Please read entirely before using your HHO cell.

LEGAL DISCLAIMER
Although it has been proven that by adding HHO gas to an internal combustion engines fuel/air mix
increases in fuel economy and decreased emissions can be achieved. We make no claims to any
specific amount of fuel economy gains with the use of this device. We only claim that this device
when operated properly will produce Oxyhydrogen.
By using this product

I understand that in no event shall march-labs or ebay, or any persons affiliated with March-labs be liable for
consequential damages, nor shall liability on any claim for damages arising out of or be connected with the sale, delivery,
use or misuse of any products or information purchased from march-labs through ebay.

I, my successors and assigns, agree to hold march-labs and ebay, and all persons affiliated in any way with March-labs
harmless from and will indemnify seller from damages caused by the use or misuse of the products purchased, or
otherwise obtained. Use includes, but is not limited to use by myself or by any person(s) obtaining said products from me
in any way.
Testing your gas:
HHO is extremely powerful! I highly recommend that you perform a simple bench test by adding 1
teaspoon of baking soda to your cell and fill with hot water to simulate running this cell at max output.
Run your output hose into a container of water and then add in dish detergent… power up your cell to a
12 volt battery charger and let run a few minutes. After bubbles have formed for a few minutes ignite a
heaping tablespoon of gas bubbles away from the container with an extended torch or lighter to
familiarize you with its power. Some people think its ok to try and ignite the hose end of the generator or
seem to think that they need ridiculous volumes of this running into their engine. Too much will damage
your engine! It is a supplemental fuel only!

Your HHO cell

By using electrolysis your HHO cell will produce Oxyhydrogen, a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen
gases, typically in a 2:1 atomic ratio, the same proportion as water. This gaseous mixture is
widely used as a clean burning high energy renewable fuel. Oxyhydrogen will combust when
brought to its auto ignition temperature. For a concentrated mixture at atmospheric pressure, auto
ignition occurs at about 570 °C (1065 °F). The minimum energy required to ignite such a mixture
with a spark is about 0.02 millijoules.
When ignited, the gas mixture converts to water vapor and releases energy, which sustains the
reaction: 241.8 kJ of energy (LHV) for every mole of H2 burned. The amount of heat energy
released is independent of the mode of combustion, but the temperature of the flame varies. The
maximum temperature of about 5000 °F is achieved with a pure mixture, about 700 degrees
hotter than a hydrogen flame in air. When either of the gases is mixed in excess of this ratio, or
when mixed with air, the heat must spread throughout a greater quantity of matter and the
temperature will be considerably lower. Oxyhydrogen improves emissions and economy of
internal combustion engines when combined with air/fuel ratio and timing modification; these
effects will be achieved in exchange for performance. The Hydrogen content of Oxyhydrogen
affects the burn rate of fuels and lean combustion capabilities of internal combustion engines.
Most newer model cars have advanced computer controlled systems that will compensate or
adjust to the rich/lean conditions created by the addition of Oxyhydrogen to a certain degree. With
the addition of various types of sensor enhancers/controllers, greater improvements in fuel
economy can be achieved. The results will vary greatly between vehicle models and some fine
tuning with the use of MAP/MAS/O2 sensor enhancers may be needed on some vehicles.

RUNNING YOUR CELL

The fill line for your electrolyte should be about ½ inch under the splash guard plate in your cell.
As H and O bubbles form they will displace the water and cause the level to rise.
These cells are designed to operate on 12 volt DC current and can be run between 3-20 amps
and at elevated temperatures for short durations. The amount of gas produced is a direct
correlation of the amount of current.
The concentration of your electrolyte determines the cells operating amps.
For example a teaspoon of baking soda per gallon of distilled water will draw approximately 3-4
amps, as your cell operates resistance will cause the electrolyte to heat up. As this happens the
resistance will drop and current flow will generally double, ending up with 6-8 amps. It is difficult
to give exact figures when using a teaspoon as a measuring device some will have tightly packed
baking soda vs. loosely packed and some will have a heaping teaspoon vs. a level one. Water
temperature and quality are also variables.
It is best to run your cell at lower currents and have multiple cells to achieve a higher gas volume.
, driving your cell too hard will decrease the life expectancy by causing elevated temperatures
and electrode wear.
6-12 amps are an optimum operating range. The estimated life expectancy of the cell is based on
this range factored with the national average of 12000 miles per year divided by 55mph for a total of
218 hrs of total drive time.
Start with a weak mixture of electrolyte (1 teaspoon per gallon) and connect to a power source and
note the amps. Add water or baking soda to lower or raise your amps until you come up with a
formula that suits your situation.

