Free Bookcase Plans 2010

The following bookcase plans are a collection of plans found freely available on the Internet.
The plans include:
1. Basic Pine Bookcase
Our pine bookcase, for example, features simple construction

and it's designed to be built with basic woodworking tools. Yet,
the finished project is a worthy and useful addition to any room
of the house. While it's meant to rest on the floor, you can
convert the bookcase to a wall-mounted storage unit by leaving
off the baseboard. You can secure the cabinet to the wall by
screwing through the cabinet cleats into the wall studs.
Reference:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworki
ng/1273111.html
2. Under window two shelf bookcase
This simple under-window two shelf unit is a useful little number!

The plans are pretty light-on instruction but provide a good
Reference:
http://woodworking.about.com/library/WoodworkingProjects/FreeB
ookcasePlans.pdf
3. Triangular Bookcase
This interesting upside down bookcase would make a good talking

piece at your house and it’s quite inexpensive to build.
Reference:
http://ourhouse.ninemsn.com.au/ourhouse/factsheets/db/intheworks
hop/01/182.asp
4. Narrow DVD Bookcase
A handy plan for a simple narrow book and DVD case.
Reference:
http://www.woodgears.ca/shelves/bookcase.html
5. Custom Bookcase with Curves
This little custom made bookcase has some nice

curves to it. A little more than your basic
bookcase but still nice and simple.
Reference:
http://www.leeswoodprojects.com/bookcase.html
6. Simple Rectangle Bookcase
This one is a really simple, straightforward plan for your basic

rectangle bookcase.
Reference:
http://www.bunnings.com.au/diy-
brochure.ashx/57/How_to_make_a_timber_bookcase.pdf?stateID=3
7. Playhouse Bookcase
This wooden playhouse bookcase is an interesting and

novel bookcase for the kids.
Reference:
http://www.leeswoodprojects.com/playhouse_bookcase.h
tml
8. The Booknook
Now this one won’t be easy, but how

awesome does it look? Probably for the
more advanced woodworker or those
willing to give it a go anyway! Made up of
a number of pieces it looks just great and
I’m sure would be put to good use in your
home.
Reference:
http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/m
ain/pdf/wb294-booknook.pdf
9. Stylish Mahogany Bookcase
This stylish bookcase is constructed of solid mahogany

and features details of pomele sapele veneer and wenge. The
case's finished back allows it to be used either against a wall or
in the center of a room as a partition.
Reference:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworki
ng/1273326.html?do=print
10. Trapezoid bookcase
This interesting Trapezoid bookcase is attractive, a little different and it

comes apart easily for transporting.
Reference:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00018.asp
11. Bookends
Ok, so this one isn’t technically a bookcase – hey, but its book
related. This one is a really simple quick and easy one for the
kids to make or for the absolute beginner woodwork!
Reference:
http://home.comcast.net/~tmlevandusky/PowWow-
woodworking/plans/bookends.pdf
Popular Mechanics http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworking/12731...
How To Build A Bookcase

BY ROSARIO CAPOTOSTO
Illustrations by George Retseck
Published in the May 2000 issue.
High-end furniture projects are great to dream about. But unless you have a well-equipped shop and some serious woodworking
experience to draw on, it can be difficult to turn the dream into a reality.
Not every piece of furniture needs to be a museum showpiece, though. Often a simple design does the job just as well and the
experience gained in completing it goes a long way toward making the next project even better.
Our pine bookcase, for example, features simple construction and it's designed to be built with basic woodworking tools. Yet, the
finished project is a worthy and useful addition to any room of the house. While it's meant to rest on the floor, you can convert the
bookcase to a wall-mounted storage unit by leaving off the baseboard. You can secure the cabinet to the wall by screwing
through the cabinet cleats into the wall studs.
We made the case out of materials available at most building-supply dealers and lumberyards, including 1/2 x 3/4-in. parting strip,
1 x 2, 1 x 4 and 1 x 10 common pine and 1/4-in.-thick lauan plywood. Assembly is quick and easy with glue and nails, and when
you're done with construction you have the option of a painted or clear finish.
As for basic tools, you'll need a portable circular saw, hammer, block plane, combination square, tape measure, metal rule, two
clamps, nail set and putty knife. Other supplies include glue, nails, sandpaper, wood filler and varnish or paint and shellac.
The specifications that follow will produce a bookcase with overall dimensions of 10 3/4 in. deep x 34 in. wide x 48 in. tall. While
the depth of the case is directly tied to the 1 x 10 stock, you can vary the height, width and shelf spacing to suit your needs. Keep
in mind, though, that extending the width of the cabinet may require the addition of central shelf supports.
Cutting the Parts

For precise crosscuts, first make a simple, self-aligning T-guide for your circular
saw. Cut a piece of 1/2-in. plywood to 2 1/2 x 24 in. and glue and screw it to a
roughly 12-in.-long piece of 1 x 4 pine that will serve as the crossbar of the T.
Center the plywood strip along the 1 x 4 and make sure the pieces are perfectly
square to each other.
Butt the crossbar of the T-guide against the edge of a piece of scrap lumber,
tack the guide in place and make a cut through the 1 x 4 with your saw base
guided by the plywood strip. Then, trim the 1 x 4 on the opposite side in the
same way. Now, the ends of the 1 x 4 can be aligned with layout lines on the
stock for precise cut positioning.
Begin construction by using a tape measure to mark the length of a side panel
on 1 x 10 stock, and lay out the cut line with a square (Fig. 1). The side panels
on our bookcase are 48 in. long.
Place the T-guide against the edge of the stock and align its trimmed end with
the cut line. Tack the guide in place and use your circular saw to make the cut
(Fig. 2).
To support your work during the cuts, use 2 x 4s spanning two saw-horses for a
temporary bench and clamp your work in place. Set your circular saw cutting
depth so the blade cuts about 1/8 in. into the 2 x 4s.
After both sides are cut to length, lay out and cut the five shelves to length to
suit the width of your bookcase. Our shelf length is 31 in.
Fig. 1 Mark the lengths of the bookcase

side panels on 1 x 10 lumber and use a
square to lay out the crosscut lines.
Rip the four lower shelves to 8 7/8 in. wide to allow for the thickness of the case
1 of 4 9/03/2010 8:56 PM
Fig. 2 With a T-guide cut to match your back. Clamp each shelf to the sawhorses and tack a straight strip to the work to
saw, align the end of guide with crosscut guide your circular saw (Fig. 3).
line. Tack guide to the work and then make Next, cut the 10 shelf-support cleats from lengths of 1/2 x 3/4-in. parting strip. Use a
the cut. handsaw to cut the pieces slightly oversize, then gang the pieces together with
masking tape. Mark the cut lines and use your circular saw and T-guide to cut the
cleats to 8 7/8 in. long (Fig. 4).
Because we varied the spaces between the shelves, the vertical back cleat lengths vary. Rough cut and mark the back cleats in
pairs. From the top down, the lengths are 8, 9, 9 1/2 and 11 1/4 in. When cutting the back cleats with the T-guide, first gang them
together so all the marks on one side align. After the cut, untape the cleats and reposition them so the marks on the opposite side
are aligned for the next cut.
Fig. 3 Use a straight strip as a guide when

ripping stock for the four lower shelves to 8
7/8 in. The top shelf remains a full 1 x 10.
Assembly
First mark the shelf cleat locations. Hook your tape measure to the top edge of a
side panel, extend the tape and place marks at the following dimensions: 3/4, 10 1/4,
20 3/4, 31 3/4 and 44 1/2 in. These marks indicate the top edges of the shelf cleats.
Transfer the marks to the other panel. Lay both side pieces edge to edge with the
marks on the outer edges and use a rule or straightedge to extend the shelf
locations across both panels at once (Fig. 5).
Use 2d nails and glue to attach the shelf cleats to the sides. Position the cleats so
they're flush with the front edges of the sides. Then, attach the vertical back cleats,
leaving a 3/4-in. gap at the bottom of each back cleat for a shelf (Fig. 6). The gaps
will help to keep the shelves aligned during assembly. Align the back cleats with the
back ends of the shelf cleats to provide the 3/8-in. recess for the back panel.
Fig. 4 After cutting shelf cleats oversize,

gang them together with tape, mark the cut
lines and trim with a T-guide and circular
saw.
Fig. 5 Butt sides together with shelf-

location marks on outer edges. Use a
straightedge to extend the shelf marks
2 of 4 9/03/2010 8:56 PM
across work.
To join the sides and shelves, first lay a side panel on a few 2 x 4s placed on the
floor. With a helper assisting, stand the shelves in position and lay the opposite side
on the shelf ends. Start a pair of 6d finishing nails at each shelf location so the
points just penetrate the shelves. Lift the side off and apply glue to the endgrain of
the shelves. Let the glue soak in for a few minutes, then apply a second coat. Follow
with a coat of glue on the sides and cleats. Replace the panel using the nail points to
align the shelves. Then drive the nails (Fig. 7) and set them below the surface.
After the first side is attached, grasp the sides at one end while your helper grasps
the opposite end and flip the assembly over. Secure the remaining side and check
that the case is square. If necessary, tack a diagonal brace across the back to hold it
while the glue sets. When the glue is dry cut a piece of parting strip to fit between
the two top cleats and under the top shelf. This piece will be set 3/8 in. in front of the
top shelf rear edge to provide room for the back panel. Glue and nail this long cleat
to the shelf.
Adding the Fascia
Fig. 6 Nail and glue shelf cleats and back
To fit the 1 x 2 fascia over the case front edges, first mark the stock for crosscutting.
cleats to the side panels. Note that cleats
Make the vertical pieces 48 in. long to match the sides and mark the horizontal
are recessed 3/8 in. from back edge of
members at 29 1/2 in. Rough cut the pieces to length and use the T-guide and
sides.
circular saw to trim them squarely to exact size.
Apply glue to one of the vertical members and nail it to the case so its edge is flush with the side. Then, add each horizontal
member with glue and nails, keeping the top edges flush with the shelf tops (Fig. 8). Finally, add the remaining vertical member
with nails and glue.
Fig. 7 Secure one side to the shelves with

glue and 6d finishing nails. Then flip the
assembly over and attach the other side.
Set all nails.
Use 1 x 4 stock for the front and two side baseboard pieces. Cut the length of each
side piece to 10 in. long and glue and nail the parts in place. Then, cut the front
baseboard piece to 34 in. long and secure it so its ends are flush with the side
pieces.
After the glue has dried, use a block plane to trim a chamfer around the top edge of
the baseboard. Plane the side pieces first, working from front to back to avoid
splitting the corners of the front piece. Then, plane the front piece to match. It helps
to lean the plane against the case to maintain a uniform angle (Fig. 9).
The final component is the case back. Lay out the cut lines on 1/4-in.-thick lauan
plywood. Tack a straight strip to the panel to serve as a guide for your circular saw
and cut the stock to size (Fig. 10). Attach the back panels to the case with glue and
1-in. finishing nails.
Fig. 8 Attach the 1 x 2 strips to the case

starting with a vertical member. Then, add
the horizontal pieces and the other vertical.
3 of 4 9/03/2010 8:56 PM
Fig. 9 Use a block plane to shape the

chamfers on the baseboard. Rest the plane
against the case to maintain a uniform
angle.
Finishing
First make sure all the nails are set below the surface. Use a putty knife to fill the nail
holes with wood filler and let the compound dry (Fig. 11).
Sand the entire bookcase with 120- followed by 220-grit sandpaper. Then, use a
sanding block and 220-grit paper to slightly ease all corners. Thoroughly dust off the
case with a tack rag.
If you plan to paint your bookcase, first apply two coats of shellac over each knot to
prevent the knots from bleeding through the final paint job (Fig. 12).
Then, prime and paint the bookcase according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Fig. 10 Cut the 1/4-in.-thick back panel to

size with a circular saw. Use a straight strip
as a guide when making the cuts.
Fig. 11 Use a nail set to drive all nails

below the surface. Then apply wood filler
over the nailheads with a putty knife.
Fig. 12 Apply shellac to any knots before

painting. This will seal the knots and
prevent sap from bleeding through.
4 of 4 9/03/2010 8:56 PM
Free Under-Window Bookshelf Plans
© 2006 Chris Baylor, licensed to About.com, Inc.



