO 105-E04

POLO method

Ph ISO-3071

Crocking ISO 105*12

WATER repellency ISO 105-E01

Acid ISO 105-E02

Alkali ISO 105-E04

Washing C06-AIM

SPOT TEST SI 1005

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Chemical Tests Conducted in the lab:

o Raw Material checking like dyeing/finishing auxhillaries

 Basic chemical.
 Percentage of purity of Hydros, Caustic acid, peroxides etc
 Purity performance of dyes like indigo, vat sulphur
 Auhilaries like wetting agents, sizing, finishing etc
o Stock Weight of indigo (gpl)
 Brandsbender moisture tester (105 degree c. for 4 hrs)
o Weighing balance
 Mettler Toledo
o Crockmeter
 AATCC
o Formldehyde content in dye/stock bath
o Thermo orion pH meter
o Launder-O-meter
o ATLAS crockmeter
o Genesys 10 spectrophotometer
o Muffle furnace
o Cintex incubator
o EEC beaker dyeing machine
o USA ozone test chamber
o Flamability tester

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Shade testing:

 The software used for shade testing is EASY MATCH.

 HunterLab's EasyMatch QC software gives unprecedented flexibility

to process, display, analyze and report color measurement
results.

 Color measurement and analysis software reports absolute and

color difference data in all widely used color scales, for various
lighting and observing conditions. Pass/Fail functions provide fast
go/no-go decisions.

 Data can be reported numerically in tabular or spreadsheet form.

 Data can also be graphically displayed as color difference plots, trend

plots and spectral curves.

 All results can be viewed, stored, printed or imported into your

database programs.

 The software uses a spectrophotometer to record observations, and

plots deviations from avg and perfect sample for each roll.

 It also provides pass and fail options for rolls that deviate too much
from normal value making it very easy for the operator to assure
quality and minimize shade variation.

 It also helps in shade wise differentiation and categorization of rolls. So

that the consumer may be able to easily distinguish between lots of
various shades

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PACKAGING AND

* The final step is now to OK the batch/lot for shipping and send to the
packaging dept so as to put on the required details and ship the
consignment.

The details that need to be present on the packaging are:

 Shipment no.
 Date
 Sort no
 F.M.C

Rolls of approximately 135m each is sealed by polythene.

Spec. of polythene cover: Plastic bags of 23 micron used

 Code no
 Meters
 Flags/points
 Opt no.

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
ACCREDITATION

 ISO 9001:2000 by BVQI (India) Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai-India, for

Manufacture and Supply of Denim Fabrics.

The ISO 9000 family of standards is related to quality management

systems and designed to help organizations ensure that they meet
the needs of customers and other stakeholders [1] while meeting
statutory and regulatory requirements related to the product.

The ISO 9001:2000 version sought to make a radical change in

thinking by actually placing the concept of process management
front and center ("Process management" was the monitoring and
optimisation of a company's tasks and activities, instead of just
inspection of the final product).

 IS0 14000:
Provides environment management standards to help
organisations minimize their negative impact on the
environment
Environment Management System (EMS) mandatory
Certification carried out by third party
Focuses on process as in case of ISO 9000

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 Oeko-Tex Standard 100 by Shirley Technologies Ltd., UK, for Black

and Indigo dyed denim fabrics, black / indigo printed denim fabric –
including stretch denims.
The Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and
certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end
products at all stages of production.
The tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are
prohibited or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be
harmful to health, and parameters which are included as a
precautionary measure to safeguard health.

 さ“kal I ﾐ ter ﾐ atio ﾐ al “ta ﾐ dards for “ustai ﾐ aHle Te┝tile ProduItio ﾐざ by
Control Union Certifications, The Netherlands, for Processing of
organic cotton.

 さ GloHal Orga ﾐ iI Te┝tile “ta ﾐ dards ざ, Control Union

Certifications, The Netherlands, for Processing of fibres from
certified organic agriculture.

 Le┗i’s strauss Laboratory Certification by Levi Strauss & Co., Test

Methods and conditions set forth, Denim Laboratory, The Arvind
Mills Ltd.

 ISO-17025 NABL – National Accreditation Board for Laboratories,

Delhi, India, for Chemical & Mechanical disciplines of testing.