For example: If you have a 30-45 minute commute to and from work you may want to run your cell
at higher amps, (10-20.) but for longer commutes you should operate it at a slightly lower rate to
avoid excessive heating. A cooling reservoir can be constructed to help alleviate this problem.
Plans are discussed later in the article.
The relatively low cost of these cells allows them to be considered a consumable product. If you
drive them hard for higher gas production the life expectancy will shorten but the fuel savings can
greatly outweigh the replacement costs of new cells.
You will want to add only water to your cell as you refill it. Your electrolyte will stay concentrated
in the solution and adding more electrolyte solution would double the concentration. It is
recommended that you completely drain and flush your cell every 10-20 hours of operation and
refill with fresh electrolyte. If you are driving your cell hard you may notice a slight brown color in
your electrolyte. This is actually nano-particles of electrode material that have broken down. It is a
normal process of cell operation and will actually slightly improve the cells efficiency.

Filling your cell is very simple. (Plans for a simple filling bottle are included below.) You can take a
short section of hose and a connector barb and attach these to the cap of a squeeze bottle of your
choice. A cheap empty water bottle works well. You can secure the barb in place with hot melt glue or
epoxy. You can then simply connect this to the existing outlet of your cell and squeeze the
water/electrolyte into your cell. You should top off your cell using only water as the water is used
the electrolyte will remain in the solution and become concentrated.

Choosing an electrolyte

There are a myriad of electrolytes to use in a hydrogen producing cell. Each will have its own unique
properties and reactions in the cell. You should choose an electrolyte that compatible with your
electrodes and cell material. These electrodes are not compatible with halide salts, or strong acids.
Acetone, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, and Xylene are frequently used in some high efficiency electrolytes but
are not compatible with this cell material. If you need higher volumes it is better to run multiple cells at
lower currents, rather than drive a single cell too hard.

Halogen salts, especially chlorides easily penetrate the passive film on your electrodes and will allow
corrosive attack to occur. The halogens are easy to recognize because they end in the letters "ine".
Listed in order of their activity they are:

• fluorine
• chlorine
• bromine
• iodine
• Astatine.
• Chlorine or Chlorides
 Chlorides are one of the most common elements in nature and if that isn't bad enough, they're
also soluble, active ions; the basis for good electrolytes, the best conditions for corrosion or
chemical attack. Table salt for example is sodium chloride and will ruin your electrodes.

Some common compatible electrolytes are:

Sodium Carbonate (soda ash)

Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda)

Sodium Hydroxide (lye)

Potassium Carbonate (soap)

Potassium Hydroxide (lye, food prep)

Sodium bicarbonate is one of the most commonly used electrolytes. It is inexpensive, easy to obtain,
and safe to handle. I recommend its use to most people. You can achieve slightly greater efficiencies
with other electrolytes but as far as cost, safety and ease of use pure baking soda is hard to beat. For
the users who don’t mind the extra labor and precautions. I have included a list of alternate
electrolytes.

Potassium carbonate is a very good electrolyte, it’s a little harder to find but performs slightly better
than sodium (bi) carbonate. Most Hydrogen (tritium and deuterium) based cold-fusion research and
experiments are done using this as an electrolyte.

When preparing your electrolyte it is recommended that you start with distilled water. Tap water is
contaminated with various elements and compounds. Some cities add fluoride and chlorine to the
water. Both of which are highest on the list of corrosive halides. Tap water will work but will definitely
shorten the life of your cell. The relatively low cost of the cell allows it to be considered a consumable
item. I choose to use tap water and don’t really mind the extra wear on my electrodes. The rate of
wear is still within acceptable limits and it is still economical to purchase new cells yearly rather than
spend the time and money to purchase distilled water.