Triangular bookcase http://ourhouse.ninemsn.com.au/ourhouse/factsheets/db/intheworkshop/...
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Triangular bookcase
Shirl builds a striking upside-down bookcase which could
be the makings of an interesting reading corner.
Shopping
More In the Workshop >>
Search FACT SHEETS >>
Home
Fact Sheets
1
Shopping
Cut cedar into two pieces. One 1m (top) long and the other 600mm (bottom). Sand.
Resource Centre 2
Real Estate Mark the sides and front edges to be beveled on the cedar. On the top piece mark Electrical
60mm x 30mm and on the bottom piece 30mm x 30mm. Then using a power plane,
About Our House Home decor
cut a bevel edge along front and sides only, to allow the unit to sit flat against the
Feedback wall (see diagram A). Kitchenware
3 Party supplies
Cut the ply into strips, the first two 1.5m x 280mm (side panels) the rest will be used
Search for shelving so cut this into two pieces at 258mm x 2.4m.
4
Lay out the top and bottom of the unit on a flat surface balanced on their back edges
and place side panels in between. This is to work out the bevel angle for the top and
bottom of the side pieces. NB: Once you have the bevel angle for the sides it will be
the same for the shelves. Gardens
Receive the House
& Home 5 Make_It
Newsletter by After the sides have been bevelled , router out a 12mm x 8mm rebate on the back of Recycling
becoming a ninemsn each panel. Technology
member. 6 Kitchens
Mark out the shelves, cut and fit them with screws from the side. Screw the bottom in
place from underneath.
Already a member?
7
Turn the unit over and place lining boards in position on the back and cut as
required to fit the angled sides. After cutting the lining boards, fit them together and
place into the back as one piece. It should fit into the rebate and be flush with the
surrounds so it can't be seen from the side. Nail into place.
Recipe Finder
TO FINISH: Our House
Body of bookcase was whitewashed and top/bottom recycled timber will be

varnished.
Diagrams
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2 of 3 9/03/2010 9:06 PM
MATERIALS
1.6m recycled western red cedar 45mm x 290mm (found for free)
1.2m2 of V-joint pine lining boards 180mm x 12mm $15
one sheet of 15mm ply 2400mm x 1200mm $60
one pack 40mm wood screws $1.50
500ml varnish $15
500ml white wash paint $5
one pack 35mm nails $1.50
Tools
Circular saw
Power plane
Hand plane
Belt sander
Hammer
Screw gun
Router
Sliding bevel
TOTAL COST
The bookcase cost approximately $98 to make.
MORE INFO
Materials available at leading hardware stores.
Disclaimer
All Fact Sheets and other material on the Our House website are provided as a
general information service only and should not be relied upon as a substitute for the
advice of a properly qualified tradesman. Neither ninemsn nor its licensors (including
the Nine Network) assume or accept any responsibility for, and will not be liable for
the accuracy or appropriate application of any information whatsoever in any Fact
Sheet or other material on the Our House web site. Your use of the Our House web
site is governed by this disclaimer and the ninemsn's Terms of Use.
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3 of 3 9/03/2010 9:06 PM
Building a bookcase for DVDs http://www.woodgears.ca/shelves/bookcase.html
Building a bookcase for DVDs

A friend had the a spot in her basement where she wanted a
bookcase for her DVD collection of very specific dimensions.
I started with some boards of "pine shelving". This lumber is

fairly clear of knots, and planed smoother than construction
lumber would be.
I started by cutting the pieces for the bookcase's shelves to

length. The next step was to plane one edge of every shelf on
the jointer. That way, I was sure that one side of the shelves
was a straight edge, and free of any nicks. I planed a stack of
four of these at a time on the jointer.
After planing one edge, I ripped the shelves to the desired

width. Its easier and more precise doing this with the shorter
pieces.
I also planed and ripped the edges of the upright sides, though
these were much longer pieces, of course.
After cutting all the shelves, I put them side

by side, just to check that they were indeed
exactly the same width. The next step was
to mark the position for the dowel holes with
1 of 5 9/03/2010 9:10 PM
a marking gauge. I put for dowels in each

end of each shelf. I used two marking
gauges for this, and marked in from either
side, so that I could just leave the marking
gauges set and locked in their settings for
marking the uprights later.
The next step was to drill the holes for the

dowels in the ends of the boards. I jigged
up the drill press a little to make this easier.
The table served as a side-stop, while the
stack of scrap lumber on the base serves as
the support for the piece. That way, I only
needed to worry about aligning to the lines I
had scored in the ends of the boards, and
could use the depth stop on the drill to get
all the holes the same depth. With 8
shelves, and 4 holes on each end, that's 64
holes to be drilled, so it was worth jigging
up.
Once I had the holes all drilled in the shelf

boards, I put them side by side to see if I
might have drilled any of the holes a little
off. With them side by side, that sort of
thing would be easy to spot. Fortunately,
there wasn't any mistakes.
To mark the hole positions for the shelves, I

strung a tape measure along the boards to
form the bokkcase's upright, and put a tick
mark at all the heights where the dowel
2 of 5 9/03/2010 9:10 PM
lines would be.
Next I draw lines across the board with a

square, and then used the marking gauges
to mark a tick for the position of every hole.
After marking the positions, I used a center

punch to mark the hole positions a little
deeper. This made it it easier to get the drill
in the right position on the drill press.
The for center punching all the holes was

because it helps to align the holes with the
board on the drill press, which was not so
easy when balancing the big board on the
small drill press table.
The next step was to glue all the shelves to

one of the uprights...
And clamp them. Being sure

to check each shelf with a
square to make sure its
perpendicular to the upright.
3 of 5 9/03/2010 9:10 PM
I also cleaned up the glue squeezeout from each joint once I had clamped it.
After giving the glue a few hours to dry, it

was time to glue the other upright to the
shelves. This is where it got a little bit tricky.
sanded each dowel to have a bevel on the

top end (to form a bit of a cone), to make it
easier to align the shelves to them. I then
glued them into the board that goes upright.
Next was to put glue into the holes on the
shelves, plus a line of glue across the end
of the boards. I also put a drop of glue on
the tip of each dowel for good measure.
After that, it was time to mate the parts of

the bookcase. I picked up the part with the
shelves attached, and placed it over the
board which already had the dowels glued
in. I started by making sure the dowels on
one end went in, and clamped it loosely.
Then I worked towards the other end, shelf
by shelf, making sure the dowels are in. Once I got the dowels all in their respective holes. I put a
clamp at every shelf to make sure everything was pressed together nice and good.
With the glue starting to dry while I did this, this has to proceed quickly, and so I didn't have time to
take photos of this step, unfortunately.
The bottom-most shelf, I just nailed to the bottom. I wanted it to go

across the bottom of the uprights, instead of between the uprights,
like the other shelves, because it has to support the weight of the
whole bookcase. With it being attached to the bottom, the nails
heads aren't visible from a usual vantage point, so I just nailed it to
the bottom.
And finally, to make the base, I glued three

pieces of 2x4 that I planed down a little. The
base is open to the back, and the sides are
rabbeted into the front.
The purpose of the base is to raise the main

part of the bookcase above the baseboards,
so that it can be slid fully against a wall.
I then glued this base to the bottom of the
4 of 5 9/03/2010 9:10 PM
shelf, though I also nailed it diangoally from

the back, just to be on the safe side.
19" Cabinets & Open Racks Melbourne warehouse racks DIY Gazebos Specialists
Industrial, Wall Cabinets and more Long span racking and shelving. Colourbond, Shingle,Rosewood,
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Related articles:
Same hself, but built with Hidden dado joints
Building Basement shelving
Building a Corner shelf
To my Woodworking website
5 of 5 9/03/2010 9:10 PM
How to Build a Wood Bookcase
Free Woodworking Plans from Lee's Wood Projects
Every home should have a place for books,

Click on The Drawing to See Full Size photo albums and other items of personal and
professional interest. What better way to display
these treasured items than with a beautiful
custom made bookcase. Whether it's located in
a den, office, bedroom or family room, a
bookcase will organize your life while adding a
touch of class to your home. Lee's Wood
Projects will show you how to build a wood
bookcase in no time at all.
Technical Information for Building a Wood Bookcase
A . Materials List:
QUANTITY LETTER NAME SIZE MATERIAL

1 A Top ¾" x 13" x 32" Oak
2 B Sides ¾" x 12" x 48 1/2" Oak
1 C Top Shelf ¾" x 9 3/4" x 30 ½" Oak
3 D Shelves ¾" x 10 1/4" x 30 ½" Oak
1 E Bottom ¾" x 4" x 30 ½" Oak
3 F Shelve Fronts ¾" x 1 ½" x 30 ½" Oak
2 G Vertical Fronts ¾" x 2 ½" x 44" Oak
1 H Backing ¼ " x 31 ¼ " x 38 ¾" Oak Ply.
8 Shelf Supports Metal
B. Patterns:
1. Design and cut-out desired patterns for parts (A) (B) & (D) on poster board.
C. Cutting Procedure:
1. Use planer to mill lumber to ¾" thickness.

2. Use table & radial arm saws to cut lumber to proper widths & lengths.
3. Trace patterns (A) (B) & (D) onto lumber, cut shapes using a band saw, and finish using a
drum sander.
4. Route top of parts (A) & (B) using a 1" Rounding-Over Bit.
5. Route top edge of parts (F) and (E) using a 1 1/16" Roman-Ogee Bit.
6. Route inner edge of parts (G) using a 1 1/16" Roman-Ogee Bit.
7. Use a 3/8" half-round router bit to make two flutes 1" apart on-center and 32" long in each
vertical front (G), starting 6" from the top and ending 6" from the bottom.
8. Use a band saw to cut a ¾" x 44" notch in the front edge of sides (B) to fit the vertical fronts
(G) into place.
9. Drill 9/16" holes 3/8" deep into the insides of parts (B) for adjustable shelve supports. Space
holes 2" apart.
10. Use a band saw to cut a ¾" x 5 ½" notch in both ends of part (A) to fit sides (B) into place.
11. Use a table saw to cut ¼" x 3/8" rabbet joints into the back of the sides (B), bottom of top (A),
top of bottom shelf (D) to position oak plywood backing (H).
12. Cut ¼" plywood backing (H) to proper size after (assembly) is complete.
D. Sanding Procedure:
1. Rough sand all parts of the wood bookcase using an orbital sander and 80 grit sand paper.
2. Intermediate sand using 120 grit sand paper.
3. Finish sand using 220 grit sand paper (during finish procedure).
4. Hand-sand all edges to desired finish.
E. Assembly Procedure:
1. Glue and nail vertical fronts (G) onto sides (B). Flush at the bottom.
2. Glue and nail shelf front (F) onto the top shelf (C).
3. Glue and nail shelf fronts (F) onto the two middle shelves (D).
4. Glue and nail the bottom (E) onto bottom shelf (D).
5. Glue and nail the sides (B) onto the top and bottom shelves (C) & (D).
6. Glue and nail sides (B) onto top (A).
7. Glue and nail back (H) onto sides (B) top (A) and bottom shelf (D).
Notes:
1. Use a professional-strength wood glue

2. Use 1 ¼" finish nails for all lumber.
3. Use ½" finish nails to attach the plywood backing.
4. Set all nails below the wood surface.
5. A nail gun could be used if available.
F. Finish Procedure:
1. Use plastic wood dough to fill all nail holes and cracks.
2. Finish sanding the wood bookcase using 220 grit sand paper.
3. Use a tack rag to remove all sawdust.
4. If stain is desired, apply with a brush and allow to penetrate 5-10 minutes and then remove
with a clean rag.
5. Allow stain to dry approximately 6 hours and then repeat with a second coat.
6. Allow second coat to dry approximately 8 hours.
7. Use a tack rag to remove dust.
8. Apply clear finish coat such as Varathane, Polyurethane, ect. using a pure-bristle brush. Allow
to dry 12 hours.
9. Lightly hand sand using 220 grit sandpaper.
10. Use a tack rag to remove all dust.
11. Apply second coat of clear finish.
12. Allow to dry 24 hours before using the bookcase.
*Congratulations, your wood bookcase is finished and ready to use!

