Khulna University of Engineering & Technology

Department of Leather Engineering

Course No: LE 3111

Course Title: Footwear Engineering Ⅰ

Submitted To: Submitted By:

Thuhin Kumar Dey Md. Mahfuz Rahman

Assistant Professor Roll: 1719018
Dept. of Leather Engineering, Year: 3rd
KUETDate of Submission: 02.07.2018 Term: 1st
 Basic Styles of Footwear
A footwear can be divided into 7 parts. They are-
1. Derby
2. Oxford
3. Casual
4. Court Shoe
5. Moccasin
6. Sandals
7. Boot
 1. Derby Shoe
Characteristics:
i. Tongue and vamp point are in same pattern.
ii. Derby lock is used.
iii. Sometimes there can be used tab which is
integral to apron.

Functions:
1. It is used in formal affairs.
2. Optimized for slimmer, sleek styles with minimal
stitch detailing.
3. The open lacing system makes the derby less
confining than other formal footwear.
 2. Oxford Shoe
Characteristics:
i. Tongue and vamp point are not in same pattern.
ii. Derby lock is not used.
iii. Sometimes there can be used tab which is
separate to the apron.

Functions:
1. Normally used with suit and tie for formal use.
2. These shoes are famous by their variation in
style.
3. The close lacing system makes less comfortable
than Derby shoe.
 3. Casual Shoe
Characteristics:

I. It covers up or fills up with the foot.

II. Sneakers, loafers are worn for casual shoe.
III. These are moccasin type and light weight.

Functions:
i. Generally young boys use it.
ii. Comfortable for daily use.
iii. It can be used as running functions.
iv. It can be used also for casual fashion.
 4. Court Shoe

Characteristics:
i. It is a shoe which has low cut front.
ii. It has a high heel.
iii. Generally fastening is not used and these shoes
are fitted to feet with consisting vamp only

Functions:
1. Normally used as ladies shoe.
2. Woman uses on different parties or occasions.
3. These aren't uncomfortable for toe-to-heel
forward motion.
 5. Moccasin Shoe
Characteristics:
i. There is no facing system in moccasin shoe.
ii. Has a tight gripping material.
iii. The sole of this shoe is joined by a puckered seam to
a U-shaped piece lying on top of the foot

Functions:
1. It is comfortable to wear.
2. These are closer to loafers and boat shoes.
3. Traditional, soft sole moccasins are known to be a
minimalist shoe.
 6. Sandals

Characteristics:
i. It is an open type footwear.
ii. Sandals are perfect for letting feet breath.
iii. The straps are constructed over the instep
sometimes around the ankle.

Functions:
i. It is comfortable to rough use.
ii. Give foot a relax feelings.
iii. It is free size to wear for casual fashion.
 7. Boot

Characteristics:
i. Boot cover the foot and ankle.
ii. It offers a light weight, support, stability.
iii. These are specially made for long lasting usage.

Functions:
i. Generally used in cold weather.
ii. Boot gives safety from different hard touch.
iii. It is also used for sport functions.
iv. It is mostly used by armed forced people.
SHOE UPPER
Parts of Shoe Upper

Basic upper of a shoe-

Vamp
Quarters
Top line
 Shoe Upper

Different upper parts of a shoe like as-

1. Vamp
2. Quarters
3. Counters
4. Appliques
5. Fastenings
6. Linings
7. Ornaments
 Vamp

Characteristics :
1. Vamp and tongue can be together or single.
2. Toe cap can be joint or single.
3. Vamp can be single piece, double piece or three piece.

Function:
1. Help to hold foot dimention.
2. In case of court shoe vamp help to hold the foot.
3. It keeps safe of the user’s toes.
 Quarter

Characteristics :
1. Fastening system is here.
2. It carries the eyelet.
3. Inside quarter can be less 3mm than outside
quarter.

Function:
1. Vamp is stitched with the quarter.
2. It covers the sides of a shoe.
3. Eyelets are inserted in the quarter where laces are
tided.
 Counter
Characteristics :
i. Counter joins the quarters from sides
ii. It is the back seam of the shoe
iii. It keeps the ankle protected.

Functions:
i. It gives more strength of the shoe.
ii. It keeps maintain the shape of the shoe.
iii. It helps to spread out the shoe pressure over the foot.
 Appliques
Characteristics:
i. They are pieces or patch of fabric in different shapes and
patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece.
ii. It is attached over the quarters.
iii. It covers the seam or gusset.

Functions:
i. It gives more strength of the shoe.
ii. It allows Reinforcement of the shoe.
iii. It makes the shoe more fashionable and desirable
 Fastenings
Characteristics :
i. The fastenings are basically designed on the basis of the
ages of different people
ii. It can be different types like lacing, Velcro, elastic etc.
iii. It holds together from one side to another side of the
shoe.

Functions:
i. It gives more comfort.
ii. It allows the user’s for tightening the shoe.
iii. It makes the shoe more durable and desirable.
 Linings
Characteristics :
i. Lining materials are generally made from vegetable tanned leather.
ii. The lining material is stitched to the shoe upper from the inside of
the shoe.
iii. The lining materials should be soft.