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

 Premier Accreditation Scheme by Marks & Spencer, Test Methods

and conditions set forth, Laboratory, Shirting Division Business, The
Arvind Mills Ltd.

 Liz ClaiHo�ﾐ e I ﾐ t げ l Ltd., Testi ﾐ g audit pe�fo�ﾏ a ﾐ Ie, LaHo�ato�┞, “hi�ti ﾐ g

Business Division, The Arvind Mills Ltd.

 Labs are certified by DUPONT (LYCRA).

.

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Project Report | Brief

 Project Title
o A�┗i ﾐ d げ s I ﾐ┗ol┗e ﾏ e ﾐ t I ﾐ Bette� Cotto ﾐ I ﾐ itiati┗es

 Objective
o Introduction to BCI
o A�┗i ﾐ d げ s I ﾏ ple ﾏ e ﾐ tatio ﾐ of BCI No�ﾏ s
o Quality Analysis of BCI-Bunny Brahma & Bunny
Brahma Cotton

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 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

 Methodology
o Secondary research
 Understanding of BCI and its Norms.
o Primary Research
 Data Collection
 Quality Analysis of BCI bunny Brahma Cotton
 Quality Analysis of Bunny Brahma Cotton
o Analysis of the differences between BCI-Bunny
Brahma & Bunny Brahma Cotton
o Conclusion

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 Better Cotton Initiative
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| Introduction

INTRODUCTION

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is primarily focusing on the following :

 To demonstrate the inherent benefits of BC production, particularly
the financial profitability for farmers.
 To reduce the impact of water and pesticide use on human and
environmental health.
 To improve soil health and biodiversity.
 To promote Decent Work for farming communities and cotton farm
workers.
 To facilitate global knowledge exchange on more sustainable cotton
production.
 To increase the traceability along the cotton supply chain.

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KEY FEATURES
FACTS & FIGURES
 Producers need to meet the Minimum
• ヴ 90,000 MetriI To ﾐ s
Production Criteria which are the initial of Better Cotton was
core requirements, to receive a license to produced on 435,000
produce BC. hectares by 90,000
farmers in 2011-12.
 Minimum Production Criteria (MPC) are
the starting point in a cycle of continuous • BCI ﾏ e ﾏ Hers represe
ﾐ ts o┗er ヵ% of the ┘orld
improvement required by BCI. Once MPC げ s total consumption.
are met, producers have to address
• 2 ヴヶ ﾏ e ﾏ Hers Hy the
Progress Requirements. end of 2012.
 BCI aims to transform cotton production
worldwide by developing BC as a
sustainable mainstream commodity. There is
not BC label on final products.
 A major partner speeding up the
production of BC is the BC Fast Track
Program. Leading BCI brands as well as a
number of public sector funders contribute
to the BC Fast Track program, which
channels funds directly to farmer training
and improvement programs, all designed
around the BC standard. This allows BCI
and its partners to reach more regions,
train more farmers and produce more
cotton.
 BCI membership focuses on enabling
positive change in the field, supporting
supply creation, building public support
and demonstrating market place demand for
BC as a mainstream commodity.

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The Better Cotton System

The Production Principles and Criteria cannot operate in isolation, and form
part of the BC System. This BC System is made up of the following inter-
dependent components, each as important as the other in making the
system effectively deliver its objectives:

• Production Principles and Criteria to provide a global definition of BC

• Farmer Support to promote enabling mechanisms at a local and global level,

working with experienced implementing partners, and stimulating public-private
partnership funds to implement these mechanisms

• Farm Assessment to encourage farmers to continuously improve,

through measuring results and seasonal learning cycles

• Supply Chain connecting supply with demand through an identifiable

bale of 100% BC lint

• Monitoring, Evaluation and Learning mechanisms to measure progress

and change and to ensure the BC System has the intended impacts on
its direct beneficiaries

• Tools, guidelines and learning forums to facilitate the exchange of best

practices and knowledge to encourage the scaling up of collective action

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PRODUCTION PRINCIPLES

 BC is produced by farmers who minimize the harmful impact

of crop protection practices
 BC is produced by farmers who use water efficiently and care
for the availability of water
 BC is produced by farmers who care for the health of the soil
 BC is produced by farmers who conserve natural habitats
 BC is produced by farmers who care for and preserve the quality
of the fiber
 BC is produced by farmers who promote decent work

CRITERIA FOR ASSESSMENT

 Pass and fail:

Producer need to respect Better Cotton Minimum Production Criteria
in order to get a license to produce BC. The BC system aims at
continuous improvement. It is not organized as a simple pass or fail
system but goes beyond by integrating elements of capacity building,
data management, and progress.