D.I.Y.
FR
What you’ll need to get started Planning your next
EE
on your D.I.Y. Project D.I.Y. Project
The Bunnings D.I.Y. brochures are designed to help you step
Materials
Build a Bookcase
the way through your D.I.Y. home projects.
Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF)
Screws - countersunk They’ll give you the right advice on what materials you’ll need,
how to get the job done and tips and ideas for achieving
Nails
the best result.
Sandpaper (fine)
Paint (optional)
PVA glue
How to build a bookcase
Tools
Electric hand saw

Electrical drill and bits
Builders square
Plane
Spirit Level
Expert D.I.Y. advice
Safety
If it’s advice you’re after, come in and discuss the project with
Always keep tools and materials away from children. one of our experts. Ask about organising Same Day Delivery, Tool Hire,
Read the instructions before beginning your project.
Installation or even enrol in one of our D.I.Y. classes.
Wear an approved dust mask when cutting, planing or sanding timber

AS/N251716.
Safety glasses and ear protection should be worn at all times.
Do not burn timber off cuts as they contain toxins.
BUNN751 12/08
For more information go to

bunnings.com.au
How to D.I.Y. Cutting timber Connecting
Build a Bookcase Cut all the timber pieces (MDF panels or pine) to length making sure all cuts
are square (Fig 1).
Starting with the base shelf, glue and then drill 2 screws in to each
side with an electric drill. Check regularly to enure that the shelves are
square and level with the sides (Fig 2). Continue to attach the shelves
Components Quantity Size working your way to the top. It is a good idea to fully tighten all shelves
once you have reached the top, this way you will easily fit the last shelf.
A bookcase is a fantastic Sides
Base, top and

2
7
240mm x 19mm x 2000mm
240mm x 19mm x 862mm

way to conserve space and Shelves
Fig 2. When attaching
Back 1 900mm x 19mm x 2000mm
it is also an attractive way shelves, check they are
square and level with
of correctly storing your the sides using a spirit

level.
books.
Please Note:
Information in this brochure is Bunnings’ opinion and we don’t warrant Attaching back panel
the accuracy or completeness of that information. Bunnings excludes all Fig 1. Dimensions of
liability in relation to the statements in this brochure. the bookcase. Once all the shelves are in position and firmly connected to the side
panels, attach the back panel. To attach the backing, lay the unit face
down then glue and nail the back in place on the sides, bottom, top and
each shelf. If your back panel doesn’t fit the structure perfectly you can
trim off any overhang with the saw or plane. Allow the bookshelf to dry.
Finishing up
If there is any timber overhanging around the case, trim it off with the
electric saw and plane for a smooth finish. Sand all the edges of the
completed bookcase and apply your choice of timber finish. You may
choose to paint the bookcase to match the décor of the room where it
will sit.
Screw holes
Now that you have your timber cut it’s time to mark out your desired shelf
spacing. Lay down the two side panels side by side and pre-drill 2 screw
holes on both side panels for each shelf at your desired height.
For further expert advice consult the qualified Team Members at your
local Bunnings Warehouse.
Lee's Wood Projects - How to Make a Wooden Playhouse Bookcase
Technical Information for Making a Wooden Playhouse Bookcase
A. Materials List:
QUANTITY LETTER NAME SIZE MATERIAL

1 A Top Back Panel 1/8" x 23 1/8" x 39 1/2" Masonite
1 B Middle Back Panel 1/8" x 12 1/2" x 39 1/2" Masonite
1 C Bottom Back Panel 1/8" x 12 1/2" x 39 1/2" Masonite
Paint Grade
2 D Side Walls 5/8" x 10 1/2" x 40"
Poplar
Paint Grade
2 E Roofs 5/8" x 12 1/2" x 26 1/8""
Poplar
Paint Grade
1 F Top Floor 1/2" x 10 3/8" x 39"
Poplar
Paint Grade
1 G Middle Floor 1/2" x 10 3/8" x 39"
Poplar
Paint Grade
1 H Bottom Floor 1/2" x 10 3/8" x 39"
Poplar
Paint Grade
3 I Interior Walls 1/2" x 10 3/8" x 12"
Poplar
2 J Fascia Trim 1/2" x 3 1/4" x 22 5/16" Paint Grade
Poplar
Paint Grade
1 K Front Base Trim 1/2" x 4" x 41 1/2"
Poplar
Paint Grade
2 L Side Base Trim 1/2" x 4" x 11 1/8"
Poplar
Paint Grade
1 M Bottom Floor Support 5/8" x 3 3/8" x 10 3/8"
Poplar
Paint Grade
20 N Vertical Door Frames 1/4" x 3/8" x 10 1/8""
Poplar
Horizontal Door Paint Grade
10 O 1/4" x 3/8" x 4 1/2"
Frames Poplar
Vertical Window Paint Grade
4 P 1/4" x 3/8" x 5"
Framess Poplar
Horizontal Window Paint Grade
4 Q 1/4" x 3/8" x 4 1/2"
Framess Poplar
Paint Grade
6 R Vertical Window Grids 1/4" x 1/4" x 2 "
Poplar
Horizontal Window Paint Grade
4 S 1/4" x 1/4" x 3 3/4"
Grids Poplar
B. Cutting Procedures:
1. Scale fascia trim (J) to the drawing dimension size. This can be accomplished by measuring
the print out and dividing that size into the dimension size. This will give a multi-factor that can
be used to figure the enlargement size for the patterns. This can be easily done at home if
you have a copier capable of making enlargements. If not, most companies that do
duplicating can make the enlargements required for the pattern.
2. Trace the pattern enlargements onto poster board or Mylar and use a pair of scissors to cut
out the pattern.
C. Sanding Procedures:
1. Joint one edge of all lumber.

2. Plane the side walls (D), Roofs (E), front base trim (K), side base trim (L), and the bottom
floor support (M) 5/8" thick.
3. Plane the floors (F), (G), and (H), plus the interior walls (I), and the fascia trim (J) 1/2" thick.
4. Use a table saw to rip the side walls (D) 10 1/2" wide. Also rip the floors (F), (G), and (H), plus
the interior walls (I) 10 3/8" wide. Rip the roofs (E) 12 1/2" wide.
5. Rip the front base trim (K) and the side base trim (L) 4" wide. Also rip the bottom floor support
(M) 3 3/8" wide.
6. Rip the fascia trim (J) 3 3/4" wide.
7. Use a radial arm saw to cut the side walls (D) 40 7/8", each floor 39", and the three interior
walls (I) 12" long respectively.
8. Cut the fascia trim (J) 26 1/2", the front base trim (K) 41 1/2", side base trim (L) 11 1/8", and
the bottom floor support (M) 10 3/8" long respectively.
9. Trace the fascia trim pattern on the two fascia trim boards (J).
10. Use a band saw to cut out the patterns on the fascia trim (J).
11. Use a spindle sander to sand the fascia trim design.
12. Use a power miter saw to cut 29 degree angles on both ends of the fascia trim (J). Both fascia
trim should be 22 5/16" after the angle cuts. Cut one end of each roof (E) 29 degrees to form
the roof peak. Also cut the top of each side wall (D) 29 degrees to match the roof and fascia
trim angles.
13. To find the placement for the windows draw horizontal lines 21 15/16" and 26 3/16" up from
the bottom of the side walls (D). Also draw vertical lines 3 3/8" and 7 1/8" in from the left
edges. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of each window area and use a scroll saw to cut out the
window openings.
14. To find the placement for the window in each exterior door, draw horizontal lines 11 3/4" and
13 3/4" up from the bottom of each side wall (D). Also draw vertical lines 3 3/8" and 7 1/8" in
from the left edges. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of each door/window area and use a scroll
saw to cut out the door/ window openings.
15. Use a band saw to cut out a 3 3/4" x 9 3/4" door opening in each interior wall (I).
16. Plane a board 1/4" thick for the window grids (R) and (S), plus the door frames(N) and (O),
and the window frames (P) and (Q).
17. Use a table saw with a fine toothed blade to rip the door and window frame material 3/8"
wide. Also rip the window grid material 1/4" wide.
18. Use a miter saw to cut the vertical and horizontal window and door frames (N), (O), (P), and
(Q) to their proper lengths. The corners should be cut at 45 degree angles.
19. Use a miter saw to cut the horizontal and vertical window grids (R) and (S) to their proper
lengths.
20. Rip the remainder of the 5/8" thick board 4" wide for the front base (K) and the side bases (L).
Use a table saw to cut a 45 degree bevel at the top edges of the front and side bases. Also
use a miter saw to cut 45 degrees angles on both ends of the front base and on one end of
each side base.
21. Use a table saw and a dado blade to cut a 5/16" x 1/8" rabbet joint on the back/inside edge of
each side wall (D) and each roof (E). The joint on each roof edge should be blind rabbet joint
22 5/8" long, starting from the roof peak to the side walls. Note: The rabbet joints should not
extend into the roof overhang areas.
22. Use a table saw to rip the top, middle, and bottom back masonite panels (A), (B), and (C) 39
5/8" wide. To determine the shape of the top panel (A), measure up 12 5/16" on both sides of
and 23 3/16" up from the middle of the panel. With a straight edge draw lines from the
top/center of the panel to the 12 5/16" marks. Use a band saw to cut out the shape. Use a
table saw to rip the height of the middle panel (B) 12 1/2". Rip the height of the bottom
panel(C) 16 1/2".
D. Sanding Procedures:
1. Use a power orbital sander with 120 grit sandpaper to sand all the large pieces of the
playhouse bookcase.
2. Use a power orbital sander with 220 grit sandpaper to finish sand all the large pieces.
3. Hand sand all the door and window frames, and the window grids with 220 grit sandpaper.
4. Hand sand all edges and slightly round all sharp corners.
5. Use a tack rag to remove all sanding dust.
E. Wood Playhouse Bookcase Assembly Procedures:
1. Place the bottom floor (H) on a work bench. Mark 12" in from both ends for the placement of
the interior walls (I). Also, mark the middle floor (G) the same as the bottom floor. Mark the
top floor (F) and the middle floor (G) 19 1/4" in from the ends for the placement of the upper
interior wall (I).
2. Place wood glue on the upper edges of the two bottom interior walls (I). Stand the interior
walls on the bottom floor (H) in position with the two marks. Align the middle floor (G) on top
of the bottom interior walls and use a nail gun with 1 1/4' nails to secure them together. Turn
the assembly on its back edges and place glue on the bottom edges of the interior walls. Align
the bottom floor and nail it to the interior walls.
3. Place wood glue on the top and bottom edges of the upper interior wall (I) and nail the middle
floor to it. Also align the upper floor to the upper interior wall and nail them together.
4. Place marks on the side walls (D) for the placement of the floors (F), (G), and (H). These
marks should be 4", 16 1/2", and 29" from the bottom of each side wall.
5. Stand the floor/interior wall assembly on its right side and place glue on the ends of the three
floors. Align the left side wall with the marks and nail it onto the floors. Repeat the process to
attach the right side wall. NOTE: Make sure that the floors, interior walls and the side walls
are all flush on the front edges before gluing and nailing.
6. Use bar clamps to secure the floors and walls together and allow the glue to dry over night.
Use a square to assure that all the angles are 90 degrees on the assembly.
7. Place glue on the top ends of the side walls (D), and the roof peak ends of the roofs (E).
8. Nail the two roof peaks together and then align the roof assembly with the side walls and nail
it secure. Be sure that the roof overhang is 2 13/16" on each side. Also, the roof assembly
should extend 1" beyond the side walls on the front and back sides of the side walls.
9. Place glue on the ends and top edges of the fascia trim (J) and temporarily clamp them to the
roof. Nail the fascia trim to the roof and the side walls. The fascia trim should be flush with the
front edges of the side walls.
10. Place glue on the top edge of the floor support (M). Position the floor support 19 3/16" from
one of the side walls and nail the bottom floor (H) to it.
11. Stand the playhouse bookcase assembly upright on a work bench. Place glue on the front
edge of the bottom floor (H), front end of the floor support (M) and the bottom edges of the
side walls (D). The side wall edges need glue only on the bottom 4". Position the front base
trim (K) to the playhouse bookcase and nail it to the side walls, bottom floor, and the floor
support. Place glue on the inside of each side base trim (L) and nail them to the side walls
and the ends of the front base trim.
12. Glue the door and window frames (N), (O), (P), & (Q) in place. Each interior and exterior door
should be framed on each side of the wall. Also, each window should be framed on both
sides.
13. Glue the window grids (R) & (S) in place.
14. Lay the playhouse bookcase on its front. Place glue in the rabbet joints of the side walls (D
and the roof (E). Also place glue on the back edges of the floors (F), (G), & (H) as well as the
back edged of the interior walls (I).
15. Position the back panels (A), (B), and (C) in place and nail them with 1/2" brads.
Notes: Be sure to clean up any excess glue during the assembly.
F. Finish Procedures:
1. Use wood dough to fill all the nail holes, cracks and imperfections. When dry, sand flush with
the surfaces.
2. Use a tack rag to remove all sanding dust.
3. Apply a coat of latex primer to all surfaces.
4. Apply two coats of interior latex paint to all surfaces.
*Congratulations, your wooden playhouse bookcase is finished and ready to use!