INSTALLATION

Installing your cells is very simple. Find a suitable mounting/resting place for them where they will be
secure and not able to tip over, preferably as far from heat sources as possible. For example you do
not want to install directly above your exhaust manifold. Route your output hose in the same manner
and secure with wire ties or by snaking behind existing wire mounts. Drill a small hole and fit or glue a
barb into the air intake hose for your vehicle either before or after the Mas/Map sensor if your vehicle
is so equipped.

Connect your positive leads to the battery terminals and negative to a switch. You can choose to
either tie into an existing switch such as your headlight switch or an existing fog light switch or install
your own. Simple switches rated for 20 amps can be purchased for $2 from most auto parts stores
and there is usually a wiring diagram on the back side. A lighted switch or use of a relay is
recommended so you do not forget to switch the cell off when the engine is not running.

***** WARNING! *****

Some vehicles mas/map sensors use a red hot wire to measure air density or mass; although the
temperature of this wire is generally below the auto-ignition temperature of HHO gas it is recommend
that you input your HHO gas behind the sensor close to the intake manifold if you are unsure.

It is also recommended that you use a “bubbler” style flashback arrestor as a precaution if you have
the hotwire type sensor or if you have a carbureted vehicle. This can be as simple as running your
gas hose into the bottom of a plastic water bottle with a few inches of water in it. A barb is inserted
into the lid and the gas is then routed to the intake. I have seen several bubblers sold on ebay that
are made of glass jars or PVC pipe. If a flashback did occur these devices would catastrophically fail
and could cause injury or death as both containers would fragment and send sharp projectiles in
every direction.

(Click and drag corner of photos to enlarge)

Photo of a simple filling bottle is shown below. A barbed valve was used to close off the filling bottle
when not in use. The output hose simply attaches to the T connector on top of the cell and electrolyte
is then squirted in until full.

The fill line should be ½ inch below splash plate.

A photo of a simple bubbler is shown below, barbed valves can be found at most any Pet supply store
or Wal-Mart and secured in place using hot melt glue or silicone. Your bubbler should be made of a
material that will safely burst or relieve pressure incase of a flashback. We also sell bubblers in our
eBay store.
 HHO in HHO in

Bubbler \ Flashback a rrestor

March-labs Bubbler/flashback arrestor shown center, connecting 2 cells together

Optional cooling systems.

This simple cooling system / reservoir allows you to run your cell at slightly higher amps for longer periods
without causing excessive heating. An aftermarket coolant return bottle/kit was used. Purchased for $8 and
included mounting hardware, bottle and hose. I replaced the hose that was included with a slightly smaller
diameter hose for a tighter fit. Two holes were drilled into the cell and tapped with ¼ NPT pipe threads. 1/4
barbed fittings were installed. The drill bit, tap, and fittings were all found off the shelf at Home Depot or
Lowes. Circulation occurs naturally as the cooler electrolyte sinks and creates a flow. This system allows me to
run weekly between fills, and bi-weekly between flushes or changing of the electrolyte.

Only miniscule amounts of HHO escaped into the reservoir after several hours of run time. The reservoir and cell
tops must be mounted level with each other in the vehicle.

The same principle can be applied using a $20 oil cooler/radiator shown below.
 Basic Installation
1. Find a location for the cell that does not
touch a ny exhaust compone nts. On many cars
the re is space next to the b attery, on or near the strut to wers
or near the relay and fuse b ox
2. Install ¼tting into the air intake system
be fore or after the MAS or MAP
3. Conne ct HHO inlet hose to the ¼tting
4. Run the ground (black) th rough the
¼rewall and conne ct to one p rong on a basic swi tch.
Find a suitable ground and conne ct it to the
other p rong on the swi tch
5. Conne ct the positi ve (red) to the posi tve
post on your b attery
Instructions showing installation of wiring using a relay.

Optional Installation

Battery

Cell

ACC

Relay
Fuse Box