 What happens if non-conformity is found?

At least 80% of the farmers in Learning Group must comply with all
relevant BC criteria in order for the group to get a license to produce
BC. Where a systematic breach of a Minimum Production Criteria is
observed, the whole Producer Unit may be disqualified.

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 Does the initiative offer incentives for continuous improvement?

After meeting the Minimum Production Criteria, BC farmers have to meet
け P�og�ess ‘e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts げ. These progress requirements are presented in the
“ta ﾐ da�ds Map dataHase as け Mediu ﾏ-te�ﾏ �e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts げ.

AUDIT INFORMATION

 1st, 2nd, 3rd party certification:

The BC assurance system is a combination of self-assessment, second
party credibility checks and third party verification.
 Frequency of audits: Yearly
 Validity of audit certificate: One year.

PRODUCTS TRACEABLITY ALONG THE SUPPLY CHAIN

One of the key elements of the supply chain for BC is the creation of
100% BC bales, meaning that BC is segregated from farm to gin.

 Chain of Custody standard

BCI will create a 100% BC bale, and connect the supply of BC to
demand, putting in place a supply chain system that facilitates the
procurement of BC.

USE OF LOGO ON THE FINAL PRODUCT?

No

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SUPPORT

To help farmers adopt practices consistent with the BCI Production Principles,
BCI coordinates a program of farmer support activities delivered through
experienced Implementing Partners.

Farmers support covers knowledge sharing and skills development and

effective producer organization For Implementing Partners, three of the BC
System components focus on support. BCI provides a Step by Step Guide
to Implementation for both smallholders and large farms and annual workshops
that help companies understand and implement the BCI program.
Applications for financial grants can be submitted twice a year through an
online form. The funding contribution matches up to a maximum of 50% of
the total project cost.
Members receive supply chain support from dedicated supply chain
coordinators, as well as Secretariat and Council support through Caucus calls,
BCI hosted events and webinars.

COSTS

 Membership fee: The membership fee is based on member category,

size and either annual lint cotton consumption, annual
turnover/income, or whether the organization is based in an OECD
Country or a non-OECD country.
 Certification costs: Third party verification costs are born by large
farms or by BCI in the case of smallholders.

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THE BCI STANDARD SYSTEM IS APPLICABLE TO PRODUCERS IN THE

FOLLOWING COUNTRIES AND REGIONS:

ASIA China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan

AFRICA Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Mali, Senegal, Togo

SOUTH AMERICA Brazil

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Areas Covered by BCI standard system:

 Immediate Requirement:
The BCI さ Mi ﾐ i ﾏ u ﾏ P�oduItio ﾐ C�ite�ia ざ fo�ﾏ the i ﾐ itial Io�e
�e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts fo� fa�ﾏ e�s to g�o┘ さ Bette� Cotto ﾐざ. These
criteria are presented in the “ta ﾐ da�ds Map dataHase as さ I ﾏﾏ ediate
�e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts ざ.

 Medium-term requirement:
The BCI さ P�og�ess ‘e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts ざ fo�ﾏ a ﾐ additio ﾐ al set of
�e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts that fa�ﾏ e�s, afte� ﾏ eeti ﾐ g the さ Mi ﾐ i ﾏ u ﾏ
P�oduItio ﾐ C�ite�ia ざ must complete with a minimum number of
additional benchmarks within the
following 3 growing seasons, while of course maintaining compliance to the
さ Mi ﾐ i ﾏ u ﾏ P�oduItio ﾐ C�ite�ia ざ. These p�og�ess �e ケ
ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts a�e p�ese ﾐ ted i ﾐ the “ta ﾐ da�ds Map
dataHase as さ Mediu ﾏ-term
�e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts ざ.