40 WORKBENCH APRIL 2006
WORKBENCH HOME: BOOK NOOK
BUILT-IN
BookNook
Open up a new chapter in the story of your home with this
built-in window seat and bookcase. It brings stylish seating,
storage, and display space to any room. Best of all, you can
put it all together in a couple of weekends for about $500.
A
Almost every home could benefit from additional storage, more seating, and an
influx of extra style.This built-in book nook delivers all three.
The project starts with a broad bench seat that offers a comfortable place to
kick back and relax while you read under the warm glow of built-in puck
lights overhead. Underneath, you’ll find a serious amount of storage space.Two
tall bookcases that flank the bench are the perfect place for books, of course,
but also for displaying your favorite collectibles.
The transformation this project brings to the style and feel of a room is
nothing less than astonishing.And no less amazing is that the project is easy to
build, a breeze to install, and remarkably affordable.
All you need are standard woodworking tools, some plywood and solid
poplar stock, a couple weekends, and a few hundred dollars. Of course, you’ll
also want the solid advice offered in the upcoming pages that show you how to
plan and build a book nook to fit your space.
www.WorkbenchMagazine.com 41
PLAN YOUR PROJECT
TO SUIT THE SPACE

All projects require planning before In this room,the woodwork is painted,
getting underway.That’s no secret. But so we painted the project,as well.We also
to get an integrated, seamless look with echoed the room’s beadboard paneling
a built-in, the planning process is espe- by using beadboard for the backs of the
cially important. bookcases. Plus, we removed paneling
Build to Fit — Obviously, you need behind the book nook to make sure it
to make sure the project will fit the room would look built in, not tacked on.
where it will be installed. That means Results May Vary —This all means
Even a relatively bare room offered you’ll need to thoroughly survey the you’re likely to build your book nook
plenty of information about building location and record all the critical differently than ours.The measurements
the book nook. The painted wood- measurements, as shown on page 80. will almost certainly be different (our
work and beaded paneling offered Build To Suit — Equally important wall was 11-feet, 3" wide and the ceiling,
styling cues that help the book nook with a built-in, though, is making the at 98", is higher than normal).And you
design blend in. An electrical outlet project complement the room. To do may want to alter the style, as well. In
and cold-air return needed to be that, you need to pay close attention to spite of the inevitable changes, however,
accommodated in the project design. the stylistic elements of the room this project will remain simple to build
(Photo, left, and Illustration, below). (Construction View, right).

CONSTRUCTION VIEW
A BENCH SEAT STARTS IT OFF
The foundation for the book nook is this dado and rabbet joints. A face frame Dado for Secure Joints — Now
broad bench seat.With its ample seating encloses the front, and a plywood seat it’s time to lay out a series of dadoes in
and built-in storage,the bench seat would panel tops it off (Base Assembly, below). the base top and bottom, as well as a
make a great project on its own. To determine the length of each unit, dado and rabbet in each base end.These
The seat starts off with two plywood measure the wall it will rest against, and are shown in the Base Assembly below.
base units (built separately to simplify then subtract an inch for clearance (see You’ll notice that the dadoes that
installation) that are assembled with page 80).Then divide this number in half. house the dividers aren’t spaced equally.
Once you’ve This is because of the bookcases that
determined how get added later.As the Photo at left shows,
long to make each those bookcases sit directly above the
base unit, cut the outermost compartments in the bench
base tops (A), ends seat. So I wanted the width of these
(B), and dividers outer openings in the seat to match the
(C) to size from width of the openings in the bookcases.
3/ " plywood. After laying out the position of the
4
Before moving first divider dado, I located the dado
on, cut a notch for the other divider midway on the
in each divider. remaining length of the base unit.
These will receive With all the dado locations laid out,
a cleat that’s used you can cut or rout the dadoes and
to secure each base rabbets.Then drill counterbored shank
unit to the wall holes for the screws that will hold each
(Cleat Detail,below). base together.
BASE ASSEMBLY CLEAT DETAIL

Next, you can assemble the bases.As Best Face Forward — The final MOLDING MADE EASY
you do this, be sure to orient the pieces element of the bench seat is a face The long seat edging is just a
correctly — with the wider compart- frame that covers the front of both base simple 1/4" strip dressed up with
ments at the outer ends, and the notches units. This frame is made up of long rounded edges. That means the
in the dividers toward the back. rails connected by stiles that align with edging is simple to make, but
Now,turn your attention to the backs the dividers in the base units. When one trick makes it even easier.
of the base units. First, add base cleats installed, these stiles will conceal the Rather than trying to round
(D).These get attached by screws driven dividers in the base units. over the edges of a thin strip,
in from the base ends, as well as through The face frame couldn’t be simpler to you’ll get better results by
the cleats into the dividers. Finally, cut build. Butt joints and pocket screws hold rounding the edges of a wide
back panels (E) to fit from 1/4" hardboard, it together (Pocket Screw Detail, below). board first, and then ripping the
and then attach each back with 1" brads. Like the seat panels, the face frame 1/ "-thick edging free. It’s a three-
4
Seat Panels Top It Off — The base is also built longer than the distance step process at the router table
units are topped by a pair of plywood between the walls it spans — 1/2", in and table saw, as shown in the
seat panels (F) made from 3/4" plywood. this case. The reason for oversizing Photos below.
Each starts out 1/2" longer and 21/4" wider remains the same here, too: You can
than the assembled base unit it sits on. scribe and trim the face frame to fit
At the front, this overhang allows the tightly against the walls on both ends.
seat panel to extend past the face frame After calculating how long to make
and molding that get added when the your face frame, cut the top rail (H),
bench seat is installed. At the back and bottom rail (I), end stiles ( J), and middle
outside edges, it gives an extra 1/2" so you stiles (K) to size.
can scribe the seat to match the walls. For Once again, I was lucky enough to
now, cut the seat panels to these oversize find 12-ft. long boards for my rails. If you
dimensions, and then set them aside. can’t find stock that’s long enough, you 1] After ripping one edge of a long
You can also make the seat edging can make two-piece rails and join them board straight, rout a 1/8" roundover
(G) now. It’s just a length of 1/4"-thick together with pocket screws. along the edge.
solid stock that gets applied later to con- Now bore the pocket holes in the
ceal the edge of the plywood seat panels. stiles, align them with the rails, and then
The Sidebar at right shows an easy way screw the face frame together. Set it
to make the edging. aside until it’s time for installation.
I cut my edging from a single piece
of 12-ft. long poplar. If you can’t find a POCKET SCREW DETAIL
board long enough, you can make the
edging in two pieces.That’s one of the
benefits of a painted project:You can
simply fill the seam before painting, and
nobody will never know. 2] Flip the board end-for-end, and
In either case, set the seat panel round over the second edge using
edging aside for now, too. It doesn’t get the same router-table setup.
applied until the book nook is installed.
FACE FRAME
3] To complete the seat edging,

move to the table saw and rip the
rounded edge free of the board.
BOOKCASES COME NEXT
The tall bookcases are built almost like will need to be scribed to fit tightly
the base units. Each has a plywood case against the back wall.To allow for this,
made up of two sides that are connected the side is extra-wide and extends
by shelves that fit into shallow dadoes. beyond the back of the case (Wide Side
A face frame covers the front of the Rabbet Detail).The other side of the cab-
plywood case, while edging covers the inet is hidden. That means it doesn’t
plies on the front edge of the shelves have to be scribed or built extra-wide.
(Case Assembly, below). As you might guess by now, we also
There is one very notable thing accounted for scribing with the face
about the way the bookcases are built. frames. Each is 1/4" wider than the case
Each has one side that’s wider than the it attaches to.The overhang sits toward
other, as shown in the Case Parts View, the outside of each case where it abuts
below right.You’ll see why if you look the side wall of the room.
at the Photo at left. One side of each Build the Bookcases — With all
cabinet is visible. That means it likely this in mind, you can start construction.
CASE ASSEMBLY
EDGING DETAIL

