BONUS FULL SIZE pattern insert SPECIAL ISSUE

creating
with fabric
+ thread

32 SWEET

pattern
SEWING
projects

Amelia
coat
pillows +
MORE HOME ACCESSORIES
by Katrin Vorbeck
5COATS
STUNNING

Project photo on page 46; instructions

spotlight
on wool on page 85 of Stitch Winter 2012.
HOW TO SEW WOOL COATING
MAKING YOUR FIRST COAT
THE STORY OF AMERICAN WOOL

Winter 2012

With its ladylike lines and

exposed seams, this sweet coat
combines the best of edgy and
classical coating into one pretty
little retro package. The wide
collar lends a glam touch, and a
flattering fit works for many
figures.

Photo by Larry Stein

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page 1 of 42
 Winter 2012 cutting layout

56”-60”
fabric
XS, S

selvedges

B — side front A — center front

G — collar
F — lower sleeve cut 1

J — lower center front

I — lower side panel
D — side back bodice

E — sleeve 06-13-12
C — center back H — lower back
Amelia Coat
fold 56-60” fabric

M-L 2 7/8 yds

XL 3 yds

56”-60”
fabric
M, L, XL

selvedges
F — lower sleeve J — lower center
A — center front
B — side front front

G — collar
E — sleeve cut 1
I — lower side panel
D — side back bodice

C — center back H — lower back

fold

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page 2 of 42
 RIGHT FRONT RIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
cut 2 XXxx

XL

L
pattern

M
XS
WINTER 2012 S
M

S
L

XS
XL

Getting Started Basic techniques and terms

you’ll need to know for the pattern you have
XL

downloaded.
L

Assembling Full-Size Pattern Printout Pattern Symbols + Markings

XL
1 |
S

L
When prepar-
cut on fold

M
ing to print the pdf, Button + buttonhole
XS

S
make sure that you are placement marks Solid lines indi-

XS
printing it at 100% and cate buttonholes. A large open circle is
that there is no scaling. the button symbol and shows placement.
Check the settings for
page scaling (should be Test Square XS
S Cutting lines Multisize
“None”) and check the
2" 2" [5 5 cm] M
patterns have different cutting
preview to make sure L
XL cut on fold lines for each size.
that you will be printing
at full size. Make sure
that the box labeled Place on fold bracket This is
“Auto-Rotate and a grainline marking with arrows pointing
XS
Center” is unchecked to the edge of the pattern. Place on the
S
M (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS
fold of the fabric so that SKIRT
your finished
L RIGHT FRONT
XL another pdf reader, check for similar settings). piece will be twice the size of the pattern
|
2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, piece,cut 2 XXxx
without adding a seam.

XL
check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square

L
should be 2" × 2" (5 × 5 cm). Grainline The double-ended arrow

M
|
3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted should be parallel to the lengthwise
margin around each page.
grain or fold unless specifically marked
|
4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be
ASYMMETRICAL
1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up FOLDS
the rows andSKIRT
XL

is numbered match the

diagonal.
dotted lines together so they overlap.
RIGHT FRONT Tape the pages together.
L

Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern
cut 2 XXxx XS
Notches Notches are triangle-
S

is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol- S
M
XS

low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern. L shaped symbols used for accurately
XL
matching seams. Pieces to be joined will
Layout, Marking + Cutting Guidelines have corresponding notches.
1 |
Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace cut on fold
the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto Darts Dashed lines and dots mark
the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel.
darts. The dashed lines show where the
|
2 If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting stitching will be, and the dot shows the
cut two
on of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half,
fold XL
position of the dart point (signaling the
selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this

L
point, at the end of the dart, where your

M
S

technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the

stitching should end).

S
XS

project instructions if you are unsure.

|
3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together pattern dots Filled circles indicate
as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be
that a mark needs to be made (often on
cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.
the right side of the fabric) for placement
|
4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric of elements such as a pocket or a dart
with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless
point. Mark by punching through the pat-
a crosswise or bias grainline is present.
tern paper only, then mark on the fabric
cut on fold
|
5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric
through the hole.
unless otherwise noted.
|
6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project
Slash Marks A dashed line (some-
instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to
cut out of your fabric and interfacing. times appearing with pattern dots)
indicates an area to be slashed. Further
|
7 Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use
instructions for making the slash will be
pins to secure the corners as needed.
included in the pattern instructions.
|
8 Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.

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page 3 of 42
 Amelia
WINTER 2012
coat

1a 1b 1c 1d 1e 1f 1g 1h
AMELIA COAT

XS
S
M
L
XL

pa
sn
AMELIA COAT
D — SIDE BACK BODICE
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse

p
XS, S, M, L, XL t
on

a
sn
r fr
nte
ce

AMELIA COAT
I — LOWER SIDE PANEL
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse

2a 2b 2c 2d 2e XS, S, M, L, XL
2f 2g 2h

AMELIA COAT
C — CENTER BACK
cut 1 main on fold
XS, S, M, L, XL

AMELIA COAT

XS, S, M, L, XL
G — COLLAR
cut 1 main
cut on fold

center back
3a 3b 3c 3d 3e 3f 3g 3h
snap + snap + snap + snap +
button button button button

AMELIA COAT
A — CENTER FRONT
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse AMELIA COAT
XS, S, M, L, XL B — SIDE FRONT
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL
snap + snap +
button button
button button

t
on
r fr
te n
ce

on
utt b
+
ap
sn
4a 4b 4c 4d 4e 4f 4g 4h

n
tto
bu
+
ap
sn
AMELIA COAT
H — LOWER BACK
cut 1 main on fold
AMELIA COAT
XS, S, M, L, XL
F — LOWER SLEEVE
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL
cut on fold

5a 5b 5c 5d 5e 5f
AMELIA COAT
E — SLEEVE
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse AMELIA COAT
XS, S, M, L, XL J — LOWER CENTER FRONT
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL

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page 4 of 42
1a
AMELIA COAT

XS
S
M
L
XL
1b

AMELIA COAT
D — SIDE BACK BODICE
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL
1c
1d
1e

AMELIA COAT
I — LOWER SIDE PANEL
1f
1g

ap
sn

nt
r fro
n te
ce
 n

sn
ap
1h
2a
2b

AMELIA COAT
C — CENTER BACK
cut 1 main on fold
XS, S, M, L, XL

cut on fold
2c
2d
 I — LOWER SIDE PANEL
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse

2e XS, S, M, L, XL
2f
 2g

center back
AMELIA COAT
G — COLLAR 2h
cut 1 main
XS, S, M, L, XL
3a
snap +
button

snap +
button
3b
snap + sna
button bu

AMELIA COAT
A — CENTER FRONT
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL

button bu
 3c
snap + snap +
button button

snap +
button
button
3d
3e

AMELIA COAT
B — SIDE FRONT
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL
3f
ce
n te
r fro
nt
3g
 n
t to
bu
3h
+
ap
sn
4a
4b

AMELIA COAT
H — LOWER BACK
cut 1 main on fold
XS, S, M, L, XL

cut on fold
4c
4d
4e

AMELIA COAT
F — LOWER SLEEVE
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL
4f
 4g

o n
t t
bu
+
nap
s
 4h
s
5a
5b
AMELIA COAT
E — SLEEVE
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL
5c
5d
5e

AMELIA COAT
J — LOWER CENTER FRONT
cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL
5f