Functions:
i. It gives support inside part of the shoe.
ii. Linings make the shoe more user friendly and comfortable.
iii. Good quality linings make the shoe more strong and extend the
time of usage of the shoe.
Ornaments
Characteristics :
i. They are made of metal, plastic, glass etc.
ii. Usually these are used in ladies shoe.
iii. They are attached in the upper part of the shoe.

Functions:
i. Increase the beauty of the shoe.
ii. Attract the user.
iii. Give a gorgeous look.
 Insole
Characteristics :
i. The insole of the shoe is the first layer of the sole.
ii. It is directly contact with the foot.
iii. Attached with the upper of the shoe.

Functions:
i. The insole is responsible for cradling the foot.
ii. The insole is contoured and structured.
iii. Some insoles come with anti-microbial additives that
reduce the possibility of bacterial infections and shoe
smell.
 Sole
Characteristics :
i. Sole is divided into three main parts- the insole, outsole and
the midsole.
ii. The bottom of the shoe is known as the sole of the shoe.
iii. Shoe soles may be one-layer type or may be constructed
using multiple layers is an advanced way.

Functions:
i. It gives compact feel to the foot.
ii. It enables the user to walk and move around using the
shoes.
iii. It gives the shoe immense durability.
 Middle Sole

Characteristics :
i. It is present between the insole and the outsole of the shoe.
ii. It is padded with extra support under the heel portion.
iii. It can cover the entire length, three-quarters of the length, or
even a mere quarter of the length of the insole.

Functions:
i. It gives better cushioning of the shoe.
ii. The mid-sole ought to be abrasion, discoloration, and
perspiration resistant.
 Heel

• Characteristics :
i. The heel of the shoe is present at the rear of the shoe, at the bottom.
ii. The heel is made of a thick, piece of leather or rubber.
iii. It can be both flat and higher.

Functions:
i. It gives support and raise the rear part of the shoe.
ii. Heel cap helps to lock the foot in place.
iii. Top piece of heel maintains the friction between the shoe and the
ground.
 Welt

Characteristics :
i. It runs around the edges of the upper.
ii. On average, the welt is 60 centimeters long and 3
centimeters wide.

Functions:
i. It joins the upper to the shoe’s sole.
ii. It holds the shaft, insole and sole together.
iii. It increases the strength of the shoe.
 Bottom Filling

Characteristics :
i. It fills the hollow between the insole and the midsole.
ii. The filler is moulded by the warmth of the wearer's foot.
iii. It is attached with both sides of upper and lining material.

Functions:
i. Distribute weight across the foot.
ii. The filler muffles the wearer's tread.
iii. Protects foot from heat and cold.
 Runner
Characteristics :
i. It is included in the shoe bottom.
ii. It adds thickness in the sole.
iii. Sometimes it is covered with the figurative edge.

Functions:
1. It protects the foot.
2. It increases the strength of the sole.
 Toe Puff
Characteristics :
i. It is affixed to the shaft between the upper leather and
leather lining.
ii. It is given between toe cap and counter.
iii. It is made with quite hard type materials.

Functions:
i. It maintains the shape of the toes.
ii. The reinforced toe puff prevents the leather upper
from stretching out.
iii. It guarantees a stable form on both sides of the shoe.
 Stiffener
Characteristics :
i. It is made with quite hard type materials.
ii. It is affixed to the shaft between the upper leather and
leather lining.
iii. It is attached at the heel portion.

Functions:
i. It maintains the shape of the heel portion.
ii. The reinforced stiffener prevents the back part from
stretching out.
iii. It enables grip the foot.
 Shank
Characteristics :
i. Shank is a piece of metal.
ii. It is inserted between the insole and the outsole.
iii. It extends from the middle of the heel to the beginning of the
front of the foot.

Functions:
i. It provides extra propping to the shoe and gives the shoe the
desired structure.
ii. It reinforces the waist of the shoe.
iii. It guides the foot.
 Sock
Characteristics :
i. It usually bears the brand name.
ii. It directly contacts with the foot.
iii. It is made with the soft materials.

Functions:
i. It protects the foot from the friction.
ii. It covers the whole part of the insole.
iii. It absorbs sweat to keep the foot comfortable.
 Eyelets
Characteristics :
i. It is punched upper of the shoe.
ii. It is rimmed with metal or plastic for the holes to maintain their
shape.
iii. It can be different size.

Functions:
i. Small holes present on the upper of the shoe through which the
shoelaces can be looped through.
ii. It is knotted to firmly place the shoe on the user’s foot to keep the
tightness.
iii. It gives a gorgeous look to the footwear.
 Lace

Characteristics:
i. Shoelace typically passes through a series of holes, eyelets, loops or
hooks.
ii. Laces can be tied in different shapes, most commonly a simple bow.
iii. It can be made of fabric type materials.

Functions:
i. Loosening the lacing allows the shoe to open wide enough for the
foot to be inserted or removed.
ii. Tightening the lacing and tying off the ends secures the foot
firmly within the shoe.
iii. It also gives a gorgeous loo