Rather than cutting all the sides at That done, rip each blank to make a After that, the bookcases can be
once, I started with two 26" × 81" narrow side (L) that’s 125/8" wide, and assembled. I attached the shelves using
blanks made from 3/4" plywood. Each a wide side (M) that measures 131/4". glue and 6d finish nails instead of screws
blank is wide enough to produce one Run the Rabbets— Now you need so that I didn’t have large holes to fill in
narrow side (L) and one wide side (M). to lay out a rabbet along the back edge the visible (wide) sides before painting.
The next step is to cut five dadoes of each wide side.The rabbet serves two Next, cut two case cleats (O) for
and a rabbet across each blank (Case purposes.It decreases the amount of mate- each case and nail them to the case sides.
Parts View). These receive the shelves, rial you’ll need to trim when scribing. You’ll drive screws through these cleats
and cutting them across a wide blank And it provides a notch for the back to secure the bookcases to the wall.
ensures that, when assembled, the shelves panel to rest in (Wide Side Rabbet Detail). The case backs (P) come next.To
in each case will align exactly. As you lay out the rabbet, remember echo the look of the beadboard pan-
You can cut the dadoes and rabbet in this: On the left-hand bookcase, the eling in the room, I made these backs
a couple of ways. I used my table saw, wide side will go on the right. On the from 3/8"-thick beaded plywood (I
which has a 52" rip fence — plenty of right-hand bookcase, the wide side goes used Ply-Bead from Georgia Pacific;
capacity to cut the dadoes. If your saw on the left. Mark each side, so you don’t Plytanium.com).The backs get tacked
lacks that much capacity, use a router accidentally rabbet the wrong edge. on with 1" brads.
and straight bit guided by a straightedge. Bring on the Shelves — With the Fit the Face Frames — A solid-
case sides complete, you can cut the wood face frame comes next for each
shelves and tops (N) to size. In my case (Face Frame Assembly, below left).To
CASE PARTS VIEW bookcases, the upper compartment make them, cut frame stiles (Q), as well
is a lighted display area. So before as top (R), middle (S), and bottom (T)
assembling the cases, I bored a 21/8" rails to size from solid stock. Then
hole centered in the two tops for the assemble the frames with pocket screws.
puck lights to fit into. You can glue and nail the face frames
to the cases now. Make sure when doing
so that each face frame sits flush with the
FACE FRAME ASSEMBLY wide side of each case and overhangs the
side which will sit against the wall.
Add Shelf Edging — All that’s left
now is to add edging (U) to the three
shelves that aren’t covered by the face
frame. This edging features a beaded
roundover profile (Edging Detail) made
using the same three-step technique
that was used for the seat panel edging
(Molding Made Easy, page 45). Start with
extra-long edging pieces, then cut each
to fit the shelves. Glue and nails hold the
edging in place without clamps.
A Good Time to Paint — With the
bookcases assembled, most of the major
construction is complete for this project.
But before you move on to installation,
I advise painting most of the parts.That
WIDE SIDE RABBET DETAIL way, you can take your time without
making a big mess in the room where the
book nook will be installed. See page 21
for tips that will ensure a great paint job.
I primed and painted everything but
the seat panels. Those were left bare
because fitting the bookcases means
sliding them in and out of place a few
times, which could scratch up the paint.
INSTALL THE
BENCH SEAT AND BOOKCASES
Before you install the book nook, you Bring in the Bench Seat — Start
may need to do a little prep work in installation by positioning the seat bases
the room. For example, I removed the (Base & Frame Installation, below) They
baseboard behind and beside the bench should align without problem, but be
seat to ensure that I could tuck the back sure to double-check that the tops are
of the base units tight against the wall. flush and that the front edge of the
At the same time, I stripped off the assembly is straight (Photo, left). That
beadboard on the back wall where the done, level the base units (Inset).
project would go.To me, that made the Next, shim between the back of the
book nook truly look built-in rather base units and wall if necessary, and then
than tacked on.This, of course, led to a drive #10 × 31/2" screws through the
bit of plaster repair. base cleat and into wall studs in at least
Then I decided four locations (two in each base unit).
to go ahead and Get Framed — Before attaching the
repaint the room, face frame, scribe and trim the end stiles
Screw the base so it would fully to match the walls. Using a template
units together match the book simplifies this process (see page 83).Align
and make sure nook.These types the face frame, and secure it with 6d
they’re straight of tasks are often finish nails (Face Frame Detail).
across the front. called “might-as- Have a Seat — Next up are the seat
Then level the wells.” They take panels (Add Seat & Trim, page 49). Position
assembly using time, but really one panel so it overhangs the face frame
shims as needed. do make a built-in consistently. Now scribe and trim the
project look better. back edge and outer end of the panel,
BASE & FRAME INSTALLATION
FACE FRAME DETAIL
MOUNTING DETAIL

using the techniques on page 82. ADD SEAT & TRIM

Remember, once fitted, the panel should
overhang the face frame by 1".
Once this first panel fits, clamp it in
place. Then fit the second panel the
same way (Photo, below). After that, nail
the seat panels to the base units.
Slide In the Bookcases — Fitting
the bookcases comes next (Bookcases Top
It Off, right) Be prepared to test fit them
a couple of times to get the best fit.
Start by making sure each case sits
square on the bench seat (Photo, bottom). SEAT TRIM DETAIL
Then scribe the face frame, remove the
case, and trim it to fit. Refit the case, and
then scribe and trim the case side. Now
install the bookcase (Case Cleat Detail).
Finally,glue and nail on the seat edging
(Seat Trim Detail). A piece of 3/4" cove
molding (V) goes below.More cove wraps
around the bookcases (Case Molding
Detail). Now you can paint these parts. BOOKCASES TOP IT OFF
Each seat panel gets trimmed to fit the

wall on the back and outside end. The
panels should meet tightly at the center.
CASE CLEAT DETAIL CASE MOLDING DETAIL
Use a framing square to make sure each

tall case is positioned properly before
scribing it and before installing it.
ADD DRAWERS & A VALANCE
With the bench seat and bookcases Spacers Position the Slides — Before
installed, I decided to add some enclosed you can install the drawer slides, you’ll
storage to the project with a pair of need to “build out” the bench seat com-
drawers (Photo, left).You could choose partments so that the slides fit flush with
to leave all the compartments open, or the edges of the face-frame stiles. Spacers
build even more drawers. It all depends (BB) accomplish this (Drawer Slide Detail).
on what suits your needs. Plane or rip each spacer to thickness,and
Each drawer is just a simple box then mount it to the divider.
covered by a false front with a decora- From there, you can install the
tive molding (Drawer Assembly). drawer slides, and then slip the drawer
Start by cutting the drawer fronts and boxes into position. Finally, align and
backs (W) and sides (X) to size from mount the false fronts.
1/ " hardwood. Then rabbet the fronts Top It Off with a Valance — The
2
and backs (Drawer Joinery Detail), and cut finishing touch for the book nook is a
grooves for the plywood bottoms (Y) valance. It spans between the bookcases
before assembling the boxes. to tie the project together, and provides
Deep drawers add a lot of enclosed The false fronts (Z) come next. a place to mount lights and run wiring
storage for blankets, games, or just about They’re cut to size from 3/4"-thick (Valance Assembly, page 51). Consisting
anything. Like the rest of the project, poplar. Then you can add the drawer of just two pieces, it’s one of the easiest
they’re attractive yet very easy to build. trim (AA). It’s made using the tech- parts of this project to build.
niques on page 45, mitered to length, Construction begins by cutting the
and secured with glue and 1" brads. valance bottom (CC) from 3/4" plywood.
It starts out oversize. If you want to add
DRAWER ASSEMBLY lighting, bore holes for puck lights.
The extra-long valance face (DD)
comes next. It gets a full-length groove
to receive the valance bottom, and
roundovers on the lower edge (Valance
Mounting Detail, page 51).
DRAWER JOINERY DETAIL
DRAWER SLIDE DETAIL

After making the valance parts, paint
them, but don’t assemble them yet.
Cleats Hold the Valance — A pair
of simple cleats (EE) secure the valance.
After cutting them to length from 2x2s,
screw one to the wall, and the other to
the bookcases (Valance Mounting Detail).
Finally, scribe the valance bottom and
front to fit, nail them together, and then
slip the assembly into place after routing
all wires into the case (Photo, above right).
The Crowning Touch — To hide
any gaps around the ceiling, wrap the VALANCE ASSEMBLY
valance and the bookcases with crown
molding (FF). It just gets mitered to fit,
and then nailed in place.
With the book nook complete, it’s
time to kick back and relax — with a
good book, of course.
VALANCE MOUNTING DETAIL
MATERIAL LIST
Part Qty Size Material Part Qty Size Material
BENCH SEAT S FRAME MIDDLE RAILS 2 #/4" x 2" x 20" Poplar
A BASE TOPS/BOTTOMS 4 #/4" x 19!/4" x 66!/8 " Birch Plywood T FRAME BOTTOM RAILS 2 #/4" x 3" x 20" Poplar
B BASE ENDS 4 #/4" x 19!/4" x 16!/4" Birch Plywood U SHELF EDGING 6 !/2" x #/4" x 20" Poplar
C BASE DIVIDERS 4 #/4" x 19!/4" x 11!/4" Birch Plywood V COVE MOLDING 1 #/4" x #/4" x 20' Pine
D BASE CLEATS 2 #/4" x 2" x 65%/8" Poplar DRAWERS
E BASE BACKS 2 !/4" x 12!/4" x 67!/8" Hardboard W BOX FRONTS/BACKS 4 !/2" x 8!/2" x 19" Poplar
F SEAT PANELS 2 #/4" x 21#/4" x 67%/8" Birch Plywood X BOX SIDES 4 !/2" x 8!/2" x 18!/2" Poplar
G SEAT EDGING 2 !/4" x #/4" x 144" Poplar Y BOX BOTTOMS 4 !/4" x 18!/2" x 18!/2" Plywood
H FRAME TOP RAIL 1 #/4" x 2#/4" x 131!/4" Poplar Z FALSE FRONTS 2 #/4" x 8%/8" x 19&/8" Poplar
I FRAME BOTTOM RAIL 1 #/4" x 4#/4" x 131!/4" Poplar AA FRONT TRIM 1 #/8" x !/2" x 90" Poplar
J FRAME END STILES 2 #/4" x 2!/2" x 16!/4" Poplar BB DRAWER SPACERS 4 #/4" x 1!/2" x 19!/4" Poplar
K FRAME INNER STILES 5 #/4" x 2!/2" x 8#/4" Poplar VALANCE/CROWN
BOOKCASES CC VALANCE BOTTOM 1 #/4" x 11!/2" x 86" Birch Plywood
L NARROW SIDES 2 #/4" x 12%/8" x 81" Birch Plywood DD VALANCE FACE 1 #/4" x 5#/8" x 86" Poplar
M WIDE SIDES 2 #/4" x 13!/4" x 81" Birch Plywood EE VALANCE CLEATS 2 1!/2" x 1!/2" x 86" Pine
N SHELVES/TOPS 12 #/4" x 12%/8" x 23#/4" Birch Plywood FF CROWN MOLDING 1 #/4" x 3!/2" x 20' Pine
O CASE CLEATS 4 #/4" x 2" x 23!/4" Poplar • (64) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews • (1 lb.) 1" Wire Brads
P CASE BACKS 2 #/8" x 24!/2" x 81" Beaded Ply. • (66) #8 x 1!/2" Pocket Screws • *(2) Pr. 18" Slides (#34580)
Q FRAME STILES 4 #/4" x 2!/2" x 81" Poplar • (2 lbs.) 6d Finish Nails • *(2) Puck Light Sets (#39748:
• (!/2 lb.) 4d Finish Nails 2-Light; #39705: 3-Light)
R FRAME TOP RAILS 2 #/4" x 5!/2" x 20" Poplar
*Items available from Rockler.com; 800/279-4441
PM Centennial Furniture Suite: Anniversary Bookcase