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OVERVIEW OF REQUIREMENTS:

EXPLANATION:

 Critical:
The BCI け Mi ﾐ i ﾏ u ﾏ P�oduItio ﾐ C�ite�ia げ fo�ﾏ the i ﾐ itial Io�e
�e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts fo� fa�ﾏ e�s to g�o┘ け Bette� Cotto ﾐげ. These
I�ite�ia a�e p�ese ﾐ ted i ﾐ the “ta ﾐ da�ds Map dataHase as け
I�itiIal �e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts げ.

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 Medium term:
After meeting the Minimum Production Criteria, Better Cotton farmers
ha┗e to ﾏ eet け P�og�ess ‘e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts げ. These p�og�ess �e ケ
ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts a�e p�ese ﾐ ted i ﾐ the “ta ﾐ da�ds Map dataHase as け
Mediu ﾏ-te�ﾏ �e ケ ui�e ﾏ e ﾐ ts げ.

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BCI at Arvind | Introductio

As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to
develop models that make production of its most valued and most
extensively used raw material more sustainable. Which is why, Arvind
Agribusiness has initiated contract farming projects in Akola district of
Maharashtra State & Nizar Taluka in Tapi district of Gujarat State.

Aims of the Initiative

 Improve the farmer's productivity and income

 Develop environmentally sustainable business models
 Enhance the region's biodiversity
 Promote decent work ethics
 Develop a lasting social infrastructure & support system

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BCI at Arvind | Farm

Details of Project Akola Nizar Total

(Maharashtra) (Gujarat)

Project Since 2010 2011

No. of Villages 131 58 189
Total area covered (Ha) 15,000 10,400 25,400
No. of far ﾏ er’s He ﾐ efitted 3,000 2,600 5,600
No. of farm family members 15,000 13,000 28,000
benefitted
Employment generated (Farm workers) 45,000 40,000 85,000
Capacity (Bales of 165kgs) 35,000 40,000 75,000
Cotton Type Bunny/Brahma Sankar-6(SUP)

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BCI at Arvind | Contract

From the farm to the fashion industry, Arvind's approach to contract farming is extensive and
thorough.

Arvind plays a key role in every single process involved in this initiative.

 Infrastructure and capacity building:

This includes – research, collaborations with national & international organizations,
research institutions, etc. strong HR policies, capacity building for extension
activities.
 Building the right team:
A team of 105 field experts including agronomists, soil scientists, pest and disease
specialist and MSW (for carrying out decent work activities) are put in place.
 Training:
Highly qualified agronomists train and educate farmers about crop, nutrient, pest
and disease management, decent work ethics (no child labor, discrimination, gender
issues, etc.) and business models to improve productivity. Guidance material on
better management practices based on Better Cotton Production criteria is
developed.
 Technology and skill development:
Participatory Technology Development in collaboration with project farmers helps in
finding location-specific solutions.
 Monitoring:
Regular farm visits are made. Detailed farm records, soil tests, and constant
monitoring ensure a healthy crop. Validation work on better management practices is
carried out.
 Elimination:
Middle men are eliminated. Farmers are also introduced to dependable farm input
suppliers.
 Assured buy back:
Arvind buys the crop at market prices and guarantees Minimum Support Price. A
'Farm Gate' payment policy ensures that payments are made within seven

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BCI at Arvind | Contract
working days.

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BCI at Arvind | Benefi

 Managing the supply chain:

Arvind Agribusiness maintains a fully tracebale supply-chain and an extensive
management information system. It is involved in establishing an effective producer
organization, the segregation of better cotton, chain of custody procedures and
engagement with ginners and other organizations.

● ● ●

A HOLISTIC APPROACH
TO CONTRACT
FARMING WHERE THE
ECONOMIC, SOCIAL
AND
ENVIRONMENTAL
BENEFITS NOT ONLY
CO-EXIST BUT ALSO
AUGMENT EACH
OTHER.

