Professional Documents
Culture Documents
knock on the door, promptly at my described as being mainly instru- thrown out of bed at 7 a.m. on D-day
requested time of 10.30 a.m. Parked mental and strange music. The words by a deafening explosion. I bol-
outside was a bulletproof Toyota ‘strange music’ pricked my ears. ted to the roof and watched a grey
surrounded by four men with machine cloud passing through on the wind,
guns, as well as the driver seated The pile turned out to be a cor- seemingly taking my luck along with
on yet another weapon. These cha- nucopia of different sounds: radio it, or so I thought. But in Somalia
After overcoming uncountable hurdles, insurmountable task. Hosting a
perones would escort me across the jingles, background music, interlu- everything runs differently, so I
I had finally made it all the way to foreigner is a risk and meant some
city to Radio Mogadishu every mor- des for radio programmes, television shouldn’t have been surprised when
Somalia’s capital city of Mogadishu serious security measures would have
ning, except Fridays, which is the shows and theatre plays. The two I was called and asked the normal
– a dream of mine. But now, ten days to be organised and nobody was crazy
day off here. Mr Abdullahi – still Iftin Band songs included here all question of whether I was ready to
into what was supposed to be a three- enough to do that – except for one.
confused as what to make of a random came out of that pile. There were be picked up.
week trip, I had very little to show
individual looking for Somali music also a good number of disco tunes
for it. November 2016 - I finally arrived in
in Mogadishu – had been delegated to that had been stripped of their Cautiously, I entered the car and
the old port city and immediately
assist me for the whole duration of lyrics. The interesting music parts monitored the demeanours of my com-
Four years earlier I had watched attempted to get in touch with Radio
my stay. He turned out to be a huge had been recorded multiple times then panions. They showed no immediate
with rapt attention a video about the Mogadishu. Fortunately my host Fatuma
music fan and a very fine connoisseur cut, taped together and spliced into effect, other than taking a slightly
archives of Radio Mogadishu. In that Abdullahi, who was running her newly
of Somali plays, and never missed an a long groovy instrumental loop. With different route to the station. I
clip an elderly gentleman could be opened bed and breakfast, was well
opportunity to describe the import- this haul of good music it became was told that someone had rammed a
seen sorting out reels of tape, and connected, and a few days later
ance of theatre and cinema in Somali crystal clear that I had to delay my vehicle filled with explosives into
my mind ran wild. I was able to get I had an appointment with the direc-
music. return flight by at least two weeks. the main entrance of the port, kil-
the phone number of the radio station tor of the state broadcaster. Driving
Thank you, Turkish Airlines (not a ling and injuring a lot of people.
but, despite the blend of Arabic and towards the station with my ‘body-
Once in the archives, we spent about sponsor). Abdullahi Barre, the youngest staff
English between me and whoever was on guard’, I was surprised to see wall
the other end of the line, we could paintings and wonderful hand-drawn a week listening to some of Somalia’s member in the archives at the sta-
biggest names: Luul Jeylani, Maryam Five weeks into my trip, Mr Abdullahi tion, had returned from taking the
barely understand each other. These shop signs everywhere. Like no other
The National Theatre (Mogadishu) Mursal, Ahmed Naji and others – music kindly asked me to start the digiti- body of his friend to the cemetery
calls were followed by countless city in Africa, street art is omni-
reserved for future projects. Now sation process soon, and December the and apologised for his tardiness.
emails. present in Mogadishu.
it was time to look for something 11th was the day we choose. During my I spoke my condolences in Arabic,
We ended up at Posh Treats, a kind of The next few days gradually conden- that ‘swam against the current’. The whole stay I was told several times but except for that I had no words.
Since Radio Mogadishu seemed I walked in the door, I recognised the
country club, the first to be opened sed into a tightly regimented routine stars must have been aligned because that I had been very lucky: except
unreachable through the various face of the gentlemen from the docu-
while I awaited further word from rummaging around I found a big stack for a light explosion at the market, Written by Samy Ben Redjeb.
telecommunication means available mentary – Colonel Abshir Hashi Ali. in the city after more than two deca-
des of civil war. Radio Mogadishu. I was effectively of tapes, all unlabelled, lying on Mogadishu had been quiet. But that
to humankind, I decided to travel to We had a brief chat, I offered him
trapped in the guesthouse. It wasn’t top of each other in a rather preca- was about to change. In Mogadishu it
Somalia myself. I began writing to some delicious pastries I had brought
Once inside the heavily fortified a complete waste of time as I had rious state. Hamud clarified that the is custom for the police to cont-
various hotels around the capital from Tunisia, and he began showing me
walls, Nasser suddenly produced some been lucky enough to find a cassette pile consisted mostly of music nobody rol traffic with gun shots – after 40
and the reply I would get would around. The room where the reels were
fancy baklava, unwrapped it and sha- warehouse and was spending my days had managed to identify, or music he nights my ears had become accustomed
typically be this generic response: stored was about 100 square metres
red it with everyone around. Someone going through boxes of tapes. I spent to the sound of random volleys.