The third in the POPULAR MECHANICS 100-year commemorative series.
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY NEAL BARRETT
Published in the July 2002 issue.
A good bookcase is more than a set of shelves. It's a home for your most treasured volumes--a place to not only store and
protect, but, more importantly, to display. In fact, while it may be designed to hold books, it's also the perfect place to show off
photographs and collectibles.
The problem is, a bookcase with such a daunting responsibility won't make the grade if it's built of plywood or pine. What you
need is something that lives up to the objects it holds. With this in mind, we've created the third piece in our POPULAR
MECHANICS 100th anniversary furniture series. Like our dining table and chair, our bookcase is constructed of solid mahogany
and features details of pomele sapele veneer and wenge. The case's finished back allows it to be used either against a wall or in
the center of a room as a partition.
The exotic woods used in our commemorative line of furniture are not likely to be stocked by your local lumberyard. But, they are
available through mail-order sources. One such source is A&M Wood Specialty Inc., 358 Eagle St. N., Box 32040, Cambridge,
Ontario, Canada N3H 5M2; www.forloversofwood.com.
MATERIALS LIST--BOOKCASE
Key No. Size and description (use)
A 2 1 x 11-1/2 x 59" mahogany (side)
B 1 1 x 4 x 28-1/2" mahogany (front top rail)
C 1 1 x 6 x 28-1/2" mahogany (front bottom rail)
D 1 1 x 4 x 28-1/2" mahogany (rear top rail)
E 1 1 x 6 x 28-1/2" mahogany (rear bottom rail)
F 2 1 x 3 x 50-1/2" mahogany (stile)
G 1 1 x 9-3/8 x 27" mahogany (bottom)
H 3 1 x 10-3/8 x 26-15/16" mahogany (shelf)
I 3 1/2 x 8 x 50" mahogany (rear panel)
J 4 1/2 x 1 x 2-1/2" wenge (foot)
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Click to Enlarge K 1 3/16 x 3-1/2 x 22" wenge (panel core)

L 1 3/16 x 2 x 22" wenge (panel core)
M 2 3/16 x 5-1/2 x 49" wenge (panel core)
N as reqd. pomele sapele (panel veneer)
O 1 1 x 12-1/2 x 30" mahogany (top)
P 23 No. 20 joining plate
Q 8 1-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew
R 12 shelf pin
Misc: Glue; wax paper; 120- and 220- and 320-grit sandpaper; 4/0
steel wool; Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish (Waterlox Coatings Corp.,
9808 Meech Ave., Cleveland, OH 44105); shelf pins, No. 30437,
available from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 4365 Willow Dr.,
Medina, MN 55340.
Building The Case

Begin by cutting the case parts to finished dimension. Try to match the color and grain of the pieces for a uniform appearance.
Mark the locations of the front and back rails on each side. Note that the front rails are set back 1/8 in., while the back rails are
flush. Use a marking gauge and square to lay out the mortises for each joint.
Rout the rail mortises with a spiral up-cutting bit (Photo 1). Make two or three passes to reach the full mortise depth to avoid
breaking the bit or overloading the router. Then, rout the back-panel grooves (Photo 2).
Lay out the mortises in the edges of the top and bottom back rails. Maintain the router's previous edge-guide setting and readjust
the depth to cut these mortises. Clamp two rails together to provide a wider, more stable base for the router, but be sure to
register the edge guide against the outer face of the rail being cut. Readjust the bit depth again to cut the panel grooves in the
rails, and then rout the panel grooves in the back stiles. Square the mortises with a sharp chisel (Photo 3).
Use a dado blade in your table saw to cut the tenon cheeks on the rails and stiles (Photo 4). A stopblock clamped to the saw
table ensures that all tenons will be the same length. Since most dado blades leave small ridges on the surface of the stock, cut
the tenons about 1/32 in. heavy and pare them to size with a sharp chisel. Readjust the blade height to cut the shoulders at the
edges of the tenons (Photo 5).
Use a spiral up-cutting bit to rout the mortises

in the case sides. Reach full depth in two or
three passes.
Rout the grooves for rear panels in the case

sides. The grooves extend between the
mortises for top and bottom rails.
2 of 8 9/03/2010 9:27 PM
After routing the mortises in the back rails for

the stiles, use a sharp chisel to square the
ends of all mortises.
Use a dado blade in the table saw to cut the

tenons. A stopblock clamped to the table
ensures uniform tenon lengths.
Readjust the dado blade height and hold the

rails and stiles on edge to cut the tenon
shoulders.
Mark the locations of the joining-plate slots on the inner surfaces of the bottom rails and cut the slots (Photo 6). Adjust the joiner
fence so that the slots are set back the proper distance from the rail edge. Note that the front rail has four slots while the back rail
has three slots.
Next, lay out the slots on the edges and ends of the bottom shelf and cut them. Use a flat tabletop as a registration surface for
locating the slots. Be sure that you hold both the joiner and workpiece tight to the table when cutting. Use the same technique to
cut the slots in the top ends of the case sides as well as the top edges of front and back upper rails. Mark the case sides to
indicate the positions of the slots for the bottom shelf joint, then cut those slots (Photo 7). Clamp a guide block to the case side to
aid in locating the joiner for these cuts.
Make a template out of plywood or hardboard for the shelf-pin hole locations. Note that the edge-to-hole distance is different for
the front and back holes. Position the template on each case side and use a depth stop on the drill bit to bore the shelf-pin holes
3 of 8 9/03/2010 9:27 PM
(Photo 8). Install a chamfer bit in the router table and cut the 1/8-in. chamfer on the front edges and outside back edges of the
case sides. Then chamfer the front rails and front edges of the adjustable shelves. Install a straight bit in your router and cut the
rabbet around the edges of the back panels (Photo 9).
To make the wenge feet, first rip a strip of 1-in.-thick wenge to 2-1/2 in. wide. Adjust the table saw blade to 45° and chamfer the
end of the strip (Photo 10). Readjust the blade to 90° to cut a 1/2-in.-high foot off the strip. Repeat the procedure for the
remaining feet.
Bore and countersink screwholes in the case feet. Spread a bit of glue on each foot and fasten them to the bottom ends of the
sides with 1-1/2-in. No. 8 screws (Photo 11).
Mark the plate centers on the front and back

bottom rails and cut the slots. Use the joiner
fence to locate slot heights.
After cutting slots in shelf ends, cut matching

slots in case sides. A block clamped to the side
locates the joiner.
Make a template of the shelf-pin hole locations.

Then, use the template to position the holes in
the case sides.
4 of 8 9/03/2010 9:27 PM
Cut back panels to size from 1/2-in.-thick stock

and use a router to shape the rabbet around
the panel edges.
Cut a 45° chamfer at the end of a 1 x 2-1/2-in.

wenge blank. Set the blade to 90° and saw
across the end to make a foot.
Bore and countersink screwholes in each foot.

Apply glue and screw the feet to the case
sides.
Decorative Panels
Cut the wenge panel cores larger than finished dimension--they'll be trimmed to exact size after the veneer is glued in place. After
cutting the wenge stock to width, clamp a fence to your band saw and resaw the thin panel cores. Cut the pieces about 1/32 in.
thicker than indicated and plane them smooth.
To cut the veneer, first place a scrap plywood or particleboard panel on your worktable and lay a sheet of veneer over it. Lay out
the outlines of the veneer pieces to match the wenge cores. Place a straightedge guide over each cut line and hold a veneer saw
against the guide while lightly scoring the veneer (Photo 12). It will take several passes with the saw to cut through the veneer.
You can easily press the veneer onto both side panels at the same time. Use a roller to spread glue onto the wenge cores (Photo
13). Place a veneer sheet over each core, then cover each with wax paper.
Stack the two panels with edges and ends aligned and sandwich them between 3/4-in.-thick cauls. It's best to use double cauls
5 of 8 9/03/2010 9:27 PM
on both sides of the stack to evenly distribute the clamping pressure. Apply clamps, beginning at the center and working toward
both ends (Photo 14). Space the clamps 3 to 4 in. apart. Allow the panels to sit in the clamps for at least 2 hours. Then, remove
the clamps and let the panels dry overnight.
Follow the same procedure for the front-rail panels. Don't be alarmed if the panels show a slight warp. Usually, veneer is applied
to both sides of the core to avoid this. When the thin panels are glued and clamped to the bookcase, they'll flatten out.
After the glue has cured, cut the panels to finished size and chamfer the edges. Sand the panel edges and outer surfaces of the
front rails and sides to 220 grit. Mark the location of each panel on its case part.
Spread glue on the back of the top-rail panel, place it on the rail and clamp it in position (Photo 15). Use plenty of clamps to
ensure a good bond between the panel and rail. Repeat the procedure for bottom rail and side panels.
Hold the veneer saw tight against a straight

guide and run it lightly over the veneer several
times to make the cut.
Use a foam roller to spread glue on the wenge

strips. Then, place a sheet of veneer on each
core panel.
Stack the side panels with wax paper between

each piece and plywood cauls on top and
bottom. Then apply clamps.
6 of 8 9/03/2010 9:27 PM
Spread glue on the back of a panel and clamp

it to a rail. Use plenty of clamps to ensure a
good bond.
Assembly
Dry fit the front and back bottom rails to the bottom shelf (Photo 16). Then glue and clamp the assembly.
Slide the two back stiles over the edges of the center back panel. Next, apply glue to the mortise-and-tenon joints for the stiles
and upper and lower back rails, and assemble the parts (Photo 17). Take care to keep glue off the panel edges. Use long bar
clamps to pull the back rail/stile joints tight and let the glue set.
Slide the two remaining back panels into the rail and stile grooves. Then, apply glue to the joints for one of the case sides.
Assemble the side to the back subassembly and front rail, and apply clamps (Photo 18). When the glue is dry, add the other side.
Mark the locations of the joining-plate slots in the case top and cut the slots. Clamp a straightedge guide to the top to aid in
positioning the joiner.
Set the table saw blade to a 15° angle and bevel the case top edges (Photo 19). Use the miter gauge when trimming the ends,
and the fence when cutting the front and back edges. Sand the case and top to 220 grit, spread glue in the slots and on the
joining plates, and clamp the top in place.
Mark the locations of the shelf-pin notches in the bottom faces of the adjustable shelves. Use a router with an edge guide and
straight bit to cut the notches, and sand the shelves.
Finishing
We finished our case with Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. Apply the finish liberally with a brush or rag and allow it to penetrate
for about 30 minutes. Use a lintfree rag to wipe off the excess, leaving only a damp surface. After overnight drying, lightly scuff the
surface with 320-grit paper and dust off. Repeat the application using the same method for two or three more coats. When the
last coat has cured, rub the surface with 4/0 steel wool followed by a soft cloth.
Spread glue in the joining-plate slots and on

mating edges and plates, then assemble the
bottom shelf and rails.
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Slide the center back panel between the two

stiles. Apply glue and join the stiles to the top
and bottom back rails.
Join one case side to the bottom/back

subassembly, then add the front top rail
followed by the second side.
Cut the case top to finished dimension. Reset

the blade to 15° and cut the beveled edge
around the top.
8 of 8 9/03/2010 9:27 PM
Trapezoidal
Bookcase
don’t think I’ve ever built a perfect sions of the same bookcase, with an
I reproduction. Even when I really

like an existing design, I need the piece
overall look in common.
As is the case with much Arts and
to be slightly larger, I prefer some tech- Crafts furniture, the essential decorative
nique over one used in the original elements of all versions of this piece
construction, or I don’t have the exact are the construction details, including
materials. In any case, I think that one the canted sides for stability and the
of the more enjoyable aspects of wood- wedged, locking through-tenons. In his
working is trying new ideas and combi- interpretation of the original, David left
nations. So it is with this bookcase, and these elements intact, but he omitted
twice over. the molded crown and used cherry
I based the design of this bookcase (instead of fumed white oak) and con-
on one made by David Fay, a furniture trasting panga panga wood wedges and
maker in Oakland, California, who shelf supports.
based his design on a turn-of-the- My bookcase is identical to David’s,
century Roycroft magazine pedestal. but I used ash with zebrawood for the
David’s version strayed from the origi- wedges. I also made mine knockdown
nal somewhat, and my design strays for transporting.
from David’s. The results are three ver-
81
Trapezoidal Knockdown Bookcase
THIS IS AN UPDATED, KNOCKDOWN VERSION of a Roycroft magazine stand held together
with through wedge tenons on the top and bottom shelves. The middle shelves are held in
position with unglued biscuits. The front edges of the sides are tapered 3 degrees, and the
sides also lean toward each other at 3 degrees, giving the piece a trapezoidal shape.
Angled and
Wedge tapered side
Shelf
Biscuit
Through tenon
82
FRONT VIEW SIDE VIEW
91⁄ 2”
121⁄2”
137⁄ 16” 9”
10”
141⁄ 2”
111⁄ 8”
1511⁄ 16”
661⁄ 2”
121⁄ 4”
1615⁄ 16”
143⁄ 4”
181⁄ 2”
415⁄ 16”
131⁄ 2”
Sides and shelves are 3⁄ 4” thick.