● ● ●

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Economic benefits

 Reduced cost of production: The cost of production is reduced

through the collective purchase of farm inputs and better, economical
deals from suppliers.
 Better profitability: The need for middle men has been eliminated
as Arvind ensures that the produce is bought at the farmer's
door step.
 Better access to affordable finance: Dependence on local
moneylenders has also been reduced as farmers are encouraged to
deal with reliable financial institutions.
 Better nutrient, pest and disease management: Better management
practices ensure reduced use of inputs (like synthetic pesticides &
fertilizers
), untimely reducing the risk taken in synthetic pesticides handling and
application.
 Knowledge sharing and skill development: Farmers receive
practical knowledge on production principles that can decrease
the cost of production and increase profitability.
 Quality of fibre: From soil preparation to harvesting and segregating
better quality cotton at the farm gate, our agronomist are involved in
every process to ensure better quality cotton.

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Environmental benefits

 Water efficiency: The learning forums provide know how on using

water efficiently through micro irrigation.

 Soil health: Reduced use of pesticides, micro – irrigation and regular

soil tests ensure better soil health.

 Habitat conservation: The initiative helps to conserve their natural

habitat by minimizing the harmful effects of crop protection by
reducing use of pesticides.

Social benefits

 Decent work ethics: The initiative gives men, women and backward
classes equal employment and income opportunities (equal and
approved wages).

 Abolishing social evils: Social and cultural programmes are

regularly organized in order to create awareness about child
labour and gender discrimination. Presently, both the projects put
together employs 85000 farm workers both men and women.

 Building a healthy community: Internationally recognized health and

safety standards are followed. The initiative also works towards building a
strong social structure based on mutual cooperation and

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understanding.

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BCI at Arvind | Quality

Quality Parameters Akola Nizar (Gujarat)

(Maharashtra)
Length (Staple in mm) 29.0 + 29.0 +
Strength (Grams per 29.0 + 29.0 +
tex)
Micronaire 3.5 - 4.3 3.7 - 4.4

Grade Strict Middling Strict Middling

UBI Codes Upon Lifting Upon Lifting

Advantage Arvind 5% HVI Results 5% HVI Results

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BCI at Arvind | Results &

Comparison of BCI-BB and BB Cotton

90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10

0
UHM STR MIC UI SFI Elg (+b) Rd Inv% Trash M% Nep
L %
BB Cotton 4.12 5.28 8.62 81.6 7.9 6.7 8.1 76.6 1.94 23.7 9.43 31.48
BCI-BB Cotton 1.31 1.77 3.37 82.8 7 6.7 9 78.8 2.09 12.58 7.31 19.86

 UHML Upper half Mean Length (mm) (CV%)

 Str Strength (g/tex) (CV%)
 MIC Micronaire (mg/inch) (CV%)
 UI Uniformity Index (Avg.)
 SFI Short Fiber Index (Avg.)
 Elg Elongation (Avg.)
 +b Yellowness (Avg.)
 Rd Reflectivity (Avg.)
 Lint% Lint Percentage (Avg.)
 Inv% Invisible Trash Percentage (Avg.)
 Trash% Trash Percentage (CV%)
 M% Moisture Percentage (CV%)
 Nep Neps Length (CV%)

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BCI at Arvind | Conclusio

As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself
to develop models that make production of its most valued and most
extensively used raw material i.e. Cotton more sustainable.

Application of BCI Norms by Arvind has not only uplifted the lifestyle
of the workers under the BCI project but has also enhanced the overall
quality level of Cotton yarns since its quality is based on the uniformity level
of Cotton fibers.

The BCI Cotton has a much lower Coefficient of Variance despite

being manufactured in different areas than the normally procured cotton
from the same areas.

The uniformity index of BCI-BB is 88.8 as compared to the uniformity

index of BB i.e. 81.6 which is significantly lower than the BCI-Cotton and
affects its quality greatly.

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REFERENCE TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

WEB-REFERENCES

 www.arvindmills.com

 http://arvind-agri.com/bci.php

 http://www.bettercotton.org/

 www.garmento.org

 www.denimology.com

 www.cottoninc.com

BOOKS

 Fabric science –Glock and Kunj

 Fabric Finishing – J T Marsh

 Textile Science - B P Corbman

 Textile Science – Tortora

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