and crammed with tapes from floor to
ceiling – circa 20,000, divided into connected a cellphone to some spea- entire days listening, selecting and
various categories: political spee- kers and started blasting out Dhaanto digitising while sipping on coffee
ches, religious radio programmes, music; watermelon and grapefruit mixed with camel milk. I discovered
Dear Samy, patriotic music and love songs. juice was brought out and shisha – the song Hoobeya during those days,
Thank you for choosing Peace Hotel.
The rates are as follows: also known as nargile – appeared from as well as the master cassettes with
“What music are you interested nowhere. The mood was light and fes- the tunes Check Up Your Head and
– Airport pick-up in?” he asked. Since I only knew tive and I could hardly believe I was Ladaney. Finding pictures of bands in
@ USD 150 per trip three bands I asked if they had any in Mogadishu. A few hours later, high Mogadishu is such a rarity that when
– Accommodation
music similar to Dur-Dur, Iftin from too much smoking, Nasser pulled I came across the cassette of Iftin
@ USD 150 per night per person
– Airport drop-off and Shareero. At that very moment me aside to tell me that it wasn’t Band, Volume 4 – which included the
@ USD 150 per trip Anxious to start, I arrived early. Colonel Abshir began to delve into a safe for me to drive around like cover used for this compilation –
– Transportation and security escort Amisom soldiers – short for African huge notebook, then shouted a num- I was doing. ‘One escort is not I jumped.
@ USD 1,200 per day ber to his right-hand man, Hamud enough. From now on, every time you
Union Mission in Somalia – surrounded
Armed vehicle including escort the building and I had to go through Ibrahem Hamud, who climbed a ladder need to get out, call me. I’ll send This regime lasted for about a week.
pick- p with well trained and armed a few security checks. I was greeted to grab a tape which he then handed you my people,’ was the final verdict. There was still no communication from
security personnel. by Mr Nasser Hussein and Mr Abdullahi to Abdullahi Barre, who was responsi- Radio Mogadishu. I began to get wor-
Amin, respectively the directors of ble for the digitising. This routine ried – until someone pointed out to
Currently, we only accept cash as the
Radio Mogadishu and the television involving the ledger and stepladder me: ‘Here in Somalia, when you inter-
payment method. We are looking for-
ward to host you in Peace Hotels and station, both housed on the premises. would become a recurring scenario. act with people, if you want them to
we hope that your trip to Mogadishu We went through short introductions do something they require “refresh-
will be an enjoyable experience. and I was very surprised to hear Mr I was told they would look around ments”. Have you provided that?’ As a
Nasser say that I must have lots of and get in touch if they found some- Tunisian this was nothing new to me,
Yusuf – Manager at Peace Hotel
connections since many at the station thing – thus ended my first visit to and licensing the music from Radio
knew about my arrival and about the Radio Mogadishu. Nasser and Abdullahi Mogadishu was the idea all along. But
project. Perhaps my email bombardment escorted me out of the facility since they hadn’t actually supplied
had not been in vain. and asked, ‘Where are your secu- me with anything to listen to yet,
I replied numerous times asking if rity guys?’ I pointed to my escort, I thought we hadn’t reached that
I could book the room without the I was shown around and eventually who was relaxing against a wall, point. I was running out of time and
security escort option, but I never found myself inside the archives, the a Kalashnikov nonchalantly hanging decided to make a move by proposing
got a response. To find private accom- very reason why I had come all the from his shoulder. I was about to a fee for each song I would select –
modation proved to be an almost way to this place. As soon as bid farewell when I spontaneously got and suddenly we had a deal.
invited to join them for a coffee.
These private bands not only performed the hits Radio Mogadishu, the national radio station,
of the day in luxury hotels but were also often served as a unifying line across an otherwise
commissioned by independent producers to provide disconnected nation. With music airtime up to
the soundtracks for theatre plays at Mogadishu’s 15 or 16 hours a day, listeners could casually
national theatre; plays performed in turn by hear five hours of music, and catch some 50 to
actors and dancers from Waaberi. 100 songs a day. Programming varied: educational
clips emphasising work – in agriculture or
fisheries – sat alongside bulletins concerning
personal hygiene, moral obligations and numerous
love songs.
Text Editing:
Jay Freistadt and Ian Preece