CUT LIST FOR
TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE
Carcase and Shelves
2 Sides 131⁄ 2 in. x 665⁄ 8 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.
1 Shelf 137⁄ 16 in. x 105⁄ 16 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.
1 Shelf 141⁄ 2 in. x 1015⁄ 16 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.
1 Shelf 1511⁄ 16 in. x 119⁄ 16 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.
1 Shelf 1615⁄ 16 in. x 125⁄ 16 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.
1 Top shelf 171⁄ 2 in. x 93⁄ 4 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.
1 Bottom shelf 231⁄ 2 in. x 131⁄ 4 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.
8 Wedges 33⁄ 8 in. x 3⁄ 4 in. x 3⁄ 4 in.
All parts are made of solid ash except for the zebrawood wedges.
TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE 83
Building the Bookcase Step-by-Step
T HIS BOOKCASE would be a cinch to

build except for the 3-degree trapezoidal
shape. All of the joinery must be cut at this
Making the Sides
and Shelves
angle, often with special-made jigs. The best
place to begin is with a full-sized drawing of Gluing up the stock
the bookcase (front and side views) on a The smallest shelf is 93⁄ 4 in. deep, and the base
good-quality light-colored plywood. It will be of the sides is 131⁄ 2 in. Unless you have access
an excellent and accurate reference through- to some wide ash, you’ll have to make the
out the whole building process (see “Full- shelves and sides from two pieces.
Scale Drawings”).
Full-Scale Drawings
Full-scale drawings may seem like overkill, but they are tremen-
dously useful, especially when the piece is complex.
An accurate full-scale drawing lets you take all your measure-
ments from it as you work. You don’t have to fiddle with cut lists
and calculate joints and details in your head. Just put a ruler on
the drawing, and you have your measurement.
They’re also helpful to visually evaluate the size and propor-
tions of the piece. If you want to adapt a design to a different
space or to hold some specific objects, the full-scale drawing
helps you see what it will look like. Scale drawings can tell you
only so much. Subtle changes that would be all but invisible in a
small drawing can be quite dramatic full size.
To transfer angles from the drawing to a workpiece or machine,
use a large protractor gauge, such as one made by CCKL Creator
(available from Lee Valley Tools). It is much larger than a standard
bevel gauge, and it allows a greater reach on the drawing and
greater accuracy. It also allows you to read the actual angle. This
makes resetting it a cinch, which isn’t necessarily the case with a
standard bevel gauge.
Photo A: The bookcase sides and shelves are

wide (91⁄ 2 in. to 131⁄ 2 in.), and have to be
glued up from two or more pieces.
84 TRAPEZOIDAL BOOKCASE
1. If you can, resaw 8/4 stock for the sides
and book-match them. I couldn’t book-match
the bookcase you see in the photos with the
ash I had, but it is certainly worth the trouble.
2. If you use unmatched boards, choose the
best match of grain and color for the sides,
and decide if you want the glue joint parallel
with the straight back or with the tapered
edge on the front. I chose parallel to the back,
which seemed the least obvious.
3. Glue up all the stock for the bookcase
shelves and sides at once (see photo A).
Beveling ends
and tapering sides
1. Cut the sides to length, but not at
90 degrees. The sides lean inward toward each
other at 3 degrees, so crosscut the top and
bottom edges at 93 degrees to the floor (or
87 degrees, depending from which direction Photo B: A circular saw and straightedge guide make cutting the
you measure). This way when the bookcase tapers on the sides a cinch.
sits on the floor, the bottom sits flat and the
top edges are horizontal. Make sure the edges
are parallel when finished.
2. The front edge of the bookcase has a taper Joinery Tip: Standard bevel
(though the back does not). Lay it out by
measuring from the back edge of each side
gauges should be
131⁄ 2 in. at the bottom and 91⁄ 2 in. at the top. Cutting the mortises set once and left set
Then draw a line between the marks. The mortises that are used to join the top and until you’ve finished
3. Cut the taper along the line. I use a Festo bottom shelves to the sides are the trickiest with every similar
circular saw that has a straightedge guide part of this piece because they are angled and angle. However, to
that’s great for this kind of cut. It leaves a very have to be cut cleanly to within a very close give memory to a
smooth and straight edge (see photo B). The tolerance—as does all the joinery in this bevel gauge, trace
taper can also be rough-cut with a jigsaw and piece—because it all shows. the whole blade of
cleaned up with a straightedge and a router.
the bevel gauge on
4. Cut the top and bottom shelf blanks a little 1. Make two router jigs, a right-handed one
a scrap of plywood.
wider than necessary and 31⁄ 2 in. longer than and a left-handed one, to cut the four mortises
the outside width of the case at their loca- in the sides at a 3-degree angle (see “Jig for
tions. This allows for the through tenons. Routing Angled Mortises” on p. 86).
5. Later, after these shelves are installed, mark 2. Attach the alignment fence to the left-
the exact depth from the sides, then rip a handed jig on the angled edge. It is now set
3-degree bevel on the front edge. Then rip the up to cut the mortises on the front edge of the
back edge at 90 degrees. left side.
3. Position the jig flush with the top and front
edges on the outside face of the left side.
Jigs for Routing Angled Mortises
To cut the four mortises in the sides, you need two jigs with movable fences. The jigs are
identical except that they are mirror images of each other. One edge of each jig is angled
like the front edge of the bookcase, and the bottoms of each are shimmed at 3 degrees, the
same angle that the bookcase sides lean inward.
Jigs sit in the corners of their

respective sides, and register off
the edges to locate the mortises.
LEFT-SIDE JIG
11⁄ 16”
11⁄ 2”
33⁄ 4”
213⁄ 16”
Wedge holds jig Alignment fence can be

up at 3 degrees moved from front to
back edge of jig for cor-
responding location on
bookcase side.
RIGHT-SIDE JIG
JIG IN USE 43⁄ 4”
Jig 97⁄ 16”
Same angle
as front edge
of bookcase
Wedge 55⁄ 16”

Bookcase side
Hole in jig sized for a 30mm guide
bushing and 3⁄ 8-in. straight bit to cut
a correctly sized mortise.
Tip: Attach the jig
to the workpiece
with double-sided
tape rather than
clamps because
they can get in the
way of the router.
Photo D: The mortis-

ing jig tilts the router
3 degrees and cuts
Photo C: To cut the through mortises in the sides, you need a left-handed and a the mortise walls at
right-handed router jig. the same angle.
4. Back up the cut on the underside with

some scrap wood. Don’t risk any tearout since
everything shows.
5. Cut the upper mortises on the front edge of
the left side with a plunge router. Advance the
depth of cut in very small increments.
6. Slide the jig down the same side until it is
flush with the bottom, and cut the bottom
mortise on the same side (see photo C).
7. Take the alignment fence off the jig and
attach it to the opposite side of the jig.
8. Move the jig to the back side and repeat
the process for the back mortises (see
photo D).
9. Square up the rounded mortise corners
with a sharp chisel (see photo E).
10. Repeat this process on the other side of
the bookcase but with the other jig.
Photo E: Square up the routed mortises with a sharp chisel.
Cut Sequence for Tenons
A support box attached to a crosscut sled makes a stable platform to cut tenons.
A stop block lets you angle the workpiece.
STEP 1: CUT CHEEKS

Workpiece at 3 degrees
Shelf
Plywood
support box
Rip fence
Stop block
Crosscut sled
Sawblade
STEP 2: CUT SHOULDERS

Short fence
Workpiece at
90 degrees Plywood
Rip fence support box
Crosscut sled
Miter gauge slot Sawblade
STEP 3: REMOVE CENTER PORTION
Jigsaw at 3 degrees
Waste
Completed shelf
Cutting the tenons in the
top and bottom shelves
Choosing one method of tenoning over
another is usually based on experience and
machinery. I use my table saw because I’m
comfortable with this machine and it pro-
duces a cut that requires the least amount of
cleanup. However, feel free to cut the tenons
as you like.
1. Attach a tall fence (actually a plywood box)

to your table-saw crosscut sled at right angles
to the blade.
2. Attach a stop block to the sled, in front of Photo F: A simple table-saw jig positions the workpiece to cut the
and parallel to the fence. This stop block is angled cheeks of the tenons.
positioned to catch the edge of the workpiece
that, when leaned back against the fence, is
at 3 degrees to the top of the saw (see “Cut 6. Place a short fence against the rip fence to
Sequence for Tenons”). position the cut and allow the cutoff to fall
3. Use the saw fence to position the cut, and clear of the blade and fence.
raise the blade to a height that corresponds to 7. Hold the workpiece against the fence
the length of the tenon. (90 degrees to the saw table and 3 degrees to
4. Push the sled across the blade to cut what the blade).
are essentially the cheeks of the tenons (see 8. With the sawblade just high enough to
photo F). connect with the previous cut, push the sled
5. To cut the tenon shoulders, use the same across the blade, making the shoulder cuts.
jig, but with the stop block removed and the 9. Cut out the center portion with a jigsaw,
box fence pivoted 3 degrees relative to the with the blade set at 3 degrees.
sawblade (see photo G).
Photo G: To cut the outside tenon shoulders, reposition Photo H: Clean up the jigsaw cut with a chisel.
the box fence 3 degrees to the blade.
10. Pare to the layout lines on each side
Tip: Remember that the outer wedge faces with a sharp chisel, making sure to maintain
have to be perpendicular to the shelf (which is the 3-degree angle across the shoulder (see
horizontal) to seat against the vertical outer photo H on p. 89).
walls of the mortise.
Cutting the mortises in the
tenons for the wedges
In a perfect world, the wedges would be simple
to fit in the tenons, needing only accurate
measurements and layout. In reality, there is
a lot of fitting to get the wedges just right.
Differences in the size of the mortise as little
as 1⁄ 32 in. can cause the height of the wedge to
vary as much as 1⁄ 4 in.
1. Check the fit of the mortises and tenons

and make any adjustments necessary.
2. Assemble the case with just the top and bot-
tom two shelves and clamp it tightly together.
3. Precisely mark the parts of the tenons that
protrude past the sides. From these marks, lay
out the mortises in the tenons that will accept
the wedges.
4. Lay out the mortises as wide as the wedges
and 3⁄ 4 in. deep. Though the wedges are only
9⁄ 16 in. thick where they sit tight in the mortises,
Photo I: A hollow-chisel mortiser with a 3⁄ 8-in.
bit is fast and accurate for cutting the mor- you don’t want them to bottom out in their
tises for the wedge. holes before they pull the shelf up tight.
WEDGED TENON DETAILS
FRONT VIEW SIDE VIEW
5
⁄ 8” Side splayed
3 degrees
33⁄ 8”
13⁄ 4” 1
1 ⁄ 2”
3
⁄ 4”
9
⁄ 16” 21⁄ 2”
Hole in tenon is
slightly deeper than
7
⁄ 16” wedge is thick.
2”
3
⁄ 4”
Back edge, straight Front edge, tapered 3 degrees
5. Working on the top of the shelves, measure
out 9⁄ 16 in. from the marks on the tenons, BANDSAW JIG FOR TAPERING THE WEDGES
draw a line, then measure back 3⁄ 4 in. and
draw another line.
6. Measure out from the center of these lines Jig, body has
3
3-degree taper
⁄ 8 in. in each direction and connect your
Bandsaw
marks. This gives you a 3⁄ 4-in. by 3⁄ 4-in. hole fence
for each wedge (see “Wedged Tenon Details”). Waste
7. Clamp a waste board under each tenon to
prevent tearout on the opposite face when you
cut the mortises.
8. Cut the mortises at 90 degrees using a
3⁄ 8-in. bit in a hollow-chisel mortiser. Nibble
away at the edges of the holes until you reach

the lines (see photo I). A mallet and chisel
will do the work as well, though more slowly.
9. When you’re finished cutting all the holes,
clean them up with a small file. Wedge blank
Making and seating

the wedges
Make the wedges only after the mortises are
cut. It’s far easier to adjust the wedge to fit the
mortise than the other way around.
1. Rip and plane some 3⁄ 4-in.-square strips of

zebrawood and cut them into 33⁄ 8-in. lengths
(make sure you cut a few extra).
2. Make a small, simple carrier jig to hold the
wedges when you cut the tapers on the band-
saw (see “Bandsaw Jig for Tapering the
Wedges”). This jig ensures that all the wedges
are exactly the same size so they fit into their
holes in the same way.
3. Cut the tapers with the jig on the bandsaw.
4. Sand the cut edges of the wedges with a
piece of sandpaper stuck to a flat block of
wood to fine-tune the fit (see photo J). If
everything prior to this has been done with
care, there will be only minor adjustments.
5. Label the wedges so you can return them
to their respective tenons later.
Fitting the middle shelves Photo J: Sand the tapered faces of the wedges until they all sit at
and cutting the biscuit slots the same height.
The four center shelves are attached to the
sides with loose (unglued) biscuits. These
aren’t the easiest biscuit joints to cut because
of the 3-degree angle of the sides.
BISCUIT SLOT CUTS FOR MIDDLE SHELVES
How Far
Should a Wedge
CUTTING SLOTS IN THE SHELF ENDS
Wedge?
The wedges on my bookcase drop farther
down into their tenons than do the ones
Fence set at 3 degrees
on David Fay’s case. I made my wedges
Shelf a little smaller so they’d go deeper, with
the idea that they’d seat better. And since
this piece can come apart, I thought this
was important. I’m not sure if it makes
Biscuit slot any difference, but it seemed to me that
Edge of shelf cut at 3 degrees it would. On the downside, I think the
higher wedges look a little bit better.
So there you go: Life is full of uncertainty
and compromise.
CUTTING SLOTS IN THE FACES OF THE SIDES
1. Assemble the case, install the wedges, and

make sure everything is tight.
2. Measure up from the bottom shelf, marking
the location of the top of each shelf on both
sides of the case.
Plywood fence 3. Measure horizontally across the bookcase
face with a straightedge and connect these
Fence set at 90 degrees Inside face
marks. This gives you the width of each shelf
(on the top face).
4. Starting with shelf blanks slightly over-
sized in width and length, crosscut one edge
of each on your table saw using the miter
Biscuit slot Bookcase side gauge set at 90 degrees and the blade tilted
to 3 degrees.
5. Creep up on the finished width bit by bit,
checking the fit on the case after each cut.
Each shelf should fit tight but not bulge the
sides or affect the fit of the other shelves.
6. Rip the front edges of the shelves at
3 degrees as well, sizing them 1⁄ 8 in. narrower
than the depth of the case at each shelf loca-
tion. When installed, the shelves will sit flush
with the back and be recessed 1⁄ 8 in. from the
front of the case.
7. Cut biscuit slots in the edges of the
shelves, two to an edge. Reference these slots
from the top of the shelves with the fence of
your biscuit joiner set at 3 degrees (see
“Biscuit Slot Cuts for Middle Shelves”).
8. Knock down the bookcase before you cut
the biscuit slots in the sides.
9. Draw layout lines across the sides at
90 degrees to the back, starting from the
marks that indicate where the tops of the
shelves intersect the sides.
10. Lay a piece of plywood along these lines
to act as a fence for the biscuit joiner.
11. Cut the biscuit slots in the sides, position-
ing the joiner against the fence and plunging
it in at 90 degrees to the side.
Finishing
and Final Assembly
Rounding the edges
1. When you complete all the parts, do a
final check for fit, fuss with anything that may
still be bugging you, and disassemble the
bookcase.
2. Work all the edges of the mortises and the
holes for the wedges with a file to make the
piece look soft and rounded. Round them
until they have about a 1⁄ 8-in. radius on their
edges.
3. Slightly round all the edges of the tenons,
wedges, shelves, and sides with sandpaper to Photo K: The entire bookcase knocks down into a small pile of flat,
the same 1⁄ 8-in. radius. small pieces—very handy for transportation.
4. Sand everything to 180 grit.
Applying the finish these ways much better than lacquer finishes
At David Fay’s suggestion I finished the piece and are easily repaired when they dry out or
with several coats of Formby’s low-gloss tung become worn.
oil. I felt an oil finish was important for a With this bookcase, final assembly is,
knockdown piece. Frequent assembly and frankly, optional. As a knockdown bookcase,
disassembly would easily damage a harder, it goes together and comes apart easily. And
lacquered finish, and the wedges would, in all after you test-fit everything and finish all the
likelihood, scratch the finish around them pieces, the first thing you may want to do is
when taken in and out. Oil finishes wear in knock it down to take it somewhere (see
photo K).
Bookends
Bookends
Lessons:
• Applies to Wolf Achievement 5e – Tools for
Fixing and Building
• Practice sawing, driving nails, finishing
• Something useful, could be used as a gift, or …
• Easy: appropriate for Wolf, Bear, or Weblos
Tools:
• Saw (Japanese style pullsaw recommended)
• Ruler
• A square (triangular “rafter square” is recommended)
• Hammer (an 8 oz claw hammer is recommended)
• Crayons, stencils (if desired)
Materials:
• 12 inch long piece of 1 x 6 inch pine (actual
dimensions are ¾ x 5½ inch)
• ¼ inch thick luan plywood or hardboard; enough for
two 3½ x 5½ inch pieces
• brad nails, 1 to 1½ inch long.
• glue (yellow carpenter’s glue is recommended).
• Shellac (such as Zinsser “Bull’s Eye”; a small
amount), brush, and denatured alcohol (for cleanup)
Bookends
Procedure:
1. Cut two side pieces, each 5½ inches long, from the
pine board. You should end up with two 5½ inch
squares.
• Measure with the ruler, then use the rafter
square to draw the line across the board.
2. Cut two 3½ x 5½ inch bases from the luan plywood
or hardboard (use the ruler & rafter square again!).
Bookends
Procedure:
3. Create a design using crayons, on one side of each
pine square.
• Orient the wood so that the grain runs side
to side (sawn edges on the sides)! This will
provide a better glue joint at the bottom of the
pine square, to attach the base.
• In the example shown, a boy’s initial was
stenciled on with crayon.
• If you want to use something other than crayon,
experiment first, to see whether it bleeds into the
wood, or if it is smeared when finish is applied.
3
Bookends
Procedure:
4. Apply glue to the bottom of one pine square
5. Use 4 brad nails to attach the base to the side.
5
Bookends
Procedure:
6. Use a brush to apply shellac to the pine sides.
• Shellac will seal the wood and crayon.
• Shellac is alcohol based, and may smear some
types of ink.
4
• Shellac dries quickly, so apply a thin coat, don’t
brush more than necessary, and apply a 2nd coat
shellac after 15 – 20 minutes. Allow to dry
overnight.

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Free Bookcase Plans 2010

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The following bookcase plans are a collection of plans found freely available on the Internet.

The plans include:

1. Basic Pine Bookcase

Our pine bookcase, for example, features simple construction

2. Under window two shelf bookcase

This simple under-window two shelf unit is a useful little number!

This interesting upside down bookcase would make a good talking

A handy plan for a simple narrow book and DVD case.

5. Custom Bookcase with Curves

This little custom made bookcase has some nice

6. Simple Rectangle Bookcase

This one is a really simple, straightforward plan for your basic

This wooden playhouse bookcase is an interesting and

Now this one won’t be easy, but how

9. Stylish Mahogany Bookcase

This stylish bookcase is constructed of solid mahogany

This interesting Trapezoid bookcase is attractive, a little different and it

How To Build A Bookcase

Cutting the Parts

Fig. 1 Mark the lengths of the bookcase

Fig. 3 Use a straight strip as a guide when

Fig. 4 After cutting shelf cleats oversize,

Fig. 5 Butt sides together with shelf-

Fig. 7 Secure one side to the shelves with

Fig. 8 Attach the 1 x 2 strips to the case

Fig. 9 Use a block plane to shape the

Fig. 10 Cut the 1/4-in.-thick back panel to

Fig. 11 Use a nail set to drive all nails

Fig. 12 Apply shellac to any knots before

© 2006 Chris Baylor, licensed to About.com, Inc.

© 2006 Chris Baylor, licensed to About.com, Inc.

© 2006 Chris Baylor, licensed to About.com, Inc.

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Body of bookcase was whitewashed and top/bottom recycled timber will be

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Building a bookcase for DVDs

I started with some boards of "pine shelving". This lumber is

I started by cutting the pieces for the bookcase's shelves to

After planing one edge, I ripped the shelves to the desired

After cutting all the shelves, I put them side

a marking gauge. I put for dowels in each

The next step was to drill the holes for the

Once I had the holes all drilled in the shelf

To mark the hole positions for the shelves, I

lines would be.

Next I draw lines across the board with a

After marking the positions, I used a center

The for center punching all the holes was

The next step was to glue all the shelves to

And clamp them. Being sure

After giving the glue a few hours to dry, it

sanded each dowel to have a bevel on the

After that, it was time to mate the parts of

The bottom-most shelf, I just nailed to the bottom. I wanted it to go

And finally, to make the base, I glued three

The purpose of the base is to raise the main

I then glued this base to the bottom of the

shelf, though I also nailed it diangoally from

Same hself, but built with Hidden dado joints

Building Basement shelving

Building a Corner shelf

Every home should have a place for books,